Zagreb has, alongside its share of plush multiplex cinemas, retained a fair number of old-fashioned picture houses that will delight nostalgia freaks as well as fans of European art cinema and other non-mainstream genres. Even better than that, a welcome side effect of the past couple of years of recession has been a revival of cinema-going, with a brace of rather unique new cinemas opening in these crisis-stricken years. If you don't happen to speak Croatian, the good news is that almost all films are subtitled, not dubbed, so you'll be able to follow the action if you understand the original language.


The first cinema screening more or less as we know it in Zagreb took place in 1896, advertised by the slogan “Living pictures shown here!” Those famous pictures of a locomotive steaming full tilt towards the audience were shown to the dismay of much of the audience, who were then cheered up by a tableau depicting a row between a husband and wife, with the latter robustly administering a broom to the rump of the former to the general delight of the audience. Early public screenings were usually held in the open air or in circus-tents. In 1906 Zagreb got its first permanent cinema, at the spot where the city’s Hotel Dubrovnik now stands.


The next cinema to open, in the same year, was today’s Kino Europa, then called the Cyril and Methodius Bioscope. Then cinemas started popping up like mushrooms all over the city. Some of them are still in use today: for example, Kino Tuškanac, then called the Olimp, also opened in the early part of the 20th century; and Kino Zagreb stands on the site where a former cinema, Kino Metropol, was demolished in 1931.


As in most modern cities many old picture houses have closed down without trace, but in some cases the buildings have been saved and continue to be used for cultural purposes thanks to their unique design, which makes them ideal for use as theatres. So in the former Helios you’ll now find the Gavella drama theatre, while the Apolo, later known as Kino Croatia, is now the Kerempuh satirical theatre.


If you fancy sampling what the wonderful world of Zagreb cinema has to offer today, here’s what you’ll find where.





Kino Europa – An attractive old cinema, café and Saturday evening dance venue, a favourite haunt of the Zagreb literati. The cinema is managed by the same people who run the Zagreb Film Festival, and apart from enjoying the festival here every October, you can catch all kinds of established and cutting-edge festivals, such as the Subversive Film Festival, Animafest (animated film) and Queer Zagreb screenings. Follow them on Facebook!






Kino Tuškanac – Almost entirely devoted to international art cinema, Tuškanac today hosts cycles from the most varied national cinemas and directors. This October there will be a cycle of award-winning Belgian films, followed by a cycle of contemporary Israeli film. In November you’ll be able to enjoy a review of Iberian-American film and a selection of excellent Malaysian titles. All of these can be enjoyed for the princely sum of 10kn per ticket.


Kino Grič -  This space is undergoing a revival as a cult meeting spot. In October, this older-style cinema serves as one of the venues of the Young Choreograhers’ Platform. There’s a funky café, and the basement club hosts DJ parties open ‘til 02:00 on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, featuring genres from dubstep through grime to 80s trash.


Cinestar -  The comfortable, modern cinemas in the Branimir Centar and Avenue Mall shopping complexes usually screen the latest blockbusters. However, the Branimir Centar venue additionally hosts the Cinefest cycle of European productions.


Movieplex – This modern cinema in the smart Kaptol Centar shopping mall is home to one of the cinema-going public’s favourite events, the annual Czech Film Week.


Art kino KIC – KIC is the Zagreb Centre for Culture and Information, a hub for cultural activities of many kinds. The Art Cinema focuses on non-commercial film, documentary and animated film, and shows cycles by various directors and from the archives.


Dokukino http://www.dokukino.net/ - In 2009 a small former cinema was transformed into a cosy venue, complete with colourful armchairs and nice café, specialising in the genre of documentary film. It was an immediate hit. At the time of writing, the schedule included topics as diverse as love, identity, Ernest Hemingway look-alikes, battles between nations and with multinationals. Many of the films have both Croatian and English subtitles.


Art-Kino Metropolis at The Museum of Contemporary Art – Croatia’s first digital art cinema in the brand-new Museum shows a carefully selected repertoire of films from around the world. Each feature is preceded by a Croatian short film, a genre which has done well in recent years at international festivals. There will also be an excellent programme of children's films featuring titles from Croatia and abroad.