Kruja

Kruja, 47 km north of Tirana, is touted as a good daytrip from the capital, not only for sightseeing but also for souvenir-hunting. However, if you've already been to Berat and Gjirokaster, you may be disappointed with the humble nature of this town.
The most important sight in Kruja is the semi-ruined citadel area, a fortress dating back to the fifth or sixth century and perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop. Only by the end of the 12th century was the citadel completed. It weathered many sieges, the most famous being the Ottoman campaigns repulsed by the Albanian warrior Skanderbeg and his men. Kruja thus became a symbol of national resistance - not until 1478 (after Skanderbeg’s death) did the Ottomans succeed in capturing the citadel. One of the few original structures remaining is the clock tower, which was an observation and signalling post.
To the left of the citadel‘s main entrance is the Gjergj Kastriot Skënderbeu Museum (tel.+355 5 11 22 25,
open May-Sept 08:00-13:00, 16:00-19:00, closed Mon; Oct-Apr 09:00-13:00, 16:00-18:00, closed Mon, admission 200 lek), built to honour the man otherwise known as Skanderbeg, and a shrine for Albanians though less interesting for foreigners. The museum was built with a fake medieval façade in 1982 and houses copies of Skanderbeg’s sword and spiky helmet (the originals are in Vienna), paintings and exhibits (mostly replicas) presenting Skanderbeg’s struggle against the Ottomans.
Nearby is the excellent small Ethnographic Museum (same times and contact details, admission 200 lek) which displays the beautiful interior of a traditional Albanian house around 1800. Exhibits include 19th-century folk dress, as well as traditional copper goods and clay utensils. The friendly caretaker will take you on a whirlwind English-language tour of the rooms.
Though usually skipped by most visitors, the small streets immediately below the Ethnographic Museum are Kruja's best; narrow and winding past high courtyard walls like they did 500 years ago. Wander around and you'll come across the old citadel hamam (bathhouse, now converted to a church) and the lovely Dollma teqe, a Bektashi temple building with impressive decorations.
Just outside the citadel is the old bazaar; one street of quaint shops with windows full of antiques, silver filigree jewellery, folk costumes, woven rugs and traditional felt hats. Bargain hard, they're used to quoting high prices. When you're done shopping and sightseeing, head for the restaurants at the top end of the citadel, which offer great views of the surroundings and serve Albanian food. Turkish coffee comes in a traditional copper pot and is best enjoyed curled up on the rows of pillows that surround the Turkish tables of some restaurants.
Getting to Kruja: A taxi will cost 2,000-3,000 lek (negotiate this beforehand). Buses cost 100-150 lek. As Kruja is just 30 minutes from the airport, it can easily be visited in the morning for some last minute shopping before you catch your flight. If you're driving, follow the Shkodra road from Tirana, turn right into Fushe Kruje (famous for the George Bush disappearing watch act); stay on the main road, twisting up through the forest and Kruja town, until you see signs marked Kalaje (fortress).

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Address:

Kalaja e Krujës, Krujë

Phone:

+355 5 211 22 25

www:

http://www.muzeukombetarskenderbeukruje.com

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Below are Albania In Your Pocket videos of Kruja and of a tour of the Ethnographic Museum: