There are 650km2 of vineyards in the state of Croatia utilising land that is ideal for vines and taking full advantage of the favourable climate. There are essentially two distinct wine regions; the generally arid and barren southern and western areas of the country consisting of the coast and the limestone karst mountains just inland and the richer, more fertile plains of the interior. Essentially whites dominate production inland – the most famous of which is the lightweight Graševina, whilst rich and powerful reds, such as Babić from the island of Hvar are baked in the coastal sunshine. A claim to fame is found in the form of Mali Plavac, (literally ‘Small Blue’ – referring to the appearance of the ideal grape), which is transformed into excellent reds such as Dingac and Postup from the Pelješac Peninsula in southern Dalmatia. It is now accepted that this variety of grape is the original progenitor of Zinfandel – a mystery that had gone back for a century and had endured Italian claims via the Primitivo strain. For decent and bargain-priced wine when out and about in bars and restaurants, ask for open domestic wine that comes in half or full litre jugs or by the glass.