Get used to pronouncing the name Baščaršija (Bosh-CHAR-shee-ya) as this mouthful of letters is not only the heart and soul of Sarajevo and a striking reminder of its Ottoman past, but also home to - or at least the point of reference for - a majority of the city's hotels, restaurants, sights and nightspots. While the area was the centre of trade and commerce during the Ottoman's lengthy rule (the name itself means central market in English), nowadays its rebuilt lanes are packed with a mix of locals, independent travellers and tour groups virtually around the clock: eating, shopping, drinking or just soaking up the atmosphere during an evening stroll.