Inside the large, wonderfully cool and calming interior of the Church of the Most Holy Mother of God, which dates from 1868, are large iconostases holding icons made in Russia, installed here by Russian masons sent by Tsar Alexander II. As a proof of religious tolerance, Sultan Abdul Aziz, and the Prince of Serbia donated 500 gold ducats towards the construction of the building.

Serb forces shot up their own church during the war and the Greek government is now involved in helping restore the damage. Once you feel that you’ve soaked up enough of the spiritual you can wander outside this imposing multi-domed, pale mustard-colored building and watch the men playing chess on the giant board just outside on the square.