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Dubrovnik | Dubrovnik Neretva County | Islands

Lastovo
Lastovo is not furthest away from coast – that honour goes to Vis – but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours. Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise.
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban life.
Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” – the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers.
With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. Yachties far and wide religiously attend Konoba Triton at Zaklopatica, known for working magic with fresh fish and local capers.
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair. [...]


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Mljet - Odysseus’ isle

Getting There and Around
 
These days regular and express ferries provide services to and from the mainland; Dubrovnik – Sobra (daily connections from Dubrovnik and Pelješac). Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran. Transportation to the island is mostly provided by Jadrolinija ferries. Adding to that is the extra twice weekly ferry service from Rijeka – Dubrovnik – Bari.
Mljet is only 8km away from the peninsula of Pelješac, 18km from Korčula and 30km from Dubrovnik. There are a number of harbour ports in Mljet. Polače is its largest and main port of call in the north. Other harbours include Okuklje, Luka Prožura, Sobra, Kozarica and Pomena which has daily connections to Dubrovnik (watch out for reefs and shallow water), and Lokve or Gonoturska port where you can throw anchor just before the entry canal toward the Veliko jezero. Sounds of Mljet: A breeze brushing through pine boughs ... the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence.Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and less developed islands, with limited ferry service, it lacks the kind of mass tourism of much of the Dalmatian coast and some other more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts, discos. One might hope it never will be.And yet, Mljet isn’t that hard to reach, if you try. By catamaran, it’s as close as an hour from Dubrovnik. Ferries from Dubrovnik, are slower but perhaps more appropriate for a leisurely visit to the island (and making a stopover in Šipan) take a couple pleasant hours. Another ferry connects the island with the Pelješac Peninsula.Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning quality waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3 km wide and 37 km making attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131 km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.”  Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet back into deep valleys sheltering
ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960.The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey) because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru).The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The best  preserved sites are located on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko Jezero, and the fort of Vodica near Babino Polje.The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci.
 
The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on the western end of the mountain for about another 300 years, until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ, between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and arrows, was discovered in 1938.
 
In 1151, Prince Desa of the Herzegovinian kingdom of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia. Their arrival saw the construction of a church and grand monastery (1177-1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero.
 
Ragusa (later called Dubrovnik), acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410, however, when Ragusa, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet. Ragusa held the island until the dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808.
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The Elafiti islands - Koločep, Lopud and Šipan
These tiny islands – the first two car-free – are fantastic places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of island life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million times more refreshing!
Koločep and Lopud are tiny – you can walk all around them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the architectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family-run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti islands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many churches and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and the popular local ball game “picigin”. Most of Lopud’s Šunj beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a naturist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part.
Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, and a few tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, taking a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka has a couple of excellent restaurants: good home cooking at Konoba kod Marka, and Mediterranean fusion bites in a fine old palace at stylish Trabakula. There’s a string of tiny bays where you can bathe almost completely undisturbed.
Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands aren’t really off the beaten track – there are several hotels used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on. [...]


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Korčula
Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveler, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. It's well worth a few days stay and a perfect place to recharge your batteries.
Things to see and do: The best way to enjoy Korčula is to be without a plan. It doesn't take long to wander through the old town where there are many opportunities for shutterbugs. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance.
The town museum and the local galleries can be fitted into a casual morning stroll. For a culture fix during the evening, check out the Moreška sword dance, originally performed across the Mediterranean since the 12th century, it’s still very much alive and a proud Korčulan tradition.
If you are looking for more of an active holiday, you can book kayak and snorkeling trips or rent bicycles from any of the tourist agencies in town. Trekking tours are also available. For those looking to go a little bit deeper, talk to the nice English couple that set up Dupin Diving center near the Hotel Bon Repos.
You also can't go wrong renting a scooter or bike and heading towards the village of Lumbarda where you'll find an actual sandy beach reachable through picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else.
If the summer heat gets so overbearing that even a bathing suit is too much to take, jump in a water taxi to the nearby island of Badija, home to an old Franciscan monastery, where skinny dipping, although not obligatory, is welcome.
Restaurants: If you are looking for a bite out in the old town of Korčula, there are many restaurants to choose from.
Some highlights include: Mareta, run by a friendly Croatian/German couple, offers a tasty traditional menu with a twist; Marinero, two fisherman brothers who serve some of the freshest of seafood in town; Morski Konjić 1, an intimate, traditional konoba well known for its grill and Dalmatian fare; Adio Mare, a local landmark; and Aborda, located in the ACI marina, offers a creative Croatian menu and top notch service. Those looking for a decent pizza, should check out Leut, Fortuna and Agava. Under no circumstances should you miss Smiljana’s cookies at Cukarin, they are unique as the island itself.
For something different, head to Fresh, the first wraps and smoothies bar in Croatia. Serving up tastes from Asia, Mexico and the Med, Fresh also offers a free book exchange and foreign newspapers and magazines.
Further a field, you’ll find some culinary gems. Highly recommended are the following: Grubinjac, on the road between Korčula and Zrnovo, has lovely dining terraces surrounded by olive trees and old stonewalls. Great place to feast while catching the sun going down;Mate in Pupnat serves up great food, wine, and peace.The menu is unique, their goat cheese with wild fennel tortellini will leave you in awe;Maslina en route to Lumbarda is popular with locals for a variety of well prepared dishes served by its friendly owners; and last but not least, Zure in Lumbarda is known for a fantastic homemade pomegranate alcohol and great seafood.
Nightlife: While Korčula is not known for its nightlife you will be pleased to kick back for sunset cocktails at Tramonto or Massimo. Dno Dna is a funky bar that you would expect to find in places like Tokyo or New York. Small with a crazy interior designer, you'll find interesting fixtures (including the many locals who frequent the place) and friendly bar staff. Fresh offers a great 2 for 1 happy hour. Later in the evening, mingle with local youth at Dos Locos before hitting Gaudi, a disco located in one of the oldest arsenals on the Adriatic and one of the only places where you can dance until early morning birds start chirping.
Places to Stay: Korčula Backpacker (Korčula town, Korčula) Run by a wild young South African/Croatian, this is possibly the top hostel in Croatia. Situated in a lovely restored villa, it is a party place where you may find that your stay keeps getting longer and longer. Beware the beer bongs. [...]


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