In what is perhaps a sign of things to come in a country with such a young population, Gurman - promoted in tourist brochures as the city's pre-eminent traditional Bosnian restaurant as recently as the autumn of 2008 - was long gone by the summer of 2009, its riverside location taken over by this tropical-themed club. Such a turn of events might have disappointed us had we not coincidently been in town to witness the party that was thrown on Papaya's grand opening.