Excellent traditional Albanian food served in a large restaurant with nice photos of old Tirana (with English captions no less). Try the tavë oven dish served with Korça meatballs or the speciality, petulla te fshjra, or village pie. If you're bringing hungry friends, consider ordering a lakror, a large flat hearty pie stuffed with onion, leek, creamy cheese, or vegetables. Pilsner Urquell is on tap. [...]

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Meaning 'wind', this popular and foreigner-friendly spot makes for a good casual lunch or dinner. The Albanian food is excellent; try the stuffed eggplant and peppers, and fërgesë (fried minced lamb, feta cheese and garlic). Era also delivers home. Near the corner with Rr. Sami Frashëri. [...]

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Eat Ottoman-style in Tirana's only true traditional family-run restaurant, sitting on (indeed) ottomans at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old house. Surrounded by shelves with dishes, strings of garlic and peppers and old photos, it's best to allow the waiters to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. The food is fresh and delicious, unforgettable even after washing it all down with their home-made raki. Find Oda down the first alley west of the market. [...]

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With a nicely low-key decor of traditional art and costume, Serenata is the home of dishes from the southern Devolli region, centred on the town of Korça, which is of course famous for its serenades and spicy, saucy and full fat food. Try lakror, a flat pancake stuffed with green beans, tomatoes, herbs and spices or tave me qofte, spiced meatballs baked in a clay bowl. Next to Hotel California. [...]

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Here's a simple, central, home cooking restaurant that pleases all with good cooking and friendly service. For something local, order the tave dheu (270 lek), an oven dish with meat and cheese, or try the Elbasan version, tava kosi (280 lek) that's with yoghurt. It's all good. [...]

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