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Derry

Derry

Northern Ireland's second, and Ireland's fourth, largest city is small enough to explore on foot yet bursting with history and culture. To get the most from your stay, here is our Beginner's Guide to the city so good they named it twice...

NAME THAT TOWN
Derry, Londonderry, Stroke City, the Maiden City: what's in a name? Most locals use Derry, but many Protestant Unionists prefer Londonderry. The original name of Derry came from Doire, the Irish for 'oak grove surrounded by bog'.

'London' was added in the 17th Century when King James I's Plantation of Ulster reapportioned land from Irish Catholics to newly-settled English Protestants. London's powerful trades guilds invested in the settlement, hence the new name.

Maiden City refers to the impregnable walls which held out during the 1688-89 Siege of Derry. And Stroke City is local radio presenter Gerry Anderson's neutral solution to the political impasse.

WALK THE WALLS
Derry is the Dubrovnik of the North and Ireland's most complete walled city. Over 1.5kms of walls encircle the centre, providing a unique walkway and affording panoramic views of the surrounding area. These impressive 17th Century stone fortifications can be accessed by clearly signposted steps, with information plaques guiding you through the city's historic heart and often turbulent past.

TAKE A TOUR
Bus, boat, taxi and walking tours leave no historical stone unturned and no curious question unanswered. Tours take you through the centre and into the Nationalist Bogside and - across the River Foyle - more mixed Waterside.

ADMIRE THE ARMADA
The city centre Tower Museum (tel. 7137 2411) features a permanent exhibition tracing the story of Spanish Armada ship, La Trinidad Valencera. This large, heavily armed vessel sank off the Donegal coast in 1588 and lay undiscovered until 1971. The exhibition contains artefacts from the wreck and state-of-the-art interactive displays.

GET CULTURED
The Millennium Forum (tel. 7126 4455), Playhouse (tel. 7126 1884), Nerve Centre (tel. 7126 0562) and Verbal Arts Centre (tel. 7126 6946) are the city's main arts, culture and entertainment venues. Big name performers, touring productions and community-lead projects dominate their events calendars.

GO SHOPPING
Discover a selection of niche shops and boutiques among the city centre's side streets. Mall rats can scurry around the shiny happy Foyleside Centre (Debenhams, Dunnes, M&S) and Richmond Centre (Miss Selfridge, HMV).

Retail junkies will be astounded to learn that Derry is home to the world's oldest independent department store. Dominating a corner of central hub The Diamond, the magnificent Austins predates Jenners, Harrods and Macys and last year celebrated its 176th anniversary. Head to the Rooftop Restaurant of this five storey Edwardian building for a bird's eye view across The Diamond.

CELEBRITY WORSHIP
For a city so small, Derry has spawned an impressive array of musical luminaries. From Eurovision to Top of the Pops, Pop Stars to Labour's 1997 election campaign, The Undertones, Phil Coulter, Dana, Josef Locke, D:Ream and Girls Aloud's Nadine Coyle have each contributed to Stroke City's musical legacy.

GORGE YOURSELF
The food scene has come a long way in a relatively short space of time. Pubs offer great value grub and Café Calm (07889 963858) is a good spot for a strong coffee before hopping on a bus tour. The Exchange (tel. 7127 3990), Quaywest (tel. 7137 0977), Mange 2 (7136 1222), Browns (tel. 7134 5180) and Dananos (tel. 7126 5465) are four of the coolest restaurants in town.

SINK A PINT
Traditional pubs, contemporary bars and full-on nightclubs dominate the city centre's social scene. Peadar O'Donnell's (tel. 7137 2318) is a fantastic drinking hole crammed with curios and ephemera, as befits an authentic Irish pub. The adjoining Gweedore Bar provides a spiritual haven for hardcore, indie types still mourning the untimely demise of Cobain and Hendrix. Great stuff.

The Metro (tel. 7126 7401) is a more contemporary bar/nightclub attracting sparkly 21+ers and their rugby shirted boyfs. Clubbers can cut some serious shapes at Sugar (tel. 7126 6017) or Earth (tel. 7136 0556). Pepe's (tel 7137 4002) is Derry's only gay bar.

GO TO SLEEP:
:in one of several city centre hotels, hostels and B&Bs. The 4-star City Hotel (tel. 7136 5800) and Tower Hotel (tel. 7137 1000) are closest to the action and ideal if you've a bit of money to spend. The Everglades (tel. 7134 9200) is also 4-star, though a short taxi ride from town. As is the 3-star Ramada Da Vinci's (tel. 7127 9111) which has bedrooms and self-catering apartments.

The Travelodge (tel. 7127 1271) offers cheap, no frills rooms slap bang in the city centre. Derry City Independent Hostel (tel. 7128 0542), and Paddy's Palace (tel. 7130 9051) provide no nonsense, good fun, cheap accommodation.

For travellers tired of dorms but craving the hostel vibe, Dolce Vita (tel. 7128 0542) is a great self catering/hostel hybrid with plenty of space, charm and home comforts.

Finally, for character, charm and a bit of local history, check out Joan and Peter Pyne's five B&B and self-catering properties (tel. 7126 9691) including the beautifully bespoke Saddler's House.

For more information on all events, tours and accommodation call into the Derry Visitor & Convention Bureau, 44 Foyle Street, tel. 7126 7284, www.derryvisitor.com.

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