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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Summer 2008 Sizzling Split Hot tips to delight Step back in time Enter a world of history and culture N°1 - free copy www.inyourpocket.com ContentS 3 Contents Arriving in Split Where the action is 5 6 8 12 16 20 22 24 29 Glossary Don’t get caught with your trousers down Culture & Events Renaissance art to island reggae Where to stay Home sweet home Restaurants Enjoy the riches Cafés Where to watch the world go by Nightlife Join the beautiful people What to see Those sights explained Mail & Phones “I just called to say I luuuurve you…” 31 33 44 45 46 47 Sport The big blue Getting around An explorer’s bible Shopping Take a little piece of my heart Business Directory Banks and stuff Lifestyle Directory Important numbers Split Dalmatia County Out and about around the city Maps & Index Street index County map City map City centre map Country map 60 60 62 65 66 Summer 2008 4 ForeWorD Hello and welcome to the lovely city of Split and the newest addition to the In Your Pocket Croatia family. With this first edition, Split joins Croatian cities Zagreb (bi-monthly), Rijeka (bi-annual), Zadar (annual), Dubrovnik (annual) and Osijek (annual) and numerous other European cities covered by In Your Pocket guides – the perfect companion to make your trip a success. Split is a city with an absolutely fascinating historical tradition, from the living museum of Diocletian’s palace to the various political and personal intrigues that led up to the creation of the city as we see it today. However, we know that history isn’t the only important thing to consider while visiting a new city. There’s an entire cultural tradition waiting for you to explore, whether it’s sampling Dalmatian cuisine or shopping and trading with the locals in Split’s famous outdoor market. We’ve researched plenty of restaurants, bars, cafés and nightlife spots for you to enjoy while you learn about the past and glean a thing or two about the present in this intriguing part of the world. arriVing in Split Europe In Your Pocket international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 157 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that’s that! One important note for travelers this year is the fact that the A-1 highway is relatively new, so there’s a lot of work being done. The two longest tunnels, Mala Kapela and sv. Rok, will be under construction, making for possible delays as people come and go during the busy summer season. From Slovenia: Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. From Italy: Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje. 5 By boat Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port will cost you 3kn and operates around the clock. There’s a supermarket that’s open from 06:30 - 20:30 daily and a few cafés and bars that are open according to season and demand. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes. By plane Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 22:30. Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. If you feel like a drink or a bite before your flight, Restaurant and Café Ikar operates from 06:00 - 22:30 and has an excellent view of the sea and palm trees swaying in the breeze. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (open 06:30 - 20:30 daily) and the post office (07:30 - 21:00 weekdays, 07:30 - 14:30 Saturday) both operate exchange offices and can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna dalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets. Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall. Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or, if you arrived on a Croatia Airlines flight, airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus #37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 15kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Croatia Airlines buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you just next to the old town for 30kn. Cover story The towering Cathedral of Saint Domnius is a city icon. The cathedral's interior has a round shape with four semi-round and four rectangular recess'. Diocletian's sarcophagus was once in the centre which was later smashed into pieces. Today, th e present day cathedral is still a place of worship for the faith ful, regular mass is held and a glowing procession lights up the city on its feast day. Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender, and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana, Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and you have a full set. Elsewhere arround the Pocket Empire there are new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia), Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities this summer. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Split In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). By bus Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window and information desk both operate twenty-four hours. The international ticket office operates 24h. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 00:00 - 24:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 2,20kn per hour, per piece of luggage. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station. Split In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-856X ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb Cover Gordan Karabogdan Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Editor Assistant: Kristina Kovač Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Chad Phillips, Tocher Mitchell Researcher Anita Piplović Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Split In Your Pocket team, Split Tourist Board Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Krešimir Grgić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Account Manager Mirna Cindrić By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:30 - 22:30 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. By car From Zagreb: So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 6 BaSiCS Climate 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J F MAM J J A S O N D BaSiCS Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm 100 75 50 25 0 7 Tourist information Tourist information centre Peristil bb tel / fax 34 56 06, Riva Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 12, Riva Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda, 7 ticsplit@st.t-com.hr Tourist Board of Split Trg Republike 2, tel 34 86 00, www.visitsplit.com Split & Dalmatia County Tourist Board Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel / fax 49 00 32 / 49 00 33, info@ dalmatia.hr, www.dalmatia.hr Health & Safety The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless. Policija (Police 92) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times. Roads Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you. The Inhabitants of Split To the outside visitor, the citizens of Split – referred to as Splićani – are one distinct group of people. There are, however, a few distinct groups that exist in the social landscape. The first, and oldest, group of people are the fetivi, the people descended from Split’s old urban families. They are characterized, stereotypically, by their unique way of talking, which is considered to be very fast. Split’s fetivi are complimented by the boduli, people originally from the islands of the Adriatic who, again stereotypically, have a reputation for frugality, quick thinking and keeping to themselves. Relatively recently, these two groups were joined by the vlaji, who migrated to Split from other parts of Dalmatia and now populate the high-rises that encircle the city. The vlaji are the rough and tumble survivors, accustomed to hardships and the rougher side of life. The distinctions between these groups, however, are fading fast, especially considering the arrival of the latest social group to emerge in Split, namely an influx of immigrants from Hercegovina who came seeking a new life in Croatia’s second largest city. Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. 01 459 13 33, www.mfin.hr. Public Toilets There are several spots that are labeled as having a public toilet around the city, but not all of them are open. The safest option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while having a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja Tomislava. It should be said that some of our female staff members felt a slight hint of sexual discrimination, as a cabin in the public WC runs 4kn, while those of us able to stand and do their business will only have to pay 1kn. So much for gender equality. Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances. Smoking Cigarettes: public menace or personal right? The debate rages on in countries throughout the world, but not so much in Croatia at the present time. If you’re used to restaurants, cafés and clubs being completely smoke-free environments, prepare for a bit of a change when you arrive in Split. Cigarette Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Split (April 2001): 188.694 Split County (April 2001): 463.676 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. National holidays January 1 January 6 March 24 May 1 May 22 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day smoke wafts freely through virtually every bar, restaurant or café you’ll visit. There are a few restaurants that have non-smoking sections so it never hurts to ask, but don’t count on having the luxury of fresh-smelling clothing for long. Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it? www.inyourpocket.com Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 8 Culture & eVentS 03 - 05.07. Entertainment Musical Festival Split 2008 This year, the festival presents wonderful achievements in music which were prepared for the festival’s 48th edition. Prokurative 04 - 26.07. The 42nd Festival of Dalamtian Klape, Omiš 2008 Since 1967, this klape festival maintains the goal of preserving and promoting this secular folk style of music. It’s utterly competitive and the best klape are judged and rewarded by the jury and audience alike. The event will be preceded by events held in Blato on the island of Korčula, Vodice, Opuzen and Bol on the island of Brač. Omiš, Blato, Vodice, Bol, Opuzen. 14.07 - 14.08. The 54th Split Summer Fesitval A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in ambient venues throughout the inner and outer Split historical centre. Together with the local production by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad. Peristil, Cellars of the Diocletian’s Palace, Carrarina poljana, Kaštelet 18 - 19.07. Ethnoambient Salona 2008 Ethnic tunes fused with a modern sound drive this festival which will include the Martin Swan Stobo Village band with their celtic tunes, Zuzana Novak, Portugal’s very own Mandragora and back by popular demand Kristi Stassinopoulou and Stathis Kalviotis. With so much more to offer, the archeological site of ancient Salona makes for a grand event. 01 - 03.08. The 293 Sinj Alka A traditional knight’s tournament of alkari, held in memory of the Cetinska krajina people who fought against the Turks, on August the 15th in 1715. A vivid contest which represents a lucky mixture of riding a horse, and whilst galloping trying to hit the ‘alka’ (an iron ring put on a string at 332cm) with a spear that’s 295cm long. The Alka is divided into three races: the first day Bara, the second day Čoja and the third day Alka. The winners take home financial awards, special placards and most of all prestige. It’s a cultural spectacle. Sinj, Alkar’s Race Road 10.08. Iron Maiden Heavy metal fans look out as one of the greatest bands of that genre rocks Split come August. As part of the world tour ‘Somewhere Back in Time’, the band will perform their very best songs made until the album ‘Seventh Son of the Seventh Son’. It will be the only Iron Maiden concert in this part of Europe, so don’t miss it! Poljud Split Stadium 10.08. August the 6th ‘Are you gonna go my way?’ American Rock icon Lenny Kravitz visits Croatia as part of his ‘Love Revolution Tour’. The city of Zadar will lighten up with his guitar riffs and ever so popular commercial hits. Zadar Culture & eVentS 9 Sony concerts.. July the 12th, 10am - 6pm Summer rocks with Sony as they present a one day event which allows visitors to test all the latest Sony Ericsson mobile phone models as well as partake in endless competitions with prizes. A DJ will be spinning tunes, there’s a karaoke competition, a dance competition via PlayStation 3 and DJ workshops presented by Astralis DJ’s: learn to mix music and even create your own mobile ring tone. This is state of the art and an event to savour come this summer. Bačvice www.inyourpocket.com 13 - 20.09. Split Film Festival Since 1996, this international festival of new film, video and new media; promotes art of the moving picture whilst supporting the author and research approach, especially focusing on works made off the film. The program is divided into a feature movie, short movie, video and new media competition. Cinema Zlatna Vrata and Cinema Karaman Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 10 Culture & eVentS Diocletian The history of the early part of his life is rather fuzzy, but Diocles (also Diocletian in English) is believed to have been born in about 244 near Solin, 8km away from present-day Split. Diocletian was Roman Emperor from November 20, 284 to May 1, 305 and, by establishing a strong autocracy and strengthening the military, brought an end to the period of the Roman Empire known as the “Crisis of the Third Century.” One of the many distinctions of Diocletian’s rule was the creation of the Tetrarchy, which is generally credited with ending the aforementioned Crisis of the Third Century. To distribute power and authority more evenly, Diocletian initially named a co-emperor, Maximian, to look after affairs in the Western regions of the Empire. In 293, desiring even more focus on civic and military matters, two more Caesars (junior emperors) were named, with each leader operating out of their own capitol on the frontiers of the Empire. After twenty years of rule, Diocletian and Maximian abdicated power. Newly-appointed Tetrarchs quickly made the system of rule a formula for civil war, and this unique form of government collapsed. Diocletian saw his friends and allies turn against him and each other, with Maximian even forced to commit suicide. By this time, Diocletian was in his elaborate retirement palace that he had had constructed, the ruins of which form the core of the old town of modern-day Split. On December 3, 311, after a tumultuous life as the leader of the Roman empire, Diocletian died. 04, broadway-brodarica@issa-kina.com, www.broadwaykina.com. QOpen 14:30 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Central I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. 34 38 13. Karaman I-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. 34 58 33. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino Bačvice) D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. 34 86 76, info@ekran. hr, www.ekran.hr. Culture & eVentS Cinemas Broadway D-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. 39 68 24/ 35 09 11 12:30 and 17:00-20:00, Closed Sat, Sun Cultural centres Alliance Fraincaise I-2/J-1, Marmontova 3, tel. 34 72 90, www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Q Open 08:00 Multimedia Culture Centre (Multimedijalni kulturni centar) D-2/E-2, Savska bb, tel./fax 53 74 Theatres Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. 30 69 08/ 34 49; 53 74 71, mm-kulturni-centar@st.htnet.hr, www. mkcsplit.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 49 99; 36 30 14, huk-split@huk-split.hr, www.huk-split. hr. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Puppet Theatre (Gradsko kazalište lutaka) I-2, Tončićeva 1, tel. 39 59 58; 39 59 68/ 098 32 17 82, fax 39 47 14, gradsko-kazaliste-lutaka@st.t-com.hr, www. gkl-split.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Youth City Theatre (Gradsko kazalište mladih) I-2, Trg Republike 1/I, tel. 34 49 79/ 32 12 57, fax 32 12 58, info@gkm.hr, www.gkm.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 12 WHere to Stay Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms 6 Animal friendly C Swimming pool WHere to Stay  Split telephone code is +385-21 24, fax 36 27 35, michel@inet.hr, www.paradiso-michel. hr. Paradiso is an apartment type hotel that’s run as a family business. It’s easily located in the centre of the city and amenities include a small restaurant, internet connection plus additional services such as rent a limousine with a driver or even cruise services. Rooms are equipped with TV, DVD and video as well as a Jacuzzi or sauna if you choose. The bus station and other means of transport are close by. Q2 rooms (2 doubles 1200Kn). P6 hhhhh Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. 40 64 00/ 40 64 06, fax 40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www.hotelparksplit.hr. For an upscale establishment with over fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel’s life. There’s no pool, the rooms’ bathrooms are small and service can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice and the quiet atmosphere make up for these small problems though, and the outdoor terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees, is hard not to love. Q57 rooms (21 singles 1000Kn, 33 doubles 1375Kn, 2 apartments 2420Kn, 1 Presidential Suite 3080Kn). PHALGBKW hhhh President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. 30 52 22, fax 30 52 25, hotel.president@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelpresident. hr. Just outside the walls of the old town near the Croatian National Theatre stands the President, a comfy hotel with stylish decorations in earthy, natural tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need more space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the trick. Q73 rooms (8 singles €123, 55 doubles €138 - 233, 6 Junior Suite €253, 4 Presidential Suite €368). PHA6ULGBKW hhhh Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4, tel. 32 93 29, fax 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a hip homage to ancient and modern, with rooms decorated in black, brown and beige, contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with the original Roman walls that stand exposed. The modernity and hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel uncomfortable, however, making this the most sought-after and exclusive name for Split’s visiting elite. Q10 rooms (4 singles €120 - 140, 4 doubles €140 - 240, 1 Luxury Suite €300 - 350, 1 Junior Suite €240 - 280). PALGBKW hhhh 13 Paradiso J-2, Andrićeva bb, tel. 36 26 98/ 098 36 17 Cream of the crop Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. 50 05 00, info-split@lemeridien.com, www.lemeridien.com/ split. Brand new and exclusive with 381 guest rooms and suites. Set on a marina promenade; expect to be dazzled by the multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus casino, sports bar and nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex and the astounding Diocletian Spa and Wellness Centre are state of the art. With over 800 meters of beach frontage, it really is paradise. This sate of the art new hotel complex is located 8 kilometers from the centre of Split. Q398 rooms (singles €190, 381 doubles €295, 11 Adriatic Suite €540, 3 Diplomatic Suite €870, 1 Presidential Suite €1100, 2 Family Suite €440). POTHA6UFLG� BKDCW hhhhh Upmarket Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. 30 23 02, fax 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.arthotel.hr. If you’re a business traveler with access to a car, this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a car, you’ll be a fifteen minute walk from the old town but either way, you’ll have an exceedingly comfortable and stylishly-decorated room with Internet access included in the price. Q36 rooms (singles €111 - 120, 36 doubles €127 - 160). PHAULGK hhhh Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. 20 00 00, fax 20 01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. You’re not in the middle of the action if you’re staying here, but the entire hotel is modern, luxurious, comfortable and nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi and free Internet. All the things you want and expect from an upscale hotel are here. Q101 rooms (singles 1125 - 1195Kn, 99 doubles 1425 - 1495Kn, 2 apartments 3600Kn). PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. 35 00 00/ 35 00 05, fax 35 00 01, info@hoteldalmina.hr, rezervacija@ hoteldalmina.hr, www.hoteldalmina.hr. The location is a bit drab and off the beaten path, but everything you need for a decent stay is on offer: Internet, free on-site parking, complimentary breakfast and more. Q52 rooms (singles 840Kn, 30 doubles 990Kn, 4 apartments 1337Kn, 18 Twin Rooms 990Kn). PHAUGK hhhh Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. 48 11 11, fax 48 11 18, info@hotelglobo.com, www.hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its classification, Globo has a relatively decent location, exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a breakfast that usually doesn’t fail to satisfy. Q33 rooms (singles 921Kn, 28 doubles 1180Kn, 5 triples 1439Kn). PHAL hhhh Old-School charm Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 2, tel. 34 56 44, fax 36 23 83, rezervacije@hotel-bellevue-split.hr, www. hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today’s hotel Bellevue is located on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and on the southwest wing of the Prokurative. It was once a former hotel used to offer curing baths to guests whilst its café was a meeting place for rich clientele. In 1906, it received its name »Grand hotel Bellevue«, and was later renovated in 1934. Famous writers such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha Christie have all lodged here. Today’s hotel offers comfortable accommodation and includes the Noštromo restaurant. Q50 rooms (13 singles 513 - 610Kn, 34 doubles 703 - 830Kn, 3 triples 931 - 1080Kn, 3 apartments 998 1130Kn). PALK hhh www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 14 WHere to Stay Mid-range 34 00 00, fax 34 00 08, info@hotel-adriana.hr, www. hotel-adriana.com. Perhaps the proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side and the service has been known to be a bit curt. All in all, this one is more than adequate for a few nights and the location is nearly perfect. Q15 rooms (2 singles 550 - 650Kn, 13 doubles 750 - 900Kn, 2 apartments 1200 - 1400Kn). PABK hhh As E-1, Kopilica 8a, tel. 36 61 00, fax 36 61 11, info@hotelas-split.com, w w w.hotelas-split.com. If you’re willing to travel a bit to get to it, this is another solid choice on the outskirts of town. A modern building with the expected additions to make for a pleasant and comfortable stay. Q33 rooms (singles 550Kn, 33 doubles 720Kn). PALK hhh Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. 34 01 30, fax 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www.hotel-consul.net. Perhaps a bit pricey considering the services on offer, but clean, comfortable and friendly nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from an old apartment building and is situated in a quiet, residential area fifteen minutes’ walk from the center. Q19 rooms (4 singles 650Kn, 11 doubles 920Kn, 4 apartments 1500Kn). PALBK hhh Kastel I-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax 34 39 12, tel. 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit.com, www.kastelsplit. com. One of the best values for small guesthouses in the city, this tall building sits at the southwest corner of the palace and is operated professionally and efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 single 340 - 560Kn, 4 doubles 490 - 750Kn, 1 triple 550 - 900Kn, 1 apartment 560 - 910Kn, 2 Family Rooms 760 - 1170Kn). PAG hhh Marjan C-3, Obala kneza Branimira 8, tel. 39 92 11/ 30 21 11, fax 39 92 10, marketing@hotel-marjan.com, www.hotel-marjan.com. Some visitors might be put off by the exterior and the hotel’s proximity to a major petrol station, but the rooms were recently renovated and the hotel is located about five minutes from the old town. Definitely a decent choice for a few nights spent in Split. Q111 rooms (21 singles €91 - 96, 85 doubles €59 - 69, 5 apartments €250). PALK hhh More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. 46 21 12, fax 46 22 01, hotelmore@hotelmore.hr, www. hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually a bed and breakfast that operates in an interesting cascade-style building on the waterfront, a short walk from the old town. The vibe is calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms (singles €123, 8 doubles €132, 1 apartment €162). PAULG hhh Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. 32 90 70, fax 32 90 88, hotel.peristil@email.t-com.hr, www. hotelperistil.com. Given the excellent furnishings, superior location and lovely view from the terrace on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn’t anywhere in the neighbourhood of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs whip up food in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles €95 - 135, 9 doubles €120 - 162). PAGK hhh WHere to Stay Budget Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. 53 80 25/ 53 80 27, fax 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www.hoteldujam. com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and Domnius), patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint of budget travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel, located about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Those keeping a cautious eye on their cash flow will appreciate the clean rooms and functional furnishings. Q35 rooms (33 doubles €70 - 92, 2 apartments €84 - 118). PHALK hh Slavija I-2, Buvinina 2, tel. 32 38 40, fax 32 38 68, info@hotelslavija.com, hotelslavija.split@st.htnet.hr, www.hotelslavija.com. Slavija’s stellar location in the palace and recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can also be a thorn in the side of those who treasure their beauty sleep. The loudest and rowdiest bars in the old town are located nearby. Q25 rooms (2 singles 650Kn, 15 doubles 790Kn, 4 triples 1000Kn, 2 quads 1170Kn, 2 apartments 1000Kn). PAL hhh 15 Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. Islands 091 335 29 49, fax 75 55 47, info@perlacroatia. com, www.perlacroatia.com. Apartment! Hotel! When their powers combine, they form: Aparthotel Perla! But seriously folks! This is an absolutely genius choice if you’re looking for a touch of class during your stay in Supetar. Eleven fully furnished rooms decked out with chic Italian furniture look out onto a lovely pool and deck area and, from the terrace, the sea and the islands stretch out into the horizon. Plus, there’s a sauna and gym on-site. Q11 rooms (3 doubles €230, 6 suites €300, 2 Junior Suite €270). PAFGDCW hhhh Pastura Postira, tel. 74 00 00 / 63 21 00, fax 63 21 09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelpastura.hr. Choose from 31 double rooms, 15 suites or 4 bungalows for up to five people. It’s perfectly located on the promenade with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities include an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna and massage. Modern and set in peaceful surroundings. Q46 rooms (31 doubles €42 - 80, 15 suites €48 - 86). PAL hhhh Riu Borak Bračka cesta 13, Bol, tel. 30 62 02, fax 30 62 15, borak@bluesunhotels.com, www. bluesunhotels.com. The lush surroundings and whopping 150 square meter pool are eye-catching. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms all decked with a balcony and essentials. Buffet meals are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters from the beach and close to town centre. Q184 rooms (133 doubles €37 - 99, 3 suites €205 - 380, 48 Family Rooms €51 - 136). PTAFLGBKC hhhh Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vela Luke 4, tel. 63 11 33, fax 63 13 44, sales@watermanresorts.com, www.watermanresorts.com. Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria, Meridien, Agava, Salvia, Olea and Adria Club have a lot of things going for it that might make it an irresistible choice while on Brač. Given the fact that it’s part of a consortium of hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels in the same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts and sports areas and a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to be located right on the beach. Q440 rooms (singles €54, 78 doubles €48, 277 triples €48, 63 suites €48, 22 Junior Suite €41). PTHAUFGKDCW hhhh Brač Aparthotel Perla Put Vele luke 53, tel. 75 55 30/ Private accomodation Jupiter J-2, Grabovčeva širina 1, tel./fax 34 48 01, mail@hotel-jupiter.info, www.hotel-jupiter.info/hr. A family-run establishment, Jupiter can boast a superb location in the middle of Split’s night-life area and offers rooms that, while clean and comfortable, aren’t exactly the most luxurious in town. That being said, they’re not the most expensive, either. Q4 rooms (3 doubles 250Kn, 1 triple 250Kn). PK hh Out of town fax 79 81 50, info@hotel-adria.hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If waking up for that 6:00am flight intimidates you a bit, Hotel Adria’s location can afford you a few extra winks the night before and has comfortable rooms and a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes taking off and landing distracts you, close the windows, crank up the AC and the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (singles 370 - 440Kn, 11 doubles 520 - 620Kn, triples 720 - 840Kn). PALBK hhh Pašike Sinjska bb, Trogir, tel. 88 51 85; 88 16 29/ 091 484 84 34, fax 79 77 29, info@hotelpasike.com, www.hotelpasike.com. While the amenities and services are thoroughly modern, the decor and the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th and early 20th century, making this one of most the intriguing hotel choices in the area. Q8 rooms (7 doubles 700Kn, 1 apartment 1100Kn). PAK hhh San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. 33 61 11, fax 33 53 48, info@hotel-sanantonio.com, www.hotelsanantonio.com. The words “San Antonio” cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not. This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the beach in Podstrana, 8km from the old town. High-speed Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities. Ideal for long sessions of quiet chilling on the beach. Q23 rooms (singles €136 - 168, 17 doubles €178 - 199, triples €198 - 234, 6 suites €178 - 312). PHAFLGBKDC hhhh Adria Franje Tuđmana bb, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. 79 81 40, from your seafront balcony or on the pebble beach the hotel has access to. This is a prime choice for travelers looking to relax and soak up some rays. Q28 rooms (22 doubles 315 - 575Kn, 6 Family Rooms 315 - 645Kn). PJAFLBK hhh Riva Riva bb, Hvar, tel. 75 01 00/ 75 07 50, fax 75 01 01, 75 07 51, reservations@suncanihvar.com, riva-reception@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar. com. Ideal for single travelers, party people or friends on a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern and chic through and through. Unfortunately, the rooms are reminiscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly cramped and uncomfortable after long periods of time. There are even, inexplicably, see-through glass windows on the toilet and shower. Come mentally prepared for these details, and you’ll have a blast rocking out in the bar on the ground floor or relaxing on the patio facing the harbour. Q54 rooms (singles €127 - 292, 46 doubles €138 - 303, 2 suites €182 - 413, 6 Junior Suite €138 - 358). PA6UFLGKDCW hhhh The Palace Trg Sv. Stjepana, tel. 47 19 66/ 90 69 46, fax 74 24 20, reservations@suncanihvar. com, palace@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar. com. If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right on the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably wouldn’t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated interior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73 rooms (4 singles €96, 58 doubles €136 - 202, 3 suites €208 - 235, 8 Junior Suite €213 - 257). PHA6GKDCW hhh  Split telephone code is +385-21 Split In Your Pocket 17 07, croatia-hvar@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelcroatia. net. Ah, tranquil surroundings. Peace and quiet! Hotel Croatia has a laid-back atmosphere that you can enjoy Hvar Croatia Majerovića b.b., Hvar, tel. 74 24 00, fax 74 44; 71 79 85, fax 71 30 98, info@hotel-bisevo.com, www.hotel-bisevo.com. Probably the best bet in tranquil Komiža, this functional and comfortable hotel comes with some handy pluses like satellite TV and a balcony for every room. Q130 rooms (2 singles 230 - 530Kn, 23 doubles 175 - 410Kn, 5 apartments 95 - 630Kn). PTAFD hh Paula Petra Hektorovića 2, Vis, tel./fax 71 13 62, tel. 098 42 22 61, info@hotelpaula.com; hotel-paula@ st.t-com.hr, www.hotelpaula.com. A family hotel located on the eastern side of Vis Town in a quiet, residential area known as Kut, Hotel Paula offers clean and comfortable accommodation along with a restaurant and bar. The atmosphere of the hotel is enhanced by the surroundings: stone churches, courtyards and a tangle of cobblestone streets. Q10 rooms (3 doubles €50, 6 suites €54, 1 presidential suite €79). PAKG hhh Vis Biševo Ribarska 72, Komiža, tel. 71 32 79/ 71 31 Summer 2008 16 reStaurantS Split offers you a chance to taste various specialties such as ‘fish on the grill, cooked lamb, brudet…’ As you search on where to dine, the category titled ‘Traditional restaurants’ greatly encompasses a range of Croatian restaurants with rich, traditional, old homemade meals. Restaurants in other categories also offer a smorgasbord of different menus including Mediterranean. So whilst you enjoy your stay, you have every possibility to try something outstandingly new with various combinations ranging from meat, fish and right through to vegetarian meals. floor), tel. 20 01 32, www.hotel-atrium.hr. Elegant and modern interior with cool lounge music and high level of service. Elaborate wine list. We ate delicious fish fillet stuffed with prosciutto and brie cheese served with vegetables pasta and dalmatian fine herbs sauce.Moderate prices for a five star restaurant. Main dishes from 75kn - 120kn QOpen 06:00 - 11:00. Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16, tel. 54 81 00; 36 11 16, fax 54 02 53, mail@restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje. hr. This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre - Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PAB Il posto E-3, Put Firula 47, tel. 38 92 88/ 091 506 98 63, www.ilposto.hr. Italian pasta, perhaps pašticada (stewed beef cooked in a special sauce) or a number of other meals with homemade bread, fine service and pleasant interior awaits you in Zenta bay. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40-90kn). PAB Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. 32 22 65/ 35 82 55, fax 38 88 83, www.lemonde.hr. Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant in the rambling boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It’s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAGB reStaurantS Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium, 1 st 17 International Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 85 60, info@ adriatic-graso.com, www.adriatic-graso.com. With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (20 - 500kn). PAGB Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog preporoda 8, tel. 34 00 00, fax 34 00 08, info@adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana. hr. This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? Its prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly priced! QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PAG Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. 54 33 00, info@ restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.com. The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared in traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAB Pizza curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions QOpen 09:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PA Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. 48 63 33, fax 48 63 86. You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for its right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50 metres, turn left and take an immediate left again. There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PAG Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. 31 49 88. A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 70kn). PB Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. 38 47 77. There are 2 Velo Misto’s, one located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other Velo Misto is located in Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular tv series with performances by top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (30-130kn). PAG Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. 34 50 15. Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes the name ‘The Golden Gate’ and is surrounded by a lovely courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer. The wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The salads are significantly filling. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. (15 - 50kn). PNB Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. 34 79 32. The interior Light bite exists Šperun and Šperun Deva! In the first you can eat and dine well, and in the other you can definitely take advantage for breakfast or a good glass of wine and cheese. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (20-60kn). PAB Šperun deva H-2, Šperun 2, tel. 49 06 64. Firstly, there bota-sare.hr. Situated right above the Bačvice Beach and packed with a fresh seafood menu; this eatery is extremely popular amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and extensive wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (30-600kn). PAB Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 89 00/ 098 79 99 83, jskare@globalnet.hr, www.restaurant-jugo.com. Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). PAGB Noštromo Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. 091 405 66 66, info@ restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo.hr. Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (250-500kn). PN Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel./fax 48 86 48, www. Seafood Šumica E-3, Put Firula 6, tel. 38 98 97/ 38 98 95, fax www.inyourpocket.com Split In Your Pocket 38 98 94. The view from this restaurant is directed toward the Brač canal and in the shade of the terrace you are sure to enjoy the seafood specialties with a choice of wines. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (60-280kn). PALGB Summer 2008 18 reStaurantS tel. 34 73 97. Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and th e music is strictl y classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50-400kn). PAGB Konoba Var oš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. 39 61 38. I t’s si tuated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (30 100kn). PAG reStaurantS Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, 19 Symbol key P E T G O R Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet A S U L M 6 Credit cards accepted Take away Facilities for the disabled Guarded parking Nearest station Animal friendly Fast food Delta I-2, Marmontova 7, tel. 34 69 22. Located at the top end of Marmontova, stop in for a quick pastry snack. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Kantun Paulina I-2, Matošića 1, tel. 39 59 73. Some situations just call for a nice serving of čevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. Mc Donald’s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker), tel. 49 33 20, fax 49 33 22. It is there. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. 34 83 49/ 091 574 07 64. Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a midday or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Traditional restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split Riviera. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70-150kn). PAGB Bekan E-3, Zajčeva 4, tel./fax 38 94 00. Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Dalmatian cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Bekan is just one of the many delights on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (30-300kn). PAGB Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz Braće Kaliterna 6, tel. 31 48 01/ 098 52 09 00, www.vinoteka.hr. This cellar wine bar located in Bačvice stows authentic Croatian wine that simply delights whilst nibbling on tapas Croatian style. The varied menu features the likes of spicy Slavonian sausage, prosciutto as well as dishes infused with spicy Istrian truffles. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. (60-150kn). PAG Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. 34 52 23/ 091 737 31 12, www.buffet-fife.com. Labelled as the ‘shrine’ of Dalmatian gastronomic delights and a favourite spot amongst journalists, writers and actors. It offers an excellent choice in fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. It’s a must for a taste of domestic specialties. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 50kn). PNGB Hvaranin Ban Mladenova 9, tel. 091 767 58 91. To experience Dalmatia you simple have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The muscles and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 and 18:00 - 24:00. (70-300kn). PN Kibela J-2, Kraj sv.Ivana 5, tel. 34 62 05/ 091 404 90 40, fax 35 83 66. A small, homey restaurant hidden away in the palace complex, Buffet Kibela has a satisfying list of meat and seafood choices on its daily menu, prepared fresh every day. The food is the perfect size for lunch and is brought out virtually instantaneously by the polite and attentive staff. Thumbs up. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (25-80kn). PNGB 30 15, pimpinella@net.hr, www.pimpinella.hr. A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of the family house with a menu that includes grilled meals, pašticada, shank, roast lamb with vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (40-200kn). PAB Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. 34 87 10/ 091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. (40 - 70kn). PNG Pimpinella E-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. 38 96 06/ 091 121 Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. 34 69 99. A cute buffet Vegan Natural J-2, Glagoljaška 2, tel. 091 789 86 72, udruga_natural@net.hr. The name says it all!A daily menu which offers a wide choice of Vegan organic foods; ranging from soups to various salads, steamed vegetables and other assorted deserts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Desserts Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20, tel. 098 39 53 37, www.bobis-svagusa.hr. A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PGB Galerija J-2, Dominisova 9. The imaginative and pleasant decor pay perfect compliment to the sweets on offer and the music tinkling away in the background is a nice touch. A good alternative to the standard dessert places around town. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6, tel. 34 49 89. Cool off at Kuća Carmen as they offer you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages. From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It’s close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to miss. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PG La Maison de Sarah I-3, Obala hrv. narodnog preporoda 20, tel. 098 994 61 19. The proprietors of La Maison de Sarah meet the pastry demands of coffee-sipping Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of handmade delights, including colorful little cakes and pastries with a variety of French-sounding names. Unfortunately, it’s not actually a house - all the pastries are take-away only. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. 36 10 70. This is the oldest confectionary in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. PNG Vegetarian Makrovega I-2, Leština 2, tel. 39 44 40, fax 38 66 62, info@makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or vetch…you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 17:00. (50-60kn). PNG Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza ain’t bad, actually it’s quite good. It’s located at the Spinut Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (50-90kn). PALGB Oštarija u Viđakovi Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. 48 91 06/ 091 565 46 27. A fine location in the Bačvice area! This small and eloquently traditional bistro which carries a rich family tradition offers local dishes such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fish. All served in traditional ambience and spirit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (19 - 320kn). PAGB Pazi, skalina! E-3, Put Firula 45, tel. 38 88 15/ 091 926 47 08, branislav.mateljan@st.t-com.hr. The name of this restaurant points to the obvious….Careful of the steps! In this cellar tavern you’ll find fish and meat dishes at reasonable prices. Don’t forget to chase it up with a nice glass of wine. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (40-120kn). PAB Lučica C-2, Lučica 7, tel. 38 67 63/ 098 85 41 10.  Split telephone code is +385-21 Summer 2008 Split In Your Pocket 20 CaFÉS Caffe Gallery Ave I-2, Rodrigina 4, tel. 32 26 27/ 091 527 96 63. The avenue has a soulful vibe so, come in for a well-served and welcoming coffee accompanied with a fresh croissant within this café - art exhibit space. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNG Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. 34 48 48. A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here’s a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they’d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it’s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. Its name translates to the Italian fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is unusually narrow! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PGB Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. 34 82 57. In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk. Q Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00 and 20:00 - 01:00. PB Kalafatić E-3, Cvjetna 1, tel. 38 91 01/ 091 206 11 51, fax 38 89 96. If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay, boats, the smell of the sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGB Kavana Procaffe C-2, Špinutska 67, tel. 38 43 23/ 65 61 17; 65 61 15, fax 65 61 25, info@procaffe.hr, www. procaffe.hr. A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping a coffee with an outlook toward the mainland and one of the many Kaštela towns of Split and the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGB Lvxor J-2, Kraj sv.Ivana 11, tel. 34 10 82. A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes t h a t on c e guard e d t h e entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lv xor’s lo ca tion on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quali ty of the location. There’s wireless Internet, ma gazines and daily newspapers in foreign lan gua ges an d a broa d menu that includes normal café fare, plus cock tails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PAB CaFÉS 21 As you wind your way through the streets and alleys of Split’s old town, you’ll encounter more cafes and bars than you can shake a stick at and the summer season will offer you no end of folks to browse impertinently, be they tourist or local. Nearly every cafe offers some kind of outdoor seating, but selecting the right spot will significantly affect your cool rating. Choose wisely. embedded in pieces of wood lining the back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner a server and make them spill the beans regarding their origins. Axes notwithstanding, the bar’s large outdoor seating area and small but stylish interior make for a pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out the passersby. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PB Žbirac D-3, Šetalište Bačvice bb, kontakt@zbirac.hr, www.zbirac.hr. It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge! QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Šetač I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb. The seven axes www.inyourpocket.com the interior is all done up in Teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings. Q Open Mon - Thr 08:00 -24:00, Fri and Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 -14:00 and 19:00 - 24:00. PNGB Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. 091 311 09 98. Give the interior of this one a pass unless the need arises to weave your way through the tables and patrons to visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent view from the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive significant other. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. NGB Tonik Juicy Bar H-2, Ban Mladenova 5, tel. 39 48 88/ 098 64 13 76. A small but charming place for a break in between checking out the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PNG Vidilica C-2/C-3, Nazorov prilaz 1, tel. 39 49 25. The best thing about this one is the view, and as far as views go, it doesn’t get much better. The harbor and the Riva, the sea and the islands are all on glorious display. Plus, the cafe’s location makes it a perfect starting or finishing point to an afternoon spent exploring Marjan. Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. 36 25 96. Yep, Ovčice E-3, Put Firula 4, tel. 48 97 59. From Split you can saunter from bay to bay including the bays of Zenta, Firule, Ovčice, and Bačvice. In Ovčice, a café with the same name is an ideal beach bar to have fun or to just lounge around. Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2, tel. 098 21 53 79. If you prefer an intimate affair, come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square (Voćni trg) giving a sense of the friendly local crowd atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00. Closed Sun. B Puls2 I-2, Buvnina 1. It’s easy to get to Puls,just take a right from the Voćni trg and straight in the narrow passage you’ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its industrially fitted interior.Whether you elect to stand or sit you’re sure to enjoy this place, especially its variety of delish cocktails and DJ beats on weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. Split In Your Pocket Riva An integral part of life on the seaside is Riva, the sea front of the city where locals and tourists go to hangout and relax. Everything you need to aid your process is immediate, from eating to drinking to shopping and people watching. Usually there is a street or a sidewalk that is for pedestrians only. Every coastal city manifests their version of this very differently; use this to gauge the unique of each of them.  Split telephone code is +385-21 Summer 2008 22 nigHtliFe Fine lookin’ Ladies Ask a Croatian where to go to seethe most beautiful women and most will point you directly to Split (even the bitter females of the population). A strange and nearly mystical aura surrounds these creatures, and indeed the world fashion industry makes no secret of this locales rare ability to produce goddesses. They are known especially for the combination of amazing height, ample bosom, brilliant Mediterranean Slavic features and a scorn for writers of city guides. nigHtliFe 23 Being as it is a city that thrives on tourism, Split by night is chock full of people wandering around who are in the area for only a night or two. Depending on your mood, this can be extremely interesting or mildly annoying. Either way, you’re sure to find a few bars that are open and pumping until early into the morning hours or sufficiently tucked away that you can escape the visiting hordes. Bars Bifora E-2, Bernardinova 5. Decorated with scenes from someone’s psychedelic experience or a particularly bizarre fairy tale, Bifora has interesting clientele, a quirky, relaxed vibe and attracts a large number of revelers in the summer months. Definitely a much-frequented stop for Split party-goers. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. JB alongside a group of narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00 - 12:00. Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10, tel. 36 00 50. Furry, fluffy seats complimented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PN Lounge bar Art I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. 49 09 45. Through Art you pass under a narrow entryway until you find yourself in an old-style courtyard with a white minimalistic space where morning coffees beckon, and the lounge bar spreads out to two more levels where the nights (particularly Fridays and Saturdays) get you in the mood with pumping DJ’s and Studio 54. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7 (Martinski prilaz). Nestled www.inyourpocket.com alexatpos@yahoo.com. Hang out of a more mature and discerning crowd, this intimately lighted and comfy space has an altogether positive, relaxing vibe enhanced by light and smooth music. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Sing Sing SS C-1, Poljudsko šetalište bb, tel. 099 477 23 36/ 099 455 26 66. Beneath the hallowed turf of Hajduk’s Poljud Stadium, there is a place that you can visit in the late evening hours where you are most likely to spend a night with a local sporting team alongside some great music. In case you bump into some of Splits famous sporting heroes, don’t take a photo, for it is forbidden! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. B Red room J-2, Cararina poljana 5, tel./fax 45 92 31, Clubs Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 3, split@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles won’t even make it past the door. This will be Split’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. PABW Hula hula (Jungla) A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. 091 571 30 99. The new season at this beach bar Jungle (located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. You’re invited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. PB O’Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. 098 36 42 62, infoohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. B Obojena Svjetlost A-3, Meštrovićevo šetalište 35, tel. 35 82 80. This place is noted as a popular hang-out, named after the locals and situated just under Kaštelet towards Marjan. Swing by and stay for the parties and concerts all summer. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. Treće poluvrijeme (Kuka) C-2, Zrinsko-Frankopanska 17. The expression ‘treće poluvrijeme’ points (3rd half-time) out that after all football games are played in town there is still a place where one can hang out and have fun and that place is known as Kuka, named after its’ owner. Kuka is located behind the National Theatre and it offers a choice of coffees during the day and a good time out at night till late (via its other entrance). If you don’t feel like walking, there’s plenty of parking space out front. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. PB Vanilla C-2, Poljudski put b.b., tel. 099 609 07 76, info. vanilla.hr@gmail.com, www.vanilla.hr. Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You’ll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 24 WHat to See Do you know what is so eloquent about Split? The possibility to stroll through the Diocletian palace for free, to drink coffee inside the palace, to enjoy the sunshine, listen to the tender sounds of klape singing, to walk through this place where ancient people used to live or to go into the cellars of the Diocletian palace and cool off from the sun during hot summer months. The city harbor still has an attractive ambience of a coastal town. Matejuška is the last picturesque part of the old Split harbor, and Tomića Stine is a symbol of folk architecture. Narodni trg (The people’s square) - Pjaca is the soul of the city. When in the square, you can visit a gothic council, clock tower and the gates to the Diocletian palace all in one glance. One other square – The Fruit Square has a late renaissance palace Milesi and Meštrović’s monument of Marko Marulić. Once inside the palace you will take your most valuable things with you, this picturesque ambience of narrow streets with Romanesque, gothic and renaissance houses, passages, gate arches and windows are fascinating. For your own knowledge, this area also includes the suburbs of Lučac, Veli Varoš, Manuš and Dobri which have a specific atmosphere and as well as a characteristic way of living. look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish wh y practi call y any emperor would be more than happy to lo ca te his palace at the si te that Diocletian ch ose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential ‘living museum,’ as modern shops and citizens live and work inside the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures. Fish Market (Ribarnica) I-2, Obrov 5, tel. 34 58 23. Upon entering, you might feel compelled to crack the classic, “Something’s fishy here…” joke, but please refrain - it’s been said before. What you can do is check out the hustle and bustle of weighing, cutting, haggling and trading that has been going on at this site since the fish market moved from its original location in the south-eastern part of the palace complex in 1843. The interesting smells emanating from the fish market might be compounded with another distinctive odor wafting through the air, that of sulphur. There’s a sulphur spa nearby whose smell frequently mingles with the smell of fish, creating a truly interesting amalgamation of aromas. Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) A/B-2/3. When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis. WHat to See Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2, A quick 25 Essential Split Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2. From 1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many urban improvements were made under the supervision of the French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh shops and cafés. Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog naradnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2. Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port. 08, 30 69 15, huk-split@huk-split.hr, www.huk-split.hr. The story of Croatia’s National Theatre in Split is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859, right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city. Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian control, the city’s leader and a principal investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly, that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881 and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised. The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street) and has resided there since. Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. 34 49 99/ 30 69  Split telephone code is +385-21 Split In Your Pocket Pazar (Green market) J-3. Any traveller worth their salt wants to get real and rub elbows with some of the locals and Split’s Pazar is the place to go to satisfy that desire. Jump in and join in the hubbub going on, all dedicated to good ol’ small scale market capitalism. The buying and selling frenzy involves a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends. Prokurative I-2. Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neo-Renaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Festival of Split Summer 2008 26 WHat to See 34 71, fax 34 59 80, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr, www.dominikanci.hr/zupa-gospe-od-ruzarija. Across from the Silver Gates of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic’s Church; first mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Q Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 19:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 19:00. WHat to See Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. 32 27 Bačvice Among the numerous beaches around the city, there is one, final name that sums up a true beach experience in Split: Bačvice. The city’s main public beach is an integral part of the lives of the people of Split, and understandably so. Just minutes from the city center, Bačvice is a tree-lined beach complete with bars, restaurants and cafés and marked by the blue flag that is so often spotted around Croatia, signifying that the water and environment surrounding the beach meet stringent international quality standards. But more than the natural aspects of the beach, Bačvice is beloved because of the large place it holds in the overall fabric of the city’s life. It is easy to imagine the various parts of the drama of a Split resident’s life taking place on this small strip of beach: clumsy baby steps on the sand, learning to swim for the first time, romantic walks along the beach and, most importantly to some, games of the ubiquitous picigin played with groups of rowdy friends. It is perhaps picigin, a sport that was invented right in the waters of Bačvice that is the perfect illustration of the attitude and overall feeling that exists at this special beach. The sport is played by small groups of people who try, by only using single touches from their their hands, to keep a speciallymade rubber ball aloft and out of the water for as long as possible. The main characteristic of the sport is that there are no opposing teams, no points, no winners and no losers. It is played for the sheer pleasure of being with one’s friends while running and diving through the shallow waters of Split’s most beloved beach. Veli Varoš H-2. Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split. Galleries 55/ 36 01 67, fax 36 01 67, gorana@mgst.net, www. mgst.net. The credit for the creation and maintenance of this gallery belongs to the citizens and city of Split, along with the family of this artist who is one of the shining stars of Split’s artistic history. Emanuel Vidović was born in 1870 and spent the majority of his life in Split, painting and teaching painting to aspiring artists at the School of Decorative Arts. The majority of his work deals with themes that he worked on while observing the natural landscape of Split and the nearby city of Trogir, along with the interiors of architectural points of interest in both cities. After a wait of many years and numerous offers to buy his work, Vidović’s family and the city of Split cooperated to create the current gallery, which displays a wide range of the artist’s work, along with the contents of the studio that he used near the end of his life in 1953. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. 34 83 87, 48 01 49, 48 01 50, fax 48 01 49, galerija-umjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Ever since the opening of the Art Gallery in 1931, the collection has had over 500 artefacts. Today it is wonderfully filled with over 32000 artefacts divided into four collections. The Old artists’ collection, the Collection of icons, the Collection of art from the 19th century and modern time as well as the Collection of contemporary art. Q Open Mon 18:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sat 10:00 - 13:00 and 18:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. Admission: 10kn for adults, 5kn for students. Ivan Meštrović Gallery and the Kaštelet A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, tel. 34 08 00, fax 34 08 10, fim-st@fim.hr, www.mdc.hr/mestrovic. Comprised of over 190 sculptures, over 500 drawings and a wealth of other materials, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a shepherd and stonecutter’s apprentice to conquering the heights of the international art scene. Meštrović’s sculpture went through a variety of styles and phases, but focused Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) J-2/J-3, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. 36 01 mainly on religious themes and the struggles in Yugoslavian history. His most famous works include the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split, the Josip Juraj Strossmayer statue in Zagreb and identical statues of Nikola Tesla in Belgrade and Niagara Falls State Park. After traveling the world to exhibit his work and living in art epicenters such as Paris and Rome, Meštrović went to the U.S. to live and teach, first becoming a professor at Syracuse University and then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1961.Close to the gallery that was once the Meštrović family palace stands the Kaštelet. Originally built in the 16th century as a summer house for one of Split’s noble families, the building has served several purposes since then, including being a tanner’s, a quarantine site for plague victims and a cloth dyer’s workshop. In 1939, Ivan Meštrović bought the then dilapidated building and set to restoring it. The building’s new purpose would ultimately be to display a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ that took forty years for Meštrović to complete. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 30kn for adults, 15kn for students and pensioners. 54 18. The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century. 13 77, samostan.poljud@gmail.com, www.samostanpoljud.com. On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts. The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothicrenaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Q Mass: daily at 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 19:00 and 20:30. The Franciscan Church and Monaster y of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. 38 The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5, tel. 30 54 44, fax 30 long and it just might be the smallest church in the world. It used to be the passage for watchmen who would secure the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the beginning of the 9th century it was turned into a Christian church and consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church, there is the monastery of the Dominican nuns. The first nuns arrived to Split in the 14th century and settled next to the church at the Golden Gates. They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care of the nearby Cathedral of Saint Domnius. The Church of Saint Martin (Gold gate - Crkvica sv. Martina) The church is 1.64 meters wide and 10 meters The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare) A well maintained church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque paintings by Venetian artists. Churches As you stroll through Split, it’s hard to miss the monasteries, chapels and churches which are a major part of the city’s history. Our little IYP tourist guide simply has to mention some of the grand holy sites that inexplicably reverberate the message ‘take out your camera and start snapping’. And with every snapshot, comes a story. The gothic church of The Holy Spirit is located on Trogirska Street and further on is the renaissance church of Saint Rocco which dates back from 1516; it’s situated on Peristil. Here you can get loads of tourist advice and information. Venture down to the south of Peristil where there are two chapels, Gospa od Pojasa (Our Lady of the Belt) from 1544 and Gospa od Začeća (Our Lady of Conception) from 1650. In Veli Varoš on the Marjan down hills, you can see the Church of Saint Nicholas built from the 12th century and on its right, there is the Church of the Holy Cross with its baroque bell tower. The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Located inside the Diocletian Landmarks Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck). Palace, in the hallway above the Iron Gates, you will find a baroque altar; dubbed a Byzantine icon, it was painted at around the 11th century. Preserved paintings by the artist Meneghello from 1412 are on show. Its bell tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower in Dalmatia. pass on by the church of Saint Francis (13th century) in which there are headstones that depict renaissance fine art. The headstones are of famous writer Marko Marulić (1450-1524), the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin (1641-1714), Toma Arhiđakon (around 1200-1268) as well composer Ivan Lukačić (1548-1648). Numerous baroque paintings and statues decorate the inside of the church, not to mention the gothic cloister on the outside. The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) I-2. In order to climb onto the Marjan Mountain, Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 28 WHat to See Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3, Sport Hall of fame Fabjan Kaliterna helped found Split's Hajduk football club in 1911 and was a cornerstone of Split's sports community as he was an essential part in the creation of many sports clubs and teams around the city. Luka Kaliterna was a self-trained goalkeeper who created his own innovative method of playing goal. His techniques are still in use today and are the base for training new players. He went on to become one of Hajduk's most famous and respected coaches. Bernard Vukas was a Hajduk Split player with so many achievements and accolades to his credit that one doesn't know where to begin. He was born in Zagreb and joined the Hajduk team in 1947. During the course of his Hajduk career, he scored 300 goals and helped the team win the Yugoslavian Championship in 1950, 1952 and 1950. Vukas was the captain of the national team and represented Yugoslavia 69 times in international play, racking up 20 goals in the process. In 1955, he donned the UEFA's colors to play in their Continent versus Great Britain game; in this game, Vukas scored a hat-trick as the Continental team defeated Britain four goals to one. Frane Matošić is undoubtedly one of the best players to ever don the blue and white for Hajduk Split. He played in 739 games and scored a mind-boggling 729 goals, making his scoring record seem insurmountable. To add to his mystique, Matošić started his career with Hajduk when he was just seventeen years old. As captain of Hajduk, he commanded respect from teammates and opponents alike and, for his scoring prowess and the silver medal he helped secure in the 1948 London Olympics, Matošić was the recipient of a lifetime achievement award from the city of Split and the Croatian Olympic Committee. Vladimir Beara was another legendary Hajduk and Crvena zvezda goalkeeper whose goalkeeping prowess made his teams winners time and time again. Between 1950 and 1960, he was on seven championship teams. In his career, he represented Yugoslavia in fifty-nine games and three world championships. Branko Radović, widely known as the "father of Split basketball," he helped discover and shape new players that reversed Split's basketball fortunes, turning them into one of the best teams in Yugoslavia. His hard work culminated in Split's victory at the 1971 Yugoslavian championships. Radović also represented Yugoslavia 35 times in international competition, including two European championships. As one of the basketball "sons" of Branko Radović, Rato Tvrdić was also one of Split's favorite basketball sons. As captain of the team and workhorse for Split Jugoplastika, he helped win two Yugoslavian championships and three Yugoslavian cups. However, his winning ways weren't limited only to Yugoslavia: he won gold in the 1970 World Championship in Ljubljana; two silvers in the Montevideo and Puerto Rico World Championships in 1967 and 1974, respectively; two golds in European championships; a gold in the Mediterranean Games and a Balkan Championship. Yet another Split basketball great was Petar Skansi, who represented Yugoslavia in international play for five years. His shining moment came at the World Championship in Ljubljana when he was named one of the top five players in the world.Split has more sports stars than just basketball and football players to boast of. Bačvice: just east of the Riva. Usually very busy. Žnjan: in the southeast, it’s a long beach that’s only used for swimming and sunning. Kaštelet and Kašuni: both of these are on the Marjan peninsula and are especially beautiful and wild. South to Omiš: there are beaches in every village on this stretch of the coast and just off the road. These are highly recommended options for your swimming, especially if you don’t like having a lot of humans all over the place. The road trip can be frustrating however for its great traffic. North: easily to travel to these roadside beaches via car, they’re all over the place and make for great swimming. Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. 32 39 01/ 32 39 05, fax 32 39 03, muzej-has1@st.t-com.hr, www.mhassplit.hr. Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval. Q Open daily from 10:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-13:00, Sun cls. Admission: 30kn for adults, 10kn for students and children. Đurđica Bjedov, a swimmer for Split's Mornar club, shocked the city when she won two Olympic medals: a gold in the 100m breaststroke and a silver in the 200m breaststroke. Miro Mihovilović was a legendary goalkeeper for the Jadran water polo club in Split. He represented Yugoslavia 22 times in international matches and in 1934, in the European Championship, was declared the best goalkeeper in Europe; at the 1936 Olympic games in Berlin, he was hailed as the best water polo goalkeeper in the world. Duje Bonačić, Mate Trojanović, Petar Šegvić, Velimir Valenta were rowers from the Gusar rowing club who went on to win gold in the 1952 Helsinki Olympics in the coxless fours event. Deni Lušić was a Split native and water polo sensation who went on to represent Yugoslavia in 276 international games and Croatia in 30 games, including winning gold for Yugoslavia in the 1984 and 1988 Olympic games in Los Angeles and Seoul. He was also one of the top club players in Europe during the duration of his career. Blanka Vlašič did many a Croatian proud when she won Croatia its first gold medal in the World Championship in Athletics in Osaka in 2007. Vlašič is currently co-owner, with Bulgarian Lyudmila Andonova, of the record for the secondbest high jump in history at 2.07m. Perhaps the most famous of all of Split's sports stars is Goran Ivanišević. Born in Split in 1971, Ivanišević is perhaps best known for being the only man in Wimbledon history to win the championship as a wild card, as well as his exceedingly powerful serve, which is still revered as one of the best in the history of the game. 29 Museums Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. 32 93 40, fax 32 93 60, info@armus.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski. Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval. Q Open 09:00.14:00 and 16:00-20:00, Closed Sun. Admission: 20kn for adults, 10kn for children and students. If you are a student of arheology you get a free ticket. City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva 1, tel. 36 01 71/ 36 01 72; 34 49 17, fax 34 49 17, muzej-grada-st@st.t-com.hr, www.mgst.net. The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the cities most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split. QOpen 09:00 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission: 10kn for adults, 5kn for children, students. Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) J-3, Severova 1, tel. 34 41 61/ 34 41 33, fax 34 41 64, etnografski-muzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografskimuzej-split.hr. If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission: 10kn for adults, 5kn for children students. Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2, Squares I-2. A trip west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes you through the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly reffered to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word piazza. In the fourteenth century, this square replaced the Peristyle as the city’s central meeting area and it remains so to this day. The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock with the remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older belfry and contains numerous shops and cafés. The north side of the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art or history exhibitions in the summer months. Voćni trg (Fruit Square - Trg braće Radića) I-2. Now home to various shops and businesses, Trg braće Radić was once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you might have guessed, fruit square. These days there’s no fruit in sight, but there are several shops and points of interest that call this square home, including the Venetian castello and tower, both of which were constructed in 1435. The northern side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created by another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović. Narodni (People’s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca) Beaches  Split telephone code is +385-21 Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 30 Sport Poljud Stadium Known to locals as “Poljudska ljepotica” or “Poljud beauty,” Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. Poljud was slated for a massive re-construction in anticipation of a joint Croatia / Hungary bid to host the UEFA cup in 2012. However, as Poland and the Ukraine were chosen to host the games, the re-construction plan has been put on hold. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was oficially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split. By far the most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fanbase around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team’s history. In the former Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities, particularly with Albanians in Kosovo. And there are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk n ever pla yin g a gam e without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, t h e Torci da.Nam e d for Brazilian football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‘to ch eer’), th e Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters groups in Europ e. Th e Torcida generally call Hajduk players as ‘bili’, which in local dialect is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform. Along with the team’s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players. mail & pHoneS City codes Zagreb Split Šibenik Zadar Rijeka 01 021 022 023 051 31 Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code ((0)21 if you’re calling Split for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate coun¬try code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s num¬ber. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and be¬gin with either 091,098, 092 and 095.Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an in¬ter¬na¬tional call to a Croatian mobile, dial your in¬ter¬na¬tional acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining 9 digits. City express mail 00, tel. 0800 303 333, split@cityexpress.hr, www. cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A City Express G-1, Put Mostina 10, tel./fax 45 70 Adventure sports Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel. 54 06 42/ 091 501 29 13, 091 526 38 13, fax 54 06 43, www.adventuredalmatia.com. Canoe safari, paintball, trekking, rafting... QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Dalmatia.net D-1, Put Supavla 1, tel. 38 10 27, 38 08 06/ 098 72 73 45, fax 38 10 46, info@dalmatia.net, www.dalmatia.net. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Dalmatia Rafting D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel. 32 16 98/ 098 25 04 85, 098 169 77 49, fax 32 16 99, cetina@dalmatiarafting.com, info@investigator. hr, www.dalmatiarafting.com. Canyoning, rock-climbing, canoe safari, rafting... QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Radmanove Mlinice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. 86 22 38; 86 20 73/ 098 81 36 80, fax 86 22 38, info@ radmanove-mlinice.hr, www.radmanove-mlinice.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Express mail DHL E-3/F-3, Poljička cesta 29, tel. 66 51 111, fax 66 51 120, hrspu@dhl.com, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 Hpekspres I-2/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. 34 89 90/ 34 52 35, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A 07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. IN TIME Put Stinica bb, tel. 50 81 66/ 091 626 20 30; 091 626 20 78, fax 57 04 99, split@in-time.hr, www. in-time.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N OverseasExpress J-1, Domovinskog rata 10, Dugopolje, tel. 66 01 53/ 66 01 57, fax 66 01 56, split@overseas. hr, www.overseas.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 12:00. Closed Sun. N Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Split is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of showtunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards: Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. Flip Aero club Split C-2, Teslina 27, tel./fax 38 50 28, tel. 095 825 38 30, www.aksplit.hr. Scuba diving 091 313 21 20, 091 313 21 21, info@akvatorij.hr, www. akvatorij.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Di Nautika C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 85 69; 32 20 05/ 098 44 76 92, 098 36 02 64, fax 39 85 69, dinautika@st.htnet.hr, www.di-nautika.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30 and 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Klub podvodnih aktivnosti Sub F-2, Getaldićeva 23, tel. 47 46 72/ 098 30 24 47; 091 313 21 21, sub@ st.t-com.hr, www.sub.hr. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Podvodno istraživački klub Mornar C-3, Uvala Baluni 1, tel./fax 39 86 33, tel. 098 161 73 57, p.i.k.mornar@ st.t-com.hr, www.pik-mornar.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00 and 18:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Akvatorij D-1, Put Supavla 21/III, tel./fax 45 95 45, tel. Windsurfing 7 Bofora D-2, Kavanjinova 14, tel./fax 48 04 28, tel. 091 516 62 01, info@7bofora.com, www.7bofora.com. Also Rent-a boat. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Ultra C-3, Uvala baluni bb, tel. 39 89 80; 39 85 78/ 098 54 21 53, mail@ultra-sailing.hr, www.ultra-sailing. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. T-Centar I-2/J-1, Marmontova 7-9, tel. 0800 15 50, simpa@t-mobile.hr, www.t-mobile.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Tele 2 I-2, Zadarska 12, tel. 34 60 02/ 095 100 04 44, korisnik@tele2.com, www.tele2.hr. You can purcahse their SIM cards at one of their partners: Impuls, Poljička cesta 30 (E-3/F-3), tel: 31 25 00 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Vip centar F-1, Lička 12, tel. 091 77 00, fax 48 49 82, sluzba.za.korisnike@vipnet.hr, www.vipnet. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Postal rates Letters up to 20 gr Postcrads Croatia Abroad Croatia Abroad 2,30 kn 5,00 kn 1,80 kn 3,50 kn  Split telephone code is +385-21 Split In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 32 mail & pHoneS Zara H-2, Sinovčićeva 1, tel. 39 47 68/ 098 905 59 QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. 62, zara@st.t-com.hr. Internet use: 15min-5kn;1h-20kn. getting arounD Post Sat 07:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. 33 Main post office I-2/J-2, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. 34 89 90/ 34 52 35, www.posta.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Public telephone Telephone cards You can purchase phone card (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15, 30, 50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy prepaid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad. Internet places info100D@gmail.com. Internet use - 20kn/hour, half hour 10kn, printing 1kn/per page. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. Mriža I-2/J-2, Kružićeva 3, tel. 32 13 20, kurziv@ hotmail.com. Old records lay stacked in the corner, pictures are on the walls and music plays lightly in the background. And, oh yeah, there are computers. It all looks exactly like a bedroom-turned-Internet point. In a good way. Internet use 5kn/15minutes. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Mtm Internet I-2, Zadarska 4/1, tel. 33 28 10/ 099 596 45 69, internet.mtm@gmail.com. Internet use - 10kn / 20minutes. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Net Com D-3, Poljana Grgura Ninskog 9, tel. 34 76 61/ 091 311 42 22, info@n-c.hr, www.n-c.hr. Internet use - first 15min / 5kn, price of every next minute is 0,33kn. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Wi-fi internet access ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni bb. Caffe bar Inc I-2, Tončićeva 6, tel. 32 27 73, incst1@ krosna.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. BW Hotel Art D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. 30 23 02, prodaja@ sales@hoteljadran.hr, www.hoteljadran.hr. Hotel President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. 30 52 22, info@hotelpresident.hr, www.hotelpresident.hr.W Kavana Luxor J-2, Kraj sv.Ivana 11, tel. 34 10 82. Split tours J-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 35 25 33/ 060 32 55 23. Cyber club 100D J-1, Sinjska 2/4, tel. 34 81 10, Hotel Jadran C-3, Sustjepanski put 23, tel. 39 86 22, arthotel.hr, www.arthotel.hr.  Split telephone code is +385-21 Airline offices Adria Cezar Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana bb, Kaštel Lukšić, QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Aeroplan D-3, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. 33 84 45/ tel./fax 34 33 20, info@touradria.hr, www.touradria.hr. 33 84 46, fax 33 84 47, aeroplan@st.t-com.hr. Malev and Adria Airways agent. Office at the airport, tel. 79 62 93. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Croatia Airlines I-2/3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. 36 29 97, fax 20 31 25, sputo@ croatiaairlines.com, www.croatiaairlines.com. There is also office at the airport, tel. 021 20 33 05. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Generalturist I-3/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 51 83/ 34 55 91, fax 34 70 56, psplit@generalturist.com, www.generalturist.com. Lufthansa agent. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. If you didn’t manage to blow all your kunas on coffees on the Riva, you can exhange them in the offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of which are located in the main hall of the airport. And if you did manage to blow all your kunas on shopping, enquire at the information desk where you can confirm your tax-free form, as the office is not visually marked. Airport Brač Airport Brač Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. 55 97 01, fax 55 97 09, info@airport-brac.hr, www.airportbrac.hr. Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 20:00. Airport Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. 20 35 55, fax 20 34 22, uprava@split-airport.hr, www.splitairport.hr. The airport is relatively small but serves a fair number of domestic and European cities. If you’re not able to fly to your destination from Split, there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected to the outside world. The airport can be reached by hopping on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The bus runs every 20 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. If you happen to have the distinction of being a Croatia Airlines passenger, you can take the airport bus that waits at the beginning of the Riva, an hour and a half before Croatia Airlines flights. Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) Airport bus If you’re flying with Croatia Airlines, buses leave an hour and a half before each flight and will set you back 30kn. The stop is located at the corner of the Riva and start of the street leading to the bus and train stations and the ferry port. Otherwise, take bus number 37 for Trogir from Sukoišanska bus station; tickets cost 15kn one way, leaving every 20 minutes. Bike rental Eurobike H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel./fax 34 74 14, tel. 37 50 02, euro-bike@vip.hr. You can rent one of their bikes for 20kn per hour, 100kn per day or 400kn per week. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Summer 2008 Split In Your Pocket 34 getting arounD Road help 987 San Diego tours I-3/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 49 09 18/ 098 37 03 88, san-diego-tours@st-t-com.hr. You can rent one of their bikes for 50kn per day. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. hours of each office change according to season, but during peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00 and the main office closes at midnight. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 22 to 43 kn per person and 101 to 312 kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you from 43 to 87 kn and bicycles from 22 euros to 36 kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two. One final, important note is that it’s not possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time. You can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car about 90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy your ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain to you from which dock the ferry leaves. fax 33 82 22, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija. hr. This is the main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation towards the islands. It must be said that the schedule for ferry lines can get a bit complicated. Kapetan Luka, Krilo Poljička cesta 28, Krilo Jesenice, tel. 87 28 77/ 091 205 98 86, luka.tomic@st.t-com.hr, www.krilo.hr. Tickets are available in Jadrolinija agancy. Snav D-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 32 22 52/ 32 22 53, fax 33 28 55, snav@st.htnet.hr, www.snav.hr; www. msckrstarenja.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Split Tours D-3, Gat sv.Duje 4, tel. 35 25 33, info@ splitours.hr, www.splittours.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00 and 17:00 - 21:00. Buses Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3, Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. 060 32 77 77/ 32 91 80, fax 32 91 82, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr. The main bus station isn’t the most impressive building in town, but it is well organized and conveniently located next to the ferry port and train station, which are all about ten minutes’ walk to the old town. If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be traveling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness-inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip. Information about prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at the information desk. The international ticket office is open 24h. Jadrolinija D-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 33 83 33/ 33 83 04, Car rental ABC I-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 23 64/ 099 34 23 001, fax 33 24 71, abc-rac@st.t-com.hr, www.abc-car. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Budget H-3, Trumbićeva obala 12, tel. 39 92 14, fax 39 82 20, std@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Branimirova obala 8, tel. 39 90 00/ 39 88 00, fax 34 76 81, subrosa@subrosa.hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 12:00. A Emaco E-2/E-3/F-2, Matice Hrvatske 14 (Bussines center Koteks), tel. 53 95 06/ 098 25 51 88, emaco@ emaco.hr, www.emaco.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Hertz H-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. 36 04 55/ 091 36 04 551, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.hetz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A ITR I-3/J-3, Obala Lazareta 2, tel. 34 32 64/ 34 30 70, fax 34 38 25, itr-st@st.htnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A National H-3, Dražanac 6, tel. 31 53 07/ 31 53 08, fax 31 53 08, info@nationalcar.hr, www.nationalcar. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Uni Rent H-3, Branimirova obala 5, tel. 31 72 97, fax 31 72 99, uni-rent.std@st.t-com.hr, www.uni-rent.net. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Harbormaster’s office Lazareta 1, tel. 34 55 00/ 36 24 36. Lučka kapetanija (Harbormaster’s office) I-3, Obala Charter BavAdria Yachting Obala kralja Tomislava bb, Kaštel Gomilica, tel. 20 40 20/ 098 32 16 57, bavadria@ bavadria.com, www.bavadria.com. QOpen 09:00 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Euromarine C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 32 31 01, fax 39 84 20, split@euromarine.hr, www.euromarine.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Gringo nautica E-3, Cvjetna 1, Marina Zenta, tel. 38 98 00/ 098 940 37 77, frane.cecic.acosta@st.t-com. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Nautika centar Nava C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 40 77 00/ 40 77 02, fax 40 77 11, info@navaboats.com, www. navaboats.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Orvas Yachting C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 32 20 15/ 098 45 22 25, fax 32 20 16, orvas-office@orvas.hr, www.orvas-st.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 20:00. Closed Sun. Ultra C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. 39 85 78/ 098 29 46 35, fax 31 45 88, booking@ultra-sailing-hr, www.ultrasailing.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Yachting Plus F-1, Mostarska 99, tel. 32 13 00/ 098 71 51 92, fax 36 76 84, azimut@yachtingplus.hr, www. yachtingplus.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ferries Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. We’ve expounded much on the convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the bus and train stations, but if you still don’t know where it is, making your way there has been simplified by those handy signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening  Split telephone code is +385-21 Split In Your Pocket 36 getting arounD Street smart Street Road Passage City centre ulica cesta prolaz centar Square Walk Way Station trg šetalište put stanica getting arounD OMV-Istrabenz Magistrala bb,Kaštel Sućurac, tel. 21 78 31, fax 21 74 99, www.omv.hr. A 37 Taxis The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 970. The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20 kunas, with a 10 kuna fee added per kilometre and 2.5 - 10kn added per each piece of luggage. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva. Port Authority 1, tel. 39 02 22, fax 39 02 39, lucka-uprava-split@ st.t-com.hr, www.portsplit.com. QOpen 07:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Lučka uprava (Split Port Authority) D-3, Gat sv.Duje Low cost airlines Air Berlin, www.airberlin.com. EasyJet, www.easyjet.com. Fly Thomas Cook, www.flythomascook.com. Germanwings, www.germanwings.com. Norwegian, www.norwegian.no. SkyEurope, www2.skyeurope.com. Sterling, www.sterling.dk. Public transport Split has bus lines numbered from 1 to 19. Day buses 1 through 18 run from 05:00 to 23:00. There is only one night bus, number 19, which runs on Fridays and Saturdays. Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 9kn or from kiosks near each bus stop for 7kn. The company that operate Split’s buses is called Promet Split, so make sure the kiosk has that name on it before trying to buy a ticket. If you’re trying to beat the system and riding without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 50kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:00 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:00 to 12:00 on Saturdays and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station, dial 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services, call 40 79 99. Towed away As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn’t heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has been be towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car impound at Pujanke (F-2), so you’ll need to shell out 340kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit card are accepted and the office is open around the clock. Tel. 37 68 48. Marinas ACI Marina C-3, Uvala Baluni 8, tel. 39 85 99/ 39 85 58; 39 85 49, fax 39 85 56, m.split@aci-club.hr, www. aci-club.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30. Trains Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. 060 33 34 44/ 33 85 25, www.hznet.hr. The main train station is situated next to the bus station and doesn’t offer many possibilities to travel around, save for frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco train, on which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music. And there’s one more really cool service offered at the train station. If you happen to have a car or motorbike and feel like letting someone else do the driving for a change, you can load your ride onto the train for a fee of 186 - 266kn plus price for the passenger ticket and collect it at your destination. Parking First and foremost, pay heed to the solemn pleas of our editor and please, please, please respect the parking laws of Split (and any other city you might be visiting). Now that we’ve sufficiently guilt-tripped you into behaving yourself, we can continue. If you park your car on streets zoned for parking, the fee is 3kn per hour from 07:00 to 19:00, Saturdays 07:00 to 14:00. In preparation for a new zoning system, Split’s streets have been divided into distinct pricing zones complete with an SMS pay system. However, the zone pricing system has not been implemented as of yet; so, when you pay via SMS, you’ll be charged the flat rate of 3kn regardless of the zone you’re in. After you get a ticket at the box under the parking sign make sure you put it in the car window otherwise you’ll be hit with a 60kn fine and if you’re late, 15 kn for first hour, 40 kn in second hour and after 120 minutes again 60kn fine. Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 4 to 10 kunas depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on the maximum 10 kn fee. Most of the lots operate around the clock, save for the one at Boškovićeva, which runs from 07:00 to 22:00. Promet Split E-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. 40 78 88, fax 38 37 05, promet@promet-split.hr, www.prometsplit.hr. Road help HAK (Croatian Auto Club) D-2, Starčevićeva 23, tel. 987, hak@hak.hr, www.hak.hr. Breakdown and towing service is available 24 hours a day. For road information 24 hours a day dial 01 46 40 800; during summer you can hear it on the radio in English, Italian and German. Travel agencies 30, tel. 49 01 29, adriatic-travel@st.t-com.hr, www. adriatic-travel.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Atlas D-3, Nepotova 4, tel. 34 63 33/ 34 30 55, fax 36 20 12, atlastours.split@atlas.hr, www.atlas-croatia. com. Q Open: Mon - Fri from 08:00-14:00 and 18:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-14:00 and Sun 18:00-20:00. Adriatic Travel D-3, Jadranska 6, tel./fax 49 01 SMS Parking There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car. Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. 48 10 97, info@promet.split.hr, www.promet-split.hr. Depending in which parking zone you are the prices go from 3-10kn per hour. Some parking areas work from 07:00-19:00 (Mon-Fri), 07:00-15:00 (Sat), Sun is cls., and bigger ones work 24h. www.inyourpocket.com Domestic flight schedule From Split Days - - 3 - - - - - - -61234567 - - - - 5 - - 2 - - - - -2 - - - - 12-34-7 -2 - - - - Dep. 18:00 21:00 06:15 07:05 13:05 13:05 19:45 21:00 Arr. 18:35 21:35 07:00 07:50 13:50 13:50 20:30 21:45 Destination DUBROVNIK DUBROVNIK ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB To Split Days - - 3 - - - - - - -5 - - - - -5-1-3 - - 6 - - - - 5 - - - - -5-12-45-7 12345-7 Dep. 14:15 20:05 05:40 06:15 12:50 12:50 14:40 21:20 Arr. 14:50 20:24 06:25 07:00 13:35 13:35 15:25 22:05 Petrol station for boats INA-Obala H-3, Branimirova obala bb, tel. 39 94 84, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A Petrol stations (0-24) Europa Mil-Sirobuja G-2/G-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. hr. A INA-Pojišan Pojišanska bb, tel. 53 72 89, www.ina. INA-Smokovik Domovinskog rata bb, tel. 37 34 70, INA-Visoka G-2/G-3, Kralja Držislava bb, tel. 37 45 78, www.ina.hr. A www.ina.hr. A 31 67 60, fax 31 63 36, www.europa-mil.hr. A Split In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 38 getting arounD Dalmatina.net C-2, Kamenita 40, tel. 39 43 92, fax 32 14 33, info@dalmatina.net, www.dalmatina.net. QOpen F-tours putovanja J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 1, tel. 34 48 QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. 54 22 33, fax 54 22 35, info@galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. QOpen 08:00 Generalturist I-3/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. 34 51 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A 42, fax 33 96 09, f-tours@st.t-com.hr, www.f-tours.hr. 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A getting arounD 39 83, fax 34 70 56, info@generalturist.com, www. generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Split Tours D-3, Gat sv.Duje bb, tel. 35 25 33, fax 35 24 82, travel@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. A Tarantela J-1, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. 33 24 60/ 33 24 59, fax 35 87 07, tarantela@st.t-com.hr, www. tarantela.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A www.inyourpocket.com International bus schedule From Split Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -2-4-67 Dep. 20:30 10:00 18:00 10:00 09:30 Arr. 09:00 07:00 05:00 01:30 06:00 Destination BELGRADE FRANKFURT LJUBLJANA MUNICH ZURICH To Split Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -2-4-67 Dep. 19:00 12:15 19:40 19:00 18:00 Arr. 06:30 10:00 05:00 10:00 13:00 International flight schedule From Split Days 1234 - - 7 - - - - 5-12-45-7 12-45-7 - - - - -6 - - - - -67 12345-12-45-7 -2 - - - - 12-45-7 - - - - -6 - - 3 - - - - - - - - 6 - - - - -6-2 - - - - 1-345-7 12-45-7 - - - - - - 7 1-3 - - 6 - - - - 5-12-45-7 1 - - - - - - 2-4 - - 7 12-45-7 12-4567 Dep. 06:15 07:05 16:05 16:05 08:05 13:00 14:45 16:05 13:05 16:05 14:10 06:15 13:20 07:45 08:20 06:15 16:05 14:25 06:15 07:05 16:05 06:15 19:45 16:05 15:25 Arr. 10:30 10:30 22:20 22:35 10:00 14:50 16:35 21:50 17:55 22:25 15:50 11:00 15:00 09:00 09:35 10:25 19:30 16:40 10:35 10:35 17:05 15:20 22:15 21:00 16:45 Destination AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM BARI CATANIA DUSSELDORF FRANKFURT FRANKFURT GENOA ISTANBUL LAMEZIA TERME LONDON (LHR) LONDON (LHR) LYON MUNICH MUNICH MUNICH PALERMO PARIS (CDG) PARIS (CDG) PARIS (CDG) ROME SKOPJE SKOPJE TURIN VIENNA To Split Days - - - - -612-45-7 12-45-12-45-7 - - - - -6 - - - - -67 12345-12-45 - - 2-4 - - 12-45-7 - - - - -6 - - -4 - - - - - - -6 - - - - -6-2 - - - - 1 - - -5-12-45-7 - - - - - - 7 1 - - - - - - - - -5-12-45-7 - - - - 5-1 - - -5-12-45-7 12-4567 Dep. 15:15 11:20 14:35 14:15 10:50 10:05 12:05 15:00 11:00 15:00 11:50 11:00 15:45 10:00 10:25 11:05 15:30 11:35 11:35 18:00 18:00 06:10 16:00 14:40 13:25 Arr. 17:15 15:25 19:05 19:05 12:35 11:40 13:40 19:05 15:25 19:05 15:10 15:30 17:20 11:15 11:40 13:35 19:05 13:35 15:25 22:05 19:05 13:35 22:05 19:05 14:40 Split In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Domestic bus schedule From Split Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 07:00 19:00 14:30 16:15 20:45 20:15 08:00 20:30 07:30 18:00 08:00 18:00 07:30 17:30 06:00 11:30 18:00 Arr. 09:37 21:41 19:47 20:30 00:45 07:30 19:00 06:15 15:45 02:20 09:40 19:40 11:00 21:00 14:00 17:00 23:00 Destination BIOGRAD BIOGRAD DUBROVNIK DUBROVNIK DUBROVNIK OSIJEK PULA PULA RIJEKA RIJEKA ŠIBENIK ŠIBENIK ZADAR ZADAR ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB To Split Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 07:47 18:38 19:00 19:30 21:00 18:00 06:45 20:00 17:00 20:30 09:00 18:00 07:30 20:00 08:00 14:30 23:30 Arr. 10:05 21:00 23:20 00:00 01:15 05:00 17:30 06:00 00:30 04:00 10:40 19:40 11:00 23:30 13:00 19:30 07:30 Split In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Split In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 40 getting arounD ... Ferries and boats International lines Jadrolinija international ferry Split - Stari Grad (Hvar island) - Ancona 01.06. - 10.07. & 05.09. - 28.09. Leaving Split on Tue, Thu, Sat and Sun at 21:00, reaching Ancona next day morning at 07:00 without stopping on Hvar island. Leaving Ancona on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun at 21:00, reaching Split at 07:00 next morning. 11.07. - 04.09. Leaving Split on Tue, Thu, Sat and Sun at 22:00, stops in Hvar only on Sat and Sun (23:30) and gets to Ancona at 07:00 (Sat and Sun at 09:00). Another lines from Split straight to Ancona are on Wed leaving at 21:00, getting to Ancona at 07:00 and on Sat at 09:30 getting to Ancona at 18:45. From Ancona ferry leaves on Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri and Sat at 21:00, Sun 11:30. Those on Mon, Wed and Fri get to Stari Grad at 10:00 next morning after custom formalities are done in Split (06:00). The one on Thu gets to Split at 07:00, doesn’t get to Stari Grad, same as the one on Sun that gets to Split at 19:15.Sat line at 21:00 gets to Stari Grad at 06:30, Split 08:30. Jadrolinija international ferry Split - Stari Grad (Hvar island) - Pescara 02.06. - 10.07. & 08.09. - 25.09. From Split twice a week, Mon and Wed 21:00, reaching Pescara next morning at 07:00. From Pescara twice a week, Tue and Thu at 21:00, reaching Split next morning at 07:00. 11.07. - 01.09. On Fri ferry leaves from Split at 09:00, gets to Stari Grad at 10:40, Pescara at 19:00. On Sun it leaves from Split at 21:00, stops at Stari Grad 22:40 (from 27.07.) and goes on to Pescara reaching it at 07:00 next morning. From Pescara one line on Mon at 21:0 that doesn’t stop on Hvar and gets to Split next morning 07:00.Another line on Fri at 21:00 gets to Stari Grad at 06:00 next morning, Split 08:00. Jadrolinija international ferry Split - Stari Grad (Hvar Island) - Korčula - Sobra (Mljet Island) - Dubrovnik - Bari Twice a week from Split, Tue 07:00 stopping at Stari Grad, Korčula and Dubrovnik, reaching Bari on Wed 08:00 and another line on Sat 06:30, same stops, reaching Bari on Sat at 22:00. Another line on Sat from 28.06. to 06.09.leaves Split at 18:00, stops in Korčula and Dubrovnik and gets to Bari on Sun 20:00. Two lines a week from Bari with stopping in Dubrovnik, Korčula and Stari Grad, on Wed 22:00 and Sat 23:59, both reaching Split next evening at 20:00. Additional line from 28.06. to 06.09. leaves Bari on Fri at 22:00, stops at Dubrovnik and Korčula, reaches Split Sat 17:30. getting arounD ... Ferries and boats Jadrolinija ferry Split - Rogač (Šolta island) Ferry leaves Split six times a day, at: 06:45, 09:15, 11:45, 16:15, 18:45 and last one at 21:15. From Rogač it leaves aslo six times, at: 05:30, 08:00, 10:30, 13:00, 17:30 and last one at 20:00. Split - Vela Luka (Korčula island) - Ubli (Lastovo) Two lines a day from Split, the one at 10:15 gets only to V. Luka and the one at 17:30 with stopping at V. Luka (20:15) all the way to Ubli. From V. Luka there are two additional lines (09:30 and 13:45) that get to Ubli at 11:00 and 15:15. From Ubli only one line goes all the way to Split at 04:30. From V. Luka there is one at 13:45 getting to Split at 16:30. Two more lines (11:30 and 17:30) will get you from Ubli to V. Luka. Ploče - Trpanj (Pelješac peninsula) Seven lines a day from Ploče, at: 05:00, 07:30, 10:15, 12:30, 15:00, 17:30 and last one at 20:00. From Trpanj also seven lines a day, at: 06:15. 09:00, 11:15, 13:30, 16:30, 18:45 and last one at 21:00 (31.05. - 29.09.) Orebić (Pelješac peninsula) - Dominče (Korčula island) From Orebić 1st trip at 00:30, then 04:00 (except Sun and holidays) then 05:30 and every hour up to 15:30 (except the one at 07:20), then 16:45, 18:00, 19:30, 21:00, last at 22:30. From Korčula 1st trip at 00:01, 03:30 (except Sun and holdays) then 05:00, every hour up to 16:00, then 17:30, 19:00, 20:00 last 22:00. 41 Jadrolinija ferry Jadrolinija ferry Jadrolinija ferry Jadrolinja catamaran Split - Milna (Brač island) - Hvar Leaving Split daily at 11:30, reaching Hvar at 12:30, on Tue it stops in Milna and reaches Hvar at 12:45. From Hvar it leaves daily at 13:00, reaches Split at 14:00, on Tue with stopping in Milna gets to Split at 14:15. Jadrolinja catamaran Split - Hvar - Vela luka (Korčula island) - Ubli (Lastovo island) Sails from Split every day at 15:00, gets to Hvar at 15:50, V. Luka at 16:45 and reaches Ubli at 17:45. Sails from Ubli Mon to Sat at 04:25 (Sun 07:00), gets to V. Luka at 05:10 (07:45), Hvar 06:15 (08:45) and reaches Split 07:30 (Sun 10:00). Jadrolinja catamaran Split - Hvar - Vis Leaves Split daily at 18:00 and gets to Vis at 19:15, on Tue it stops in Hvar and gets to Vis at 19:45. Leaves Vis every morning at 07:00 and gets to Split at 08:15, on Tue when stops in Hvar gets to Split at 08:45. Jadrolinja catamaran Split - Bol (Brač island) - Jelsa (Hvar island) Leaves Split daily at 16:00, reaches Bol at 16:55, Jelsa at 17:30. From Jelsa on Mon-Sat it sails at 6:00 (Sun 07:00), reaches Bol at 06:20 (Sun 07:20) and Split at 07:30 (Sun 08:30) Jadrolinija ferry Split - Vela Luka (Korčula island) - Ubli(Lastovo island) Ferry sails from Split at 17:30, stops at Vela Luka and gets to Ubli at 22:00.From V. Luka there are additional lines at 09:30 and 13:45 that gets to Ubli at 11:00 and 15:15. From Ubli ferry runs at 04:30 and gets to Split at 09:00.There are additional lines from Ubli to Vela Luka at 11:30 and 17:30 reaching it at 13:00 and 19:00. Drvenik Veli - Drvenik Mali - Trogir - Split It sails twice or three times a day from Drvenik Veli going to Trogir, but only Frid all the way to Split (only one trip at 10:45 from Drvenik Veli) There is only one trip from Split (on Fri at 15:30), others are from Trogir two or three times a day. Korčula - Prigradica - Hvar - Split (01.06. - 30.09. Tickets: Marko Polo tours, tel. 71 54 00 on Korčula, Jadrolinija Split shop on the peir) - it docks to Prigradica only if weather conditions alow. From Korčula leaves at 06:00, comes to Prigradica at 06:35, Hvar at 07:25 and reaches Split 08:30. From Split leaves at 17:00, gets to Hvar at 17:50, Prigradica 18:50 and reaches Korčula 19:25. Split Tours international ferry Split - Ancona 01.06. - 17.07. Daily runs (except Sat) from Split at 21:00. From Ancona also every day (except Sun) at 21:00. 18.07. - 01.09. From Split daily at 21:00 with additional runs on Mon, Sat and Sun at 11:00. From Ancona the same, daily at 21:00 with additional runs on Mon, Sat and Sun at 11:00. Snav international ferry Split - Ancona Daily from Split at 17:00, getting to Ancona at 21:30. From Ancona leaving at 11:00 every day, reaching Split at 15:30. Split - Hvar - Pescara Daily from Split at 17:00, stopping in Hvar at 18:30, reaching Pescara at 23:00. From Pescara daily at at 10:30, reaching Hvar at 14:15, Split at 16:15. Local lines Jadrolinija ferry Split - Supetar (Brač island) There are fourteen trips every day from Split starting at 05:15 and every hour or hour and a half till 23:59. Also fourteen trips from Supetar, starting 05:00, last at 22:45. Makarska - Sumartin (Brač island) Ferry leaves Makarska five times a day, at 07:30, 10:30, 13:30, 16:30 and 20:00. From Sumartin it sails at: 06:00, 09:00, 12:00, 15:00 and 18:30. Split - Stari grad (Hvar island) Seven lines a day from Split, at: 01:30, 05:00, 08:30, 11:00, 14:30, 17:00 and last at 20:30. Seven lines a day from Stari Grad, at: 05:30, 08:00, 11:30, 14:00, 18:00, 20:00 and last one at 23:00 (31.05. - 29.09.) Drvenik - Sućuraj (Hvar island) Eleven lines a day from Drvenik starting at 05:45 then every hour and a half or two, till last one at 22:30. Also eleven lines from Sućuraj, starting at 05:00 with last one at 21:30. Jadrolinija ship Jadrolinija ferry Jadrolinija ferry Krilo catamaran Jadrolinija ferry www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Split In Your Pocket getting arounD 43 Side trip Poor Zagreb. It’s a city of almost a million people – a fourth of the nation– and the cultural, scientific, industrial and governmental center of Croatia. Yet the slick travel writing, the television spots awash in blue water and golden sunlight usually focus on the coast. But Zagreb is a treat to visit, possibly as a counterpoint to a stay on the Croatian coast. That’s because when thousands of tourists are wedged between Dalmatian city walls or blanketing the beaches, Zagreb quietly goes about its own business. And in winter, while the coast is quiet except for the icy bura wind, Zagreb’s streets and cafes are lively. When Dubrovnik was a trading power and Split and Zadar were Venetian ports, Zagreb was an outpost on the AustroHungarian frontier. But 19th Century prosperity brought monumental civic and cultural buildings and modernization to its streets. As a result, Zagreb is a pleasantly walkable city. You can see its Centar in a few hours, but an extra day, or two, allows you to see interesting museums and a show at the lovely National Theatre or Lisinski Concert Hall. You can buy tickets for plays, operas and ballets at the box office and website of each venue. Any visit to Zagreb has to begin at its main square, Trg Bana Jelačića, named for the 19th Century Croatian governor still honored for abolishing serfdom and promoting Croatian autonomy. His equestrian statue faces south; originally it aimed north, toward his Hungarian foes. Nearby is Zagreb’s neo-Gothic cathedral, rebuilt by the Austrian architect Hermann Bolle after an 1880 earthquake. At Dolac, the city’s main market, you can buy all kinds of fresh foods. Zagreb used to be two towns, the religious center Kaptol, with the cathedral, and commercial and civil Gradec. The lovely pedestrian street Tkalčićeva and its trendy shops, restaurants and cafes originally was the boundary between them. The Kamenita Gate, the medieval entrance to Gradec, is a candlelit shrine. Votive plaques thanking Mary for answered prayers line its walls. Gradec remains the seat of Croatia’s government, but also has several restaurants and cafes, galleries and museums. The City Museum tells Zagreb’s story from primitive village to present day. Klovićevi Dvori Gallery hosts art exhibitions of international renown. A funicular railway descends to “Donji Grad,” the lower city. Beware of the noon firing of the cannon from the Lotrščak Tower. It has a way of surprising people. Perhaps Zagreb’s loveliest square is Zrinjevac, named for Nikola Šubić Zrinski, a 16th Century hero. On the square is Zagreb’s Archaeology Museum, home to thousands of artifacts. Zrinjevac is also a great place for art. The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters consists of pre-Renaissance to 19th Century works from the collection of Bishop Juraj Strossmayer; for more recent works, check out the Modern Art Gallery. The Art Pavilion, originally built for a Hungarian exposition, dismantled and rebuilt between Zrinjevac and the main train station, produces temporary art shows. But Zrinjevac is a pleasant place to rest in its own right, under tall shade trees, with the rush of a fountain and among bright flower gardens. Summer concerts are held on Saturdays at the gazebo. Summer 2008 44 SHopping BuSineSS DireCtory Emergency numbers Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard 92 93 94 9155 45 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka D-2, Gundulićeva 26/A, tel. 35 23 00/ 35 22 22, fax 38 03 00, www.zaba.hr. QOpen Business connections Županijska komora Split H-3, Ante Trumbića 4, tel. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Obrtnička komora Splitsko-dalmatinske županije 32 11 00, fax 34 69 56, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Banks & Exchanges Antiques Antique’s & Art’s J-2, Bulićeva 4, tel. 098 917 63 68. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Maximvs J-1, Sinjska 5, tel. 091 730 04 99/ 091 752 44 14. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. imandaria@yahoo.com; zvoncica31@yahoo.com, www. galerija-freska.com. Q Open daily from 09:00-12:30 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-13:00, Sun closed. Likovni studio J-1, Manuška Poljana 18, tel. 32 27 46/ 098 66 77 28, fax 32 10 82, vendiborovic@net.hr, www. petielement.hr. A small space full of hand-crafted ceramic lamps, figurines, picture frames and jewelry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Limonium J-2, Dominisova 14, tel. 091 731 64 09. Q Open daily from 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:00,Sat 09:00-13:00, Sun cls. Marco Polo J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. 49 09 30/ 098 970 53 34, info@marcopolo.com.hr, www.marcopolo. com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A O la la! H-1, Plinarska 21, tel. 39 49 40/ 098 924 11 45. Q Open daily from 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:30; Sat 09:00-13:00; Sun closed. A Putnik Art I-2, Rodrigina 1, tel. 49 05 44/ 091 525 03 87, putnikart@yahoo.fr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Studio Naranča Majstora Jurja 5, tel./fax 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com. Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting exhibits by Croatian and international artists and participating in the local art scene. Stop by their small, but impressive, gallery and show them some love QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Ruđera Boškovića 28-30, tel. 47 01 14, fax 47 02 82, ok.split@hok.hr, www.hok.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Galerija Freska H-1, Plinarska 49, tel. 39 49 18, tel. 43 41 00, fax 46 61 00, www.hypo-aple-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Podravska banka D-2, Ulica slobode 33, tel. 55 98 10/ 060 20 20 20, fax 53 01 10, kc-split@poba.hr, www.poba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka D-2, Ulica slobode 7, tel. 42 10 07/ 0800 36 53 65, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Splitska banka - Societe Generale Group Ruđera Boškovića 16, tel. 30 42 22/ 0800 33 32 23, fax 30 42 00, www.splitskabanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hypo Alpe Adria Bank E-3/F-3, Poljička cesta 39, Real estate Arcadia J-2/K-2, Rokova 2, tel. 48 22 32/ 091 549 21 58, arcadia.nekretnine@st.t-com.hr, www.arcadiacro. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Benelli nekretnine D-2/E-2, Dubrovačka 3a, tel. 53 68 23/ 099 200 01 15, fax 53 68 24, info@benelliestates. com, www.benelliestates.com. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Consiliator J-2/J-3, Hrvojeva 10, tel. 36 02 60, fax 36 02 61, consiliator@consiliator.hr, www.consiliator.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Trgostan J-2/K-1, Tolstojeva 32, tel. 34 31 05; 36 21 40/ 091 201 71 60; 098 89 17 69, fax 36 21 40, trgostan@trgostan.hr, www.trgostan.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Delicatessen 00/ 31 48 02, fax 48 88 64, enoteka.terra@st.htnet. hr, www.vinoteka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. 34 61 38, www.kras.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel./fax 34 27 19, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. 34 80 31, enoteka.terra@st.htnet.hr, www.vinoteka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. 31 48 Tax free heaven Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form. Music Aquarius Cd Shop J-2, Dominisova 4, tel. 34 40 95, www.cedeterija.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Souvenirs 10:00 - 18:00. A Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. 34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 46 liFeStyle DireCtory English books & newspapers 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A International book shop I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 21, tel. 34 40 11, fax 36 18 64. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Split Dalmatia County 47 Algoritam I-2, Bajamontijeva 2, tel. 34 80 30, fax 32 19 00, split@algoritam.hr, www,algoritam.hr. QOpen Hospital Bolnica Križine F-3, Šoltanska 1, tel. 55 71 11, www. st-host.org/kbsplit. Klinički Bolnički Centar (Firule) E-3, Spinčićeva 1, tel. 55 61 11, www.st-host.org/kbsplit. Dry cleaners & Laundries Self Service Laundrette H-2, Šperun 1, tel. 31 58 88, www.lifejacketadventures.com. Self service: 25kn - laundering, 20kn - drying and 5kn - cleaning powder. 75kn per machine for leaving your clothes for them to do the job for you (laundring, drying but not ironing).QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Italy (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. 34 81 55/ 34 45 77, fax 36 12 68, consolato.spalato@esteri.it, www.consspalato. esteri.it. Q Open daily 09:00-12:00,Thr 09:00-12:00 and 15:30-17:30, Sat and Sun cls. Sweden (Consulate) K-1/K-2, Držićeva 8, tel. 33 82 34, fax 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands (Consulate) D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 1, tel./fax 31 23 99, silvanakondic@net.hr, www.netherlandsembassy.hr. For rest of the week make arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. UK (Consulate) I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. 34 60 07, fax 36 29 05, britishconsulat-st@st.t-com.hr, www.britishembassy.gov. uk/croatia. QOpen 08:00 - 15:30, Tue 08:00 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lunch break daily from 13:00-14:00 except Fri. Castles of Split Dalmatia County Visitors to the Split region shouldn’t just restrict themselves to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of the most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays host to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop castles. Given the region’s turbulent history - including centuries of warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and Venetians - it’s no surprise that brooding battle-scarred ruins form such a prominent part of the local landscape. One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café right below the fortress. Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the for tress.The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland. Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the west, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela” (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Kambelovac, etc.). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. All are accessible by car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront. Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has been well restored. Trogir’s Venetian heritage (the Venetians held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in 1420) is clearly evident from the town’s lovely architecture. If you go 21 km in the opposite direction (southwest) on route 8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at the mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two castle/ fortresses above the town that have spectacular views.The lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about 300 steps from Subić Street in the centre of town. There is a gate about a quarter of the way up that is sometimes inexplicably locked. Ask at the town’s tourist office first and they’ll probably send Vets tel. 56 74 03/ 098 32 01 20, fax 56 76 67, veterina@ inet.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Veterinarska stanica Split E-2, Šibenska 9, tel. 56 98 04; 56 97 89/ 099 216 99 61, fax 54 32 77, veterinarska.stanica.split@st.t-com.hr, w w w. veterinarskastanica-split.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Foreign representations 88/ 091 358 48 88, fax 35 87 99, nenad.muskatelo1@ st.t-com.hr. Must make an announcement before you come. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Finland (Consulate) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel./fax 34 52 75, tel. 091 339 12 12, milan.senjanovic@vip.hr, www.finland.hr. Arrange a meeting over the phone. Germany (Consulate) I-1, Svačićeva 4, tel. 40 93 47, fax 48 64 01, d.konsul@honorarkonsulsplit.hr, www. zagreb.diplo.de. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Chile (Consulate) E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2, Boktuljin put bb, tel. 35 24 01, fax 35 24 07. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Veterinarska stanica Filipović E-2, Kukuljevićeva 1, Denmark (Consulate) B-3, Supilova 10, tel. 35 84 Pharmacies D-2, Gundulićeva 52, tel./fax 34 80 74, ljekarnasplit@ ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr. QOpen 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. A Ljekarna splitsko-dalmatinske županije Lučac E-3, Pupačićeva 4, tel. 53 31 88, ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit. hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Ljekarna splitsko-dalmatinske županije Dobri www.inyourpocket.com someone to unlock it. From the top of Mirabela’s tower keep there’s a sweeping view of Omiš, the river, the sea, and the steep sided mountains that form the sides of the canyon. It’s believed that the Kačić family, feudal lords of Omiš during the 12th and 13th centuries, built Mirabela in the early 1200s. Pirates used Mirabela as their lair during medieval times. The Venetians acquired Omiš in 1444 and over time expanded and refortified the redoubt. Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic view by hiking from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also called “Fortica”), a fortress/castle about 500 meters above the town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail, which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure to go straight (don’t turn right) when you reach the fork in the road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and emhrasures are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omiš, which is a major tourist center. It’s a shame that most visitors never venture beyond the beach. From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cetina River 18 km. to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after another as this road winds through the canyon. There is a fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines above the ruin somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it’s still worth checking out Zadvarje’s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between 1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured and refortified by the Turks in 1502. There is a myth that the ghost of Murat, the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he assaulted, roams the castle walls during full moon. Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 48 Split Dalmatia County Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38 km from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote into the Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think nothing of stopping their car in the middle of street in town to chat with their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic jam that might develop. Another distinctive feature of this hilltop town is its two sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the Red Lake. Sheer cliffs tower 150 meters above the Blue Lake, which is just above the Imotski town center. It takes about 10 minutes to climb up the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of the cliffs.There is a great view of the coastal mountains from the ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably first used for defensive purposes by the Romans. Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950. From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of local government and refortifying the castle. It wasn’t until 1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a military purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants in Imotski. On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is a nicely restored castle above the town centre, accessible via an unusually well marked trail in about 15 - 20 minutes. There’s a wonderful view in every direction from the castle. Only 10 km. north and west of Im otski on a secondary (but paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice Castle/for t re s s i s spectacularly situated on a rocky peak above the village. First mentioned in written records from th e 12 th cen tur y, i t’s hard to imagine how it could have b een buil t th ere, bu t i t cer tainl y commands a good view of the surrounding region. O nl y t h e h ardi e s t of climbers should attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope. About 80 km north and west from Imotski via route 60 and then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačvina. It’s easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the top of a hill above the village. It’s an easy, 10 minutes ascent to the castle. There are spectacular views in every direction from Čačvina, which sits at an elevation of 707 meters. The Nelipčić family built Čačvina in 1371. The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians and Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times Čačvina sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not be able to get an espresso there, but Čačvina’s remoteness is one of its charms. The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland is Sinj, which is only 20 km northwest of Čačvina or 34 km north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During the century before and for several centuries after the birth of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area. Sinj’s fortifications are first found in written records in about the year 950. It’s believed the exsiting fortress was built in the 14th century. The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in 1686, and the following year a famous image of the Madonna known as the Lady of Sinj (“Sinjska Gospa”) was returned to Sinj. In August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the Sinj fortress. Although outnumbered, the inhabitants of Sinj defeated the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents were convinced that the presence of the Madonna painting help them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is, therefore, especially significant for the residents of Sinj, which has several hotels and many restaurants. Split Dalmatia County 49 About 15 km northwest of Sinj lies the village and fortress of Potravlje (also known as “Potravnik” or “Travnik”). It commands a stupendous view of coastal mountains to the west, high peaks in Bosnia and the valley occupied by 30 km long Lake Peručko to the north. To reach Potravlje you take Route 1 north from Sinj. After about 10 km. you turn west (left) on a paved road; there is a sign pointing the way to Satrić. After 5.3 km you will see a pink house on the right and on the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point and go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of the village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is no discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through the low scrub brush and grass. Like Čačvina, Potravlje is a rustic but lovely spot. Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records in 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging the sources for the castle’s water wells, thereby cutting off the defendents’ water supply, were they able to capture it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th century.Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika. Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go from the town church 1.5 km up the road towards Maovica and Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or a 20 - 25 minute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle. The Hrvatinić family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s. As with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians expelled them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an invasion much more recently as well. During the Balkan Wars of the early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb Krajina for four years. During Operation Storm the Croatian Army pushed the Serbs out in August 1995.The large Adriatic islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis also lie within Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of alluring castles in those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the offshore string of Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up in a few minutes from the town center.There is an interesting tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as “Tor” on some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about how those huge blocks could have nbeen raised to such a height and pointed so neatly so many centuries ago. The tower is accessible in about 20 - 30 minutes via a marked trail ascending from a dirt road that runs from the village of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel entrance. From the tower there is a breathtaking view of Brač Island to the north. A fortress on the same ridge about a kilometre to the east also is clearly visible. If you have binoculars you may be able to spot the naturist beaches on Jerolim and Stipanska islands off the coast. Brač, too, has a number of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages and interior. For details please see the article about Brač activities in this issue of In Your Pocket. Islands Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 50 Split Dalmatia County homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone. Brač What to do on the island of Brač in One Day, Three days or One Week you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip’s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules. Assumin g your sch edule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your a c ti vi ti e s from what’s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. I ts museum has a c oll e c ti on of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto pain tin g of t h e Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monaster y to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaća (Pustinja Blaća), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač’s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaća indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km Split Dalmatia County from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don’t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle’s suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaća’s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation. Hikers also migh t wan t to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from the peak are terrific.If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. 51 Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/ passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest. If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer (not as shown in the photo below!), especially with younger people. It’s also a popular sport for windsurfing. If If you are going to be on Brač for a week there’s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up.Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer’s dream. There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery. Restaurants: Villa Gumonca, MircaSupetar, tel. 63 02 37 / 095 905 42 92, Konoba Kopačina, Donji Humac bb, tel. 64 77 07), Agritourisam Bilić, Gornje Podbarje, Bol, tel. 63 51 05, Agritourisam Rojen, Uvala Luke- Pučišća, tel. 098 867292. Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad (Jadrolinija - Ferryline - Stari Grad, tel. 76 50 48) or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city.If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar (Jadrolinija Hvar, tel. 74 11 32). If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 52 Split Dalmatia County Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century.On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić.Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo i Duga. Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected. The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns. Hvar city bestows i ts b eau t y up on wide-eyed travellers wi th m e di eval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) an d Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) an d t h eir hill top for tresse d walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below.The pri s on dun ge on inside the Španjol For tress is qui te impressi ve and if you take a p e ek below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners!Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by domestic masters Karlić i Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble of civil architecture (1579-1611) a top an older one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley. On the floor ab ove is th e public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semi tecolo. Th e Benedictine monaster y in H var is well known for its craf tesmanship of uni qu e la c e h e wn from agave fibres. Hvar is by far the sunniest islands in the Adriatic and it falls under one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to avoid with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusja to Hvar presents a exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island.A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration. The old city (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petra Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan). Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries. The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not far from Jelsa, you’ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness. Split Dalmatia County Only 7km east of Jelsa, you’ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they’re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to its small bridges with which it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is worthy a look in as is fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja.To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of live stone) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You’ll come across a gorgeous view of islands Šćedro, Korčula and half-island Pelješac before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you’d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you’ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali’ (Small Blue), located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala.On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches.The island’s eastern side lies the small port of 53 Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line). Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and well preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side. The island’s mountains aren’t quite high, however, with their coastal mounts and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker’s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising (contact Hvar Adventure, tel. 71 78 13), as too for diving (Marinesa, tel. 74 17 92 or Viking, tel. 74 25 29). Hvar along with the island Vis, are the hub of winery in these areas, whose history stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of autochthonous sorts of wines - ‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can never be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 54 Split Dalmatia County wine ‘Zlatan Plavac’ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), th e Duboković estate (Med vid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović, P.Z. and Svirče estates. Restaurants: Macondo, Groda bb, Hvar, tel. 74 28 50, Konoba Menego, Groda bb, Hvar tel. 74 20 36, Yakša, Hektorovićeva bb, tel. 71 72 02 / 091 277 07 70, Club Lounge Terramarique, Križna luka 6, tel. 74 24 40, Jurin Podrum, Duolnja kola 10, Stari Grad, tel. 76 58 04, Vidikovac Levanda, Velo Grablje bb, tel. 091 566 37 23, Luna, Petra Hektorovića 1, tel. 74 14 00, Dionis, Pakleni otoci, Sv. Klement, tel. 74 17 26. Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years of enclosure and forbidden zones for foreigners in the Communist Yugoslavia, the island’s nature has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by watery waves of indescribable beauty. The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac. Split Dalmatia County The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Ciprian) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the half-island of Prirovo and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža, is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below. The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form. Without the diving and swimming in the Modra špilja (Blue Grotto), the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and 55 Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent opportunity to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms. The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency (tel. 71 10 32). The two largest areas on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split. For information: 71 31 53 or 099 673 14 66. For all further information related to the island of Vis, contact tel: 71 70 17, tzg-visa@st.t-com.hr or tel. 71 34 55, tzg-komize@st.t-com.hr Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac and Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city. Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorai and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the marvel that it is. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience! It’s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let’s not forget the island’s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel. Restaurants: Peronospora Blues, tel. 091 201 28 25, a Vis wine tavern run by the Poduje family which falls into an A-class wine bar. Restoran Pojoda, Don Cvijetka Marasovića 8, (meaning a calm, safe port in the island’s dialect) tel. 71 15 75, Villa Kaliopa, V. Nazora 32, tel. 71 17 55 in the town of Vis. Doručak kod Tihane, Obala sv. Jurja bb, tel. 71 84 72 translates as ‘Breakfast at Tihane’s’, a charming restaurant on the Vis waterfront. Pizza Karijola, Šetalište vički boj 4, tel. 71 14 33 woodfire oven pizza. Jastožera, Gundulićeva 6, tel. 71 38 59 in Komiža, where you can select your lobster fresh from it’s swimming tank which is located adjacent to the terrace of the tavern. Konoba pol murvom, tel. 71 51 17 which is located in the woman’s head (Žena Glava) in inner Vis. Konoba Stončica, Uvala Stončica 1, tel. 71 16 69 located in the bay of the same name and Konoba Bako, Gundulićeva 1, in Komiža, tel. 71 37 42. Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 56 Split Dalmatia County While it’s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the city make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and the history of the town can be explored in th e remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the city against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. And when you’re finished exploring the natural beauty of the city and its history, the city’s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš. SHopping 57 as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path. Surroundings Makarska Riviera A stay in the Riviera offers all of the things you can find on any normal Croatian holiday (lovely nature, crystal clear water, etc.), along with a few added bonuses that might make it particularly attractive for some visitors. The first of these things might be the Riviera’s namesake, the city of Makarska. The main highlight of this small coastal city might well be its promenade, the palm-lined Marineta street, where cafés, bars and shops keep watch over the nearby harbour. The city’s horizon is dominated by nearby Biokovo, a must-see for visitors to Makarska. At 1762 metres, Biokovo is the highest mountain in Dalmatia and is marked with over thirty hiking trails of varying difficulty and abounds with caves, the remains of ancient villages, all sorts of wildlife scampering about and even a botanical garden, making it an absolute haven for hiking enthusiasts. From the top of the mountain on a clear day, you can see every island in Dalmatia stretching out beneath you. If that’s not enough to satiate your travel hunger, the rest of the Riviera is dotted with a number of tiny, quiet towns that are numerous enough to avoid becoming bogged down by the summer tourist explosion. Towns such as Baška voda, Podgora and Gradac could be ideal stopping points on a meandering trip through the Riviera, with plenty of time taken to soak up the sun, laze on beautiful beaches and get to know a bit about life in each place along the way. Omiš Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, th e Cetina River winds a tortuous course through the countr yside until finally emptying into the Adriatic. The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge and near the small Dalmatian city of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque city that is the center of what has b e come known as “th e Omiš Riviera.” However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called “arrows,” so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river. Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the city’s role as crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the city the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii.” Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the city. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman city located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the city a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Split In Your Pocket 58 Split Dalmatia County churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from th e 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Por tal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240. Th e cul tural an d histori cal significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world. Similar to Spli t, i ts neighbor city just a short distan ce away, Trogir is yet another Croatian ci t y t h a t p os s e s s e s incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which have been built upon by a progression of generations durin g the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, G othi c, Baro qu e an d Renaissance architecture Trogir and ar twork, ju xtaposed wi th modern stores and shop fronts, making the ci t y a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras. Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its impor tance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797. While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the Split In Your Pocket 60 Street regiSter Catanijin put C-3 Cesta mira F-2 Cosmijeva I-2 Cvjetna E-3 Čiovska B-3 Čulića dvori D-2/D-3 Čulića dvori J-2 Ćiril-Metodova D-2 Ćiril-Metodova I-2 Dinarska E-2 Dinka Šimunovića F-3 Dioklecijanova J-2 Dobrić I-2 Dobrilina E-3/F-3 Domaldova I-2 Dominisova J-2 Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2 Domovinskog rata J-1 Doverska F-3/G-3 Drage Ivaniševića E-2 Dragovode G-2 Dražanac C-3 Dražanac H-3 Drniška E-1/F-1 Drvenička B-3 Držićeva D-2 DržićevaK-1/K-2 Dubrovačka D-2/E-2 Dumanića K-3 Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3 Duvanjska D-3 Fra Bonina C-2 Fra Grge Martića E-2 Fra Luje Maruna K-2 Franje Račkog D-2 Franje Račkog K-1 Gajeva C-2 Gajeva H-1 Getaldićeva F-2 Glagoljaška D-3 Glagoljaška K-2 Gorička D-2 Gorička J-1/K-1 Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1 Gospinica E-3 Grada Antofagaste C-2 Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1 Grge Novaka E-2 Gundulićeva D-2 Harambašićeva C-2 Harambašićeva H-1 Hektorovićeva E-3 Hercegovačka E-1 Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2 Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2 Hrvojeva D-3 Hrvojeva J-2/J-3 Hvarska D-3 Hvarska K-3 I. G. Kovačića D-3 Ilićev prolaz I-2 Iločka E-2 Imotska F-1 Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3 Istarska D-2 Istarska J-1/J-2/K-1 Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3 Ivana Raosa F-1 Jadranska D-3 Jakova Gotovca F-2 Janjevska F-2/G-2 Jerina H-2 Jerolima Kavanjina I-1 Jesenička K-3 Jobova C-2 Kačićeva D-2 Kačićeva I-1 Kamenita C-2 Kamenita H-1/H-2 Kapićeva E-3 Karamanova C-2 Karlovačka E-2 Kaštelanova E-3 Kaštelanska C-2 Katalinićev prilaz D-3 Kijevska F-2 Klaićeva poljana I-2 Klarina D-3 Klarina K-3 Kliška D-2 Kliška J-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mislava K-2 Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3 Kneza Višeslava K-2 Kninska D-2 Kninska I-2 Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2 Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C2/C-3 Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2 Kopilica E-1 Kotorska G-3 Kozjačka C-2 Kozjačka H-1/H-2 Kragićeva H-1 Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2 Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3 Kralja Tomislava D-2 Kralja Tomislava I-2/J-2 Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3 Kralja Zvonimira J-3 Kranjčevićeva E-3 Krbavska F-2 Krešimirova J-2 Križanićeva E-2 Križine F-3 Krležina E-2 Kroz smrdečac F-3 Krste Odaka E-3 Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2 Kruševića gumno J-1 Kukočeva K-3 Kukuljevićeva E-2 Kumičićeva E-1 Kupreška F-1 Kuzmanićeva K-3 Kuzmića F-1 Kuzmića K-3 Kvaternikova D-2 Laginjina E-2 Lazarica E-3 Lička F-1 Livanjska D-2 Livanjska J-1 Lovački put G-2 Lovretska D-2 Lovrićeve skale E-3 Lučica C-2 Lučićeva D-2 Ljubićeva F-3 Ljubuška F-1 Makarska G-3 Mandalinski put C-2 Manđerova Manuška poljana J-1 Marangunićevo šetalište A-3 Marasovića C-3 Marasovića H-3 Marjanski put B-3 Marjanski tunel C-3 Marmontova D-2 Marmontova I-2/J-1 Marulićeva J-2 Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2 Matije Gupca D-3 Matije Ivanića E-2 Matoševa C-2 Matoševa H-1 Street regiSter Matošića D-2 Matošića I-2 Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2 Mediteranski put C-1 Mejaši I G-2 Mejaši II G-2 Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3 Mile Gojsalića D-3 Milićeva C-2/C-3 Milićeva H-2 Mišina F-2 Mitnička E-3 Moliških Hrvata F-3 Mosećka E-2/F-2 Mosorska D-3 Mosorska K-3 Mostarska F-1 Mostine G-1 Mrčelina I-2 Na Križice E-3 Na Toć J-3 Narodni trg D-3 Narodni trg I-2 Nazorova C-2/C-3 Nazorova H-1 Nelipćeva D-3 Nelipićeva I-2 Nepotova D-3 Neslanovac F-1 Nigerova I-2 Ninska F-2 Nodilova D-2 Nodilova I-2/J-2 Njegoševa C-3 Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga preporoda D-3 Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga preporoda I-2/I-3 Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3 Obala Kneza Domagoja J-3 Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3 Obrov D-3 Obrov I-2 Odeska G-3 Omiška D-3 Omiška K-3 Osječka E-2/E-3 Ostravska G-2 Ozaljska F-2/G-2 Palmina C-3 Palmina H-2/H-3 Palmotićeva D-3/E-3 Papalićeva J-2 Papandopulova F-3 Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2 Pazinska F-2 Penića H-2 Perića C-3 Perišićeva C-3 Perišićeva H-2 Perivoj Ane Roje F-2 Pervanova K-3 Petra Kružića I-2 Petrićeva K-2/K-3 Petrinjska E-2 Petrova D-3 Petrova J-3/K-3 Pistura I-2 Plančićeva C-2 Plinarska C-2 Plinarska H-1 Plitvička E-1 Pod Kosom C-3 Podgorska C-2 Podgorska H-1 Podrum J-2/J-3 Pojišanska D-3 Pojišanska K-3 Poljička cesta E-3/F-3 Poljudsko šetalište C-1 Popovićeva I-2 Porinova D-2 Porinova I-1 Požeška E-2 Pujanke F-2 Puntarska C-2 Pupačićeva E-3 Put Brda F-1 Put Brodarice D-2 Put Dragovoda G-2 Put Duja E-1 Put Firula E-3 Put Glavičina D-2 Put iza nove bolnice E-3 Put Meja C-3 Put Mostina G-1 Put Pazdigrada G-3 Put Plokita D-2 Put Ravnih Njiva F-1 Put Sjeverne Luke F-1 Put Skalica C-2/D-2 Put Smokvice F-1 Put Supavla D-1 Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3 Put Trstenika F-3 Put Žnjana F-3/G-3 R. Boškovića E-3/F-3 R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2 Radmilovića C-2 Radmilovića H-1 Radnička E-2 Radovanova D-3 Radovanova J-3 Radunica D-3 Radunica J-2 Ramska E-1 Reića C-3 Reića H-2 Reljkovićeva D-2 Reljkovićeva K-2 Rendićeva C-2 Riječka J-1 Rodrigina I-2/J-2 Rokova D-3 Rokova J-2/K-2 Rooseweltova E-3 Sarajevska F-1 Savska D-2/E-2 Senjska C-3 Senjska H-2 Severova D-3 Severova J-3 Sinovčića H-2 Sinjska D-2 Sinjska J-1 Siriščevića H-2/H-3 Skradinska G-3 Slavićeva C-2 Slavićeva J-1 Slavonska E-2 Smiljanićeva D-2 Smiljanićeva K-2 Solinska F-1/G-1 Solurat C-3 Solurat H-3 Spinčićeva E-3 Spinutska C-2 Sredmanuška J-2 Stagnja H-2 Starčevićeva D-2 Stari Pazar D-3 Stari Pazar J-3 Stepinčeva E-2 Stinice E-1 Stoci G-1 Stonska G-3 Studinova F-2 Sućidar E-2 Sukoišanska D-2 Supilova B-3 61 A. Cesarca C-3 Ante Petravića E-1/F-1 Antuna Branka Šimića E-3 Arapova C-2 Arapova H-2 Babina C-3 Babina H-3 Bakotićeva C-2 Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3 Ban Mladenova H-2 Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2 Barakovićeva E-3 Barešićeva F-2/G-2 Barićeva H-2 Bartola Kašića C-3 Begovićeva C-3 Ben Berislavićeva C-2 Benkovačka E-2 Bernarda Vukasa E-2 Bihaćka D-2 Bihaćka J-1 Bijankinijeva D-3 Bijankinijeva K-3 Bilanova H-2 Bilice I G-1 Bilice II G-1 Biogradska G-3 Biokovska D-2 Biokovska K-1 Biserova C-2/D-2 Biserova I-1 Bjelovarska E-2 Blatine E-3 Blaža Trogiranina B-3 Bleiburških žrtava D-2 Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2 Bolska D-2 Bolska K-1 Borčićeva C-3 Borčićeva H-2 Bosanska I-2 Botićevo šetalište C-3 Bože Peričića E-3 Bračka F-3 BračkaUvala Zenta E-3 Brajevića prilaz H-3 Branimirova obala C-3 Branimirova obala H-3 Bregovita D-3 Bribirska D-2 Bribirska J-1 Brune Bušića E-2 Bubalova K-3 Bukovčeva D-3 Bulićeva J-2 Buvnina I-2 Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 62 Street regiSter Sustipanski put C-3 Sutroičin put C-1/D-1 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2 Svačićeva D-2 Svačićeva I-1 Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3 Svetog Križa H-2 Svilajska E-2 Š. Bačvice D-3 Šegvićeva J-3/K-3 Šenoina C-3 Šenoina H-2 Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2 Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3 Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B-2/C-2 Šibenska E-2 Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3 Škrape E-3 Šoltanska F-3 Šopova G-2 Šperun C-3 Šperun H-2 Šubićeva I-2 Table D-2 Teslina C-2 Težački put G-2 Tijardovićeva F-2 Tolstojeva D-2/D-3 Tolstojeva J-2/K-1 Tomića Stine H-2 Tončićeva D-2/D-3 Tončićeva I-2 Trg Braće Radić I-2 Trg Gaje Bulata I-1 Trg Republike C-3/D-3 Trg Republike I-2 Triljska F-1 Trogirska D-2/D-3 Trogirska I-2 Trondheimska F-2/F-3 Trpimirova D-3 Trpimirova J-3 Trstenik F-3 Tršćanska D-2 Trumbićeva obala C-3 Trumbićeva obala H-3 Trumbučac J-3/K-3 Ulica Slobode D-2 Uskočka E-3 Street regiSter Uvala Baluni C-3 V. Krstulovića E-3 V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3 Valpovačka E-2 Varaždinska E-2 Velebitska D-2/E-2 Vesanovića K-3 Vetranićeva C-3 Vidilica D-3 Vijugasta H-1 Viktora Vide G-2 Vinka Draganje E-2 Vinkovačka E-2 Vinodolska F-2 Viskotina K-3 Visoka F-2 Viška D-3 Vjekoslava Paraća E-2 63 Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008 64 Street regiSter Vladimira Gortana H-2 Vrančićeva E-2 Vranjički put E-1/F-1 Vrgoračka G-2 Vrh Kmana E-2 Vrh Lučac D-3 Vrh Lučac K-3 Vrh Visoke F-2 Vrlička F-1 Vrzov Dolac D-3 Vrzov Dolac K-2/K-3 Vukasovićeva D-2 Vukasovićeva J-2 Vukovarska D-2/E-2 Vukovarska K-1 Washingtonova D-2 Washingtonova K-1 Zadarska G-1 Zadarska I-2 Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21 Zagrebačka D-2 Zagrebačka J-2/J-3 Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2 Zlodrina poljana D-3 Zlodrina poljana J-3 Zoranićeva D-2 Zoranićeva I-1 Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2 Zupina F-2 Zvizdina J-3 Žmovnička D-3/E-3 Street regiSter 65 Split In Your Pocket Summer 2008