A dark, underground labyrinth of booths in the heart of the city centre, find all manner of locals sat at chequered tablecloths tucking into a range of dishes not just from Bulgaria but also from further afield. Recommended are the Bulgarian salad and the golden chicken. The food is unpretentious, filling and good value. Perhaps too gloomy to be enjoyed during the daytime, this would be a better place to frequent after the sun has set.