If you have your own transport or don't mind taxis, try the Marku, set on the other side of the Buna river in a shady bit of forest overlooking the lake and Shkodra. It's best known with the locals for its views and garden restaurant, with tables spread out beneath the trees, and a huge concrete scale model of Rozafa Castle. The rooms are comfy and quiet (the terrace closes at 23:00). French and English spoken. Cross the bridge, turn right and left after 200m following signs for Marku up the signposted road.

4 rooms (singles 2500 lek, doubles 3500 lek). Breakfast not included.