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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife sightseeing events Maps osijek 2008 From the earth to the Tvrđa Pannonian Challenge attracts skateboarders and cyclists from across Europe N°2 - free copy www.inyourpocket.com Contents 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving From A to B without breaking the bank 5 7 8 11 12 14 17 History Rewritten. Again. Culture & Events Everything that’s on in Osijek Ruined Castles Story by Tocher Mitchell Where to stay Comfort or cockroaches Restaurants Keeping the tapeworm happy Cafés The cat got the cream Nightlife Going down to la-la land 18 19 What to see Eyes front! Mail & Phones It’s good to talk 23 24 26 27 28 29 34 35 36 38 Getting around All dressed up and somewhere to go? Transport map Sport Directory Osijek Baranja County Maps & Index Street index Country map City centre map City map 2008 4 Foreword Osijek would like to create something young from something old. The Tvrđa, the Austro-Hungarian fortress that once guarded the crossing of the Drava river, lost its military significance in the 19th Century but is acquiring a new life as a social anchor for the city. An archaeological museum is opening in one of its renovated buildings, and bars and restaurants have been moving into others. Osijek University is expanding in the Tvrđa and the nearby barracks of the former Yugoslav National Army. Each August, Osijek hosts the Pannonian Challenge, four days of skateboarding, in-line skating, BMX and mountain biking, and of course, concerts and parties. The event attracts 2,000 visitors per day from across Europe. Throughout the summer, the city promotes several other music festivals to attract young people. The forests and fields around Osijek, full of deer, wild boar and small game, are a haven for hunting, animal-watching, camping, biking, hiking and off-road adventures. Fishermen have caught monstrous catfish weighing more than 100 kg in the Danube; carp, perch and pike-perch are also prevalent in the Drava and swamps of Kopački Rit Nature Park. Grape vines, the source of some fine white wines, are cultivated in the Baranja region north of the city. Some of this natural bounty will find its way to your dinner table. With its bars and nightclubs, university and parks, and adventures in the pristine areas surrounding the city, Osijek hopes to attract the kind of visitor who isn’t content to lie on a beach. Arriving in osiJeK Europe In Your Pocket Th e r e w a s a t i m e w h e n Osijek was Croatia’s biggest city. Benefitting from a prime location near the confluence of the Drava and Danube rivers and near the boarder between the Hapsburg and Ottoman empires, Osijek was a trade center and market town for the broad, fertile agricultural area surrounding it. That wealth is on display in Osijek’s many fine Baroque and Secession buildings, especially the houses of German merchants lining Europska Avenija. But during the past century, Osijek has been surpassed in size by Zagreb, Split and Rijeka, and with the turn from communism and Croatia’s war of independence, its economy suffered. For example, the Borovo shoe company, which once employed 20,000 people, now has just 2,000 workers. What’s more, in an age of fast intercontinental travel, Osijek, without a major highway or an international airport, has faced additional hurdles to employing its advantages: a beautiful natural environment, a friendly, welcoming and industrious population, business zones where foreign companies enjoy tax breaks, and one of Croatia’s major universities, which is educating the workforce of tomorrow. But several changes are helping Osijek become a more important transportation junction, enabling it to attract more visitors and make it easier to ship locally manufactured products. Already, in 2007, a four-lane highway was opened between Đakovo and the A3 highway, which connects the Serbian and Slovenian borders. The next section, to Osijek itself, is due for completion this year. This is great in the short term, halving the time to travel the 57 km to the A3. But this development is bigger than that. This section of highway is just on leg of E73 which, when completed, will run from Budapest and points north through Sarajevo to Ploče, on the Adriatic. This will enable some drivers to make the trip from Slavonia to the coast between breakfast and lunch. Unfortunately, construction of the road hasn’t begun yet in Bosnia and Herzegovina or in Hungary. So the full rewards to Osijek will be realized farther down the road, as it were. 5 Cover story View the old part of the city and the Drava river! Dublin In Your Pocket, launched in December of last year, has already proven to be a massive hit: so much so that word from our Irish correspendent has it that other cities on the island will follow sooner rather than later. We will keep you posted. Writing for Athens In Your Pocket is also now close to completion, with the first issue scheduled for an April 1 launch. An online version of the Athens guide should be available some time before: check our website www.inyourpocket.com and blog, at blog.inyourpocket.com for updates. Elsewhere Mostar, Belgrade and Ljubljana In Your Pocket are all in the planning stage and due to appear this year. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Zagreb In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). A m ore immediate development is the start of twice-weekly 19-Euro flights on GermanWings from Osijek Airport to Bonn-Cologne, with connections to four other German cities, London, Zurich and Ankara. Until now, the airport only offered flights to Split and Dubrovnik. Naturally, local leaders hope that other low-cost airlines will join GermanWings, extending options for Osijek residents to visit Europe and for Europe to come to Osijek. Earth, air … water. Osijek is all about its river. Osijek already has a commercial port, but no passenger terminal. More than 25,000 visitors a year come to Osijek by way of Danube River cruises, docking in Vukovar to travel overland to visit the city for a few hours. Plans are in the works to build a port downstream from the Tvrđa within the next 2-3 years, so those ships can cruise right into the city. Eventually, with air and highway connections, Osijek might become more than a stop for lunch and a quick tour, enticing river travelers to linger overnight, or to use the city as entry point for cruises. While they are in town, they can stay in comfortable, modern hotels—several opened just last year – dine on fine Slavonian cuisine in Osijek’s restaurants and explore the city’s many historic and natural attractions. Osijek is becoming more than a crossroads. It’s becoming a crossing of international air, land and-river routes. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Osijek In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-257X ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Grafing, Zagreb Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Editors Assistant Kristina Kovač Researcher Anita Piplović Contributors Jonathan Bousfield Chad F Phillips . Paul Bergen Tocher Mitchell Layout & Design Ivana Novak GordanKarabogdan Photos In Your Pocket team Silvija Butković Tourist Board of Osijek Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Željka Gorišek Mihalić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Cover: Gordan Karabogdan ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. conveniently next to the train station and a tram stop, making that your one-stop for all your coming and going transportation needs. Inside, you can find a payphone, a café that is open 05:00-21:00 Mon to Sat and 06:00-13:00 on Sun. If you’re in need of a toilet, there’s one just to the right as you exit the waiting hall; have your 3 kn ready to pay off the attendant. When you’re ready to buy your ticket, the ticket office is open 05:30-21:00 every day and the information desk operates 05:30-21:00 every day also. Unfortunately, there is no left luggage office. Getting to town: To make your way to the center and the main square, you can catch tram number 2 right in front of the train station, or hire a taxi. They also wait right in front of the train station, straight ahead from the exit of the bus station. By bus. Osijek’s bus station (autobusni kolodvor)resides www.inyourpocket.com 2008 Osijek In Your Pocket 6 Arriving in osiJeK By car. From Zagreb the car journey to Osijek can be accomplished speedily and easily using the A3, a 272 km stretch of easy-travelling highway. At Velika Kopanica, follow the signs for Osijek, although the highway stops short of the destination, at the toll booths in Đakovo. After paying your 88Kn toll, continue to Osijek on the two lane road across the plain. The entire trip shouldn’t take longer than three and a half hours. You might want to stop in Đakovo to take in a visit to its impressive cathedral. Another option for getting to Osijek from Zagreb is using the Podravska Magistrala state road that connects ZagrebBjelovar-Virovitica-Osijek. From Budapest If you’re travelling by car from Budapest, motor right along towards Pecs, then head for Beli Manastir and Osijek. From Bosnia Travellers from Bosnia need to hit the following locations during a car journey Livno-Zenica-Doboj-Slavonski Šamac and your final destination, lovely Osijek. HistorY 1800s. Osijek becomes a thriving multi-cultural metropolis. Croatian, G erman an d Hun garian words are mangled together to form a uniquely polyglot local slang known as Essekerski. 1900 The consecration of the Church of SS Peter and Paul, the tallest structure so fasr built in Osijek. 1907 A branch of the Croatian National Theatre opens in Osijek 1918 The Habsburg empire collapses, and Osijek becomes part of the new Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes – subsequently re-named Yugoslavia. 1923 Osijek city authorities begin demolishing the 18thcentury fortifications, establishing riverside parks in their place. April 1941 Yugoslavia falls to Nazi Germany and her allies. April 1945 Communist partisans liberate Osijek from the Nazis. Croatia once more becomes part of Yugoslavia, this time as a federal republic of a one-party socialist state. 1950s Osijek emerges as a major industrial centre producing, among other things, most of Yugoslavia’s soap and matches May 1980 Yugoslavia’s authoritarian ruler Josip Broz Tito dies, ushering in a decade of stagnation and uncertainty April 1990 With faith in communist Yugoslavia ebbing away, multi-party elections in Croatia are won by the proindependence HDZ. 19 May 1991 A nationwide referendum produces an overwhelming majority in favour of Croatian independence from Yugoslavia 26 June 1991 Croatia declares independence August 1991 The Yugoslav Army, supported by Serbian paramilitaries, begins an invasion of eastern Slavonia. Novemb er 1991 Th e eastSlavonian town of Vukovar falls to Yugoslav-Serb forces, who then advance on Osijek, subjecting the ci ty to a 9-month siege. Osijek remains a front-line city, exposed to periodic shelling, throughout the war. August 1995 Croatian victories on the battlefield bring the Croat-Serb conflict to an end. 1995-2006 Osijek slowly resumes its position as the economic and cultural capital of Croatia’s southeast. 7  Osijek telephone code is +385-31 Climate 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J FMAMJ J A SOND Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm 100 75 50 25 0 3rd century BC Illyrians and Celts establish settlements on the banks of the Drava, near present-day Osijek 133 Roman Emperor Hadrian establishes Colonia Aelia Mursa, a mixed military-civilian settlement on the site of present-day Osijek’s Donji Grad. 380 Mursa is sacked by the Goths 7th century Migrating Slav tribes settle throughou t southeastern Europe. Among them are the Croats, who occupy Slavonia, the Adriatic coast, and much of Bosnia. 8th century Eastern Slavonia becomes part of the Bulgarian Empire 9th century Eastern Slavonia falls under the rule of Croatian kings 1102 Croatia forms a dynastic union with Hungary 1196 Osijek is mentioned for the first time in historical sources as “Essek”, a port and trade centre under the rule of Hungarian King Emerik. 1241 - 2 Slavonia is ravaged by the Mongols 13th - 14th centuries Osijek emerges as an important fortress town under powerful local magnates the Korogyi family. 1526 Th e O t toman Turks capture Osijek from th e Hungarians. 1566 In order to cross the marshlands northeast of town, the Turks construct a 8km-long wooden bridge from Osijek to Darda. Featuring watch-towers and rest-stations, the bridge become one of the wonders of European engineering. 1600s Osijek becomes famous for its 8-day-long spring fair, which attracts thousands of merchants from all over the Ottoman Empire. 1664 In fighting between the Habsburg and Ottoman Empires, Croatian noble Nikola Subić Zrinski leads a unit into eastern Slavonia and burns down the wooden bridge. 1687 Habsburg armies under Count Nicholas Lodron drive the Ottoman Turks out of Slavonia, liberating Osijek on 26 September. Austrian and German settlers arrive in the army’s wake, re-populating the town. The Habsburgs incorporate Osijek into the so-called Military Frontier, a belt of territory bordering on the Ottoman Empire which is placed under the direct rule of Habsburg generals. Osijek becomes the headquarters of the Military Frontier’s eastern sector. 1712 - 22 Construction of the Tvrđa, the fortified complex that serves as the Military Frontier’s eastern HQ. 1738 - 39 Bubonic plague kills an estimated 50% of Osijek’s population. mid - 1700s Eastern Slavonia is re-populated with Croats, Czechs, Slovaks and Germans, summoned here by Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa to boost agriculture and trade. 1783 Habsburg Emperor Josef II moves the Military Frontier’s eastern HQ from Osijek to Petrovaradin (near Novi Sad in Serbia). 1779 A new road from Osijek to Budapest boosts the local economy. Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Osijek (2001): 114,616 Osijek Baranja County: 330,506 Ethnic composition (April 2001): 89.63% Croats, 4.54% Serbs, 5.83% other. Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Rivers: The longest river is the Sava at 562km. It ambles just south of the train station. The Drava covers a distance of 505km; the mighty Danube spans 188km through the country. Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Osijek it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. about 20km from the city by way of the Osijek -Vukovar regional road. The airport serves Split and Dubrovnik twice a week, with GermanWings flights to Cologne/Bonn beginning in spring 2008. The flight schedule is exceedingly simple so there is no information desk, but you can get flight and ticket information by calling airport offices at 51 44 40, 51 44 42, 51 44 41 or 060 33 93 39. You can also buy tickets at the airport office at V. J. Gotovca 7. Should you require some refreshment before or after your journey, there’s a small cafe in the airport that works MonFri 07:00-15:00 and at other times, according to the flight schedule. Toilets are available at no charge. Getting to town: After each landing, there’s an airport bus service that will take you into town for 20kn. If you’re not keen on riding the bus, the airport staff can assist you in renting a car in cooperation with the rental agency Euro-Buba. By train. Osijek’s train station (željeznički kolodvor)is in the process of being renovated, but currently only one hall has been restored . The restoration that has been completed suggests that the station’s interior will have a sparklingly clean and modern look. For now, main services are setteled in this updated part of the station . The domestic service ticket window is open daily 05:00-21:40. The international service ticket window is open 07:40 to 15:10, Mon to Fri, closed Sat and Sun. Calling home: If you need to make a call there’s a payphone and a kiosk inside for purchasing a phone card that is open 05:30-19:30 Mon to Fri, 5:30-12:00 Sat and 5:30-10:00 Sun. Toilet is in the hall to the left and it requires the typical 3kn charge. There is also a 24-hour cafe in the station, Slavonija Inn. There is no left luggage or information desk in the train station. Getting to town: Taxi and trams await right outside the station. By plane. Osijek has a small but functional airport in Klisa, Market values Compare the list of daily necessities: 1kg of beef 10 eggs McDonald‘s Big Mac Loaf of white bread Bottle of local beer (1/2 l) 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket 45kn 12kn 16kn 5.5kn 4.9kn 20kn 8-11kn €6.00 €1.60 €2.20 €0.73 €0.65 €2.75 €1.06 National holidays January 1 January 6 March 24 May 1 May 22 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day Exchange rates (as of 20. 02. 2008): US$1 = 4,94kn € 1 =7,27kn Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 8 Culture & events Tamburica The tamburica is the most popular instrument in Croatian folk music. It is a string instrument related to the mandolin of Italy dating back to the 14th century, it can be heard from most parts of Croatia and on most festive occasions. Culture & events 9 Zlatovez One of Slavonia’s most important artistic traditions is zlatovez, or gold embroidery, which gives the garments worn at folk festivals and events throughout the region a bit of the Midas touch. Originally reserved for royalty and prestigious members of the Church, the craft has been practiced in Slavonia since before the 19th century and involves embroidering clothing with gold thread, creating intricate and beautiful costumes. The art takes part of the spotlight each year in Đakovo, at the annual Đakovački Vezovi festival, which celebrates the numerous folk traditions of the region. Ernestinovo Sculptor Colony Croatian Naive sculptors, as well as others from neighboring countries working in the Naive style, make their way to the Slavonian village of Ernestinovo to participate in a colony of wood sculpture. Painters also participate in the colony’s activities, as well. Festival of Croatian tamburica music This is actually a national competition of tamburica groups. Since 1991, composers, conductors and performers from throughout Croatia and abroad have come together to participate in the festival. Art Ceramic Colony “Hinko Juhn” Another art colony hosted inside a castle. This gathering has been held regularly since 1979 in Pejačević Castle in Našice in memory of Hinko Juhn, one of the creators of modern Croatian ceramic style. Baranja Art Colony Every September, Kopački Rit’s Tikveš Castle hosts painters and sculptors from around Croatia in an event called the Baranja Art Colony. It is possible to see their works in the Gallery of the Baranja Art Colony in the Memorial House in Batina. Days of Graphics In the rooms of Osijek Art Gallery, the Days of Graphics event gives you the opportunity to see graphic exhibitions or to participate in workshops and interesting lectures. Đakovački vezovi If you’re after a taste of tradition, Đakovački vezovi is a well known cultural and tourist event held in Đakovo. It’s a folklore show that offers visitors the opportunity to see a range of diversely handcrafted and richly decorated traditional costumes. It attracts folklore groups from the Slavonija and Baranja region as well as from other parts of Croatia and abroad. Little Festival of the Harpschicord This festival is held in the Church of the Holy Cross in Tvrđa and features performances by, you guessed it - harpsichordists! Croatian harpsichord virtuosos are featured, along with guest soloists who are gifted with other instruments. Miholjačko sijelo This is a traditional gethering of Slavonian folklore groups that strive to keep original Slavonian folklore alive. This event also plays host to associations and groups from the rest of Croatia and abroad. Aside from performances, the programme also includes walks through the city, a chance to enjoy the beauty of the Slavonian tradition. Osijek’s Cultural Summer During this multicultural summer event, it’s possible to see a wide variety of performances throughout the Tvrđa, including theatre, performance art, exhibitions, and literary and film programmes. Aside from local artists, this festival also hosts guests from other parts of Croatia and abroad. Julije Knifer International Jazz Festival Osijek’s International Jazz Festival hosts jazz musicians from Hungary, the Netherlands, Slovenia, Croatia, and the United States in Hotel Osijek for a full program of jazz performance. (Osijek, April 23rd, 1924 – Paris, December 7th, 2004) Born in Osijek and made popular in France, Knifer was one of the most interesting Croatian artists from the 20th century. He adopted the tradition of cubism and purism and blended it with his own touch of repetitive, geometric rhythm. He is best known for the ‘meander’ a motif which he varied in thousands of distinctive variants mostly in black and white, with elements of line, contrast and reduction. This was his selected motif throughout his career. Nowadays, most of his works can be found in German, Swiss and French galleries. His fame continued to grow proportionally and in 2001 Knifer was proclaimed honorary citizen of Osijek. www.inyourpocket.com Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 10 Culture & events Josip Juraj Strossmayer (Great Croatian Maecenas bishop) While in Đakovo, you can peruse the history of one of the most important benefactors and politicians of the Croatian nation, Josip Juraj Strossmayer (February 4, 1815 – May 8, 1905). Strossmayer’s family was Croatian but retained the name passed onto him by his great-grandfather, a German immigrant. After earning doctorates in philosophy in both Budapest and Vienna, Strossmayer was named Bishop of Bosnia and Srijem in 1849, with see in Đakovo. After official instalment as bishop, he declared the motto Everything for the faith and the homeland. In 1860, he became leader of the Croatian People’s Party and continued his campaign as a supporter of the Habsburg Monarchy, while remaining an active proponent of the Slav’s struggle to gain more power within the Monarchy. He sought to merge the then-separate kingdoms of Dalmatia and Slavonia and to introduce Croatian language instruction into public schools. A Sample of Castle and Fortress Ruins Near Osijek: Erdut, Korođ and Bedemgrad Croatia is dotted with hundreds of castles, some intact but most in various stages of ruin. The Osijek area is no exception. The histor y behind the castles is captivating. Originally, they were built as redoubts against the Tartars (Mongols). Later most were expanded and refortified to defend against the Ottoman Turks. By the 17th century, advances in military technology had rendered castle fortresses obsolete. Besides, noble ladies by that time were refusing to live in cold, drafty, isolated, stone castles or forts. Those that weren’t destroyed in battle were abandoned and fell into ruin. But exploring these ruins is pleasurable and fascinating. As they usually were built on hill or mountain tops, the views and the architecture can be spectacular. And wandering through them conjures up visions of what might have transpired there over the centuries. It’s possible to see a good sample of Osijek area castle and fortress ruins in a day trip. Thirty-five kilometers east of Osijek are the ruins of Erdut Castle. You can reach them by following route 2 towards Borovo and Vukovar but then turning left on route 213 towards Bijelo Brdo and Erdut. Once you reach the village center of Erdut you turn east towards the Danube River to find the castle. There is a café in the center of Erdut where you can get refreshments. Built in the 14th century, Erdut Castle lies on a bluff 70 meters above the Danube. The surrounding area below the bluff is completely flat, so it’s easy to see why nobles built the castle on this spot – it provided an excellent view of any marauding hordes invading from the east. Crossing the meandering Danube in Medieval times was a len gth y process, so af ter spot tin g the ag gressors the castle’s inhabitants were gi ven a goo d chan ce to prepare their defenses, or to flee. It also didn’t hurt that the alluvial soil near the river is some of Central Europe’s finest, so your serfs could grow a cornucopia of crops, including grapes to make the area’s renowned wines. The area around Erdut is a prime nesting site for storks. During spring and summer often you will find a nesting pair in the castle, standing like sentinels on the ramparts. The second stop on our day tour of Osijek area castle ruins is Korođ, a good example of a lowland castle/fortress. Unlike Erdut and other hill top castles, for defense it relied on walls 2.5 meters thick, a berm and a moat rather than cliff top inaccessibility. Its walls and moat form a nearly perfect circle. Korođ is located just south of Osijek near the village of Brijest. To get to Korođ retrace your route towards Osijek from Erdut, turning left (south) on route 518 towards Brijest, Antunovac and Vinkovci. Before you get to Brijest there is a small sign on the right (west) side of the road pointing the way to Korođ. You have to drive about a kilometer on a dirt road to reach the fortress, the walls of which are made of red brick. ruined CAstles It’s believed that Korođ was constructed in the 13th century. The castle/fortress is named after the Hungarian noble family that first owned it. In the 14th and 15th centuries Korođ’s ownership changed hands several times. The Turks invaded and occupied the Osijek area in 1529. Curiously, although they occupied the surrounding region the Turks never bothered to capture Korođ. Their lack of interest probably stemmed from its being located in a swamp! Austro-Hungarian forces continued to occupy the fortress but by 1537 had to abandon it as there was no way to be re-supplied with food and ammunition. After it was abandoned, Korođ fell into ruin. The fortress underwent some restoration between 1967 and 1973. Legend has it that the treasure of one Baron Trenk is buried on the grounds of Korođ, so the fortress retains some of its mystique. The third castle ruin on the day tour is Bedemgrad, which consists of a spectacular tower and a moat. You can drive a vehicle right up to Erdut and Korođ, but you need to hike to Bedemgrad. To reach the site, retrace your route from Korođ towards Osijek, but turn left (west) on route 2 towards Našice, which is a sizable town with several cafes and restaurants. From there go south on route 53 towards Slavonski Brod. Near kilometer marker 10 on route 53 there is a sign on the right (west) side of the road that says “Bedemgrad 30’ “ [‘ = minutes]. From there a marked trail gently ascends to the castle. If you go in late spring, summer or early fall it’s advisable to wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt as some brambles and nettles lurk along the trail and around the ruin. To enhance the feeling of adventure and exploration, a machete would be handy. Bedemgrad is thought to have been built by Templar knights in the 14th century. Could it be that the brambles are there to protect the Holy Grail? Alas, this author’s search was unsuccessful, although a more persistant reader may have more luck! Like most castles and fortresses in Central Europe, Bedemgrad was built for defensive purposes and so is perched on a cliff. A moat 70 meters in diameter also provided protection. Under the southern edge of the cliff there was an ancient road from Inicero (near what is now Požega) through Stravianis (near Našice) to Mursa (near Osijek). Below the ruin archealogists have found several items from the Roman era: a sacrificial vessel, tombstone and bricks marked with the second Roman legion’s insignia. Bedemgrad’s first owners were the Aba family of Našice. Later owners were the noble famil y, Lacković, from Gorjani and Ilok. The Turks captured Bedemgrad in 1541 and after that it fell into ruins. The onl y par ts visible today are the entrance tower and the moat. Aside from seeing three castles, by traveling to Erdut, Korođ and Bedemgrad you can learn a bit about the region’s turbulent history, and you get to see much of the breadth and variety of Osijek Baranja County: the Danube River in the east, vineyards and forested, mountainous terrain in the west. Story by Tocher Mitchell 11 Branko Lustig (Hollywood producer and winner of two Oscars) Osijek is the birthplace of the only Croatian to win two Oscar Awards – Hollywood producer Branko Lustig. Born to a Croatian Jewish family, Lustig was imprisoned for two years in Auschwitz and Bergen-Belsen. He received his first Oscar for production of Schindler’s List, in which he makes a cameo as the maitre d’ of an SS nightclub. Further success and another Oscar came with Gladiator in 2001. Davor Šuker (Golden Player) Croatia has had some outstanding football players in its history, but perhaps none have enjoyed a career as illustrious as that of Davor Šuker, an Osijek native and Croatian football legend. Šuker began his career in with NK Osijek in 1984. After playing five seasons there, he moved on to Zagreb and Dinamo, where he made a significant impression on European football fans and clubs alike, prompting a move up into the international leagues with his move to Real Madrid in 1996. This move afforded him the opportunity to assist in capturing his first international title, the Spanish League title in 1997 and subsequently the Champions League in 1998. 1998 was a banner year for Šuker, as he went on to lead Croatia in their first-ever World Cup appearance, helping the team to a remarkable third place finish with six goals, a performance that earned him the Golden Boot for that World Cup. Šuker saw more team changes starting in 1999, first to Arsenal and then to West Ham United and 1860 Munich, the club from which he retired in 2003. In 2004, Šuker was named one of the 125 greatest living football players by Pele and in November, 2003, the Croatian Football Federation named him their Golden Player, recognizing him as the best Croatian footballer from the past fifty years. In 1869 and 1870, Strossmayer attended the First Vatican Council in Rome, where he made a three-hour speech, completely in Latin, denouncing the doctrine of papal infallibility and unlimited power of the Pope. This speech was considered heretical. He later gave in on the issue of papal infallibility. Strossmayer used funds from his diocese to fund the construction of churches, galleries, school, and perhaps most notably he oversaw the construction of the cathedral in Đakovo from 1866 to 1882. He is also known for contributing to the construction of roads, helping the poor throughout Croatia, and even contributed materials for the construction of Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The university in Osijek is named in honour for him and a statue of Strossmayer stands in the park just below the Academy building. Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 12 wHere to stAY Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool wHere to stAY Zoo H-1, Sjevernozapadna obala bb, Tvrđavica, tel. 22 99 22, fax 22 99 11, zoo-hotel@zoo-hotel.com, www. zoo-hotel.com. The Hotel Zoo, across the river next to the city zoo, is painted the color of a lime-flavored sports drink, the only shade you won’t find in jungle or savannah. But inside, it’s wood, marble and animal skin. Each room, including opposite ends of the dining room, is furnished with a predator or prey theme, leopard- or zebra-print, including your fuzzy slippers. The motif is attractive, and many rooms have a view of the city across the river. The restaurant seats 250 people and can be partitioned for banquets and conferences. One room is handicapped-accessible. Q19 rooms (3 singles 490Kn, 14 doubles 619Kn, 1 apartment 750Kn, 1 Deluxe 750Kn). PHARULGK hhhh Dalibor Nedela 13 Old-school charm Waldinger A-1/2, Županijska 8, tel. 25 04 50, fax 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, w w w.waldinger.hr. Housed in a handsome Art Nouveau building a few steps away from the Cathedral, this small-sized and intimate hotel conjours up the atmosphere of nineteenth-century Osijek’s belle-epoque. Plush red-and-gold carpets and solid dark-brown furnishings provide an opulent feel, and each room comes with a reasonable amount of desk space and a fair-sized bathtub. Q17 rooms (1 single €91, 14 doubles €135, 1 apar tment €168, 1 Presidential Suite €280). PHARFLGBKDW hhhh Ritam F-2, Kozjačka 76, tel. 31 03 10, fax 31 03 12, Mid-range 28 38 91, info@hotel-central-os.hr, www.hotel-centralos.hr. The Hotel Central certainly lives up to its name. This comfortable hotel offers simple, clean and affordable rooms right on the main square. The friendly staff can even help you rent a bike from the hotel’s own service and send you in the right direction for a relaxing day trip around Osijek. Q32 rooms (16 singles €47, 16 doubles €73). OA6LGBKW hh Drava A/B-3, Ivana Gundulića 25a, tel. 25 05 00, fax 25 05 03, ured@hotel-drava.com, www.hotel-drava. com. A small freestanding hotel off Gundulićeva, the Drava is close to a tram stop and a short walk from the main square. Understated modern in the foyer gives way to skylit halls and brightly-colored, comfy rooms. Beds are comfortably sized: Single rooms have double-beds and some doubles have queen-size beds. A family might like one of the business rooms, each of which offers a pull-out couch in a separate seating area. Breakfast is served in the dining/reception area. Rooms have satellite TV. Laundry service is available. Q11 rooms (4 singles 360Kn, 7 doubles 550Kn, Additional bed 190Kn). PTAR6C hhh Pansion Waldinger A-1/2, Županijska 8, tel. 25 04 50, fax 25 04 53, info@waldinger.hr, www.waldinger.hr. Intended to cater to the needs of businesspeople, Pansion Waldinger is a charming, modern accommodation located directly behind the Hotel Waldinger. All rooms are equipped with telephone and internet connection for those who need to stay connected and room service is available from 07:00 to 23:00. All that aside, the true amenity is location. Stone walls create a peaceful, green garden right in the centre of the city that lends a comfortable, out-in-the-country vibe to all of the rooms. Q7 rooms (1 single €41, 5 doubles €62, 1 triple €83). PARUFLGBKDW hhh Central A-2, Trg Ante Starčevića 6, tel. 28 33 99, fax Upmarket Osijek A/B-1, Šamačka 4, tel. 23 03 33, fax 23 04 44, info@hotelosijek.hr, www.hotelosijek.hr. This hotel has actually been around for 27 years, but the facelift it recently received has made it look brand-spanking-new. The gleaming glass of the hotel dominates the skyline of the Winter Harbor, and inside offers the services you expect from any quality four-star hotel: fitness center, wireless Internet, catering and conference organization, and on and on. There are some hotels closer to the center, but for comfort and luxury, including prime location for Osijek’s Promenade, this is your place. Q147 rooms (25 singles €103 - 147, 7 apartments €201 - 527, 66 Double Classic €103 - 128, 39 Double Superior €116 - 142, 10 Double Deluxe €147 - 174). PTHARUIFGBKDS hhhh Villa Sveti Rok H-2/3, Svetog Roka 13, tel. 31 04 90/ 091 929 43 84, fax 31 04 99, villa.sveti.rok@os.t-com. hr, www.villa-sveti-rok.hr. Hospitality is the keyword at this cozy guesthouse, lovingly decorated with your comfort in mind each step of the way. There are seven rooms in all, just enough to ensure the proprietors have the right amount of time to make you feel right at home. Each room has a hydromassage bath to prepare you for an excellent night’s sleep on areal wooden bed,complete with a comfy mattress that could tame even the most frightful insomniac. When you’re up and ready to get back to business, the wireless Internet connection comes in handy, as well as a power breakfast in the tastefully decorated bistro where breakfast is served. Q7 rooms (5 doubles €99, 1 triple €118, 1 apartment €170). PA6ULGDW hhhh Osijek In Your Pocket hotel-ritam@hotel-ritam.hr, www.hotel-ritam.hr. Located in a residential neighborhood near the Hippodrome, the Hotel Ritam has an adjacent aerobics studio and table tennis. Cool down in the coffee bar. Spacious, simple rooms have single beds and satellite TV. Breakfast is served in the dining room. Q9 rooms (6 singles 485Kn, 3 doubles 678Kn, 1 person in large room 358Kn). PTAR6FLC hhh Silver J/K/L/M-4, Martina Divalta 84, tel. 58 25 35, fax 58 25 36, hotel@hotel-silver.hr, www.hotel-silver.hr. A new three-star hotel located just a few minutes’ walk from the city center, Hotel Silver offers a whole slew of amenities like guarded car park and meeting facilities. As an added bonus, a night’s stay won’t break the bank. Located a stone’s throw from shopping centers, sports and swimming facilities and the football stadium, this is a fine choice for accomodation near the center. Q21 rooms (3 singles €55, 18 doubles €77). POHARULGBK hhh Vila Ariston A.K.Miošića 6, tel. 25 13 51, fax 25 13 50, ariston.d.o.o@os.t-com.hr, www.hotelaristonosijek. hr. A residential street round the corner from the train station is the tranquil location for this rather classy smallhotel hideaway. The rooms - each of which is named after a flower and comes with an appropriately pastelly colour scheme - come with parquet floors, retro furniture, deep sofas, and decently-proportioned desks. The massage nozzles in the shower units should help to ease the stress of a day spent pacing the mean streets of eastern Slavonia. Q10 rooms (9 doubles €105, 1 Presidential Suite €135). PTHAFLGKD hhh mursa@zug.hr, www.zug.hr. Hotel Mursa’s prime attribute is its location. It’s just a five-minute walk to the hotel from the train station. Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by a massive hotel full of small, yet functional and efficient rooms. Many of the rooms have small balconies that offer an excellent view of the city, with the fortress and the river just in the distance. The large dining area hosts breakfast in the morning from 07:00 to 09:00. All of these elements combine to make this hotel one of the best choices for reliable, budget accomodation in Osijek. Prices are per person per night. Q130 rooms (singles 320Kn, 125 doubles 270Kn, 2 triples 660Kn, 3 Presidental suite 900Kn). PHA6LK hh Mursa Bartola Kašića 2a, tel. 22 49 00, fax 20 76 10, Out of town Termia Sunčana 39, Bizovac, tel. 68 51 00, fax 68 51 79, marketing@bizovacke-toplice.hr, www.bizovacketoplice.hr. Twenty kilometres northwest of town next to a spa centre and hospital complex, this strange building looks like a huge red-brick ocean liner come to rest in the Slavonian plain. The frumpily furnished rooms are a tight squeeze, and the hotel’s endless gloomy corridors are somewhat disorientating, but there’s a great choice of fitness facilities on site. Guests have free use of the Aquapolis swimming-pool complex (open daily 08:00 0 20:00) which features a brace of indoor pools fed by invigourating spa water. An outdoor pool surrounded by grassy lawns is in use from June to September. The complex also offers a full range of health treatments (such as massage, hydromassage and so on), although the atmosphere is that of an old-style sanatorium rather than a swanky modern wellness centre. Q107 rooms (18 singles €42, 79 doubles €68, 10 suites €99). PJHAUIFLEGBKDC hh Budget Apartmani Millenium E-4, Kralja P. Svačića 12, tel. 50 27 77, fax 53 13 30, info@millennium-osijek.hr, www.millennium-osijek.hr. Convenient to some of the student dorms near Donji Grad, as well as the hospital and the Tvrđa, the Millennium offers neat, simply-furnished rooms with satellite TV, a dining room and adjoining café-bar if you need a pick-me-up after a long trip. If that isn’t enough, some rooms have bathtubs with massage-jets so you can relax before heading out for a night on the town. Q16 rooms (5 singles 340Kn, 8 doubles 560Kn, 3 apartments 790 890Kn). PTARUG hhh www.inyourpocket.com 2008 14 restAurAnts Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest station 6 Animal friendly restAurAnts Out of town 01 80, baranjska-kuca@net.hr, www.baranjskakuca. odmor.org. One of the delights of visiting a continental city is the chance to check out some local cuisine and one could hardly ask for a better place to accomplish that goal than this ethnic restaurant. Several local specialities are prepared to perfection and come highly recommended, including fiš paprikaš, a hearty fish stew and šaran u rašljama which is skewered carp cooked over an open fire. Selected evenings see live Roma music performances. With the excellent food and atmosphere, there will be some competition for tables. Make sure you call and reserve in advance. QOpen 11:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (10-60kn). PALGB Citadela Šandora Petefija 39, Vrdarac, tel. 75 31 84, citadela@osijek.t-com.hr. Another local favorite when out of town that has cultivated a solid reputation for quality fish paprikas. Those in the know refer to it as the must try for that speciality dish. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00. PALGB 15 Tikveš Kristina 4, Tikveš, tel. 75 29 01, fax 75 29 02, restoran.tikves@os.t-com.hr, www.restoran-tikves.hr. So, you’re in the Kopački Rit area but don’t feel like traipsing through the woods to hunt for your own dinner? No problem! There’s a menu full of local favourites on offer here, right near the park. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PALB Baranjska kuća Kolodvorska 99, Karanac, tel. 72 www.inyourpocket.com Slavonski kulen From the Slavonia region, it’s a sausage made from the best part of the pig. Locals refuse to compromise on this notion too, telling us there can only be ‘one kulen per pig’. It’s brilliantly spiced with red pepper, salt and white garlic and is tremendously expensive (300kn/kg). The final product is a wonder of scientific processing: the mix is stored in a pig intestine, specially bound and then is carefully air dried and smoked like a jerky. Pizza As B-2/3, Radićeva 16, tel. 21 25 00. Warm colours, cushion-tossed wooden benches and barrel-vaulted brick ceiling make this a cosy location in which to tuck in to a broad range of pizzas, risottos and pastas. The thin-crust pies are generous in size and come with reasonably authentic Italianstyle toppings. There are some inspired local concoctions as well - the Osiječka pizza, liberally covered with slices of spicy Slavonian sausage, soon had our gastric juices gurgling. The no-smoking area is reasonably separate from the fuggy section, and there’s a small terrace on the pavement out front. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (25-35kn). PNB El paso B/C-1/2, Šetalište kardinala Franje Šepera bb, tel. 20 35 00/ 098 20 50 77., www.kubo.hr. The name is suggestive of south of the border and the location is suggestive of seafood, but neither is really to be found and it doesn’t seem to matter all that much. Right along the Promenade, look for the boat and hit the deck for pizza and pasta dishes. There’s an a kid’s menu for the little ones that features kid-size portions of cevapcici or turkey with fries. The temptation to shout, “anchors aweigh!” was real, but we don’t think that boat’s going anywhere. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AB Galija H-2, Gornjodravska obala bb (on the river-boat), tel. 28 35 00. The restaurant’s motto is “A view that has no price.” But you have to search a little to find the restaurant itself, up-river from the Zimska Luka, past the derelict building, on the boat moored on the river. While stuffing yourself on the usual pizza and grill offerings, you can watch the people jogging on the promenade across the river. Pizza comes with a chilled pitcher of ketchup. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. TB International 10 00, fax 57 07 47. If you ask a local for a dining-out recommendation, you’re likely to hear about this place. Bijelo-plavi is Croatian for “blue-white,” a nod to the colors of FC Osijek, whose home games are played just a short walk from the restaurant. Homemade bread is whipped fresh everyday and there’s a menu full of international and Croatian specialities. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALB Confucius B-2, Kapucinska 34, tel. 21 01 04. Scouring manuscripts and quotes of the wisdom of Confucius for mention of this dependable Chinese restaurant will lead you nowhere, but it’s operated in the same place for years, so apparently they’re doing something right. If you have a craving for some Chinese, this is a decent place to grab some. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAS Laguna Croatica A-2, Dubrovačka 13, tel. 36 92 03. The inviting brick and wood interior is the first thing that strikes a first-time visitor to this unique fish restaurant, but the menu quickly becomes the main attraction. There are both fresh and salt water fish on offer and the dish which has made the restaurant particularly well-known, namely tasty squid done up to perfection. The dining area is quite small, so you’ll want to call and reserve in advance. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. PA Mađarska retfala Šandora Petefija 22, tel. 30 22 43. A visit to this restaurant shouldn’t be accompanied by expectations about trappings like classiness or refinement, bu t you can look for ward to some reasonabl y-priced Hungarian specialities, such as iš-fiš paprikaš. Yes, you read that right: iš-fiš paprikaš. It’s a stew made in the same way as locally famous fish paprikas with rooster substituted for fish. Try it with a side of the restauran’t homemade pasta. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. P Muller Trg J.Križanića 9, tel. 20 47 70, zeljkokolar@vip. hr. Handily situated on the Tvrđa sightseeing route, Müller will sort you out with pretty much everything from the Croatian culinary repertoire. Choose between grilled steaks, Germanic schnitzels, and pan-fried local smuđ (pike-perch). Grilled fish and scampi from the Adriatic are also on the menu, although they probably spent a few days in the freezing compartment before arriving at your table. The house-plants in the main dining room add a homely touch, and there’s a slightly plusher upstairs chamber suitable for wining and dining business clients. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (75-120kn). PJA Bijelo plavi J/K/L/M-4, Martina Divalta 8, tel. 57 hi.t-com.hr. If you happen to be in the area of the football stadium and feel those first, faint inklings of hunger, make a bee-line for this pizzeria. It’s well-known around town for churning out quality pies. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. PAB Strossmayer F/G/H-2, Josipa Jurja Srossmayera 133, tel. 37 58 88, bkocsis@inet.hr, www.omnia-osijek.hr. On the street of the same name, this attractive Secessionstyle restaurant offers up pizza and barbecue just a stone’s throw from the main square. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PAB Sebastian D-4, Sjenjak 59, tel. 57 09 04, denarius@ Traditional Alas H/I/J-3, Reisnerova 12a, tel. 20 23 11. Alas is local dialect for fisherman, and this friendly little restaurant on a residential street corner is the place to try local freshwater fish dishes. Speciality of the house is perkelt od soma (a deliciously spicy paprika casserole with huge chunks of scaly catfish floating around in it), usually served with home-made noodles smothered in cheesy sauce. Just in case you get carried away, bright orange bibs are provided to prevent you from dribbling it all down your chest. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGB Baranjska kuća 20 70. We heard about an excellent Hungarian restaurant with scrumptious food and an easy-to-find location and decided to put both parts of that claim to the test. Standing right on the main road in Suza, the restaurant’s location really is prime. And as for the food, apparently many other people had already been convinced about the quality of the fare, evidenced by the numerous awards hanging on their walls. If we had an award to give for tastiest fish paprikas in the area, this might well be the winner. The welcoming staff deserves an award for friendliness, as well. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. PAL Kovač čarda Glavna 215, Suza, tel. 73 31 01/ 098 37 Fiš paprikaš Fiš paprikaš is a cooked stew thats combines chillis, onions, various spices and a diverse range of freshly caught river fish. Čobanac Thick spicy čobanac, a traditional Slavonian dish that can be cooked with beef, lamb, veal or pork (or the lot) is blended with local vegetables and spices to create a mouth watering, meaty stew. Cooking competition The National Croatian competition for cooking fiš paprikaš is held every year in Osijek. Winning contestants from different regions hotly contest this acclaimed award. It’s a real attraction for those who enjoy traditionally cooked foods. This is serious cooking... Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 16 restAurAnts Just round the corner from the fruit-and-veg market, this unpretentious basic restaurant is the place where market traders and local office workers come for a cheap and tasty dose of home cooking. There’s a workmanlike range of schnitzels and fish fillets to choose from but the real star of the menu is the thick spicy čobanac (Slavonian beef and paprika stew). Opponents of the demon weed will be pleased to know that the no-smoking dining room is well segregated from the tobacco-stained bar area. QOpen 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:00 - 15:00. (18-35kn). PG Karaka J-4, Kneza Trpimira 16, tel. 20 34 00, fax 27 54 90, borota@kubo.hr, www.kubo.hr. Owned by the same people as Pasta Pizza Bar El Paso, Karaka offers charcoalgrilled variations on Croatian cuisine, such as chicken legs stuffed with cheese and ham, in traditionally large portions. The restaurant is bright and airy, with an ample terrace heated with gas heaters in the winter. They offer a kids’ menu and a breakfast menu, too, if you’re tired of the meat-and-cheese platter at your hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PALB CAFés Slavonska kuća D-2, Kamila Firingera 26a, Tvrđa, tel. 36 99 55. This is where you get your full Slavonian experience. Don’t be surprised if someone at the next table asks the waiter to turn up the tamburica music and then sings along. Freshwater fish are prominent on the menu and mounted on the wall, but you’ll also find plenty of other traditional dishes perfect after a long day plowing the fields or hiking across them: Venison with onions and paprika, cobanac, svargl (pig’s head meat, skin, ears, tongue, heart, boiled in a stomach and pressed into sausage - yum). But don’t expect pizza. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PTJAGB www.hotelosijek.hr. Weekend mornings see Osijek’s Promenade filling up with loads of stylish café-goers relaxing and re-hashing the events of the night before. The epicenter of the chatting and chilling seems to be this trendy café, whose roomy terrace is the perfect place to grab an outdoor table and catch a view of the river and the harbor. Bring a jacket or jumper in case the mid-morning sun is obscured by the hotel towering up over the terrace, or retreat inside to warmer climes in the equally comfy inside seating. QOpen 07:00 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. PAGB Kavana Waldinger A-1/ 2, Županijska 8, tel. 25 04 70, www.waldinger.hr. Right on the main square next to the lobby of the Hotel Waldinger, this classically-decorated cafe is one of the best spots in town to enjoy a coffee. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAG Mala kavana Županijska 2. It’s the position right next to Gornji Grad’s main square that makes Mala Kavana one of the most popular places in which to settle down for a city-centre chin-wag. The coffee-coloured décor - black leather chairs and pale brown drapes - puts you in the right mood to sip some of Osijek’s most satisfying brews. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B 17 Buffet Lav B-2, Trg Ljudevita Gaja 5, tel. 21 33 75. Kavana Osijek A/ B-1, Šamačka 4, tel. 23 03 56, Fast food Problem: you need a quick lunch at a good price. Solution: Peach! This bistro at the center of the town has light and delicious baked goods on offer, or you can choose something hot off the grill like cevapcici or opt for some fried calamari. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (10-35kn). B K topu D-2, Fakultetska 1, tel. 21 09 04. When you’re sightseeing in the Fortress and need a quick sandwich to keep you going, this is the best choice. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (10-15kn). Leganini G-4, Sv. L.B. Mandića 31, tel. 29 74 99, w w w.leganini.hr. “Lega” means “pal” in the Osijek dialect. The motto of this “friendly café” is “Try something new,” meaning a sandwich wrap instead of čevapi or pljeskavica. The flat bread is made to order, then wrapped around your choice of meats, sauces and fresh vegetables. Located on the way into town on the route from Đakovo highway, this is a good place for a quick bite if you’re hungry after a long drive. They also deliver. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PTAS McDonald’s A-1/2, Županijska 7, tel. 21 45 07. Not every meal can be a luxuriant, home-cooked affair. Sometimes it’s simply necessary to give in to the twin temptations of convenience and, well, french fries. And did I mention those sinfully yummy Smarties McFlurries? Osijek’s McDonald’s has the distinction of being located on the ground floor of the National Theatre, a curious location for a fast food restaurant bu t extremel y convenient nonetheless. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A Pink Panther B-2, Lorenza Jagera 5, tel. 20 11 19, slaven@frequens.hr. It takes a little effort to get down the steps into the Pink Panther’s lair, but the tasty sandwiches, burgers and salads at affordable prices make the journey worth it. Open: daily 08:00-22:00, Sat 10:00-13:00 and 19:00-22:00, Sun 19:00-22:00. Q (10-35kn). Zeleni val A-1/2, Županijska 22, tel. 20 08 64. Locals claim there are only two places to score quality ćevapčići in town and this is one of them. Its excellent location close to the center makes it a logical choice when you’re sightseeing and want to indulge in some local cuisine. Vegetarians and fine-dining enthusiasts beware: the menu is principally meat and is served up in a simply-decorated space with very few frills. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (20-35kn). Breskva B-2, Lorenza Jagera 6, tel. 20 49 05. Desserts Kavana Waldinger A-1/ 2, Županijska 8, tel. 25 04 70, www.waldinger.hr. Osijekers in the know come here to have a coffee, but they top it off with some of the homemade cakes that have made this cafe famous throughout the city. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Slastičarnica Promenada A/B-1, Šamačka 4, tel. 23 03 55. Sipping coffee and people watching along the Promenade can be a demanding persuit, so you might need a bit of a sugar boost to go along with that caffeine, just to keep you going. Right next door to Kavana Osijek, Cakes Promenada has a display case full of big, colorful cakes and mounds of ice cream just begging to be sampled. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00. PAB Kod javora M-2, Donjodravska obala 14, tel. 50 69 50. Nestled right on the Drava River, this fish restaurant is a bit off the beaten path but the protected terrace, which allows for outdoor seating year round, and the quality menu both make it worth the trip. The stars of the menu are fish specialities like fish paprikas and river fish, but there are some standout meat dishes that warrant a try also. Your meal will just beg to be complemented by a Croatian wine from the solid wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. ALGB Kod Ruže D-2, Kuhačeva 25a, Tvrđa, tel. 20 60 66, fax 37 34 48. According to old records, Benedikt Muller bought “the house at Ruza’s” in the Tvrđa for 900 florint in 1758. Kod Ruza is owned by the same family as the pizza restaurant Strossmayer, and they’ve stocked it full of character: Old photographs and knicknacks, heavy wood tables, and a menu full of Slavonian favorites. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PTJAIEB Konoba Jure L-4, Splitska 1 (Donji grad), tel. 50 58 00 / 28 50 00. If you want to fill your belly fast for just a few kunas, this is the place. The menu is simple: Grilled meats, plus the traditional stews and soups. Find the restaurant on the edge of Donji Grad, a couple blocks from the hospital, next to the train tracks. Surprising for a small family-style restaurant, there were well-marked smoking and non-smoking sections QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. PTAG San Francisco Coffe House B-2/3, Radićeva 12, tel. 58 03 54/ 099 212 80 32; 099 212 80 33, denis@ sfch.hr, www.sfch.hr. A contemporary coffee bar that gives initiates of the caffeine cult pretty much everything they could wish for in the espresso, latte and mocha line, and succeeds in being a stylish hangout into the bargain. You can perch in 60s-style bucket chairs or lounge around in white settees, while gazing at photographs of the Golden Gate bridge and other sunshine-state landmarks. The muffins and cookies make a nice change from the ‘you-can-have-any-cake-youlike-as-long-as-it’s-a-strudel’ approach of most other Croatian cafés. There’s a decent-sized no-smoking space at the back. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGB Trica B-2, Lučki prilaz 2, tel. 21 13 33. Coffee is the glue that holds Croatian society together and the social scene of Osijek is no exception. The city has several excellent spots that are perfect for having a morning or afternoon kava and this well-known spot, located virtually on the Promenade, is one of them. The terrace is one of the hot spots to be in summer. When the mercury drops, venture down the stairs and enjoy your coffee inside, hidden away from that brisk wind blowing across the river. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. B Hungry for more? Just click! www.inyourpocket.com Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 18 nigHtliFe Bars Radićeva this is the classiest and the cosiest. Subdued lighting, wooden furnishings, basement location and an unobtrusive musical soundtrack make it very easy to settle in here for a quick drink and not get up again for hours. Good range of bottled beers behind the bar. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Franje Kuhača 13. Lovely barrel-vaulted s p a c e o n Tv r đ a ’ s central square. The reproduction Baroque prin ts on th e walls make it something of a museum to Habsburgera nostalgia, although most patrons are too busy slu g gin g back bottles of Karlovacko to n oti c e. Q Op en 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. K C 2/3, Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 38a, tel. 098 84 30 78. Rather than fuss with choosing a new name after changing locations, Osijek’s famous Kesten Bar whittled its name down to a single letter. The location close to the train station hasn’t interfered with the normal regimen of relaxed rockers hanging around the bar til around 11pm, when they venture out for some wilder nightlife around the city. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. PNB S.Co.Bar B-2/3, Sunčana 8. Enter the grafitti-covered passageway and head up the stairs to find this enjoyable cultish first-floor bar - formerly known as Voodoo - that has long catered for the cooler end of Osijek’s alternative crowd. Zany abstract murals, a mixture of high chairs and low sofas, and groovy not-quite-top-40 sounds create the ideal enviroment for a round of drinks and arty conversation. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. wHAt to see Tufna Franje Kuhača 10, tel. 21 50 20/ 098 55 34 44, fax 21 50 21, intuit@os.t-com.hr, www.tufna.hr. This club recently made its debut at the site of the old Posh club and despite its recent opening, you can rely on it to be one of the best night spots in the city. Provided you are more than 21 years of age, you can roll in to check out two floors of Osijek locals getting down to disco and top 40 on the ground floor while digging the unique black and white décor, or the basement and its polychromatic color scheme and electro beats. QOpen , Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. 19 Amsterdam B-2/3, Radićeva 18. Of all the bars along Tourist information 52, fax 21 48 53, info@tzosbarzup.hr, www.tzosbarzup.hr. QOpen 07:30 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Osijek Tourist Board A-1/2, Županijska 2, tel. 20 37 55, fax 20 39 47, grad-osijek@os.t-com.hr, www. tzosijek.hr/Index_e.htm. Osijek-Baranja County Tourist Board B-2, Kapucinska 40, tel. 21 48 General von Becker’s D-2, Museum of Slavonia (Muzej Slavonije) Trg svetog trojstva 6, Tvrđa, tel. 25 07 30, muzel-slavonije@mso. hr. Housed in an eighteenth-century mansion built for the town magistrate, the museum displays a motley collection of local archeological finds, most impressive of which are the Roman-era tombstones which fill the ground-floor hallway. Several rooms of clocks, muskets and other oddities await inspection upstairs. Admission: 15kn adults (18kn if guided), 10kn children (12kn if guided). QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Pubs Old Bridge Pub Franje Kuhača 4, tel. 21 16 11, fax 21 16 13, info@oldbridgepub.hr, www.oldbridgepub.hr. This is cleaner, brighter and posher than any of the old pubs we mis-spent our youths in, but the combination of classy brown furniture and stained-glass windows create the right atmosphere in which to slurp down handsome quantities of ale, with Erdinger, Stella, Kilkenny and Guiness on tap, and a fair few bottled beers too. Garners a healthy cross section of Osijek’s going-out crowd, with everyone from bohemians to business types cramming round the bar at weekends. QOpen , Mon 09:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 01:00, Thu 09:00 - 03:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. St Patrick’s Pub Kuhačeva 15, tel. 20 52 02. Extremely agreeable café-bar-pub on the main Tvrđa square, with comfy green leather booths, Irish beer adverts that look charming rather than just plain predictable, and a huge outdoor terrace that is the ideal place to sun yourself once the weather begins to warm up in spring. The amount of Chelsea FC memorabilia hanging beside the bar is alarmingly inexplicable, but everyone is entitled to their eccentricities. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. Arhitecture Europa Cinema B/C-1/2, Šetalište kardinala F.Šepera 8, tel. 20 55 01. It may look like a graceless pile of red bricks at first sight, but this cubist construction of 1930s-vin ta ge is mu ch treasure d by lo cal architecture buffs, who hail it as an outstanding example of modern architecture. If you’re a sucker for sraight-line minimalism, Europa will have you gibbering with delight. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00. Urania Cinema B-2, Šetalište V.Hengla 1, tel. 21 15 60. The Urania was designed by Viktor Arman in 1912 and quickly became a much-discussed local landmark. Comprising sensuous curvy roof and a vertical-striped façade, i t looks like a hu ge church organ let loose on the city streets. A peach-coloured paint-job (the result of recent renovations) only adds to the unsettling effect. QOpen 16:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:00. Clubs same street as K, this is another rock-fueled joint that is a cool hangout for folks of all ages. The comfy, dark wood interior and mirrors behind the stage make it an excellent environment for checking out acoustic performances on Thursdays and local rock bands on Saturdays. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. Klub Mini Teatar B-4, Vrbaška 1c, www.myspace. com/klubminiteatar.. Ring the bell to get in, then pay 10Kn for your membership card. Beer is cheap and the music is loud. It might be punk, it might be rock. The folks running the place, which is located in an industrial area near the train tracks,say the mission is to offer young people good, live music, especially less-well known bands. QOpen Fri, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Essential Osijek tree-lined boulevard that streaks eastwards from Gornji Grad towards Tvrđa i s fa m e d t h r o u g h o u t Europe for harbouring one of th e b est-preser ve d ensembles of Art Nouveau houses in this corner of the continent. Ranked side by side on the north side of the avenue (numbers 12 to 22), they were commissioned by filthy-rich industrialists and hotshot lawyers in the years just before World War II. Wilim Karl Hofbauer, Ante Slaviček and Franz Wybird were the Osijekbased architects responsible for most of the work. Take a look at the twirly-haired goddesses peering down from no.22, or the gargoyle-like faces perusing passers-by from the façade of no. 12, to get an idea of the fanciful decorative tastes of the era. On the opposite side of the road, the main post office (built in 1912) on the corner of Europska Avenija and Kardinala Stepinca is an impressive example of the more functional, less frivolous architecture of the epoch. Cadillac Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 28. Located on the European Avenue (Europska avenija). The broad C/D/E-2, Europska avenija 9, tel. 25 12 80; 25 12 87/ 25 12 88, fax 25 12 81, gluo@gluo.hr, www.gluo.hr. This all-embracing collection of Slavonian art contains smething for everyone, kicking off with some imposing nineteenthcentury portraits of local aristocrats. Most striking of these is The Pejačević Family in the Park (1811) by German society painter Friedrich Johann Lieder, which fills an entire wall and shows the landowning dynasty lolling around in front of one of their many stately homes. If you want to really impress the locals with your knowledge of nineteenth-century Slavonian painting, then Adolf Waldinger (1843-1904) is the name to drop. Son of an Osijek wine merchant, Waldinger won a place at the Academy of Fine Art in Vienna but failed to graduate, and struggled to earn money as an art teacher before dying penniless and largely forgotten. He’s now considered one of Slavonia’s greatest landscape painters - the moody, asmotpheric canvases on display here help to explain why. Things get more steamy as the collection moves on to the early twentieth-century, when most local artists seemed bent on painting pictures of semi-naked ladies flouncing around in bedrooms. If you can bear to part company with these, a room or two of abstract works by contemporary painters brings things up to date. Admission 10kn per adults and 5kn per child, student or pensioner. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Trg Pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. 31 00 20, fax 31 00 21, www.svpetaripavao.hr. The multi-tiered 90-metre spire of this red-brick neo-Gothic beast provides the city with its defining visual trade-mark. The church was built in the 1890s on the initiative of energetic Đakovo-based Bishop Josip J u r a j S t r o s s m a y e r, w h o reckoned that a 3000-capacity parish church was just what a growing town like Osijek needed. Osijek Art Gallery (Galerija likovnih umjetnosti) Parish Church of St Peter and Paul (Župna crkva sv. Petra i Pavla) A-2, Lost for words? Just click! www.inyourpocket.com Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 20 wHAt to see Th e church is entered via a small door to the right of the main por tal, overlooked by a ferocious-looking trio of gargoyles. The interior is a t rea s u re t rove of n e o-got hi c ornam en ta ti on, with a succession of pinnacled altars overlooked by exhuberant stained glass windows. The interior was finished off in 1938-42 when leading Croatian painter Mirko Rački covered the walls and ceilings with brightly coloured frescoes illustrating episodes from the Old and New Testaments - most of which will be easily identifiable to anyone who paid attention during Bible class. Holly masses are held daily at 07:00 and 18:30 and on Sun at 06:30, 07:30, 08:30, 10:00, 11:30 and 18:30. Lisinskog 3, Tvrđa, tel. 20 81 77. Open daily 10:00-12:00 and 16:00-18:00, but if you want to see it inside closing time you can also ring at the door of the monistery and it will be open for you. Exhibions are changed monthly. Free entry. Magis Club Gallery (Club galerija Magis) C/D/E-2, Europske avenije 6, tel. 21 02 12, marijan@timarex.hr, www.timarex.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. wHAt to see Fr a n c is c a n M o n is ter y Galler y (Galerija Franjevačkog samostana) D-2, Trg Vatroslava 21 Churches H-2, Solarski trg b.b.. Buil t in 1740 as a sign of deli verance from th e p l a gu e s t h a t r a va ge d Osij ek t h rou g h ou t t h e 1730s, this is another of Osijek’s delightful Baroque churches, complete with Austrianate onion dome. Is open only during holly masses which are held on Sundays at 07:30. Chapel of St. Rock (Kapelica sv. Roka) The Drava riverfront. The River Drava is an essential part of Osijek’s character and its difficult to see how the locals would survive without strolling along its southern bank at least a couple of times a week. Main focus of activity is the Zimska Luka (“Winter Harbour”), a row of boat moorings below the Hotel Osijek where you’ll find a handful of floating restaurants, and a row of cubby-hole cafés which explode out onto the pavement in spring and summer. From here, pedestrians and cyclists glide eastwards along Šetalište Franje Šepera, the riverside embankment that leads past a sequence of flowerbeds and grassy parks. At the eastern end of he embankment, the sight of the red-brick Tvrđa fortress district rising out of the surrounding greenery is truly wondruous to behold. The Kompa G/H-1. Looking not much more than a wooden platform with a hut-like cabin on t o p , O s ij e k ’ s m u c h loved “Kompa” (“ferr y’) transports foot passengers from Gornji Grad to the opposite bank of the Drava. It’s a remarkably simple contraption, using the force of the river current as the main means of propulsion – the ferry is held by as chain to prevent it from simply floating off downriver. Popular with families making their way to Osijek zoo (see p.00), the Kompa, shuttles back and forth whenever the komparoš (captain) espies enough passengers to make the trip worthwhile. QOpen May – Sept: 09:00 – 20:00. April & Oct: 09:00 – 18:00. 5kn. Osijek In Your Pocket Tvrđa D-2. An eighteenth- -century complex of cobbled streets, grandiose buildings and open squares, Tvrđa (“Citadel”) is the best-preserved ensemble of Baroque buildings anywhere in Croatia. It began life in 1687, when Habsburg armies kicked Ottoman forces out of Osijek and decided to turn the town into the military nerve-centre of eastern Slavonia. Austrian engineers demolished most of the existing buildings, moved the city centre westwards to today’s Gornji Grad, and spent the next 35 years building a planned settlement comprising barracks, staff headquarters, churches and monasteries, all surrounded by a state-of-theart system of moats, bastions and gun positions. Most of the outer fortifications have long since been demolished, but the heart of the Tvrđa still survives in its original form. At the centre of Tvrđa is Trg svetog Trojstva (Hol y Trini t y Square), a b r o a d t r a ff i c - f r e e expanse dominated on th e nor th ern side by a monumen tal threestorey building that once housed the Habsburg high command. On the western side, the arca d e d h ou s e wi t h spindl y lookou t tower originally accommodated Osij ek’s to wn guard. Stretching either side of the square is a grid-plan of streets, each lined with elegant ochre-coloured buildings where Austrian bureaucrats once toiled over their military plans. A zig-zagging stretch of the outer fortifications still survives on the northeastern edge of Tvrđa. Head down ul. Fakultetska to find the Water Gate (Vodena vrata), one of the last surviving fortress gates, which leads through to the grass-fringed banks of the River Drava. Parish Church of St. Michael (Župna crkva sv. Mihaela) D-2, Trg Jurja Križanića 2, Tvrđa, tel. 20 89 90. When Habsburg forces re-captured Osijek from the Turks, Jesuit priests arrived and converted this former mosque into one of the city’s most handsome houses of prayer, its extrovert custard-coloured façade framed by twin towers topped by metallic onion-shaped domes. The interior features an extravagantly-decorated baroque pulpit, and an animated high-altar painting of St Michael the Archangel battling with demons. Mas is daily at 18:30, Sat at 07:30 and Sun at 08:30, 10:30 and 18:30. 60. Built in 1912, this squat grey structure exudes oodles of charm, thanks largely to the two bulbous domes poking cheekily up from either side of the façade. It’s only when you move round the side of the church and see the Star of David motifs adorning the outer walls that you realise that this is Donji Grad’s former synagogue. Jews made up 8% of Osijek’s population prior to their extermination by the Nazis. Their main synagogue, opposite the town hall in Gornji Grad, was demolished by Croatian quislings in World War II. The Evangelical Church of Good News (Evanđeoska crkva radosne vijesti) M-3, Cvjetkova 32, tel. 50 24 The Church of the Elevation of the Holy Cross (Crkva uzvišenja sv.Križa) D-2, Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog 3, Tvrđa, tel. 20 81 77, fax 21 56 93, kontakt@franjevci.com, w w w.franjevci.com. Th e Franciscans spearheaded the renewal of Catholic life in Slavonia in the years following the Ottoman occupation, and built this fine monastery church to serve as their spiritual centre. The interior contains a wealth of Baroque and Rococo ornamentation, although it’s the gothic statue of Our Lady of Osijek (Naša Gospa Osiječka), a rosy-cheeked Madonna cradling a plump Christ-Child, that draws most in the way of local pilgrims. The accompanying monastery was the site of a theology academy and, after 1735, Slavonia’s first printing press. The reformist Habsburg Emperor Joseph II kicked the Franciscans out of Osijek in 1783, and they had to wait until 1938 to get their property back. For visiting the church you should just ring to the door of the monestary and it will be open for you. Holly masses are daily at 18:00, on Tue at 08:00 and 18:00 and on Sun at 07:00, 09:00 and 18:00. fax 50 32 22, zupa@imemarijino.hr, www.imemarijino. hr. Certainly the prettiest church in Donji Grad, and quite possibly the whole of Osijek, St Mary’s was built in 1733 to cater for the mushrooming population of the Lower Town. The three-tiered bell tower, topped by a dome that looks like an exploding grey tulip, is a feast for the eyes. The peachcoloured interior is enlivened by some spectacular Baroque statuary. It is open for visitors every day, the whole day and holly masses are daily at 18:30 and on Sun at 07:00, 09:00, 11:00, 12:00, 16:30 and 18:30. The Church of the sacred name of Mary (Crkva Preslavnog imena Marijinog) M-3, Crkvena 34, tel./ Galleries City Galleries (Gradske galerije) D-2, Fakultetska 7, tel. 22 92 29. Behind this title you will find three galleries: Kazamat Gallery, Waldinger City gallery and Barutana Gallery. For any info about exhibitions, locations and opening hours you should contact the number above. www.inyourpocket.com  Osijek telephone code is +385-31 2008 22 wHAt to see Landmarks Monument to Defenders B-2, Trg slobode. At the southern end of the Blok Centar stands th e Monument to Defenders, a corten steel installation ere c te d to pay trib u te to Croatian soldiers who fought in the 1991 war. High plates form seven openings or gates, each with an increasing amount of space between them. Seen from a distance, the monument looks like a large wall, but closer inspection reveals the possibility to walk between the plates. The open space seems to suggest the openness and freedom that the artist hoped for after the end of the war, but take a look and decide for yourself. Pejačević fountain (Pejačevićev zdenac) Drava riverfront. This decidedly odd Art-Nouveau-esque object was built by Count Pavle Pejačević in 1903 to beautify the city’s riverfront. Four chunky pillars, each sprouting ornate ironwork swirls, support a central canopy that looks like a magician’s hat. Sadly the fountain is no longer in function, but the surviving structure is a fitting tribute to the prosperous, forward-looking Osijek of the pre-World War I era. Trg svetog Trojstva. Standing at the centre of Tvrđa’s Austrianate main square is the so-called Plague Column (Zavjetni stup), a curious Baroque pillar topped by a swarm of cherubic angels borne on billowing clouds. It was erected in 1729 by the widow of Habsburg General Petraschi to give thanks for the garrison’s deliverance from an outbreak of plague. (It obviously didn’t do much good: plague returned to the city at regular intervals throughout the 1740s). The cloak-shrouded statues at the base, added in 1784, depict saints Sebastian, Rock, Rosalia and Catherine. The bridge of youth (Most Mladosti). This pedestrian hanging bridge (Viseći most) over the Drava river was built in 1979. Well designed and modern in stature, it has become one of the symbols of Osijek. You’ll find it in most postcards and photos that reflect this lovely Northern town. It’s worth the look.. MAil & PHones City tours Osijek first received the electrical tram and as of Spring 2007 that exact tram will be back on the rails. In fact it will be the oldest sin gl e ‘wa gon tram’ preser ved in Europ e. T h e tram will be in full function where it will have an optional 45 to 120 minute journey around the city. Tourist conductors will be dressed as their predecessors from the 1920’s, the tram ticket will be made out as a souvenire and tourists will be able to get off at rest areas, visit major cultural attractions and then return to the tram to carry on. A great way to see Osijek - old style!! 23 Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (031 if you’re calling Osijek for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining 9 digits. Tourist Tram (Turistički tramvaj). Back in 1926, Post Main post office: K. A. Stepinca 17, tel. 25 38 69 QOpen: Mon-Sat 07:30-19:00, Sun closed. Other offices: Ljudevita Posavskog bb, tel. 30 24 44 QOpen: Mon-Fri 07:30-19:00, Sat 07:30-14:30, Sun closed. Martina Divalta 132, tel. 53 07 06QOpen: Mon-Fri 08:00-15:00, Sat and Sun closed. Županijska 8, tel. 20 03 55QOpen: Mon-Fri 08:30-19:00, Sat 07:30-14:30, Sun closed. Plague column (Zavjetni stup svetog Trojstva) In 2008, the museum is hosting s everal small temp orar y exhibitions through early spring while renovation continues on the upper floors. By the end of the year, hopefully, work will be complete and the museum’s permanent exhibit will open upstairs, with welcoming areas, multimedia center and a gift shop to occupy the rooms near the entrance. QOpen 10:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Express mail DHL Republike Hrvatske 39, tel. 20 26 60, www.dhl. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. In Time/ TNT Južna obilaznica bb, tel. 20 59 79, fax 27 20 97, osijek@in-time.hr, www.in-time.hr. QOpen Public telephone Phone cards. You can purchase phone card (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy prepaid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad. 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Internet cafes Press Internet Cafe Lorenza Jagera 24, tel. 21 23 13. You can search and email wildly for 15kn/h. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. B Wi-fi internet access If you’re out and about with your laptop this is your location for wireless internet access: T-mobile store, Prolaz J. Benešića 1, tel. 031/ 23 32 28,QOpen: Mon - Fri 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-13:00, Sun cls. Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Osijek is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. Parks King Držislav Park (Park kralja Držislava) C/D-2. Roughly opposite the main entrance to the Tvrđa district, this neatly manicured stretch of greenery is home to one of Osijek’s best loved monuments. Illuminated by spotlights at night, the life-size Dying Soldier by locally-born sculptor Robert Frangeš-Mihanović (1872-1940) valiantly brandishes a rifle as his feet buckle beneath him. Intended to commemorate the dead of World War I, and now serves as a memorial to all those who have laid down their lives for the motherland. Museum Archaeological Museum of Osijek (Arheološki muzej) D-2, Trg Svetog Trojstva 2/ 20 74 00. Osijek has been settled since the Stone Age, when waves of various Central European tribes ebbed and flowed across the plains. Celts, Romans, Croats, Avars, Goths, Hungarians, Austrians, Germans, Slovaks, and Serbs have left their traces in the area.In 2007, artifacts from around the region found a new home, diagonally across the Holy Trinity Square from the Museum of Slavonija, in the renovated City Guardhouse and an adjacent house. The Archaeological Museum Osijek opened in the fall with a small exhibit in the first three rooms and a display of larger Roman stone artifacts under a glass dome in a lovely arcaded courtyard. Especially interesting is a Celtic helmet that was probably tossed into the Sava during the 1st Century B.C. near Slavonski Brod and recovered during a period when the water level was low. www.inyourpocket.com Osijek In Your Pocket Laid out in the eighteenth century to provide a pleasant strolling area for Habsburg officers and their ladies, this large expanse of meadow and deciduous trees fills the gap between the Tvrđa and Gornji Grad districts. Popular with pram-pushing parents, and a wide variety of human-canine partnerships. Zoological garden (Zoološki vrt) Sjevernodravska obala 1, tel. 28 52 34, postmaster@unikom.hr, www. unikom.hr. The emblem of Osijek zoo is a running cheetah and you will indeed find a pair of these lean spotty cats lurking somewhere in the middle of this riverside complex - although given the size of their cage they’re unlikely to be doing much running. Elsewhere zebras, raccoons, emus and other animals await inspection, and there’s an aquarium section full of scary reptiles. Admission 10kn per adult and 5kn per child. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. King Tomislav Gardens (Perivoj kralja Tomislava). City express mail Cityexpress Pavla Pejačevića 11a, tel. 30 75 07, fax 30 75 09, osijek@cityexpress.hr, www. cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. OverseasExpress Ulica hrastova 1, tel. 29 77 22, fax 29 73 80, osijek@overseas.hr, www.overseas. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. 2008 24 getting Around Airport bus Transfers to the airport are organized by the airport office itself, not an inependent organization. An hour and a half before your flight, you should make your way to Urania cinema and the airport bus will take you straight to the airport. For the ticket, you’ll have to shell out 20kn. getting Around Petrol stations (0-24) Čepinska cesta bb, tel. 29 72 48. H-4, Sv. Leopolda Mandića 50, tel. 29 73 99. J-4, Trpimirova 16, tel. 27 53 90 25 Rent a bike 28 55, cetratou@cetratour.hr, www.cetratour.hr. Place for renting bikes but be sure to call first. QOpen 08:00 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Extreme sport Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 235a, tel. 30 23 64, www.extremesport.hr. Besides bikes for 60kn/ day, in winter time you can hire ski equipment here. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Cetratour G/ H-2/ 3, Ružina 16, tel. 37 29 20, fax 37 Austria, Germany and Switzerland . The trip to Zagreb takes a mere three hours if you’re travelling with the new and refreshingly modern tilting trains, but up to five hours if you don’t have that luxury. Other international destinations served from Osijek are Sarajevo and Budapest. For more options, please check out our train schedules. Ticket office for domestic lines is open daily 05:00-21:40 and international Mon to Fri 07:40-15:10, weekends closed. Road help Airport Klisa Airport Vukovarska 67, Klisa, tel. 51 44 40/ 51 44 51, fax 51 44 60, zracna-luka-osijek@os.t-com. hr, www.osijek-airport.hr/english.php. Osijek’s airport is settled 20km away from Osijek by the Osijek-Vukovar regional road. It is very small and serves only Split and Dubrovnik twice a week, with with GermanWings flights to Cologne/ Bonn beginning in spring 2008. Travel agencies Cetratour G/ H-2/ 3, Ružina 16, tel. 37 29 21/ 37 QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Generalturist B-2, Kapucinska 39, tel. 21 15 00/ 21 29 20, cetratou@cetratour.hr, www.cetratour.hr/en. HAK-Croatian Auto Club , tel. 987. Hertz A/B-3, Gundulićeva 32, tel. 20 04 22, fax 20 04 24, www.hertz.hr/indexen.htm. Open: MonFri:08:00-12:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-13:00, Sun by arrangment. Q A Taxis Taxis await your beck and call in front of the train station. They charge a 25kn flat fee plus 7kn/km. Each piece of luggage will cost you 3kn and if you want a cab to wait while you’re running an errand, it’ll cost you 60kn more. If you need door-to-door service, have the cab come pick you up by calling 031/20 01 00 (daily service), 031/ 37 25 55 (night service). Parking As with most city centers in Croatia, Osijek’s traffic problem is slightly alleviated by a pay parking system. There are 3 zones incidicated by signs on the side of the street: zone 1 (red), 4 kn/h, zone 2 (yellow), 3 kn/h and zone 3 (grey), 2 kn/h. You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car. If you don’t put the ticket in the car window, or you’re late, you’ll be hit with a 60kn fine. Trains Central Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 2, tel. 060 33 34 44, www.hznet. hr/ENG/index.htm. The Croatia railway network has regular trains from Osijek to Zagreb six times per day and one to Rijeka. From Zagreb, there are connections to Slovenia, 15 01, fax 21 15 03, info@generalturist.com, www. generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Panturist d.d B-2, Kapucinska 19, tel. 21 43 88, fax 21 41 52, turizam@panturist.hr, www.panturist.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Planet travel H-2, Gornjodravska obala 88, tel./fax 28 32 94, info@planet-travel.hr, www.planet-travel.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Domestic train schedule From Osijek Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 12:05 05:15 16:05 03:16 05:25 12:05 16:05 Arr. 21:11 20:48 06:57 09:02 08:46 16:48 20:55 City RIJEKA (Zagreb) SPLIT (Zagreb) (Zagreb) SPLIT (Zagreb) ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB To Osijek Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 05:45 07:37 22:22 10:00 12:45 17:05 18:20 Arr. 14:35 21:19 07:16 14:35 18:26 21:19 21:40 Public transport Buses Central Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) Trg Lavoslava Ružičke bb, tel. 060 33 44 66, panturist@ panturist.hr, www.panturist.hr/en/index.asp. Osijek is well-connected with regular routes running to most Croatian cities and also has daily service to Bosnia, Serbia and Germany. Buses also run to Switzerland three times per week. To see if your destination gets service, check out the domestic and international schedule just inside the station or visit their web site that has all necessary info in English. It is also important to note that if you’re buying a return ticket, you must make both the outgoing and return trip with the same operator, so make sure there’s a return trip at the time you would like to head back to Osijek. The bus station can be reached by taking tram number 2 from the main square. The ticket office inside the station hall is open daily from 04:15-21:00, Sun 05:30-21:00 . Osijek offers you two possibilities to get around town: buses and trams. They both operate from 05:00 till 23:00 or midnight, except the tram line that connects Višnjevac and Zeleno Polje on Saturdays nights, on which you can catch a night ride every half hour.You can use the same ticket for both of them and transfer with the same one from bus to tram and vice versa. A ticket is good for 45 minutes after it is validated. GPP Osijek, Cara Hadrijana 1, tel. 031/ 22 83 00, 22 83 33 www.gpp-osijek.com; Traffic info: 031/ 22 83 08. Buses. If you want to take the bus, they operate on the same tickets as trams and the procedure for buying and validating them, as well as the prodecure for getting hit with a fine if you are travelling without one, is the same.The biggest bus stop for local transport is at the Gajev trg, where you can catch a ride to all destinations in town. Trams. Osijek beat its larger European counterpar ts Budapest and Vienna to the punch in developing a tram service, a fact that many Osijek locals will be proud to let you know should you mention their tram service. To take a ride, you need to get a ticket first. They can be purchased directly from the driver for 8-11 kunas, or you can save a kuna by buying at a kiosk. The tram runs on two lines, one connecting Višnjevac and Zeleno Polje and the other making a constant loop that runs from the train station to the main square and back.Once you hop on, make sure to click that ticket in the validation machine.If you’re caught riding without a ticket, you’ll be hit with a 150 kn fine. The trams are quite modern and, if you happen to be an Osijek local that knows the names of the stops, a friendly mechanical voice will cheerfully announce the name of your stop. If you’re a tourist, you might be a bit peeved to learn that the names of the stops are not marked on the sign at most stops. Osijek In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. International train schedule From Osijek Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 06:29 13:24 13:15 05:15 05:15 16:05 Arr. 22:47 22:47 18:42 17:24 12:02 23:28 City BELGRADE BELGRADE BUDAPEST GRAZ LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA To Osijek Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 10:45 22:15 09:41 08:36 06:15 14:08 Arr. 21:14 08:14 14:50 18:26 14:35 21:19 Osijek In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. International bus schedule From Osijek Day 1234567 1234567 - - -4-6 - - -4-61234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 - - - - -67 Dep. 07:00 13:00 15:05 15:05 07:00 12:00 15:45 06.30 09:30 Arr. 10:40 16:40 16:30 11:15 16:50 14:45 18:30 10:00 05:00 City BELGRADE BELGRADE DORTMUND FRANKFURT MOSTAR NOVI SAD NOVI SAD TUZLA ZURICH Osijek In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. Car rental Budget B-2, Kapucinska 39, Generalturist, tel. 21 15 QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Euro - Buba Hrvatske Republike 43/1, tel./fax 21 47 53, tel. 099 219 13 07. Cars can be organized on weekends by phone only. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. H&M A-1/2, Županijska 8 (hotel Waldinger), tel. 20 00 16/ 098 86 78 40, info@hm-rentacar.hr, www.hmrentacar.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. A 00/ 21 15 01, fax 21 15 03, www.generalturist.com. To Osijek Day 1234567 1234567 - - 3 - - -7 - - 3 - - -7 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -2 - - 5 - - Dep. 10:00 15:00 06.00 12:45 07:30 12:00 16:10 13:00 18:30 Arr. 13:40 18:33 08.40 08:40 17:20 14:55 19:00 16:30 13:25 Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 26 getting Around Biking After settling all the other transportation issues like bus, train and car arrangements, there is one more option you should consider: seeing the city of Osijek by renting a bike and cycling around, then heading out for a longer adventure on some of the bicycle trails that allow you to explore the area surrounding the city ‘til your heart’s content. There are two international bike routes in the area that offer you the chance to see a load of cultural sights and meet interesting people along the way. The recently opened Pannonian Peace Route is an 80-kilometer ride from Osijek to Sombor that was sponsored by the Osijek environmental protection society Green Osijek (Zeleni Osijek). The path runs right along the Danube and takes you through the Kopacki Rit and Gornje Podunavlje nature reserves. Map of the route by the price of 10kn is available at Zeleni Osijek, Opatijska 26f, tel. 56 51 80, www.zeleni-osijek.hr, open Mon to Fri 08:00-16:00, Sat and Sun by arrangment. Another popular option is the Danube Route, which runs through the eastern-most parts of Croatia and along the borders with Serbia and Hungary. The 138-km trail leads you through a procession of diverse nature right up to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Danube Route Guide was published by the Bicikl group in Zagreb, www.bicikl.hr. For bike rental options, please see our Getting Around section. sPort Kopacki Rit tourist office or online at www.kopacki-rit.com. For info about licences and permissions please contact: Sport Fishing Union of Osijek-Baranja County, Donjodravska obala 8, tel: 50 44 55, www.ribolov-osijek.hr. QOpen: daily 08:00-12:00. 27 Fishing supplies Adriana ribolovni centar A-1/2, Županijska 45, tel. 20 03 45. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A1, Stjepana Radića 18, tel. 21 27 74. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Bike repair Bicikli Škos A-1/ 2, Županijska 40, tel. 20 09 00, bisikli.skos@optima.hr. Also at Gundulićeva 74, A/ B-3, tel. 37 39 89. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Extreme sport Josipa Jurja Strossmayera 235a, tel. 30 23 64. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Hunting Citizens of Osijek, as well as visitors to the city, have the luxury of enjoying the prime geographical location that Osijek possesses. The city reaps the benefits of close proximity to two major rivers, the Drava and the Danube. Also, one of Osijek’s most important neighbors is the Kopački Rit Nature Park, a wonderland of plant and animal life that just begs to be explored by nature lovers. In fact, all of Osijek-Baranja county possesses a wealth of untouched nature that makes for perfect daytrips. Sportsmen also love the area as it offers a host of fishing and hunting opportunities, from hunting birds to angling to deer hunting. There are 83 official hunting sites maintained by several hunting associations, all of which combine to form the Hunting Union of Osijek-Baranja County. In addition to these locations, there are also 14 statesponsored hunting areas. The county enjoys a rich hunting tradition and a wide array of game exists in the area for the able hunter. Big game like wild boar, deer and roe deer abound, along with smaller game like pheasant, quail, partridge and a wide variety of other birds. Throughout the hunting areas, there are cozy hunting lodges to which you can repair to plan your strategy or sample some local cooking before setting out again in the quest to bag some game. Need some further motivation? In 2001, a lucky hunter scored a trophy roe-buck in the Staro Petrovo Selo area. In order to start stalking your prey, you need to complete a safety course and then obtain a hunting license. Information about taking care of these formalities is available at Hunting Union of Osijek-Baranja County, J.Jurja Strossmayera 65a, tel. 36 95 92, www. lovacki-savez-osijek.hr. QOpen: Mon to Fri 07:00-14:00, Sat and Sun closed. Domestic bus schedule From Osijek Day 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234561234567 12345612345-7 1234567 1234561234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00 09:00 12:30 16:15 18:00 21:00 09:00 12:30 15:30 19:20 06:00 09:00 13:45 16:30 18:00 08:00 10:00 15:30 17:30 Arr. 05:20 06:30 03:45 07:15 10:35 14:05 17:50 05:15 06.00 10:05 13:35 16:35 20:25 06:45 09:45 14:45 17:15 02:30 12:20 14:00 20:40 21:20 City POREČ PULA (21.06-10.09.) RIJEKA ROVINJ (21.06-10.09.) SL. BROD SL. BROD SL. BROD SPLIT UMAG VINKOVCI VINKOVCI VINKOVCI VINKOVCI VUKOVAR VUKOVAR VUKOVAR VUKOVAR ZADAR ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB To Osijek Day 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345612345612345612345-1234567 1234561234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 20:50 20:00 22:30 19:00 10:45 14:15 18:20 20:15 20:00 06:35 10:30 14:10 19:10 08:40 11:45 16:50 20:00 23:00 07:30 10:00 16:00 19:00 Arr. 05:15 05:15 05:15 05:15 12:25 15:55 20:10 07:30 05:15 07:40 11:35 15:15 20:15 09:25 12:30 17:30 20:45 07:30 11:45 14:00 19:50 22:50 Eco adventure Zeleni Osijek L/ M-5, Opatijska 26F, tel. 56 51 80, fax 56 51 82, zeleni-osijek@os.t-com.hr, www.zeleni-osijek. hr/eng/index.php. Aside from taking an active interest in environmental protection, this assosiation also organizes interesting and engaging activities like photosafaris, boat rides along the Danube, nature education seminars and walks along the path in Zelena Greda eco-center. The ecocenter established by the association seeks to educate visitors and locals about ways to protect the delicate natural environments of Kopački Rit and Baranja. QOpen 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fishing For hundreds of years, the Drava River served as the main artery for the town of Osijek, supplying the necessary tools for maintaining a city: water, food and trade. Today, the river remains an integral part of the city in those areas, but is also a source of recreation and relaxation for the citizens of the region. One of the popular pastimes practiced on the banks of the Drava is fishing. There are a variety of fish that populate the waters of the river, including both crucian and carp. The portion of the Drava near Bilje was the site of a World Fishing Competition event in the summer of 2006. Kopački Rit, the natural gem of the surrounding area, also offers fishing opportunities. A large part of the park has been turned into a nature reserve, but there are areas that are under less strict supervision and the fish are fair game (provided you have the proper licenses and permissions)! There are over 40 species of fish swimming the waters of Kopački Rit, including pike, tench, bream, carp, catfish, pike-perch and perch. Information about fishing and hunting is available at the Swimming Divalta 6a, tel. 57 00 66. If you want to get your swim on, there are pools available at Gradski bazeni. The largest one is not olympic size, but still large enough to get some laps in. It’s about 1.8m deep. The recreational pool is about 1.3m deep and there’s a kiddie pool for the youngsters. If you feel like relaxing, take a dip in the jacuzzi, a break in the sauna, or a trip to the solarium to catch some artificial rays. The entry fee is 20kn for adults and 15kn for children. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. City pools (Gradski bazeni) J/K/L/M-4, Martina Osijek In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes. www.inyourpocket.com Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 28 direCtorY Emergency numbers Police Fire department Ambulance 92 93 94 osiJeK BArAnJA CountY Horses The paddock Đakovo (Đakovačka ergela) Augusta Šenoe 45, Đakovo, tel. 81 32 86/ 82 25 31, fax 82 25 30, ergela.djakovo@os.t-com.hr, www.ergela-djakovo. hr. While you are in Osijek you should also visit Đakovo and explore the history of the world-renowned Lipizzaner horses who make their home in the region. Characterized by their dark color, which eventually turns completely white later in life, Lipizzaner horses also possess several other characteristics that make them a unique breed. Inititally seen as a status symbol and used in farming and agriculture, the horses are now primarily used in racing and sport. The Lipizzaner tradition dates back to 1580, when the Austrian archduke Charles founded a stud farm in the village of Lipica in Slovenia. The first international recognition for the horses came when they were chosen by the Spanish Riding School in Vienna, a prestigious riding school where both horses and riders continue to learn the finer arts of riding to this day. Croatia’s cultural heritage. Lipizzaner horse teams can be seen at cultural events throughout eastern Croatia, including Đakovačke Vezove, a folklore festival of the regions of Slavonia and Baranja that takes place every July in Đakovo and is a showcase of traditional folk costumes, dancing and singing groups, and local customs. 29 Banks & Exchanges Raiffeisenbank Austria Kapucinska 34, tel. 22 98 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Slatinska banka Županijska 13, tel. 20 07 97, fax 20 01 41, www.slatinska-banka.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Slavonska banka Kapucinska 29, tel. 23 12 31, www. slavonska-banka.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 12:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank Hrvatske Republike 45, tel. 22 97 00, fax 22 97 29, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. English books Algoritam B-2, Trg slobode 7, tel. 21 43 10, www. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A algoritam.hr. Books and magazines in foreign languages. Hospital www.kbo.hr. General Hospital Josipa Huttlera 4, tel. 51 15 11, Individuals have free entry however organized groups with a paddock guide pay 20kn per adult and 10kn per child. It is preffered to pre book your visits to the paddock. Pharmacies All the pharmacies in general are open daily 07:00 to 20:00, Sat 07:30-15:00 and Sun closed. Centar and Park are the ones that have weekends and nights duties (including holidays) as followed: Centar, Trg Ante Starčevića 7, tel. 20 57 22, Sat 07:30-20:00, Sun 07:00-14:00 and night shifts all year long from 20:00-07:00. Park, Park kralja Petra Krešimira IV. 6, tel. 20 83 23, Sat 07:30-20:00 and Sun 07:00-20:00. Kopački rit Šandora Petefija 33, Bilje, tel. 75 23 20/ 75 08 55, fax 75 07 55, pp-kopacki-rit@os.t-com.hr, www.kopacki-rit. com. Just 10km northeast of Osijek, Kopački rit is one of the largest areas of wetland in Europe, and is something of a paradise for wading birds and their admirers. Declared a Nature Reserve (park prirode) in 1976, this 23000-hectare expanse of lakes, reeds, woodland and pasture is crisscrossed by dyke-top roads, making it easily accessible to the day-tripper. Kopački rit owes its uniquely soggy character to seasonal flooding, caused (usually in spring and autumn) when excess rainwater slows up the nearby Drava and Danube rivers, which begin to overflow their banks. When this happens, large areas of Kopački rit can remain under water for weeks or months, creating the perfect haven for water creatures and birdlife. There are also two permanent lakes, Sakadaš and Kopačko, each surrounded by reedy vegetation. Semi-sunken forests of white willow thrive in the low-lying parts of Kopački rit, while poplar, oak and elm cover the higher ground. The lakes support a huge population of carp, pike, catfish and perch, alongside an abundance of frogs, snails and insects. During the course of the year Kopački rit might be visited by as many as 285 bird species. Kopački rit Nature park (Park prirode Kopački rit) Police station Business connections Croatian Chamber of Economy - Osijek County Chamber Europske avenije 13, tel. 22 38 00, fax 22 38 24, hgkos@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Osijek County Chamber, tel. 22 38 52/ 22 38 00, fax 22 38 24, eicos@hgk.hr, www.euroinfo.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Police station B-3, Trg Lavoslava Ružičke 1, tel. 23 71 11. Traffic police is at the same address, tel. 23 71 12 Translators Ad hoc B-2/3, Stjepana Radića 12, tel. 21 55 00, adhoc@adhoc.hr, www.adhoc.hr. Translators for English, German, Italian, Russian, Cezch,... QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lingua A/B-3, Ivana Gundulića 5, tel. 20 15 15, lingua@ lingua.hr, www.lingua.hr. Translators for English, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Hungarian... QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Euro info Centre Relay Osijek Europske avenije 13, Culture Centres Cercle francais d’Osijek Europska avenija 10/1, tel. 20 72 84. Franch library is open Wed and Fri 18:00-20:00. Souvenirs Čočić gift shop A/B-3, Ivana Gundulića 9, tel. 21 00 00, cocicgiesler@net.hr, www.cocic.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Dry cleaners & Laundries - 12:00. Closed Sun. Petra A/B-3, Gundulićeva 34, tel. 21 07 17. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Vidra Republike Hrvatske 9, tel. 21 52 12. Laundry. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The Đakovo stud farm was founded by the bishops of Bosnia and Srijem, at the estate they were given by the HungarianCroatian King Koloman in 1239. Presumably the farm was officially made a stud farm in 1506, when the first mention of it appears in any historical texts. But it was not until 1806 that Lipizzan horses came to Đakovo. Fleeing from Napoleon’s army, the Lipica farm was given refuge in Đakovo and three Lipizzan stallions were added to the farm. During the time of Josip Juraj Strossmayer, Đakovo’s most revered bishop, the farm shifted almost exclusively to the breeding of Lipizzan horses when seven mares and one stallion from Lipica were added to the farm. This laid the foundations for the creation of the modern farm, which continues to be the most respected stud farm in Croatia. Currently operating in two locations, Pastuharna and Ivandvor, Đakovo’s s tu d farm i s repres en ta ti ve of Croatia’s excellent horse breeding tradition, making Đakovo’s Lipizzaner horses an important facet of Jadranka A-1/2, Županijska 6, tel. 20 07 06. Both laundry and dry cleaners. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 Blažeković candlemaker H/I/J-3, Reisnerova Sun. N QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Rukotvorine Županijska 15, tel. 21 22 17. Open: Mon to Fri 08:30-12:30 and 16:00-20:00, Sat 08:30-14:00, Closed Sun. 131, tel. 37 25 46, ranogajec.josip@gmail.com. Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 30 osiJeK BArAnJA CountY osiJeK BArAnJA CountY Agrotourism Baranjski dvori Šandora Petefija 61, Zmajevac, tel. 73 40 55/ 091 893 52 89, nadj.seoski.turizam@os.t-com.hr, www.baranjski-dvori.hr. If you happen to be in the village of Zmajevac and need a little rest and relaxation with a side of tasty homemade food, this cozy bed and breakfast will do the trick. The hospitable hosts make you feel right at home and it’s right in the perfect location to explore the area or the local wine roads. There are four rooms named after local women with thick walls and real oak beds that guarantee a good night’s sleep. Each room comes with its own bathroom. You should definitely call ahead to check availability. 150 kn per person. Q8 rooms (8 doubles €). hhh Crvendać Biljske satnije ZNG RH 5, Bilje, tel. 75 02 64/ 091 201 78 79; 099 692 75 28, pansion@crvendac.com, www.crvendac.com. Set in a well-tended garden, this lovely house offers clean bright rooms with laminated floors and shared WC/ shower facilities. A mood-enhancing red-and-white colour scheme runs through absolutely everything in the house - hence the name, which is Croatian for ‘robin red-breast’ The home-cooking is excellent and half- or full-board arrangements are well worth considering.150Kn per person B&B, 250Kn full board. Q rooms (1 double 3 €, 2 triples €). Mazur Kneza Branimira 2, Bilje, tel. 75 02 94/ 098 82 61 15, info@mazur.hr, www.mazur.hr. Friendly family house in the middle of Bilje offering simplyfurnished rooms, two of which are en-suite; the other two share a shower/WC in the hallway. Lovingly-restored old cupboards and wardrobes feature in a couple of the rooms. Breakfast is included. 150Kn per person B&B Sklepić Kolodvorska 58, Karanac, tel. 72 02 71/ 098 73 91 59, denis.sklepic@inet.hr, www.sklepic. hr. Eight kilometres east of Beli Manastir, this charming B&B occupies a lovingly-restored Baranja farmhouse, complete with red peppers hanging up to dry in the porch, and geese honking merrily in the yard. The rooms have modern bathrooms but attractive old-fashioned furnishings elsewhere, including some lovely bits of embroidery on the curtains and tablecloths. There’s a contemporary-style split-level studio apartment (sleeping up to 4) in an annexe across the yard that used to be a post office. 150Kn per person B&B. Q8 rooms (6 doubles €, 2 quads €). 31 By far the best way to see the park is to take a boat trip or opt for a jeep tour with a local guide. It’s important to ring the visitor’s centre in enquire about these in advance rather than just turning up on spec - the boat trips in particular don’t depart at a regular time every day of the week. The boat trip on Orao I (“Eagle One”) goes along Lake Sakadaš along the Čonakut canal to Lake Kopačko. Along the route you’ll see sunken forests of white willow, crowded in spring with cormorants and geese and in autumn with migrating ducks. Additional attractions in the vicinity of the reserve include the village of Kopačevo just southeast of the Visitor’s Centre. It’s a wonderfully preserved example of a typical Slavonian settlement, with neat rows of picturesque singlestorey farmhouses, many with strings of red paprika hanging outside to dry. The Zelena Žaba restaurant in Kopačevo is one of the best places in the region to eat fiš perkelt, the dangerously spiced stew comprising huge chunks of catfish or pike-perch. Of these, 141 species nest here regularly, the rest are spring and summer migrants. It’s the fish-eating birds that flourish most, with herons, cormorants, white-tailed sea eagles and egrets congregating around lakes Sakadaš and Kopačko. Main en tran ce to th e Reserve is at the Visitors Centre (Prijemni centar), a traditional-style thatched hut just north of the village of Kopačevo, where you pa y an en tran c e fe e (40Kn, 20Kn kids on Sun, 55-60Kn, 45Kn kids on other days)and receive an English-language information leaflet. The park is easy to get to: if you’re driving, head north from Osijek as far as the village of Bilje, turn right at the main crossroads, and follow the signs to “Park prirode Kopački rit”. There’s a cycle path running alongside the Osijek-Bilje road, making it a pleasant two-wheel jaunt. Those with no wheels whatsoever will have to content themselves with catching an Osijek-Bilje bus (every 30-50 min from Vukovarska cesta) and walking the remaining 4km to the Visitor’s Centre. Once beyond the Vistor’s Centre you’re free to explore the Reser ve on your own, proceeding along the eastbound dyke for 2km before arriving at the shores of Lake Sakadaš, site of a partially sunken forest where you’re likely to spot cormorants and herons. From here you really need a car to get the best out of the place. About 8km north of Lake Sakadaš are the oak forests of Tikveš, thronging with wild boar, deer, and secretive black storks. In the middle of the forest is the palatial, red-brick Tikveš Hunting Lodge (Dvorac Tikveš), built for Archduke Franz Ferdinand in the nineteenth century, taken over by the Serbian royal family after World War I, and subsequently used by communist leader Josip Broz Tito. Perhaps appropriately for a location long associated with spraying the local fauna with gunshot, Tikveš now hosts conservation-oriented seminars organized by the European Environmental Centre (Europski centar za okoliš). The area west of Tikveš is largely taken up with meadowland and commercial fish-breeding ponds. Returning towards the Visitor’s Centre this way you’ll pass the Kormoran restaurant, famous for carp roasted on a stick. The restaurant has got a lovely rustic interior, although it can get packed with coach parties at times. Palaces Mailath Palace (Dvorac Mailath) Donji Miholjac. Heading back to Osijek via Bilje you can’t fail to notice the handsome ochre palace at the eastern end of Bilje village, built at the end of the 17th century to serve as a hunting lodge for the greatest of the Austrian army’s commanders, Prince Eugene of Savoy. The palace is now occupied by the administration offices of the Kopački rit Nature Reserve, but you’re free to stroll through the main gate and admire the beautifully proportioned courtyard. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Thirty kilometres northwest of Valpovo, on an ox-bow spur of the River Drava, Donji Miholjac is another town which fell under the sway of the Hilleprand von Prandaus in the eighteenthcentury. Ana Hilleprand von Prandau built a long, single-storey arcaded pied-a-terre in the centre of town in 1818, inherited 70 years later b y Maila th von Székhely, when the male Hilleprand von Prandau line came to an end. Mailath von Szék h el y’s enlargement of the palace wi th th e frivolous addition of mock-Tudor turrets www.inyourpocket.com Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 32 osiJeK BArAnJA CountY and medieval-chateau towers, makes Donji Miholjac one of the most eccentric country houses in this part of Europe. There’s no museum in the palace, but the overgrown neighbouring park provides a good opportunity to stretch your legs. Pejačević Palace (Dvorac Pejačević) Pejačevićev trg 5,Našice, tel. 61 34 14, www.mdc.hr/nasice. Located 50km northwest of Osijek on the road to Virovitica, Našice is the kind of peaceful one-street town that you’ll find all over Slavonia. Slap bang in the middle of town is the Pejačević Palace (Dvorac Pejačević), a deliciously custardcoloured structure framed by a splendid pair of bulbous green towers. The palace gets its name from the Pejačević family, granted ownership of the town in 1732 in reward for their services to the Habsburg court during the anti-Ottoman wars of the late seventeenth century. The Palace, built in 1812 and modified half a century later, is probably the best-preserved aristocratic seat in Slavonia, and the only one whose interior is regularly open to the public. Inside, a grandiose double staircase curves its way up to the first-floor Regional Museum, a large part of which is devoted to Dora Pejačević (1885-1923), Croatia’s first female composer. Dora’s grand piano takes centre stage, surrounded by sepia family photographs, and a milky marble bust of a veiled female corpse that the moody composer kept in her room. positioned around the balustrade. Round the back the church, the main monastery building harbours an exhibition of reliquaries, priestly vestments and old church manuscripts (Mass is daily at 07:00 and 18:30, Sun at 07:00, 09:00, 11:00 and 18:30). The hotel Park, next to the palace at Pejačević trg 4, has a large restaurant which offers inexpensive lunchtime specials in the meat-and-potatoes line. Valpovo. Heading nor th east from N a š i c e b r i n gs you swi f tl y in Valpovo, a market town which grew up aroun d t h e medieval castle of the Morović clan, The castle was strengthened by the Ottoman Turks, who left the red-brick, horseshoe-shaped fortifications in pretty good condition when they were ridden out of town by the Austrians in 1687. In 1721 the Habsburg court awarded the town to the Tyrolean family of Hilleprand von Prandau, who governed Valpovo as absentee landlords until Josip Ignatz Hilleprand von Prandau (1749-1816) decided to abandon the hurly-burly of Viennese life and settled here for good. Using the existing fortress as the nucleus of his palace, Josip Ignatz added a neoclassical façade topped by a clock tower, whose creamy-pink colour scheme is still in fabulous condition. Passing through the tunnel-like gate beneath the clocktower brings you into an attractive cobbled courtyard overlooked by a sandcastle-shaped medieval tower and a whitewashed gothic chapel. The Valpovo Regional Museum (Muzej Valpovštine), based in one part of the courtyard, don’t as yet have a permanent display open to the public, but they are working on it. They might be able to open up the tower and the chapel for you if you make an appointment in advance (031/650-639). In front of the palace a stone bridge leads across the former moat to the castle park, a perfectly preserved 19th century landscaped affair rich in deciduous trees. osiJeK BArAnJA CountY Wine For literally thousands of years in the regions of Osijek-Baranja County, grapes have been cultivated to produce that everpopular and satisfying beverage known as wine. The Baranja region’s name itself is a hint as to its wine growing abilities: in Hungarian, boranya means “wine mother.” Obviously, it was given this moniker because it was particularly suited to growing grapes; that fact remains true to this day. The area receives just the right amount of rainfall every year and has the ideal average temperature to enable those yummy little fruits to grow (and get squashed later on). One of the ways to get acquainted with some of Croatia’s finest wines is to take a trip along the wine road. The wine road runs through Baranja district along Banska kosa hill “Mons aureus”, or golden hill, Đakovo district, Erdut district and Ferćanci district a route that will drop you by renowned wine merchants who will do their best to convince you of the superiority of their liquid wares. The growing popularity of the region’s wine has made the wine road an oft-visited attraction for the area. Consequently, the cellars and the wine keep getting better and better. It’s time to start tasting! You can visit the cellars every day (except in the period of grape harvest) but be sure to call first for arrangment. 33 Ferićanci District Feravino Ferićeva 16, Ferićanci, tel. 60 32 13, www.feravino.hr. Prandau - Normann Palace (Dvorac Prandau - Normann) Đakovo District 72 00/ 83 72 04, fax 83 72 01, djakovacka-vina@ os.htnet.hr, www.djakovacka-vina.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Biskupija Đakovo Strossmayerov trg 6, Đakovo, tel. 80 22 06/ 81 19 71. Baranja District Kolar wine cellar, Maršala Tita 141, Suza tel. 73 31 84; 73 30 06. Gerštmajer wine cellar, Šandora Petefija 31, Zmajevac, tel. 091 351 55 86 Josić wine cellar, Planina 194, Zmajevac, tel. 098 25 26 57 Čočić wine cellar, Ružina 20, Zmajevac, tel. 091 120 05 69 Belje wine cellars, Šandora Petefija 2, Kneževi Vinogradi, tel. 73 09 22 Đakovačka vina Mandićevac bb, Drenje, tel. 83 www.inyourpocket.com The museum curator will gladly play a tape of Pejačiević’s works as you look round (and there are CDs for sale should you like what you hear). Two other talented locals who get whole rooms to themselves are sculpture Hinko Juhn (1891-1940), represented here by some sensuous female nudes, and Izidor Kršnjavi (1845-1927), a painter and art critic who had a profound influence on the Zagreb art scene in the years prior to World War I. Watch out for Vlaho Bukovac’s striking portrait of Kršnjavi, dressed up in striking orangey-red tunic and coat. QOpen: Mon and Fri 08:00-15:00, Tue to Thu 08:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-12:00, Sun closed. Admission: 12Kn, 7Kn kids. Behind the palace stretches a beautiful landscaped park, with a verdant tree-scattered slope falling away towards a kidney-shaped lake popular with picnickers. The Pejačević hunting lodge (which is large enough to be a palace in its own right) is off to the left of the park’s main slope - it now serves as a school. Over on the other side of the street from the palace, the Monastery Church of St Anthony of Padua (Crkva svetog Antuna Padovanskog), Kralja Tomislava 1, (tel: 61 32 05) is a medieval Fransiscan church which fell derelict during the Ottoman occupation, and was rebuilt in flamboyant Baroque style when the monks returned in the early eighteenth century. There’s a host of vivaciously ornamented Baroque altars inside, and an ornate pulpit with statues of the evangelists Erdut District IPK Erdutski vinogradi Trg Branka Hercega 1, Erdut, tel. 59 65 55/ 099 218 61 09, www.erdutskivinogradi.hr. Osijek In Your Pocket 2008 34 street register A Adamovića, Ive B-2 Alanska G-2 Aljmaška J/K-5 Andrića, Jospia B-3 Ariša F-5 B Bakarska L-4 Banova M-3 Banjalučka E-4 Bapska M-4 Baranjska L-3 Bašćanska M-4 Bednjanska G-5 Belišćanska E-4 Belomanastirska D-4 Biđska H-5 Bihačka K-5 Bilogorska G-2 Biljska cesta K/L-1/2 Biogradska M-4 Bistrička H-5 Biševska L-4 Bjelinskog, Brune E-3/4 Bjelolasićka F-2 Bjelovarska E-4 Blažića, Franje Antuna H-2 Blok centar II A/B-2/3 Bokokotorska L-5 Borova F-5/6 Bosanska L-3 Bösendorfera, Josipa D-2 Bosutska H-4 Bosutsko naselje H-4 Boškovića, Ruđera D-2 Bračka L/M-4 Breznička I-6 Brijunska L-4 Brlić-Mažuranić, Ivane G-2 Brodska K-5 Bunska H-5 Buzetska L-5 C Cara Hadrijana E-2 Cesarića, Dobriše C-3 Cetinska I-4 Ciglarska M-2 Creska L-4 Crikvenička M-4 Crkvena M-3 Cvjetkova M-3 Č Čevapovića, Grgura B-2 Čikolska C-4 Čvrsnička G-2 Ć Ćelijska K-5 D Dalmatinska F-3 K-5 Daruvarska Delnička K-5 Divalta, Martina J/K/L/M-4 Donjodravska obala M-2 H-5 Dragonjska Dravska H-5 L-2 Dravska obala Drinska B/C-4 Drniška K-5 A-2 Dubrovačka Dugog otoka L-5 Dunavska B-4 Đ L-5 Đakovačka Đakovština A-3 E Erdutska K-4 C/D/E-2 Europska avenija F Fakultetska D-2 Firingera, Kamila D-2 Frankopana, Franje Krste L/M-4 Franjevačka D-2 G Gacka I-5 Gluha M-2 Gojkovića, Jovana L-3 Gornjodravska o. H-2 Gospička K-5 Gradačka L-5 Grmić M-2 Gundulića, Ivana A/B-3 Gupca, Matije M-3 H Hebranga, Andrije G-3 Hengla, Vjekoslava B-2 Hercegovačka L-3/4 Hötzendorfa, Huge G-3 Hrvatske republike A/B-2 Humska L-5 Huttlera, Josipa L-4 Hvarska L-4 I Ilirska G-2 Iločka K-5 Ivanovačka K-5 J Jablanova F-5 Jadranska A-4 Jadrovska H/I-5 Jägera, Lorenza B-2 Jagića, Vatroslava D-2 Jahorinska G-3 Jankovačka F-3 Jovanovića, Zmaja Jove M-2/3 K Kalnička G-3 Kanižlića, Antuna G-2 Kapucinska B-2 Karašićka G-5 Kardinala A. Stepinca C-2/3 Kašića, Bartula C-3 Kaštelanska M-4/5 Katančića, M. Petra D-2 Keršovanija, Otokara C-3 Kišpatića, Mije M-2 Klaića, Vjekoslava D-2 Klanac H-2 Kneza Borne F-1 Kneza Trpimira D-2/3/4 Kninska K-5 Kolodvorska F-1/2/3 Koranska H/I-4 Korčulanska L-4 Kornatska L-5 Kovačića, Ivana Gorana K-3/4 F-2 Kozjačka Krajna G-3 Kralja Petra Svačića E-3/4 Kranjčevića, S. S. F/G/H-3/4 B-4 Krapinsko naselje Krbavska B-4 Krčka L-4 D-2 Krežme, Franje Krndije F-2 Krstova M-3 Kršnjavoga, Izidora G/H-3 D-2 Kuhača, Franje Kupska A-4 Kutinska K-5 Kvarnerska L-5 L Labinska L-5 Lađarska M-2 Lanosavića, Marijana M-4 Laslovačka K-5 Lastovska L-4 Ledine L-4 Lička G-3 Lipička K-5 Livadića, Ferde E-3 Lokrumska M-4 Lonjska G-5 Lopudska L-4 Lošinjska M-5 Lovranska L-5 Lučki prilaz B-2 LJ Ljubljanska K/L-4 M Makarska M-4 Markovića, Franje D-2 Medulinska M-5 Mihanovića, Antuna I/J-3 Miholjačka L-4 Miljacka I-5 Mirna H-5 Mljetska L-4 Mosorska F-2 Mostarska M-3 Motovunska L-5 Mrežnička H-5 Muckea, Franje L-3 Murska C-4 Murterska L-5 N Naselje Ivana Česmičkog K/L-3/4 Naselje Miroslava Krleže L-4 Našička G-3 Našičko naselje G-4 Neretvanska B-4 Neumana, Dragutina B-2 Nova ulica K-2 Novogradiška K-4 Nuštarska K-4 O Olibska M-4 Opatijska L/M-5 Orebićka L-5 Orljavska B-4 P Pakračka K-5 Palagruška M-4 Pampas G-2 Papuk gore G-3 Paradžik, Ante G-2 Park kneza Branimira C-2 Park kralja Držislava C/D-2 Park kralja P Krešimira IV C-2 . Park kraljice K. Kosača L-3 L/M-4 Paška Pašmanska L-5 M-4 Pazinska Pejačevića, Pavla A-1/2 L-5 Pelješačka Peradarnik G-6 Perivoj kralja Tomislava C-2 Petöfija Sandora F-1/2 Pinterović, Danice D-2 L-5 Piranska Platačka F-3 Plitvička M-4 Plivska H-4/5 F-2 Plješevačka Podgoračka G-3 Podravska G-2 Podvinje H-4 G-3 Poljski put Porečka L-5 Posavskog, Ljudevita F-2 Požeška K-4 Prenjska F-3 Prijedorska K-5 Primorska M-2 Princa E. Savojskog L-2 Prolaz Carla Bende A-2 Prolaz Josipa Benešića H-3 Prolaz Josipa Leovića A-3 Prolaz Lorenza Jägera B-2 Prolaz Matice hrvatske B-2 Prolaz Vanje Radauša B-2 Prominska F/G-2 Psunjska F/G-3 Pulska L-5 Pustara Cimer L/M-6 Pustara Šeper F-4 R Radičevića, Branka L-3 Radića, Stjepana B-2/3 Ramska A-4 Rapska M-4 Raška I-6 Reihl-Kira, Josipa L-4/5 Reisnera, Adama H/I/J-3 Ribarska A-1 Riječka L/M-3/4 Rijeke Dubrovačke H-5 Rovinjska L-5 Ružina G/H-2/3 S Sanska I-5 Sarajevska M-3 Sarvaška K-5 Savska B-4 Senjska M-4 Sisačka K-5 Sjenjak D-4 Skopska K-5 Slatinska K-5 Slaz G-2 Sljemenska F-3 Snježnička F-3 Solarski trg H-2 Splavarska G/H-2 Splitska L-4 Srijemska L-4/5 Stadionsko naselje J-5 Starigradska L-5 Stonska M-5 Strma G-2 Strossmayera, Josipa Jurja F/G/H-2 Subotička K-4/5 Sunčana B-2/3 Sutlanska A-4 Svete Ane A-2/3 Svetog Josipa Radnika B-4 Svetog Leopolda Bogdana Mandića F/G/H-4/5 M-3 Svetog Petka Svetog Roka H-2/3 Š Šamačka A/B-1 Šetalište kard. F Šepera . B/C-1/2 Šetalište Petra Preradovića B-2 Šibenička M-4 Šimića, Antuna Branka M-3 Širokobriješka K-4 B-2 Školska Šokačka F-2 Šoltanska M-4 T M-3 Tijardovića, Ive Tovarnička L-5 Trebižatska I-5 Trg Ante Starčevića A-2 Trg Augusta Šenoe C-3 Trg bana J. Jelačića M-3 Trg baruna Trenka C-3 Trg Ivana Pavla II A-2 Trg Josipa Runjanina M-4 Trg Jurja Križanića D-2 Trg Lava Mirskog B-2 Trg Lavoslava Ružičke B-3 Trg Ljudevita Gaja B-2 Trg Nikole Tesle M-2 Trg slobode B-2 Trg Svetog Trojstva D-2 Trg Vatroslava Lisinskog D-2 Trogirska M-4 Trpanjska L-5 Tvornička M-4 Tvrđavica H/I/J-1 U Učka F-3 Ugljanska L-5 Ujevića, Tina G-3 Ukrinska H-5 Uske njive K-5 V Valpovačka K-5 Varaždinska L-4 Vatrogasna K-5 Velaluška L-5 Veličanska H-5 Vijenac Augusta Cesarca G-2 Vijenac Dinare F-3 Vijenac G. Zobundžije H-2 Vijenac I. Meštrovića D-3 Vijenac Ivana Mažuranića C-2 Vijenac Jakova Gotovca B-2 Vijenac Josipa Kozarca G-2 Vijenac Kraljeve Sutjeske B-4 Vijenac Ljube Babića H-3 Vijenac Medvednice F-3 Vijenac Murse L-3 Vijenac Paje Kolarića B-2 Vijenac Petrove gore F-3 Vijenac Slavka Kolara M-3 Vijenac Stanka Vraza A-3 Vijenac Vladimira Nazora G-2 Vijenac Vlahe Bukovca L-3 Vinkovačka H/I-4/5/6 Virovitička K-5 Viška L-4 Voćinska J/K-5 Vodenička L-3 Vrbaska B-4 Vrt Jagode Truhelke B-2 Vukanska H-4 Vukovarska E-3 W A-2 Waldingera, Adolfa Wilsona, Woodrowa J-4/5 Z Zadarska A-2 L-3/4 Zagorska Zagrebačka J-3 K-4 Zajca, Ivana Zaostroška L-5 L-4 Zlarinska G-1 Zoološki vrt Zrinske gore F-2 Zrinskog, Nikole Šubića K-4 Zrinjevac B-3 B-4 Zrmanjska Zvečevska F-3 Ž Žumberačka F-2 A-1/2 Županijska Osijek In Your Pocket allery allery allery allery allery allery