Take a drive south from Opatija along the coast road lined with villas and stunning vistas, and you come to the pretty resort of Mošćenička Draga. On a ridge just above, you’ll see the village of Mošćenice. Don’t miss the chance to take the road up. Mošćenice was also an independent community within the Kastav estates, and behind its stone gate (where there once is thought to have been a drawbridge) you’ll find a number of listed monuments. On the site of a fort built before Roman times, a fortified Medieval settlement began to grow. Inside is a beautifully preserved maze of narrow streets in a circular arrangement. The bell tower, which you can see from miles around, belongs to the 17th century Parish Church of St Andrew, which got a baroque facelift courtesy of the Jesuits in 18th century. The tiny church of St Bartholomew (1628) and votive church of St Sebastian (1506) both have unusual covered porches. In town, just behind the gate, the square building acted as a fort, and the open-sided loggia was the place for both administration and socialising. House number 60 houses a stone olive press in superb condition, also a protected monument, and you can visit the Ethnological Museum to get a feel for the rural life of the inhabitants - tel. (051) 73 75 51. Just outside the walls is a pilgrim path, the Calvary, dotted with 18th century shrines. This is where you’ll get the best view.

If you get hungry while you’re there, we recommend you drop into the excellent family restaurant Johnson (on the road back down towards Opatija, see “Where to eat”). Otherwise, drop into Mošćenička Draga and enjoy a bathe on the lovely beach or a snack in one of the beachside cafes.

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This sleepy little fishing village is the oldest of the chain of settlements that form the wider environs of Opatija. Its history dates back to the 15th century, when it was the port of the manorial estates of Kastav. Around the sheltered little port, named “Mandrać”, is a cluster of simple stone houses that scramble up the hillside in an intimate muddle.

The fishing tradition is one of the reasons why Volosko has long been famous for outstanding fish restaurants. It truly is an unmissable destination for lovers of good food. On the waterfront, restaurant Plavi Podrum is well known for excellence in preparing fish, for the breadth of the menu and perfection in the selection and presentation of fine wines. Amfora, a few minutes’ stroll due east, is among the largest fish restaurants in Croatia, and also very high in quality.

If there is one complaint about the range of restaurants in Croatia, it must be about variety, not quality. And the opening of Le Mandrać in Volosko last year, it seems, will be a step in the direction of changing that. From the very first glance, you can see that this is something unusual. A simple glass conservatory built onto the front of one of the original fisherman’s cottages is executed in a startlingly modern style. Glass panes that open wide clearly show passers by the owner’s sense for clean, modern design.

You can’t read a book by its cover, of course, but a reading of the menu will also afford a few surprises. Not wishing to throw out the baby with the bathwater, high quality Croatian ingredients remain the foundation of the kitchen, but recipes are given zest with influences from French, Italian and Oriental cuisine – lime, ginger, tempura. You can eat à la carte, or choose from a slow food menu of four or nine courses, accompanied by the sommelier’s recommendation of wines by the glass. Extremely creative, prepared with passion and finesse, your meal at Le Mandrać is sure to be an experience to remember for years to come.

Apart from the gourmet delicacies in store, Volosko has a great deal to offer. The coastal path takes you through Opatija and beyond to Lovran. As you climb the hill away from the waterside, the buildings become more imposing. During the 18th and 19th centuries, wealthy sea captains built their homes here. There’s a beautiful and unusual baroque church, St Annas, and as you walk further out of town, you come to fine villas and summer residences. The architecture is rather similar to that of Opatija but on a smaller scale, and without the intrusion of commercialism that is the fate of larger resorts. Volosko is a magnet for artists, and there are a number of fine galleries if you are not inspired to pick up a paintbrush yourself.

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