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Praga

Warsaw’s eastern suburb, Praga, has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors. Often painted as the bastion of tower blocks and the criminal underclass, the area is actually enjoying a snail-like renaissance, and as such offers visitors a combination of strange sights and sounds. While it is an enjoyable and recommended daytrip, do remember that this is not Old Town; huge zoom lenses and video cameras will attract unwanted attention, quite possibly worse.

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Warsaw | Sightseeing | Praga

Agnieszka Osiecka Monument
Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Fry [...]


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ul. Francuska
Bears
Bears have been living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949. Over 400 have been reared there before being packed off to zoos, safari parks and circuses. Although the bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Three years ago a drunk idiot was savaged after jumping into the en [...]


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Praski Park (from al. Solidarności)
tel. 022 619 40 41

Open:
09:00-15:30
Saturday:
09:00-16:00
Sunday:
09:00-16:00 Last ticket sold 60 minutes before closing.
Buildings
Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet-scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul. Targ [...]


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Info Praga
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ul. Ząbkowska 36
tel. 022 670 01 56

Open:
10:00-15:00
Thursday:
14:00-18:00
Saturday:
Closed
Sunday:
Closed
Kapela Podwórkowa Monument
The tradition of cloth-capped buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the best loved of the lot have finally been commemorated in brass on the other side of the river. The pre-war Kapela Podwórkowa are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the five piece band have been [...]


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corner of ul. Floriańska and ul. Kłopotowskiego (Praga)
Kościuszkowców Monument
A formidable monument erected in 1985 to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted to cross the Wisła river several times without success, in a bid to support the 1944 Uprising. [...]


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ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie, Near Port Praski
Luksfera Gallery

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ul. Ząbkowska 27/31
tel. 022 619 91 63
From March Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. On February Open on request.
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene
Constructed between 1867 and 1869 to a design by Mikołaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalene’s was originally built for the large congregation of Russian souls living around Jagiellońska as well as people arriving from the East at the nearby Wileńska train station. Now belonging to the independent Polish Autokephalic Orthodox Church, this stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in the 1920s, this rather unorthodox Orthodox church comes with its own charming, football-mad priest. [...]


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Al. Solidarności 52
tel. 022 619 84 67

Open:
11:00-15:00
Monday:
Closed
Saturday:
Closed
Sunday:
Closed
Różycki Bazaar
Once regarded as Warsaw’s premier bazaar, the compact Bazar Różyckiego has seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments, nowadays the historic 102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working class Warsaw life. [...]


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ul. Targowa 54
tel. 022 619 44 06

Open:
06:00-17:00
Saturday:
06:00-15:00
Sunday:
Closed
Soviet War Memorial
Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died during the ‘liberation’ of Warsaw. Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII, the rusting edifice is the city's least loved memorial and is often daubed with graffiti. The Praga location is quite apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in 1944, while Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and then demolished the city.
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intersection of Targowa and al. Solidarności
Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral
In reaction to the building of an Orthodox Church and a number of other structures on the Tsar’s orders in the latter half of the 19th century, a certain Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the construction of a huge new Catholic church. Consecrated in 1901, [...]


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ul. Floriańska 3
tel. 022 619 09 60

Open:
06:00-12:30
Warsaw Zoo
Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. Three elephants, a family of seals and a lion cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit her [...]


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ul. Ratuszowa 1/3
tel. 022 619 40 41

Open:
09:00-18:00 Last ticket sold 60 minutes before closing.
Ząbkowska
Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated than ulica Ząbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all the Boho types who have materialized out of nothing. Originally lined with timber frame houses a fierce blaze in 1868 led to wooden lodgings replaced with tall tenements, all b [...]


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