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Wines of Zagreb County
Wine is one of hidden jewels of inland Croatia. Not so many people know (yet) that Zagreb County is a prolific wine producer. But that’s about to change, because wines from the here have been winning more than the lion’s share of awards at local and international exhibitions.
The hills around Zagreb are home to two types of wine you won’t find anywhere else: Portugizac, a light red with a young wine character (a little like Beaujolais Nouveau); and a delicate, refreshing white: Kraljevina. The home of Portugizac is the Plešivica mountain near Samobor, while the Kraljevina comes from the hills northwest of Zagreb, near the town of Sveti Ivan Zelina. There is an abundance of more familiar wine varieties too: Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Rizling (Riesling), Rizvanac and Zeleni Silvanac (respectively known as Müller Thurgau and Grüner Silvaner in German-speaking wine producing areas) are just a few.
Wine routes of Zagreb County
What are these? Well, there are two Wine Routes: one on Plešivica and one near Sveti Ivan Zelina. You drive along, taking in the view, and signs direct you to local winemakers, who will guide you through their cellars, sometimes offering local specialities to complement your wine-tasting experience.
The new law forbidding drivers to drink any alcohol at all obviously limits the experience somewhat if you’re behind the wheel. And unfortunately, you’re not allowed to ride a bicycle under the influence, either, nor a horse, mule or zebra. Sadly, the wine cellars have no accommodation, although we give you a couple of hotels nearby below.
Whether you’re drinking or not, it’s definitely worth your while to take a drive through the wine routes. The steep slopes of the foothills covered with vineyards are a captivating sight, and in some of the picturesque villages it’s as if time has stood still.
How to do it
Your best bet is to head to the Zagreb County Tourist Board office at Preradovićeva 42, (tel. 487 36 65) open 08:00-16:00 Mon-Fri. There, you can pick up a map showing both wine routes, and the location and contact details of every wine producer.
Wines to try
Mladina (Plešivica) is one of the biggest producers locally. The attractive cellars were founded by the aristocratic Erdödy family, who were winemakers as far back as the 18th century, and their wines are regular award-winners. Their Traminac 2001 kasna berba (late harvest) won a special mention in Verona this year, and the 2000 Rajnski Rizling won a silver medal in Brussels.
Also in Plešivica, Velimir Korak’s Chardonnay 2001 Sur Lie scored highly in last year’s judging by the leading Croatian wine magazine. His family also offers great food in their cellars. Drago Režek is president of the association of producers of the wine brand Portugizac Plešivica. His Sauvignon is doing really well on the market at the moment, his Zeleni Silvanac (Grüner Silvaner) is a lovely wine, and his family is a friendly bunch. Around Sveti Ivan Zelina, we can recommend Stjepan Jarec for a warm welcome and excellent wine.
The Martinje Festival
The best time to enjoy Portugizac is autumn. The wine is best drunk chilled, and goes well with food of the season such as roast chestnuts, pumpkin, and roast goose. An excellent time to sample Zagreb County wines is on the Martinje festival (St Martin’s Day, the patron saint of winemakers). This falls on 11 November, and is the day when the grape must is blessed before it’s made into wine.
The festival is celebrated differently in every wine-growing town, and sometimes turns into a whole christening pantomime, with a “bishop”, who will ask a “godfather” to make portentous promises on behalf of the young wine, e.g. pledging to induce merriment and good cheer. Food is served aplenty, wine is quaffed and songs are sung in honour of fermented fluids. Celebrations are usually held in the evening on 10– call nearer the time to check.
Towns where you’re sure to find something going on: Jastrebarsko, the largest town near the Plešivica wine route.