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Tirana city walk

Tirana’s most significant buildings are concentrated along one thoroughfare: Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit, the "Boulevard of the Martyrs". The walk described below, from Skanderbeg Square to the Polytechnic University, will take you past Tirana's highlights in a flash.

Starting underneath the mosaic of the National Museum on Skanderbeg Square, pass Et'hem Bey Mosque towards the elegant government buildings at the end of the square, housing ministries and the town hall. These were built in the 1930s, during the rule of King Zog.

The grand boulevard leading south from here was the brainchild of the Italian Fascists, who held parades here during World War II. It later became the venue for the locals’ xhiro (evening stroll). In fact, it used to be closed off to traffic in evenings – what bliss that would be now. Cross the next street (Rruga Myslym Shyri) and on your left is the Art Gallery, then, hidden behind pine trees, the former Hotel Dajti. On your right is Rinia Park, which was concealed beneath illegally built bars and pizzerias in the 1990s. The municipality reclaimed the area, and with popular support bulldozed the buildings in order to restore the park.

Walk across the next wide streets (Bulevardi Zhan D’Ark; Bulevardi Bajram Curri) and perhaps without noticing you've crossed the Lana River, whose green banks were also crammed with illegal buildings until order was restored. Here you arrive at the 'pyramid'. On your right, next to the Twin Tower business centre is a small park with the busts of the three Frashëri brothers.

Just past the next crossing on your left is the Prime Minister’s Residence, which was once the Communist Party headquarters. During official demonstrations and parades, Party leaders stood on the balcony here and waved to the masses below. In January 2011, this was the scene of rioting and three deaths when nervous guards opened fire on demonstrators. On the right is the former Party Committee building.

Beyond Rruga Ismail Qemali you’ll pass the Rogner Europapark Hotel, and a little further the modernist Palace of Congresses. Originally built for Party congresses, it now hosts concerts, festivals and fairs. On your right, fenced off and concealed behind trees, is the President’s Palace. This building served as the Soviet embassy until 1961, when all diplomatic relations were broken off, and for a while thereafter it housed parliament.

The disproportionately large, empty square at the end of the boulevard is Sheshi Nënë Tereza (Mother Teresa Square), named for the nun who was arguably the most famous Albanian of the 20th century; her statue can be found up the steps. To the left is the Archaeological Museum; on the right, the Art Academy. At the southern end of the boulevard stands the Polytechnic University, originally erected by the Italian Fascists. Its imposing stone façade certainly seems better fitted for reviewing goose-stepping soldiers from than for studying in. Going further down the paths on either side of the university whisks you out of urban Tirana and into the Grand Park.