It’s supposed to look like Grandmother’s place in the country, which might explain the live rooster running around the yard or, at a stretch, the aquarium full of carp. But it doesn’t really account for the screaming Gypsy band on stage. If you want to sample the pelmeni, shashlyk and Belarusian national food served here, we suggest avoiding arriving between 20:00 and 23:00 when the live music is inflicting brain damage on the customers.