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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps PRAGUE October - November 2008 Bollywood Strings of Autumn N°47 - 100 Kč www.inyourpocket.com India visits Prague Beautiful fall sounds Enjoy the tempting variety of culinary delights in our stylish yet casual Brasserie. Brasserie Praha Opening hours Breakfast: 6.30 a.m. - 11.00 a.m. Lunch and Dinner: 12.00 a.m. - 11.00 p.m. Reservations: 222 881 212 Prague Marriott Hotel V Celnici 8, Prague 1 www.marriottprague.com CONTENTS 5 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents The Basics Transport, money, language 8 10 19 27 40 Culture & Events Theatre - on stage and screen Where to stay Whatever your budget or needs Restaurants Guláš to gourmet and everything in between Cafés Historical slices of Czech life with cake Nightlife 42 Explore the depths of Prague’s bars and clubs Food & Drink around town Food & Drink in Malá Strana & The Castle 52 Food & Drink in Vinohrady & Žižkov 56 Food & Drink in Letná & Holešovice 61 Food & Drink in Smíchov 62 Adult entertainment 65 70 Sightseeing Essential sights The castle, the bridge, the clock Directory Shopping Business Lifestyle 80 81 82 85 Getting around Planes, trains and automobiles Maps & Index Street index City centre map City map Index 85 87 88-89 90 October - November 2008 Zhang Xiaogang Until 28 Dec. 6 FOREWORD Welcome to autumn in Prague. The air is crisp, the crowds have thinned, and all the cultural and not so cultural action is back. Beer gardens and sunning may have gone the way of summer, but football has returned as has the theatre and ballet. We’ll get you out on the streets with our Pocket Watch of film scenes around town, and in the evening catch a Strings of Autumn concert – the best musical gig in the city right now. Have your Prague visit and the sites you want to see all planned out? Prague Castle is probably high on your list, and you won’t be seeing it alone. The towering symbol of the city is the most popular tourist attraction in the country according to CzechTourism. Surprisingly, it’s not the Astronomical Clock or Charles Bridge, but the Prague Zoo which comes in at number two. Which is a very worthwhile place to visit – go see! Other Prague sites in the top ten included the National Museum and the Jewish Museum. In the city’s continuing efforts to clean up the streets (good for families, sad for stag parties) a new bill may regulate prostitution. Prostitutes would have to apply for a certificate to work as a prostitute (do you need any training or extra schooling for that?) pay taxes and insurance and get regular medical check-ups. They would only be allowed to work in brothels or visit clients. Currently, the country doesn’t have any real laws on its book regarding prostitution. Brothels however, are illegal, so most of them operate as hotels offering short-term accommodation, nightclubs or restaurants. Always check the menu posted outside an establishment before entering…just in case. Enjoy your Prague Autumn in all its colourful glory. FOREWORD Europe In Your Pocket Trust In Your Pocket Some have called it the scandal that rocked an industry, others have merely said that it was only a matter of time. Whatever it was labelled the revelations of a Lonely Planet author in April that he had never visited Columbia, - despite writing Lonely Planet’s guide to the country - sent shockwaves through the travel publishing industry, exposing an underbelly of cheating, plagiarism, poor rates of pay and outrageously bad management. We at In Your Pocket remained smug throughout. As we employ only locally based authors who are aware of our starvation-inducing salaries from the word go, we do not have to worry about authors not going to the places they write about. What’s more, they are backed up by a local team of researchers who check and double check every detail in every guide every issue. So the information you get from us is first hand and independently verified. That’s why The Times named In Your Pocket as one of ten guide book publishers you really can trust and rely on. 7 inyourpocket.com With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit newsstands before Christmas. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is our new, much improved website, coming soon to public beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket. com, and let us know what you think via email:editor@ inyourpocket.com is our address. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. 2000-2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is more than a print city guide. Besides our wide range of locally produced and indispensable booklets, we also publish guides to more than 50 cities in online format at our awardwinning website, inyourpocket.com. Here you will find a huge batch of web exclusive content, from features on obscure Romanians to how the residents of St. Petersburg propose marriage to each other. You will also find all the content from our city guides, and more besides: there are hundreds of hotel and restaurant reviews online we simply don’t have space for in print. 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There is also our lively, if off-beat, blog, where you can share the editorial team’s thoughts on politics, Bulgarian talent shows and global warming, as well as find bags of information on how an In Your Pocket guide is put together. Moscow: First at inyourpocket.com The full content of Moscow In Your Pocket - which will appear in print very soon - is now available online, at inyourpocket.com. Plus, by the time you open up the next issue of In Your Pocket, we will have launched our new-look website: packed with added features and easier than ever to use. Make sure you check inyourpocket. com regulalrly. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Prague In Your Pocket V Jámě 1, Praha 1, 110 00 Czech Republic tel. +420 224 94 76 01 fax +420 224 94 86 51 prague@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1213-2128 © PIYP s.r.o. Printed by Tisk Horák, Ústí nad Labem Published six times per year 20,000 copies Editorial Editor Jacy Meyer Contributors Jacy Meyer, Wendy Wrangham, Jeroen van Marle Layout & Design Tomáš Haman Photos Jeroen van Marle, Tomáš Haman, Wendy Wrangham, Ursula Schulz, Robin Divila, Ivana Ratajová Cover: Astronomical Clock © iStockPhoto Sales & Circulation General Manager Michal Jareš Sales & Circulation Manager Ivana Ratajová ivana@inyourpocket.com Publisher Craig Turp Testimonials “...very useful.” International Herald Tribune “...the latest travel tool to hit the Western European scene is slim, glossy, pocket-size and refreshingly low-tech. (...) indispensable, inexpensive, irreverent (...) more useful than anything you can download on your third generation mobile phone.” Wall Street Journal “...excellent tourist guides.” Los Angeles Times Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. “If you want a guide, this is the best one, and it fits in your pocket.” BBC Television “... invaluable...” The Guardian Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 8 BASICS Arriving in Prague By plane Prague’s airport is 20km from the city centre. A taxi to the town centre has just risen to around 600Kč even if you call a company to pick you up rather than take one from outside the terminal - reputable AAA have representatives in the arrivals hall now. Alternatively, use the ČEDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) that runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece of baggage, children under 10 free) and can be bought from the driver or from the booth in the arrival terminal. For an extra fee, ČEDAZ can also pick you up or drop you off at your hotel. The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119 (2-8 times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport and the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green) in about 20 minutes. From Dejvická it is just five stops to Muzeum in the centre of town. Bus N°100 whisks you to Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) from the airport in 13 minutes. There is a new Airport Express (AE) bus from Holešovice which runs every half an hour, whizzing you across the city in half an hour, whether you are arriving or departing. Special fares apply to this bus, tickets can only be bought from the driver and do not allow any transfers or other forms of transport. Tickets are 45/25Kč, dogs 25Kč and luggage is free. First & last buses from Holešovice 05:15 & 21:45, from the airport 04:40 & 21:10. A 26Kč transport ticket (plus a 10Kč one for big bags) will get you all the way into town or to the airport on all public transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can be bought at the friendly transport information desk in both arrival halls (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coinoperated machine at the airport bus stop, but not from the driver. You need to validate the ticket (once for the whole trip) in the machines on board the bus. Prague’s new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4 million more passengers a year to travel into Prague with the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants, shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which accommodates flights to and from Schengen countries. There is a left luggage facilty at the airport which doesn’t close and costs 60Kč per item per day. By train Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní nádraží (tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until you exit its underground nightmare. There is a tourist office (open 09:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in the centre of the lower hall of the two levels. Currency exchange offices abound, but for a better deal, use the ATM on the far left of the lower hall. Left luggage (úschova) requirements are filled by coin-operated lockers (10Kč /24hrs) and a guarded luggage depository opposite (closed for 30 minutes from 05:30, 12:00 and 17:30). Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to Muzeum or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova. The other station, Praha Holešovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is used by trains on the main Berlin Vienna/Bratislava route. The small hall holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sat, Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet café and several exchange and accommodation offices (open 06:00 - 23:00). It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum. For multilingual service, avoid the queues at the station counters and buy your train ticket at Wasteels or at the ČR agency. BASICS Public transport Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you won’t need the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot. Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be purchased from the numerous vending machines at all metro stations, major tram stops and news stands. You always need to validate your ticket yourself by stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on trams. The most common ticket is the 26Kč transfer ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes after validating (90 minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends and public holidays). The 18Kč non-transfer ticket is meant for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes, or in the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest you save yourself time by buying a handful of these on arrival. If you’re planning to stay a bit and explore, get the one-day pass (100Kč), a three-day pass (330Kč) or a five-day pass (500Kč). Children under 6 travel free; and tickets are half price up to 15 years old. Large pieces of luggage (including rucksacks) cost an extra 13Kč while dogs ride the rails for 26Kč. Fines for no validated tickets are 500Kč if paid on the spot or pay 1,000Kč later. The funicular railway and night tram tickets are 26Kč. otevřeno zavřeno vchod východ tam sem příjezd (train) přílet (plane) odjezd (train) odlet (plane) zde nekuřte zákaz kouření páni/muži dámy/ženy Trams trundle around town every few minutes; useful lines are N°22 and 23 which run from the centre up to the rear entrance of the castle, saving you the uphill walk. The metro connects the two main train stations and Florenc bus station to the centre and runs up to just after midnight, after which the night trams (the warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take over, zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5) every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at each stop and is generally correct assuming of course that some worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines. Beware of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, especially on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars; consider waiting for the next train if it looks squeezed. For more information visit Dopravní podnik’s excellent website with English and German information on routes and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 77. 9 CZ: A brief history 4th Century The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia). 6th Century 7th Century The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area. According to legend a princess named Libuše marries a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks of the Vltava. 10th Century Václav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept. 14th Century In 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in 1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants. 15th Century Learning the language Numbers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Days Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday jeden (m)/jedna (f) dva (m)/dvě (f) tři čtyři pět Signs šest Open sedm Closed osm Entrance devět Exit deset Push Pull Arrival pondělí úterý Departure středa čtvrtek No smoking pátek sobota Men’s toilets neděle Ladies toilets On 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and Protestant movement that adopts his name. 16th Century In 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands until 1918. 20th Century Basics Yes No Please/you’re welcome Thank you (very much) Excuse me Sorry Hello Goodbye I would like... Where is... ano ne prosím děkuji omluvte mě promiňte dobrý den nashledanou rád/ráda bych... kde je... Street Smarts Ulice street (ul.), but not usually used in an address Most bridge Náměstí square (Nám.) steps Schody Brány gates Nábřeží quay Travel Information Centre I-5, MMuzeum, tel. 296 19 18 17, www.dpp.cz. All you ever wanted to know about routes, tariffs, tickets, timetables, re-rou tin gs an d ser vi ce disrupti ons, maps an d general information about Prague’s bus, tram and metro system from friendly, multi-lingual folk. Apar t from th e airpor t offices, th ese are found at th e metro stations.QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Můstek, Jungmannovo Nám., open 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Andĕl, open 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Prague Airpor t terminals 1 & 2, open 07:00 - 22:00. 28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of Germany and Austria, the Empire dissolves into several national states and, Czechoslovakia finally becomes an independent republic. Tomáš Masaryk becomes its first president. 15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slovakia becomes an independent fascist state. 5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets. Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Communist party takes power. The country will remain under the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989. Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alexander Dubček makes efforts to establish “Socialism with a human face”. This includes releasing political prisoners and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion 21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself alight on the steps of the National Museum. 19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people demand democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square. As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990 former dissident Václav Havel is elected head of state. 31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslovakia divides into two independent states, Slovakia and the Czech Republic. 21st Century Aug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises. 1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union. 1 Aug, 2004 A grenade is thrown at an Israeli casino owner on Na Příkopě; 18 people are injured. 16 Mar, 2004 Tram N°22 derails on Karlovo Nám. and ploughs into a crowd at a tram stop, killing two people. Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 10 CULTURE & EVENTS Entertainment abounds in the city and our listings are by no means comprehensive. Listen, look, explore and check www.prague.tv for daily events. CULTURE & EVENTS 11 Black Light Theatre A Prague speciality; fluorescent mime actors and puppets moving in front of a black background. Great for children, and for adults too. MMůstek, tel. 221 61 01 73, www.blacktheatre.cz. Tickets 450Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30. Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel. 281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre. Tickets 430Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30. Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 4, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre. cz. Tickets 480Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00. Jiří Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, tel. 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec.cz. Tickets 520Kč. Q Performances start at 19:30. Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 25, MNárodní třída, tel. 221 08 52 76, www.blacktheatreprague.cz. Tickets 440Kč. The performance is followed by a workshop and lasts about 80 minutes. Q Performances start at 20:00. Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám. 43, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 88 14, www.palacetheatre.cz. Tickets 140 - 340Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00. Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets 700Kč. Q Performances start at 21:30. WOW Show (Theater Broadway) I-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 31, MMůstek, tel. 777 08 39 44, www. wow-show.com. Tickets 550Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00. Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 2, tel. 221 66 32 60, www.klementinum.cz. The beautiful building is home to some good classical music concerts in sublime grounds. Plus now, the Codex Gigas or Devil’s Bible is on show until Jan 6, 2008. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Performances start at 18:00 unless otherwise specified. Radlická 3179/1E, Praha 5 - Smíchov Puppet theatre Prague is famous for puppets, and these shows make a great night out as language is not usually a barrier. All Colours Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 31, Říše loutek D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. 222 32 45 65, www.riseloutek.cz. Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 6, tel. 222 23 17 02, www.minor.cz. Tickets 30-80Kč. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz. Village Gold Class Cinemas You‘re ushered into your are the top, the ultimate, • 14 cinemas • Parking • Modern art cinema • Comfortable cinema the very best cinemas you‘ll ever experience. seats complete with a private table by your side. The lights dim, and the film begins... Theatre There are nearly 40 theatres in Prague, but nearly all run on a repertory system so plays only appear two or three times a month. Because tickets are relatively cheap they can be like gold dust and most theatres will have queues at the box office at the beginning of every season. So your best bet is to try one of the ticket agencies around the city. You will pay a premium for your ticket, but you won’t catch cold. tel. 233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz. A small theatre specialising in moving, visual and experimental theatre and dance, with several performances that can be enjoyed by non-Czech speakers. Ticket office and bar opens an hour before each performance.Q All performances are at 20:00 unless specified otherwise. Advance bookings at Praha 1, Celetná 17; BIO OKO Bar, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 15 & Praha 2, Polí pět, Dittrichova 13. Tickets 150/90Kč. Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. 221 71 61 11, fax 221 716 666, www.archatheatre.cz. Affectionately known as the “alternative National Theatre,” Archa has done wonders for Prague’s cultural scene. It’s not necessarily an “English” theatre, however their eclectic line-up often transcends language barriers. Check their website - you never know what additional items of interest, including concerts, they’ll have on tap. All shows at 20:00 unless otherwise listed Q Performances start at 20:00 unless stated otherwise. PTAEGKW Divadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 4, tel. 221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz. Dating back to the reign of Charles IV, this building was recently refurbished Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36, villagecinemas.cz and now provides a home to Golem, a musical of the Jewish legend, which plays daily with English subtitles. NB Rows 1-6 & 32-33 are not good for viewing the subtitles. Q Tickets 599 - 799Kč. Box office open 10:00 - 02:00. Performances at 19:00. 15:00 & 19:00 Sat & 15:00 Sun. PA Divadlo na Prádle B-4, Praha 1, Besední 3, tel. 257 32 04 21, www.napradle.cz.. Small theatre space with rather good cafe that hosts the Prague Fringe and others. Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitská 24, tel. 222 72 15 31, www.divadloponec.cz. Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. 222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Laterna Magika developed a new way of combining theatre, dance, music and film for the 1958 Brussels Expo, and was doing multi-media performances before the word even existed. All productions are visually orientated with no spoken Czech - ideal for foreigners. Q Performances start at 20:00. Tickets 735Kč. National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, tel. 224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Prague’s most beautiful riverside building hosts a wealth of performances, mostly concerts and opera. Find the booking office in the modernist glass building next door. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:30, 15:00 - 18:30. The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branická 41, tel. 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz. Contemporary dance theatre and school. 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9 10 10 11 11 12 12 13 13 14 15 15 16 16 17 17 18 18 19 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 20:00 18:00 19:00 19:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 20:00 18:00 18:00 19:00 19:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 17:00 19:30 18:00 18:00 18:00 19:30 18:00 18:00 goldclass.cz Music of the Spanish Synagogue Famous Melodies of Classical Music Chamber Concert The Best of the Classics Organ Concert Famous Jewish Songs & Melodies The Best of the Classics The Best of World and Czech Music Vivaldi, Gershwin George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue Organ Concert Famous Melodies of Classical Music Greatest Hits of Classical Music Chamber Concert Chamber Concert The Greatest Hits Organ Concert Masterpieces of Classical Music Chamber Concert A. Vivaldi - The Four Seasons George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue The Best of Gershwin The Best of World and Czech Music Organ Concert Chamber Concert The Greatest Hits ArteMiss Trio Czech Philharmonic Chamber Concert Organ Concert Famous Melodies of Classical Music Famous Jewish Songs & Melodies A. Vivaldi - The Four Seasons Chamber Concert SS RF KM NM KM SS NM SS SS KM KM RF RF KM KM NM KM NM KM KM KM SS SS KM KM NM BE RF KM KM RF SS KM KM Concerts & Opera The architecture is superb, but be sure to catch this aspect that has added to Prague’s fame, her music. Mozart wasn’t wrong to embrace Prague as fervently as Prague embraced Mozart. 222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. Housing a variety of halls, the stunning Art Nouveau Obecní dům is the venue for many classical concerts. Outside, you’ll always find dressedup people selling tickets for the ‘best of Mozart’-type shows, which can be great as they’re usually well performed, and good for children too as they’re not too long. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300Kč. State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. 224 22 72 66, www.opera.cz. A fabulous neo-Rococo pile quite unfortunately wedged between the station, National Museum and two busy roads. Built in 1888 for Prague’s German Theatre Association, it is worth a visit for the glamorous gold-andplush interior and the view of the sumptuous ceiling alone. Operas are usually performed in the original language, with Czech or English subtitles projected above the stage. For tours of the building, contact Prague’s tourist office. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1,150Kč. Stavovské divadlo (Estates Theatre) E-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224 22 85 03, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also here that Mozart’s Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous Czech audience; the opera was destined to bomb in Vienna. Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000Kč. Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel. Tickets Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Malé Nám. A Ticket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 9, tel. 222 89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 12, tel. 296 32 99 99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A Ticketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26 30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Classical Music Date October 1 1 2 Time Event 18:00 Organ Concert 17:00 Verner Collegium 19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra Venue KM BE MH Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 12 CULTURE & EVENTS Venue guide These codes refer to the ones used in our listings. AB AC AG AJ AK AR AS BC BE ET FK GP IM JB JS KC KM LG LM LP MG MH NC NM NT RC RE RF RH RM RX SA Abaton Praha 8, Na Košince 8, MPalmovka, tel. 602 32 44 34, www.prostorabaton.cz. All Colours Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 31, tel. 221 61 01 73, www.blacktheatre.cz. AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 16, tel. 222 21 12 75, www.agharta.cz. Akord I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, tel. 774 10 10 91, www.akord-jazz.com. Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, tel. 296 330 911, www.palacakropolis.cz. Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. 221 71 61 11, www.archatheatre.cz. St. Agnes’s Convent E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 17. Bethleham Chapel D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské Nám. 4, tel. 224 24 85 95. Bertramka Mozart Museum Praha 5, Mozartova 169, tel. 257 31 74 65, fax 257 31 67 53, www.bertramka.cz. Estates Theatre (Stavovské divadlo) E-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224 22 85 03. Black Theatre of Fr. Kratochvíl H-4, Praha 1, Národní 25, tel. 221 08 52 76. Galas Palace Image Black Theatre H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 4, tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.cz. Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva boat, tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzboat.cz. Black light Theatre of Jiří Srnec F-3, Praha 5, U Lékárny 597, tel. 257 92 18 35, www. blacktheatresrnec.cz. Kongresové centrum Praha Praha 4, Tř. 5. května 65, tel. 261 17 11 11, www.kcp.cz. Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1. Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. 222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. Lichtenstein Palace B-2, Praha 1, Malostranské Nám. 13. U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz. Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel. 222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. St. Nicholas Church E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské Nám. 27a, tel. 224 19 09 93. National Museum F-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám. 68, tel. 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz. National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, tel. 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 34 87. Rudolfinum D-2, Praha 1, Alšovo nábř. 12, tel. 227 05 91 11. Rothmeyr’s Hall at Prague Castle Praha 1 - Hradčany, www.hrad.cz. Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, tel. 224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Sazka Arena Praha 9, Ocelářská 460/2, www. sazkaarena.cz. SJ SO SP SS TB TF UN ZO 19 20 20 21 21 22 22 23 23 24 25 25 25 26 26 26 27 27 28 28 29 29 30 30 31 Church of Sts. Simon and Juda E-1, Praha 1, U milosrdných. State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. 224 22 72 66. U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzinprague.com. Spanish Synagogue E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 12, tel. 224 81 00 99, www.jewishmuseum.cz. Theater Broadway I-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 31, tel. 777 08 39 44, www.wow-show.com. Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, tel. 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská ulička 2, tel. 224 89 57 48, www.jazzblues.cz. Žofín G-5, Praha 1, Slovanský ostrov 226, tel. 224 93 48 80, www.zofin.cz. 18:00 18:00 19:00 18:00 19:30 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 19:00 18:00 18:00 17:30 18:00 18:00 18:00 17:30 18:00 17:00 18:00 17:00 18:00 18:00 18:00 The Best of the Classics Organ Concert Vivaldi, Gershwin The Best of the Classics Czech Philharmonic Vivaldi, Mozart, Dvořák, Brahms George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue Music of the Spanish Synaogue L. Bernstein - West Side Story Organ Concert Famous Jewish Songs & Melodies George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue A. Vivaldi - The Four Seasons The Best of Gershwin Chamber Concert Famous Melodies of Classical Music Organ Concert The Best of World and Czech Music The Greatest Hits Prague Symphony Orchestra Masterpieces of Classical Music Adamus Trio Music of the Spanish Synaogue Chamber Concert Chamber Concert NM KM SS NM RF NM KM SS KM KM SS KM KM SS KM RF KM SS NM MH NM BE SS KM KM 21 22 23 23 24 25 26 27 30 30 18:00 19:30 17:30 18:00 17:30 17:30 18:00 19:30 18:00 17:30 Organ Concert Prague Symphony Orchestra The Best of Gershwin George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue The Best of World and Czech Music The Best of Gershwin L. Bernstein - West Side Story Prague Symphony Orchestra Organ Concert The Best of Gershwin KM RF SS KM SS SS KM MH KM SS CULTURE & EVENTS English Theatre Švandovo Divadlo Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, tel. 234 65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. All listed shows are in Czech with English subtitles. The subtitles are printed on a screen above the stage so sit in the balcony for the best view. Showtime is 19:00. 1 October The Beggar’s Opera 2 October Elton John’s Glasses 3 October Masquerade 7 October Her Stepdaughter (Jenufa) 8 October The School for Wives 9 October Periphery 10 October The School for Wives 11 October The Mandrake 16 October Strangers on a Train 17 October Strangers on a Train 23 October The Mandrake 25 October Strangers on a Train 29 October Masquerade 30 October Elton John’s Glasses 19:00 The Kiss 19:00 La Boheme 19:00 Carmen NT SO NT 13 Opera October 1 1 4 5 5 6 8 8 9 13 14 17 18 19 21 24 25 28 30 19:00 18:30 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Cosi Fan Tutte Aida Turandot Don Giovanni Magic Flute The Bartered Bride Rigoletto La Traviata Carmen Falstaff The Bartered Bride Rigoletto Tosca Madama Butterfly Cosi Fan Tutte Carmen La Boheme Turandot Magic Flute Tosca Don Giovanni Cosi Fan Tutte Le nozze di Figaro Magic Flute Lucia di Lammermoor Rigoletto Don Giovanni Magic Flute Cosi Fan Tutte Rigoletto La Boheme Le nozze di Figaro Falstaff SO NT SO ET SO NT SO NT NT NT NT SO SO SO SO NT SO SO SO SO ET SO ET SO SO SO ET SO SO SO SO ET NT 26 26 28 Ballet October 4 6 7 12 12 14 17 18 25 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 14:00 Romeo a Julie Cinderella Swan Lake La Sylphide/Napoli Cinderella Swan Lake Sólo pro tři Sólo pro tři Czech Ballet Symphony Onegin Swan Lake Cinderella Swan Lake NT SO SO NT SO SO NT NT NT NT SO SO SO November 1 18:00 2 17:30 3 18:00 5 18:00 6 19:30 6 19:30 7 18:00 7 19:30 7 9 10 11 11 11 12 15 16 16 17 18 19 20 21 19:30 18:00 17:30 18:00 17:30 19:30 18:00 18:00 17:30 18:00 17:30 17:30 18:00 19:30 20:00 A. Vivaldi - The Four Season KM The Best of World and Czech Music SS Organ Concert KM Chamber Concert KM Czech Philharmonic RF Prague Symphony Orchestra MH Chamber Concert KM Philharmonic of the Animato Foundation MH Czech Philharmonic RF Organ Concert KM The Best of World and Czech Music SS Chamber Concert KM The Best of Gershwin SS Barbara Frittoli MH Chamber Concert KM George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue KM The Best of Gershwin SS Organ Concert KM The Best of World and Czech Music SS The Best of Gershwin SS George Gershwin - Rhapsody in Blue KM Czech Philharmonic RF Tommy Emmanuel & the Eve Quartet Prague KC November 1 19:00 3 19:00 4 19:00 6 19:00 7 19:00 13 19:00 14 19:00 15 14:00 15 19:00 16 19:00 17 19:00 20 19:00 22 19:00 25 19:00 November 2 19:00 5 19:00 18 19:00 25 19:00 Black Light Theatre October Daily 19:00 Aspects of Alice TF 1,8,12,15,22,26,29 20:00 Black Box IM 1,2,3,4 20:00 Graffiti LG 1,3,4,6,7,9-12,14,15,17-19,21-22,24-26,28,29,31 20:00 WOW TB 2,5,9,16,19,23,30 20:00 Cabinet IM 3,4,10,11,17,18,24,25,31 20:00 The Best of Image IM 6,7,13,14,20,21,27,28 20:00 Studio Clip IM 6-9, 15-18, 23-28 20:00 Wonderful Circus LG 10,11,13,14,29-31 20:00 Cocktail LG 20-22 20:00 Rendezvous LG November Daily 19:00 Aspects of Alice TF Muzika Etnika Until 2 November Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 14 CULTURE & EVENTS 1,7,8,14,15,21,22,28,29 20:00 The Best of Image 1,21,22,24-26 20:00 Cocktail 1,3-5,7,9-12,14-16,18,19,21-23,25,26,28-30 20:00 WOW 2,6,13,16,20,27 20:00 Cabinet 3,4,10,11,17,18,24,25 20:00 Studio Clip 3-8,14-16,18-20,27-30 20:00 Wonderful Circus 5,9,12,19,23,26 20:00 Black Box 10-13 20:00 Legend of the Argonauts IM LG TB IM IM LG IM LG Národní třída 4, 110 00 Praha 1 www.laterna.cz FIRST MULTIMEDIA THEATRE IN THE WORLD Noise October 1 2 3 3 6 7 7 9 10 11 11 12 13 14 15 16 21 22 21:00 21:00 19:00 19:00 20:00 21:00 20:00 21:00 20:00 19:30 20:00 18:00 20:00 20:00 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00 123 Minut Necro Primal Scream The Young Gods dEUS T.O.P Dream Company . Hip Hop Allstars Tribute Cocotte Minute Lovex with White Flame Hollywood Mom Amour with Photolab Eminence Hell on Earth Hanson Brothers with Anyway Animal Collective Jahcoozi with Monika Načeva Polemic Southpaw Juana Molina Etran Finatawa Kryštof Jon Hassel Zebrahead Madball Cold War Kids Monster Magnet Sunshine Los Calzones The Residents Funeral for Friends with Cancer Bats The Wedding Present Biohazard Woven Hand Warren Suicide Elliot Minor LM LM RX AK AB LM AB LM AB AK AB AB LM AR LM LM LM LM AK LM AK RX AB LM RX RX RX AK LM LM AB AR AB LM LATERNA MAGIKA´s Martha Rosler, Passionate Signals Until 9 November Happenings Four Days in Motion International Theatre Festival 3-10 October Now in its 13th year, Four Days in Motion presents contemporary and innovate theatre projects with theatre troupes from around the world. Known not only for their theatre work but also the unique locales where they choose to show that work (think former sewage plant one year, factory another year); Four Days in Motion is an anything goes avant-garde mess of a week. We love it! For specific shows and more information, visit www.ctyridny.cz. Where? Four venues: Divadlo Archa, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26; Divadlo Ponec, Praha 3, Husitská 24a/899; La Fabrika, Praha 7, Komunardů 30 and Hall 23 and 30, Praha 7, U Výstaviště 23. Prague Bollywood Festival 6-12 October Indian Realities...? is the theme of this year’s Bollywood Festival. Always a big hit in Prague, the festival is a week of movies, music, food and photos. Documentaries, full-length features and animation all get their turn on the big screen. For a full list of events, visit www.bollywood.cz. And don’t miss the Bollywood Party at Klub P.M., Praha 2, Trojická 8. Tickets can be purchased at either of the participating theatre’s box offices. Where? Kino Evald, Praha 1, Národní, www.evald.cz and Kino Světozor, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, www.kinosvetozor.cz. November 4 19:30 4 21:00 6 19:30 9 19:00 15 19:30 16 21:00 17 20:00 19 19:00 20 19:00 20 19:30 23 19:30 24 21:00 26 19:30 26 20:00 27 20:00 20 19:30 secret is in its mixture of film and life performance. The countinous search for novelty and originality stemming from the combination of these elements lies at the heart of the ensembles creative work. Jazz, Blues, Funk October 12 13 15 18,24 19 20 21 22 23 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:30 20:00 21:00 21:00 19:30 20:30 Rhythm Desperados Rhythm Desperados Petr Zeman Quintet Petra Vlková band Martina Fišerová & Vít Pospíšil trio Laco Deczi & New York Jazz Cellula Latin Wave Erik Truffaz 4tet Elena & Jocosejazz AG AG AG JB JB AG AG AK JB National holidays 28 October - Czechoslovak Independence Day 17 November - Freedom and Democracy Day Prague In Your Pocket box office: 224 931 482 • fax: 222 222 039 • info@laterna.cz 16 CULTURE & EVENTS Strings of Autumn Strings of Autumn Music Festival Until 19 November Jazz & classics; traditional & experimental. You’ll find it all at this diverse festival. Organisers strive to bring together seemingly incompatible musical styles, and it always works out well. The festival began as a series of programmes back in 1996 and has since grown to be a major festival on the city’s cultural calendar. The festival often commissions new work and with their three themes being “Inspiration;” “Crossover” and “Luminaries” all attendees are sure to discover something rousing this autumn. Tickets can be bought online at the festival’s website, www.strunypodzimu.cz, or in person at the National Theatre’s ticket office, Praha 1, Národní 2, 224 901 247. Book in advance; they sell out quickly. Venues: Czech Museum of Music, Praha 1, Karmelitská 2; Rudolfinum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12; St. Anne’s Church, Praha 1, Liliová; National Theatre, Praha 1, Národní 2; La Fabrika, Praha 7, Komunardů 30. For more information visit www.strunypodzimu.cz. 11 October 19:30 Chava Alberstein & Guests, Rudolfinum 19 October 19:30 Julia Fischer & Wurttembergisches Kammerorchester, St. Anne’s Church 21 October 19:30 Lenka Dusilova, Beata Hlavenkova & Carinet Factory, St. Anne’s Church 22 October 19:30 Lenka Dusilova, Beata Hlavenkova & Carinet Factory, St. Anne’s Church 1 November 19:30 Les Arts Florissants, National Theatre 5 November 19:30 Tenores di Bitti, Czech Museum of Music 6 November 19:30 Tenores di Bitti, Czech Museum of Music 8 November 19:30 Martin Grubinger, La Fabrika 10 November 19:30 Martin Grubinger, La Fabrika 11 November 19:30 Kabih Abou-Khalil & Trio, Rudolfinum 19 November 19:30 Joel Frederiksen & Jiří Pavlica with their ensembles, Rudolfinum CULTURE & EVENTS Exhibitions Andrej Balco DOMESTICAS Until 25 Oct. This Slovakian photographer presents his work detailing interrelationships. Taken in Brazil, he seeks to capture the contrast between people; specifically household workers and their middle class employers. The contrasts of the people who come to work everyday in the elegant villas and return to their humble homes in the evening is classic new documentary photography. Where? Leica Gallery, Praha 1, Školská 28, www.lgp.cz. Beings from out of nowhere 22 Oct.-11 Jan. This show is dedicated to those artists who just couldn’t get a break. Art from Bohemia in the first half of the 20th century, painted by academics and other artists on the sidelines of Czech art history. Whether they should remain there will be for you to decide. Organizers hope to balance the lopsidedness of Czech art history by showcasing these important, but relatively unknown painters. Where? City Gallery Prague, Municipal Library, 2nd floor, Praha 1, Mariánské náměstí 1, www.ghmp.cz Reflecting Words Until 31 October This is a group show focusing on the use of text and letters in visual art; it is coordinated by the Czech Museum of Literature. It’s inside the summer palace in Hvezda park; pick a sunny day to go and combine the exhibit with a nice breath of fresh air. The summer palace also contains a permanent exhibit on the history of the building and an interesting model of the Battle of White Mountain. Where? Letohrádek Hvezda, Praha 6, Liboc 25, www. pamatniknarodnihopisemnictvi.cz Muzika Etnika Until 2 November Discover the distinct relationships between cultures through their musical instruments. The interactive exhibit showcases musical instruments from seven cultural regions across four continents. Where? Czech Museum of Music, Praha 1, Karmelitská 2, www.nm.cz 20th Century Masters of Chinese Brush Painting Until 2 November This is the second part of a showing of the National Gallery’s extensive collection of Chinese brush paintings. The exhibit includes examples of traditional Chinese genres such as landscapes, figures and flowers but also Chinese-style pictures influenced by western concepts. Qi Baishi, Li Keran and Lin Fengmian are three of the more well-known artists whose work is on display. Where? Wallenstein Riding Hall (Valdstejnská jízdárna,) Praha 1, Valdstejnská 1, www.ngprague.cz Milan Pitlach: Calligraphy Until 23 Nov. 17 MOFFOM 2008 Music on Film Film on Music International Festival of Music Films 16-20 October One of the unique festivals for Prague, and probably much of Europe, MOFFOM brings together the music festival and film festival worlds to showcase a multitude of musical genres. They’ll show an enormous amount of movies over the week; ranging from music documentaries, to performance films and musicals to music shorts and cine-concerts. Tickets can be purchased through Ticket-pro, www.ticket-pro.cz. For more information on the program or the festival itself, visit www.moffom.org. Where? Lucerna Cinema, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36; Cinema Světozor, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41; Cinema Evald, Praha 1, Národní třída 28 Harlem Gospel Choir 1 November Hallelujah! For an inspirational evening filled with some of the most powerful voices in the world, tune in to tonight’s performance of the Harlem Gospel Choir. Currently on their God Bless The Children World Tour 2008, this uplifting bunch always puts on a rousing show. Where? Prague Congress Centre, Praha 4, tř. 5. května 65, www.kcp.cz Gaelforce Dance 4 November The masters of Irish dance will be kicking up their heels and stomping their toes tonight. Not only that, they’ll sing too. Supposedly this differs from other Irish dancing troops, as everything is performed live. The Gaelforce gang has 30 dancers, four musicians and a singer; so you’ll be in for some Irish music overload. And if that isn’t enough for you, the sound of the shoes tapping will be amplified, thanks to mini-microphones. Where? Prague Congress Centre, Praha 4, tř. 5. května 65, www.kcp.cz Martha Rosler, Passionate Signals Until 9 November A survey of American gender and political art from this notable US photographer. Spanning 1965-2008, Rosler’s work is a contribution to the debate about the role of art and society. Rosler is generally considered one of the most influential figures in political and feminist-oriented art. Where? Langhans Galerie Praha, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, www.langhansgalerie.cz And the tanks arrived in ’68…Photographs Until 23 November To commemorate the 40th anniversary of the arrival of Warsaw Pact soldiers into Czechoslovakia, a public call was made this past summer to anyone who had photos from August 1968. More than 2500 photos were received and 31 of them are on display. Taken by both amateur and professional photographers they are an eye-opening glimpse into this moment in history. Where? National Museum, Praha 1, Václavské nám. www. nm.cz Milan Pitlach: Calligraphy Until 23 Nov. Czech photographer Milan Pitlach has assembled a unique collection based on photos of graffiti, inscriptions and random paintings on the walls of Shanghai. A trained architect who is still designing building, Pitlach is also a photographer with a long history. This is his first exhibition with colour photos. Where? National Gallery, Zbraslav Chateau, Praha 5, Bartoňova 2, www.ngprague.com Chinese Painting - Zhang Xiaogang, Fang Lijun, Feng Mengbo Until 28 Dec. This triple exhibition showcases three of the best Chinese painters. Xiaogang’s art focuses on family and memory; Lijun brings us cynical realism, while Mengbo offers up a series of landscapes; computer generated, but finished in paint. A unique line-up of contemporary art. Where? Galerie Rudolfinum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12, www.galerierudolfinum.cz Zhang Xiaogang Until 28 Dec. Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 18 SPORTS Now that we are post-Euro Cup and Olympics; the autumn sports scene seems to be a bit dull. Not that there aren’t many a game being played; it’s just with no bragging rights or medals or big trophies where’s the thrill of the battle? Football and ice hockey seasons are back on the pitch/ice, plus the horses are running. Hopefully that will be enough clashing for you. WHERE TO STAY Ice Hockey Only a month into the new season, and the national sport is churning up the ice. Ticket prices are cheap and the play and action are top notch. Two Prague teams are in the first league; and both are usually in the top 5 come the end of the season. Sparta T-Mobile Arena Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou 419 www.hcsparta.cz 2 October, HC Energie Karlovy Vary, 18:00 10 October, RI OKNA Zlín, 18:00 12 October, HC Litvínov, 17:00 17 October, HC Lasselsberger Plzeň, 18:00 21 October, HC Slavia Praha, 18:00 24 October, HC Oceláři Třinec, 18:00 14 November, HC MOUNTFIELD, 18:00 16 November, BK Mladá Boleslav, 17:00 23 November, HC Vítkovice Steel, 17:00 30 November, Bílí Tygři Liberec, 17:00 Slavia O2 Arena Praha 9, Ocelářská 2 www.hc-slavia.cz 10 October, Znojmo, 18:15 12 October, České Budějovice, 17:00 14 October, Pardubice, 18:15 24 October, Vítkovice, 18:15 26 October, Karlovy Vary, 18:15 2 November, Plzeń, 17:00 25 November, Znojmo, 18:15 Prague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies. However, to the modern guest this may not be immediately apparent as the tradition of customer service is somewhat shorter. Generally, the further you travel into residential Prague, the cheaper the rooms become (and the quirkier the environment). Late night revellers staggering home to musical accompaniment can make a stay in the Old Town less than peaceful, so check out your hotel’s location before signing up. Alternatively, find a hotel when you get here, and always ask for a discount. Chances are you’ll get one. 19 Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi Football SK Slávia Praha won it all last year, but going into October you’ve got AC Sparta Praha in first, with Slávia languishing in fourth. The country’s top league is the Gambrinus liga, and in addition to the two aforementioned powerhouses, there are two other teams from Prague in there: FK Viktoria Žižkov and Bohemians 1905. Most games you can buy tickets the day off at the stadium box office; for the Bohemians, who have rabid fans and a small stadium; best buy early. Sparta AXA Aréna Praha 7, Milady Horákové 98 www.sparta.cz 4 October, SK Slávia Praha, 17:00 25 October, FK Příbram, 17:00 8 November, FC Tescoma Zlín, 17:00 29 November, SK Kladno, 17:00 UEFA Cup 2 October, AC Sparta Praha vs. NK Dinamo Zagreb, 20:15 Bohemians 1905 Ďolíček stadión Praha 10, Vršovická 31 www.fc-bohemians.cz 12 October, Karviná, 17:00 26 October, Jihlava, 17:00 9 November, Třinec, 17:00 FK Viktoria Žižkov Stadión Viktorky Praha 3, Seifertova www.fkvz.cz 19 October, Brno, 10:00 9 November, Slovan Liberec, 10:15 23 November, Příbram, 10:15 Slávia Stadión Eden Praha 10, Vladivostocká 10 www.slavia.cz 19 October, Kladno, 17:00 2 November, Brno, 17:00 16 November, Viktoria Žižkov, 17:00 23 November, Teplice, 17:00 Cream of the crop Aria A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 9, MMalostranská, tel. 225 33 41 11, fax 225 33 41 31, stay@aria.cz, www.aria. cz. A music-dominated hotel, that offers wonderful service, luxurious rooms (all modelled to honour a particular artist, be it John Coltrane, ABBA or Mozart), and the opportunity to enjoy relaxing music in the privacy of a secluded listening room. The hotel even has a musical director who will recommend music to suit your mood, while also advising on concerts. Q52 rooms (27 doubles €235 - 360, 5 suites €595 - 650, 2 apartments €625 - 1200, 18 junior suites €295 - 450). PTHARUFLGBKD hhhhh tel. 261 19 11 11, fax 261 21 16 73, towers@corinthia. cz, www.corinthia.cz. All the convenience you would demand from a 24-floor hotel in a capital city. In addition to a top-class oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a casino, fitness centre and ten-pin bowling. Q544 rooms (120 singles €260 - 300, 388 doubles €260 - 300, triples €350 - 390, 20 suites €410 - 1570, 1 presidential suite €1570, 16 junior suites €410). ACDFGHKL PRTU hhhhh Hilton Prague Old Town I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 822 100, fax 221 822 200, www.hilton.com. Just refurbished and opened in November; this Hilton boasts an enviable site in town. All the high-class Hilton amenities are available in a new and lovely setting. Also a treat in town, Maze restaurant is here; renowned chef Gordon Ramsey making his Prague debut. Q310 rooms (299 doubles €140 - 250, 10 suites €399 - 459, 1 apartment €950). PTJHARUFLGKDC hhhhh InterContinental Praha E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových 43/5, MStaroměstská, tel. 296 63 11 11, fax 224 81 12 16, prague@ihg.com, www.intercontinental.com/ prague. The friendliest front desk and most helpful concierge in all of Prague might be your first contact with this big, international hotel that has been looking after high flyers since before the fall of communism. All the facilities you would expect, including a superb fitness centre. Q372 rooms (155 singles €149 - 270, 128 doubles €149 - 290, 24 suites €349 - 490, 2 apartments €1830 - 4200, 63 junior suites €199 - 340). PHARUFLGBKDC hhhhh 221 70 01 11, fax 221 70 09 99, reservation@hoteljosef. com, www.hoteljosef.com. One of Prague’s first design hotels (from Eva Jiřičná) is crammed, in a minimalist way, with style and edges. Some rooms have lovely views and come interestingly with see-through bathroom walls. The white lobby introduces the stylist elements beautifully and the serene garden around which the whole place revolves provides a delightful contrast. A subtle space for the discerning traveller and not a few celebrities. Q110 rooms (8 singles €149 - 253, 102 doubles €173 - 296). PHARUFL GBKW hhhhh tel. 234 63 41 11, fax 234 63 46 35, info@palaishotel. cz, www.palaishotel.cz. Modern elegance personified in this renovated Belle Epoch building in leafy Vinohrady with fabulous views over Nusle. Rooms are luxurious with all mod cons plus DVD players, but two suites even have their own fireplaces. Classically stylish and so lavish you won’t want to leave. Q90 rooms (30 singles €220 - 295, 60 doubles €225 - 305). PHAR6UIFGBKD hhhhh Corinthia Towers Praha 4, Kongresová 1, MVyšehrad, Horse Racing For a little different action, check out the races. Velká Chuchle is accessible by public transport and is cheap – perfect afternoon out. The running starts at 14:00 every Sunday in October, except for October 12 when the Grand Pardubice Steeplechase will be held. The course is wide, flat and grassy – find a sunny Sunday and bring the family. Where? Praha 5, Radotínská 69, 257 94 14 31, www. velka-chuchle.cz Getting there: Bus 172 is direct or take one to Dostihová and walk c. 800m. Velká Chuchle has a railway station, and trains from Smíchovské nádraží stop here on race days. The journey is just 13 minutes and a regular bus/tram/metro 26Kč ticket will take you there. If you’d like a little bit more horse racing action, head to Pardubice on October 12 for the aforementioned Steeplechase. Recognized as the most difficult Steeplechase in Europe; horses and jockey’s must be uber-prepared for the more than 6,900 metres and 30 fences. Scarily enough, typically only about half of the horses who start the race; actually finish it. What’s more, on race day – horses are led to a test jump and if they refuse twice, or the jockey falls off twice; no running for them. Total prize money is 4.5 million Czech crowns which must be an incentive. You can liken it to Britain’s Grand National, and if you plan to go and not stand in the cheap seats; dress accordingly. For more information or to purchase tickets see www.pardubice-racecourse.cz Getting there: Take a train to Pardubice (104km) then bus N°8 to Paramo, the second stop. Four Seasons D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 42 70 00, fax 221 42 69 77, reservations.prg@fourseasons.com, www.fourseasons. com/prague. Just a step from Charles Bridge, the Four Seasons affords its guests with as much class and comfort as is humanly possible. Over a year was spent renovating the four buildings that provide a roof over your head, which range from 500-year-old elegance to contemporary design. Q161 rooms (singles €275 - 550, 141 doubles €295 - 570, 20 apartments €695 - 3900). ABDFGHKL PRTU hhhhh Josef F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 20, MNám. Republiky, tel. 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. 234 60 81 11, fax 222 32 95 45, office@grandhotelbohemia.cz, www.grandhotelbohemia.cz. An Austrian-run hotel with attractive Art Nouveau rooms and staff who are renowned for their efficiency. The hotel has a café and laundr y ser vice. Q78 rooms (10 singles €175 - 240, 65 doubles €210 280, 3 junior suites €310 - 540). PHARULGK hhhhh Grand Hotel Bohemia F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská Le Palais J-6, Praha 2, U Zvonařky 1, MI.P. Pavlova, Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, For more sports go to www.inyourpocket.com Prague In Your Pocket tel. 224 84 11 11, fax 224 84 23 78, sales.prague@ hilton.com, www.prague.hilton.com. Easily recognisable as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has all the facilities expected in this international brand. 24 hour bars, restaurants and services and a casino. Q788 rooms (20 singles €150 - 280, 646 doubles €150 - 280, 91 triples €166 - 296, 19 suites €308 - 438, 3 apartments €686 - 816, 8 junior suites €266 - 396, 1 presidential suite €956 - 1089). ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh Marriott I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 88 88 88, fax 222 88 88 89, prague.marriott@ marriott.cz, www.marriott.com. Bigger really is better. Every amenity imaginable and size, lots of it. Higher priced suites have two levels. If you are shelling out for a suite or better, then breakfast is included. Q293 rooms (258 doubles €149 - 315, 33 suites €359 - 495, 2 apartments €1300). ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh October - November 2008 20 WHERE TO STAY Paris I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 19 51 95, fax 224 22 54 75, booking@ hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz. Everything is Art Nouveau in this building, from its intricate façade to the lamps and other furnishings in its café and restaurant. Even the brass door handles on the antique lifts are decorated in this beautiful style. Take the stairs and be rewarded with stained glass windows and red carpets rolled out for each guest in the hallways. Q86 rooms (70 doubles €160 - 360, 3 apartments €500 - 3700, 13 junior suites €280 - 520). ABDGHKLPRT hhhhh MStaroměstská, tel. 234 61 41 00, fax 234 61 41 10, reservations@hotelpresident.cz, www.hotelpresident. cz. A range of top-class suites, an executive floor, a casino and a fitness room and spa, have earned the President five star status (though even their large standard rooms have a sofa). Photographs throughout the hotel complement the elegant décor of pale yellows and blue glass. All staff seem genuinely pleased to be here and smile broadly. Q130 rooms (7 singles €165 - 225, 65 doubles €145 - 225, 22 triples €145 - 225, 32 junior suites €195 - 255, 3 senior suites €295 - 355, 1 presidential suite €800 - 1100). Executive floor add €50 on all types of rooms. ADFHKLOPRTU hhhhh the old town, the glittering facilities at Andel’s will blind you with their high-technicity. Top-notch accommodation with designer lines. Q231 rooms (singles €235 - 300, 223 doubles €255 - 325, 8 suites €320 - 380). ADFGH KLPRTU hhhh WHERE TO STAY Corinthia Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác, tel. 261 16 11 11/261 16 60 61, fax 261 21 72 11, panorama@corinthia.cz, www.corinthia.cz. The second, albeit less exclusive Corinthia hotel in Prague still has excellent services and facilities in rooms and restaurants. The pool provides panoramic views of the city as one swims or lounges. Q450 rooms (118 singles €205 - 225, 321 doubles €205 - 225, triples €275 - 295, 1 presidential suite €1340, 10 junior suites €410). ABCDFGHKLPRTU hhhh MFlora, tel. 236 08 80 88, fax 236 08 80 89, www.marriott.com. Billed as hotels designed by business travellers, every room has a dataport and TV internet (both charged for standard rooms) and are spacious with desk, ergonomic chair and a sofa(bed). King size and very comfortable beds dominate rooms, which have ice buckets, fridge for you to fill, hairdryer, coffee/tea facilities plus iron in every room and robe and slippers in superior rooms make the Courtyard a place to stay. 24hr shop in the lobby plus a cosy bar. Q161 rooms (81 singles €105 - 135, 64 doubles €135 - 175, 13 triples €140 - 200, 1 suite €195 - 245). Breakfast €9-16. PHAR6UIFLGKW hhhh 21 President H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100, Angelo Hotel Praha 5, Radlická 1g/3216, MAnděl, tel. 234 80 11 11, fax 234 80 99 99, info@angelohotel. com, www.angelohotel.com. Brightly coloured design and black and white photos abound in this buzzing hotel in the happening area around Anděl. Rooms and even suites are on the small side, but beds are King and all suites have a terrace. The hotel is designed for the businessman, but robes, TV & DVD afford pleasure-seekers some comfort too. The safe is notebook-sized and has an interior plug for safe recharging. The lower price for a double room is single occupancy. Q168 rooms (163 doubles €140 - 255, 2 suites €200 - 300, 3 junior suite €180 - 280). PHARUFL GBKD hhhh Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 77 57 11, fax 221 77 57 12, info@hotelastoria.cz, www.hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies a modern building on some prime real estate in Prague Old Town. Rooms are on the small side, but comfortable with bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings and great views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities and enormous balconies. Q74 rooms (singles €99 - 220, 74 doubles €99 - 240). AGHKL PRTU hhhh Barceló Praha Praha 4, Na Strži 32, MPankrác, tel. 296 77 21 11, fax 241 44 10 23, hotel@barcelo.cz, www.barcelo.com. An excellent Spanish-owned hotel, this place has extremely friendly staff and small yet comfy rooms with minibar and telephone plus free parking in the garage. Q213 rooms (singles €130 - 150, 198 doubles €150 - 170, 15 suites €170 - 240). PHAULK hhhh Praha 1, Štěpánská 33, MMůstek, tel. 224 19 25 57, fax 224 22 06 81, reception@hotel-majestic.cz, www. hotel-majestic.cz. Lavishly renovated buildings around a copper clad courtyard. One is Biedermeier style and sports slightly cramped but fully mod conned rooms on five floors. The other is superb art deco and hosts seven floors of rooms with the top floors wielding the terraces and views. Central and stylish, Majestic is the word. Q185 rooms (175 doubles €125 - 260, 5 triples €165 - 310, 5 apartments €195 - 330). PHAR6ULGKDW hhhh Three-course menu for Courtyard Marriott Flora Praha 3, Lucemburská 46, 650 CZK per person Crowne Plaza Prague Castle Praha 1, Strahovská Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 40, MMůstek, tel. 222 82 00 00, fax 222 82 01 00, sales. prague@radissonsas.com, www.prague.radissonsas. com. Built in 1930 and restored to its former glory in 1999, this place has picked up a heap of design awards. Guests can expect rooms that have the warmth and grace of state rooms on a luxury liner. The higher the floor, the more stunning your view of Prague. Extras include a 24hour limousine service. Prices do not include VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles €169 - 229, 180 doubles €169 - 229, 5 suites €309 - 359, 1 apartment €900 - 1300, 13 junior suites €269 - 309). PTHARUFLGBKD hhhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Majestic Plaza I-5, 128, tel. 226 08 00 00, fax 226 08 02 00, cppraguecastle@keyhotels.cz, www.crowneplaza.com. A beautifully restored 16th century building with modern annexe tucked behind Strahov Monastery holds this striking new hotel from InterContinental with glass domed atrium/library and effective yet simple designs in lighting and furniture. Two wings, one old, one new, hold spacious rooms with king, queen or twin beds, desk, plasma TV, smellies from The White Company and some have a small terrace. The usual services join the country’s only Ayurvedic spa and clinic, with doctor, therapists and equipment all imported from Sri Lanka. Luxurious accommodation, supremely personable and delightfully quiet. Q138 rooms (2 singles €150 - 240, 126 doubles €170 - 260, 3 suites €320 400, 7 junior suites €225 - 350). Breakfast and VAT not included in the price. PTHARUFLGBKX hhhh Chef Show ‘s in Vltava Restaurant Every month you can get closer to the world of culinary art by coming to our Chef‘s Show where you can learn tips and tricks of the trade from our famous Executive Chef, Milan Pešek, and enjoy the wonderful setting of our Vltava Restaurant. Upmarket Adria E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 26, MMůstek, tel. 221 08 11 11, fax 221 08 13 00, accom@adria.cz, www. adria.cz. Look for the most beautiful 18th century building on Václavské náměstí. This is one of the most historic hotels in Prague, and after a thorough refit it is also one of the most modern. If the luxury rooms were not reason enough to stay there, then the fabulous Triton restaurant should be. Q88 rooms (8 singles €106 - 135, 71 doubles €127 - 235, 5 suites €160 - 285, 4 junior suites €139 - 255). ABGHKL PRUX hhhh BW Meteor Plaza I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 6, MNám. 222 21 00 21, fax 222 21 05 91, reservations@andante. cz, www.andante.cz. Location-wise, this street isn’t for prudes, with brothels and sport bars dotted along its length, but it is off Wenceslas Sq. so the Andante is central and it provides comfortable rooms with good service. All rooms have minibar, TV and bathroom, while the safe and hairdryers are at reception. Some rooms have balconies and do check if you care whether your room has a shower or bath. Q32 rooms (3 singles €70 - 145, 24 doubles €77 - 160, 3 triples €95 - 195, 2 suites €105 - 220). HALGKW hhh Andante I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 4, MMůstek, tel. Republiky, tel. 224 19 25 59, fax 224 22 06 81, reservation@hotel-meteor.cz, www.hotel-meteor.cz. Within shouting distance of the Powder Tower, this Best Western hotel is full of charm, but then again, there has been an inn here since 1307. In the 18th century, the man later to become Emperor Josef II wouldn’t lay his head down anywhere else. Q88 rooms (15 singles €109 - 173, 56 doubles €125 - 190, 10 triples €166 - 239, 6 suites €141 - 217). ADFGH KLPR hhhh 221 45 51 11, fax 224 22 57 73, elysee@europehotels. cz, www.hotelelysee.cz. Right in the centre of the city, with all of Prague’s main attractions just a few minutes walk away. All rooms are well-appointed, spacious, and have luxurious bathrooms. Six new apartments have been added to Elysee’s charm, all fully equipped for 2-6 people. (Prices for apartments do not include breakfast). Q76 rooms (8 singles €73 - 133, 50 doubles €96 - 180, 12 triples €120 - 223, 6 apartments €111 - 246). PAULG hhhh Elysee F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, MMůstek, tel. Élite H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 Andel’s Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel. 296 88 96 88, fax 296 88 99 99, info@andelshotel.com, www.andelshotel.com. Bang in the centre of the upmarket development west of the river, and just a few tramstops from Carlton Praha 3, Táboritská 18, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 11 77, fax 222 71 11 99, carlton@europehotels. cz, www.hotelcarlton.cz. Dark wood and deep green soft furnishings give a sophisticated air to the rooms. Bathrooms are luxurious, while the top floor rooms have vaulted, slanted ceilings and suites often go for the same price as a double. A little way out of town, the Carlton has good tram links. Q49 rooms (3 singles €73 - 133, 40 doubles €97 - 180, 6 triples €120 - 223). AGHKLPRU hhhh 93 22 50, fax 224 93 07 87, sales@hotelelite.cz, www. hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates back to the 14th century, the Élite, a member of the Small Charming group, is another gem. Totally refurbished in 2000, rooms are suitably grand, spacious and historic, with wonderful high ceilings, and lovely antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10 singles €112 - 176, 67 doubles €125 - 199, 1 triple €169 - 267, 1 junior suite €147 - 216). PARULGBK hhhh Grand Hotel Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 22, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 56, fax 221 63 25 58, info@grandhotelpraha.cz, www.grandhotelpraha.cz. Run by the Apostolic Residence crew, the neighbouring Grand Hotel is an equally sumptious place to stay, with suitably grand views over Old Town Square and classically furnished rooms. Q20 rooms (1 single €128 - 213, 18 doubles €153 - 320, 1 apartment €356 - 463). PAKD hhhh VLTAVA RESTAUR ANT – HOTEL PRESIDENT Náměstí Curieových 100 | 110 00 Prague 1 For a reservation please call 234 614 169 | www.hotelpresident.cz Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 22 WHERE TO STAY Hotel Absolut Praha 7, Jablonského 4, MHolešovice, tel. 222 54 14 06, booking@absoluthotel.cz, www.absoluthotel.cz. The absolute best place to stay in Praha 7. Hotel Absolut is an upscale, clean and shiny place with all the conveniences of home; including internet connection and parking. The restaurant is also getting rave reviews so if you are looking for chic accommodations in a cool ‘hood, absolutely check in. Q Doubles from EUR 160. PAUFK hhhh Hotel Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 32 15 21, fax 222 31 03 51, slon@ hotelcernyslon.cz, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. This elegant hotel rolls out the red carpet for all of its guests. Rooms, decorated with antique furniture, are spacious and some include an amazing view of the surrounding medieval centre. The wine cellar is also worth a peek. Q16 rooms (2 singles €73 - 113, 10 doubles €117 - 190, 4 triples €153 - 223). PARLK hhhh Elegant yet homey with an excellent city-centre location, this new four-star superior hotel should be popular. Fifty spacious rooms and suites are all individually decorated in a warm comforting style. The location is on the nicer, quieter side of Wenceslas Square and comes complete with all the usuals: in-room air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, mini-bar and safe. Q PJAFKW hhhh WHERE TO STAY Liberty E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 11, MMůstek, tel. 224 23 95 98, fax 224 23 76 94, info@hotelliberty.cz, www. hotelliberty.cz. The Liberty is a lovely, understated hotel with elegant furniture and textiles, plus all mod cons for today’s travellers. Some suites are split-level and views of the castle can be had. Q32 rooms (1 single €140 - 180, 19 doubles €150 - 210, 9 triples €200 - 265, 3 suites €270 - 310). PARUFLGBKD hhhh Mövenpick Praha 5, Mozartova 261/1, MAnděl, tel. 257 15 33 33, fax 257 15 31 13, hotel.prague@moevenpick.com, www.movenpick-prague.com. The hotel’s rooms are spacious and are decorated in a modern style. Take the funicular up the hill to the restaurant and function rooms with outstanding views of the city. Q442 rooms (4 singles €240, 410 doubles €280, 7 suites €445, 6 apartments €, 15 junior suites). PTHARUFLGBKD hhhh Mercure I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 80 08 00, fax 221 80 08 01, h3440@accor-hotels. com, www.mercure.com. Close to the centre of town and housed in the old Worker’s Accidents Insurance Co. where Kafka worked from 1908 to 1922. Rooms are bright and spacious. Complimentary goodies abound, the bar is modelled on a library and service is impeccable. Q174 rooms (173 doubles €115 - 225, 1 suite €). ABGKPRU hhhh 224 40 41 00, fax 224 22 61 06, hotel@hotelmodraruze. cz, www.hotelmodraruze.cz. The hotel is five labyrinthine floors of spacious and stylish halls of rose emblem carpet or new parquet. Rooms are similarly spacious and comfortable with minibar and Wi-Fi. Luxury rooms are bigger and supply fluffy robes, while the Presidential suit is massive with 2 plasma screens and a jacuzzi. Nice views, though maybe a little noisy at the front. Q44 rooms (5 singles €115 - 250, 26 doubles €135 - 280, 12 delux doubles €230 - 320, 1 presidential suite €518 - 725). ABGHIKLP6W hhhh 23 tel. 257 53 55 57 - 61, fax 257 53 14 92, info@hotelneruda.cz, www.hotelneruda.cz. One of Prague’s first design hotels has proved so popular that a second, adjacent building is being designed by Bořek Šípek (Barbora Škorpilová did the original) to accommodate guests. The 700 year old building nestled beneath the bulwarks of the castle hold clean design, fully equipped modern rooms with complimentary cake made in their divine café from a 100 year-old recipe. The oasis of a roof top terrace is open to non-guests too. Q PARB hhhh Hotel Neruda Praha 1, Nerudova 44, MMalostranská, Chateau St. Havel Praha 4, V podzámčí 1, tel. 241 44 57 17, fax 241 44 57 21, info@chateauhotel.cz, www. chateauhotel.cz. The fabulous neo-Gothic Krč castle, south of Prague’s centre, houses this exclusive hotel. Originally a 13th century fortress, the building was remodelled into its current romantic form in the 1840s, and it still has an extensive English garden. From the elegant lobby with its cassette ceiling and the minimalist restaurant in the chapel to the regally-styled rooms, this place is certainly for for a king. Q34 rooms (34 doubles €79 - 149). PTHAR 6LGK hhhh MNám. Republiky, tel. 225 02 20 00, fax 225 02 29 99, reservation.central@kkhotels.cz, www.kkhotels. com. One of Prague’s most impor tant and stunning Ar t Nou veau buildings has been beau tifull y restored to provide guests with a modern hotel experience in historic surroundings. The cavernous theatre has been converted into a ground floor meeting room topped by the mezzanine breakfast room. The floral ironwork around the lift leads you to luxurious rooms with all mod cons. Check out the unusual lobby fireplace… Q127 rooms (singles €134 - 275, 116 doubles €154 - 295, 10 triples €194 - 345, 1 junior suite : €270 - 472). ADFGH KLPRTUW hhhh K+K Hotel Central I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 10, Modrá Růže E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek, tel. KAVALÍR AMOUR RESIDENCE CARLTON Hotel Sovereign I-4, Politických vězňů 16, MMuzeum, tel. 242 45 45 45/242 45 45 65, fax 242 45 45 11, sales@hotel-sovereign.cz, www.hotel-sovereign.cz. CENTRAL R E S E R VA T I O N S : tel: +420 220 106 369 www.europehotels.cz e-mail: booking@europehotels.cz Novotel Praha City I-6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 38, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 221 10 49 99, fax 221 10 48 88, h3194@ accor-hotels.com, www.accor-hotels.com. A quality Novotel hotel in a peaceful side street, at walking distance or a few stops by tram from the Old Town. Expect modern, functional rooms, a bar and restaurant and good business services. Q146 rooms (145 triples €134 - 181, 1 suite €295). ABCDFGHKLPRTU hhhh Ramada Grand Hotel Symphony I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 41, MMuzeum, tel. 221 45 41 11, fax 221 45 44 45, reception@ramadaprague.com, www. euroagentur.cz. International-quality rooms decked out in fresh colours in a new, modern hotel. The rooms, stacked in six floors above a huge bookshop, face lively Václavské náměstí or a calm courtyard. Q96 rooms (singles €150 240, doubles €160 - 250, 9 apartments €192 - 295, extra bed €48 - 80). AGHKLPRU hhhh Yasmin F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 12, MMuzeum, tel. 234 10 01 00, fax 234 10 01 01, info@hotel-yasmin.cz, www.hotel-yasmin.cz. This fabulous designer hotel is all very tactile, with sleek furniture, jasmine flowers etched along floors and glass dividers, silver globes hanging from the ceiling and odd furry and smooth triffid-like objects towering over you. A subtle green dominates the room colour, each has a huge mirror so you can look as good as it does, flat screen TVs, all mod cons and rooms in the newer annex have skylights while the suite boasts a walk-in closet. Some rooms have no shower, tub only so check if you care. Q198 rooms (187 doubles €220 - 280, 11 suites €260 - 340). ADFGHKLPR6U hhhh APPIA MLÝN KARLŠTEJN BELVEDERE ELYSEE ARISTON PATIO Book hotels direct with us and you get the best of Prague for your holidays. One click for easy booking more than 500 rooms. ARISTON MARKÉTA Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 24 WHERE TO STAY Mid-Range 51 31 11, fax 222 51 51 58, reception@hotelanna.cz, www.hotelanna.cz. Part of the Small Charming group, and the Anna is just that. A real gem, with first class services and a homely atmosphere that caters to a thoughtful clientele looking for something a little special. Q24 rooms (8 singles €63 - 77, 10 doubles €83 - 103, 4 triples €110 - 130, 2 suites €120 - 140). TARG hhh tel. 284 68 06 28, fax 284 68 45 70, apollo@avetravel. cz, www.avetravel.cz. Clean, bright rooms available at this hotel in Holešovice. Although it is a tram and/or metro ride from the centre, this part of town is well connected and has improving restaurants et al. in itself. Q42 rooms (2 singles €33 - 98, 35 doubles €44 - 115, 2 triples €53 - 137, 2 quads €62 - 162, 1 apartment €64 - 135). AL hhh tel. 224 81 10 84, fax 224 81 23 78, info@hotel-atlantic. cz, www.hotel-atlantic.cz. This hotel is on the site of a roadside inn in the 17th century. The Atlantic remains on a busy road today but with renovated interiors which are now sleek, chic and classy, conference facilities and Fiesta, their self service restaurant, this is excellent value for being so close to the Old Town. Q88 rooms (9 singles €73 - 110, 52 doubles €97 - 129, 25 triples €112 - 158, 2 quads €141 - 187). HARULGK hhh Anna J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 with as many mod cons as you could ever need, and the fourstar executive floor has even more on offer. Q152 rooms (6 singles €53 - 88, 113 doubles €71 - 118, 32 triples €89 - 148, 1 quad €89 - 148). HAULGK hhhh Apollo Praha 8, Kubišova 23, MNádraží Holešovice, Clarion F-2, Praha 1, Hradební 9, MNám. Republiky, tel. 296 39 81 00, fax 296 39 81 50, clarion.recepce@ fortunahotels.cz, www.clarionhotel.cz. Well refurbished interior, although with some garish colours, and building facing the Vltava. This Choice Hotels International hotel offers guests well appointed rooms with all the amenities you’d expect from a four star hotel. It is central, pets are welcome, there are good services for business clients and the price is excellent - check out the website for last minute offers. Q93 rooms (18 singles €104 - 166, 72 doubles €115 - 185, 3 suites €127 - 203, apartments €138 - 222). HAK hhhh Claris J-4, Praha 2, Slezská 26, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 51 31 11, fax 242 44 61 12, reception@hotel-claris.cz, www. hotel-claris.cz. Set in the coveted Vinohrady district, Claris offers two floors of light, spacious and affordable rooms. It’s just minutes away from the nám. Miru trams and metro station, or a 15-minute stroll into the centre, but you’ll also find many good restaurant options in the immediate neighbourhood. Q24 rooms (2 singles €66 - 79, 22 doubles €86 - 106). AGKLPR hhh Atlantic I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 9, MNám. Republiky, Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 19, MVl- tavská, tel. 220 10 61 11, fax 233 37 23 68, prague@ belvedere-hotel.com, www.hotelbelvedere.cz. Situated in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the castle, the Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and a high level of service. The spacious three-star standard rooms come Evropa F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 25, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 81 17, fax 224 22 45 44, info@evropahotel. cz, www.evropahotel.cz. Amazing... from the outside. The 1905 Art Nouveau façade is the most beautiful on Václavské náměstí, and the café is lovely. However, the rooms (including the faux Louis 16th suites) are distinctively scruffy-looking, some downright shabby furniture and creaky floors. The cheaper rooms share facilities in the corridor. Q85 rooms (13 singles €57 - 107, 41 doubles €92 - 142, 26 triples €110 - 178, 5 quads €240). AKL hh Hotel Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 40/857, MAnděl, tel. 251 17 13 10, fax 251 17 13 90, info@hotelandel.com, www.hotelandel.cz. A homely, quiet hotel by the railway station and opposite the Staropramen brewery. Fear not, double glazing keeps the noise out of the sunny, well appointed rooms although you should take a rear courtyard facing room if you are a light sleeper. Minibar, hair dryer etc. are standard in their not-so-standard rooms – this is a converted 1898 residential building so all rooms are unique; the owner is an architect. Staff are friendly and multilingual. Q31 rooms (31 singles 2000 - 3450Kč, 31 doubles 2700 - 4350Kč, 31 triples 3000 4950Kč, extra bed 300 - Kč). AGKLP6T hhh Hotel Páv H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 13, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 221 50 21 11, fax 221 50 22 23, reception@hotel-pav.cz, www.hotel-pav.cz. Prague is blessed with another Small Charming Hotel, this time in the New Town, where three buildings have been merged and beautifully reconstructed to incorporate classical elements with modern lines. And it is very minimalist: no prints on the walls and muted wood and beige interior. All rooms have twin beds, a safe, minibar, desk, TV and free Wi-Fi. Pets are welcome and the lower double price is for single occupancy. Q81 rooms (66 doubles €79 129, 15 triples €118 - 158). PARUKW Ibis Praha City I-6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 36, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. 222 86 57 77/222 86 58 41, fax 222 86 56 66, h3195@accor-hotels.com, www.ibishotel.com. The Ibis provides a mid-range hotel experience, too clinical to be upmarket and too well serviced for the lower end of the spectrum as well. Functional rooms in a somewhat modern style provide the necessities of life. Q181 rooms (181 doubles €79 - 107). ABGKLPRTU hhh Airport hotels Courtyard Marriott Prague Airport Praha 6, Aviatická 1092/8, tel. 236 07 71 40, fax 236 07 70 78, www.marriott.com/prgpa. Security dictates no open windows so it’s all sealed but it’s all glass walls with magnificent views and Zen garden by the fitness centre with jasmine, lemon, orange and olive trees. The comfy library, lobby and business area (with to pay Wi-Fi) and Italian restaurant with open kitchen and as-required bar are all open to the public and connected to the airport via a covered walkway. Rooms are of the high Marriott standard with plasma TVs with keyboard, to pay internet, an ice machine on each floor and a fridge for you to stock. A welcome change to the airport’s services. Q235 rooms (132 singles €85 - 125, 98 doubles €85 - 125, 5 suites €175 - 195). PTHARUFLGKXW hhhh Hotel Tranzit Praha 6, Veleslavínská 150/44, tel. 236 16 11 11, fax 236 16 11 15, info@hoteltranzit. cz, www.hoteltranzit.cz. Another boxy, contained airport hotel but with some great services: free internet and Wi-Fi, a garden, 24 hour restaurant and bar and free airport transfer on demand (it’s just 5 minutes away). Rooms are functional but comfortable with the pale wood and clean lines of Ikea, wicker furniture, showers only, minibar, etc. Apartments are two connected rooms. Tranzit also has accommodation within the airport’s transit zone. Q PHARULGBKXW Prague In Your Pocket 26 WHERE TO STAY tel. 222 33 28 00, fax 224 81 26 81, reservation@hotelibis.cz, www.hotelibis.cz. The second Ibis hotel in Prague is situated in the northern suburb of the same name but just a short metro ride from all the action. All the facilities you would expect from an Ibis, plus a little charm. Q226 rooms (singles €57 - 79, 147 doubles €69 - 91, 69 triples €81 - 103, 10 quads €93 - 115). AGHKLPRU hhh tel. 221 70 17 00, fax 221 70 18 00, www.ibishotel. com. The third Ibis for Prague gives their usual room rates and facilities in the ever-growing and trendier by the day area around Anděl. Hard working staff keep smiling and converse freely in a number of languages. The lobby bar is busy, which is very uncommon in hotels. An excellent choice for a comfortable stay across the river. Oh, and your pets are welcome too. Q228 rooms (singles €64 - 84, 214 doubles €76 - 96, 12 triples €88 - 108, 2 suites €154). AGH KLPRTU hhh RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN Discounts are available for long and winter stays and they have toll free numbers from most European countries. Check the website for details. Q37 rooms (17 doubles €34 - 64, 1 suite €60 - 92, 20 apartments €57 - 150). TR NEW 27 Ibis Praha Karlín K-2, Praha 8, Šaldova 54, MKřižíkova, This chapter only reviews our selection of restaurants in the Old Town & New Town, the well-touristed area between the river and Wilsonova road at the National Theatre. For dining in Malá Strana, Vinohrady & Žižkov, Letná & Holešovice and Smíchov & Anděl turn to pages 60 - 71. Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino B Outside seating R Internet W Wi-Fi A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest metro station I Fireplace 6 Animal friendly Ibis Praha Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 14, MAnděl, 67 19, fax 222 51 76 91, booking@dahliainn.com, www. dahliainn.com. Modern and cozy, Dahlia Inn is a small pension, located on a quiet street in Praha 2. The rooms are big, bright and airy and include safe deposit boxes, satellite TV and wireless internet. One triple room is available, as is an extra bed for any of the rooms. Friendly and helpful staff, no charge. Q 8 rooms (Doubles 49-69EUR, Singles 39-59EUR). JAW Dahlia Inn I6, Praha 2 Lípová 20, MIP Pavlova, tel. 776 68 Afghan Ariana F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 32 34 38, www.sweb.cz/kabulrest. Superb, especially if it happens to be the chilli chutney or a large plate of aubergines swimming in butter and salt. Ariana’s Afghan is slightly spicy, and uses a lot of tomatoes and yoghurt. The portions may be a tad underweight but great Eastern cuisine, at better prices than most. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250Kč). AT Apartments Amour Hotel Residence B-2, Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 5, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 55 78, fax 257 53 55 79, amour@europehotels.cz, www.europehotels.cz. Historical charm and luxurious hospitality in the heart of Malá Strana. Four buildings dating from 1404 host suites with all mod cons including washing machines in some. Wooden floors and furniture complement the original timbers. Pets are welcome and all suites have sofa beds for extra guest. Orchids and black and white photography reflect the classical feel of this delightful residence. Q9 rooms (3 doubles 3100 - 6100Kč, 4 quads 3800 - 7200Kč, 2 apartments 4500 - 8500Kč). PTARGW Apart Karee J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 43, MI.P. Pavlova/Nám. Míru, tel. 222 21 08 08, fax 222 21 08 09, karee@seznam.cz, www.karee.cz. A new, lovely location in leafy Vinohrady, far from the staggering crowds of Old Town, this reconstructed building has kept its old world charm, vaulted ceilings and ancient staircase, and added ten apartments which, while not luxurious, are well equipped and comfortable. Same facilities in all apartments, the only difference being castle views and Wi-Fi in the Superior category, with friendly staff, café with terrace and it’s all 10 minutes from Václavské náměstí. Q10 rooms (10 apartments €80 - 240). ABGHKLW hhh Appia Residences A-2, Praha 1, Šporkova 3, MMalostranská, tel. 257 21 58 19, fax 257 21 53 29, appia@europehotels.cz, www.appia-apartments.com. 22 sublime apartments with 1-3 bedrooms for long or short stays in a restored building around a quiet courtyard. An original chapel pediment is visible in the gables of one section of the hotel and its interior has been converted into a gorgeous private events/meeting room. Original stone floors and wooden beams complement the sumptuous furnishings in the apartments, and once here, you’ll probably never want to go home. Q (22 apartments €132 - 264). Breakfast €9. ABDGHLPRW hhhh Museum Pension I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 15, MMuzeum, tel. 296 32 51 86, fax 296 32 51 88, pension-museum@pension-museum.cz, www.pensionmuseum.cz. This is as good as bed and breakfast gets. A fantastic pension with a central location. The huge rooms (this is a converted school) are set around a quiet courtyard in a separate building far from the busy road out front. All are spacious, with TV, large bathrooms, sofas and enormous beds. Q12 rooms (singles €50 - 100, 5 doubles €65 - 115, triples €80 - 140, quads €90 - 160, 7 suites €65 - 200). ABGH6TU hhh Pension Atelier Art 12 G-2, Praha 6, Na Valech 12, MHradčanská, tel. 233 32 46 31, pensionatelier12@ centrum.cz, www.pensionatelier12.com. Close to Letná and within sight of one of the old gates of Prague, this homely pension is friendly, spacious and within walking distance of the castle, via the lovely gardens. Rooms are basic but comfortable with some bright colours providing the bathrooms with additional wake-up value. Plus, it’s in a quiet neighbourhood with shops and restaurants close by. Q TAI La Casa Argentina F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 35, MNám. American Buffalo Bill’s H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 9, MMůstek, tel. 224 94 86 24, w w w.buffalobill.cz. A cl ear example of how the West has won in Prague, BB’s is an American-style restaurant decorated like a saloon where the Duke or Clint Eastwood could meet for drinks. Although classic barbecued ribs and burgers are offered, Bill’s true speciality is Tex-Mex food in the form of burritos, enchiladas and, the crowning achievement of its genre, chimichangas. Limitless soft drinks can be had, but the glasses are so large you probably won’t dare have more than one. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 300Kč). APT Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V Jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. Music and booze memorabilia from the Ramones to Jack Daniels adorn the walls and ceilings of this, one of Prague’s most popular expat destinations. Big, juicy burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex, as well as cheap local specials, lunch deals and beer. Their Sunday breakfast/brunch deals are large, tasty and have free refills of coffee. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (100 - 250Kč). TAGBW Republiky, tel. 221 96 72 28, www.tgifridays.cz. The TGI brand offers the same huge-por tioned menu to homesick travellers in Prague as they do around the world. For a slice of Americana with your apple pie, free refills and craz y outfits, this is the place to be. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (250 - 350Kč). ABGSTU Republiky, tel. 222 31 15 12, www.argentinarestaurant. cz. A labyrinthine homage to comfort and cuisine with added spice from tango dancers, a toucan and unique swing seats at the cellar bar. Service is impeccable and the signature Pampas-raised Argentinean beef cooked to perfection (asado) at the open grill (parrilla). With a non-smoking winter garden, sports corridor with TVs and a wine cellar, this luxurious new addition to Prague’s fine dining scene is set to cruise forward. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (200 - 750Kč). AEGIP Sandwiches & Bakeries Bio Cafés F-3, Praha 1, Pasáž Broadway, Na Příkopě 31, MMůstek, tel. 777 74 75 18, www.bio-cafes. com/index.php. Bio, organic to Americans, food and drink in a sadly sterile and plastic environment. Sandwiches and (rather small) salads are pre-packaged, soup is served in Styrofoam and even the pot plants are plastic. Sandwiches are bread heavy but tasty and the leak and barley soup was delicious. Coffee, tea and juice (of the fresh and carton varieties) also available. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at J-6, Praha 2, Americká 8, tel. 224 25 67 71, Praha 5, Nádražní 25, tel. 251 51 27 77 & D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 9. PG 224 82 79 12, www.paneria.cz. Paneria is a chain of bakeries with a tasty range of sweet and savoury snacks; including pastries, sandwiches, soups and bread that fuels you up. The pasta is not known for its value or flavour however. Fresh and fast. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Also at F-3, Nekázanka 19; I-4, Vodičkova 33; E-2, Dlouhá 50 and many other locations. (40 - 100Kč). S Hostels Czech Inn K-6, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. Míru, tel. 267 26 76 00, fax 267 26 76 01, info@czech-inn.cz, www.czech-inn.com. The pun is excused due to the sheer design beauty and comfort these people have afforded your average backpacker. From some of the makers of Sir Toby’s and Miss Sophie’s, Czech Inn is the future of backpacking, we hope… the custom iron bedsteads and furniture, stylish fixtures, famous shower heads, café and wow-split-level apartments have already made the international press, even the 10 bed dorm is spacious. All beds have lockable drawers. Reservations necessary. Q33 rooms (12 doubles €50 - 57, 2 triples €58 - 65, 8 apartments €68 - 157, dorms €14 - 15). AUGBK T.G.I. Friday’s F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 27, MNám. Paneria D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 3, MStaroměstská, tel. Sir Toby’s Praha 7, Dělnická 24, MNádraží Holešovice, Argentinean velo Centre), MMůstek, tel. 222 21 05 68, www. el-gaucho.cz. Once off the escalator, shake off the shopping mall feel by attending to your carnivorous needs. The mixed grill is hearty and with just the right hint of charcoal to make it authentic. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (500 - 900Kč). PAUE Pensions Castle Steps A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova 7, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 19 41, fax 257 53 29 21, info@castlesteps.com, www.castlesteps.com. This 400-year-old building has expanded the number of suites, rooms and apartments available and added some great technical services for the businessmen or web addicted among us. Prague In Your Pocket tel. 283 87 06 35, fax 283 87 06 36, info@sirtobys.com, www.sirtobys.com. A friendly, excellently-run independent hostel. It’s out of the centre, but prices are good, transport connections abound, and it’s two blocks from Mecca club. Whether you want a dorm or a room with private bathroom, they have it. Plus garden, bar, full kitchen, internet and informative, knowledgable staff. Q27 rooms (1 single €35, 4 doubles €40 - 45, 4 triples €47 - 54, 6 quads €50 - 63, 12 dorms €9 - 12). AGB El Gaucho E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 11 (Ken- Subway I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 51, MMůstek, tel. 224 21 44 17, www.subwaysandwiches.cz. Subway ensures your sub in Prague is the same as in Paris, France or Paris, Texas so their quality hot and cold subs, myriad of dressings, salad accessories, the huge catering sandwich, cookies and frequent fliers schemes are all available here. Plus pivo - of course. ISIC cardholder discounts apply. QOpen 08:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also at B-2, Karmelitská 28. (59 - 148Kč). PS Republiky, tel. 224 82 66 62, fax 224 82 66 65, hostel@ travellers.cz, www.travellers.cz. The central location, internet access, laundry, baggage storage and no curfew makes this the backpacking hedonist’s number one choice. Q44 rooms (6 singles €37, 6 doubles €21, 17 triples €16, 11 quads €15, 4 apartments €80 - 117). AULGK Travellers’ Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. La Boca I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 20 73, www.laboca.cz. La Boca, junior to the Hotel Salvator next door, serves up large and value-filled Argentinean dishes, making for a good option when you fancy a touch of flair without making your wallet feel like you’re purchasing a ticket to Argentina. Within the expected rustic décor and brightly muralled walls the over-worked staff try their best and actually remain friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (150 - 350Kč). AGPTU Breakfast Ambiente PastaCaffé I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 8, MKarlovo nám., tel. 222 23 18 69, www.ambi.cz. From the corners of its business cards to the rims of its espresso cups, this is a shrine to Italian style. It is not what you may call comfortable, but then some must suffer for their art. Great coffee and inexpensive eggs and croissants. Also at Vězeňská 1. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also at E-2, Praha 1, Vězeňská 1. (70 - 150Kč). PA October - November 2008 28 RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojišti 12, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that features at the beginning of the Czech literary classic ‘The Good Soldier Švejk’ as the planned location of the never-to-be meeting “...at six in the evening after the war.” An oompah band keeps the atmosphere rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PAEG RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN Kolkovna E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 8, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 97 01, www.kolkovna.cz. As big and brassy as Mae West with a fistful of Viagra, Kolkovna serves robust family portions on one plate plus lovely tank beer from the owner, Pilsner Urquell. For all of the above reasons it’s been packed from day one but recent rumours of poor service and food, Kolkovna might want to change its prescription... Reservations a must, if you choose to try it. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (160 - 250Kč). PA 29 U Pinkasů E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 16, MMůstek, tel. 221 11 11 50, www.upinkasu.cz. The presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall whose not unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first pivnice in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught. A commemorative plaque and a tap mark the spot where this country’s most renowned beer began to flow in 1843. In today’s establishment you’ll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant no-smoking rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional, is uninspired. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 200Kč). AB Na blbým místě I-5, Praha 1, V jámě 9, tel. 224 24 72 99. A friendly cellar pub and restaurant near the Radisson SAS hotel with a surprisingly light interior, trendy lighting fixtures, exposed bricks and screens for watching sports. The lunch menu is well-priced and when it comes to dinner, the decent Czech dishes won’t break the bank either - try the Sibenice skewer or the Pozor meat mix. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. Czech Bredovský dvůr F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 13, MHlavní nádraží, tel. 224 21 54 28, www.bredovskydvur.unas.cz. Another modern version of the Czech hospoda tradition, Bredovský dvůr delivers cellar ambience dimly lit by funky lights, a long iron bar, cool furniture and excellent kitchen. An extremely popular lunchtime attracts the crowds with the 75kč menu until 2pm. The menu mimics the funky and old world fusion of the décor, with Czech dishes tweaked by international additions, pasta dishes providing a tasty and cheap alternative, and big screen enticing the sports fans. Try buck steak, venison goulash, or stick to old favourites. Additional seating around the open kitchen is available at the rear. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PA Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 21 22 40, www.kolkovna.cz. An excellent, upmarket restaurant owned by the Pilsner brewery decorated with period photos and brewing equipment. The menu includes all the Czech standards including pork knuckle and rabbit, but Celnice also serves some more imaginative and vegetarian options. Unfortunately, the large space can get noisy when the downstairs bar turns up the volume later in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (150 335Kč). PAGB věznů, MMuzeum, tel. 222 24 43 02, www.ferdinanda. cz. Two floors, two bars, two big screens, many tables, beer kegs, weird furnishings, and excellent service bring Ferdinanda to the hardly parched but very welcoming notice of Prague’s beer lovers. The food is good too with a delicious gulaš and more. Speedy lunch specials and breakfast menu add to their staples. Pivovar Ferdinand produces the Sedm Kulí 13 degrees beer apparently named for the seven bullets that killed Franz Ferdinand - the archduke, not the band. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (85 - 250Kč). GW tel. 224 22 78 05. Karavella is a little confused, bless the poor soul. Despite being in a landlocked country, they festoon the place with nets and plastic lobsters, and populate it with staff that they like to refer to as ‘salty sea dogs’. Enormous portions of excellent Czech-style dishes for a couple of doubloons help to overcome the sea-sickness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 250Kč). ABPU Století C-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 21, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. The food is great value, the atmosphere lively and the service fantastic. Even better, Století is one of the only restaurants that is seriously attempting to progress Czech cuisine while keeping it Czech at the same time. Plus, they are non-smoking and offer take-away. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). PTAUIGBS 81 39 64, www.svejk.cz. Someone spent some money (and not much by the look of it) to make a new restaurant look old – basically what a beer hall would look like in the Czech pavilion at the World Expo. That said, Švejk restaurants are always good for traditional food like duck, pork and wild boar served with dumplings, cabbage and a local beer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kč). A MMůstek, tel. 224 23 31 68, www.ucervenehopava.cz. Shyly hiding down a passage behind Staroměstské náměstí is this small set of rooms and passages, great for a quick, tasty and somewhat different lunch. It can be refreshing to find filled baked potatoes or pancakes around these parts, although this is still a very Czech bird, most particularly in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (250 - 300Kč). AG Švejk D-2, Praha 1, Široká 20, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 22 00 01, www.musketyr.com. A labyrinthine cellar space (it can seat up to 200 diners) with eclectic furniture and good service provides excellent, well-priced Czech and international dishes. Svíčková and gulaš – topped wi th lashes of freshl y grated horseradish – par ticularly recommended. Krušovice Mušketýr beer for 18Kč. Lovel y... QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (95 - 390Kč). B enc, tel. 222 32 98 56, w w w.upetr skeveze.cz. Golden vaul ted ceilin gs reach over you as you pick at your high-class Czech vi ttals or sip on that which you have sel e c te d from th e gothi c cellar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. (290 - 480Kč). AGP U Mušketýra I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 13, tel. 296 liky, tel. 224 81 26 03, www.bohemiabagel.cz. The original. Internet bar, child play room, and all the bagels and other breakfast goodies your hungry belly craves. A laundry list of sandwiches, grilled items, soups and desserts for the rest of the day. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. Also at Dukelských Hrdinu 48/Šimáckova 21, Prague 7, tel. 220 80 65 41. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Masná 2, MNám. Repub- U Červeného páva E-3, Praha 1, Kamzíkova 6, U Petrské věže J-3, Praha 1, Petrská 12, MFlor- Red Hot & Blues F-3, Jakubská 12, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 46 39. Daily breakfast for Brits and Americans plus one of the best weekend brunches in town. A distinct Czech-Mex flavour and some of the hardest working staff around. Until 11:30 weekdays, 16:00 at the weekend. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300Kc). ABE Ferdinanda I-4, Corner of Opletalova & Politických Brewery restaurants MMůstek, tel. 222 23 24 48, www.npivovar.cz. A 340-seat restaurant, the New Town Brewery, not surprisingly, serves its own brews. This could easily have become a theme restaurant, because it can and does cater to large parties, so come early or book ahead. Lots of smoked meat and traditional dishes. Try the pork knuckle. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500Kč). ABEGPTU 224 93 40 19, www.ufleku.cz. A tourist trap since they started brewing their dark, rich aromatic beer on this spot in 1499. The brew is worth the trip in itself, and should be accompanied by hearty pub food. The loud and boisterous crowds of tourists and locals are a show worth watching as everyone and his tour guide treks through. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (85 - 320Kč). A Novoměstský pivovar I-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 20, U Šuterů H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 4, MMůstek, tel. 224 94 82 35, www.usuteru.cz. A great Czech restaurant with a compelling mix of lackadaisical yet friendly waiters serves decent food in a seemingly never-ending set of rooms. Most dishes, including, to pick one, the chicken pocket stuffed with pork and cheese is worth any wait. And a visit to the bathroom affords the chance to buy deodorant, condoms, and toothbrushes – the restaurant is attached to a hotel. No smoking at lunchtime. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 14:00. (70 - 270Kč). A U Betlémské Kaple D-3, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 2, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 16 39. A fantastic deal amidst the elevated prices of the rest the Old Town area but only if you can get a seat. Lunchtimes are elbow room only, but Czechs are renowned for the quick lunches (hence the fabulous deals) so you shouldn’t have to wait too long for a table. Good beer (30Kč), good food, good people anytime though. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (90 - 220Kč). A U Modré růže E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 58 73, www.umodreruze.cz. The Blue Rose serves refined Czech dishes in an antique setting to make you feel like a lord or lady. The candle-lit 15th century brick cellar is an ideal place for a romantic dinner with your sweetheart. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (350 - 750Kč). AEGP Czech further afield 1092/8, tel. 224 24 25 77, www.restaurant-letiste. cz. In the cold environs of the new shopping centre by the airport Marriott this Budvar restaurant hardly entices with character. The traditional Czech cuisine is good and although prices are higher than in town, it’s worth grabbing a meal here before entering the vastly inflated prices of the airport itself. The café next door has comfortable seats but little else to attract other than there isn’t anything better at the airport. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. (120 - 440Kč). PTA Budweiser Budvar Restaurant Praha 6, Aviatická Perpetuum Praha 6, Na hutích 9, MDejvická, tel. Karavella E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 15/438, MMůstek, U Fleků H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 11, MNárodní třída, tel. 233 32 34 29, www.cervenatabulka.cz. Prague’s dedicated duck restaurant, although there are a couple of non-canard meals available. The duck, and filet mignon for example, is superbly cooked, as you’d expect; tender, tasty and with appropriate sides. Desserts should not be missed either - Czech favourites complement this local delicacy, the humble duck made great by cunning chefs. QOpen 11.30 - 23.00. Café hours: Mon - Fri 08.00 - 22.00, Sat 10.00 - 22.00 Closed Sun. (400 600Kč). AG Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 30 RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN Francouzská restaurace F-3, Praha 1, Náměstí Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 27 70, www. francouzskarestaurace.cz. Superb French (and some Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurant’s award winning chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make delightful appearances in one of the world’s masterpieces of art nouveau architecture (the Municipal House building itself) and interior. Lunch specials and a concert package lower prices somewhat, and try the Jazz Brunch on the first Sunday of each month. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (600 - 2,000Kč). ABEPU publiky, tel. 222 31 56 70. An authentic and sprawling café on a quiet square in Prague: delicious ambience, service and cuisine from this French-owned gem. Blackboard specials offer escargot and foie gras while the menu bestows the common people with omelettes and expertly cooked steaks. Add the people-watching windows, chess and backgammon boards and distinctly un-Old Town prices, and this place deserves to be as busy as it often is. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. Also at J-6, Praha 2, Americká 20, tel. 222 51 33 40, open 11:30 - 23:00. (90 - 300Kč). B 31 Neptun D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 2, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 12 62. The interior is like any other Chinese restaurant you’ve ever seen, but with a bit more wear and tear. On the bright side, the speedy chefs don’t spare the spice to appease Czech palates, which would explain the absence of any locals. Try the Kung Pao chicken. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 300Kč). A Indian Rasoi E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 84 00, www.rasoi.cz. Yet another contender jockeys for position in the ‘authentic’ and expensive Indian restaurant scene. Expats like this food and expats have money, so it seems the mantra goes. Above-average food is served to you with a long glare down their noses. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 17:00 - 23:30; Sat, Sun 11:30 - 23:00. (250 400Kč). PAUGB Chez Marcel F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 12, MNám. Re- International Allegro D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com. Prague’s first, and still only, Michelin Star rated restaurant. The quality of the Four Seasons hotel chain is obvious in the classic, oak-panelled line of Allegro’s interior as well as by the range of delicious Italian and Bohemian specialties on offer. Their view of the Vlatava and castle can’t be beaten, although their prices can. Often named the best restaurant in Prague. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. (950 - 1,150Kč). PAUEG MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 23 02 44, www.ambi.cz. This classic yet laid back Italian serves up delicous and not over-priced culinary creations, and the service is superb. Try the carpaccio con tartufi to begin and if you make it past the long list of homemade pasta, the steak and salmon are both expertly cooked. Chocolate fondue for dessert is a great finish for a great meal in a great restaurant. Check out their excellent lunch deals. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 350Kč). AGP tel. 222 31 45 73, www.restaurantapropos.cz. Make sure you’re hungry on arrival after making the slog down from the castle and across the river. The portions at this hunt-themed place (boar skins, hunt frescoes, a big sizzling grill) are big enough to sink a saint although you could always choose from the vegetarian menu (which strangely includes grilled turkey, shrimp and tuna). Beware the sneaky 10% tip that’s apparently included if you speak foreign. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (150-560Kč). AEP Le Saint-Jacques F-3, Praha 1, Jakub ská 4, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 26 85, www.saint-jacques. cz. Tiny restaurant filled with pricey but imaginative French fodder, excellent wine and live piano and violin every night, which keeps the drunken bypassers wandering between the voracious bars either side reasonably amused. Q Open Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00; Sat 18:00 - 24:00; Sun closed. (400 - 800Kč). AUIEG Sarah Bernhardt I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 19 59 00, www.sarah-bernhardt.cz. Hotel dining is reaching dizzy heights in Prague and the art nouveau design of this restaurant is divinely matched by Chef Jan Mošna’s inspired menues with set meals for the undecided or choose from swordfish, turbot or rabbit. Visit their famous jazz Sunday brunch (12:00 - 16:00, 890Kč). Live piano daily. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00 (10:30 Sat & Sun), 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 24:00. (500 - 900Kč) (750 - 1,500Kč). PAEG 226 00 61 20, www.uzavoje.cz. This classy house of wine consists of a restaurant, café, wine bar, delicatessen and accessories shop. The French and international menu is designed to complement the extensive wine list and includes a two course daily menu to a six-course gourmet menu. Individually priced dishes are available too. Fabulously decadent, this is an outstanding rare treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Café open 10:00 - 22:00. (550 - 1,300Kč). A Ambiente Pasta Fresca F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 11, U Provaznice E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 3, MMůstek, tel. 224 23 25 28. An unbelievable deal so close to tourist central and the beer-drinking ethos is prime in this atmospheric, busy and friendly spot. The food is good and large - the various platters are an excellent introduction to Czech cuisine, as long as you like meat. Hardworking waiters ensure a never-ending supply of Gambrinus (25Kč) and for luck in love, handle the eponymous ropemaker’s wife’s bust. No, really... QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (75 - 350Kč). B U Zeleného stromu D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 6, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 02 28. Prime location means a tireless and unquenched clientele, which is why the Green Tree has been bestowed the honour of tank Pilsner Urquell. Fresh original Pilsner is tapped to your table as you enjoy all the Czech specialties known to the great pub tradition. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (90 - 315Kč). A U Zlaté konvice E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 26, MStaroměstské, tel. 224 22 52 93, www.ukonvice.cz. Moderately priced traditional Czech dishes in a fabulous, many roomed, authentically decorated cellar space served up by a slew of avid waiters makes this a great Old Town getaway. Use the steps descending from beside the Grand Café Praha’s terrace as the entrance from Melantrichova is a tad stale. The copper vats hold Pilsner Urquell, and here any hope of a cheap session goes up the chimney as a half litre is 80Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 295Kč). A in the heart of Prague. The result is a ‘best of’ amalgam of several Parisian brasseries; a stunning Belle Epoque room with large windows. Specialising in delicious fresh seafood (any thing from oysters to lobster), game like rabbit in tarragon sauce and vegetarian onion quiche are also available. The sommelier has selected several uncomplicated wines (that can also be had by glass) that go wonderfully with the food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (130 - 600Kč). PA ní třída, tel. 224 05 40 70, www.brasseriem.cz. An authentic French brasserie from ex-Marriott Executive chef, Jean-Paul Manzac, who was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand rating this year. This subtle eponymous space is classy yet laid back - on one visit; jeans and diamonds were being gastronomically sated. Dishes from the open kitchen are simple, delicious and classically Gallic. Sublime, with daily specials, a business lunch (149Kč), Sunday brunch (695Kč), and French wine from 400Kč in the restaurant (with no smoking area) or the shady terrace. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (200 - 650Kč). PTAEGB tel. 224 24 85 12, w w w.f lambee.cz. Late Gothic vaulted ceilings, a decadent décor, and unrivaled cuisine combine to make this restaurant a haven for the rich and famous, a place that no gourmet can resist. Chef Dušan Jakubec has taken gastronomy to new heights with his sumptuous creations. The foie gras and glazed rabbi t leave you craving more, yet indulgence is not complete without giving into the sensuality of the vanilla creme brulée. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (750 - 1,780Kč). PTAEG U Závoje E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 25, MMůstek, tel. Apropos D-3, Praha 1, Platnéřská 7, MStaroměstská, Brasserie M H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 17, MNárod- Chinese Fu Hao H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída, tel. 721 87 35 37. Just look for the enormous Chinese vases in the windows opposite Prague’s most celebrated beer hall, U Fleků, to find this friendly restaurant decorated in the usual faux Chinese fashion. Although the menu is on the simplistic side, the dishes are delicious. Not surprisingly, given we’re in the Czech Republic, the duck is excellent. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (60-100 Kč). Flambée D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, MNárodní třída, Bellevue C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 18, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 14 43, www.pfd.cz. A fantastic setting, looking out to Charles Bridge, the castle and the Vltava, and a classic atmosphere sets the scene for you to feel dead posh if you want and if you can afford it. Chef Petr Bures prepares dishes like fillet of fallow deer with rose hip sauce, caramelised pears, homemade spätzle and wild mushrooms. Try their jazz brunch on Sundays. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 17:30-23:00. (1,000 - 2,000Kč). PTAUEGB Cihelna Bar fly D-4, Praha 1, U Dobřenských 3, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 21 41, www.barfly.cz. A richly decorated and well-kept cellar of which you get a bird’s eye view as you enter. The dishes are worthy of the prices asked and reliable on the whole. Good service and attention to detail are accompaniments to the good taste in evidence. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 210Kč). TAI French Brasserie La Provence E-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 9, MNám. Republiky, tel. 296 82 61 55, w w w. kampagroup.com. The people that brought you Kampa Park went to great lengths to create a genuine brasserie Macao I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 3, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 60 93, www.macaorestaurant.cz. The staff smile at you so broadly that you worry their heads may burst. This attitude is consistent enough that you realise it’s sincere. A well-priced menu is offered in the midst of the set for a Tom Cruise film circa 1986; all white, and gold, and hard. Although the dishes are all soft and sweet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kč). PAU Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 32 RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN Pravda E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 17, MStaroměstská, 33 Resto Café Patio E-4, Praha 1, Národní 22, MNárod- Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. For a taste of medieval living, dine below the vaulted ceilings of this small restaurant in an ancient building across the narrow street from Týn Church. Feast on wild boar, venison, and classic European dishes or just opt for the Old Town plate consisting of pork, roast duck, sausages, dumplings and cabbage. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 400Kč). ABP Gott Gallery Restaurant D-4, Spálená 29, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 996 775, www.gottgallery.cz. Karel Gott is probably the most well-known, and perhaps well-loved, singer in the Czech Republic. Surprisingly enough, his new venture is meeting with positive reviews. The restaurant has a 1930’s vibe about it; the inside is all Art Deco’d out - supposedly at Gott’s request - and his own paintings also liven up the interior space (hence the ‘gallery” part of the name.) Czech specialties dominate the menu - duck breast marinated in oranges; skewered pork with plums and lamb steak with garlic sauce and spinach. They serve breakfast; wines are Czech heavy, with a few from Chile, France and Italy, however the beer is Stella Artois. Q 150-260 Kč. PJAK Hybernia I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 22 60 04. To see the wait staff in action is like watching ballet with the fast forward button jammed down understandable when you see the queue at lunchtime. Baked, boiled, fried and grilled meat rules the realm here whether it be beef, pork, duck or other poultry. Vegetarian dishes are also available but we suspect it’s just an attempt to be politically correct. QOpen 09:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:30. (100 - 250Kč). PTAEGB La Degustation F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 18, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 12 34, www.ladegustation.cz. This self-styled Bohemian Bourgeoisie restaurant from the Ambiente Group is a luxurious corner restaurant with an open kitchen and a private dining room feel to it. Set menus intrigue the senses with a heady list of amuse-bouche, there is a pre- and post-theatre menu, and the sommelier has created a superb wine list. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (945 - 2,450Kč). A Marco Polo IV E-2, Praha 1, Široká 4/24, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 96 68, www.marcopoloiv.cz. A beautifully wooden and leather fusion of global influences provides the stylish décor to this upmarket café and restaurant, now in its fourth incarnation. The eclectic menu offers imaginative fish dishes, Thai and Indian curries, classic English roast beef, and ginger duck sauté to name a few. Fabulous pebble mosaics on the walls too. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (300 - 500Kč). AP Nostress E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 70 07, www.nostress.cz. They’re not kidding. With comfortable designer furniture and steady ambient music, stress is the last thing on your mind. Fusion and Asian cuisine dominate the menu, but you shouldn’t pass up a chance to try one of the delicious Belgian desserts - the owner is Belgian. Highlights include dim sum and wontons as well as celebrity sightings (Joseph Fiennes, Maggie Smith and, er, Begbie). Loud live music on Saturday evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (250 - 600Kč). AEIP olivarestaurant.cz. The superb Le Bistrot de Marlene is a hard space to fill, but Oliva, while being a wholly different restaurant, has managed to keep folks happy with its Mediterranean flair and flavour. A one-time chef from La Perle de Prague provides a succulent, sense sensation with almost every dish to counter the somewhat twee interior. Theme nights with guest chefs, a good wine list and superb olive oils add to the great service and menu. Tram N° 3, 7, 16, 17, 21 to Výton. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00; 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150 - 550Kč). A ní třída, tel. 224 93 43 75, www.patium.com. The Patio people are carving a colonial niche for themselves in Prague with this café (the other location has recently closed) with beautiful interior design and furnished from their own shops so you can have dinner then decide to buy your chair. The cuisine can be hit and miss, but on the whole, adept service and luxuriously languid atmosphere is a crowd pleaser. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 23:00. (120 - 420Kč). A tel. 224 93 40 28, www.streleckyostrov.cz. Perched on the eponymous island halfway Most Legii bridge, this elegant restaurant pleases weary walkers with affordable lunches (including good pizzas) while plying hedonists with wine and food from the gourmet menu. It has a bright and spacious inside seating area and cosy medieval cellars, but the main draw is the terrace with great views of bungling rowers and the National Theatre. Mind the enterprising waiters who will happily and illegally add their own tip to the bill if you’re not Czech – we’d have given them more if they weren’t so damn cheeky. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. ABGPU B us i ness brunc h » Lunc h » D i nner tel. 222 32 62 03. Not just the name of the old communist party mouthpiece (and a terrific Tom Stoppard play), but also a successful dining room, with huge windows for maximum pose street visibility, great high white walls and a very enviable mezzanine floor shaped like a box at the opera. The vichysoisse 165Kč and a delicious tagliatelle with parma ham 245Kč, are very good. Another Tommy Sjöö restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABGP Střelecký ostrov C-4, Praha 1, Střelecký ostrov 336, Contact: Spálená 29 110 00 PRAHA 1 tel.: +420 224 996 775 +420 733 120 697 info@gottgallery.cz www.gottgallery.cz WIFI free Oliva Praha 2, Plavecká 4, tel. 222 52 02 88, www. People Restaurant I-5, Štěpánská 23, MMůstek, tel. 296 32 93 29, www.discopeople.cz. Czech and international cuisine are on tap here. Speaking of tap, they’ve got four different beers and an extensive wine and cocktail list. Pastas, steaks and salads dominate the menu; nothing too inspiring. Interior is simple and clean; staff a bit condescending. Open till 2am on the weekends so keep that in mind for post-midnight munchies. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 120-370kč. PA Perfect I-3, Praha 1, Soukenická 4, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 222 31 16 00, www.perfectrestaurant. cz. A very risky name for a new restaurant, but the cheeky guys running this café/restaurant/club certainly have a point. With great breakfast deals, the 195-295Kč eat-allyou-can lunch menus and imaginative a-la-carte dining in the evening, it certainly sounds perfect – there’s even a children’s menu. After dark, the place transforms into a club with daily DJ music and a wide range of cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. AGPX MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 47 33, www.laveranda. cz. ‘Brave, original, creative, and innovative.’ La Veranda lives up to its credo, and surpasses it in a style unlike any other in Prague. The fusion cuisine satisfies the eye as well as the palate, offering choices that are low on fat. In the ultra modern Zen-like atmosphere, La Veranda touts chef-of-the-year (2002) Radek David’s creativity. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (350 - 500Kč). PTA La Veranda E-2, Praha 1, Elišky Krásnohorské 2, třída, tel. 224 93 36 57, www.suteren.com. Featuring V Zátiší D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 1, MMůstek, tel. 222 22 such alcohol-flavoured dishes as salmon mojito - marinaded 11 55, www.vzatisi.cz. A restaurant and wine bar that is with Caribbean rum and mint, pheasant on slivovice andvizual GGR 05 2008.indd best in Prague. Without being snooty, it maneven possibly the 1 13.5.2008 12:22:07 lemon sorbet with vodka, this place is too intriguing to miss. ages to serve fabulous and inventive meals to a middle-aged The eclectic menu lists New Zealand mussels, Moscow caviar, crowd of foreigners and locals. Indeed, the best things about it escargot, carpaccio and pasta, plus Thai dishes. In the cellar, (apart from the delicious pear-gorgonzola salad, the chocolate modern furnishings complement the bare brick walls. QOpen parfait with raspberries and the perfect latte) are the relaxed, intimate atmosphere, and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150 - 320Kč). AP know their wines. Not to be missed. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; NEW 17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). PAUG U Emy Destinnové I6, Praha 2, Kateřínská 7, MKarlovo nám., tel. 224 91 84 25, u-emydestinnove@seznam. Zahrada v Opeře I-5, Praha 1, Legerova 75, MMuzecz. Built in the birthplace building of the opera star, U Emy um, tel. 224 23 96 85, www.zahradavopere.cz. One of Destinnové is global cuisine at its very best. A cosy interior the most stylish restaurants in Prague occupies the brutalist envelopes you and detracts nothing from the menu of steaks, former parliament building, which, by an ironic twist of fate, seafood and regional specialties. The scallops are a highlight, also houses the well-guarded offices of Radio Free Europe. as is the grilled eggplant. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 Its inventive and often extravagantly presented dishes as well as its proximity to the opera, ensure a loyal dinner crowd - 24:00. Closed Sun. 180-420kč. each night.The multilingual staff doesn’t stop pampering until Universal H-5, Praha 1, V Jirchářích 6, MNárodní třída, the fat lady has sung. Now with a new South African inspired menu and sushi on Thursdays. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (150 tel. 224 93 44 16. Sitting colourfully, and maybe just a tad smugly, on a corner in the maze of small streets to the south - 400Kč). AEPU of Národní, this place is busy and robust. Both the food and atmosphere are pleasing, but the service can leave you wondering. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). AP Cicala I-5, Praha 1, Žitná 43, MKarlovo nám., tel. Vltava H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100, 222 21 03 75, www.trattoria.cicala.cz. The entrance is nondescript, but once down inside the cellar restaurant MStaroměstská, tel. 234 61 41 00, www.hotelpresiall doubts fade away. This place is good - especially the dent.cz. The appropriately named restaurant has panoramic plates of steaming cozze (mussles). But there is more than views of the river, a suitably designed interior and creative seafood; great pasta, super wines, service with charm, menu to match. Steak with roasted shallots served with smiles and patience, and photos showing the great and mashed potato, monkfish, Tandoori and delicious desserts the good dining here. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. to match the good wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:3023:30. PTA (120 - 250Kč). PA Suterén G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 26, MNárodí Italian Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 34 RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN Giovanni E-3, Praha 1, Kožná 11, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 26 05. The bits of exposed rock, the walls and vaulted ceiling of this cosy restaurant are a respectable faux medieval. Luckily, the stars, vines and other painted flora won’t distract you from the menu, which is so extensive that we gave up halfway through it. If it’s Italian and you want it, chances are Giovanni’s got it and it’s good. The Balkan breakfast sounds appealing, but avoid the bruschetta at all costs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). A 35 TV TOWER The highest building in Prague Food with a view These restaurants are the ones to head for if you’re yearning for spectacular views over the city while you hold the hand of your lover. Or if you need something to look at if the conversation wanes... MAnděl, tel. 257 15 42 62, www.movenpick-prague. com. Il Giardino is a hotel restaurant with a little flair, created mostly by the rooftop view over Prague, but also by their varied Mediterranean menu. Q Open 05:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (400 - 1,000Kč). PTAUG 13, tel. 257 32 06 88, www.petrinsketerasy.cz. The restaurant with one of the best views of Prague sits halfway up Petřín Hill and is furnished in a Slovak country cottage kind of way. Cuisine is the somewhat traditional international and Czech variety, and live dulcimer music accompanies dinner. Take the funicular to the Nebozizek stop to get here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (160 - 280Kč). AIEB Il Giardino Praha 5, Mozartova 1 (Mövenpick Hotel), Petřínské Terasy A-4, Praha 1, Seminářská zahrada 45 43, www.kogo.cz. Kogo is one of the best restaurants in Prague, for all number of reasons. Location, service, consistent high quality food, and ambience. The atmosphere is trendy and businesslike, full of movers and shakers enjoying good pasta, seafood and one of the best wine lists in the city. We love it. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Also at F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 22 (Slovansky Dům). (120 250Kč). PTAUB Kogo E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 27, MMůstek, tel. 224 21 TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 267 00 57 78, www.tower.cz. Prague’s tallest landmark seems equally loved and hated by residents and tourists. Whichever your decision, the view is tremendous and you can eat at the restaurant or café while contemplating the reality of vertigo. Prices are higher (boom, boom) than at other, more down-to-earth spots. You have to pay the 150/75Kč admission fee regardless, but you will get a 5% discount on your bill. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (180 - 350Kč). PTAL (InterContinental Hotel), MStaroměstská, tel. 296 63 09 14, http://www.zlatapraharestaurant.cz. From this vantage point you’ll be able to see a fair share of the city’s 100 spires. One the city’s most renowned restaurants, Golden Prague offers a changing menu of international and Czech nouvelle cuisine, business lunches for the more budget conscious gourmet, and a Sunday brunch accompanied by live jazz. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:00-23:00. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:30. (500 - 800Kč). PAEGB L’Angolo E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 7, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 224 82 93 55, www.langolo.cz. A relaxing, upscale Italian “restaurant lounge” set in a spacious corner building near to the Old Town square. Diners are lured in by the sight of display cases with tasty-looking pasta and vegetable dishes, and some deserts. Apart from well-prepared Italian meat and fish dishes, L’Angolo also has a wood-fired pizza oven adjacent to the cellar seating area. A sister restaurant of the excellent Kogo, L’Angolo has the impeccable service and great food that we expected. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAB MMůstek, tel. 224 94 86 50, www.incontro.cz. An inconspicuous door and enticing aromas herald this cellar authentic Italian restaurant with all the traditional favourites. Word of mouth has spread and the delicious and affordable home made pasta combined with crisp house wine are attracting many. Seafood and steak up the price, but this is an excellent spot to enjoy a slice of Italy whatever your budget, meat proclivity or age.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (140 - 580Kč). PAEG L’Incontro E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 19, Zlatá Praha E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 43/5 PANORAMIC OBSERVATION DECK Open daily: 10.00 a.m. – 11.00 p.m. PANORAMIC RESTAURANT Air-conditioned Open daily: 11 a.m. – 11.30 p.m. Reservation tel: +420 242 418 778 Zvonice I-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská věž, MNám. Repub- PANORAMIC CAFÉ BAR Air-conditioned Open daily: 10.30 a.m. – 11.30 p.m. Metro „A“, Stop Jiřího z Poděbrad Address: Tower Praha a. s. Mahlerovy sady 1, Praha 3 E-mail: info@tower.cz www.tower.cz Fedération Des Grandes Tours Du Monde World Federation of Great Towers liky, tel. 224 22 00 09, www.restaurantzvonice.cz. If you’re looking for something different and don’t have a fear of heights, then head to the top three floors of this Gothic bell tower, complete with 15th century bell. Zvonice is decorated with giant oak beams and serves everything from snails, carpaccio, steak and fish to classic Czech dishes. Don’t miss the view from the gallery up top. Gorgeous and exceedingly posh. Lunch menu for 290Kč. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (400 - 750Kč). A Matylda Botel G-5, Praha 1, Rašínovo nábř. (Mánes), MKarlovo Nám., tel. 724 80 01 00, www.botelmatylda. cz. Italian cuisine and an excellent wine list (390 - 1,200Kč) entice to this beautifully restored moored boat and then the view only adds to the experience. Sit inside or out and even stay in one of their rooms below deck. Breakfast, pasta and main courses, with a healthy selection of fish. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (130 - 500Kč). PAB Japanese Hokkaido D-4, Praha 1, Národní 23, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 21 18 88. Simply decorated in bamboo, paper lamps and knock-off samurai swords, this small sushi bar offers hot dishes as well as sashimi and sushi for exorbitant prices considering the quality. If nothing else, a small shop is also available which sells a great selection of Asian spices, oils, beer and other cooking supplies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (250 - 350Kč). AS dANico E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 21, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 18 07, w w w.danico. cz. T h e sl e ep er hi t of Pra gu e, dANi c o pre s en ts a war m a t m osph ere, grea t s er vi c e an d d eli ci ou s I talian cui sin e. Wi t h lam b an d s word f i sh carpa cci o, ve getarian lasa gn e, h om e ma d e tiramisu an d s om e 300 I talian win es to c ompl em en t your m eal, this is b e c omin g th e talk ab ou t town. Win es from 400Kč to four fi gures. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (160 - 470Kč). AGP Made In Japan D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnická 4, MStaroměstská, tel. 608 74 96 50, www.madeinjapan.cz. The sushi bar by the Four Seasons captures the raw tourist with a wide and colourful menu including sashimi and nigri, roe and eel, while the sister restaurant provides tempura and teriyaki. A good combo. A buy two get one free happy hour runs from 15:00 - 18:00 at the sushi bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at E-4, Rytířská 10, tel. 224 235 604. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 500Kč). AGPS October - November 2008 Prague In Your Pocket 36 RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN The Czech Menu The Czech language is notoriously difficult for foreign tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual letters, but also because it is a heavily declined language. Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but with the following words as a basis, you should be able to figure out what’s in your mouth. bez masa biftek brambor domácí dušené grilované guláš hermelín hovězí hranolky jehněčí jídelní lístek jídlo knedlíky kuře losos na roštu nápojový lístek niva oběd řízek ovoce palačinky pečené pivní sýr plněné přílohy polévka pstruh ryba rýže sekaná slanina smažené smažený sýr snídaně svíčková sýr špíz šunka těstoviny utopenec uzené vařené večeře vepřové vepřové koleno vinný lístek zelenina without meat beefsteak potato home made steamed grilled goulash, the Czech staple brie, often pickled with garlic and eaten with beer beef chips/french fries lamb food menu food dumplings chicken salmon roasted drinks menu blue cheese lunch schnitzel fruit crepe baked beer cheese, hard and served with paprika and onion, eaten with beer stuffed side dishes soup trout fish rice meatloaf; looks awful, tastes good bacon fried fried cheese, surprisingly good breakfast beef in cream sauce cheese grilled and skewered ham pasta a.k.a. drowned man, pickled sausage, eaten with beer smoked boiled dinner pork pork knee, particularly carnivorous wine menu vegetables RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN Louis Armstrong J-6, Praha 2, Čermákova 1231/4, MNám. Míru, tel. 224 25 16 71, www.louisarmstrong. cz. Cool tunes couresty of Louis and others, excellent food and a smooth vibe make this a great place. Added to by the fact the kitchen closes at 24:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Italská 30, tel. 222 25 36 70. (100 - 250Kč). AEGP 37 Man-na E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 10, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 01 01. A new Korean restaurant serving up spicy kimchi, bulgogi (beef BBQ) and other Korean specialities such as snails and octopus to stir fry and glazed pigs’ feet. If that doesn’t tempt you, perhaps their 500Kč/hr karaoke room might. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; 18:00 - 23:00 Sun. (200 - 350Kč). A Miyabi H-5, Praha 1, Navrátilova 10, MKarlovo nám., tel. 296 23 31 02, www.miyabi.cz. If you like your Japanese a little more relaxed (and let’s face it, they are very formal), then this intimate restaurant offers a café style at the front of the house and private rooms at the back. Well-presented food aimed at the non-expert. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (250 500Kč). AGU Medieval Cartouche E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 14, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 95 97, w w w.car touche.cz. A dark dungeon of delights awaits you, full of big and busty spit-roasted or barbequed bones and live medieval music. Hale, hearty and heavy - the food and the furniture. Enjoy, but go hungry. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). AI liky, tel. 224 81 38 74, www.usadlu.cz. Gargantuan medieval banqueting (with appropriate carnivorous leanings as well as great fish) served by buxom Hell’s Angels in a cavernous remake of the set of Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Tankards of ale slapped down in front of you until you scream ‘when!’ and indulge your Ivanhoe fantasies. Book early or take a battering ram. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Balbínova 22. (150 300Kč). AIP Roma Praha 3, Jagellonská 16, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 41 54. 24 hour pizza restaurant with an American pool table (20Kč a game) and a herna. Staropramen is 25Kč and the Gambrinus is bottled only. Good home-made Slivovice too. Q Open 24hrs. Also at I-5, I.P Pavlova kiosk. . (85 - 150Kč). ABS U Sádlů I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, MNám. Repub- Kosher King Solomon D-2, Praha 1, Široká 8, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 87 52, www.kosher.cz. In the heart of Prague’s legendary Jewish quarter, this strictly kosher restaurant is notable for its pleasant, light interior, and courteous, attentive service. They also prepare special Shabbat meals, which they will deliver to any hotel in Prague. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00; Friday dinner only by reser vation, Saturday lunch reser vations only. (500 1,000Kč). PAUG MNárodní třída, tel. 226 21 19 39, www.sherlockspub. cz. A new Old Town pub for the masses although Sherlock’s has some oddities (the music and choice of TV stations), the kitchen is open till 03:00. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. BK MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 30 86, www.solidninejistota.cz. A meat market in more ways than one. The girls and guys do their thing round the large bar and small dance floor while the kitchen does its thing until 05:00. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. (110 - 350Kč). AKP Sherlock’s Pub D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, Solidní nejistota H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 21, Mexican Hacienda Mexicana J-2, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 85 10 95, www.mexicana. cz. The restaurant is loud and not just on your ears. The décor is bright and in your face, and while you can disappear in the labyrinthine rooms, it may also mean the waiters can’t find you again. Good Czech-Mex and cocktails are available in this popular though somewhat pricey chain restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Also at Praha 4, BB Centrum. AGIPTU Tequila Sunrise F-3, Praha 1, Štupar tská 6, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 93 83. This casual restaurant gets high marks for its kitschy south of the border décor which includes desert murals, colourful blankets, boots, rifles and animal skulls – like Pancho Villa’s burial chamber. The usual Tex-Mex suspects are present as well as a good selection of steaks and a surprise or two including swordfish tacos. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (100 250Kč). A Late eats Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 90, w w w.palacakropolis.cz. Join the hip, late night crowd at this cool spot n ex t to th e Ak ropolis venu e, wh ere you can ord er great chicken wings, delicous onion rings and oth er excellent choices until 00:30. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (80 - 200Kč). Trilobit H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 715/15, MMůstek, tel. 224 94 60 65. Cellar bar with Czech and international dishes as well as a few vegetarian options. It’s a good place to sneak in a drink in relative anonymity, or grab a late meal. Kitchen closes at 01:30, except Sun 23:30. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250Kč). AKP U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen. cz. Good Czech-Mex standards jostle for space with salads, sandwiches and hot pitas. Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00 at weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). E U Sadu K-5, Praha 3, Škroupovo nám., MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 70 72. A very Czech pub with cool ice hockey game, pool downstairs, terrible toilets, spotty service, amazing collection of objets, or trash depending on your state of mind, and a pretty good kitchen. U Sadu is a local legend for all the above plus their wonderful summer terrace and the fact they serve beer till dawn and food till 04:00. Love it. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. (60 - 300Kč). NBK 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. Bandol offers a good selection of local and European wines as well as a full menu of international dishes from the restaurant on the ground floor which serves until 01:30. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. (100 - 400Kc). AP Bandol F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská, tel. Middle Eastern Dahab E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 82 73 75, www.dahab.cz. Escape the Baroque and step into this cool oasis of masterful mosaics, oriental carpets and sweet tobacco smoke bubbling from water pipes. Dishes run the gamut of Middle Eastern delights and drinks are concocted from recipes gathered from around the globe. Authenticity’s evil side is witnessed in the squat toilet offered to horrified tourists (there are Western alternatives). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (65 - 330Kč). AEGPST Karavanseráj G/H-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 22, MKarlovo Nám., tel. 224 93 03 90, www.karavanseraj.cz. Superb Lebanese and Indian restaurant and cul tural space - a programme of events, music and exhibitions is ongoing - hidden along the river but sadly without a terrace. The wide and authentic menu more than makes up for this. Traditional cuisine, fuul medames, stuffed vine leaves, lamb, grilled meats, fattoush and much more join fewer Indian offerings. Water pipes add to the ambience. Delicious, open for breakfast and with a good lunch offer. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00-22:00. (100 - 280Kč). E October - November 2008 Celebrity Café J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 51 13 43, www.celebritycafe.cz. Large portions of steaks, tasty international dishes, Asian specials and Czech traditions abound, along with convivial atmosphere and nook and cranny seating arrangement. DJs play tunes and friendly staff keeps everyone well lubricated. Kitchen closes at 00:30. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (100 - 250Kč). PAB 224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. A labyrinthine set of rooms, where good food adds to the late night party vibe and this is one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the Prague night, until 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (90 - 400Kč). AKP MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 39 22, www.bodeguita. cz. After a few mojitos and some samba, sample the Creole cooking and seafood at this Cuban restaurant. Kitchen closes at 24:00. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (100 - 1,000Kč). ABEIPU Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel. Zlatý strom D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 6, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 04 41, www.zlatystrom.cz. Home to a hotel and a music club (itself home to a dancefloor straight out of Saturday Night Fever). The restaurant’s kitchen is nonstop, serving up salads, pizza, pasta and the usual international and Czech standards. Q Open 24 hrs. (100 - 350Kč). AKP Lebanese El Emir Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Not that we’d usually recommend dining at a shopping centre, but El Emir Lebanese restaurant is something to recommend. The décor was well-thought out; including curtained partitions to separate you from the throng of shoppers. All the Lebanese favs are here plus a variety of grilled meats and a decent selection of lamb and fish. Plus they have really nice sandwiches; so it’s perfect for a lighter bite of not-mall food. Inside the Palladium mall. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 100-370kč. La Bodeguita del Medio D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 5, Prague In Your Pocket 38 RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN enc, tel. 222 31 40 71, metropol@PrahaEntertainment. com, www.metropol-prague.com.. They bill themselves as an Oriental restaurant - the menu boasts a variety of yummy dishes like hummus, falafel, chicken masala and beef fillet. We are very impressed with Chef Sunny Passi - he’s got a way with flavors. The restaurant is above a café and music club; but no loud music worries, the restaurant is glass enclosed. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. 110Kč-545Kč. JAE RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN Thai tel. 773 22 24 22, info@angelrestaurant.cz, www. angelrestaurant.cz. A fab new Pan-Asian joint in Old Town. Flavors are mainly Thai, Malaysia and Indonesian, with a touch of Japanese thrown in for fun. Both food and ser vice are excellent; Chef Sophia Smith has been around a while and always cooks up a good meal. Save room for desser t - the stick y toffee pudding is tasty. QOpen 11.30 - 14.30, 18.30-22.00, Sun 11.30 - 15.00. 250-600kč. 39 Metropol Music Cafe I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, MFlor- Kmotra H-5, Praha 1, V Jirchářích 12, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 41 00, www.kmotra.cz. The Godmother gathers extensive broods around her ankles as she hands down the old family recipe for making great pizzas from a wood-burning oven. Expect to jostle for a place with the other waifs and strays in need of the loving care that is meted out here. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. Also at Praha 5, Jindřicha Plachty 27. Open 11:00-24:00. (100 - 200Kč). APS Rugantino E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 4, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 81 72, www.rugantino.cz. Great pizzas and quick service make this a popular eatery with the lunchtime office crowd. Classic Italian would be preferable to the modern décor, but that’s just our opinion. On weekends the place is much more laid-back. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250Kč). AGPU Vegetarian Clear Head (Lehká hlava) D-4, Praha 1, Boršov 2, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 06 65, www.lehkahlava. cz. Healthy and delicious, this veggie place doesn’t take itself too seriously and despite the name, does serve alcohol. The open kitchen produces ratatouille, pasta, salads, burritos and more, with tofu (try it smoked) and eggplant high on the menu. Fresh juices can be combined to detox while you sit and chill, eat and chat in the cool décor of their three distinct rooms. Tricky to find, down a small alley, but worth it. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (80 - 150Kč). NG MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 89 45. Inscriptions from the Great Man, and black and whi te photographs of old Pra gue adorn th e walls. Th ere’s a room ou t back for discussing th e implications of Th e Trial or Metamorph osis in mu ted pri vacy. Ch ess and backgammon b oards available. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (40 - 100Kč). T Angel Praha 1, V kolkovně 7, MStaroměstská, Restaurant Babylon I-7, Pod Karlovem 12, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. 222 56 10 21, www.restaurace-babylon.cz. It’s Greek, it’s Italian, it’s steak, it’s fish. Babylon may be trying to appeal to all people, and they actually are doing a fairly good job of it. One of the newer restaurants in Vinohrady, its out of the way location may prevent people from stumbling onto it; but if you are staying/visiting around the Vinohrady or Nusle area you should definitely stop by. Main meal dish portions are very generous, salads a bit on the smaller size. The Greek items are usually the best; however the quality and presentation are quite high for everything we’ve seen. Oh, and the staff is pleasant and accommodating. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 120-370kč. PA Seafood tel. 222 22 12 18, www.reykjavik.cz. A plush, dark wooden interior sets the scene for you to experience some of the best seafood available in Prague. We can recommend the ‘fruit of the sea’ soup or the tenderloin of tuna. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABEPT Reykjavík D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 20, MStaroměstská, Pakistani Hallal Fast Food I-4, Praha 1, Růžová 10, MMůstek, tel. 605 00 31 13, www.hallalfastfood.com. Everyone’s raving about this place and while Beas and Himalaya standards have declined, this is your best, cheaper (but not cheap) option. Curries have proven to be a hit and miss affair - spicy and delicious to bland and forlorn. Basically, this is Indian cuisine but hotter. Chapattis, naan, samosas, etc. join vindaloo and others. Delivery available from this functional eatery. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20 - 200Kč). Orange Moon F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 32 51 19, www.orangemoon. cz. Reservations are recommended if you want to enjoy authentic Thai, Burmese and Indian dishes in this twotoned orange restaurant. In addition to rare finds like lychee nuts and exotic juices, Orange Moon also provides plenty of eye candy in the form of fantastic Southeast Asian photographs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at Praha 3, Palác Flóra, Vinohradská 151, tel. 222 74 20 38. (150 - 300Kč). A Siam Orchid I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 21, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 94 10, w w w.siamorchid. cz. Evocative aromas entice to this hidden first floor restaurant. While the authenticity of the place is not added to by the décor, the Thai massage next door (600Kč/hr), Singha beer and mention of farangs on the menu point to a real Thai dining experience. And the food doesn’t disappoint. A true and delicious slice of Siam in a ver y Czech cour tyard. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (120 - 200Kč). B Fr a n z K a f k a D - 2 , P r a h a 1 , Š i r o k á 1 2 , Pizza Bella Donna F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 3, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 97 50. Upstairs and down, the cheap-seat priced, B-movie pizza and pasta is served up amongst a myriad of framed photos of film greats. The restaurant, service and food itself seem torn between playing a B-list hero and a super-villain. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120Kč). E Rybí trh E-2, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 5, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 89 54 47, www.rybitrh.cz. Without a doubt, this restaurant is a fish-lover’s paradise. With a choice from live or freshly imported fish, one can swim through this menu with delight knowing whatever is chosen will truly satisfy. Chef Pavel Mares works his magic on the Caribbean Lobster, fresh from the aquarium in any style. St. Jacob’s scallops is a speciality only to be savoured, and the imperial mussels truly deserve their name. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (190 890Kč). AG Klub architektů D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 5a, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 40 12 14. The enormous, wide-ranging menu and wonderful location are reasons enough to give this place a try, but the Escher-esque tangle of super fluous copper piping and machiner y, and the scary spiders that make them their home, are the focal point of an evening in this designer cavern. Comfort food at decent prices. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). ABG Spanish La Bodega J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 32, tel. 222 24 09 91, www.labodega.eu. Take seat in the stylish restaurant upstairs, the relaxed high-tabled tapas bar on street level or the cellar. While the seating options are plentiful, the restaurant has noticeably slipped in terms of food and service. If it’s Spanish food in the centre you are dying for, ok, then - but we’d advise skipping. Hopefully, the La Bodega of old will return... QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (200 - 600Kč). PAE Coloseum I-4, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 8, MMůstek, tel. 224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. A pizza-maker slaving away in front of the flames of a wood-burning oven is the only spectacle you’ll witness at this coliseum. Sample excellent pastas and pizzas made with real mozzarella in a rustic setting. Try the Calabrese, it’s what Yanks call a pepperoni pie. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. Also at F-3, Vodičkova 32. (100 - 200Kč). ABP lovo nám., tel. 224 92 28 87, www.prosty.cz. This warm Italian restaurant has an open kitchen, with wood-burning oven, sitting between the two half-sunken dining areas which have creative lighting. Popular for the lunchtime menu, it also serves excellent pizza and pasta for dinner. QOpen 10:00 23:00. (110 - 260Kč). PAS As of the first Sunday in March you can join us for our special Tea houses Dobrá čajovna E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 14, MMůstek, tel. 224 23 14 80, www.cajovna.com. A purple-robed Buddha watches over the garden to ensure outer peace amongst the youthful customers whilst inside the place is naturally full of candles, crockery and joss sticks, for sale too. The largest tea selection we’ve seen and some of the highest prices too. Colonial echoes with the ring-thebell-for-service ethos. QOpen 10:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 21:30. GB U Dvou šálků J-5, Praha 2, Blanická 8, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 51 52 22, www.cajiky.cz. One of the best tea rooms around although the fact that it is so busy means it can take a while to get served. Small eastern inspired food menu and vast tea selection. Play games, chat and lounge. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Also at U Kostela, J-1, Praha 7, Strossmayerovo náměstí 9, tel. 266 71 14 30. In your_vnitrek_maly.indd 1 sunday Brunch Every Sunday 12.00 - 3.00 pm Great salads and starters. Steaks and fish dishes direct from the grill and seasonal desserts. Soft drinks, coffee, tea and beer included! Parking in the hotel garage free of charge. Fresco Vento G-6, Praha 2, Rašínovo nábř. 62, MKar- Giallo Rosa F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Re- publiky, tel. 604 89 89 89. This small take-away place decked out in football scarves serves the closest thing to a New York-style pizza that we’ve seen in Prague. What’s more amazing is that it also provides as much oregano and spicy oil as you need, gratis. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (From 25Kč/slice). AGS Price 495,- Czk per person Children to 6 years of age free, 6 - 12 years half price Courtyard by Marriott Prague Flora Lucemburská 46, Praha 3 – Flóra Tel: + 420 236 088 210 Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 20.5.2008 15:04:57 40 CAFÉS IN THE OLD TOWN This chapter only reviews our selection of cafés in the Old and New Town, the well-touristed area between the river and Wilsonova road. For cafés in other areas of Prague turn to pages 60 - 71. stale donuts have sadly not reappeared but the beautiful and historic space is well worth visiting for breakfast, a sandwich or meal (chef Zdeněk Pohlreich hails from the Radisson SAS Alcron and Marriott), although reviews have been hit and miss. A decent cocktail list will keep you here late. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400Kč). PA CAFÉS IN THE OLD TOWN DISK Café D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 11 10 65. A superior café on the Royal Way belies its sleek design by actually being the café for the DISK Theatre, the place of study for the Czech Academy of Performing Arts (DAMU). Join wannabe thesps, stage hands and directors for well-priced (especially when you consider the location) sandwiches, salads and calorie-laden but superb desserts. A full bar is of course available too - Staropramen is 40Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 115Kč). elegant in town. You’ll be treated to nice service amidst beautiful surroundings, and we dare you to turn your head when they start wheeling the cake cart around. A breakfast menu, plus sandwiches and salads make this a good break point no matter what time of day. QOpen 7:30 - 23:00. 90-470Kč. JAEB 41 Au Gourmand E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 10, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 90 60. Small cafe with superior pastries, savouries and tortes plus many more items to slimline your wallet and expand your waistline, but, as Kenny Everett said, it is done “in the best possible taste.” Despite Prague’s growing café culture, baked items have always remained below par considering historical links and geographical proximity to Vienna and Au Gourmand makes a lovely change. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 8:30 - 19:00, Sun 9:00 - 19:00. Also at Au Gourmand Rive Gauche, C-2, Praha 1, U lužického semináře 23, tel. 257 53 24 34. Bresto Prague 1, Štěpánská 31, MMůstek, tel. 222 21 28 10. New teeny tiny cafe and wine bar. Early hours make it nice for a pastry and coffee, stop by at lunch for one of their freshly made sandwiches and in the evening choose from their extensive wine selection. And what welcoming staff we have! QOpen 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 22:00. (50-200kč). J Café Amsterdam I-4, Praha 1, Washingtonova 9, MMuzeum, tel. 222 22 01 85, www.cafeamsterdam.cz. An Amsterdam café that has clogs, bicycles and other things Dutch except what everyone assumes will be in a café called Amsterdam… you can smoke, but not anything wacky. Clean lines, newspapers, cakes, snacks, sandwiches, full bar and a good variety of breakfasts draw the business and tourist crowd in this increasingly gentrified area near the railway station. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Café Jungmann E-4, Jungmannovo nám. 7, Prague 1, MMůstek, tel. 222 22 01 61, www.cafejungmann. cz. A dark pub has been transformed into this Ikea-styled café well-located to attract tired shoppers and tourists from Wenceslas Sq. Neutral tones and MTV beats on the plasma screens join sandwiches, salads, crepes and a few steak/ fish mains in their tasty menu. Soups are delicious if tepid and the daily special is excellent value. New world wines attract the interest when .3 of Pilsner Urquell is 50Kč. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250Kč). AW tel. 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French style, this historic café is for anything but bourgeois tastes. Café Louvre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast is served that one can enjoy with an international newspaper. Whether you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard hall or indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the perfect place to have a great café experience. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). PTAG MMůstek, tel. 224 94 91 33, www.coffeeandcigars. cz. Orange theme, white leather, Očko on TVs, cinematic images of the eponymous objects (and others beginning with a C) line this ubercool café near Cinema Světozor. The expanse of glass leads to perfect people watching, but the media types inside don’t want to do the watching. Breakfast, cakes, baguettes, salads, pasta and even steaks are small and tasty but slightly overpriced (100 - 240Kč). But if you want cool, you’ve got to be wiling to pay for it. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. W Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 22, MNárodní třída, Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Týn 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 89 57 88, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best coffee in town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies and cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons you in the winter months, and in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by some good jazz from Ungelt in the basement. Beware of wandering stag parties from Legends across the square. Check out their shop almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 160Kč). Also at D-2, Karprová 11, open 08:00 - 19:00; D-3, Řetězová 9, open 08:00 - 20:00. TAB Face Cafe F-2, Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky. The place to show your face. Quite an upscale café for a mall, but with a coffee, wine and cocktail list as long as theirs, it’s a worthwhile trip. They’ve taken the theme seriously; the menu is framed and the walls are covered with head shots. Sit inside along the window and stare at the faces shopping below. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Nordica I-3, Praha 1, Zlatnická 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 32 39 00, www.scandinavianhouse.cz. The clean-cut, well-lit café in the Scandinavian House is a mellow place for some herring and vodka. Nordica provides more than that though, with breakfast, toasties, salads and sandwiches providing a well-priced snack menu. Readings, live music and art events occur here occasionally. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. (42 - 130Kč). A Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 1, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 21 84 93. Slavia is a throwback to days gone by with a beautiful art deco interior and photos of celebrity patrons. Its location can’t be beaten, with large windows open to Národní Divadlo and the Vltava. Service is fine, but you can sit here for quite a while without purchasing much from the very well-priced menu. Good coffee, tasty meals, snacks and pastries are all available. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (45 - 320Kč). APU tel. 222 32 59 08. A tiny, jumble-filled cellar, secluded down a passage. Mellow jazzy tunes caress the random selection of antique bric-a-brac whilst you play with the froth in your latte and meditate on the good life. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75Kč). U Budovce F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 7, MNám. Republiky, Cigars and Coffee I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39, Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, MNárodní třída, 224 21 05 97, www.cafe-cafe.cz. Slap bang in the middle of tourist central, but far cooler than many cafés in the area. Café Café is a well-known gay hangout, but it also attracts hetero hipsters who look the look, talk the talk and wear the ware. Coffee, cocktails, large salads and the Mediterranean menu provide lubrication and sustenance. Breakfast served everyday until 12:30. QOpen 9:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (150 - 350Kč). AB Café Café E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 10, MMůstek, tel. tel. 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. The Globe provides a sophisticated atmosphere to meet other enlightened souls. Darker walls indicate an edgier characterisation to this bastion of expat life which had become a tad stuffy in its middle age. The good food, books (new and second-hand) and internet café remain but now we also have Gambrinus on tap as well as live music and events spicing things up. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120Kč). AEU U Prstenu D-3, Praha 1, Jilská 14, MStaroměstská, C o ff e e Fe l l o w s E - 2 , P r a h a 1 , D l o u h á 2 0 , Café Imperial I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 15, MNám. Republiky, tel. 246 01 14 40. After a long facelift, the landmark Imperial has reopened with the Art Nouveau tiles and wood carvings still in situ within the high ceiling-ed rooms. The MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 02 00, www.coffeefellows.cz. Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee and syrups. Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your attention but try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven with some toffee mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few armchairs have their backs to the room and the banquette seating proves a tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy too, but it is tasty. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PABW tel. 222 31 19 67, www.coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks is snoozing in Seattle, a cunning Polish franchise outfit has sneaked a large number albeit somewhat faceless cafés into Prague. The coffee comes in paper cups and ranges from 32Kč for an espresso to 84Kc for the large white chocolate mocha. The sandwiches, panini and cakes are tasty and reasonably priced, and there’s a 120Kč breakfast offer. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Praha 1, Na příkopě 3, Palác Flóra & I-4, pasáž Rokoko, Praha 1, Václavské nám., tel. 224 2 4 70 61. PAGS Grand Café Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 224 22 42 40, www.grandcafeorient.cz. The first floor of the Cubist House of the Black Madonna is home to a truly unique Cubist-style café that was reconstructed from photographs to match the one that was here from 1911 until the 1920s. Even café-capital Vienna doesn’t have one of these. The simple menu lists pancakes, sandwiches and some good coffee. Try to get a seat on the balcony overlooking Celetná street. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP Grand Café Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 22, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 22, www.grandcafe. cz. The Grand Café produces cakes, tortes and other sweet delicacies for clock-watchers on Old Town Square and for visiting dignitaries at the castle. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (95 - 490Kč). A tel. 776 21 66 80, w w w.uprstenu.cz. A decidedly modernist establishment; crackly 1930s jazz crooning and funky old wooden chairs combine nicely and contrast with the post-modernity of the gallerie itself next door. This café is empty of both pretension and people - very pleasant indeed. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (50 - 210Kč). Coffeeheaven E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 1, MStaroměstská, Velryba H-5, Praha 1, Opatovická 24, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 23 91. Packed and popular, The Whale has delicious aromas wafting from the kitchen into the main seating and eating area out front. Vegetarians will delight in the extent of options available here and waiting diners of all proclivities are often out of luck as people tend to linger. Go down the hall and emerge into a sofa-laden café for less upstanding evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 200Kč). Vesmírna I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 5, MMuzeum, tel. 222 21 23 63, www.vesmirna.cz. Not the fastest food in the city as it’s all fresh made, but you are doing a good deed as this café is part of a training programme for the mentally disabled. With internet, art shows, a kid’s area and no smoking zones, this place caters for all although the menu steers towards salads and veggie options. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 200Kč). Karlín London J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovská 32, MFlorenc. Cr emeria Milano E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 20, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 10 10. Luxurious decadence and design in edibles, staff and surroundings – as is befitting to its location on Millionaire’s Row. Try the Cream & Dream ice cream (50Kč a scoop) or sit inside with a range of global news titles and we defy you not to try the chocolate, carrot or any cake. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. This café serves up excellent cakes, pancakes and ice cream with cheblíčký being the only savoury offerings. The oddity here is the London murals, the faux double-decker bus, plus Winston Churchill and the Queen watching you sip your coffee, while the bathroom entrance is through the red phone box. Q (40 - 150Kč). Yessi Café I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, Kavárna Ob ecní Dům Náměstí Republiky 5, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 222 00 27 63, kavarna. od@vysehrad2000.cz, www.vysehrad2000.cz. Come for the atmosphere as well as the treats. This Art Nouveau café on the ground floor of Obecní Dům is one of the most tel. 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the makers of Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual café for the masses. Purple and green dominate the upholstered sofas and stools. Smoothies and juices are sadly pre-made, sandwiches too for the lunch rush but you can also build your own. Italian water ups the price, but the veggie and hummos sandwich (99Kč) is superb. Alcohol and Illy coffee also served. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBS Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 42 NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN This chapter only reviews our selection of nightlife venues in the Old and New Town, the well-touristed area between the river and Wilsonova road. Prices are higher in the Old Town as a rule but that doesn’t stop the party people. For nightlife in Malá Strana, Vinohrady & Žižkov, Letná & Holešovice and Smíchov turn to pages 60 - 71. MStaroměstská, tel. 721 882 557, www.rasoi.cz. One of the city’s best late night hot spots, Bombay seldom disappoints with a wide range of cocktails, DJs who actually play what the crowd wants to hear and a diverse clientele in the right frame of mind to have fun. Enough said. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. ABP NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN Joe Café I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 1, MMůstek, tel. 221 11 17 21, www.joecafe.cz. Image is important, and the hip crowd you see lounging at Joe’s seem to have dropped from the overhead Fashion TV screens - and their carefully maintained looks are not in vain, as little winking TV cameras record the poses, perhaps broadcasting them in a restaurant in a parallel universe. Back in Prague, Joe serves good pastas, meat dishes, cocktails, and occasionally the warbling of karaoke echoes all the way onto the square. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. (150 - 380Kč). BP Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. Tagged out front by the sculpture of an iron goat, Kozička is entered via heavy red curtains, down the stairs and into the labyrinthine set of rooms. Good food adds to the late night party vibe and this is one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the Prague night - till 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. AIP 43 Bombay Cocktail Bar E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, Cover story An up-close and personal view of the Astronomical Clock’s lovely face. Built in the 15th century, it’s one of Prague’s endearing landmarks - even if the accompanying show lasts about 10 seconds. Watch the show, but don’t expect to learn the time - this clock is way too fancy for minor duties such as time telling. know the (Žitná) Ridgeback of late, this is actaully a completely new venue, although some similar faces make appearances in this two-room spot, and the vibe is dictated by the music and the crowd it attracts. Q Open 14:00 - 02:00. Fri & Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. E Bars Aloha Wave Lounge E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 11, MStaroměstská, tel. 724 05 57 04, www.alohapraha. cz. Wear a flower in your hair and head downstairs to Aloha’s cocktail lounge, featuring a long bar, Pacific cocktails at nice prices (try the Chi-Chi, with vodka, pineapple and coconut), and a dance floor to hula to nightly R&B and rock music. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. PAE liky, tel. 224 82 81 10. Finding a seat in this warm and bustling, bamboo-laden bar can be a demanding task but a fine array of cocktails and Pilsner Urquell on tap will help you to relax afterwards. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 10, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s has been around for a fair while now, but it has managed to keep the ‘it’ that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. AEP NEW Bambus F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 12, MNám. Repub- Cloud 9 J2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. 224 84 29 Bar and Books F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 80 82 50, www.barandbooks.net. Deep red walls and ceilings, soft leather benches, dark wood finishing, books filling one complete wall and impeccable service typify Bar & Books. Cocktails (140Kč) vie with an astounding array of whiskey, wine and cigars in this classy setting with cool tunes and Bond on TV. Salmon and club sandwiches, caviar and chocolate fondue are on the small but inspired menu. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (105 - 295Kč). AP tel. 222 32 92 21. Not a rock bar at all. Swing with the smart set in this flash and polished bar/restaurant with huge windows and chandeliers - all the better to see the beautiful models sipping and sashaying. The aprons will come buzzing around you to offer expertly crafted drinks, succulent sushi, and a reassuringly expensive bill. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. APU tel. 222 32 86 43. The soothing interior is flanked by stunning old bookcases. Seems like a suitable place to get quietly smashed on absinth whilst pretending to be intellectual, or to have a cheap and healthy lunch-time snack. The best thing about this place is the diminutive, sheltered garden at the back, perfect for spring days. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. U 99, info@cloud9.cz, www.cloud9.cz. Nine floors up, Prague’s first sky bar offers stunning views, a cool interior, smooth sounds and amazing cocktails. A master bartender mixes up old favorites plus a line of signature Cloud 9-only concoctions. A small grazing menu offers an eclectic line-up of tastes and weekend DJ’s keep the vibe going. Atop the Hilton Hotel. Highly recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. JAE La Belle Epoque D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 8, Coyotes E-3, Praha 1, Malé nám. 2, MStaroměstská, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 19 26. The place is decked out with aesthetic treasures such as American highway signs, Japanese car dealership merchandising and, ever since some minor film star went there once, an attitude to make Joan Collins seem down-to-earth. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAI tel. 224 21 60 00, www.coyotes.cz. L’Aperitivo has just changed its name to Coyotes (that film has much to answer for) but as yet we aren’t sure if the karaoke, go go dancers and theme nights will remain the order of the day. Watch this space... QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PA La Casa Blů E-1, Praha 1, Kozí 15, MStaroměstská, Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandská 2, MNárodní třída, Barock H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 24, MStaroměstská, tel. 776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a chameleon as it appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink then suddenly you’re having a crazy time in what was the smallest bar in Prague. A kitchen (good, cheap eats) and small music club downstairs plus more tables have almost quadrupled the bar space. The fun factor has not been diluted. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. tel. 224 81 82 70, www.lacasablu.cz. A package deal of generic South Americana sold as the real deal. A pleasing and soothing spirit pervades the darkened corners, which are perfect, when a little recuperation is needed, for sprawling in but at the same time you can perch at the bar and find yourself in the midst of a mini Mardi Gras. Ay caramba the food is great too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. EK6W 31, MKarlovo nám., tel. 222 23 33 34, www.molotow. cz. Requisite black marble, zoot suit silver trappings in the bathroom and pretty folk on mobiles sipping at the bar. However, Molotow transcends the cliché and provides a wicked although somewhat expensive night out. Mojitos et al. are 125Kč, but, as ever, sit at the bar, make friends with the talented staff and see if they’ll give you a Dragon’s Breath, which even if you pay for it, is worth the spectacle. And the hangover… QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. AP Swank E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 499/27, MMůstek, tel. 777 32 99 17, www.swankbar.cz. Cool and minimalist or plastic and pretentious, Swank can be both, but there’s no denying they serve a good cocktail. Tucked away from the madding crowd, Swank offers a no smoking area, happy hour (50% from 15:00) and events and parties in addition drawing a thirsty bunch of drinkers most nights. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. AG Tretters E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 3, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 11 65, www.tretters.cz. The bar certainly seems sure of its leading role here, swallowing up so much of the space that it leaves little room for customers. And rightly so. Committed barmen can rattle up some seriously decent cocktails and they serve the best Bloody Marys in town. Wear a suit or the staff will probably sneer at you. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. AP Trilobit H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 715/15, MMůstek, tel. 224 94 60 65. Surprisingly bright for a brick cellar, this bar and restaurant serves up decent Czech and international dishes as well as a few vegetarian options. It’s a good place to sneak in a drink in relative anonymity, or grab a late meal. Kitchen open till 01:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AP Tropison cocktail bar E-2, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 8, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 80 12 76, www.tropison. com. The top floor of the hideous Kotva shopping complex has turned into a tropical oasis by transforming into a rocking Latino club, with regular Salsa lessons, shows, club nights and a obstinately Czech menu. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri 20:00 - 05:00, Sat 19:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 03:00. AEP Ultramarin H-4, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 22 49, www.ultramarin.cz. Deep in an old cellar, Ultramarin has pricey but decently made drinks and a few bugs to iron out service-wise. They’ve browsed through the chic end of the renovation brochure producing a feel that is definitely style over substance. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. AEP Zapa Bar Dušní 6, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 58 99, www.zapabar.cz. If you’re looking for a quiet place to chat and have a cocktail, Zapa is for you. Prices are decent for the centre of town, the staff is pleasant and you can usually get a seat and relax. QOpen 18:00 - 2:00. Molotow Cocktail Bar H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. Blatouch E-2, Praha 1, Vězeňská 4, MNám. Republiky, www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and tourists, this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not just because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or Wild Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two of Dusk till Dawn’s barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60Kč and Jack 80Kč. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350Kč). A 221 14 63 37, www.hospodalucerna.cz. A long, loud bar with the rock feel of the music hall opposite and serves up decent and cheap meals in the belly of the city. A 30 person private dining room is available or join the throng in the carved totem pole littered room with alcove tables and various people eating, drinking and being merry. This hospoda often hosts bands’ post-gig nights. During the day, enjoy the atmosphere – it’s been here since 1908. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. KW Harley’s E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 18, tel. 227 19 51 95, Hospoda Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39, tel. Papas D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 8, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 22 29, www.papasbar.cz. It’s all louche and lazy at Papas. Red walls, yellow leather banquettes and smoky glass give an upmarket feel. The Mediterranean menu is the usual, yet tasty, mix of salads, pasta and fish. Why does everyone insist on scrawling cocktail specials in neon pen across perfect people-watching windows? QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A Repete F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 17, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 81 40 62. A long, many-roomed bar tucked behind Kotva and appealing to the Old Town crowd looking for a cheaper, calmer place to sup some drinks. Friendly staff and happy drinkers provide a decadent atmosphere later, while wine-sipping shoppers fill the tables during the day. Pilsner 35Kč. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:30. MKarlovo nám., tel. 721 44 88 76. Religious iconography abounds with hand painted murals in this world and rhythm live and DJ music venue and bar. Confusing for those who Chateau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 63 28, www.chateaurouge.cz. A local legend. This large, dark red bar continues to be the place to head for to indulge a multitude of vices. A deeper and darker cellar room kicks in later in the evening as a DJ and dance venue, thus giving dedicated nocturnalists another central venue to frequent. Early on it provides a quiet alternative for a bit of chilling. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. AE Ridgeback H-5, Praha 1, Karlovo nám. 288/17, Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 44 NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN Clubs One of Prague’s busiest roads leads to the city’s first truly Japanese karaoke experience. Forget embarrassing yourself in front of a bar full of people, this place sports five rooms for 6 to 15 exhibitionists to wield the microphone in private, hi-tec glory. Full bar, sushi bistro and full complement of Japanese delicacies invite a Lost in Translation experience. Q Open 18:00 - 02:00; Fri & Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Prices begin at about 100Kč pp/hr. PAGK tel. 224 21 22 40, www.celnice.com. Young Czech ladies dressed in the day’s fashions, usually nearly see-through knee-length white pants and heels, ponder the differences between expats in plaid shirts and tattooed bartenders who look like they just stepped out of a fashion magazine. Dance chart toppers get a lot of airplay here. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. ABGP NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN Solidní nejistota H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 21, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 30 86, www.solidninejistota.cz. This long red hall divided by an oval-shaped bar is a meat market in more ways than one. Older women arrive early to colect bar stools, younger women come later for the dancing while the most beautiful show up any time knowing they’ll always be offered a seat. Juicy steaks cooked to order until 03:00. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. AKP 45 Be kara OK! I-5, Praha 2, Legerova 78, MMuzeum. MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 05 02, www.karlovylazne. cz. Set up as Prague’s superclub, this place has been rebuilt with panache, e.g. the transparent floor thus enabling you to comfortably look up girls’ skirts. Live bands, chillout rooms and free internet access in the basement, standard tunes one floor up, eclectica up one again, and more hard core dance tracks in the loft. Q MCM Internet Café open 10:00 - 05:00. Club open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission 100Kč. MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 21 56, www.lavka.cz. Lávka occupies a beautiful corner right next to Charles Bridge, with terraces looking across the water to the castle. This is about as apt and tasteful as say... putting Elton John in charge of your funeral arrangements and expecting an occassion of grace and dignity. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. AEKPU Karlovy Lázně C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábreží 198, Klub Lávka C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 1, Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, Studio 54 J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 38, www.studio54. cz. Where the crowds go for the after party, things often don’t kick off here till well into the morning, so be cool and arrive fashionably late. Don’t forget your sunglasses. QOpen 05:00 - 15:00. Admission 100Kč. U Bukanýra F-1, Praha 1, Nábřeží L. Svobody, MNám. Republiky, tel. 608 97 35 82, www.bukanyr.cz. Find Bukanýra, a houseboat-looking floating bar and club at another new address under Štefánikova most. It’s small but friendly and always busy with chilled groups lounging in the comfortable seating. Various DJs spin discs while boozers smooze and movers groove. QOpen , Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. The summer terrace bar is open 16:00 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon. B La Fabrique E-4, Praha 1, Uhelný trh 2, MMůstek, Dias y Noches Masná 9, Mnám. Republicky, tel. 222 31 61 33, www.diasynoches.cz. Low lights, and a big dance floor make the noches happening here. DJ’s, both local and international spin the tunes, with more than a nod to Spanish/Latin/South American notes. Has random drink specials as well, usually during the week, so maybe you’ll get lucky. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Sun 18:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 03:00. Cafe is open daily 10:00-24:00. 329, www.discopeople.cz. Join your bell-bottom wearing friends in this new basement disco dance hall. Disco People actually has DJ’s playing a wide variety of music, including club, R ‘n B, hip-hop and stuff from the ‘90’s. Hey, where are the hit’s from the ‘70’s, Disco people?!?! At any rate, it’s a small space, but laid out well; two bars and a kitchen that stays open till 4am. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Sun. tel. 224 23 31 37, www.lafabrique.cz. A swish complex of large underground rooms sets the scene for the La Fabrique’s definition of a music club. The hordes of uniformed employees are friendly and efficient. Downstairs, the dance floor is packed with a mixture of expats and Czechs doing the meat-market disco stomp to whatever weird mixture the DJ (who couldn’t gauge the atmosphere of a morgue) serves up to them. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. AP Disco People Štěpánská 23, MMustek, tel. 296 329 MMůstek, tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. The more popular local bands and the smaller international groups ply their trade here fairly regularly. Every Saturday you can find an un-hip, unpretentious crowd cavorting at their disarmingly popular 1980s night, which has led to the doors being closed because of sheer numbers. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Admission 50 - 150Kč. EP Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, 221 08 55 99, www.vagon.cz. Vagon was a dancing hall during communist times so if your parents are too old to boogie here come yourself and check out the dedication to the artwork, if not exactly the spirit, of the decadent 1960s. An excellent live venue renowned for quality cover bands, local and international acts plus an open mic night on select Mondays. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 01:00. E 74 42 56, www.vertigo-club.cz. Whether by design or by accident, this club does indeed spin the mind… split levels and balconies loiter under low ceilings while some of the weirdest video footage ever accompanies the tracks to create a space that lures your mind and your feet. Excellent DJs and unusual theme nights attract a disparate group of folk. Q Club: Thu - Sat 21:00 - 04:00; café: 08:00 - 21:00 except club nights open to 04:00. Admission free. P třída, tel. 224 94 81 70, www.zlatecasy.cz. A perfectly situated music club just off Lazarská, Zlaté časy is an excellent destination as well as a place to while away the time till your tram home. Steep stairs lead into the single roomed, high-ceiled club, perfect for scoping out the talent at the bar or on the dance floor. Music varies, but later, everyone bops to Czech pop. Not bad prices either, 40Kč for a Pilsner Urquell. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Vagon D-4, Praha 1, Národní 25, MNárodní třída, tel. Duplex I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek, tel. 224 23 23 19, www.duplexduplex.cz. Toast each other with drinks at sky-high prices whilst gyrating on top of the city. A massive designer space fed by a couple of lifts from street level, this is where Mick Jagger decided to spend his birthday, which has probably made the place even more full of itself. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. ABK M1 E-2, Praha 1, Masná 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 87 42 56. Grey and industrial looking, this railroad car of a bar is an ideal place to lounge around. Swamped barmen deftly pour drinks in front of the glow of illuminated spirits on the wall. New owners have shifted the scene some at Prague’s M1, with nightly themes from the increasingly popular Sunday chill out sessions to ladies’ night and DJ Big J’s Smokin’ Fridays. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A Nebe H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 03 43. This slice of heaven produces what its punters want every night and hence conjures up a good vibe, happy drinkers and DJs who do have a clue about creating and keeping the atmosphere. Bar keeps add to the atmosphere which goes on late. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. Vertigo E-4, Praha 1, Havelská 4, MMůstek, tel. 774 Akord I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. 774 10 10 91, www.akord-jazz.com. New familyrun jazz club in the requisite basement, although this tubular cellar has been renovated into a clean cut modern space. The lights dim when the local and international line-up of jazz and blues names take the stage. Cool website for this cool spot. CDs on sale plus art on the walls. Music from 21:00. Admission 200Kč. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00. Blues Sklep D-3, Praha 1, Lilliová 10, MNárodní třída, tel. 774 27 70 60, www.bluessklep.cz. Sklep means cellar in Czech, and this is a true hewn-from-rock underground experience – although it does have that ‘new’ edge to it following complete reconstruction after the floods. A varied roster of blues, jazz plus some deep funk stalwarts of and newcomers to the scene play nightly. Ferdinand waters the thirsty crowd for 25Kč. Admission 100Kč. Concerts begin at 21:00. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. Zlaté časy H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 1, MNárodní tel. 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. The front bar remains the same, but inside, all has changed. The main stage has been moved down a level, meaning that this always great venue has effectively removed the 22:00 live curfew so many clubs here are curtailed by. Three bars and a funky, boxy lounge with cool mural graffiti and screen to watch the band well away from the mosh pit make Rock Café the suave new place for live music. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Admission 50 - 100Kč. EW 224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Probably the best club in Prague, years of kudos keep the place hopping despite some sound issues. Live acts and DJs plus the divinely eclectic Free Mondays. Q Box office open 16:00. Club open for concerts 19:00, for club nights 22:00. EP Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, Out there clubs Abaton Praha 8, Na Košince 8 / Povltavská 2175, MPalmovka, tel. 602 32 44 34, www.prostorabaton.cz. Very cool club a tad out of town but with one of the best programs in the city, be it drum n bass DJs or live music to the tune of Chumbawamba, Natacha Atlas, The Dresden Dolls or Free Monday local heroes such as Dirty Airlines. Beer hall downstairs with video feed from the stage upstairs. Open for gigs only and closing time depends on the band/after party. Tram 10, 24, 25 to stanice Stejskalova QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E Jazz AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 16, MMůstek, tel. 222 21 12 75, info@agharta.cz, www. agharta.cz. This beautiful arched medieval cellar is the perfect place to appreciate some of the very fine bands on the Prague jazz circuit, cut with the odd night of heavy blues. Arrive early to claim a seat at a table. There’s a jazz shop, where they sell CDs including their own compilations of visiting talent. QOpen 18:00 - 24:30. Concerts daily at 21:00. Admission 200Kč. Reservations via email only before 15:00. E Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 Dive into the atmosphere of the french Quarter! Right behind the Old Town Square you will find two spectacular restaurants under one roof offering a one-stop gourmet paradise for lovers of French cuisine. You can sample the specialties of a real Parisian Brasserie on the ground floor or enjoy the cozy interior and Provence cuisine in the main restaurant downstairs. Štupartská 9, Praha 1- Staré Město, tel.: +420 296 826 155, www.kampagroup.com free reservations line +420 800-1-52672 free reservations line +420 800-1-52672 48 NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN MStaroměstská, tel. 731 18 31 80, www.jazzboat. cz. Take a musical journey on the low seas of the Vltava. The Jazz Boat sets sail each evening from Čechův most and for only 590Kč you’re afforded a two and a half hour cruise around Prague to the accompaniment of excellent jazz performed by some of the city’s finest musicians. A bar and restaurant are also at your disposal, bu t their services are not included in the bill. It’s best to arrive early to get good seats. QOpen 20:30 - 23:00. AEGBK NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN Casinos There are lots of places in which you can lose your shirt - just make sure it’s a smart shirt or you won’t even get in in the first place! All of these places will gladly receive your cash in Czech crowns or US dollars and give you free booze with which to drown your sorrows. You’ll need to be over 18, well-dressed and in possession of ID to play. 49 Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva boat, Na Příkopě 10, Praha 1 Open daily 4 p.m. – 3 a.m. Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 34 87, www.redutajazzclub.cz. Founded in 1958, Reduta was the first real venue for Czech rock and roll, playing smuggled Elvis records. Reduta has not changed much since then; don’t come for the brown 1980s interior or the uncomfortable bench seating; Reduta still brings in quality performers and even attracts a president or two. Václav Havel has brought Bill Clinton here twice now, and yes, he did play his sax. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. EP TEL: +420 724 747 401 Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská ulička 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 89 57 48, www.jazzblues. cz. Wander to the pub upstairs, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the cheerful atmosphere and cheap drinks. Go down the stairs and you descend into the more expected territory of clinging onto your cash for dear life, though it does host some good bluesy jazz. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00; club open 20:00 - 02:00. Admission free. U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, MMůstek, tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzlounge.cz. An elevated stage, a fancy Petrov grand piano and a regular schedule of quality, contemporary jazz make U Staré paní a favourite venue for Prague’s serious jazz aficionado, local, expatriate and tourist alike. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAEG Ambassador Casino E-4, Václavské Nám. 5, MMůstek, tel. +420 724 747 401, www.vipclub. cz. Poker, roulette, blackjack, pontoon and slots attract a sophisticated crowd with the casino’s excellent, knowledgeable staff, and appropriate atmosphere. Q Open 24hrs. AK American/Touch Bet Roulettes Black Jack Poker Casino Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác, tel. +420 724 747 403, www.vipclub.cz. The Corinthia Panorama Hotel hosts another winning casino from the VIP group. The usual games and slot machines are on offer, with drinks and refreshments. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. AL See advertisement on p. 46. TEL: +420 724 747 403 Banco Casino F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 27, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 96 73 80, www.bancocasino.cz. One of Prague’s favourite casinos, set in a central location difficult to beat. All your favourite games are available, there are state of the art slot machines, a private salon and a general atmosphere of unadulterated luxury that entices even James Bond: it was used in Casino Royale... Q Open 24 hours. A Bohemia Praha 4, 5. května 65 (Congress Centre), MVyšehrad, tel. 241 41 25 87. Prague’s first casino. With slot machines, poker, Blackjack and the usual suspects both on and off the tables, Bohemia is as good a place as ever to gamble your crowns away. Smart dress and ID required. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. AKL SLOT ROOM Pubs Caffrey’s E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 10, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 82 80 31, www.caffreys. cz. Good service and a great location on Staromětské nám. make this a popular Irish pub for many, including large parties of stag nighters. Old Town prices are justified by their excellent food menu (try the authentic Irish breakfast), first rate Guinness, Bulmer’s cider, Walker’s crisps and more to make you feel right at home. A good venue to watch all the major (GAA too) sporting events. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PABK George & Dragon E-2, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 11, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 61 37. A British pub landed slap bang in the middle of Old Town Square. TV screens, a big screen and footy shirts line the walls so it won’t remind you of the country outside. Good food, including an all day breakfast with the atmosphere you want to see your team play and win, with any luck. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABK Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. The memorabilia may be a bit over the top, but it’s preferable to the obligatory stop signs and imitation Coke/Pepsi prints elsewhere. The Hollow’s worn wooden seats are home to expats and locals alike, who frequent this bar for its burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex as well as the cheap local specials and beer. Bring your laptop for free wi-fi. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. ABGKTW Prague In Your Pocket Casino de Prague Le Hilton J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hotel Hilton), MFlorenc, tel. 224 81 09 88. One of the favoured casinos for Prague expats, the Hilton provides roulette, poker, blackjack, pontoon, Punto Banco, and slots with the worldwide standards of the Hilton chain. QOpen 14:00 - 06:00. A Casino Duplex E-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám. 21, MMůstek, tel. 224 49 04 30, www.casinoduplex.cz. One of the few places for poker, in its various forms, to be played. Live games here from 20:00 - 06:00.Q Open 24hrs. AK TRY YOUR LUCK! Free entry Photo ID required No dress code Tel.: +420 224 221 636 www.czechcasinos.cz Casino Palais Savarin F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 16 36, www.czechcasinos. cz. The home of Prague entertainment for over 10 years, come try your hand at Poker, American Roulette, Black Jack and more. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00. A www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 50 NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN Molly Malone’s E-2, Praha 1, U Obecního dvora 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 81 88 51, www.mollymalones.cz. A quiet, nicely downbeat Irish pub. Odds and ends of bashed about furniture clutter the scrubbed wooden floors making it a perfect oasis for fairly well-heeled slumming. Take your time contemplating the excellent menu over some cider or a Guinness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AKPU O’Che’s D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 14, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 11 78, www.oches.com. Just what you’d expect an Irish Cuban bar to be. Likenesses of everybody’s favourite failed revolutionary stare off into space amid a dartboard, TVs, Guinness ads and football paraphernalia. Yuca con mojo may be hard to find, but good food, excellent barstaff and all round fun is readily available. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. KP Rocky O’Reilly’s I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 32, MMůstek, tel. 222 23 10 60, www.rockyoreillys. cz. Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on draught and an ‘O’ in its name all meet the criteria for a classic Irish watering hole. Other perks include hear ty por tions of international food including a huge Irish breakfast served any time, Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff that can easily draw your attention away from the football. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AKP Sherlock’s Pub D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, MNárodní třída, tel. 226 21 19 39, www.sherlockspub.cz. This split level pub with somewhat authentic feel, paintings all over the walls and small courtyard is the Prague location for the Ostrava original. Part sport bar, part cocktail bar and part pub, Sherlock’s has many stairs, plays some terrible tunes but has a good kitchen which is open till 03:00. Staropramen costs, strangely, more that Stella and drink specials at weekends will make those stairs more difficult… QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. BK NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN The Beer Factory I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 58, MMůstek, tel. 736 63 08 68. Down see-through steps (which could make things hallucinogenic later on…) is this industrial-looking and functional, as the name suggests, beer factory. Well located and easily locatable by the square’s landmark statue, this beer hall’s cavernous space should be packed daily - just look at those opening hours. Taps at your table serve Pilsner Urquell (at 39Kč) while mix drinks, coffee and hearty Czech dishes are served up by the staff. TVs offer music and sport. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. (150 350Kč). PK 51 Casinos, part II 100 (President Hotel), MStaromětská, tel. 234 61 41 13, www.casinopresident.cz. Roulette, black jack, poker, pontoon and slots available at this luxurious new casino. Minimum bets are 100Kč for blackjack, et al. and 25Kč on roulette. Free soft drinks while you gamble. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A Pocket Watch A topical crawl of sorts around Prague: Tons of movies have been filmed on the streets and in the sound stages of Prague. The city of spires is one of the leading filmmaking cities in the world, and even though movie studios have been lured farther east with the promise of cheaper facilities, Prague’s film magic continues to amaze. Prague could be considered a star stand-in. Thanks to its diverse architecture (think Baroque, Art Nouveau and Gothic) and its preserved cobblestones streets, Prague has starred as Vienna, London, Paris and Rome – just to name a few. Blockbusters like Mission: Impossible, The Bourne Identity and Casino Royale are just a few of the films shot here. Interested in seeing where the action happened? Check out these not so national landmarks: 1) Hotel Evropa on Václavské náměstí: Tom Cruise escapes here after his team is killed in Mission: Impossible 2) Strahov Monastery in the Hradčany district near Prague Castle: In Casino Royale, it played The House of the Lords. In The Omen, it starred as the Vatican and in The League of Extraordinary Gentleman, it played a British museum. 3) Kampa Island: In the square Na Kampě, a car blows up outside the “US Embassy” in Mission: Impossible. The nearby park would be “Zurich” where Matt Damon tries to sleep in The Bourne Identity. 4) National Museum on Václavské náměstí: Another well-rounded actor. It plays an opera house in The Omen, the US Embassy for a reception in Mission: Impossible and the lobby of a Venice hotel in Casino Royale. 5) Hlavní nádraží (main train station) appears as itself, sort of, in the Illusionist (as a Vienna train station) and in Casino Royale as the train station in Trieste. 6) Politických Věznů Street: In The Bourne Identity, many of the Zurich street scenes were filmed here and in the area. The building at number 20 was the Swiss bank where Matt Damon finds his first clues. The building at number 9 was the police headquarters in The Illusionist. Casino President E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových Centur y Casino Millennium I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 03 34 01, www.cnty.com. Catering to the likes of the Marriott Hotel, the Century Casino in the Millennium Plaza boasts excellent croupiers who will help out beginners and take anyone’s money. The usual roulette, poker and blackjack are available. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. AL Spearmint Casino D-1, Praha 1, U Plovárny 8, tel. 257 535 755, www.spearmintcasino.cz. Come to the only English-style casino in Prague. Spearmint has the highest limits available in the city. Try your luck at roulette, pontoon, blackjack and poker or play in the private gaming room. If mechanics are more your thing, head for the new slot machines upstairs. Free transport to the casino is also available. Admission is free. QOpen 16:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 17:00 - 05:00. A The Lions Bar I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 19, MMuzeum, tel. 222 21 09 56, www.thelionsbar.cz. New management has brought new changes. An upstairs lounge has been opened where you can enjoy your favourite sport on 5 plasma screens. Downstairs remains a classic sportbar with two big screens and 8 plasma screens. The pub will show all rugby, football matches and NFL games. A new menu is being introduced offering good old British food and a free Season Ticket allows 50% discount on Staropramen and 20% on everything else including food. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. (200 - 350Kč). A The Pack I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 21, MMuzeum, tel. 222 21 02 80, www.thepack.cz. Tailor made for its fans with scantily clad waitresses, flat screen TVs in every room, Guinness and Strongbow (90/85Kč) on tap, a full English breakfast with Heinz beans, and opening hours to cater for sports from all continents. A higher class of pub food is also available from wings (150Kč) and burgers (250Kč) to the massive double filet mignon (950Kč). Gambrinus 55Kč. Q Open Mon & Fri 09:00 - 02:00; Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 02:00. JAK Sport bars Legends F-2, Praha 1, Týn 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 89 54 04, www.legends.cz. Twenty, count ‘em, twenty TVs plus two plasma screens and a private room for your viewing pleasure in this bastion of expat sport bars. An excellent menu features great burgers and the ever-popular hangover-busting breakfast. Descend into this sleek cellar for a maul to rival that on the screens on any given Saturday, Wednesday, Sunday... Popular with visiting celebs too. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (100 - 400Kč). AEK Tlustá koala F-3, Praha 1, Senovážná 1394/8, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 24 54 01. Th e Fa t Koala b oasts (i f that’s th e word) Foster’s la ger, bu t ever y thin g else is more in terna tional than Aussie. Wi th 11 b eers on tap and more in b ot tles, this place is a dream and prices (Staropramen 31Kč) are not that high considerin g i ts location. Two floors of pub ambience and pri vate rooms keep people lin gerin g lon g af ter th e h ear t y meals have b een su fficien tl y wash ed down. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 04:00. (100 - 800Kč). AKP MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 11 11, www.uzlatehotygra.cz. Havel took Bill Clinton here to demonstrate Czech drinking culture (and let’s face it, if there’s one thing Havel knows, it’s his booze). Get there by opening time to have any chance of getting in. The Pilsner brewery makes special deliveries here - the beer is pumped directly into the large tanks below the bar. A national institution. QOpen 15:00 23:00. K Praga Sport Café E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 21, MMůstek. A paradoxically secluded and central spot which attracts the stag partiers for its location off Wenceslas Sq., for the several plasma screens showing all European satellite channels and for the adult entertainment location upstairs. Even after the whistle has blown, this sport bar is known to continue the party. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. ABW Shamrock Irish Pub F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 56, MMuzeum, tel. 224 03 24 81. The two-floor cellar space is accessible via a deceptively small entrance at street level. Upon entering, any subtlety is wiped out by 4 massive projection screens, numerous smaller TVs around the circular-ish room and hordes of chanting fans. Good food, the famous Irish breakfast and all European channels attract sport fans and staggers alike. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 04:00. (100 - 350Kč). PAK Sportbar Sparta ve Slavii C-4, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábř. 1012/2, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 21 84 93, www. spartabar.cz. The sadly subdued sporting sibling of the once upmarket, literati-filled Slavia Café, which you can find next door. An array of TVs and a big screen show even the most boring of sports, but the chairs are unfilled and if you desperately need somewhere to watch a game, you need to bring your own crowd and atmosphere here. They will stay open for late/early games. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. AP Venue 73 I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 73, MVltavská, tel. 728 13 99 03, www.venue73.cz. In addition to two (real) dart boards, 7 TVs and one big screen, semi-private booths in the VIP room with individual screens, English bacon, sausages (full breakfast from 99Kč), Colman’s mustard and Branston pickle, they will reputedly have live online betting and Sky High Definition. The fabled curries never materialised, but the Sunday roast (195Kč) and other Brit goodies more than satisfy. Gambrinus 25Kč, Pilsner Urquell 30Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 200Kč). K Zlatá hvězda I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 12, MMuzeum, tel. 296 22 22 92, www.sportbar.cz. This dedicated sports bar remains open until the final whistle blows. Appropriately buxom servers deliver 21Kč Gambrinus, pizza and wings etc. around the TV-filled room. A late-opening downstairs bar (with TV) takes over when the sport bar closes. Reservations are necessary for most big games although there is no telling whether or not they they will keep yours. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:30, Sat 12:00 - 04:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUIEB U Zlatého tygra D-3, Praha 1, Husova 17, Pocket Lint Facts to amaze your friends & family: • Astronomer Tycho Brahe is buried in Tyn Church on Old Town Square • Charles University is the oldest university in Central Europe. It was established in 1348. • The largest inlaid window in the world can be found in the southern nave of St. Vitus Cathedral. The window, constructed between 1937-1939, has an area of 160 metres. Vysmátý zajíc E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 13, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 21 69 99, www.vysmatyzajic.cz. Th e Happy Rabbi t’s vast warren of rooms constitute the home of a Czech pub, music club, restaurant, garden and internet café. Work up a hunger in the cellar club and enjoy their menu until 05:00. A decent deal for its Old Town location. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAUBK Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 52 FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE Prague is comprised of lively neighbourhoods which can be as fun and diverting to dine and party in as the Old Town, and cheaper. The area-based listings enable a night of dining and drinking with venues that are within walking distance. Malá Strana and the castle area are more upmarket than the Old Town; east of the Old Town lie two excellent residential districts; Vinohrady, with plenty of trendy venues and grungy Žižkov, which is for the adventurous. North of the Old Town, Letná & Holešovice have some gems. Finally Smíchov, south of Malá Strana, is an upcoming area for restaurants, bars and clubs. FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE dab in the middle of Malostranské náměstí; impossible for the masses to miss. The ground floor is spacious, but there’s more comfy seating downstairs. QOpen 7:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 21:00. 75-195kč. lingering for cocktails well after dessert. Although a French restaurant, Bastille does produce pasta, Czech and CzechMex dishes too. Lamb, pork, fish, mussels, frog’s legs all served with Gallic flair. Budvar .4l for 40Kč. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (90 - 380Kč). A NEW 53 Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet W Wi-Fi A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest metro station 6 Animal friendly U Zavěšenýho kafe Praha 1, Úvoz 6, MMalostranská, tel. 605 29 45 95. The name refers to a time when richer clients paid for two coffees, leaving one for the next impoverished artist to arrive. Sit and relax, buy a hanging coffee if you’re feeling philanthropic, otherwise while away the time in a space that exists outside the tourist zone around it. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. BK Café de Paris Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 4, MMalostran- Malá Strana & The Castle Gastronomically, Malá Strana (A/B-2/3) and the area around the castle is a sprucer version of Old Town, with many upmarket and tourist restaurants, plus great bars and jazz clubs, but not many clubs. To get there, walk across Charles Bridge, take the metro to Malostranská or hop on trams N°18, 22 or 23. Crawl onto night tram N°57 to get back to the Old Town. Cafés 31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored grand café dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning neoRenaissance ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order food from the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from the more elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the pastries and cakes that are made on the premises though. Great for a lazy breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP 53 06 28, www.cukrkavalimonada.cz. A small café which adopts an evening menu at 18:00 and produces delicious meals such as chicken breast with prosciutto and mozzarella on balsamic vinegar and fresh baby spinach to go with some superb (but spendy) new world wines. Daytime offerings are just as tasty from the breakfast menu to pancakes, sandwiches and homemade pasta. As relaxed as the beautifully tranquil square it is located on. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 350Kč). PG Czech Baráčnická r ychta A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 23, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 24 61, www.baracnickarychta.cz. This dark and cosy pub, aglow from the large copper lighting fixtures, may be the perfect place to experience the beauty of Czech winters, although in the warmer months it may translate as a little stuffy. Either way the food is as earthy and homemade as it comes in Prague. A must for those wanting a downbeat, ‘real’ Czech eating experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (50 - 150Kč). AE Lví dvůr A-1, Praha 1, U Prašného mostu 6, MHradčanská, tel. 224 37 23 61, www.lvidvur.cz. Loitering in a small house at the northern entrance to the castle, the Lion’s Court offers Czech cooking fit for royalty at princely prices. The European wine selection is excellent and their kitchen does amazing things to pork that we hadn’t dreamed possible. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč). ABP Sovovy Mlýny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 59 00, www.sovovymlyny. com. The restaurant in the white mill building on Kampa Island is especially recommended for its riverside terrace; its low and so close to the Vltava lock canal that you can almost clink glasses with the partying tourists on the boats chugging to and from the Vltava locks. The menu includes many decent fish dishes but dont let that distract you from the views of the weir and Charles Bridge. Bring something warm and mosquito repellent.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAGB Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. 257 ská, tel. 603 16 07 18, www.cafedeparis.cz. For a fresh, authentic dining experience, you shouldn’t go wrong at Café de Paris. A small, rotating menu of seasonal dishes means you’ll always get the freshest of the fresh. The one constant is their special Entrecote Café de Paris, prepared according to a secret recipe. Yummy desserts, wine and cocktails, plus two gardens - Café de Paris is a nice respite no matter the time of day. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 165-269kč. JGB American 40, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 50 50, www.kampagroup.com. Bazaar has morphed into the Kampa Group’s sublime version of an American steakhouse. Premium-tequilaladen cowgirls on the bar, quality and affordable cuts of steak, seafood and even lobster (1,250Kč), complementary wine list, myriad salad and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and atmosphere. A fabulous cellar space, classy design, exellent cuisine and staff round out another Kampa success. The primo cafe serves Illy coffee, Cream & Dream gelato and more.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 - 750Kč) PAIEBW MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz. Renowned for the tiny though classy jazz joint downstairs, the street level bar has entertaining barmen, free-flowing beer and cocktails, and good food. Czech-Mex standards jostle for space with salads, sandwiches and hot pitas, although the menu has no breakfast dishes, except (Bohemia) bagels. Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00 at weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). EP Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel. 257 Pálffy Palác B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 14, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz. The ambience of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century dining room is shabbily aristocratic, and the clientele seem to feel the need to keep up appearances. It is, on the other hand, the perfect place to ask for the hand of your sweetheart. A favourite weekend brunch treat, the excellent smoked salmon and spinach pancakes are only surpassed by the stunning views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400 - 900Kč). ABGPT ská, tel. 257 53 00 00, www.umaliru.cz. This is one of those restaurants that many acknowledge is a must-do in Prague as it has the reputation of the best French cuisine in the city. The pedigree is long, the restaurant was given three stars by an otherwise difficult to please King Rudolf II - in 1544, if you please. Go for the sumptuous décor and the ambience of wealth. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (1,200 - 2,000Kč). AGPT U Malířů B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 11, MMalostran- U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23, Kafíčko C-2, Praha 1, Míšeňská 10, MMalostranská, tel. 724 15 17 95. A haven for the healthy, Kafíčko serves fabulous coffee and teas in a quiet smoke-free coffeehouse just off mainstream tourism madness. Rest your soul for a bit while you browse a newspaper, or try one of the home-made cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. G www.lemoncafe.cz. Up a steep slope from the tram line is the light, airy and green Lemon Café with fresh bread, delicate salads, sweet and savoury crepes, and divine cakes. The casual bar area up front leads along a corridor lined with tables to a rear room with large red sofas, an atrium and dining tables. Magazines in English and Czech, including the New Yorker entice but the cuisine is the real draw, especially the homemade cakes. Tram 15, 22, 25 to Marjánka. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 250Kč). PTAKW Hungarian MMalostranská, tel. 257 22 03 70, www.hungarianrestaurant.cz. Imagine stone walls in a darkly lit cellar, Baroque art on the walls, and classical music gently playing in the background... feeling mushy yet? This restaurant offers a rustic and roguish atmosphere with a menu inspired by Hungarian chefs who know how to serve up a feast. Russian caviar, venison, roasted pork, Hungarian wines, roasted goose and beef Budapest style, intoxicate the senses. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (190 - 420Kč). PAEB Hungarian Grotto B-2, Praha 1, Tomášská 12, Lemon Café Praha 6, Šlikova 27, tel. 233 35 06 54, Balkan 257 53 01 63, www.gitanes.cz. A vast and fairly expensive selection of local and international wines precede a vastly unusual menu for a Prague restaurant. Octopus and mussels vie for space with veal and lamb, served in a marked Balkan slant, see sač, kajmak and sarma sauerkraut. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (130 - 400Kč). AG Gitanes A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel. U Maltézských rytířů B-2, Praha 1, Prokopská 10, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 00 75, www.umaltezskychrytiru.com. This historical restaurant called ‘At the Maltese Cross’ is housed in a 14th century building called ‘at the black horse’ where the entrance does not prepare you for the maze of tiny rooms below. The international menu is small but inspired with excellent Chateaubriand for two and traditional Czech dishes. Fish and meat is predominantly organic (bio) and the ambience is understated and secluded. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). AI Vikárka A-1, Praha 1, Vikářská 39, tel. 233 31 19 62, www.vikarka.cz. Right next to St. Vitus Cathedral in the castle complex (down the alley, left of the main entrance), the ‘vicariate’ is well placed to receive hungry travellers. This collection of delicately restored but wildly different rooms is a great place to sample Bohemian and international cuisine; try the grilled duck with honey and ginger, or the roast venison. The adjoining 16th century emperor Rudolph’s foundry rooms serve similar food. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. B Indian Malý Buddha Praha 1, Úvoz 44, MHradčanská, tel. 220 51 38 94. Crammed with enlightenment-seeking students from the nearby American College, Little Buddha opens its doors to those who like calm, joss sticks and cleanliness of liver and lungs. A range of utilitarian dishes from the east are presented at charitable prices. The desserts were our favourite part, apart, that is, from the sprint down to the pub afterwards for a pint and a cigarette. QOpen 13:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon. (150 - 300Kč). G 74/775 32 57 66, www.tandoor.cz. This restaurant is known for being one of the more authentic Indian restaurants in Prague with unbelievably-priced jalfrezi, korai, vindaloo and the eponymous Tandoor variations. Dishes are tasty and spicy but the place has just five tables and a small garden so don’t try and bring the team… Tram Nºs 15, 22, 25 to U Kaštanu. Delivery is available but slow. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00 & Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180Kč). GS Breakfast Bohemia Bagel B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 19, MMalostranská, tel. 257 21 81 92, www.bohemiabagel.cz. It’s Bohemia Bagel sporting a slightly reduced regular menu but extra breakfast and grill specials, a tapas bar, Lamborgini coffee and three internet stations. Full of Americans satisfying their cravings for authentic bagels. The wake and bake offer for the breakfast bagel & unlimited coffee/coke is available till 11:00. Other bagels are available all day. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. G Prague In Your Pocket Seventh Heaven Praha 5, Zborovská 68, tel. 257 31 81 10. Sprawling café in a space not unlike your mad uncle’s apartment with armchairs you might never get out of in various rooms. A piano and standard lamps stand guard although this might not be the best place for reading as lights are dim. Quiet anarchy seems to reign with kids running around, computers whirring and deals being wheeled. Snacks and cakes join the usual full bar, coffee and tea. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. (30 - 150Kč). TW Starbucks Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 28, MMalostranské. Perhaps the last place on the planet without one, Prague is now the happy home to a Starbucks. Wipe the tear from your eye and order your grande skinny latte, no whip. Smack Tandoor Praha 6, Konecchlumského 7, tel. 233 35 92 French Bastille B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 26/426, tel. 257 31 28 30, www.labastille.cz. A laid back, not too shabby restaurant with excellent food and atmosphere enough to keep diners October - November 2008 54 FOOD & DRINK IN MALÁ STRANA & THE CASTLE International MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 03 00. No Czech cows at Akat, all their excellent beef comes from Argentina and is served with a smile in 200g or 400g slabs in cuts including fillet mignon, churrasco, sirloin, entrecote and T-Bone, with the usual sauce options to choose from. Chicken, pork and lamb round out their menu which is well complemented by the wine list. The winter garden setting is unusual and nicely bright for chilly days. QOpen 11.00 - 23.00. (200 1000Kč). AB ská, tel. 257 53 55 34, www.kampagroup.com. Part of the Kampa Group of restaurants, this is a winner in every respect. A huge menu of Czech and international favourites tantalises, with great Neapolitan pizza’s thrown in for good measure. Sunday brunch with professionals on hand to look after your kids while you relax. We love it and you will too. Check out the upstairs lounge complete with pool table and big screen. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (70 - 400Kč). ABEGPT FOOD & DRINK IN MALÁ STRANA & THE CASTLE space has much potential though: the labyrinthine cellar is touted as a music bar but remains dark. Mosaics, terracotta walls, murals and a couple of sombreros help, as does 24Kč Gambrinus and friendly staff. ‘If you come, they will build it’ is the phrase that comes to mind… QOpen 10.00 - 02.00. (90 - 250Kč). 55 Lebanese U Cedru Praha 6, Národní obrany 27, MDejvická, tel. 233 34 29 74. A long-timer with a popularity that is thoroughly justified. Well-presented, good value main dishes are available, while adventurous types can put themselves in the hands of the waiting staff who will make a selection of delicacies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 450Kč). APU Akát Steak House B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 19, Seafood Kampa Fish C-2, Praha 1, U lužického semináře 42, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 99, www.kampafish. cz. The Kolkovna Group expand their gourmet industry with Kampa Fish, which has nothing to do with another restaurant group... Kampa Fish is so-called because it is a fish restaurant in Kampa. The fabulous terrace enhances the dining experience which itself is enhanced by the wine list. A lunch menu makes it approachable for the hoi polloi. QOpen 11:00 24:00. (150 - 800Kč). PTAB Zanzibar B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 6, MMalostranská, tel. 602 78 00 76, www.monin.cz. The cocktails here are good – although we got a margarita in a martini glass – but make sure to sit at the bar. Wait staff are appalling with service running the gamut from brusque to nonexistent. The Rolling Stones improved the atmosphere but décor appears of the Mexican restaurant ilk. Cocktails are 85-150Kč, and Pilsner 50Kč. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. P Medieval www.ucisaru.cz. Top-class medieval dining in the centre of cobbled, old world Prague. A beautiful Gothic wine cellar is at your disposal to really make you feel that your rightful place is down the road at the castle. The chefs have catered various state dinners, and the prices tend to illustrate this. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 950Kč). ABEILP Clubs Popocafepetl Music Club Praha 1, Újezd 19, www. popocafepetl.cz. The space is small but well utilised and already drawing the crowds. Located by trendy Downtown Café, this block is a new hotspot. Their bookings are an international bunch from homegrown talent to bands/members from SCO/FRA/SK/HU. Sundays have proved a good night for Gitans (CZ) and their gypsy nights. Gigs begin at 20.30. Admission up to 150Kč. QOpen 16.00 - 02.00. E Újezd A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 18, MNárodní třída, tel. 257 31 65 37. Yes, the ambience is young, shabby and hedonistic, but Újezd’s three floors and especially the bizarre wrought iron sculptures are a tonic to eyes and ears. Friendly staff and hot (most of them smoking) people throng here any night for live music and/or DJs. The cellar is punk, and upstairs is a more eclectic chill zone. Don’t bring your posh frock, do bring some energy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. E U Císařů Praha 1, Loretánská 5, tel. 220 51 84 84, Hergetova Cihelna C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, MMalostran- U Sedmi Švábů A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 14, Kampa Park C-2, Praha 1, Na Kampě 8b, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 26 85, www.kampagroup.com. The legendary restaurant with THE who’s who of diners; Hillary Clinton et al. (see the decorative photographic evidence). With a magnificent location on the water just below the Charles Bridge, a meal here doesn’t come cheap, but you’ll forget the price once you’ve tasted the delicious nouvelle cuisine. Reservations recommended. The heated terrace remains open for your viewing pleasure. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (600 - 750Kč). ABLPT MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 14 55, info@svabove.cz, www.svabove.cz. Yet more medieval shenanigans in the requisite cellar space where fire-eating, dueling and even torture takes place as you dine. Traditional recipes employing only authentic 15th and 16th century ingredients means no tomatoes or potatoes. Fun, games and lots of meat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 450Kč). AEGIP Spanish ská, tel. 257 53 33 43, www.elcentro.czrb.cz. This warm and bright Spanish eatery, slightly hidden in an discreet alleyway at Malá Strana, is an amazing choice if you are looking for a fiesta in your mouth. The paella is savoury and fresh, the tortilla espanola is piquant, and the gazpacho is delectable. It’s a spicy change from the routine. Sombreros off to this place. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (120 - 300Kč). ABGU El Centro B-2, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 9, MMalostran- Mexican Azteca B-4, Praha 1, Říční 9, tel. 257 32 73 89, www. azteca.cz. The menu offers the standard Mexican fare with drinks in the same vein: mojitos and margaritas, in fact, the bar does a fair business on its own, apart from the spicy food on offer in the restaurant. Excellent, spicy nachos. Although we’re not too sure about the OTT neo-Alamo décor, Azteca offers good fajitas, enchiladas and quesadilla, along with over 25 types of tequila. Lunch menu 70Kč but there’s nothing Mexican on it. Good wine list, Staropramen for 25Kč and Corona 70Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380Kč). A Thai NEW Jazz U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz. Little Glen’s is, appropriately, a tiny venue downstairs from a scrubbed wooden Irish-type bar, and hosts a wide spectrum of local bands, with a particularly strong roster of jazz and blues acts turning up regularly. You can book one of the 20 or so spots crammed in around the tables. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. Admission Mon, Tue & Thu 120Kč; Wed, Fri & Sat 150Kč; Sun 70Kč. AEP MStaroměstská, tel. 221 08 22 08, www.pfd.cz. The Mill has the wonderful setting by the tower on the east end of Charles Bridge, and as such the terrace is a veritable who’s who of Prague A-listers. Not surprising when the chef is Marek Purkart, the first man to receive the Michelin Bibendum twice. Sample his grilled New Zealand lamb chops with truffle sauce, green broad beans and coucous. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). ABEPU Mlýnec C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 9, Mount Steak D-3, Praha 1, Josefská 1, MMalostran- ská, tel. 257 53 26 52, www.mount-steak.cz. Mountains of steak, mountains of choice, mountains of choice steak, from the regular beef and pork to the more exotic shark and crocodile. This place is for meat lovers, in case you hadn’t noticed, although they do have a very limited vegetarian section. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (150 - 480Kč). PAG Cantina A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel. 257 31 71 73, www.restauracecantina.cz. A warm and atmospheric Mexican, serving Texan-sized portions of decent grub and small swimming pool sized margaritas that slip down far too easily. The fajitas are excellent, although we suggest you may want some extra salsa to add some zing. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (120 - 300Kč). AEB Margarita B-2, Praha 1, Tomášská 14, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 52 20. Fantastically cheap and tasty food that sadly has never heard of Mexico. Margarita tries hard, but until the kitchen has a lesson in basic burritos and classic chimichangas you’ll have to make do with Czech-Mex. The 31 14 11, info@noirestaurant.cz, www.noirestaurant. cz. A serene Thai restaurant, and thank goodness for that. Quality Thai food is often hard to find here, but NOI brings authentic Thai chefs to prepare its tom yam koong, khao pad koong and khao pad kai. Lovely staff and a Zen interior complete the experience. QOpen 9am - midnight. 150290kč. PAGBXS NOI A4, Praha 1, Újezd 19, MMalostranská, tel. 257 Bars Blue Light Bar B-2, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MMalostranská, tel. 224 93 22 49, www.bluelightbar.cz. This tiny bar is always busy, and even if you get a table, this doesn’t mean you’ll keep it to yourself. An older crowd jostles, jokes and jives late into the night in this supposed jazz club. It seldom has live music, but it does play chill tunes, from Barry White to Prince to jazz standards. Strangely, this is a beer drinking country after all, they only serve small beers and at 30Kč, they ain’t cheap although well mixed cocktails provide a smooth alternative. It’s a cool hot spot with very interesting interior design. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. Pubs J.J.Murphy’s A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 4, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 55 75, www.jjmurphys.cz. Don’t worry, they also have Guinness. If you pine for the days when you could enjoy a pint, a good meal and your favourite sporting event without screaming Englishmen in dresses working on their 20th beer, then belly up to this Irish bar. Watch live sport from one of the sofas in the attic lounge or have a proper breakfast with pudding or a real American burger on the ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AK MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 00 32, www.malostranskapivnice.cz. A Pilsner Urquell restaurant serving the flagship 12° brew for just 30Kč, with Kozel on tap and a large, sunny and shady courtyard complete with weeping willow makes this a super stop for liquid and solid sustenance on the tourist trail. Inside, TVs draw crowds for sporting events, while the presence of locals and the friendly multi-lingual staff keep standards high. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (120 - 600Kč). B Nostitz B-3, Praha 1, Nosticova 2, MMalostranská, tel. 257 00 76 81, www.nostitz.cz. A lovely late baroque summer palace built by the Jesuits in the 17th century is now a lovely restaurant with a gorgeous terrace along the Čertovka canal that creates Kampa Island. The usual chicken, steak, pork and Czech classics menu has some more international slants, such as shaslík. Private parties and weddings are catered for inside and/or outside where a grill adds to the garden party feel. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300Kč). ABL Malostranská pivnice C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 3, Mad Bar Plaská 5, MMalostranská, tel. 775 12 22 MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 33 22, www.zlatastudna. cz. U Zlaté studně is still making waves in Prague’s restaurant scene after a successful opening. Sitting high above the city thanks to its roof-top elevation, it still manages to snuggle beneath the castle, and the classic architectural lines set the scene for quality cuisine and vintage wines. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (400 - 690Kč). PTAB U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 4, 56/257 21 98 55, madbar@madbar.cz, www.madbar.cz. Fun, clean joint that doesn’t really life up to its “mad” moniker. All the more reason to go - they have a small, but varied menu and the prices are reasonable for the area. Plus a happy hour from 16:00-19:00 means 25% of food and drink. Go mad. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 21:00. St. Nicholas Café A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 10, MMalostranská. Purportedly a wine bar, St. Nick’s has been attracting drinkers of all vogues for years and his allure hasn’t waned. Dedicated drinkers keep the vibe going late and jazzy live music adds to the cellar ambience. Snacks available. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. U Černého vola Praha 1, Loretánské nám. 1, MMalostranská, tel. 220 51 34 81. It’s almost unbelievable to find a genuine, top-quality, great priced Czech pub just up the hill from the castle. Yet here it is. A tiled hall full of wooden benches, sextagenerians and the best Kozel on the planet. Walk up Nerudova (A-2), continue up Úvoz and make a right. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. October - November 2008 Prague In Your Pocket 56 FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE Vinohrady & Žižkov Vinohrady (J/K-5/6) has everything from cheap ethnic restaurants, trendy bars and a fabulous beer garden to one of Europe’s top clubs. Neighbouring Žižkov (K-4/5) is a working-class district that’s proud to have the highest number of places serving alcohol in the country. Vinohrady is best explored from the Jiřího z Poděbrad (JzP), Náměstí Míru or I. P. Pavlova metro stations; night trams N°51, 57 and 59 roll to and from the Old Town. Žižkov is a short steep walk past the TV Tower from JzP metro, or a short ride on trams N°5, 9 or 26. Stagger home on night trams N°55 or 58. barrels - pubs must consume a certain amount of beer to be given this honour. It is also famous for excellent and cheap home cooked traditional food and that superb habit of singing rock n roll and country and western songs in Czech. Plus they have an adjacent non-stop herna with saloon doors. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 200Kč). EB FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE Czech Bílá vrána Praha 3, Jagellonská 10, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 737 07 00 05, www.bilavrana.com. Czech pubs are moving from their working class roots and employing inventive chefs to elevate the seemingly similar menus they host. The White Raven is no exception with even lunch specials inviting compliments. Excellent service and quality join some English elements (yet to be tried Sunday roast and Beamish in cans). QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (90 300Kč). BSW 57 Chinese Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vršovická 1, tel. 271 74 66 51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should be; they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N°6 from from I.P Pavlova to the Nádrazí Vršovice stop. Reservations recom. mended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova 1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300Kč). AGP Cafés 72 17 31, www.cafepavlac.cz. Healthy eating comes to Žižkov? Café Pavlač, named for the courtyard gallery out the back, which staff and artist are happy for you to explore, serves up good breakfast, snacks and meals, including pasta and salmon steak. Tasty eats, Czech and English reading matter, tunes and friendly staff ensure it remains quietly busy all day. Nights can happen too, with a full bar and Gambrinus at 22Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180Kč). B Café Pavlač K-4, Praha 3, Víta nejedlého 23, tel. 222 American Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 59, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 72 78 51, www.ambi.cz. One of the Ambiente chain, and as eternally popular as the others, this place serves up fresh salad, great stuffed peppers, ribs and of course chicken wings. This is billed as a ‘lifestyle’ restaurant and serves delicious dishes with their distinctive brand of style. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). A Kavárna Pavilon J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 50, Chudoba K-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 67, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 25 06 24, www.restauracechudoba. cz. A restaurant with smooth vibes, good food and drinking. With various levels and alcoved tables in two separate rooms, there is a feeling of privacy and calmness, added to by the fish tanks and fireplace. The menu is large and is in English too, with great dishes available, such as pregnant marge, kiss me darling and sautéed stinker. The fondue is excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 230Kč). IB Koliba U Pastýřky J-7, Praha 4, Bělehradská 15, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 222 56 43 35, www.pastyrka.cz. Chow down on superbly grilled meat sizzling all around you to really get those taste buds salivating. The Shepherdess’s Cottage caters to Czechs and tour groups (private salons seat up to 80 people) with trestle type dining to the tune of traditional dulcimer Gypsy music. The wooden cottage was built as a representative Czechoslovak restaurant for the 1967 World Exhibition in Montreal and shipped over here to continue the Czech dining pleasure. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (90 - 300Kč). EB Indian Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavní nádraží, tel. 222 51 16 60. From the people who run several oriental oriented late night markets comes this small, functional but very tasty Indian place to fill the gap in the market. Curries of every hue and origin (tandoori, biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza, Madras, jalfrezi and vindaloo of course) come in vegetarian, chicken, lamb and prawn variations with basmati rice and a wide smile. Good not brilliant, but oh, what a price. Wine for just 150Kč too. Oh, and they serve pizza too …? QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170Kč). N Masala J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 13, MMuzeum, tel. 722 90 76 66, www.masala.cz. Authentic (no beef) and not (dried fruit in the samosas) at the same time, but Masala has an owner who understands customer service and therefore whatever quibbles you have with it today, tomorrow they may be gone. The spice quotient is up to you and the vindaloo was delicious without being nuclear. With homemade ingredients and divine desserts; Masala is looking like one of the best Indian options in town. Reservations recommended - it is very small. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (100 - 250Kč). AS Taj Mahal I-5, Praha 2, Škrétova 10, MMuzeum, tel. 224 22 55 66, www.tajmahal.cz. It’s pricey, but the Indian décor, the pleasant service and the separate halls for smokers and the nicotine-free are all as worthy of the price as the authentic dishes they serve. At Taj Mahal, if it says spicy, then by Vishnu, it is spicy, and the same goes for the milder curries. An excellent place, although they don’t have draught beers, but they do have three Indian beers. If your curry was a tad hot, cool down with a lassi. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:30. (200 - 500Kč). AEGPTU Breakfast Banditos I-6, Praha 2, Melounová 2, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 224 94 10 96. Cool bar and eaterie with friendly folk both behind and in front of the bar. Mexican standards, sandwiches, burgers and an all day breakfast. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300Kč). MMuzeum, tel. 222 09 72 01, www.ambi.cz. The Ambiente group are trying to make a go of the café space in Vinohrady’s beautiful though hardly successful old market space. Cafés and shops have come and gone, but Ambiente’s excellent standards could be the winning combination. A wide range of breakfast (e.g. soft boiled eggs in a cup), pastries and small meals to accompany Wi-Fi and newspapers. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. W Brewery restaurants U Vodárny K-5, Praha 3, Korunní 75, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 52 25 40, www.restaurace-uvodarny. cz. At the Water Tower is famous for another liquid: fresh Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell and Kozel from tanks rather than Maluj Creative Café Praha 3, Korunní 105, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 774 62 58 51, www.studio-maluj.cz. Do it yourself chic at this new café that serves up unglazed pottery (plates, bowls, ashtrays, objects) in addition to the usual café food and beverage items. Roll up your sleeves and get creative with their paints, then they’ll glaze your work of art for you to take home. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. P Passion Chocolat J-5, Italská 5, MNáměstí Míru, tel. 222 524 333, www.musso-praha.com. Oh la la! A decadent sweet shop in Prague. Passion Chocolat is run by a French husband and wife team; he’s the pastry chef. They have a lovely window display to woo you in, so don’t plan on just walking by for a look. The raspberry and cream tart is heavenly as is anything with chocolate because they only use Valrhona chocolate. Also on offer are quiches, a small selection of sandwiches and croissants, of course. But the desserts and pastries are the reason for the walk to Vinohrady. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30. Closed Sun. 80-150kč. Rybanaruby K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 87, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 731 57 07 01, www.rybanaruby.cz. Part café, part live music venue, part shop it goes into the café section because of its opening hours. Underground music in a very literal sense – down the stairs you’ll find legalize cannabis proponents selling world music CDs, djembes, didgeridoos, etc. and hosting similar veined live acts (admission 51 111Kč). Very cool space. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel. 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon, Bernard beer, some funky original art and mosaics, plus coffee, tea and cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to the Krymská stop. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at C-2, U lužického semináře 10. E U Neklana H-7, Praha 2, Neklanova 30, MVyšehrad, tel. 224 91 60 51. This neighbourhood restaurant/bar (it has a juke box, pool table and big screen) has numerous long-time fans, and once you go, you’ll be one too. Tucked away in an uber-cool Cubist area, architecture fans receive a double whammy. Menus in English and German do not detract from the service or add to the prices of excellent Czech and international staples accompanied by Budvar beer. Recommended. Tram N° 7 to Albertov. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200Kč). French tel. 224 23 95 70, www.bilakrava.cz. The wooden beams supporting old milk cans and dried vegetation and the white and red checked table cloths lend an old-fashioned country flavour to this impressive restaurant. Although such classic French appetisers as frogs’ legs and escargot are served, the restaurant’s claim to fame, as one might surmise from the illuminated bull’s head hanging outside, is Charolais beef. Fantastic atmosphere, great service and even better food make reservations essential most evenings. Print out a 10%discount card from the website. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (125 - 600Kč). AP International alexanders.cz. This new Vinohrady restaurant is cooking up a variety of tasty foods. Fresh ingredients, lovingly prepared and uniquely combined, make Alexander’s an interesting place to visit. Chicken with a honey and lemon sauce, or cod with teriyaki are just two examples of the chef’s playfulness. No matter what though - order a soup. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 260-430Kč. A U Bílé krávy I-5, Praha 2, Rubešova 10, MI. P. Pavlova, Alexander’s U Kanálky 14, tel. 222 21 05 82, www. Greek Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.cz. Rightfully the most famous Greek restaurant in Prague. Excellent Grecian starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and friendly, hard working staff. Superb. And the garden here is one of the best kept secrets in Prague and has a great playground to keep the kids happy. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 23:00. (200 - 500Kč). TAB Bonante J-5, Praha 2, Anglická 15, MMuzeum, tel. 224 22 16 65, www.bonante.cz. Bonante’s imaginative menu and lip-smackingly tasty range of wines from around the world are good reasons to visit this cellar space. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (200 - 400Kč). PAIE Kuře v hodinkách K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 26, tel. 222 73 42 12, www.kurevhodinkach.cz. Industrial chic in this hip hospoda with an intriguing fusion-inspired kitchen: a wide range of salads, pasta, specialties ranging from chicken, duck and salmon to Texas steak, with onion rings and tzatziki rounding out the side dishes. Vegetarians are well catered for too. Take tram N°5, 9, 26 to Husinecká. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. (110 - 300Kč). AE Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 58 FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV Lavička K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 77, tel. 222 22 13 49, www.restaurace-lavicka.cz. A fairly standard Žižkov restaurant serving the usual Czech specials of rabbit, pork, duck, etc. with some dishes leaning to the international side; fajitas, pasta and salmon steak. Steamed and grill vegetable sides are an unusual find but on the whole, the kitchen appears basic and salty, but at these prices, who can really complain. Friendly staff, English menus, a small terrace adjacent to a garden which presently is not being used except by circling kestrels and Gambrinus make it worth the trip. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (75 - 430Kč). AB Louis Armstrong J-6, Praha 2, Čermákova 1231/4, MNám. Míru, tel. 224 25 16 71, www.louisarmstrong. cz. Open your ears and let the tranquil jazzy sounds coming from yours truly set the mood. Murals, trumpets and bizarre bric-a-brac entertain the eye. The bar is fully stocked and the food is prepared with flair, presented beautifully and inspire happy taste buds with each bite. His tunes serenade and if that gets a tad boring, there is a piano player downstairs. Kitchen closes at 24:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. Also at J-5 Praha 2, Italská 786/30, tel. 222 25 36 70. (100 - 250Kč). AEGP FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV perfect calamari, steak (not cooked to specification but so very tender), pork tenderloin and salmon, all prime cuts. Vegetable sides are a welcome sight and the bread is warm and served with garlic oil. Czech dishes and pasta make slightly cheaper choices and there is a gourmet menu available. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating and service. Delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (200 - 450Kč). PAG condition, and the herna is cosier than most. Staropramen is 25Kč and the Gambrinus is bottled only. Good home-made Slivovice. Q Open 24hrs. Also at I-5, I.P Pavlova kiosk. (85 . - 150Kč). ABS 59 Italian tel. 222 71 32 22, www.aromi.cz. ‘Simplicity, tradition, passion’ is the Anatevka-like motto of this upmarket Vinohrady’s Italian, but there’s no fiddling on the roof here. At Aromi there’s a compact choice of excellent pasta, meat and fish dishes, complemented by an equally good wine list. As a result, the spacious L-shaped space holds happy locals and expats enjoying the moment. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (95 - 395Kč). PAG Aromi K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 78, MJiřího z Poděbrad, Russian Ruský Salón K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 79, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 224 22 47 20, www.ruskysalon.cz. For all things Russian, head down to Mánesova, which is quickly becoming the street with a bit of everything. Ruský Salón’s cellar café space is clean-lined and classy, with raised armchair seating around the more usual wooden chairs. Russian staples such as bread and herring (“drink some vodka” they advise), blinis (pancakes) pelmeni (like pirogi), Sobraine cigarettes and of course caviar. Delicious light meals, breakfast, salads plus a deli and CD, DVD, video rentals. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (55 - 160Kč). PS Mexican Amigos J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 16, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 25 05 94, www.amigos.cz. The menu is enormous, amusing, and with some topless shots to keep you turning the pages. The spice in the air and eyes bodes well for chilli-ed authenticity. Chimichanga is as tasty as it’s fun to say, steaks are large and tender, vegetarian options abound, cocktails are cheap and delivery is available. What more do you want? QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (50 - 160Kč). ES La Rustica K-6, Praha 10, Donská 11, MNám. Míru, tel. 271 74 04 74. Homespun charm in this homely Italian with homemade pasta. Garlic is a well-used ingredient, so dates should taste each other’s dishes to spread the wealth, and when you see plates piled high, you want to try everything the waiter walks by with anyway. Large floor to ceiling windows allow air and light to accompany your excellently priced and expertly presented salads, pasta, steaks and even crocodile (549Kč). Simple but tasty and cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 500Kč). AS Sonora Praha 3, Radhoštská 5, MJiřího z Poděbrad, Thai 261 19 11 06, www.corinthia.cz. Corinthia Towers Hotel’s award-winning and Michelin-starred restaurant offers a wide and authentic range of Eastern and Oriental cuisine to add to your expense account. Not as cheap as a rickshaw ride, but perhaps more memorable. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (250 - 500Kč). APU Mozaika K-5, Praha 3, Nitranská 13, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 224 25 30 11. At Mozaika every dish is so delicious that it’s difficult to make a choice. The seafood bouillabaisse is a hearty starter, tandoori chicken is piquant and tasty, while pasta dishes are rich and flavourful. The hamburger is touted as the best in Prague. Judge for yourself, but reserve a table first. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). B Poděbrad, tel. 224 25 71 61, www.obycejnysvet.cz. A more mature international flavour permeates this hospoda, which you actually enter on Chorvatské street. With various seating arrangements from high tables around the bar to secluded booths in the lower dining area, this so-called Ordinary World provides a more than ordinary experience. The ribs are always a good bet, and while the con carne doesn’t earn the chilli moniker, the dish is flavourful and the sirloin is tender. New Zealand lamb also features. Hoegaarden for 36Kč and Staro for 25Kč. The soundtrack could do with some revamping. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (90 - 286Kč). AB Magická zahrada Praha 4, Nuselská 114, tel. 261 21 42 52, www.magickazahrada.cz. The Magic Garden is indeed a magical little place, offering a real slice of Little Italy, with our personal highlight being the super selection of (we counted no less than six) steaks. Recommended. Take tram N°11 to the Michelská stop. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 23:00. (200 - 400Kč). ABP Osteria De Clara Praha 10, Mexická 7, tel. 271 72 65 48, daclara@seznam.cz. A not-so-good location on the Vinohrady/Vršovice border is an unfortunate fact of this nice Italian eatery. Small menu of basic hearty meals; stuffed zucchini, rigatoni ragu, pork fillet. All are well-prepared and a relaxed atmosphere makes this an excellent quiet spot. Let’s hope it doesn’t stay too quiet. QOpen 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 130-250Kč. Roca J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 32, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 52 00 60. The best service we’ve ever had in Prague by far was at this small neighbourhood trattoria; an enthusiastic girl who was clearly enjoying her job – a rarity in this town. And then there’s the food, which is exceptionally good for these price levels; no wonder it’s booked full every night. Roca, run by Italians Roberta and Camilla, is one of Vinohrady’s top places to head for a relaxed dinner. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (100 - 800Kč). A tel. 222 71 10 29. Tightly packed tables and immense popularity make Sonora a cosy spot where you will end up sharing your table, although the summer terrace may alleviate this. The downstairs area has a disconcertingly vibrant paint scheme. The menu is huge and daunting; go for burritos, chimichangas, flautas and nachos. The Native American tribal mural is interesting, but not as interesting as the massive selection of tequila. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). NB Rickshaw Praha 4, Kongresová 1, MVyšehrad, tel. Vegetarian Beas J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 90, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 608 03 57 27, www.beas-dhaba.cz. The vegan Krishna type Northern Indian meals served on a metal tray migrates to Vinohrady. With a small garden and the same interior, Beas 2 will no doubt continue the success of the original Old Town Beas - although choices, desserts and servings appear smaller at this location. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (80 - 200Kč). PGB Pakistani Mailsi Praha 3, Lipanská 1, tel. 222 71 77 83, www. pakistani-restaurant-mailsi.eu. Prague’s only sit-down Pakistani restaurant is a leading light for those lusting real cumin in their dinner. The service is light yet deliciously attentive. Although still nowhere near the extravagances of most spiced offers in the city, their prices are starting to creep up a little. Take tram N°9 to the Lipanská stop. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč). Obyčejný svět Praha 3, Korunní 96, MJiřího z Pizza Grosseto J-6, Praha 2, Francouzská 2, MNám. Míru, tel. 224 25 27 78, www.grosseto.cz. Possibly the most popular pizza and meatball spaghetti joint in Prague. You’ll have to hang about at the bar and drink a beer before you can settle down for the robust pizzas and other popularised Italian comfort food such as frutti di mare, carpaccio con parmigiano or spaghetti mafiosi. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. Also at Praha 6, Jugoslávských partyzánů 8 & Praha 4, Vyskočilova 2. (100 - 250Kč). AS Gusto J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 83, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 21 13 16, www.gusto.cz. A long empty primo location on Vinohradska has been brightly filled by this massive pizza place, where the relatively high prices are testament to the rent. Lunch specials don’t inspire, but the pizzas are well topped. Pasta purports to be fresh… A cool kids spot at the back will keep them entertained for hours, and if you’re looking for a place to have a private party, the cellar is the place. Nothing to write home about, but popular nonetheless. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (90 - 380Kč). ST Roma Praha 3, Jagellonská 16, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 41 54. The pizza place that is open 24 hours, delivers to your house and has a pool table. It’s the all hours and not having to leave your house that is the real draw here, although the American pool table (20Kč a game) is in good Primitiv Pravěk I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 60, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 224 94 19 38, www.pravek.cz. The fourth of these prehistoric themed restaurants that serve slabs of everything from ostrich to game, chicken to salmon, with more than a little Yabba-dabba-doo. Give yourself up to total immersion into all things Fred Flintstone from the faux rock, mammoth tusk décor to the hunter-gatherer portions of meat, with signature sauces and not many vegetables. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 11:30 - 23:00. Also at Prague 2, Nezamyslova 10, tel. 224 93 62 72; Prague 5, Na Bělidle 40, tel. 257 32 69 08, Prague 7, Milady Horákové 52, tel. 233 31 08 84. (80 - 280Kč). Techtle Mechtle J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 47, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 222 25 01 43, www.techtle-mechtle. cz. New restaurant and bar which has the elements to make it work: good Mediterranean menu and wine list - although neither of these have been finalised yet, friendly staff, deep cellar to keep noise in and prying eyes out - well, it is called Hanky Panky after all… and plasma screens showing fashion & MTV (DJs we hope will come soon). Large circular main bar with a cosy cocktail bar deeper down. Check it out. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. (140 - 450Kč). Prague In Your Pocket Japanese Korea House I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 52, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. 224 26 62 46, www.koreahouse.cz. Paper lanterns illuminate the yellow walls that feature manly Asian men wrestling, shouting and smoking. The colourful interior is as chaotic as the menu which lists both Korean and Japanese specialities such as pibimbap and loads of sushi. A celebrity has left a saucy slogan next to his picture in mysterious characters, but it’s all Korean to us. The food is good, but the servings could be bigger for all the cabbage one has to pay. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (300 - 500Kč). PTA Mediterranean Poděbrad, tel. 222 22 17 02, www.fluidumrestaurant. cz. Fluidum is as smooth as its name suggests; a good wine list complements the small yet varied menu. We sampled Fluidum Praha 3, Lucemburská 1497/6, MJiřího z October - November 2008 60 FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV Veg Food Praha 2, Londýnská 35, MIP Pavlova, tel. 222 51 50 06/721 25 52 53, info@vegfood.cz, www. vegfood.cz. A new and welcome non-meat addition to the pork-heavy dining scene. Veg Food is fairly Asian, with many soy and tofu meat alternatives. The flavors are mild, but you will taste them; vegetables are fresh and the staff is welcoming. Seek it out, even carnivores will be pleased. tel. 222 22 16 22, w w w.euf oria-restaurant.eu. Upstairs is a stylish modern Medi terranean restaurant (100 - 300Kč) wi th fabulous people watching windows and T Vs if the li ve show is boring. Downstairs in the beau tifull y restored cellar is a huge bar wi th over 200 co ck tails, DJs, dan ce floor an d lots of youn g, ri ch Czechs and expats. Eu foria is not a misnomer; mooch over and enjoy. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. BK FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE Letná & Holešovice North of town, Holešovice (K-1) is slightly scruffy while Letná (H/I-1) is centred around Letenské náměstí with some worthwhile restaurants and bars and fabulous beer garden. The Vltavská metro station lies at the edge of the area; otherwise trams N°3, 5, 8, 14 and 26 rumble north across the bridges. Night trams N°51, 53 and 54. 61 Euforia H-5, Praha 2, Žitná 4, MKarlovo Nám., Japanese Mash Hana Badeniho 3, MHradčanská, tel. 224 32 40 34. Brand-spanking new sushi house right around the corner from the Hradčanská metro station. Warm feelings embrace you as you enter thanks to the welcoming smiles and delicious smells. Sushi is lovingly displayed amidst the cozy surroundings of wood, paper lanterns and fans. Definitely check it out. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. Bars Adagio K-5, Praha 2, Polská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 737 52 50 81. Three worlds in one for this sleek restaurant, café and bar in what was James Bond Café: international, sushi and, the back room has been transformed into an Arab café with sheesha (200Kč) and backgammon. The Europe and the New World wine list is well selected and well presented by the friendly and efficient staff. Cocktails and Czech beer round out this worldly spot and DJs keep global citizens around. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PAK www.blindeye.cz. You can’t keep a Blind Eye down… having been forced into speakeasy mode following a visit from the cops, Blind Eye is back on legal street so doors and windows will be open again to welcome the mixed crowd into its cellar interior. Friendly folk on both sides of the bar keep the vibe going late with help from well mixed drinks (try their signature McFly) and cool tunes. Video rental too. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. E6 Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám. Breakfast 13 99 03. Cheap Czech and full English (99Kč), with English bacon & sausages plus Colman’s and Branston pickle. They have finally got their Indian kitchen going apparently. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 200Kč). Míru, tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. A new and rising star of a club of the same name as the adjacent restaurant and music bar. The club has a good and varied roster of local and international bands and DJs rocking the decent floor, balcony and stage space. Open for gigs only and closing time depends on the band/after party. Admission 30 - 500Kč depending on the band. Q Open Thu - Sat 17:00 - 05:00. EP Venue 73 I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 73, MVltavská, tel. 728 Spanish La Bodega Flamenca H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 5, MVltavská, tel. 233 37 40 75, www.labodega.cz. What could one more naturally expect to find when hanging about in the neighbourhoods of Letna than a colourfully-tiled cellar that replicates the small-dish-rattling ways of a tapas bar? The food is a delight, and the staff are genuinely happy to see you. And should you fancy some salsa on the dance floor rather than on your plate, then this is the place for you. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. (150 - 300Kč). PEG Cafés Ouky Douky Praha 7, Janovského 14, MVltavská, tel. 266 71 15 31, www.oukydouky.cz. Holesovice’s happiest corner is somewhat like an expat hangout minus the expats – it’s up to you to decide if that’s a good or bad thing. The cosy bar sells good coffee and simple meals, sells books (mostly Czech), has internet at 90Kč/hr and occasionally throws a party. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Blind Eye K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 26, MJiřího z Poděbrad, 63, www.xt3cz. A short walk from Flóra or JzP this fabulous , cavern space of a club in Žižkov has become the new home of XT3 (it was, and will always be to many, Guru). Come early or be lucky, but get one of the balcony booths. Live music and/or DJs plus foosball, flippery (pinball),and a café upstairs with cool sofas. The eclectic crowd accompanies the talent. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. Admission from 30Kč for live acts. E XT3 Praha 3, Rokycanova 29, MFlóra, tel. 222 78 34 Bars Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 233 37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish bar in the heart of Letná rather than Old Town allows for friendlier prices and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country, blues and more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz nights, foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20Kč. Accommodation available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. French tel. 220 87 80 40, www.lacreperie.cz. If you fancy a culinary change of scene, try a taste of Brittany in the heart of Holešovice. The galettes and crepes are paper-thin, and although the fillings are not as plentiful as you’d like, it does give you the excuse to try a couple of them. Vegetarians are well catered for. They do some very reasonable wines, and even Breton cider. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (30 - 120Kč). P Hapu Praha 3, Orlická 8, MFlóra, tel. 222 72 01 58. The owner/barman creates magnificent drinks with studious care, there’s no tossing of shakers here, just mountains of fresh fruit and shots that would floor an elephant. Get here early if you want a seat or stand until you hit the deck because this place is tiny, has sounds the chilly end of cool and is therefore constantly packed. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. tel. 222 52 06 72, www.sudicka.cz. The muted wooden floors and furniture in this cellar space provide a perfect venue for low down, chill out conversation to the accompaniment of a few drinks. The fireplace entices all during the cooler months, and despite the listed closing time, Sudička keeps the mellow vibe well into the night. Czech bar snacks, magazines and no music typify the place, while the 0.4L beers ensure it isn’t a haven for drunks. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. I Pubs Pavlova, tel. 222 51 81 17. This is an Irish bar for locals who crave the beer and atmosphere of the Emerald Isle without the English-speakers. The menu lists Czech-style international dishes and some of the cheapest Guinness in town at 59Kč. It’s probably also the only pub of its genre to offer Kung Pao pork and only one TV. Odd, yet refreshing. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 24:00. BKP La Creperie J-1, Praha 7, Janovského 4, MVltavská, Martin’s Irish Pub I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 57, MI.P. Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 12, tel. 233 370 359. The Sudička K-6, Praha 3, Nitranská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, Chinese Hong Kong H-1, Praha 7, Letenské nám. 5, MHradčanská, tel. 233 37 62 09, www.hkrest.50megs. com. The service can be a little cold, but the fare, with liberal helpings of excellent chutneys on every table, should more than warm you up. Once you’ve been convinced of their cuisine, you can wander next door to their Big Shop/Little Shop to get the supplies to try to compete at home with your own culinary efforts. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00 & 18:00-23:00. Open 11:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00. (150 - 400Kč). PTAUG French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits of trams all over the place – from the plastic chairs to the hand railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Clubs Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 11, www.palacakropolis.cz. Akropolis goes a long way to saving the world on those humdrum nights in the winter. A sprawling den of scruffy delights with great and often unusual live music and DJs. There are two bars, an adjoining café, plus the excellent gig space offering some of the most intriguing music in Prague on offer. Gigs have to finish at 22:00 so start times here are punctual. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30 - 400Kč. EKW Bordo Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, MMuzeum, tel. 774 03 99 91, www.bordo.cz. A new club making waves on the scene by booking varied acts to keep the youthful audience on their toes. This second floor venue hosts reggae, live punk and underground acts, crunk dance-offs and anything else in between, plus DJs spinning discs when no bands play. Admission depends on the gig. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. P Merlin J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 68a, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 222 52 20 54, http://merlin-pub.hyperlink.cz. Merlin the magician shares brick wall space with Guinness posters and other emblems of Irishness, intermingled with antique agricultural contraptions. The long bar resembles that of an authentic pub and the sofas add to the laid-back feel. The lower level houses the restaurant, which serves the usual options with more than a dash of a varied Mexican menu. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. K Poděbrad, tel. 603 83 88 99. The one police station we’d gladly get locked in. Poličce has a young clientele and a noisy, smoky bierkeller atmosphere which is a great accompaniment for their brews - this microbrewery has been fermenting their nectar since 1517. Dark and light beers on tap and in bottles, plus food and cocktails. Cheap too, at just 14 - 17Kč for a beer. The door is on Chodská. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at Korunovační 9. K 37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You’ll have plenty of time to admire the owner’s welding work, in the form of outlandish bar stools, whilst waiting for staff to relocate your order in the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a great soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malířská 14, MVltavská, tel. 233 Clubs Cross Club Praha 7, Plynární 23, tel. 736 53 50 53, www.crossclub.cz. One of Prague’s underground legends has emerged into legal luminescence as the cool kid on the block. The labyrinthine den has, despite its slightly out of the way location, become a firm favourite. Jungle, drum ‘n base, house and chill out have their own rooms and the music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of the funkiest, most inventive and ever-changing décor around. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. 6EBK tel. 283 87 05 22, www.mecca.cz. Mecca has taken the proceeds from its status as the recent clubbing star of Prague and done something very odd. It has spent it on making the club even better. Now one can hardly shuffle from one foot to other without falling into the lap of some super-model clubbing lass lying back on one of the huge white sofas. In an attempt to put off the beer monsters they serve the smallest beers in town (0.2 litre for 20Kč). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission 150 - 200Kč. AEPU International Letenský zámeček I-2, Praha 7, Leteské sady 341, MHradčanská, tel. 233 37 82 08, www.letenskyzamecek.cz. A mock castle perched high above the city in Letná park, this is a great place to come in the summer. To one side, the cheaper tables are served by the grill sheds, to the other, decent salads, pastas and fish are escorted from the chateau itself. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (100 - 300Kč). PTAGB Svatá Klára Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 35, tel. 233 54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something completely different, descend 16m underground in this natural cave made into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone is cheered up with classical furniture and artworks, and the classy menu features Czech game dishes such as pheasant breast with forest herbs and sage. Join the likes of Brangelina and find Svatá Klára near Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from town. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (300 - 1,440Kč) Na Poličce K-6, Praha 2, Moravská 40, MJiřího z Mecca Praha 7, U Průhonu 3, MNádraží Holešovice, www.inyourpocket.com Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 62 FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE Smíchov & Anděl Long a disregarded industrial area (with the fabulous Staropramen brewery still in its midst), Smíchov (G-5/6 and westwards) is making amazing steps towards becoming another funky area. Countless restaurants and bars cater to a young Czech crowd. Anděl metro station is in the district’s heart; night trams N°54,58 and 59 will take you away from it all. FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE menu for a selection sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi set and nine piece Sashimi set was handsomely presented and deliciously refreshing. Superb service and intimate setting make this a continual favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (250 - 500Kč). AP 63 American 62 61, www.tgifridays.cz. Another location for the same as it ever was slice of Americana although this one has cheaper prices than its Old Town sibling and shares its bathrooms with Planet Sushi next door. The rejuvenation of this area is underlined by the location here of Prague’s second TGIF . QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 400Kč). AGPTW TGI Fridays Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257 28 Pizzeria U Tučňáků Praha 5, Nádražní 19, MAnděl, tel. 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the food is well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven keeps the place warm, although is more than pizza on their menu. Chicken steak with beautifully poached salmon and spinach is delicious and comes with a tasty cheese sauce. The plate of chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin a huge meal for 139Kč. Beer is a tad expensive, but the cocktail list makes up for this. Everything is fresh and the staff good. All in all a great place. The interesting looking music bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 260Kč). Wigwam G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 54, MAnděl, tel. 603 50 81 20, www.cafebarwigwam.cz. Vaguely Aztec/ Latino décor but with an international menu leaning towards the Oriental side of the globe and with no Mexican dishes at all. Excellent burgers and crisp fries join pasta, salads, steak, duck and chicken plus Thai curry and noodles dishes on their good menu. Sit in the garden complete with guardian angel or inside in one of their many rooms. Cool photography, one of the best waitresses yet and well priced drinks, including Mezcal. Budvar 29Kč make this a great find. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (95 - 255Kč). B Clubs Futurum G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 7, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 85 71, www.musicbar.cz. Smíchov is on its way to glory, and the way is paved by Futurum’s, er, futuristic rooms. Its ultra modern conversions with eccentric lighting and exposed metal and brick is inventive. The place hosts launch parties for Czech bands, the odd cultural festival and half-decent DJs. Fridays host their popular 80s & 90s night. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Admission 100Kč. E blok 7, tel. 257 21 14 39, www.klub007strahov.cz. Skulking in the basement of a block of student accommodation near Stadion Strahov, this hardcore/punk and hip-hop club has been keeping study results bad for years. QOpen 19:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 02:00. E Lebanese Safir Obchodní centrum Nový Smíchov, Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl. It’s true, Safir is in a mall and it is self service, but for vine leaves, hummus, baba gannoush, tabouleh, fatoush, falafel and gyros, you cannot complain with the flavour or price. Hot meals such as grilled fish, chicken in Mediterranean veggies etc. are daily specials and for the real fast foodies, grab a sandwich. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 200Kč). PTU Klub 007 Strahov Praha 6, Vaníčkova 7, Koleje ČVUT Seafood 31 79 49, www.lacambusa.cz. This provincial Italian kitchen serves up a small range of saltwater fish (as opposed to shellfish). In a landlocked country such as this, it’s a good sign, albeit an expensive one. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (300 - 1,300Kč). AGP Cafés Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl, www.kava-coffee.cz. The future of the café for Prague with internet in the back (free 15 minutes with purchase), Wi-Fi all over and superlative staff. Czech or English, it matters not for these always happy-to-serve girls. Smoothies and café frappés along with cheap Czech Mex standards make up the menu after the more usual cakes and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. (40 - 250Kč). W La Cambusa Praha 5, Klicperova 2, MAnděl, tel. 257 Punto Azul Praha 5, Kroftova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 Italian 12 44, www.corleone.cz. If you’re looking for good Italian and a lively atmosphere in Smíchov, then look no further than Corleone. Despite its theatrical name, it doesn’t indulge in much kitschy gangster stuff, just really tasty inexpensive pizzas and pastas. If it’s too crowded upstairs, try its lesserknown cellar. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (100 - 200Kč). PA Bars Back Doors Praha 5, Na Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl, tel. 257 31 58 24, www.backdoors.cz. This space is part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an old Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged iron work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio system, where you can hear various styles of music from famous Czech DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. AE Jet Set Praha 5, Radlická 1c, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 72 51. The central square bar is low enough for all drinkers to scan the crowd and check out who’s who this evening, the split levels ensure dancers with confidence will be centre stage, and the DJs make sure everyone has to get close together for any conversation. It’s sleek, chic and designed to empty NYC wannabes’ pockets with style. The great menu has a Mediterranean influence. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. ABGP 85 94, www.puntoazul.cz. If you tire of laughing at coked-up Martini people as the raison d’etre of your night life, try, as a suitable antidote, a long night with scruffy local ragamuffins playing tunes ranging between drum’n’bass, underground techno and deep house. A fine selection of cheap beers in a comfy budget bar/club with plenty of space to lounge around. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 03:00. Admission 50 - 100Kč. E Corleone Praha 5, Na Bělidle 42, MAnděl, tel. 251 51 Czech www.folkloregarden.cz. If you’re not one to sit still during a meal, then this is the restaurant for you. At Czech Folklore, you’re fed large portions of traditional Czech food and beer, and simultaneously entertained with a three-hour show with live music and folk dancing. Great fun if you’re in for a countrystyle party; active participation is welcomed. Czech Folklore is south of Smíchov; tram N°12, 14 or 20 to Hlubočepy. QOpen 20:00 - 22:30. (550 - 990Kč). PAEB Czech Folklore Na Zlíchově 18, tel. 251 52 22 55, U Buldoka Praha 5, Preslova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 91 54, www.ubuldoka.cz. Straddling the fence between a munched out smokey dive of a bar and a club because it’s open late and has DJs, The Bulldog, in the same vein that it was started in a few years ago, is the receptacle for the flotsam and jetsam from Chateau across the river. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Admission 50 - 100Kč. Japanese tel. 251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first genuine Japanese restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes complete with its authentic Japanese chef and food that has quickly become very popular with Prague foodies and visitors alike. Sushi, sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are here, and all are well done. Thoroughly recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (140 440Kč). AGP Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupežnického 23, MAnděl, Grotta Praha 5, Ostrovského 7, MAnděl, tel. 251 56 27 50, www.restaurace-grotta.cz. Just up the hill from Anděl bus station, this cellar restaurant is a great find. Attentive staff are welcoming as the arched and alcoved room. Food is large, filling, delicious and curiously named. Try Bloodied squirrel with asparagus or Knight’s sword with chicken steak. Alternatively, go for the Czech regulars. Excellent. And the beer is cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (99 - 225Kč). PA International Mastné prsty G-6, Praha 5, Elíšky Peškové 7, tel. 731 47 94 30. If you like chicken, Sticky Fingers is the place for you. Every conceivable method of cooking the bird is employed in this basic but brilliant haven. Friendly folk, both behind and in front of the counter and fantastic prices. QOpen 11:30 24:00. (50 - 150Kč). B 257 31 13 84, www.miragebar.cz. The service matches the classy décor and menu and the Bloody Mary is pretty damn good too. Mirage offers quality sushi, breakfast, baguettes, fondue, a 99Kč daily special, plus the usual international menu items. Good cocktails, perfect espresso and wines from 120Kč make this a great spot for a chat or dinner. QOpen 08.00 24.00, Sat, Sun 10.00 - 24.00. (60 - 350Kč). PAB Planet Sushi Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257 28 62 61. An oasis of Japanese calm among the urban bustle of Anděl/Smíchov’s busy thoroughfare, although the ambience is marred slightly by the proximity and shared bathrooms of the adjacent TGI Friday. Attentive staff and complete menu including yami rolls and desserts provide an alternative to the Japanese restaurants already in the area. Eat all you can on Sundays for 600Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 750Kč). PAG Pool Café Praha 5, Ralická 1/B (Anděl City), MAnděl, tel. 226 08 21 32/737 04 91 58, www.sushigohome. cz. From the makers of SushiPoint at the Myslbek centre comes the same menu in more laid back surroundings. It’s all a tad Hockney inside with a refracting pool-like paint job, but the sushi, sashimi and nigiri are the same high quality. Nice and very useful for pre-movie eats. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. (180 - 600Kč). A Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 49, MAnděl, tel. 603 24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for the best sushi, this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi tel. 777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A climbing bar in Anděl, with air conditioned walls, claiming to be the third largest in Europe. With good overhangs and some tough lines, the wall will create a thirst that is easily and cheaply quenched in the popular bar upstairs, where the prime spor t is ver tical flir ting. A weird foosball table downstairs too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Climbing wall open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat & Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 60Kč per day. BP Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, Mirage G-1, Praha 5, Náměstí 14. října 17, MAnděl, tel. Pekelnej Bar Praha 5, Na Bělidle 38, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 24 10, www.pekelnejbar.cz. Anděl might mean angel in Czech, but this par t of town is acquiring a devilish reputation. Pekelnej, meaning Hellish, is heavy on chains, red draper y and attitude. DJs spin nightly al though the lack of dance floor means you have to jostle with one another. E xcellent Bloody Mar y for just 80Kč and Czech wine from 160Kč a bottle. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. Pavel Vítek Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT Prague is as famous for its sex clubs as it is for its beer. Stag nights take advantage of the price and availability of both, and on the whole these clubs are well organised and clean. Safe sex is practiced, and bouncers and/or managers will explain the rules and methods of each place on arrival. It is cheaper to partake over here, but that does not mean you won’t pay for the privilege of watching a live sex or lesbian show. Generally, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee (around 500Kč) to sit at the bar; this fee is waived if you are there to pay for other services immediately. Many of the central clubs pay men and women to entice you off the street and into their nearby establishments, but if you’re heading somewhere by taxi, make sure you’re taken to the one you want to go to rather than the one the taxi driver gets commission from. Check prices of services and drinks, and enjoy… Korunní 5, MNám. Míru, tel. 224 25 05 05, www.k5relax. cz. The best club in Prague, and considered by experts as one of the top sex clubs any where in Central Europe. From friendly doormen to the hands-on management who will answer all of your questions in as many languages as you can imagine, to the lovely girls who will look after your every wish, this place has it all. A computerised payment system ensures that you will not be ripped off. We cannot recommend K5 more. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. A 65 K5 Relax Club J-5, Praha 2, Big Sister Praha 5, Nádražní 46, tel. 257 31 00 43/257 31 00 44, bigsister@bigsister.net, www.bigsister.net. Forget about big brother watching you, this is voyeurism Big Sister style. Prague’s first online brothel has 40 girls, 58 cameras and you being beamed live onto the internet via 17 videostreams. Pay €10 entrance, sign away your anonymity (masks are not allowed) and the girls are free. Add the theme rooms, pool, sauna, and showbar with lap dancers, Big Sister is one unique experience. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A C l u b 1 6 1 K-2, Praha 8, Sokolovská 161, MKřižíkova, tel. 284 81 02 62, 161@nightclub161. cz, www.club161.cz. A small residential house hosts from two (in the day) to 12 lovely girls for your pleasure. Downstairs is a bar and pole for strip and lesbian shows, while upstairs you can take your pick of four rooms and/ or a Jacuzzi. An S&M room has toys, PVC ever y thing and whips if that’s your bag, baby. Free entrance and decent bar prices.QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 06:00. AL Praha 3, Koněvova 66, tel. 269 76 128, www.c600. cz. Cosy club offering all the fun of the fair from three in the afternoon to the very early hours of the morning. Always a good number of Czech girls on hand to provide you with whatever assistance and relaxation you may need. QOpen 15:00 - 05:00. Carioca E-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám. 1, MMůstek, tel. 296 32 53 14. A large open room with a central stage hosts girls galore doing the can-can and go-go, plus strip and lesbian shows. The place resembles a wedding reception complete with faux Louis XIV furniture, but you lads aren’t here for the décor, now are you? QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. AP Club 600 October - November 2008 66 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT Darling Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 32a, MMuzeum, w w w.kabaret.cz. One of th e big gest and most popular of the adult clubs in town but it’s not cheap as it caters for the comparatively rich tourists. Head over to Václavské Nám. and just tr y to miss it... you’ve probably seen and been photographed next to their limo too. Watch cabaret, lesbian shows, Thai Fire shows and table dancing cour tesy of 150-200 girls a night. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Tue 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Desire Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, V Jámě 8, MMůstek, tel. 296 338 539, info@desire-cabaret.cz, w w w. desire-cabaret.cz. Centrall y located night club wi th all th e usual a t tractions, in cludin g eroti c dan cers, striptease, lesbian shows and full ser vice massage. Popular wi th visi tors, pay th em a visi t and you will discover why. Escade I-7, Praha 4, Křesomyslova 5, tel. 241 40 98 88, www.escade.cz. Tucked down in Nusle is Escade, home to thirty girls every night for your viewing (and more) pleasure. Get comfortable in the sofa-laden bar before taking your pick of one of their spacious rooms, sauna or whirlpool. The usual strip and erotic shows are crowd pleasers, and Escade also offers soft S&M, services for couple, special private arrangements and an escort service. Just in case you go overboard, there’s an ATM. Q Open 24 hrs. AP Extasy Cabaret Praha 3, Chlumova 13, tel. 222 78 00 48/777 206 006, www.extasy.cz. E xtasy offers a cour tesy car from any where in Prague and a free welcome drink for punters. This is a well-known place for quali ty girls and imaginati ve shows, for example, Cher yl and her drill - use that imagination… yup, that’s right. Any way, it’s all air conditioned, they have a bar with dance, erotic and lesbian shows, massage, plus various rooms and even a waterbed. E xtasy also hosts film and photo shoots. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. A Follow Me Praha 7, Na Šachtě 5, tel. 608 84 41 43, www.followme. cz. Follow me to a place where you can get away from it all and enjoy the delights of erotic girls there just to please you. And believe us, they will. Drinks, free transport, low prices but above all, hot chicks. Near the Výstaviště grounds in Holešovice. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Goldf inger’s E-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám. 4, MMůstek, tel. 222 19 38 56. No sex please, we’re British. This is not the call of either James Bond or the stag-partier, but that is the ethic at Goldfinger’s, the classiest strip joint in town.QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. AP Prague’s only cabaret at hotel Ambassador The original l Luxurious cabaret in the centre of Prague ladies and gentlemen, casual or business-travellers, stag parties or hen you all are welcome to Goldfingers Air conditioned open daily: y: : 8 pm - 4 am m Václavské náměstí 5, 110 00 Praha 1, tel.: +420 608 663 066 www.goldfingers.cz For more entertainment: www.inyourpocket.com Prague In Your Pocket 68 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT NEW ADULT ENTERTAINMENT 69 Hot Pepper’s F-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám. 21. Enter their Gate to Hell under Duplex for some fun with different days featuring different girls performing different shows to entice various men into this hot spot. Whatever your palate, Hot Pepper’s probably has a dish for your liking – from the classic can-can to the regimented Army of Pepper’s, just don’t call her Sergeant. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. AP 90, www.lauraclub.cz. Great little club in Žižkov where you can enjoy lovely Czech girls strip for you three nights a week before escorting one to a private room to help you drink your sparkling wine. When there is no strip action there are still always plenty of girls ready to entertain you in as many ways as you can imagine. QOpen 15:00 - 05:00. A Laura Club Praha 3, Jeseniova 166, tel. 271 77 46 Lotos Club Praha 4, Kupeckého 832, MHáje, tel. 272 91 68 25, www.lotos.cz. Newly renovated and still specialising in the discreet luxury niche. Lotos is modelled on a gentleman’s club although with the added bonus of young girls, pool and S&M room for starters. Choose from over 20 quality girls a night. Free entrance voucher on the website. Q Open 24hrs. A Neon Club Balbinová 21, MMuzeum, tel. 222 25 01 05/733 12 10 22, www.neonclub.cz. The Neon Club offers three exotic floors of strippers, lap dancers and escort services. The first floor will amuse with its selection of sex toys; while the second has a reasonably priced cocktail bar and dancing girls. Ascend to the third and you can catch a game in their sports bar. QOpen 12:00 - 5:00. Red Light Praha K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábř., 124_921.indd 1 MVltavská, tel. 261 31 41 51, www.redlight.cz. In the middle of Holešovice market is Prague’s very own little Amsterdam. Red Light is a whole melange of saucy goings on in one location. You will find an Amsterdam/Frankfurt style sex supermarket, a red light centre with a peep show and video rooms and the Pleasure sex shop selling saucy souvenirs for the boys and girls back home. Q Sex Park open 24hrs, shop open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:0015:00, closed Sun. A Sugar’s Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 25, MMuzeum, tel. 222 21 07 96. Get a free beer while you watch one of their strip, lesbian or auto-erotic shows. If you so desire, have extra sugar in your bowl with a choice of seven rooms – one has a whirlpool. Various theme nights spice things up too. QOpen 19:00 - 07:00. AP Sweet Paradise Praha 3, Slezská 75, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 737 66 82 33/272 73 29 06, www. sweetparadise.cz. Boasting 12-20 (of 50) girls available per night, this is a more local affair offering beer and girls, the most famous of Czech commodities. All sorts available from shows at the tiki bar, basic theme rooms, ‘special’ services and long term escorts. Print the discount voucher from the website. Foreign currency accepted. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. A Velvet Praha 4, Ve Svahu 13, MVyšehrad, tel. 241 43 26 74, www.velvetclub.cz. The self-proclaimed ‘flagship of erotic’ calls for all hands on deck a short taxi ride south of the centre. Amenities include bubble baths, video, free minibar and escort services. Call ahead and a taxi will pick you up free of charge. Q Open 24hrs. A Prague In Your Pocket 1.8.2008 11:53:54 October - November 2008 70 PRAGUE CASTLE flanking the presidential rooms, which are not open to the public. As you walk through the archway, the steps on your right are where many of the official greetings are made to visiting heads of state. The essentials of Prague - if you see nothing else, do not miss these sights. Obviously in this city that has been a destination for hundreds of years, there is much to see and do, and one of the most enjoyable aspects is just wandering around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded spires are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. But keep an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not renowned for their cleaning-up ability. THE ESSENTIALS to the attacks on Soviet tanks with Molotov cocktails in 1968. Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row of houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece of the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in swastikas by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing of the Prague Spring. 71 Second courtyard. Reconstructed by Empress Maria Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for two of the entrances into the castle. You can exit under the archway to reach the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams N°22 and 23. St. Vitus Cathedral (Katedrála svatého Víta). The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods. From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica, to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral, the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture plus marching soldiers and entertainment. Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradčany, tel. 224 37 33 68, www.hrad.cz. There are two information centres, one in the second courtyard and one in the third. Here you can find out what time the changing of the guard takes place, buy tickets and get audio guides. There are four ways to approach the castle. By far the best way is to take tram N°22 or 23 to the Pohořelec stop, where you start with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov Monastery; then walk down through beautiful Hradčanská district along Loretánská towards the main castle entrance on Hradčanské náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk by getting off the tram earlier, at the Pražský hrad stop, from where you enter the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up Nerudova and the steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The worst approach is up the Staré zámecké schody steps near Malostranská metro station; these are best kept for the way down. Q Buildings & Info open 09:00 - 16:00. Courtyards (admission free) open 06:00 - 23:00. Castle gardens and Jelení příkop are closed. Admission to the Old King’s Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Powder Tower, Picture Gallery and Golden Lane: 350Kč. Cathedral, Old King’s Palace, St. George’s Basilica and Golden Lane: 220Kč. Reductions for families. Hradčanské Nám. 2. The most distinctive and largest of the buildings on the cobbled square sweeping into the castle is this palace with decorated bricks - are they flat? Built between 1545 -1563, the building has been home to the Museum of Military History since 1945. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Moving into the third courtyard of the castle you’ll face one of Europe’s great Gothic cathedrals. St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of the nation as the mausoleum of Bohemian kings and the city’s greatest landmark. Work on the present cathedral was started in 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated until 1929. Don’t miss the beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgment of Christ on the exterior of the cathedral. The mosaic is 84 square metres and was created in 1371. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. oldest and most impressive parts of the castle, the Old Royal Palace dates from 1135 and was the seat of Bohemian princes. From the 13th to the 16th century it was the king’s palace. All presidents have been sworn in here, and this building was where the 1618 defenestration took place. The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle exhibition. Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens below. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. MStaroměstská. Karlův most joins Staré Město (Old Town) and the Malá Strana (Little Quarter) and is one of the world’s most beau tiful bridges. The bridge was built in 1357, but the figures of saints were added during the 17th century. They symbolise the confidence of the Catholic Austrian’s triumph over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is thronged all day with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful views of the illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be alone and witness the saints emerging from the mist. Charles Bridge (Karlův most) C-3, Praha 1, Old Royal Palace (Starý královský palác). One of the St George’s Basilica (Bazilika svatého Jiří). The Romanesque church lurking behind a Baroque facade in the courtyard behind St. Vitus. Now deconsecrated, it serves as a concert hall. In the chapel on the right of the presbytery is the tomb of St. Ludmila, the first Czech saint. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. ní Dům) F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 21 27, w w w.obecnidum.cz. The magnificent Obecní Dům building holds two restaurants, a super café, an American bar, a gallery, shop and classical music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in the architecturally stunning Art Nouveau style, the Municipal House has been painstakingly restored to its former glory. It was here that the Czechoslovakian state was signed into being on October 28, 1918. It was also here in 1989 that communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders of the Civic Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and the state’s transformation to democracy. National Theatre (Národní divadlo) C-4, Národní 2, Municipal House (Obec- Staroměstské Nám., MStaroměstská. The 14th centur y Town Hall complex features a tower with an astronomical clock, added in the 15th century. Every hour on the hour Jesus and his disciples lead a pageant that includes the allegorical figures of Death, the Turk, the Miser, the Fool and the Rooster. It sounds more impressive than it actually is, but it’s still worth a look. The climb or lift up the tower is rewarded by the stunning views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 60/40Kč. Town Hall & Astronomical clock (Staromestská radnice) E-3, Praha 1, Schwarzenberg Palace (Schwarzenberský palác) Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička). The phrase ‘pic- Sternberg Palace (Šternberský palác) Hradčanské Nám. 15. Sharing an entrance with the Archbishop’s Palace is the Šternberský palác from 1698. It’s part of the National Gallery and home to a collection of European art, including Rubens and Rembrandt. In 1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million worth of Picassos. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50/20Kč. turesque street’ might have been invented to describe this tiny cobbled lane with its miniature workers’ cottages - now shops. It was on this street, or so legend has it, that 16th-century alchemists laboured to discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold from lead. Franz Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, N°22. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. MNárodní třída, tel. 224 90 16 68. This lavish neoRenaissance building on the bank of the Vltava, with its golden crown of chariot-driving women, is Prague’s National Theatre. The building was completed in 1881 and was almost immediately destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883. See Events for the current programme. Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, Soběslavova 1, MVyšehrad. Th e rock y cli ff-top boasts Prague’s second castle. In the hear ts and minds of many Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises the birth of the Czech nation and is shrouded in legend and myth. This is apparently the spot where Princess Libuše stood and predicted the rise of a great city. Literally translated as ‘high castle’, it was probably founded in the middle of the 10th century. In 972 Prince Boleslav II built the royal mint here, and in 1085 Vratislav II selected it as his residence. Over the following centuries successive kings remodelled the palace and fortress, but moved their permanent home across the river. Within the for tress confines is the national cemeter y (Vyšehradský hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the final resting place of many of the most famous Czech writers and composers, including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and Antonín Dvořák. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. We n c e s l a s S q u a r e (Václavské náměstí ) Daliborka Tower. Built in 1496 and used as a prison till Fir st cour tyar d. Pause at the castle gates to admire the soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard. Then move into the courtyard Prague In Your Pocket the end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as you exit the Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy, whose story was told by Smetana in his 1868 opera Dalibor. The underground cell is truly terrifying. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Palace Gardens B-1, Valdštejnská 12. A large set of steeply terraced gardens leading up to the castle. The steep climb up to the castle is rewarded by fitness, some beautiful landscaping and stunning views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 80/40Kč, families 180Kč. MStaroměstská. The indisputable heart of Prague. This vast open space is flanked by a pleasing blend of carefully restored architectural styles: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and neo-styles. The square is notable for its constant hum of activity, day and night, and a long history as centre stage for so many of the city’s defining moments, from the execution of preacher J. Želivský in 1422, O l d To w n S q u a r e (Staroměstské náměstí) E-3, Praha 1, F-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám., MMůstek. Václavské náměstí is actually a boulevard running down from the National Museum and the equestrian statue of Saint Wenceslas to Můstek, formerly the site of of a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds traditionally come to demonstrate against their incompetent rulers, and this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to shake their keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Party. Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Hotel Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by night it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid the square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in a tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back. October - November 2008 72 WHAT TO SEE Churches D-3, Praha 1, Betlémské náměstí, MStaroměstská. From 1402 to 1412, Jan Hus preached at the Bethlehem Chapel, hence it’s significance for non-Catholics, but in 1622, the Jesuits took control of the chapel and Catholic mass became the service of the day. Then in 1786 it was levelled, only to be rebuilt (somewhat strangely) by the communists, who had preserved its architectural plans in 1950. Apparently, they were keen to exploit ithe chapel’s symbolism as an historic emblem of Czech national pride. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. itská 9, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 36 46, www. karmel.at/prag-jesu. This house of worship was built by German Lutherans between 1611-1615. To the right of the entrance is a commemorative site to the 16th century Spanish nun, St. Therese of Avila, who along with friar John of the Cross, reformed the Carmelite order into what is known as the Discalced Carmelites. Further inside is the church’s claim to fame, a 45cm high wax statuette of Jesus known as the Infant Jesus of Prague, which is a pilgrimage site of sorts - for its historical and religious importance, and a couple of unnamed miracles that have been attached to it. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. WHAT TO SEE collection of diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel there is the brickwork supposedly from the original Loreto in Italy which was flown over from Italy by some well-meaning angels. Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was supposedly caused by a thunderbolt fired off at one of your kind. Q Open 09:15 - 12:15, 13:00 - 16:30. Admission 80/60Kč. 73 Bethlehem Chapel (Betlémská Kaple) Our Lady of Snow (U Panny Marie Sněžné) E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám, MMůstek. The towering Gothic torso hidden near Václavské náměstí was started off in 1347 by Charles IV as a Carmelite order monastery. Construction was stopped by the Hussites in 1419, and only the 34m-high choir of the planned 110m-long church was finished. The Franciscans renovated the ruins of the church in 1604, adding the magnificent Renaissance altar. The peaceful adjacent monastery gardens (Františkánská zahrada) are an excellent place to soak up the sun. Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church H-5, Praha 1, Resslova 9, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 224 92 06 86. This Orthodox church was built in honour of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, the men responsible for the Slavonic alphabet. However, most people know about this church because of what happened here at 04:10 on the morning of June 18, 1942 when the Nazis had discovered that the seven Czech parachutists involved in the assassination of Reichsprotektor Heydrich were hiding in the crypt. The west side of Karlovo náměstí was cordoned off by 800 troops from the SS and the Gestapo. Three of the soldiers died as the SS stormed the church. The remaining four fought on. After hours of shooting and a long stand-off which led to the Germans deciding to literally flush them out, they used their last bullets on each other. The bullet-scarred exterior wall holds a plaque in honour of their bravery. Q Crypt open 10:00 - 17:00; Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Discount cards (Go Prague), MMůstek, tel. 775 55 51 71, www. pragueplaypass.com. Discounts too numerous to mention (nightclubs, bars, restaurants, sightseeing) and probably too numerous to utilise, but this €20 gets you a lot of freebies and special prices. Buy online, at the airport or the Kali boutique (F-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 9. Open 10:00 - 19:00). bump into philosopher Emmanuel Kant here; he believed that an esthetic object is only art if it has no use (he’s also long dead). Built in 1899 in commemoration of Franz Josef becoming emperor, the building itself is impressive, too. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/30Kč. A 92 33 63, www.nm.cz. The Dvořák Museum is housed in the so-called Villa America, a Baroque summer palace designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who was also responsible for the beautiful St. Nicholas Church in Malá Strana. This museum houses a good collection of memorobilia from the life and work of Dvořák, the Czech composer famous for the New World Symphony, among others. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70Kč. Prague Play Pass F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 15 Church of Our Lady Victorious B-3, Praha 1, Karmel- St. Ignatius Church (Kostel Sv. Ignáce) H-5, Praha 2, Ječná 2, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 224 92 12 54. The construction of what was intended to be a basilica began in 1665 on these very grounds. In 1671 the church alongside Karlovo Square was finally completed and the large statue of Saint Ignatius, the founder of the Jesuit order, was placed on top. The church is still active and run by Jesuit monks. Praha1, Malostranské nám. 38, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 42 15. Construction of this Baroque pile began in 1673, but it would be nearly another 80 years until the Jesui ts completed i t. Peer closely at the copper statue of St. Nicholas above the gold coated altar; the two statues below him are of St. Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Xavier. The ceiling fresco depicts the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also of interest is the organ, which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers, and it was these very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Admission 25/50Kč. ha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel. 233 10 77 18, www. strahovskyklaster.cz. The Strah ov Monaster y has stood on th e approach to the castle since 1140. Today, this Romanesque monastery houses various museums for religious ar ts and is home to the qui te stunning central chapel. The Museum of Czech Literature (open 09:00 - 12:00; 13:00 - 17:00, admission 50Kč), is housed in the monastic libraries. The Theological and Philosophical Halls are superb but can only be viewed from the doorways. Items available for closer inspection are manuscripts from the 14th century, a stuffed dodo, and a large collection of crabs, fish, shells and insects. The Strahov Gallery in the central courtyard (open 09:00 - 17:00, admission 35Kč) has one of the finest collections of monastic art in Central Europe. Trams N°22,23 to Pohořelec. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 60/40Kč. Museums & Galleries Army Museum Praha 3, U Pamatníku 2, MFlorenc, tel. 973 20 49 24, www.militarymuseum.cz. Found at the foot of Vitkov Hill and with a Coke machine standing guard, this military museum is part of the Historical Institute of the Army of the Czech Republic which also operates research and libraries. Loads of weaponry, medals and uniforms as well as thousands of toy soldiers waging war upon one another. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15Kč. Dvořák Museum I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel. 224 St. Nicholas Church B-2, Aviation Museum Praha 9, Mladoboleslavská, tel. 220 Loreta A-1, Praha 1, Lorentánské nám. 7. One of the country’s most famous places of pilgrimage, this chapel is just a quick walk from the main entrance to the castle. Built b et ween 1626-1720, this Baroque building contains, among other icons and objects, a painting of a bearded lady, ornate friezes, bejewelled icons and a high quota of chubby-cheeked cherubs. The small museum also houses a 20 75 13, www.militarymuseum.cz. A meticulous historical collection of the Czech airforce. 275 airplanes, ranging from MIG fighters to those alarming looking constructions of paper and wood that madmen once flew in.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15Kč. B-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 52, tel. 224 81 67 72, www. muzeumprahy.cz. This homage to the city of a hundred spires includes a paper model of the city that took 11 years to create and a gigantic model of the entire city at the beginning of the 19th century. This wood and paper model was made from 1829-1837 by Antonin Langweil and is a highlight to the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20Kč. Republiky, tel. 224 21 17 46, www.ngprague.cz. The angular grace of 1920s cubism is apparent in the minimalist and abstract lines of the sculptures, paintings, furniture, ceramics and architecture on show at this small but delightful museum. Cubism in the Czech Republic permeated all aspects of design, applied arts and graphics, which is beautifully illustrated by the variety of exhibits. The House at the Black Madonna, which houses the museum, was built in 1911 as a department store and is itself a monument to Cubism. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/50Kč. Futura Praha 5, Holečkova 49, MAnděl, tel. 251 51 18 04, www.futuraprojekt.com. This non-profit gallery was opened in June 2003 to provide an accessible space for contemporary art. Three floors of a renovated factory. Tram 4, 7, 9, 10 to Bertramka. Q Open Wed - Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské náměstí 5a, tel. 222 22 21 57, www.g jf.cz. An exhibition hall showcasing, for the most part, the artistic elements of architecture. The gallery works in partnership with the Czech Architecture Foundation and exhibits fine examples of groundbreaking Czech and international architectural marvels. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Galerie La Femme E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 2, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 26 56. A small but fully laden gallery celebrating woman as eternal inspiration, although the myriad pieces hanging, stacked or free standing have subjects beyond women. Vibrant oils, tactile sculptures, evocative sketches, international exhibitions and more make La Femme a place to explore and buy. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. 35 40 66, www.galeriemiro.cz. In St. Rocha Church and host to contemporary and classical artists including Goya, Dalí, Chagnall, Warhol and Picasso. A privately owned gallery and on the tourist trail between the castle and Strahov monastery. Tram N°22 or 23 to Pohořelec. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. City Museum (Muzeum hlavního města Prahy) Strahov Monastery Pra- Cubism Museum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNám. Tourist information 1, Celetná 14, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 49 17 64/224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz. Tickets, accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks, maps and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Galerie MIRO Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel. 233 Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1, (Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, tel. 236 00 25 62, www.prague-info.cz. This excellent official tourist information centre provides vocal and written information in various languages from helpful and knowledgeable staff, plus tickets, excursions, and accommodation. For general information in English, Czech or German call tel. 124 44. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Also at I-3, Praha hlavní nádraží & B-2, Praha 1, Malá Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00. Prague In Your Pocket tel. 222 22 02 18, www.cmvu.cz. Large collection of fine arts including classics and more modern works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Kč. Czech Museum of Fine Arts (České muzeum výtvarných umění v Praze) D-3, Praha 1, Husova 19 - 21, Decorative Arts Museum (UpM) D-2, Praha 1, 17. listopadu 2, tel. 251 09 31 35, www.upm.cz. Basically, this is a museum of stuff. Its permanent exhibit showcases what normal articles (clocks, ceramics, glass, clothing, photographs, furniture) from the 19th-20th century. You won’t Galerie Václava Špály Praha 1, Národní 30, MMůstek, tel. 224 94 67 38, www.spalovka.cz. The Galerie Václava Špály is once again open to the public and promising the same prestigious exhibitions it was once renowned for. Špála was a Czech avant-garde painter from the early 20th century. The museum’s heyday was in the late 60’s-early 70’s, and again after 1989. The beginning of the new century saw a change in management and vision. Now, it’s back and the art scene will be richer for it. Expect a wide-variety of contemporary art from both foreign and local artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč. October - November 2008 74 WHAT TO SEE Jewish Prague Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a millennium ago. The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781 when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which permitted the free exercise of religion and the secularisation of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called Josefov to this day in his honour. From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most of Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town hall remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement buildings. Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s Jewish legacy and the post-war communists did little to alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jewish inhabitants chose to emigrate. WHAT TO SEE Gallery KusKovu J-3, Praha 1, Biskupský dvůr 6, Old New Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Červená 2. Of all the synagogues in Prague, this is perhaps the most important. It has stood here since the 13th century, and despite fires, floods and the Nazi occupation, remains today the functional, spiritual centre of the Jewish community. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 200Kč. High Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Červená 4. The High Synagogue is no longer open to the public. It is next to the Old New Synagogue - note the clock on the façade of the pink building next door; it has Hebrew numbers and turns counter-clockwise. MNám. Republiky, tel. 737 20 01 27, www.kuskovu.cz. The Piece of Metal gallery is a blacksmith’s delight, showing and selling metal sculptures, objects and jewellery. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. 75 Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Pražský hrad, Jiřská 3, tel. 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovický Palac, in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and the origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum, which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40Kč. Langhans Galerie I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, MMůstek, tel. 222 92 93 33, www.langhansgalerie.cz. The sleek lined, clean-cut minimalism of a award-winning symbiosis of old and new architecture is complemented beautifully by the photographic exhibitions hanging on its walls. Behind the Foto Škoda store, which in itself is a museum of old and new cameras. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60/20Kč. Lapidarium Praha 7, Výstaviště, tel. 233 37 56 36, www. nm.cz. A superb permanent exhibition of stone sculpture in the Czech lands from 11th to 19th century. In an international competition in 1995, the collection ranked among the ten most beautiful expositions in Europe. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč. Jewish Museum E-2, Praha 1, U Staré školy 1, tel. 221 71 15 62, www.jewishmuseum.cz. The starting point for an exploration of Prague’s Jewish past and present. Unfortunately, the idea for a museum encompassing the Jewish Quarter is not new. The reason that the main buildings and cemetery in the Jewish Quarter are still intact, is that Hitler intended to transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture. The Jewish Museum supervises the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel and Spanish Synagogues, but not the Old New Synagogue, although you can buy a combined ticket for entry to all. You’ll need to go early to avoid the crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat. Admission 300/200Kč for all sights. hřbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque building which houses a permanent exhibition showing Jewish customs and traditions - and the occasional art exhibition. Next door is the Ceremonial Hall. 1310/7, tel. 222 31 90 02. The newest, biggest, and arguably most spectacular of Prague’s synagogues, the Jubilee Synagogue is so called because it was decided upon on the 50th anniversary of the accession of Franz Joseph I. Built in pseudo-Moorish style and dedicated on 16 Sept 1906 during the festival of Simhat Torah, the synagogue has a service on Sat at 09:00 and is open to visitors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - 17:00 (except Saturdays). MŽelivského, tel. 272 74 18 93. Much larger and much less visited than the Old Town Cemetery. Founded in 1890, it has some impressive graves from the early 1900s. Franz Kafka is buried at grave N°137. Jubilee Synagogue I-4, Praha 1, Jeruzalémská Historical Pharmacies Exposition A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova 32, tel. 257 53 15 02. This expo does exactly what it says on the label - a somewhat diminutive collection of jars, scales, pictures and exhibits revolving around medical treatments from the 19th century. The lovely ladies working here will often follow you about and add commentary as they see fit. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč. House at the White Unicorn (Dům u bílého jednorožce) E-3, Praha 1, Staromestské nám. 15, Leica Gallery Praha 1, Školská 28, MMůstek, tel. 608 96 35 24, www.lgp.cz. Their new Gallery will be open again on 7 May. Check out their cafe, bookshop, and of course some of the best photo exhibits in town.QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Sun. New Jewish Cemetery Praha 3, Vinohradská, Žižkov Jewish Cemetery Prague 3, Fibichova. Only Klausen Synagogue D-2, Praha 1, U Starého a peaceful small corner remains of this Jewish cemetary at the foot of the TV tower. Originally a plague cemetary established well away from the city limits in 1680, 40,000 people were buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and Romantic style tombstones survived the ages. Q Open Tue, Thu 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20Kč. MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 39 09, www.daliexhibition. cz. This central exhibition space caters to the big names, and not only in Czech art. Much to the delight of the world’s moustache aficionados, this house is exhibiting a selection of graphics, sculpture and pottery from Salvador Dali. Another area is dedicated to Alfons Mucha, the master of Art Nouveau while a neighbouring house (E-3, Praha 1, Celetná 9, tel. 222 31 30 64) hosts a selection of images from the infamous photographer Jan Saudek. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 150/70Kč. Saudek & Mucha 150/70Kč or 250/120Kč combined ticket. Mánes Exhibition Hall G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábřeží 250, tel. 224 93 0 7 54, www.nadace-cfu.cz. A major exhibition space for all forms of modern and contemporary art from the Czech Art Fund Foundation. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Mozart Museum (Bertramka) Praha 5, Mozartova 169, MAnděl, tel. 257 31 67 53, www.bertramka.cz. This museum, dedicated to the Austrian Wunderkind and the family he lived with in Prague, is located in a 17th century villa. The villa, owned by the Dušek family, is where Mozart wrote Don Giovanni. There’s a bust of the famed composer in the villa gardens, and music scores and concert posters are preserved inside. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Admission 90/50Kč. Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Panská 7, MMůstek, tel. 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. Mucha shaped the Art Nouveau movement with his groundbreaking (and often stolen from Paris’ streets) posters for actress Sarah Bernhardt and the Theatre de la Renaissance, and has some renown as a photographer with the studies for his various masterpieces. He also has an excellent shot of a trouserless Paul Gauguin at a harmonium. A fitting tribute to artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and huge magnum opus of which there are strangely no photos), or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads. Don’t miss the short biographical film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120Kč. Jewellery Collection C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, tel. Maisel Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Maiselova 10. Maisel Synagogue is home to a large collection of silverware, previously confiscated from Jewish families by the Nazis. Their permanent exhibition, The History of Jews in Bohemia and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit. inside Pinkas Synagogue are chillingly covered with the names of 77,297 Jewish Holocaust victims from Bohemia and Moravia. There is also a permanent exhibition of children’s drawings from Terezin concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944. Pinkas Synagogue D-2, Praha 1, Široká 3. The walls Prague’s Schindler Three trainloads of Jewish children were able to escape from German-occupied Prague in the spring and summer of 1939, before war broke out, thanks to the efforts of the man dubbed (post-Spielberg, of course) the Schindler of Prague. Bill Barazetti, together with a British stockbroker, arranged papers and transport for three trainloads of children - the Kindertransporte - to leave the city and travel via the Netherlands to safety in London. A fourth train left Prague on the eve of the war but it never reached the Netherlands and was not heard of again. In August 1939 Barazetti fled to Britain, but it was 50 years before his story became known. 221 45 13 33. The Hergetova cihelna (brickyard building) near Karlův most, houses an exhibition from the collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts. This incredible array of pieces illustrating the the art of jewellery design from the 17th century includes items from Fabergé and Tiffany. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. ha 1, Hergetova Cihelna, Cihelná 2b, tel. 257 53 55 07, w w w.kaf kamuseum. cz. This new collection entitled The City of K. Franz Kafka and Prague opened in Barcelona in 1999, transferred to the Jewish Museum in New York in 2002 and opened in Prague in the summer of 2005. This museum illuminates the crucial relationship between the man and the city. It is divided into Existential Space where we see what Prague did with and to Kafka, and Imaginary Topography which looks at how Kafka creates enigmatic layers of his city through first editions and letters, diaries and manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120/60Kč. tel. 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Sitting prettily on the west bank of the Vltava is this large collection of Central European modern art with exhibitions of works by painter František Kupka, cubist sculpture by Otto Gutfreund and the works of collage artist and poet Jiří Kolář. The cafe overlooking the river is fabulous. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 100/50Kč. Kafka Museum C-2, Pra- Museum of Communism F-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, Old Jewish Cemetery D-2, Praha 1, Široká 2, (en- trance from Pinkas Synagogue). From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final resting place for Prague’s Jewish community; some 12,000 graves are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest and most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave with the most pebbles piled on top of it. To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover their heads; kippas are provided at the entrance. tel. 224 21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz. The posters featuring the workers of the state, featuring a mix of socialist-realism which produces simultaneous hilarity and dark brooding, are almost worth the entrance fee on their own. Errant and erratic household objects can give this place an incomplete feel, however, the photos and historical information on display are a minimalist introduction to the events of this period. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 130Kč. Muzeum Karlova Mostu (Charles Bridge Museum) Spanish Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 12. This neo-Moorish structure was built in 1868 to replace the previously demolished Old Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and stained glass. Restored in 1998, the synagogue houses an exhibition on the history of Czech Jews. Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnické nám. 3, MStaroměstská, tel. 739 30 95 51, www.muzeumkarlovamostu.cz. This new museum, opened to coincide with the 650th anniversary of the building of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the clever number logo is no coincidence, 135797531. The first stone was laid at 05:31 on 9 July). English texts are available to explain the unique Knights of the Red Cross hospital location, their church and crypt, various bridges; an arch and pillar of the even older (1158 - 1172) Judit Bridge, and others in the region, construction techniques, etc. Charles Bridge, with its statues and history, is the focus but there is so much more. Fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. 100/70Kč. Prague In Your Pocket October - November 2008 76 WHAT TO SEE Praha 1, Václavské nám. 68, tel. 224 49 71 11, www. nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions include pre-historical, mineralogical, palaeontological, zoological, and there is a good collection of bronze statues of famous Czechs is in the pantheon of the building. One of the most celebrated buildings in Prague, but its exhibits are not nearly as impressive. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed every first Tue of the month. Admission 120/70Kč. Praha 1, U Staré školy 3, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 71 15 11, www.jewishmuseum.cz. As synagogues and prayer rooms began to be demolished by Prague’s municipal offices at the end of the 19th century, the Czech-Jewish community applied their vigour to creating a Jewish Museum wherein ritual objects could be saved from destruction and kept for future generations. Thus, in 1906 Prague’s Jewish Museum began with a modest collection. Today, it is celebrating its centenary with an exhibit here entitled Defying the Beast (until 1 Oct). The museum is closed on Jewish holidays too. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 30/15Kč. ha 1, Alšovo nábř. 12, MStaromětská, tel. 227 05 92 05, www.galerierudolfinum.cz. Commissioned as concert halls and exhibition space and named after the Austrian Prince Royal who attended the opening in 1885, this is now home to the Czech Philharmonic and an exhibition space. With no permanent collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/50Kč. U tel. 222 22 00 82, www.nm.cz. Classical appreciation goes high tech. When you point the special laser conductor’s baton at music stands in this museum, excerpts from Smetana’s works come to life. Bedřich Smetana was a Czech symphonic poet, whose masterpiece was the nationalistic My Fatherland, which includes a musical ode to the Vltava. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 40/20Kč. Praha 1, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaromětská, tel. 222 32 76 77, www.citygalleryprague.cz. The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years behind a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbly restored and now houses commendable art exhibitions run by the City Gallery of Prague. QOpen 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 90/50/20Kč. 88 93 61. Medieval torture instruments from all parts of Europe. Take the kids to show them how nice you actually are. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 120/100Kč. WHAT TO SEE 1, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. 283 85 16 14, www.citygalleryprague.cz. A grand 17th century summer palace built for Count Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens littered with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situated here to be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian bridge, but be warned it is no short walk to the closest tram stop once you start. Jean-Baptiste Mathey designed the palace, which Šternberg spared no expense on. Its most striking feature is the external double staircase ornamented by statues of Titanic struggles with Olympian gods. The interior is no less impressive with magnificent vaulted ceilings, paintings, sculptures, murals and frescoes - especially the giant, florid tribute to a Hapsburg victory in the Grand Hall. After major reconstruction of the house and garden in 1998, the Chateau became an annex of the City Gallery, housing a collection of Baroque glass and a collection of 19th century Czech paintings. Troja was hard hit in the 2002 floods, but the gardens and house are back in their former glory. From the metro, hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská or bus 112 to the Zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč, gardens free. Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. 224 30 11 11, www.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist Veletržní Palace houses the National Gallery’s collection of modern and contemporary art, including works by Klimt and Frank Gehry. The building is so big that they split entrance fees by how many of its three floors you wish to visit. Tram N°5,12,17 to Veletržní. The space also hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 300Kč. 77 National Museum (Národní muzeum) F-4, Tr oja Chateau Praha Victims of Communism Memorial A-4, Újezd tram stop. Near the funicular railway station and opposi te the Újezd tram stop, there is a controversial memorial to th e victims of communism. A group of statues by Olbram Zoubek emerge into totality as they walk, or are at various stages of destruction, depending how you look at it. Why are they controversial? Other ar tists say they are kitschy, while feminists are angr y because all the figures are male and they (quite rightly) claim women were persecuted under the communists regime too. The memorial was damaged by two bomb attacks in late 2003. Industrial tourism Gas Museum Praha 4, U plynárny 44, tel. 267 17 24 82. The Gas Museum is located in one of the historic technological buildings of the Michle gasworks, built from 1925-1927. This technical museum acquaints visitors with the history and development of the gas industry in the world and in the Czech Republic, from its very beginnings to the present day. Tram N°11 to Plynárna Michle. Q Open by appointment only. Admission free. 19 14 02, www.staropramen.cz/centrum. Hour-long tours of one of Prague’s most famous brews are available daily. The pub in the brewery is definitely worth a stop for the sheer freshness of the beer and has a selection of nine brews, the best and most uncommonly available being Staropramen Yeast and the Millenium. Q Admission 100Kč. Tours by appointment only. Staropramen Brewery Praha 5, Nádražní 84, tel. 257 Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) E-2, Excursions Glasswork Moser Karlovy Vary, Kpt. Jaroše 19, tel. 353 41 61 36/353 44 96 19, www.moser-glass.com. Men blowing into tubes and going very red in the face in Czech, English, German or Russian. Very impressive and an excellent idea to keep warm as a winter trip. Q Museum open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 17:30, Sat 9:00 - 15:00. 50Kč to glassworks, entrance to museum is free. tel. 481 52 81 41-2, www.sklarnaharrachov.cz. Having been established in 1712, this is the second-oldest glassworks in the Czech Republic. Most of the original equipment is still present and used for production, including a 100-year-old cutting shop. The tour of the factory takes about an hour and guides in English, German or Polish are available. There is also a museum, a brewery and accomodation. QOpen 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 100/80Kč. tel. 359 57 81 11, www.janbecher.cz. Tour the factory where they make this peculiar Czech speciality by steeping sacks of herb mixtures in alcohol and then transferring the result to age in huge oak barrels. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 100Kč. Junior Prague Letná park MHradčanská. Fabulous enclosed playground in the park. Fun and games galore. It is found near the rear of the gardens, by the playing fields facing Sparta Praha football stadium. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Mirror Labyrinth (Zrcadlové bludiště) A-4, Praha 1, Petřínské sady, tel. 257 31 52 12. Right next to the Petřín Tower is a hall of mirrors - you may even get your kids to come in if the ice cream vendors haven’t caught their eye first. March into the mini-castle to see how you would look if you were short and squat or tall and skinny. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 10 - 30Kč. Planetarium Praha 7, Královská obora 233, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. 233 37 64 52, www.planetarium.cz. Prague’s planetarium, opened in 1960, is the largest in the Czech Republic and one of the largest in the world. Its astronomical dome can accommodate 250 people and it houses three projectors in one building. Go to see shows of the stars (the astronomical kind) as well as the permanent exhibition. Q Admission 40 - 240Kč. Glassworks N & S Harrachov (North Bohemia), Rudolf inum D-2, Pra- Veletržní Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha 7, Jan Becher Muzeum Karlovy Vary, T.G. Masaryka 57, Curiosities Dancing Fountains (Křižíkova Fontána) Praha 7, Průmyslový palác (Výstaviště), tel. 220 10 32 80, www. krizikovafontana.cz. Water and lights accompanied by music (from Carmina Burana to Queen) and on occasion, people. This is actually far more enthralling than it sounds - really. Smetana Museum C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 1, Stone Bell House (Dům u kammenného zvonu) E-3, Torture Museum B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 21, tel. 603 GDR camping ground A-2, Praha 1, Vlašská 19 (German Embassy), MMalostranská. In the summer of 1989, thousands of East Germans on holiday in Prague decided that they would rather not go home. They climbed into the garden of the West German embassy, pitched their tents and were a major embarrasment to the GDR authorities. They were eventually allowed to leave on special trains bound for West Germany and abandoned their East German cars. In honour of their flight, a painted Trabant on giant legs was made by Czech artist David Černý. To catch a glimpse of the statue in the embassy grounds, carry on uphill past the embassy and turn left into the small park. Malá Strana, Velkopřevoské nám.. Opposite the French embassy is the Lennon Wall. During the communist era it was here that revolutionaries daubed anti-government slogans thereby running the risk of arrest. Today the wall is covered with graffiti - poems and words of peace written by millions of visitors from around the world. Rückl Crystal Nižbor 141, tel. 311 69 61 11, fax 311 69 35 10, www.ruckl-crystal.cz. Located in Nižbor, south-west of Prague, the 45 minute tour introduces the whole range of techniques from initial creation to final decoration. QOpen 09:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 100/70Kč. Royal Glassworks Doksy, Panská 158, tel. 602 32 39 22, www.royal-glassworks.cz. Visit the glass furnaces situated in North Bohemia. QOpen 08:00 - 15:30. Admission: 1,500Kč for 5-8 persons. menta 869, tel. 800 16 06 06/326 81 11 11, www. skoda-auto.cz. Here you can visit the folks making the car of ‘pity’ (which in a way is the translation both in English and literally in Czech) if you are 15 years or older. At the same location there is a large museum full of old bangers from the beginining of the twentieth century onwards. Call in advance to visit the production facility. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 36Kč. Interpretor 100Kč/person. Škoda Auto Muzeum Mladá Boleslav, Václava Kle- Seaworld Praha 7, Výstaviště, MHolešovice, tel. 220 10 33 05, www.morsky-svet.cz. A loop audio tape of tidal wash envelops Prague’s little known aquarium, Mořský Svět. The suspended manta ray may be huge, but the tanks are small although well stocked with tropical and fresh water fish. One tank has, we presume in honour of Finding Nemo, clown fish and a tang. Deadly but beautiful scorpion and turkey fish languish looking like fully sailed galleons, and soft corals billow in the current. It’s not huge, but makes an interesting detour. Signs are Czech only. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. 120/70Kč. 6, tel. 224 37 22 94, www.muzeumhracek.cz. The unfortunate thing about most toy museums is that children tend not to enjoy them. For the most part, the experience is too frustrating because all the cool toys are kept just out of reach by a pane of glass. However, all is not lost; the second floor has switches at children’s level which make the displays of stuffed animals jostle about. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Admission 20 - 40Kč. Toy Museum (Museum hraček) B-1, Praha 1, Jiřská Lennon Wall B-3, Praha 1, Transport Museum Praha 6, Patočkova 4, MHradcanská, tel. 296 12 49 00, www.dp-praha.cz/en/hist-muz.htm. See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings, maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the castle and Václavské náměsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public holidays only 09:00 - 17:00. Prague In Your Pocket Velkopopovický Kozel Brewery Velké Popovice, Ringhofferova 1, tel. 323 68 31 11, w w w.beerkozel.cz. The exper ts from the Kozel brewer y conduct tours of their premises, situated 14km from Prague. Unfor tunately though it is only in Czech. Perhaps it is easier to just find a pub that ser ves it here in the city. Q Tour 60/30Kč. www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 78 WHAT TO SEE Landmarks Újezd tram stop. The funicular runs up Petřin Hill providing beautiful views of Prague and the castle. There are two restaurants sitting at the half-way point - there is a station there. Use regular 20Kč tickets. Trams run at 15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20. WHAT TO SEE Eiffel Tower, affording great views of the city. The building was completed in May 20, 1891. An alternative route to the castle is to ride the funky funicular up Petřín Hill and walk pass the tower across to the castle area. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Open Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 50/40/10Kč. 79 Funicular Railway A-4, Gestapo HQ I-4, Praha 1, Politických věznů 20. This The Dancing House (Tančící dům) G-5, Praha 2, Rašínovo nábř. 80. Frank Gehry’s design for this building was inspired by the dancing team Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire. Built in 1996, this structure more than cuts a swathe among the Austrian-Hungarian terrace blocks that make up most of Prague. Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. 267 00 57 78, fax 222 72 40 14, w w w.tower.cz. This huge silver tower with funnylooking boxes attached to it was built between 1985 and 1992. Swift lifts whisk you to a fantastic panorama of the city, then descend a few floors to dine whilst contemplatin g th e in tricacies of vertigo. The scary black babies crawling all over the tower are an art installation by David Černy that became permanent. And now the tower is lit up in rather fetching hues of pink and purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Admission 150/75Kč. Kampa Park G-4, Kampa Island. Featuring a well-equipped children’s playground, Kampa Park is caressed by water on all sides thanks to the millstream known as the Devil’s Stream. The park is notable for its serenity in the midst of the centre, and is popular with couples, the local and expat hippy population, as well as families enjoying the playground. You can also feed the ducks or visit one of the cafés. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Letná , MHradčanská. Massive park high atop the Vltava and pinpointed by the often-static metronome where once a massive statue of Joe Stalin stood. Biking/skating paths galore, skateboarders, playing fields, tennis courts, kids playground, beer garden and more. Fabulous outdoor spot. Ostrov Štvanice J-2, Praha 7. The largest island in the Prague stretch of the Vltava is occupied by the oldest ice hockey stadium in Prague, a tennis stadium, a skate park and has outdoor film screenings in the summer. Petřín A-3/4, . With stunning views of the city and a choice of gardens and trails to explore, Petřín is packed with activites or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a mirror hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church and Prague’s lovers enjoying ... ah, the view. sombre black building is now the headquarters of the Czech Trade Office, but between 1939-1945 this was the most feared buildings in the city. Jews and Czechs alike were brought here and interrogated. In one particular incident on Nov 24, 1939 the Gestapo executed 120 students accused of anti-Nazi plotting. Their deaths are commemorated by a small statue on the corner of the building. TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Additional highlights include the Gorilla Pavilion and African Jungle. Definitely the place to come to if you have little ones in tow - there’s an excellent petting zoo and kids play area. A train ride through the zoo, a chair lift ride above the zoo or wagon-like vehicles for the kids are available for tired tootsies. Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good visit, even on warm days. The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 hectares and is home to nearly 5,000 animals. Concession stands shockingly don’t jack up the prices, so an entire day can easily be spent here. Take bus N°112 from metro station Nádraží Holešovice or even stretch your legs further and walk across the Vltava River via the footbridge from Stromovka park. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. March 09:00-17:00, Apr, May, Sep, Oct - 09:00-18:00, Jun, Jul, Aug- 09:00-19:00, Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb - 09:00-16:00 Admission 150/100Kč. TA6ULBKC Walking & Bike Tours City Bike F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská 5, tel. 776 18 02 84, www.pragueonline.cz/citybike. Explore the city by bicycle with the cool dudes at City Bike. Organised tours (450Kč) following two prescribed routes leave from their location daily at 10:00, 14:00 and sunset last 2-3 hours. Rentals are available too. Closes 31 Oct. City Walks , tel. 608 20 09 12/222 24 45 31, www. praguer.com. For 450Kč you can take the four hour Insider Tour of the city including Staroměstská, Nové Město, Josefov, Malá Strana and Prague Castle. The tour also provides complimentary refreshments and a ride on the funicular. Tours begin daily at the statue at the top of Václavské nám. at 09:45 and 13:30. Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. 281 91 76 42/603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz. These cool cats will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000Kč, less if you are a student, and introduce you to various aspects of Prague. The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical Clock at the blue umbrella. Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1, tel. 222 22 08 79, www.klementinum.com. The Klementinum offers a little something for everyone: Beautiful views from the astronomical tower; Baroque architecture in the library hall and classical musical concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The building dates back to 1232 and currently houses the National Library, as well as 12 hard to find sundials. Guided tours are held daily. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. MNám. Míru. In Czech this means Peace Square and it is dominated by a soaring twotower basilica, the neo-gothic Saint Ludmila Church (Kostel sv. Ludmil y). This b eau ti ful church was constructed from 1888 to 1893 and bears the creati ve power of many renowned artists, including sculptor Josef Václav Myslbek, who also fashioned the statue of St. Wenceslas. Ludmila (860 - 921) was born in Mělník and baptised, probably by St. Methodius, in 871. After her husband died their son assumed the throne and had two sons with his pagan wife Drahomíra; Boleslav and Wenceslas, the latter later to become the patron saint of the Czech Republic. Ludmila was strangled at the hand or the behest of Drahomíra who resented her meddling with the budding Christian, Wenceslas. She is celebrated on 16 September and is patron to, among others, converts, widows and those with problematic in-laws… Náměstí Míru (green line A) is the deepest of Prague’s metro stations and as such has one of the longest escalators in Europe - 87m long with a vertical span of 43m - without walking, it takes over 2 minutes to ascend/descend. The park hosts many festivals including the late September burčák festival and the Christmas market. The square has an almost starring role in the 2006 remake of cult horror classic, The Omen. Náměstí Míru J-5/6, , Parks & Gardens 7, Nádvorní 134, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. 234 14 81 11, www.botgarden.cz. An outdoor section with vineyard, chapel, bonsai, a Japanese Zen garden, greenhouses and wonderful views of the city. A little further up the hill is the Fata Morgana greenhouse exhibiting desert, high sierra and tropical plants in a realistic setting. Residents include butterflies, moths, frogs and greenery galore. Bus N°112 from the metro station. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Fata Morgana closed Mon. Admission 40Kč, Fata Morgana 90 Kč. A beautiful secluded park behind the castle that doesn’t allow dogs and therefore remains clean. A children’s playground is the predominant factor here, but shaded benches and even a swing love seat add to the atmosphere. Quiet and lodged between jungle-ly nature and picturesque terraced houses, this is a lovely place for some time out from the tourist hordes. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Praha 2, Na Slupi 16, MKarlovo nám.. Outside it’s all rockeries, winding paths leading nowhere and benches for contemplation. Inside, the warmth of the glasshouse can get uncomfortable but the musty, moistly lush aroma is alluring. Massive primeval plants, aquariums, orchids, a coffee bush and papayas transport you well into the tropics and carnivorous plants are for sale at the entrance. The Cactus Room is home now to a clone of the Methuselah tree, the world’s oldest documented living organism at 4,789 years old. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 15Kč. Botanical Gardens (Botanická zahrada) Praha Holešovice, tel. 283 85 16 14, www.citygalleryprague. cz. A grand 17th century summer palace built for Count Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens littered with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situated here to be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian bridge, but be warned it is no short walk. Admission 120/60Kč for the gallery inside, gardens free. From the metro, hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. B-1/2, , MMalostranská. The Wallenstein Gardens may have a lot of rules, but the lack of human and canine detritus adds to their beauty. Famous for the peacocks, the cavern-like folly (look for phallic and serpentine motifs) and the biggest fish we’ve seen in a while - ducklings often have to make a sharp exit to avoid being nibbled. An owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore for whiling away sunny afternoons. Look for the secret entrance next to the metro exit.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. G Troja Chateau Praha 7, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží Valdštejnská zahrada Praha Bike E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 24, MStaroměstská, tel. 732 38 88 80, www.prahabike.cz. Two-hour bike tours leave daily at 14:30 and cost 390Kč. Bikes are also for rent (from 190Kč for 2 hrs). Winter and alternative time tours can be arranged. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Dětské Hřiště Praha 1, Nový Svět 10, MHradčanská. Zoo Praha Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 3, MNádraží Charles University Botanical Gardens H-6, Petřín Tower (Petřínská rozhledna) A-4, , MPetřin funicular, tel. 257 32 01 12. At the top of Petřin Hill stands a 60m-high bad copy of th e Holešovice, tel. 296 11 21 11, www.zoopraha.cz. Zoo Praha is a really cool zoo. Following the floods of 2002 (in which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life that was broadcast round the world) many improvements to infrastructure and the animal’s homes have been made. Big ones, like elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted, but don’t miss the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes, parrots, wolves and hyenas. Recent additions have included an Indonesian Jungle and the just opened (04/2008) pavilion for a group of rare Indian crocodiles. Seven young Gavil crocs are now at home here - the only European zoo to house this critically endangered specie. Zoo officials hope they’ll settle in nicely and reproduce. That’s another special aspect of the Zoo Praha - their conservation efforts. The facility was instrumental in preventing the extinction of Przewalski horses in the ‘60’s and hopes to have similar success with the Gavils. Real Tour I-5, , tel. 602 45 94 81, www.walkingtoursprague.com. Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the four-hour, 300Kč Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30 at the horse statue at the top of Václavské nám. The walk includes a break at a pub and ends at the castle. Pick-ups at 12:00 from the Traveller’s Hostel on Dlouhá and the Clown and Bard. Walks on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat only. NB, no tours from 20 - 31 Oct. Velotrixi , www.velotrixi.com. These modern rickshaws are powered by young bilingual men with strong legs – although a small electric motor does kick in to help them up hills. From past successes since launching in Berlin in 1997, velotrixis are now transporting tourists and locals alike in 40 towns in 17 countries and now they are in Prague. These two passenger pseudo-vehicles run 45 minute routes round the tourist areas of town for 600Kč. If you see an empty one, flag him down - short rides are available for a 200Kč minimum - or call free on 800 88 08 41. The drivers have cell phones and will pick you up. It can get bumpy on the cobbles, but it’s a lazy, airy way to see the sights (and get your photo taken). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. October - November 2008 Prague In Your Pocket 80 SHOPPING Books anagram.cz. The owner personally selects all the stock at this excellent bookshop, and he will order any book you need. It also has second-hand books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18. Big Ben F-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5, tel. 224 82 65 65, fax 224 82 65 59, www.bigbenbookshop.com. English-language books only are sold here, with standard guides on Prague, plus several shelves of bestsellers, childrens books, fiction, non-fiction and travel books. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, tel. 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. English books, second-hand books, and magazines, internet access, café and restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A Kiwi H-4, Praha 1, Jungmannova 23, tel. 224 94 84 55, www.kiwick.cz. Good collection of maps and foreignlanguage travel guides (all titles are online too); beware that some books are not the latest edition. If you get inspired, there’s an in-house travel agent. Knihkupectví Týnská E-3, Praha 1, Týnská 6, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 82 18 07, www.knihytynska. cz. A small selection of English language titles, good arty postcards, and a wealth of Czech books – fun to spot the title of your favourite book in translation. Attached to a café. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Palác Knih Luxor F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 41, tel. 221 11 13 64, www.neoluxor.cz. Large shop with a good selection of foreign-language books downstairs. The 28. Října 7 shop has a good collection of translations from Czech upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at (E-4) 28. Října 7 and (F-3) Celetná 34. A Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymska 12, MNám. Míru, tel. 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon plus café. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at Praha 1, U Luzickeho seminare 10. Tel. 257 53 18 94. Open 11:00 - 21:00. BUSINESS DIRECTORY 01, www.dorotheum.cz. An auction house for all sorts of art and design objects. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Galerie 22 Praha 3, Husitská 22, tel. 222 71 76 33, fax 222 71 65 38, www.galerie22.sf.cz. Wide selection of restored antique furniture. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Jewish Art Gallery D-2, Praha 1, Maiselova 7, tel. 602 38 61 93, www.jewishgallery.cz. Sumptuous oil paintings from Michael Slutsker. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A Parnas - Viktor Safonkin E-2, Praha 1, Jáchymova 2/26, tel. 224 23 94 76, www.eurosurrealism.com. European surrealism and symbolism. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A U Prstenu D-3, Praha 1, Jilská 14, tel. 224 22 28 64, www.uprstenu.cz. Sale and exhibition of many disciplines from contemporary artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A 81 Dorotheum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 2, tel. 224 22 20 Banks 18:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Commerzbank J-6, Praha 2, Jugoslávská 1, tel. 221 19 31 11, fax 221 193 699, www.commerzbank.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Wed 08:30 - 19:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Česká spořitelna F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 26, tel. 224 42 26 86/800 20 72 07, fax 224 23 93 28, www.csas.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ČSOB Československá obchodní banka F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 14, tel. 261 35 11 11/800 30 03 00, fax 224 22 50 49, info@csob.cz, www.csob.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. GE Capital Bank Praha 4, Vyskočilova 1422/1a, tel. 224 44 36 36/800 10 30 60, www.gecb.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KB Komerční banka F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 33, tel. 222 43 21 11, www.kb.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisenbank I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 38, tel. 221 14 12 61, www.rb.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Anagram F-2, Praha 1, Týn 4, tel. 224 89 57 37, www. Citibank E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 24, tel. 233 06 23 55, fax 233 06 23 56, www.citibank.cz. QOpen 09:00 - Orion J-5, Praha 5, Holečkova 31, tel. 257 31 45 11, fax 257 31 01 26, info@orionreal.cz, www.orionreal.cz. Commercial and residential real estate. English and German speaking staff. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Professionals I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 93 46 80, fax 224 93 49 82, info@professionals.cz, www.professionals.cz. Established in 1993, Professionals Real Estate Agency offers a full range of real estate consultancy services within Prague and surrounding areas. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Foreign press & Websites tel. 234 07 13 70, fax 234 07 13 77, cbw@cbw.cz, www. cbw.cz. Business weekly, published each Monday. expats.cz , www.expats.cz. Prague’s largest and evergrowing online community, an invaluable resource for finding any thing, any where at any time. Especially good for finding a place to live, a job and people to drink with. Fleet Sheet Praha 1, Opletalova 41, tel. 221 00 43 15, fax 224 22 15 80, info@fleet.cz, www.fleet.cz. A rundown of the day’s major business and political stories from the Czech press. Prague Daily Monitor , www.praguemonitor.com. A daily summary with links to Czech news plus links to other interesting cool sites. provokator.org , www.provokator.org. Cool online and print articles, events, listings and anarchism... The New Presence D-4, Národní 11, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 07 56 00, www.new-presence.cz. Czech and European political and cultural affairs. Published quarterly. The Prague Post I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 20, tel. 296 33 44 00/296 33 44 09, fax 296 33 44 50, info@ praguepost.cz, www.praguepost.cz. Longest serving weekly English language newspaper. Czech Business Weekly E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 13, Shopping centres tel. 221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz. All the right shops and some fine extras in this larger-than-it-appears centre. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Myslbek F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 21, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 23 95 50, www.myslbek.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30. Nový Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. 257 28 41 11, info@novysmichovoc.cz. Home to Carrefour and more. The games arcade is fabulous and Palace Cinemas are on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Palác Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 151, MFlóra, tel. 255 74 17 00, www.palacflora.cz. New and very chic shopping centre, with over 120 shops, as well as restaurants, cafés, a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre. All in the centre of Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Palladium nám. Republicky 1, Mnám. Republicky, tel. 225 770 250, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Prague’s newest and brightest mall. What used to be an army barracks is now home to a huge variety of shops. A gourmet floor and lots of restaurants means you could easily lose a day amidst the 5 floors of climate-controlled amusement. QOpen 7:00 - 22:00. Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 45 14 00, www.slovanskydum.cz. High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo restaurant attract the right people at this central shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Černá růže F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek, Chambers of commerce American Chamber of Commerce E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, tel. 222 32 94 30, fax 222 32 94 33, amcham@ amcham.cz, www.amcham.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. British Chamber of Commerce K-3, Praha 8, Pobřežní 3, tel. 224 83 51 61, fax 224 83 51 62, britcham@ britcham.cz, www.britcham.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Czech - Canadian Chamber of Commerce F-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel./fax 225 00 03 45, info@ gocanada.cz, www.gocanada.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Economic Chamber of the Czech Republic K-4, Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel. 296 64 61 11, fax 296 64 62 21, info@komora.cz, www.komora.cz. QOpen 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Netherlands Chamber of Commerce J-5, Praha 5, Nádražní 25, tel. 224 22 23 36/257 47 37 40, fax 257 47 37 44, www.nlchamber.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Department stores Debenhams F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, tel. 221 01 50 57, www.debenhams.cz. The English department store has made its mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A Kotva F-2, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 8, tel. 224 80 11 11, www.od-kotva.cz. A variety of well-priced shops and services, and a special area for children, all in the ugliest building in central Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AL Marks & Spencer Václavské nám. 36, MMuzeum, tel. 224 237 503, marksandspencer.com. One of the UK’s most well-known stores. It’s all here: the clothes; the food; the housewares. QOpen 9:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Tesco D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 00 31 11, www.tesco-shop.cz. Britain’s best store with a supermarket in the basement. Delivery service is also available, check the website for details. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Supermarket open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Real estate AAA BYTY.CZ akciová společnost Václavské náměstí 62, MMuzeum, tel. 226 060 606/774 333 010, info@aaabyty.cz, www.aaabyty.cz. AAABYTY.cz. is a full service real estate company and can assist you with buying, renting or selling a flat, house, office and even land. They are experts with many additional resources in-house, like help with securing financing and legal and tax assistance. Plus, they have offices across the country so you will find them especially helpful if you’re not looking in Prague. Continental Reality J-6, Praha 2, nám. Míru 15, tel. 222 51 71 05, fax 222 51 70 78, realty@continental. cz, www.continental.cz. A 10 person company that deals with both commercial and residential real estate. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. European Reality E-4, Praha 1, Václavské Nám. 2 (Euro Palác), MMůstek, tel. 222 21 21 64/603 20 16 76, www.europeanreality.com. English letting company for all budgets - give them a call and get some friendly advice and hopefully the abode of your choice. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. October - November 2008 Speciality shops de.facto E-4, Praha 1, Perlová 6, MMůstek, tel. 224 23 38 15, www.defakto.cz. Beautifully designed objets, furniture, gifts, kitchenware, soft furnishings and oddities at this excellent shop which has a tinge of the Ikea style and more but without the schlep out to Zličin. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Naoko I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 24, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 25 67, www.naoko.cz. Excellent selection of design products that you may not really need, but which look fantastic. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Qubus F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 3, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 31 51, www.qubus.cz. Fabulous design shop off Dlouhá selling hip goods from bizarre clocks to ceramic Wellington boots as vases. They are also the Czech distributor of funky-ass Lomo cameras. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Galleries Art Deco Galerie E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 21, tel. 224 22 30 76. Art gallery offering 1920s and 30s applied arts items. Glass, porcelain, clothing, accessories, lighting, furniture, clock and other curiosities. QOpen 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Prague In Your Pocket 82 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Football Horákové 98, tel. 220 57 03 23, www.sparta.cz. Traditionally top of the league so therefore in money-spinning Europe. They have quite a skinhead, hooligan following so be aware, especially at home games. Q Tickets from 100Kč. Bohemians 1905 (Ďolíček stadión) Praha 10, Vršovická 31, tel. 245 00 50 14, www.fc-bohemians. cz. Bohemians 1905, the once small struggling club nicknamed the kangaroos has now rejoined the big boys in the Gambrinus liga. In 1983, green and white Bohemians won the Czech league and got to the semis of UEFA but this season has not gone well for Bohemians 1905 and they currently sit fourteenth in the league. The fans here are dedicated but well behaved and when the team was once relegated for insolvency, the fans paid off half the debt. The kangaroo logo and epithet stems from a 1927 tour of Australia when the team was given two kangaroos - they were donated to the Zoo.Q Tickets from 100Kč. FK Viktoria Žižkov (Stadión Viktorky) Praha 3, Seifertova, tel. 222 71 25 03, www.fkvz.cz. Red and white local heroes Viktoria Žižkov are doing slightly better than the Bohemians and currently sit at number twelve in the Gambrinus liga. Žižkov last won the Czech league in 1928 but famously knocked Rangers out of UEFA in 2002. Q Tickets 80 - 100Kč. SK Slávia Praha (Stadión Eden) Praha 10, Vladivostocká 10, tel. 257 21 32 90, vstupenky@slavia. cz,, www.slavia.cz. Slávia is looking to have a winner of a season in their new digs. Their new stadium, Stadión Eden is now open, go check it out.Q Take bus 217 to the stadium from either Dejvicka or Anděl metro stations, or bus 176 from Karlovo nám. Tickets from 100Kč. LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY …a life changing expe ence 83 AC Sparta Praha (AXA Aréna) H-1, Praha 7, Milady Golden Clean Praha 4, Přímětická 1, tel. 241 73 19 94/603 43 33 52, www.goldenclean.cz. More than 90 shops in the city with pick up/delivery service, dry-cleaning, laundry, alternations and shoe repair. QOpen 06:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Laundry Kings Praha 6, Dejvická 16, tel. 233 34 37 43, http://laundry.czweb.org. Service washes or CNN whilst you DIY. Q Open 24hrs. Laundry Land F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 12 (Pasáž Černá Růže), tel. 221 01 46 32/777 33 34 66, www. laundryland.cz. Self and full services, laudromats, dry cleaning, alternation services. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Aslo at Praha 2, Pavilion, Vinohradská 50, open 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00; Praha 2, Londýnská 71, open 08:00 - 22:00 & Zlatý Anděl, Praha 5, Plzeňská 344, pen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. A MVM Express I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 25, tel. 296 23 02 15, www.mvmexpress.cz. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Prague Cyber Laudromat J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 14, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 51 01 80, www.volny.cz/laundromat. Full and self service available plus dry cleaning, and you can check your mail while you wait for 30 Kč/15mins. Dry cleaning and a book swap too. Q Washers and dryers 70Kč each. Prague Massage Ayuma Praha 1, Haštalská 27, tel. 224 82 60 77, info@ ayuma.cz, www.ayuma.cz. Ayurveda is more than just a massage; it’s a lifestyle treatment. Let the experts at Ayuma renew you with their menu of refreshing therapies including a facial massage, full body massage, foot reflexology massage or a full body oil treatment. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. – – www.tantraspa.cz Hairdressing James Hair E-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 9, tel. 224 82 73 73/602 17 10 16, james@jameshair.cz, www. jameshair.cz. Upmarket bi-lingual hairdressers responsible for the president’s wife’s hairdo. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Joshua K-6, Praha 10, Slovenská 2, tel. 222 52 01 26/604 81 46 73, fax 222 51 46 53, info@joshua.cz, www.joshua.cz. Take a walk on the wilder side of the coiffure industry. We don’t advise visiting on a whim or when inebriated. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Salon Gaudí F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36 (3rd Floor), MMůstek, tel. 224 24 71 98/604 26 52 63, www.gaudistudio.cz. The one stop conglomerate that is OASIS City now offers styling and more from Salon Gaudí, who also operate in Moscow, London, Paris and Geneva. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00; Sundays by appointment only. Toni & Guy Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, tel. 222 32 00 56/222 32 00 57, fax 222 32 33 59, info@toniandguy.cz, www. toniandguy.cz. Cut and blow dry will set you back 800 1150Kč depending on who on their power ladder is doing the snipping. For the budget conscious, student cuts are 200Kč and colour is 450Kč. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Tribo I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, tel. 224 81 48 00/603 46 64 66, info@tribo.cz, www.tribo.cz. Hair studio, tattoos and piercing. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. NEW Mantra Spa Praha 1, Břehová 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 733 NEW MANTRA THAI MASSAGE OASIS Břehová 1 Prague 1 - Old Town (next to Jewish Cemetery) tel: +420 733 194 221 www.mantraspa.cz Laundry & Dry cleaning Clean Touch E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 20, tel. 224 81 42 99/602 681 069, cleantouch@iol.cz. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at I-5, Praha 2, Na Rybníčku 1329/5. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Prague In Your Pocket 10% DISCOUNT WITH THIS AD 19 42 21, www.mantraspa.cz. So they say they want to spoil you…who can resist such a proposition? You won’t be able to resist much following one of Mantra’s Thai massages. Opt for one with aromatic oils to help boost your energy levels. Aromatherapy, Swedish massage and a slimming massage are just a few of the other relaxing and refreshing options. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Mystic Buddha F-2, Dlouhá 39, tel. 221 77 95 10, www.mysticbuddha.cz. Emphasis is on balance and harmony. Individual rooms provide extra privacy and English speakers make life easier for any instructions. In addition to Thai massage, they offer classic massage, cosmetic treatments, a hair salon, manicures and pedicures. Try the hot stones. One hour Thai massage is 950Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Winter hours: 9:00-21:00 Nam Jai Thai Massage D-2, Kaprova 11, tel. 222 32 87 47, www.namjai.cz. Here you’ll get an authentic, stretching, vertebrae popping session of traditional Wat Pho massage. Back & Head, Foot and oil massages are also available. One hour Thai massage 700Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Sabai Na Příkope 22, tel. 221 45 11 80, www.sabai.cz. By far the smartest and most expensive of the Thai massage options here, but is it worth it? Well, yes it is. Quiet and private - even the foot massage rooms are individual. Excellent staff, English spoken and relaxed ambience. Traditional Thai 990Kč for one hour. Reservations recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Sawasdee Foot Massage Rytiřská 19, tel. 224 22 61 05. From the tinkling fountain to the comfy chairs and the characteristic menthol smell, this place looks authentic but unfortunately the foot massage is not. Pain and Porn are just two of the masseuses who might work on you, but ours was Thai Massage Lite. We kept waiting for it to kick in to no avail. 600Kč for a lacklustre Thai massage. Relaxing, yes, but not therapeutic. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. info@tantraspa.cz, www.tantraspa.cz. A unique experience for those looking to relax and perhaps expand their sexual energy. A tantra massage is one that combines a classic massage with elements of the tantra. The masseur’s attentive and respectful touch invites you to relax, helps to increase the body’s sensitivity and enhances life energy and joy. Bookings are by appointment only. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00. Tawan - Thai massages Náměstí Curieových 100, tel. 234 614 163/721 731 401, hotelpresident@tawan.cz, www. tawan.cz. Tawan has a variety of treatments including a classic Thai massage, an aroma oil massage and a detox massage, plus body treatments like peelings and wraps. Their most popular therapies use hot herbal packs. Some of their specials are interesting too, like the one-and-a-half hour foot and hand massage, or the Coconut Tantra Spa Praha 10, 28.pluku 18, tel. 777 85 88 64, n á b ř e ž í 7, 1 5 0 0 0 Praha 5, tel: +420 724 363 738, +420 257 317 326, www.miraclespa.cz, managermiracle@seznam.cz. One of the top salons in Prague which offers a big variety of beauty and body treatments including LPG Systems Lipomassage (the secret to a slimmer body), Liftmassage (for younger looking skin, facelifting), laser hair removal, facial treatments and body massages, hot stone massages, manicures and pedicures. The Miracle beauty and spa salon staff is pleasant and willing to prepare individual procedures to your wish! We are looking forward to your visit! Miracle Beauty and Spa Salon Janáčkovo October - November 2008 84 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Taxis GETTING AROUND Travel agencies 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TBS I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 13, tel. 222 51 23 05, www. tbs.cz. Specialised in business and congress travel. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 85 AAA - Radiotaxi, tel. 222 33 32 22, www.aaa.radiotaxi. Plastic and cosmetic surgery The top surgeons carrying out plastic and cosmetic surgery in GynCentrum have experience working in Great Britain, Australia and Germany. Dr. Krejča has a licence to carry out this practice also in Great Britain. cz. The most reputable company in town. Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires preregistration. Prague Airport Transfers, tel. 777 77 72 37, www. prague-airport-transfers.co.uk. Convenient transport services. English speaking drivers who not only will get you where you need to be, but provide you with a map, visitor information and a dining guide. Excellent prices and easy online booking. Euroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkám 23, tel. 271 09 08 31, fax 271 75 02 74, www.euroagentur.cz. QOpen Face surgery of upper and lower eyelids lower eyelids and removal of bags below the eyes eyebrow lift removal of skin folds and nose reshaping lip surgery chin liposuction facelifting including SMASS ear surgery easing of deep wrinkles or application of collagen Chest and stomach breast reduction breast uplift breast enlargement replacement of breast implants tummy tuck, tummy tuck and liposuction liposuction Airline offices AeroSvit D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, tel. 224 24 88 28, 776 676 709, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines (ČSA) I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 5, tel. 239 00 70 07, fax 224 31 42 73, www.czech-airlines.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Airport office tel. 220 11 11 11, open 24hrs. easyJet Letiště Ruzyně, tel. 0044 87 06 00 00 00, www.easyjet.com. Direct low cost flights to Basel, Dortmund, Bristol, London Gatwick & Stanstead, Newcastle and Nottingham. SkyEurope Praha 6, K letišti 1017, tel. 246 09 60 96, w w w.skyeurope.com. Destinations (some seasonal) from Prague to Paris, Nice, Amsterdam, Rome, Naples, Milan, Barcelona, plus many in and out of Slovakia & Poland. New winter flights from Prague to Grenoble & Turin. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Smar t Wings Praha 6, K letišti 1068/30, tel. 900 16 65 65, w w w.smar twings.net. Not so low cost fligh ts to 19 European ci ties in Holland, Belgium, Denmark, Spain, I tal y, France, Hun gar y, Greece, C yprus and Bul garia. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Car rental Hotel), tel. 296 63 09 95, fax 222 31 95 95, www.budget. cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport office, tel. 220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation centre tel. 235 32 57 13. A Europcar E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 28, tel. 224 81 12 90, fax 224 81 00 39, www.europcar.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport office tel. 235 36 45 31, open 08:00 - 22:00. A Hertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo Nám. 15, tel. 225 34 50 31, fax 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Also at Praha 6, Evropská 15 (Diplomat Hotel), tel. 225 34 50 41, open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun. Airport office tel. 225 34 50 21, open 08:00 - 22:00. National Car Rental Praha 5, Za Opravnou 1, tel. 224 92 37 19, fax 224 91 30 51, www.nationalcar.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. 220 11 45 54, open 08:00 - 22:00, closed Sat & Sun. Sixt J-3, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hilton Hotel), tel. 222 32 49 95, fax 224 84 23 13, www.e-sixt.cz. Book online for some of good rental rates. And check out their even more budget version at www.sixti.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Airport office tel. 220 11 53 46, open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Avis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. 221 85 12 25, fax 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Budget E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curierových 5 (InterContinental Labial corrections Offered procedures include several types of labial correction. Labial surgery Extended labia surgery Enlargement of the outer labia Hymenoplasty Vaginoplasty GynCentrum, spol. s r.o. Hloubětínská 3/13, Prague 9 - Hloubětín tel: + 420 266 610 245, fax: + 420 281 860 576 email: gyncentrum@gyncentrum.cz, www.gyncentrum.cz Dream featuring an aroma massage using coconut oil. They offer gift certificates so you can give the gift of calm. Tawan is located in the Hotel President and they have three other locations; one inside the Holiday Inn Prague Congress Center, another in Prague 1 at Salvátorská 10 and the third at Golf Yacht Prague in Prague 8, U Libenskeho mostu 1.QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 9:00 - 21:00. 450-2190kč. JA Thai Fit Na Poříčí 21, tel. 224 81 18 76, www.thaifit. cz. The aroma of the adjacent Siam Orchid restaurant adds to the ambience of this great place and inspires what to do post massage. Eat. Anyway, the masseuse here was strong and achieved an incredible amount of vertebrae popping, exactly what the neck was in need of. Calm, quiet and recommended. 600Kč for one hour traditional Thai. QOpen 9:00 - 21:00. Thai World Celená 6, tel. 224 81 72 47, www.thaiworld. cz. This used to be the place to go but it seems they are resting on their laurels a tad. The masseuse spent more time massaging with one hand in order to hold open the curtain to see what/who was going on outside. She did notice pain in the shoulder which she applied Tiger Balm to. Good, not great. 599Kč for one hour traditional Thai.QOpen 9:00 - 22:00. Medical centres Canadian Medical Care Praha 6, Veleslavínská 1, tel. 235 36 01 33/724 30 03 01, fax 235 36 46 40, cmc@cmc. praha.cz, www.cmc.praha.cz. 24-hour emergency service tel. 724 30 03 01. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A FinArt - Medico Praha 10, Jakobiho 328, tel. 274 86 73 42/274 86 71 42, www.olt.cz/finart-medico. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. GynCentrum Praha 9, Hloubětínská 13, tel. 266 61 02 45, gyncentrum@gyncentrum.cz, www.gyncentrum.cz. A quiet and welcoming clinic for a variety of cosmetic surgery procedures, GynCentrum offers breast enhancements, Prague In Your Pocket facelifts and liposuction along with treating gynecological ailments. Their personal and professional approach will be welcome, no matter your reason for a visit. Health Centre Prague I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 28, tel. 224 22 00 40, www.doctor-prague.cz. 24-hour emergency service tel. 603 43 38 33/603 48 13 61. Multilingual international staff, all branches of medicine. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A International Medical Services Praha 7, Jankovcova 16, tel. 266 77 37 11/737 28 93 61, www.medicalgroup.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Medicover I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. 3/15, tel. 234 63 01 11, www.medicover.cz. Comprehensive medical care, 24-hour house calls, dental and surgery assistance. English, French, German, Spanish, Russian & Czech speaking staff. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Pediatric Health Centre Prague Praha 4, Ke Spofě 7, tel. 244 40 31 14, www.pediatrie.cz. English-language pre-natal care and classes available. Call ahead. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Tue 15:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Polyclinic D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 075 120, poliklinika@narodni.cz, www.poliklinika. narodni.cz. 25 physicians, all fluent in English (also some German, Russian and French spoken). Preventative care and travel vaccinations, US visa medical, dental, physio, home visits and 24hr emergency coverage. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 24hr emergency, tel. 777 94 22 70. Lab opens at 08:00. A Unicare Praha 6, Na Dlouhém lánu 11, tel. 235 35 65 53/608 10 30 50, fax 235 35 52 02, www.unicare.cz. 24-hour call service. Take tram N°2, 20, & 26 or bus N°116, 131 & 132. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at Průhonice, Kosatcová 420, tel. 267 75 04 27. Open 08:00 - 12:00, Tue, Thu also 14:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wed 18:00 - 20:00. A October - November 2008 86 STREET REGISTER 17. listopadu 28. října Alšovo nábřeží Anenská Anenské Nám. Anežská Bartolomějská Benediktská Besední Betlémská Betlémské Nám. Bílkova Boršov Břehová Břetislavova Celetná Cihelná Čechův most Červená Divadelní Dlouhá Dražického Dražického Nám. Dušní Dvořákovo nábř. E. Krásnohorské Harantova Haštalská Haštalské Nám. Havelská Havelská ulička Havířská Hellichova Hlavsova Hradčanské nám Hradební Hroznová Husova Charvátova D-2 E-4 D-2 D-3 D-3 F-1 D-4 F-2 B-4 D-4 D-4 E-2 D-4 D-1 A-2 F-3 C-2 D-1 E-2 C-4 E-2 B-2 B-2 E-1 D-1 E-2 B-3 F-2 F-2 E-3 E-3 E-3 A-3 E-3 A-1 F-2 B-3 D-3 E-4 Chotkova Jáchymova Jakubská Jalovcová Jánský vršek Jilská Jindřišská Jiřská Josefská K Haštalu Kamzíková Kaprova Karlova Karlův most Karmelitská Karolíny Světlé Klárov Klášterská Konviktská Kosárkovo náb. Kostečná Kozí Kožná Králodvorská Krocínova Křižovnická Křižovnické Nám. Lázeňská Letenská Liliová Linhartská Maiselova Malá Klášterní Malé Nám. Malostranské náb. Malostranské Nám. Maltézské Nám. Mánesův most Mariánské Nám. B-1 E-2 F-3 D-3 A-2 D-3 F-4 B-1 B-2 F-1 E-3 D-2 D-3 C-3 B-3 C-4 C-1 F-1 D-4 D-1 E-2 E-1 E-3 F-3 C-4 D-3 D-3 B-2 B-2 D-3 D-3 D-2 F-1 E-3 B-4 B-2 B-3 C-2 D-3 Martinská Masná Melantrichova Michalská Mikovcova Mikulandská Mikulášská Míšeňská Most Legií Mostecká Na Františku Na Kampě Na Můstku Na Opyši Na Perštýně Na Příkopě Na Rejdišti Na Zábradlí Náb. Ed. Beneše Nám. Curieových Nám. Franze Kafky Nám. J. Palacha Nám. U sv. Jiří Náměstí Republiky Náprstkova Národní Nebovidská Nekázanka Nerudova Nosticova Novotného lávka Olivová Ovocný trh Panská Pařížská Pelclova Perlová Plaská Platnéřská D-4 E-2 E-3 E-3 I-5 D-4 E-3 B-2 C-4 B-2 E-1 B-3 E-4 C-1 D-4 F-3 D-2 C-3 C-1 E-1 E-3 D-2 A-1 F-2 D-3 D-4 B-3 F-3 A-2 B-3 C-3 F-4 F-3 F-4 E-1 B-3 E-4 B-4 D-2 Pod Bruskou Politických vězňů Prašný most Prokopská Provaznická Průchodní Rámová Revoluční Růžová Rybná Rytířská Řásnovka Řetězová Říční Salvátorská Saská Seminářská Senovážná Skořepka Smetanovo náb. Sněmovní Spálená Staré zámecké schody Staroměstské Nám. Stříbrná Šeříková Široká Štefánikův most Štupartská Templová Thunovská Tomášská Tržiště Týnská Týnská ulička U Bruských kasáren U Dobřenských U Lanové dráhy U Lužického sem. C-1 F-4 A-1 B-2 E-3 D-4 F-2 F-2 F-4 F-2 E-4 F-1 D-3 B-4 E-2 B-2 D-3 F-3 D-4 C-4 B-2 D-4 B-1 E-3 D-3 B-4 D-2 F-1 F-2 F-3 A-2 B-2 A-2 F-2 E-2 C-1 D-4 A-4 C-2 U Milosrdných U Obecního domu U Obecního dvora U Plovárny U Prašné brány U Radnice U Sovových mlýnů U Staré školy U Starého hřbitova U Sv. Ducha U Zlaté studně U Železné lávky Uhelný trh Újezd V Cípu V Kolkovně V Kotcích Václavské Nám. Valdštejnská Valdštejnské Nám. Valentinská Vejvodova Veleslavínova Velkopřevorské Nám. Vězeňská Vikářská Vítězná Vlašská Voršilská Všehrdova Za Haštalem Zámecká Zámecké schody Zlatá Zlatá ulička Žatecká Železná E-1 F-3 E-2 D-1 F-3 E-3 B-3 E-2 D-2 E-2 B-1 C-1 E-4 A-4 F-4 E-2 E-4 F-4 C-1 B-1 D-2 D-3 D-2 B-3 E-2 A-1 B-4 A-2 D-4 B-4 F-2 A-2 A-1 D-3 B-1 D-2 E-3 Ordinary operation - Effective from 9.5.2008 BUS 119, 254, AE to Ruzyně Airport BUS 100 to Ruzyně Airport BUS 179 to Ruzyně Airport Metro Changing station Change to ČD trains/S lines Infocentre P+R Parking lot Bus to Ruzyně Airport Funicular to Petřín infoline Prague In Your Pocket 90 INDEX Adagio 60 Adria 20 AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 45 Akát Steak House 54 Akord 45 Akropolis 36, 60 Alexander's 57 Allegro 31 Aloha Wave Lounge 42 Ambassador Casino 49 Ambiente Living 56 Ambiente PastaCaffé 27 Ambiente Pasta Fresca 31 Amigos 59 Amour Hotel Residence 26 Andante 20 Andel's 20 Angel 39 Angelo Hotel 20 Anna 24 Abaton 45 Apart Karee 26 Apollo 24 Appia Residences 26 Apropos 31 Aria 19 Ariana 27 Army Museum 73 Aromi 58 Around Prague Information Centre 72 Astoria 20 Atlantic 24 Au Gourmand 40 Aviation Museum 73 Azteca 54 Back Doors 63 Bambus 42 Banco Casino 49 Banditos 56 Bandol 36 Baráčnická rychta 53 Bar and Books 42 Barceló Praha 20 Barock 42 Bastille 53 Beas 59 Be kara OK! 44 Bella Donna 38 Bellevue 31 Belvedere 24 Best Western Premier Hotel Majestic Plaza 20 Bethlehem Chapel 72 Big Sister 65 Bílá vrána 57 Bio Cafés 27 Blatouch 42 Blind Eye 60 Blue Light Bar 55 Blues Sklep 45 Bohemia 49 Bohemia Bagel 28, 52 Bombay Cocktail Bar 42 Bonante 57 Bordo 60 Botanical Gardens 78 Brasserie La Provence 30 Brasserie M 30 Bredovský dvůr 28 Bresto 40 Budweiser Budvar Restaurant 29 Buffalo Bill's 27 Bugsy's 42 BW Meteor Plaza 20 Café Amsterdam 40 Café Café 40 Café de Paris 53 Café Imperial 40 Café Jungmann 40 Café Louvre 40 Café Pavlač 56 Café Savoy 52 Caffrey's 48 Cantina 54 Carioca 65 Carlton 20 Cartouche 37 Casino de Prague Le Hilton 49 Casino Palais Savarin 49 Casino Panorama 49 Casino President 50 Castle Steps 26 Celebrity Café 36 Celnice 28, 44 Century Casino Millennium 50 Černý slon 32 Casino Duplex 49 Charles Bridge 71 Charles University Botanical Gardens 78 Chateau Rouge 42 Chateau St. Havel 22 Chez Marcel 31 Chudoba 57 Church of Our Lady Victorious 72 Cicala 33 Cigars and Coffee 40 Cihelna Barfly 31 City Bike 79 City Museum 73 City Walks 79 Clarion 24 Claris 24 Clear Head 39 Cloud 9 42 Club 161 65 Club 600 65 Coffee Fellows 40 Coffeeheaven 40 Coloseum 38 Corinthia Panorama 21 Corinthia Towers 19 Corleone 62 Courtyard Marriott Flora 21 Courtyard Marriott Prague Airport 24 Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails 52 Coyotes 42 Cremeria Milano 40 Cross Club 61 Crowne Plaza Prague Castle 21 Cubism Museum 73 Cukrkávalimonáda 52 Czech Folklore 62 Czech Inn 26 Czech Museum of Fine Arts 73 Dahab 37 Dahlia Inn 26 Daily Walks 79 Dancing Fountains 76 dANico 34 Darling Cabaret 66 Decorative Arts Museum 73 Desire Cabaret 66 Dětské Hřiště 78 Dias y Noches 44 Disco People 44 DISK Café 41 Dobrá čajovna 38 Daliborka Tower 70 Duplex 44 Dvořák Museum 73 Ebel 41 El Centro 55 El Emir 37 El Gaucho 27 Élite 21 Elysee 21 Escade 66 Euforia 60 Evropa 24 Extasy Cabaret 66 Face Cafe 41 Ferdinanda 28 First courtyard 70 Flambée 30 Fluidum 58 Follow Me 66 Four Seasons 19 Francouzská restaurace 31 Franz Kafka 39 Fresco Vento 38 Fu Hao 31 Funicular Railway 78 Futura 73 Futurum 63 Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera 73 Galerie La Femme 73 Galerie MIRO 73 Galerie Václava Špály 73 Gallery KusKovu 75 Gas Museum 77 GDR camping ground 76 Gecko 42 George & Dragon 48 Gestapo HQ 78 Giallo Rosa 38 Giovanni 35 Gitanes 52 Glasswork Moser 77 Glassworks N & S 77 Globe 41 Golden Lane 70 Goldfinger's 66 Gott Gallery Restaurant 32 Grand Café Orient 41 Grand Café Praha 41 Grand Hotel Bohemia 19 Grand Hotel Praha 21 Grosseto 59 Grotta 62 Gusto 59 Hacienda Mexicana 37 Hallal Fast Food 38 Hapu 60 Harley's 42 Hergetova Cihelna 54 High Synagogue 74 Hilton Prague 19 Hilton Prague Old Town 19 Historical Museum 75 Historical Pharmacies Exposition 75 Hokkaido 35 Hong Kong 61 Hospoda Lucerna 42 Hotel Absolut 22 Hotel Anděl 24 Hotel Černý slon 22 Hotel Neruda 22 Hotel Páv 24 Hotel Sovereign 22 Hotel Tranzit 24 Hot Pepper's 68 House at the White Unicorn75 Huang He 57 Hungarian Grotto 53 Hybernia 32 Ibis Praha City 24 Ibis Praha Karlín 26 Ibis Praha Smíchov 26 Il Giardino 34 InterContinental Praha 19 Irish Club Prague 61 Jáma 27, 48 Jan Becher Muzeum 77 Jazz Boat 48 Jet Set 63 Jewellery Collection 75 J.J.Murphy's 55 Jewish Museum 74 Joe Café 43 Josef 19 Kafíčko 52 Kafka Museum 75 Kampa Fish 55 Kampa Museum 75 Kampa Park 54, 79 Karavanseráj 37 Karavella 28 Karlín London 41 Karlovy Lázně 44 Káva Káva Káva 62 Kavárna Obecní Dům 41 Kavárna Pavilon 56 King Solomon 36 K+K Hotel Central 22 Klementinum 78 Klub 007 Strahov 63 Klub architektů 39 Klub Lávka 44 Kmotra 38 Kogo 35 Koliba U Pastýřky 57 Kolkovna 29 Korea House 58 Kozička 36, 43 Klausen Synagogue 74 Kuře v hodinkách 57 La Belle Epoque 43 La Boca 27 La Bodega 38 La Bodega Flamenca 61 La Bodeguita del Medio 36 La Cambusa 63 La Casa Argentina 27 La Casa Blů 43 La Creperie 61 La Degustation 32 La Fabrique 44 Langhans Galerie 75 L'Angolo 35 Lapidarium 75 La Rustica 58 Laura Club 68 La Veranda 32 Lavička 58 Legends 50 Leica Gallery 17, 75 Lemon Café 52 Lennon Wall 76 Le Palais 19 Le Saint-Jacques 31 Letenský zámeček 61 Letná 79 Letná park 77 Le Tram 61 Liberty 23 L'Incontro 35 Lokalblok 63 Loreta 72 Lotos Club 68 Louis Armstrong 37, 58 Lucerna Music Bar 44 Lví dvůr 53 M1 44 Macao 31 Mad Bar 55 Made In Japan 35 Magická zahrada 58 Mailsi 59 Maisel Synagogue 74 Malostranská pivnice 55 Maluj Creative Café 56 Malý Buddha 53 Mánes Exhibition Hall 75 Man-na 36 Manni Mini 57 Marco Polo IV 32 Margarita 54 Marriott 19 Martin's Irish Pub 60 Masala 57 Mash Hana 61 Mastné prsty 62 Matylda Botel 35 Mecca 61 Mercure 23 Merlin 60 Metropol Music Cafe 38 Mirage 62 Mirror Labyrinth 77 Miyabi 36 Mlýnec 54 Modrá Růže 23 Molly Malone's 50 Molotow Cocktail Bar 43 Mount Steak 54 Mövenpick 23 Mozaika 58 Mozart Museum 75 Mucha Museum 75 Municipal House 71 Museum of Communism 75 Museum Pension 26 Muzeum Karlova Mostu 75 Na blbým místě 29 Nagoya 62 Náměstí Míru 78 Na Poličce 60 National Museum 76 National Theatre 71 Nebe 44 Neon Club 68 Neptun 31 New Jewish Cemetery 74 NOI 55 Nordica 41 Nostitz 54 Nostress 32 Novoměstský pivovar 28 Novotel Praha City 23 Obyčejný svět 58 O'Che's 50 Old Jewish Cemetery 74 Old Royal Palace 70 Old Town Square 71 Oliva 32 Olympos 57 Orange Moon 39 Osteria De Clara 58 Ostrov Štvanice 79 Ouky Douky 61 Our Lady of Snow 72 Palace Gardens 70 Pálffy Palác 53 Paneria 27 Papas 43 Paris 20 Passion Chocolat 56 Pekelnej Bar 63 Pension Atelier Art 12 26 People Restaurant 32 Perfect 32 Perpetuum 29 Petřín 79 Petřínské Terasy 34 Petřín Tower 78 Pinkas Synagogue 74 Pizzeria U Tučňáků 62 Planetarium 77 Planet Sushi 62 Pool Café 62 Popocafepetl Music Club 55 Praga Sport Café 50 Prague Info 72 Prague Play Pass 73 Prague's Schindler 74 Praha Bike 79 Pravda 33 President 20 Primitiv Pravěk 58 Punto Azul 63 Radisson SAS Alcron 20 Ramada Grand Hotel Symphony 23 Rasoi 31 Real Tour 79 Red Hot & Blues 28 Red Light Praha 69 Reduta 48 Repete 43 Restaurant Babylon 38 Resto Café Patio 33 Retro Music Hall 60 Reykjavík 38 Rickshaw 59 Ridgeback 43 Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) 76 Roca 58 Rock Café 44 Rocky O'Reilly's 50 Roma 37, 59 Roxy 44 Royal Glassworks 77 Rückl Crystal 77 Rudolfinum 76 Rugantino 38 Ruský Salón 59 Rybanaruby 56 Rybí trh 38 Safir 63 Sarah Bernhardt 31 Schwarzenberg Palace 70 Seaworld 77 Second courtyard 70 Seventh Heaven 52 Shakespeare & Sons 56 Shamrock Irish Pub 50 Sherlock's Pub 37, 50 Siam Orchid 39 Sir Toby's 26 Škoda Auto Muzeum 77 Slavia 41 Smetana Museum 76 Solidní nejistota 37, 45 Sonora 59 Sovovy Mlýny 53 Spanish Synagogue 74 Spearmint Casino 50 Sportbar Sparta ve Slavii 50 Starbucks 52 Staropramen Brewery 77 St. Ignatius Church 72 St. Nicholas Café 55 St. Nicholas Church 72 Století 29 Stone Bell House 76 Strahov Monastery 72 Střelecký ostrov 33 Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church 73 Studio 54 45 St. Vitus Cathedral 70 Sternberg Palace 70 St George's Basilica 70 Subway 27 Sudička 60 Sugar's Cabaret 69 Sushi Bar 62 Suterén 33 Svatá Klára 61 Švejk 29 Swank 43 Sweet Paradise 69 Taj Mahal 57 Tandoor 53 Techtle Mechtle 58 Tequila Sunrise 37 T.G.I. Friday's 27 TGI Fridays 62 The Beer Factory 51 The Dancing House 78 The Lions Bar 51 The Pack 51 Tlustá koala 50 Torture Museum 76 Town Hall & Astronomical clock 71 Toy Museum 77 Transport Museum 76 Travellers' Hostel 26 Tretters 43 Trilobit 37, 43 Troja Chateau 76, 79 Tropison cocktail bar 43 TV Tower 34, 78 U Betlémské Kaple 29 U Bílé krávy 57 U Budovce 41 U Bukanýra 45 U Buldoka 63 U Cedru 54 U Černého vola 55 U Červeného páva 29 54 U Císařů U Dvou šálků 38 U Emy Destinnové 33 U Fleků 28 Újezd 55 U Kalicha 28 Ultramarin 43 U Malého Glena 37, 52, 55 53 U Malířů U Maltézských rytířů 53 U Modré růže 29 U Mušketýra 29 U Neklana 57 Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club 48 Universal 33 U Petrské věže 29 28 U Pinkasů U Provaznice 30 U Prstenu 41 U Sádlů 37 U Sadu 37 U Sedmi Švábů 54 U Staré paní 48 U Šuterů 29 U Vodárny 56 U Zavěšenýho kafe 53 U Závoje 31 U Zeleného stromu 30 U Zlatého tygra 50 U Zlaté konvice 30 U Zlaté studně 54 Vagon 45 Valdštejnská zahrada 79 Veg Food 60 Veletržní Palace 76 Velkopopovický Kozel Brewery 77 Velotrixi 79 Velryba 41 Velvet 69 Venue 73 51, 61 Vertigo 45 Vesmírna 41 Victims of Communism Memorial 77 Vikárka 53 Vltava 33 Vyšehrad 71 Vysmátý zajíc 50 V Zátiší 33 Wakata 61 Wenceslas Square 71 Wigwam 62 XT3 60 Yasmin 23 Yessi Café 41 Zahrada v Opeře 33 Zanzibar 55 Zapa Bar 43 Žižkov Jewish Cemetery 74 Zlatá hvězda 51 Zlatá Praha 34 Zlaté časy 45 Zlatý strom 37 Zoo Praha 79 Zvonice 34 Hotel Absolut unique hotel in Prague ... absolutely different and authentic Jablonského 639/4, 170 00 Praha 7 T:+420 222 541 406, F:+420 222 541 407 GSM:+420 731 586 125 www.absoluthotel.cz Prague In Your Pocket FROM OCTOBER 2008 AT AIRPORT PRAHA WWW.GALLERIAMODA.CZ