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Tirana
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Train station
Hi... I'd like to do the journey described above too, and I was wondering if there are any buses from or to Pogradec that cross over the border into Macedonia? Thanks!
EDITOR: It's all on the IYP website, in this case on the Pogradec transport pages.
My friend Alun and I planned a train journey from Tirana to Pogragec, we were then going on to Korçë for a few days, and then to our destination Ersekë. Our first observation was that every Albanian who we told simply laughed at us. Even the taxi driver who took us to the station for our 05.55 departure tried to convince us that the train would never leave! Upon arrival at the station, our host Gimi (similarly sceptical of Albanian train travel) searched out the ticket office and purchased our tickets. We then found our way down to the platform, and onto the train. It was battered and broken; after a few moments it edged out of the station into an amazing adventure. First to Durrës, where the route seemed to double back on itself, and then on to industrial Elbasan, and then we climbed high into the mountains. Through tunnels, over bridges, past forgotten station stops, catching breathtaking mountain and river vistas, and then down to the wonderful shore line of Lake Ohrid to Pogradec, arriving at 12.25 precisely. And if that wasn’t enough, on the train we enjoyed a wonderful array of Albanian company. Little groups of working men puffing away on cigarettes heading for their duties. Women of all shapes and sizes who seemed to occupy the train with easy familiarity, there was one pair who tore through a huge loaf of bread, enjoying every morsel. And then there were the children, running about and flashing cheeky smiles. Please do not heed the critical comments of Albanian tourist advisors – the train is a sheer delight. Make a big effort to enjoy it, before it receives a European makeover, and loses its adventure. Do contact me for more information, or to share your own experience.
EDITOR - Excellent report David, thanks!