Long-distance buses
If you're not driving, buses are the most convenient way of getting around Albania. Most intercity travel in Albania takes place with privately run buses, and with private minibuses called furgons. After a few wild years, market forces have provided travellers with more quality and regular services.
In Shkodra there are regular buses to Tirana run by Rozafa Ortaket, departing hourly between 07:00 and 16:00 from outside the Radio Shkodra building on Sheshi 5 Heronjte square, near the Rozafa hotel, and dropping passengers off at Tirana's train station. The departure times from Tirana to Shkodra are at 11:30, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00, and 16:00. The trip takes 2 hours 15 minutes, perhaps 15 minutes longer if the traffic is bad, and costs 250 lek. These buses are clean with comfortable seats and often air conditioning too. They also run one daily bus to Durres, departing Shkodra at 07:15, and making the return trip at 13:15; tickets are 300 lek and the trip takes about 3 hours.
Furgons are a different story – those to Tirana depart from the stadium on Rr. Bujar Bishanaku. There are no set departure times – drivers wait for the minibus to fill up and leave. The ride to Tirana also costs 200 lek, drops you off at the station, and is perhaps 10 to 20 minutes quicker than the bus, but be warned that drivers often drive excessively fast and perform daring manoeuvres. Furgons to the towns northeast and east of Shkodra depart from the crossing of Rruga Marin Barleti and Rruga Skenderbeg - they are much less frequent, and it's a good idea to arrive around 06:00 or 07:00 to catch the one you need.
Buses to Ulcinj and Podgorica in Montenegro are run by two companies. The Samsel travel agency has comfy buses driving from outside the Rozafa hotel to central Ulcinj at 09:00 and 15:00 daily, with return trips at 06:00 and 13:00, taking about 1,5 hours. Tickets are 500 lek and can be booked in advance. The morning service allows a connection with the bus to Kotor. A minibus run by Albatour departs Tirana at 06:00, stopping off in Shkodra at 09:00 before driving to Ulcinj, arriving around 10:30. Albatour runs a large bus in the afternoon, departing Tirana at 14:00, and Shkodra at 16:00. Tickets are €5 from Shkodra, €8 from Tirana.
On demand, Samsel runs a bus to Podgorica for €9/1100 lek per person in a group or €33/4000 lek for individuals, and €40/4920 lek to/from Podgorica airport.
Click here for a map of the Shkodra bus stop locations for Tirana/Durrës and Ulcinj (Montenegro).