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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps DUBROVNIK Summer 2008 Ancient charm N°3 - free copy www.inyourpocket.com A city of culture to enchant your heart. contents 5 Contents Introducing Dubrovnik What’s it all about? 7 8 9 10 11 19 24 25 27 33 Arriving in Dubrovnik Where the action is Glossary Don’t get caught with your trousers down Culture & Events Renaissance art to island reggae Where to stay Home sweet home Restaurants Enjoy the riches Cafés Where to watch the world go by Mail & Phones “I just called to say I luuuurve you…” 34 35 44 46 48 49 Nightlife Join the beautiful people Getting around An explorer’s bible What to see Those sights explained Shopping Take a little piece of my heart Sport The big blue Business Directory Banks and stuff Lifestyle Directory Important numbers Dubrovnik Neretva County Out and about around the city Maps & Index Street index City centre map City map County map Country map 60 62 64 66 67 Summer 2008 6 foreWord The stones of Dubrovnik tell a 13-century-long tale of survival. The Roman city of Ragusa developed into a city-state encompassing the coast as far south as the Bay of Kotor, the Peljesac Peninsula and nearby islands including Mljet and Lastovo. On the walls of Korčula Town, antique cannons still aim across a narrow channel at the village of Orebić, on Peljesac. That’s because Korčula was an outpost of Dubrovnik’s rival, the Republic of Venice. Legend has it that St. Blaise appeared in a vision in 971 to warn Dubrovnik of an impending Venetian invasion. He’s been revered here ever since. But it’s appropriate that he’s the saint who is celebrated with the blessing of throats. After all, Dubrovnik remained independent and prosperous for more than a millennium on its citizens’ powers of negotiation. Now Dubrovnik has thrown open its gates to an annual invasion of thousands of visitors who come to walk its ancient streets, to see the wealth the city amassed through centuries of trade, and to stand on its mighty walls and gaze across the crystalline seas. We’ll tell you all you need to know to enjoy your visit to Dubrovnik and the entire region it once ruled. introducing dubrovnik Europe In Your Pocket 7 Cover story A breathtaking view through the fortress of St John; the first building of the city which is today a part of the fortress was built in the 14th century. That same fortress was strengthened and further widened in the 16th century and it is still preserved in its original shape. Its purpose was to defend the city harbour as it was considered to be the most important defence fortress of the city. Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade and Ljubljana have been quick to surrender, and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana, Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and you have a full set. Elsewhere arround the Pocket Empire there are new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia), Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities this summer. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Dubrovnik In Your Pocket. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort, however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty or boastful pride. Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called, was an island, offering some protection from attack, but, of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful citizens their shelter. That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades, Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom. But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and, indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them. The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture flourished, leading to a love for harmony in ones surroundings, a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped the language of Croatian that we can hear today. This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town, this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this year held for the 57th time. It can also be heard – this is a city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland. Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to the sides of buses. It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results, happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved culture that’s a joy to uncover. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-0852 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin repro & roto, Zagreb Cover Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson, Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić, Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen, Tocher Mitchell Researcher Anita Piplović, Kristina Kovač Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan Photos Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team, Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Krešimir Grgić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Account Manager Mirna Cindrić Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 8 arriving in dubrovnik Tourist information Tourist Board Dubrovnik C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1/II, tel. 32 38 87, fax 32 37 25, e-mail: info@ tzdubrovnik.hr Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1/1, tel. 32 49 99, fax 32 42 24, info@visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr Association of Tourist Guides Dubrovnik C/D/3, Gundulićeva poljana 9, Tel. 32 36 08, fax 32 47 33, vodici.dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr. QOpen: Mon-Fri 10:00 – 12:00. gLossary Take a hike! In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres. After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula, or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb with no shade, but with the prospect of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks, remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office in Cavtat for a map. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you. 9 By coach The city has a brand spanking new coach station close to the Gruž harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry terminal at Gruž with all its amenities. Ticket office: open 05:30-22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange bureaux. Toilets: inside the terminal, cost 3kn. Left luggage: the garderoba works 0-24, 10kn per day. Public phones are on the platform. Shops and cafes: there is a news kiosk, plus a large Konzum supermarket next door (open 0-24). Getting to town: buses to town stop right outside the station, take lines 1A or 1B. Tickets cost 10kn from the driver. Taxis wait by the platform, or call 970. Smoking Cigarettes: public menace or personal right? The debate rages on in countries throughout the world, but not so much in Croatia at the present time. If you’re used to restaurants, cafés and clubs being completely smoke-free environments, prepare for a bit of a change when you arrive in Dubrovnik. Cigarette smoke wafts freely through virtually every bar, restaurant or café you’ll visit. There are a few restaurants that have non-smoking sections so it never hurts to ask, but don’t count on having the luxury of fresh-smelling clothing for long. By plane Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s small, clean and functional. There is a restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall. Parking costs 5kn per hour and 30kn per day. The pay machine for the car park is in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards. Getting to town: Most airlines organise buses to meet their flights - please check with your operator. A one way ticket to town costs 35kn. If your cheapskate airline has neglected you in this way, you’ll be reduced to forking out for a taxi - expect to pay 200kn (30EUR) to get to the city centre. By train Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve Dubrovnik, although it is possible to travel to Ploče and head south by bus. Customs All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices for items over 500kn. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. Call the Ministry of Finance for further details tel. 01 459 13 33, www.mfin.hr. Tipping Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it? Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances. By boat There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, or the commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers. Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there. There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. To get to the centre of town, hop on an orange bus number 1A, 1B or 8. A ticket for a single trip costs 10kn if you buy it in a news kiosk, 12kn if you buy it on board. You must stamp your ticket on entry. Health & Safety The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless. Policija (Police) are generally helpful in times of crisis; keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of identity documents, so keep some identification on you at all times. Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking. Climate 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J F MAM J J A S O N D Money Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Dubrovnik Neretva County: 122.870 Dubrovnik (April 2001): 30.436 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Dubrovnik Neretva County: Dubrovnik Neretva County measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea. Islands: An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney. There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm 100 75 50 25 0 By car For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik. Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware that during weekends approaching August, all roads become catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik, you can either travel: Via Split: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter “BiH” from the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes, Bosanska Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for traffic information, or keep an ear open for traffic news in English on the radio. Toilets Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free. National holidays January 1 January 6 March 24 May 1 May 22 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26 New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day Roads www.inyourpocket.com Croatian lawmakers can’t seem to make up their minds about the rules concerning drinking and driving. A recently passed law made the legal limit for alcohol a pure and chaste 0,0%. But recent developments have seen this law changed yet again. The changes mean that if you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% rule still applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a new limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 10 cuLture & events Libertas Film Festival 01.05 - 31.10. Art Pavilion/ Your Black Horizon The island of Lopud is the first destination in which the T-BA21 foundation chose for presenting the Pavilion after its huge success at the Venetian Biennial. See how this glorious island is transformed into a cultural and modern art location. Lopud island, every day from 11am till 5pm. 20 - 27.06. The Dubrovnik Historical Festival Step back into medieval chivalry as Dubrovnik reignites its historical past with knights jousting, renaissance dancing, music, street theatre and historical stories. Witness the making of products from wood, stone, ceramics, leather, metal and other materials according to ancient methods. Tickle your tummies with authentic foods such as dry figs, proscioutto, cheese in oil, sweets and cakes prepared according to middle ages recipes. Boškovićeva poljana, Stradun, Knežev dvor 27.06 - 02.07 The 4th Libertas Film Festival This independent international festival on feature film, documentary and short film will this year present over 50 films from across the globe. The winners in each category will be presented with the ‘Dubravka Award’ and the ‘Master Award’ for special achievement in the film industry. 08.07 - 28.09. Pablo Picasso Graphics Art buffs, see graphics by Pablo Picasso with his three representative series: Suite Vollard, La Tauromaquia and Suite 156. It will be borrowed from the German museum Kunst Mülheim an der Ruhr in der Alten Post and a Swiss private collection. Dubrovnik Art Gallery, (L-5) Frana Supila 23 10.07 - 25.08. The 58th Dubrovnik Summer Festival By far the largest cultural event of the year with an international musical, theatre and dance festival. Renaissance venues such as the Lovrijenac Fortress and the Duke’s Palace will provide the ambience that captivates so many. 04 - 14.08. The 5th Small Films Festival and Summer School of Film Šipan 2008 Lights! Camera Action! The Summer School of Film on the island of Šipan gathers professional film directors, screen writers, editors and cameramen who, together with primary and high school students - make films. Professional workshops and a ten day film festival will also be held. Šipan Harbour 03 - 14.09. The 8th Julian Rachlin & Friends Festival What a line-up? A chamber music festival set in the exquisite surroundings of the Duke’s Palace. Famous violinist Julian Rachlin will be joined by American baritone Thomas Hampson, Scandinavian pianist Leif Ove Andsnes, Hollywood actor Sir Roger Moore will attend whilst John Malkovich will recite a special project by the Spanish composer Alberto Iglesias. Duke’s palace Croos Media Festival In August, simply chill at the International Festival called oOoze which is filled with concerts, performers and street art. It is the type of festival which invites you to relax and enjoy the Mediterranean way of life, whilst also participating in festival events. Lazareti, Hotel Belvedere Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) Throughout the peak season you can watch a series of various concerts which include: the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra, Maria ManzoKissinger (conductor) and Michael Kissinger (clarinet), Zvetlina Maldjanska (soprano), Boiko Zvetanov (tenor), Pavica Gvozdić (piano), Marija Pavlović (clarinet) and many others.  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Gallery Sebastian, Ul. sv Dominika, tel. 32 14 90 June 04 - 21: Tomislav Buntak - Hodočašća June 24 - July 12 Ana Opalić (Photography) July 15 - August 06 Ivica Propadalo July 15 - 24 Milica Bravačić July 24 - August 19 Lucija Pandžić (Ceramics) August 08 - 16 Josef Geršl August 19 - September 10 Josip Škerlj September 12 - 30 Tina Gverović Exhibition War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6, tel. 32 21 66 May 01 - July 29 Bruce Connew : On the way to an ambush August 01 - October 31 Child Soldier Photographs by Alixandra Fazzina / Trolley - Uganda & Congo / Franco Pagetti / VII - Sierra Leone / Jan Grarup / Noor - Palestine / Noel Quidu / Gamma - Liberia / Yannis Kontos / Polaris - Nepal Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 12 Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool 00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar.com. A shining white Toblerone on the tip of the Babin kuk peninsula, this remarkable modern edifice has oceans of glass offering unimpeded views of the sea, the islands and the Blue Flag beach outside. All rooms have sea views, the superior rooms being particularly smart. Price for apartment is available upon request. Q181 rooms (181 doubles €139 - 329). PTHARFLEGBKDC hhhh Excelsior M-5, Frana Supila 12, tel. 35 33 53/ 35 30 00, fax 35 32 95, info@hotel-excelsior.hr, www.excelsior.hr. Completely renovated, this luxurious landmark has 146 bedrooms and 18 suites with every amenity possible. Delightfully furnished with state of the art facilities. Set near the heart of the Old City with splendor terraced views,fine dining with a Dalmatian and international cuisine, an indoor pool,wellness and beauty centre, private beach entry and more. Q157 rooms (3 singles €405, 136 doubles €540, triples €785, 15 Junior Suite: €685, 2 Deluxe Suite: €2080, 1 Presidential Suite: €3290). POTJHARFLG� BKDC hhhhh Importanne Resort Kardinala Stepinca 31, tel. 44 01 00, fax 44 02 00, info@importanneresort.com, www.importanneresort.com. Experience Dubrovnik’s first resort and you will definitely walk away with delight. Choose from three hotels Villa Elita (5 stars), Neptun (4 stars), Ariston (5 stars) with Importanne suites that are nestled along the sea, wellness facilities, sports and recreation, private car park, personalised services and a buffet restaurant that embraces the finest cuisine along with a noteworthy selction of wines. Dine on the terrace or walk along the seaside boardwalk. The natural surroundings are ideal and the resort is only a 10 minute drive from the Medieval City. Special offers are available online as well as state of the art facilties for corporate functions. Q237 rooms (209 doubles €98 - 216, 28 apartments €250 - 420). PTHAUIFLGBKDC hhhhh Uvala G-3, Masarykov put 6, tel. 43 35 80, fax 43 73 33, sales_uvala@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. The brand new Uvala exemplifies clean modern design, a philosophy echoed by the wellness centre (offers Dr Hauschka treatments) and a restaurant offering a full macrobiotic menu. Indoor and outdoor pools, plus internet access in rooms and smallish conference facilities making this a viable business option. Q51 rooms (45 doubles €160 - 272, 6 triples €220 - 272). PTHAI� FLEGBKDC hhhh Where to stay Dubrovnik President F-1, Iva Dulčića 39, tel. 44 11 13 Cream of the crop 00 00, fax 43 01 00, info@dubrovnikpalace.hr, www. dubrovnikpalace.hr. Hits the spot if you have contemporary tastes and take your surroundings seriously. A great pool and beach area, spa facilities and cool reception complete with arty waterfall and gallery. The soothing rooms are complete with Gharani Strok toiletries - this is Daddy Strok’s hotel, after all. Q308 rooms (22 singles €244, 249 doubles €382 - 768, 24 Junior suite: €544, 7 Executive suite: €668, 2 De luxe suite: €698, 3 Ambassador suite: €1200, 1 Presidental suite: €3000). PTHARUFLEGBKDC hhhhh The Pucić Palace C-3, Od Puča 1, tel. 32 62 00, fax 32 62 23, reception@thepucicpalace.com, www. thepucicpalace.com. A breathtaking hotel in a real live palace in the heart of the Old Town. So beautifully decked out in period style, it will awaken the blubbering romantic in the most hardened cynic. The staff knocked us off our feet with their friendly and helpful approach. Q19 rooms (1 single €289 - 347, 16 doubles €435 - 671, 1 suite €1012 - 1126, 1 Junior Suite €715 - 836). PTJAR6LEGBKW hhhhh Dubrovnik Palace F-3, Masarykov put 20, tel. 43 Mid-range 73 33, sales_adriatic@hotelimaestral.com; adriatic@ hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral.com. A good sized gym and clay tennis courts are a nice surprise in a two star hotel, and an additional host of activities (fancy sea kayaking?) make this a good option for sporty types. Decent, clean and friendly accommodation in leafy surroundings on the Lapad peninsula. Q158 rooms (11 singles €50 - 80, 130 doubles €88 - 140, 17 triples €105 - 165). PAF� LEGBK hh Adriatic G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. 43 35 20, fax 43 Upmarket Bellevue J-4, Pera Ćingrije 7, tel. 33 00 00, fax 33 01 00, welcome@hotel-bellevue.hr, www.hotel-bellevue.hr. Renovated with more than 90 rooms that provide spectacular balcony views of the Adriatic, minimalist interior equipped with all the necessities. Indulge in local art works, a-la-carte restaurant Vapor, a private cinema, spa centre, indoor pool, a private beach and more. Summer specials available. Only minutes from the town centre. Q91 rooms (2 singles €487, 79 doubles €499, 11 suites €927, 1 Presidential Suite €2200). PTHFLGBKDCW hhhhh Dubrovnik In Your Pocket  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Summer 2008 14 Where to stay 12 56, info@hotelstarigrad.com, www.hotelstarigrad. com. This little antique treasure is hidden in a street just off Stradun in the Old Town. The eight rooms are small but perfectly formed, and breakfast on the roof terrace is one of the highlights of a sunny day. Q8 rooms (singles 980Kn, 8 doubles 700Kn). PJARGB hhh Tirena F-2, Iva Dulčića 22, tel. 44 51 00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. The jury is out - seventies eyesore or modernist delight? But the rooms are lovely, and the best bit is the bar in the middle of the pool where you can cool down from without and within simultaneously. Loads of sports and the famous Copacabana beach nearby. Q208 rooms (208 doubles €120 - 288). PTHALEGBKC hhh Valamar Club Dubrovnik F-2, Iva Dulčića 18, tel. 44 71 00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar. com, www.valamar.com. 340 rooms and only 150m from the beach. All you need is on site, including restaurant services, pool facilities, entertainment programmes, car parking, washing facilities and more. 22km from the airport and 150m from the bus stop. Ideal for a family holiday. Q338 rooms (338 doubles €89 - 209). PTAEGBKC hhh Where to stay Stari grad B-2, Od Sigurate 4, tel. 32 22 44, fax 32 15 Islands Šipan Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. 75 49 00, fax 75 49 10, hotel-sipan@petral.hr, www.hotel-sipan. hr. This modest, medium sized hotel in the little port of Šipanska Luka is the last word in escapism. This fertile little island has little developed tourism, but has sunshine, clean water, a brace of good restaurants, excellent olive oil and tons and tons of peace and quiet. It also offers Royal Cruiser for rent. Q80 rooms (14 singles €85 - 119, 57 doubles €61 - 85, 5 triples €61 - 85, 4 suites €157 - 226). PTHAREGBK hhh Korčula Obala Franje Tuđmana 5, Korčula, tel. 71 10 78/ 72 64 80, fax 71 17 46, jasna@htp-korcula. hr, www.korcula-hotels.com. Choose this splendid villa in the centre of Korčula if you place historical romance above 21st century glamour - the hotel is rather dated inside, but it has a great terrace and old-fashioned coffee house. Rooms are spacious and the sea view from the tall gothic windows is spectacular. Q rooms 22 (2 singles €77 - 120, 13 doubles €110 - 160, 7 triples €149 - 216). ABK hhh Lafodia Obala Ivana Kuljevana 51, Lopud, tel. 75 90 22, fax 75 90 12, hotel.lafodia@du.t-com.hr, www.lafodia.hr. Car free Lopud island’s only large hotel is on a peaceful peninsula amid lush greenery. There’s a beach and pools in front of the hotel, and a ten minute walk takes you to the famous sandy Šunj bay. Unimaginatively decorated, but decent and friendly. Q196 rooms (12 singles €60 - 90, 184 doubles €45 66). PTAEGBK hhh Odisej Pomena bb, Mljet, tel. 36 21 11, fax 42 43 83, info@hotelodisej.hr, www.hotelodisej.com. The only modern hotel on Mljet island - a quiet complex set in thick vegetation in the resort of Pomena, right in the National Park. Rooms are simple, apartments have air conditioning and Jacuzzis. The diving school lets you explore the pristine waters of the island. Q157 rooms (12 singles €47 - 99, 139 doubles €58 - 148, 2 apartments €189 - 338, 4 Family Room €136 - 290). PTHAIEGBK hhh 61 00, sales@hotel-aquarius.net, www.hotel-aquarius. net. Recently given a make-over, this three star hotel includes four apartments and a further twenty rooms that have been garlanded with all the necessities. Eat out on the restaurant terrace, relax in the bar and choose from the diverse local and international cuisine. It is only 350 meters from the beach and a mere 3km from the historical city. Q32 rooms (22 doubles €134 - 158, 4 triples €180 - 213, 6 suites €164 - 188). PALBKW hhh Argosy F-1, Iva Dulčića 41, tel. 44 61 00, fax 43 56 22, reservations-dubrovnik@valamar.com, www.valamar. com. This airy low-rise has a discreet modern theme, and is only a pebble’s throw from popular Copacabana beach, with a water slide and beach restaurant to keep big’uns and little’uns happy. Or take in the view from the Argosy’s pool with an ice cold beer… mmmm! Q308 rooms (308 doubles €89 - 287). PTHARULEGBKC hhh Komodor G-3, Masarykov put 5, tel. 43 35 00, fax 43 73 33, sales_komodor@hotelimaestral.com, www. hotelimaestral.com. A slightly older, smaller hotel close to the centre of Lapad affords an intimate atmosphere. Rooms overlook a rather lovely pool area, and there’s great outdoor seating for mealtimes. A wide range of free time activities laid on with a smile, and facilities for small meetings. Q63 rooms (8 singles €46 - 108, 51 doubles €74 - 180, 4 triples €104 - 252). PTHALEBKC hhh Aquarius G/H-3, Mata Vodopića 8, tel. 45 61 11, fax 45 20 00/ 35 21 14, fax 43 58 77, sales@hotel-kompas. hr, www.hotel-kompas.hr. This smallish hotel close to the centre of Lapad is delightfully appointed in a clean and tasteful style in keeping with its modern design. The indoor and outdoor seawater pools (weather permitting) are excellent, and guests have unlimited free use of the gym, sauna and Jacuzzis. Q115 rooms (7 singles €135, 108 doubles €230). PTHAIFLEGBKDCW hhh Kompas G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 56, tel. 35 Petka I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Gruž, tel. 41 05  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 00/ 41 05 03, fax 41 01 27, info@hotelpetka.hr, www. croatia-vacation.com. Refurbished hotel with over 100 rooms each with air-conditioning and elegant bath facilities. Choose one of 64 balcony rooms with breathtaking views over the Adriatic. Restaurant Taverna Nostromo will delight you with its rich menu. Only minutes from the medieval city by bus. Q104 rooms (8 singles €66 - 106, 92 doubles €52 - 72, 4 triples €52 - 72). PHARIFLGBKW hhh Summer 2008 16 Where to stay Vila Micika G/H-3, Mata Vodopića 10, tel. 43 73 32/ 43 73 23, fax 43 71 62, info@vilamicika.hr, www.vilamicika.hr. Located in Lapad, amongst palm trees and a mere 200m walk to the beach. This oasis has excellent rooms that cater from two to sixteen people. It also includes the Restaurant Yacht Club Orsan which is renowned for its fresh fish, seafood and home style meat dishes. Q7 rooms (5 doubles €46 - 76, 2 triples €69 - 114). PTLNW hhh Vis G-3, Masarykov put 4, tel. 43 35 55, fax 43 35 50, sales_vis@hotelimaestral.com, www.hotelimaestral. com. The high spot of the Vis is the rather fine shingle beach with tables right by the water’s edge where you can indulge in sensory pleasures from the Lido restaurant and bar right into the evening. A mid-sized modern affair aimed at families, spick and span and rather friendly. Q152 rooms (9 singles €74 108, 129 doubles €96 - 180, 6 triples €96 - 180, 8 Superior Rooms €128 - 180). PTALEBK hhh Where to stay 17 Hostel Josipa Jelačića 15-17), tel. 42 32 41, fax 41 25 92, dubrovnik@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Although Dubrovnik’s youth hostel is sadly lacking in facilities, we found it clean and cheerful and can vouch for the comfy beds. A communal kitchen is at your disposal, there’s catering for large groups, and you can rent a bike or scooter next door. Q19 rooms (1 double 85 - 120Kn, 14 4-bedded dorm: 85 - 120Kn, 4 6-bedded dorm: 85 - 120Kn). ABK Fresh Sheets C-2, Vetranićeva 4, tel. 091 799 20 86, info@igotfresh.com, www.igotfresh.com. One of Dubrovnik’s best choices for budget accommodation in the Old Town, Fresh Sheets is run by a friendly well-travelled canadian croatian couple. Funky, clean, character rooms dorms which include breakfast, free internet and discounts at their popular travellers’ bar makes this guest house a true jewel. Book in advance. Prices are per night. Q4 rooms (4 apartments €20). AGW hh Dubrovnik Youth Hostel I-3, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (Bana Private accommodation fax 42 74 76, tel. 098 70 11 70, kristo.laptalo@du.tcom.hr, www.dubrovnikapartments-laptalo.com.hr. One HUGE bonus is garage parking very close to the city centre. Apart from that, the clean, comfortable rooms and the mammoth terrace with loungers overlooking the Old Town, the English and Italian speaking owner nurtures you like the delicate little flower you are. Q2 rooms (2 apartments €76 - 110). PJLNB hhh Apartments Toni G-1, Ivana Zajca 5, tel. 091 529 47 41/ 098 85 05 78, dubravka.tolja@du.t-com.hr; tonitolja@yahoo.com, www.apartmanitoni.com. If peaceful surroundings are important than these apartments definitely fit the bill. Only meters from the beach, several suites have been elegantly decorated with all the right modern multifunctional features. Luxury interior and views of Gruž Cove are an added bonus. Nearby are restaurants, a harbor and promenade. Only 10 minutes from the centre. Q5 rooms (1 apartment €150 - 350, 4 Studio Apartments €30 - 50). P6ILNBW Božo Kortizija K-5, Od Tabakarije 27, tel. 42 60 85/ 098 18 48 676;, bozo.kortizija@du.t-com.hr, www.accomodationkortizija.hr. A stone cottage in a quiet little huddle of houses around the harbour near the Pile gate. Spotlessly clean, modern rooms and an apartment to rent. The Kortizija family are the salt of the earth, and the location couldn’t be better. Simply superb. Q4 rooms (3 doubles €45 - 55, 1 apartment €80 - 100). P hhh Apartments Laptalo L-5, Petra Krešimira IV 13, tel./ Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 18 Where to stay Symbol key P E T G O R Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet A S U L M 6 Credit cards accepted Take away Facilities for the disabled Guarded parking Nearest station Animal friendly restaurants 19 Croatian nautika@du.t-com.hr. Enjoy your breakfast while the sun rises over the walls of Dubrovnik, or steak, seafood, sweets and shakes throughout the day. Dubravka shares the pretty, shady plaza Bršalje with Nautika (both restaurants have the same owners as Proto, Mimoza and Konavoski Dvori), and has a splendid view of the Lovrijenac, Minčeta and Bokar fortresses, and a peek of the deep blue beyond the walls. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PTAUB Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. 35 81 08/ 091 660 00 05; 091 358 18 88, fax 35 81 10, info@karaka.info, www.karaka.info. End a perfect summer’s day with a meal at sundown on a replica 16th century merchant ship just as they were made right here in Dubrovnik. It’s all in wood, rather luxurious, and the menu is just great - don’t miss local cured ham (pršut) and cheese. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. (60-120kn). AGB Maestoso L-4, Hvarska bb, tel. 42 09 86/ 098 24 31 71, fax 45 27 77, www.restaurantmaestoso.hr. Even though Maestoso sits plum just above the Ploče gate there are no pretensions here. They do what Dalmatian restaurants have done well for years, with a workmanlike approach to food and service that gives you a good value, local-style and highly enjoyable meal. Solid. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGB Mimoza K-5, Branitelja Dubrovnika 9, tel. 41 11 57/ 31 19 09, fax 31 19 08, mimoza@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100 meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle your tour group and several others simultaneously, seemingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the terrace, shaded partly with a grape arbor, is a pleasant place to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian dishes. A Dalmatian music group performs Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Delivery is available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80-120kn). PTAEGB Orhan K-5, Od Tabakarije 1, tel./fax 41 41 83, dominik. kuzman@du.htnet.hr, w w w.restaurant-orhan.com. Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile - it’s like something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle of houses beaneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore, a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80-400kn). PJAGB Taverna Nostromo I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 38, Hotel Petka, tel. 41 05 24/ 41 05 25, info@petka. hr, www.croatia-vacation.com. Don’t be put off by the unprepossessing look of the hotel from the outside - the food here is the subject of much praise among Dubrovnik’s citizens, and the service is fantastic. The taverna has a casual feel while the restaurant upstairs is the essence of modern refinement. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (100-300kn). PAGB Dubravka B-2, Brsalje 1, tel. 31 19 75, fax 31 19 58,  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Boris Vlahušić L-5, Koločepska 1, tel. 42 64 06/ 098 35 89 05, boris.vlahusic@du.t-com.hr. This stone house is set amidst lush vegetation a little way uphill from the Banje beach. It’s clean and simple, if perhaps a little old-fashioned. The owners are lovely, and Konoba Pjatanca downhill can supply meals for you to enjoy on the terrace. Q3 rooms (1 apartment €70 - 110, 2 Studio Apartment €55 - 80). P hhh 33, fax 47 98 58, hotel.supetar@hoteli-croatia.hr, www. hoteli-croatia.hr. This small hotel in a stone building in the heart of lovely Cavtat has a family-run atmosphere and is ideal for sightseeing, swimming and enjoying nightlife. Rooms are on the small side but the hotel is fully air conditioned and has a lovely breakfast terrace with cascades of bougainvillea. Q28 rooms (28 doubles €46 - 62). PJAGBK hhh Vila Koruna Pelješki put 1, Mali Ston, tel. 75 49 99/ 098 34 42 33, fax 75 46 42, vila-koruna@du.htnet.hr, www.vila-koruna.hr. Recently redecorated into a top quality restaurant and vila complex. Six rooms and two suites have been furnished with state of the art features. The restaurant is known for its pristine oysters, local olives, cheese, hams and sensual wines. The surroundings are lush and neatly secluded. Friendly staff looks after every detail. Q8 rooms (5 doubles €90, 3 triples €112). PTJHA6EBK hhhh Plat Hotels and Villas Plat bb, Mlini, tel. 48 90 00, fax 48 92 00, sales@hoteli-plat.hr, www.hoteli-plat.hr. Located 12km south of Dubrovnik and walking distance to the beach.New apartments are available for 2 to 3 people with your own kitchen and bath facilities. Car park included. Don’t miss the in-house Taverna Plat a-la-carte restaurant which cooks up delicious traditional gourmet dishes. Q107 rooms (107 apartments €61 - 230). AFLGKBC hhh Supetar Obala Ante Starčevića 27, Cavtat, tel. 47 98 Out of town Croatia Frankopanska 10, Cavtat, tel. 47 55 55, fax 47 82 13, info@hoteli-croatia.hr, www.hoteli-croatia. hr. A short way east out of Cavtat town, recently renovated Hotel Croatia offers modern, high standard accommodation. With a Blue Flag beach, pools, wellness facilities, a well regarded taverna, a nightclub and the lively little town of Cavtat nearby, you won’t run short of fun and frolics. Q487 rooms (480 doubles €95 - 128, 3 suites €345 - 483, 2 Junior suites €312 - 438, 2 Presidental siutes €487 - 1026). PHAFLEGBKDCW hhhhh Ostrea Mali Ston b.b., tel. 75 45 55, fax 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www.ostrea.hr. This small hotel is well placed for sampling the delights of the Pelješac peninsula, including the renowned seafood from the Mali Ston bay - it’s run by the family who own the Kapetanova kuća restaurant. Luxurious, traditional style accommodation plus a fleet of cars at your disposal. Q14 rooms (13 doubles 890 - 990Kn, 1 Presidental suite 1200Kn). PALBKW hhh Dubrovnik In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 20 restaurants Teatar C-3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. 32 39 77. Should you be in luck, you may find yourself seated in a classic terrace; otherwise this sidewalk restaurant is noted for its intimate setting. The menu oozes with seafood, steaks and pasta, but the grilled fish dishes prepared in nonchalant Dalmatian style are a must. Staff that knows more than just the local lingo will greet and treat you exceptionally well. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (50-150kn). AGB Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their advice and you might just get something a little out of the ordinary - real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked under an iron bell. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AGB Rozarij D-2, Prijeko 2, tel. 32 12 57. On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little restaurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run atmosphere and homestyle cooking - that’s why you’ll often find the locals lunching here. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PNB restaurants Pjatanca L-5, Koločepska 2, tel. 42 09 49. Head towards 21 Desserts Dolce vita C-2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. 32 16 66. This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and ice cream - among the best in town - just off Stradun. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PNGB Light bites Buffet Škola C-2, Antuninska 1, tel. 32 10 96/ 098 909 40 18. A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made with home baked bread. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PNGBS Express C-3, Marojice Kaboge 1, tel. 32 39 94. A swift, square meal on a budget right in the heart of the Old Town. Fill up on soups, pasta dishes, cooked meals and a salad bar and get change from five Euro. A lifesaver! QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAB International 67 41 41, kucaeda@du.t-com.hr. You guessed it, the Old Town’s only Bosnian restaurant, where you can enjoy good grilled meats including čevapi - shish kebab. Try one of the “pite” pies (we love the spinach one). Sweet tooths will love baklava, others will fall into a sugar-induced coma! QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AB Taj Mahal C-3, Nikole Gučetića 2, tel. 32 32 21/ 098 Konoba www.mea-culpa.hr. Delightfully old-fashioned in a seafaring style, Lokanda, right on the old Ploče harbour, offers simple fish dishes at low prices. Don’t miss the fried small fish or the black squid ink risotto, and be prepared to wait for a table. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PAB Lokanda Peskarija D-2, Na Ponti bb, tel. 32 47 50, Mediterranean 25 25, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. The place to splash out in style - a wonderful terrace overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two. Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surroundings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Dubrovnik dining. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PJAGB Atlas club Nautica A-2, Brsalje 3, tel. 44 25 26, fax 44 Dubrovački kantun C-2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. 33 19 11/ 32 11 23, antonela.di.leo@du.t-com.hr, www. kantun.bravehost.com. Centrally located with a homely atmosphere best describes this restaurant. Its menu is packed with traditional dishes that compliment both meaty lovers and vegetarians. An ‘a la nouvelle cuisine’ is charmed with some of the finest drops of Dalmatian wine on offer. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PNG Eastwest Beach Club Restaurant L-5, Frana Supila bb, tel. 41 22 20, info@ew-dubrovnik.com, www. ew-dubrovnik.com. In the beach complex by the Ploče gates languishes this hybrid of minimalism and Far East design aesthetics, offering everything from sandwiches and burgers (around 50kn) to gazpacho, plate salads, and a strong selection of international meat and seafood dishes. A classy place for a bite. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (60-125kn) PJALGB Poklisar D-2, Ribarnica 1, tel. 32 21 76, fax 32 21 77, kavana_poklisar@yahoo.com, www.poklisar.com. The terrace right on the Ploče harbour waterfront is a popular spot to take the weight off and relax with a simple pasta dish or salad during a hard day’s sightseeing. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PJAEGBS Sesame K-5, Dante Alighieria bb, tel. 41 29 10, fax 42 10 54, misko.ercegovic@du.htnet.hr, www.sesame.hr. An Aladdin’s cave of antique treasures, contemporary music and an eclectic blend of local and Mediterranean recipes orchestrated by the fastidious owner. Succulent lamb in dill sauce, saltimbocca, beautifully seasoned vegetables and pancakes with orange and almonds - everything is sublime. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (70-150kn). AGB Taverna Maslina F-3, Masarykov put 20, Dubrovnik Palace Hotel, tel. 43 00 00, www.dubrovnikpalace. hr. The coolest design hotel in Dubrovnik has an elegant restaurant with sea views and stylish poolside seating. The cuisine is excellent: Dalmatian specialities with a contemporary twist, and light Mediterranean tastebudtinglers. Grilled chicken sandwiches make a great lunchtime treat. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (120-800kn). PALEB Wanda B-2/3, Prijeko 8, tel. 098 944 93 17/ 098 944 93 18, wandarestaurant@yahoo.com, w w w. wandarestaurant.com. You’ll find yourself ‘wondering’ back to this lovely traditional restaurant that is packed with tasty meat and fish dishes. Dalmatian smoked ham and cheese, octopus salad, calamari, beefsteak, and traditional cuisine are aligned with fresh seasonal groceries. Expect quality service, a cozy atmosphere and only walking distance from Stradun. Q Open daily from 11:30 - 15:00 and 18:00 - 23:30. (70-290kn). PAGB Out of town Adio Mare Ulica Marca Pola 1, Korčula town, tel. 71 12 53/ 098 24 38 45, fax 71 16 83. Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tourists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a table! Open 17:30 ‘til the guests go home. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (50-150kn). PNGB www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 22 restaurants high point of this otherwise excellent fish restaurant is the terrace hovering so close to the sea that you could lean over the railing and draw your hand through the water. Great for a romantic meal at sundown.it’s worth the trip to this little village just north of Dubrovnik. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (40-540kn). ANBS Bota Kroz polje 5, Mali Ston, tel. 75 44 82/ 091 175 44 79, fax 75 40 01, botamaliston@inet.hr, www.botasare.hr. Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to sample numerous dishes containing the cooked little critters. Excellent. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70-400kn). PALBX Galija Vuličevićeva 1, Cavtat, tel. 47 85 66, fax 47 85 54, mislav.burdjelez@du.t-com.hr, www.galija.hr. A strong selection of charcoal grilled meats including excellent steaks, plus unusual seafood specialities including shrimps in honey and sea urchins - have a go, if you think you’re hard enough! This pleasantly casual stone house has great terraces and is right on the Cavtat waterfront. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (120-150kn). PAEGB Kapetanova kuća Mali Ston, Ston, tel. 75 42 64/ 75 45 55, fax 75 45 75, ostrea.info@ostrea.hr, www. ostrea.hr. Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of the sheltered terrace. We were a little surprised by sharp pieces of prawn detritus in the robustly flavourful risotto and by the stale bread (it was Sunday). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (60-100kn). PALB Konavoski dvori Ljuta, Konavle, tel. 79 10 39/ 44 25 73, fax 79 14 53, sales@esculap-teo.hr, www.esculapteo.hr. Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta (“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (80-100kn). ALGB restaurants Konavoski komin Velji dol, Jasenice, Cavtat, tel. 47 96 07, fax 47 15 53. Set in the lush rural region of Konavle, the stone terrace has a fantastic view. Everything is home grown and full of flavour: try juicy meats cooked under an iron bell heaped with embers or charcoal grilled fish, a garden salad and home made apple strudel. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (45-90kn). ALBX Konoba Marinero Šetalište Marka Marojice bb, Mlini, tel. 48 72 57/ 098 69 96 13, fax 48 64 71, vivado@ du.t-com.hr, www.vivado.hr. If you happen to be enjoying the fine beaches of Župa Dubrovačka, be sure to pop into Konoba Marinero in Mlini, where you’ll find colourful tables set in lush gardens overlooking the sea. Great seafood and local specialities are carefully prepared by the lady owner - a supremely relaxing treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (68-98kn). ALB Leut Trumbićev put 11, Cavtat, tel. 47 84 77/ 098 24 42 25, fax 47 90 50, ivan.bobic@du.htnet.hr, www. kroatien-ferien.com. One of the best places to try quality local cooking in Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very centre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to steaks and seafood either. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100-1000kn). PAGB Orsan Gverović Štikovica 43, Zaton Mali, tel. 89 12 67, fax 89 10 97, restaurant@gverovic-orsan.hr, www. gverovic-orsan.hr. This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since opening in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an carnival of seafood) and salad made from “motar”, a grass that grows at the edge of the sea. QOpen 12:00 24:00. ALB Pjat Šipanska luka 160, Šipan, tel. 75 83 10/ 75 49 00, fax 75 49 10, hotel-sipan@petral.hr, www. hotel-sipan.hr. Ignore the bit on the website which calls the atmosphere “fantastically mundane” in an extraordinary mix of modesty and hyperbole, we think it’s great! A beautiful old palace on this idyllically quiet harbour is the stylish venue for Mediterranean fusion delights QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50-150kn). PAB 23 Ankora Zaton bb, Zaton Veliki, tel. 89 10 31. The 098 177 80 65, konoba-triton@du.t-com.hr, www.triton. hr. A frequent stop on yachting trips: there’s a mooring right outside the house, and father / chef / fisherman Tonči has a very special way with island-grown capers. Fish carpaccio, marinated anchovy fillets, octopus salad, home made Mediterranean herb rakija - it’s all the stuff of dreams! QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. (50-200kn). AB Zure Lumbarda 239, Korčula, tel. 71 23 34/ 091 512 87 12, batistic.zure@du.t-com.hr, www.zure.hr. If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place. The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands on your table. The food is excellent, and the pomegranate rakija a unique experience! QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. AB Triton Zaklopatica bb, Lastovo, tel./fax 80 11 61, tel. Seafood Proto C-2, Široka 1, tel. 32 32 34, fax 32 32 35, sales@ esculap-teo.hr, www.esculap-teo.hr. Nautika’s little brother is not only a little cheaper but also has a wonderful location just off Stradun. Superb food - mainly seafood, but meat dishes kick ass too - a supremely romantic ambience and friendly service make this a strong contender for top dining spot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGB YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. 43 59 33, fax 43 73 23, restoran-orsan@du.t-com.hr, www.orsan.cjb.net. The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputation as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbout. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PALB Pizza Baracuda B/C-3, Nikole Božidarevića 10, tel. 32 31 60/ 098 30 19 88. Claims to be the first pizzeria in town, serving hot pizza pie as big as your tummy! QOpen 08:00 - 24:30. PNBS Mea Culpa B-3, Za Rokom 3, tel. 32 34 30. Serves up a somewhat pricey but reasonable pie - pizzas can be a bit iffy in Dubrovnik. This complex includes a pizzeria, a grill for čevapi (shish kebab, basically) and a lovely dark wood pub with a great stack of rock-based CDs on the bar. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJABS Vegetarian Nishta C-2, Prijeko 30, tel. 092 218 86 12/ 098 186 74 40, info@nishtarestaurant.com, www.nishtarestaurant. com. Jam packed amongst a street filled with restaurants is this small haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find vegetarian food from all over the world including Mexican, Indian and Chinese. Choose from falafel, curry, fondue, and spring-rolls. The smoothie bar close by is an affiliation with choices of soy, rice and oat milk for that final desert.. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. ABS  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 24 cafÉs www.inyourpocket.com Africa C-2, Vetranićeva 3, tel. 098 85 49 54. Among the many little cafés tucked in the side streets off Stradun, this is one of our favourites for the cool artwork and good music. It’s a place where locals catch up over a brew. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. P Biker’s Cafe L-5, Petra Krešimira IV /39, tel. 091 764 69 19, info@bikers-caffe.com, bobara-komerc@du.t-com. hr, www.bikers-caffe.com. Perched up in a neighbourhood just above Ploče, this place is worth seeking out to meet up with bike fans from around the world. The friendly staff will try their best to sort you out with a place to stay. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. PNGB Festival D-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 11 48, fax 32 23 73, info@caffefestival.com. This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00. PAB GradsKavana D-3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. 32 12 05 / press 2, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa.hr. A kavana is a Austro-Hungarian style coffee house, and the wonderful thing about this one, apart from the fine architecture and location, is that it’s been given delightful modern touches and offers a selection of fantastic cakes. Try the cake made with macaroni and walnuts. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PJAB Laura L-5, Frana Supila 1, tel. 098 42 82 78, lmrkic@ acmt.hr. Easily overlooked, but shouldn’t be - the view over the walled city from the terrace just above the Ploče gate is phenomenal, and inside great music (commercial dance and local rock) plus fine local travarica (herb brandy) rule the roost. Turns into a night bar weekends during high season. QOpen 06:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 06:30 - 03:00. PB Talir C-2, Antuninska 5. A classy spot to sup your coffee amidst antique style furnishings and artwork. If that’s not enough to satisfy your aesthetic as well as caffeine cravings, you can pop into the gallery opposite afterwards. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB nightLife 25 We’ve written this guide for high season, which features a city teeming with tourists and Croatian party people ready to see in the dawn. Dubrovnik is more geared to highbrow culture than to nightlife, but there is enough going on in high season to keep night owls happy. Croatians like to put their best face forward when they hit town, so don’t be surprised if your cargo pants make you feel like you’ve wandered in from the homeless shelter. Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana 5, tel. 32 34 76. It’s hard to beat a warm evening spent here toe-tapping to mellow jazz (live acts too), with your supersize view onto the Cathedral. A near-perfect experience, so we’ll forgive the significantly above-average prices. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. NB Bars 098 983 08 31, sales@mea-culpa.hr, www.mea-culpa. hr. This huge space is a former repair workshop for wooden galleys. Plonk yourself at one of the pirate-sized wooden tables and chow down on great seafood (served by midnight), have a drink or three, take in a live band and indulge in a spot of shimmying on the dancefloor - in any order or combination. Spectacular. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PAEB Buža D-4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s tower, tel. 32 40 53/ 098 36 19 34. What a place to sit - rocky terraces overlooking the open sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for everything. QOpen 08:30 03:00. B Capitano A-1, Između vrta 2, tel. 098 36 64 70. This bar is usually empty before the witching hour, after which it transforms into a scene of drinking, dancing and shenanigans which go on ‘til the wee small hours. Commercial dance, occasional live bands and hormone-fuelled youth dressed to kill. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PNGB Mirage C-3, Bunićeva poljana 3, tel. 32 34 89. On a fine square near the Cathedral, this café slash bar has great outside seating to rival Troubadour’s. The inside isn’t bad either (not that you’ll need it, we hope) and beer and cocktails are well priced. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. PB None Nina D-3, Pred Dvorom 4, tel. 098 915 99 09/ 091 466 67 86. A perfect spot for people-watching on comfy loungers right opposite the Rector’s Palace - you can see people climbing about on the city walls. This place does coffees by day and shakes the cocktails by night. The toilets are designed for the fairy people. QOpen 09:00 02:00. PNB Porto Srebreno 10, Mlini, tel. 48 70 78. It’s a hop out of town in the village of Srebreno (you can get there on the bus heading for Cavtat), but this big, modern space which serves as a chillout zone by day and a lively bar with dancing by night has proved to be very popular with local trendsters at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 04:00. PGB Boats Karaka D-2, Old City Harbour, tel. 35 81 08/ 091 660 00 05; 091 358 18 88, fax 35 81 10, info@karaka. info, www.karaka.info. Moored in the Old City Harbour, this beautiful replica of a traditional Dubrovnik merchant ship of the 16th century functions as a bar and restaurant when it’s not carrying lucky folks on sailing tours of the islands. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00. AG Arsenal D-3, Pred Dvorom 1, tel. 32 10 65 / press 1/ Casinos Golden Sun Casino G-4, Liechtensteinov put 3 (Hotel Rixos Libertas), tel. 63 85 88, fax 63 85 81, marketing@ major.hr, www.major.hr. A super fancy casino in the Rixos Libertas Hotel. Q Open 24h (bar and slot machines), 18:00-06:00 (gambling tables). EK In Croatia, as in Italy, café culture rules. Life is simply not worth living without a daily gossip over a macchiato. This process seems to last at least five hours, leaving outsiders wondering who the hell does any work around here. So the cafés are always busy, and the coffee usually good. The standard espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called a “bijela kava” (white coffee). Clubs Fuego A-2, Brsalje 8, tel./fax 31 28 70, fuego.du@ yahoo.com. A proper little club on Pile. As the name suggests, you’ll often find a Latin theme down here, but other nights mainstream rock, dance, the odd live band… And on hot summer nights when you’re full of cocktails and joie de vivre, who really cares? QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. PNGB Lazareti L-5, Frana Supila 8, tel./fax 32 46 33, arl@ du.htnet.hr, www.arl.hr. A superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house is given over to happenings of an arty/underground nature, including quality DJs spinning electronica. International multimedia festival includes independent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. Living Room J-4, Ante Starčevića 7, tel. 46 86 52/ 091 567 26 32, www.livingroom.com.hr. A café/bar that is comfortable and relaxing, it’s great for that casual chat amongst friends in a setting that is neat, casual and well known for its fine coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PNGBW  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Summer 2008 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 26 nightLife Essential Dubrovnik D-2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. 32 14 23, fax 32 22 05. The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the 13th century, and with the building of their monastery a century later, they became an important part of the city’s defences - the monastery is at a strategic corner of the Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful stone steps lead up to the complex - notice that the balustrades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strategic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456-1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The interior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an important library and collection of art including a painting of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as important works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00 and 19:00. Entry 20kn. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Gundulić Square (Gundulićeva poljana) C/D-3. This square is named after the long-haired chappie standing in the centre - one Ivan Gundulić, a Dubrovnik statesman and Baroque poet whose verse set the standard for literary Croatian which is still accepted today. The statue to him was erected in 1893. Gundulić’s poems were hymns to his home city and the struggles of the Slav nations against rival powers. The square bordered by elegant shops, restaurants and homes is the Old Town’s fruit market in the mornings. Lokrum Island L/M-6. You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of island life: Lokrum island is just a short hop away by boat (departs 09:00, 10:00 and every 30min till 20:00. 10min trip, 40kn return). It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the monastery here was founded in the 11th century, apparently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you have great views. What to see Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) 27 Orlandinjo Club F-3, Masar ykov put 20 (Hotel Dubrovnik Palace), tel. 43 00 00, info@dubrovnikpalace. hr, www.dubrovnikpalace.hr. The Palace is one of the grooviest corners of Dubrovnik, practically exploding with contemporariness, and urbanites will find the nightclub is no exception. Live jazz acts go down nicely with excellent wines and cocktails, but be aware you do pay for your fancy surroundings! QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PA Lounge bars Gils Cuisine and Pop lounge bar D-2, Sv. Dominika 2, tel. 32 22 22, fax 32 22 20, info@gilsdubrovnik.com, www.gils-dubrovnik.com. A beautifully designed complex of restaurant, bar and nightclub, which you can probably only afford to frequent if you can afford if the currency your salary is paid in is doing particularly well at the moment and resides in an equally beautifully designed wallet. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAB Pubs 098 50 03 22, www.irishpub-karaka.t-com.hr. A spit and sawdust style woodsy pub full of persons of Gaelic descent and loud rock music! Crowded, sweaty, drunken, not very Croatian - but fun. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PENGB Katie O’Connell’s Irish Pub C-2, Dropčeva 4a, tel. 32 15 75/ 091 220 20 94, bradley@du.t-com.hr. Brand new in 2006 but managing to look centuries old, this delightful stone cellar in one of the streets leading north of Stradun is sure to be a decent spot to eat and drink this year. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PAEB King Richard’s Pub I-4, Josipa Kosora 40, tel. 33 37 40/ 33 37 33, viam1@du.t-com.hr. Somewhat incongruous - a classy, “traditional” style pub in a rather new residential building, but nice nonetheless, and has become a favoured night spot on Lapad. Upstairs is for drinking and scoffing; downstairs is for boogieing and karaoke. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. PAEB Irish Pub Karaka C-2, Između polača 5, tel. 32 30 70/ Onofrio’s Fountains - Great and Small (Velika i mala Onforijeva fontana) B-2, D-3, Poljana Paska Miličevića, Pred Dvorom. One of the first spectacular sights that greets you when you enter Stradun from the Pile Gate is the Great Onofrio Fountain, with its huge central dome and sixteen water taps all around. A ledge and steps around the water trough provide a perfect resting spot for tired sightseers. The fountain is the end point of the aqueduct that architects Onofrio dell Cava and Andriuzzi de Bulbilo built from a source near the river, almost 12km away, one of the first aqueducts to be built on the territories of today’s Croatia. Completed in 1438, the fountain was once more ornate with a massive cupola, but was damaged in the great earthquake and never repaired. Onofrio’s small fountain is an elegant little masterpiece decorated with playful dolphins that stands near the tower at the other end of Stradun. www.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik In Your Pocket In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of the Republic. Today you’ll see the white “Libertas” flag symbolising the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This spot was once the both the marketplace and to some extent still is the political “heart” of the city: it was the place where citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or “lakat” (elbow) – you can see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom of the sculpture Stradun, Placa B-2/D-2. When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll often hear people referring to “Stradun”, which you won’t see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The name comes from the Italian “strada”, meaning “street”. With its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque buildings that line it, it is itself one of the Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup) D-2, Pred Dvorom. Summer 2008 28 What to see best known sights of Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the dividing line between the earliest settlement and the parts of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek for “rock”, since it was originally an island. From the name Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus was probably inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later, Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel – this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th century, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated and began to build the city walls. What to see The Cathedral (Katedrala) D-3, Poljana Marina Držića, tel. 32 34 59 Treasury/ 32 34 96, fax 32 34 96. The elegant pale grey Cathedral at rosy sundown exemplifies the frequently quoted phrase “city of stone and light” (Jure Kaštelan). Its dome gracefully tops the skyline whichever way you look at it, and its baroque forms are one more chapter of the fairytale of the city streets. It was thought that the Cathedral, built between 1672 and 1713 by Italian architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti, was built on the site of an earlier 12th century Romanesque cathedral, destroyed in the great earthquake of 1667. However, following another earthquake in 1979, excavations showed that there had, in fact, been a Byzantine cathedral on this spot since the 7th or 8th centuries. The light and lofty interior is most famous for its collection of treasures, which includes reliquaries of St Blaise. The golden caskets containing the saint’s head and foot are thought to be the work of Byzantine masters of the 11th century. By the main altar is a painting of the Assumption by Titian which features a self-portrait of the artist. Mass: 07:30 and 18:00, Sun 07:30, 18:00 and 20:00. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. D-3, Pred Dvorom. Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door. Their green colour is a result of their copper composition rather than their roots on Mars. They are affectionately known as zelenci – “the green ones” – or, individually, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed and rebuilt in 1928. It weighs two tonnes and was cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst centrepoint is rather lovely in its simplicity. of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church. Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by steps and balustrades - it’s a fine sight to see the theatregoers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm evening. 29 The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža zvonara) The City Harbour (Gradska luka) D/E-2, D/E-3. Dubrovnik owes its very existence to shipping. There is evidence that the lands here were first colonised by Illyrian tribes in the 4th century, probably attracted by the security offered by the island which lay where the southern half of the Old Town now stands, and the natural lie of the land with Mount Srđ standing guard. It lay at a natural resting point on the maritime trade routes that existed even before the Roman Empire. After the Slavs settled here and began fortifying the city in the 13th century, owing to good diplomatic ties with powers such as Turkey and Venice, Dubrovnik began to establish a healthy shipping trade. Two harbours were built in rocky, protected coves: a main one near the Ploče gates and a smaller one on the Pile side. Through trade, Dubrovnik grew wealthy and rose to rival that other maritime city state, Venice. During the city’s golden age in the 16th century, the merchant navy numbered around 200 ships. Shipbuilding was a highly important industry, and the Dubrovnik “Karaka”, a beautiful galleon, was well known as being of exceptional quality as it was made of durable Lebanese Cedar. You can see a replica in Gruž harbour in the evenings. The sheltered harbour at Ploče has a wonderful atmosphere, and is now the spot for embarking on a boat tour, for buying local textiles from the local ladies sewing in the shade, or for enjoying a good meal. Did you know? The English word “argosy”, meaning a fleet of ships, is derived from the name Ragusa. The City Walls, Bastions and Gates Pile & Ploče (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča). Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre (Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića) D-3, Pred Dvorom 1. South St Blaise How close St Blaise is to the people of Dubrovnik is shown by the number of times he appears in reliefs and sculptures in the city, and by the celebrations on his feast day, February 3, when a grand procession through town takes place, followed by great merriment. It is thought he was adopted as the city’s saint protector in 971 after appearing in a vision warning of an attack by the Venetians. St Blaise came from Armenia, he was a healer, and legend has it that sick animals came to him but would never disturb his prayers. He was persecuted as a Christian, and in prison still practised medicine, saving a child from choking on a fishbone. That’s why he is the patron saint of ailments of the throat, and on his feast day peoples’ throats are still blessed with two entwined candles. He was thrown in a lake, and stood on the water waiting for his persecutors to come out to him – they drowned. When he came back to dry land, his flesh was torn with wool combs and he was beheaded. www.inyourpocket.com walls are among the best preserved and most attractive on this planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The defences were built between the 8th and the 16th century. The fact that on th e land side th ey are almost 6m thick in places sh ows their primary purpose as defence against attack from the mountainous hinterland - the Ottoman Empire, for example, lay just a few kilometres inland. The walls were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and were never breached the Republic of Dubrovnik only fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition that they would respect its independence. Two further fortresses, Revelin to the East and Lovrijenac, on a headland just west of the Old Town, provided additional strategic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, and has a cocktail bar, pizzeria and nightclub inside. Lovrijenac is one of the most atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional performances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and its well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, just north of the Pile gate, with its stylised battlements, is one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress houses the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city. 14 10, fax 32 10 29. The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the oldest one still working. The monastery houses a museum where you can see original items from the pharmacy, plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manuscripts, and a large collection of musical notations and a a treasury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the pieta, and, on a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is to stand on it facing the wall - it’s the test of a real man! Entry: 25kn per adult, 12kn per child. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. The Franciscan Monastery of the Brothers Minor and the Old Pharmacy (Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka Male braće) B-2, Placa 2, tel. 32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 30 What to see Luža 3, tel. 32 34 62, fax 32 33 10. Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is perhaps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by local artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonderful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Baroque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are the setting for some of the most important events of the life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. The Lazaret (Lazareti) L-5. Just past the Ploče gates is a row of adjoining stone buildings with gates guarding the courtyards. This was the Dubrovnik lazaret - quarantine houses for travellers in times of plague. Since these buildings were usually destroyed when the need for them passed, Dubrovnik’s lazaret is one of the last remaining in Europe. The rather impressive stone buildings now house artists’ workshops and a humanitarian organisation, and are the venue for concerts and DJ parties. What to see Mass in English Mass is held in English every day at 12:00 at the Jesuit Church of St Ignatius C-4, Poljana R. Boškovića 6, tel. 32 35 00. 31 The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha) D-3, Churches Dubrovnik’s citizens have often had cause to ask for help over the ages, and have never forgotten to say thank you. That’s why they engaged in building so many churches. Here are just a few of the main ones in the Old Town. B-2, Od Sigurate 13, tel. 32 14 67. To find this pink little baroque confection, you have to enter what looks like someone’s garden off an intimate side street. There was probably a church on this spot well before its first mention in the 12th century. Franciscan nuns established their convent here in the 13th century, and the adjoining museum contains household objects they used in order to support their order (e.g. needlework), as well as liturgical utensils and artworks, including two wax dolls of the baby Jesus (Bambino). At one time, every Dubrovnik household had such a doll, which was especially venerated at Christmas time. Open 10:00 - 12:00 and 16:00-18:00 and upon request or prior announcement. Entry 10kn, children 5 kn. Church of St Saviour (Crkva sv. Spasa) B-2, Placa bb. The first church you’ll see on entering the Old City from the Pile gate is St Saviour’s, with its typical Dalmatian rosette window on the front. It was built between 1520 and 1520 by grateful citizens who were delivered from a terrible earthquake – it is said that even the city’s aristocratic ladies helped with carrying wood and stone. It’s often used as a venue for concerts and recitals. Church and Convent of Sigurata & Museum of Sigurata Convent (Samostan i muzej Sigurata) St Ignatius’ Church (Crkva sv. Ignacija) C-4, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. 32 35 00, fax 32 46 50. Part of a fine complex on an elevated square close to the southern edge of the Old Town, the wonderfully ornate Jesuit church of St Ignatius is approached via a romantic baroque staircase which is modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). The church itself was built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. Both the stairway and the square in front of the church are used as venues at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Despite the somewhat run-down appearance of the adjoining college, an esteemed place of education, this is a particularly atmospheric spot in one of the oldest parts of the city. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. C-3, Strossmayerova. The graceful building which now houses the acclaimed Music School, in one of the oldest parts of town south of Stradun, is the former convent of St Katherine. St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) D-2, Zlatarska. This little church at the Ploče end of Prijeko was originally built in simple, pre-romanesque style typical for early Middle Ages Dalmatia; a late renaissance frontage was added in 1607. Inside, you can see stone ornaments in an interlocking style reminiscent of Celtic knotwork called “pleter”, which is typical of early Croatian churches, plus a fine painting of the Madonna dating back to the 13th century. D-2, Sv. Dominika. This 15th century church was built by the Ploče gate, for a good reason: St Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. It lies under the protective wing of the Dominican monastery, in a pretty corner by the stone steps and balustrade. Spooky legends Lokrum is connected with several legends. The least scary of them is about Richard the Lionheart, who was caught in a violent storm on his return from the Crusades, and was so grateful to find shelter on the island that he pledged 100,000 ducats for the building of a church on the spot, but was persuaded by the Dubrovnik nobles to allow it to be built in the city instead. And thence came, the story goes, the money for building the Dubrovnik cathedral. More creepy is the curse of the Benedictine monks, who were so furious at being cast off the island by the occupying French in the early 19th century that they cursed any person who would look upon Lokrum as his own property. And indeed, every owner since then did meet a violent death, including Emperor Maximilian, who was executed by firing squad by Mexican republicans. St Katherine’s Convent (Samostan sv. Katarine) St Sebastian’s Church (Crkva sv. Sebastijana) Museums & Galleries Tickets Groups of 4 can get discount tickets for four museums: the Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Marin Držić House and Ethnographic Museum for 50kn adults, 25kn children. Rozario Church and Confraternity (Crkva i bratovština Rozario) D-2, Zlatarska. Opposite the The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) D-3, Pred Dvorom Dominican monastery is a further building which once formed part of the complex, and includes the diminutive Rosary church – nowadays used as an occasional gallery space. The building dates back to 1594 and is built in mannerist and baroque styles. Supila 8, tel. 32 46 33/ 32 37 66, arl@du.htnet.hr, www.arl.hr. A gallery in the Dubrovnik lazaret - the former quarantine houses - which now houses an artists’ community, including workshops and this gallery. Contemporary local art of an excellent standard. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej) E-3/4, St. John’s fortress(Tvrđava Sv. Ivana), tel. 32 39 04. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. The display of models of the fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairytales they, along with blueprints from the archives, were used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Museum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old harbour. Entry 35kn adults, 15kn children. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. 56, fax 32 20 96. The Museum’s work focuses on gathering documentation on contemporary history since World War Two, including memoirs and photography. From time to time you can see all their exhibitions in Knežev Dvor. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions. The Aquarium (Akvarij) E-3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel. 32 39 78, fax 32 38 72. Housed in the magnificent St John’s fortress (Sveti Ivan), the Aquarium gives you the chance to get to know the sea life of the Adriatic without having to eat it. Children will love it; animal rights activists may be less than impressed. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Gallery Otok, ARL (Galerija Otok, ARL) L-5, Frana Modern History Museum (Muzej suvremene povijesti) B-2, Poljana Paska Miličevića 1, tel. 32 48 1, tel. 32 14 37. One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining him to these quarters which he could only leave on official occasions and religious holidays. The building changed its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Michelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations were added in baroque style in the 17th century following the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is timelessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful colonnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside, a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts. The palace is now a museum where you can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Artworks, costumes and domestic objects of the period are all on display. Serbian Orthodox Church and Museum of Icons (Pravoslavna crkva i muzej ikona) C-3, Od Puča 8, tel. 32 32 83, fax 32 38 29. Dubrovnik’s Orthodox church was built from 1865-1877, and stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. It houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan, but those looking for a more extensive collection should head for the museum on the second floor of the building next door. Ar t Gallery Dubrovnik (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik) L-5, Frana Supila 23, tel. 42 65 90, fax 43 21 14, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija. dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian modern painting and sculpture which encompasses almost all important artists since the beginning of the 20th century. Entry for Art Gallery Dubrovnik and The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery - 30kn. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnografski muzej Rupe) B-3, Od Rupa 3, tel. 32 30 13, fax 32 20 97.  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket “Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. D-4, Braće Andrijića 7, tel. 32 40 41, arheoloski.muzej@ du.htnet.hr. The Archaeological museum currently does not have a permanent residence, and some of its collections are still under preparation, but you can see objects dating back to prehistoric times excavated from the Old Town itself, including fragments of early Romanesque churches featuring the attractive plaitwork typical for Dalmatia. A prehistoric ceramic pot and female bust were found on the Pelješac peninsula. There is possibility that museum has been relocated. The museum doesn’t have a permanent display but occasional exhibitions. The Archaeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 32 What to see Climbing Prevlaka Nature Park Gruda 152, Konavle, tel. 79 15 55, fax 79 15 56, www.prevlaka.hr. This adventure park offers loads for active souls - choose between free climbing, paintball, biking or wandering the tunnels. If you’re hungry you can have a bite at their Konoba, and if you’re hot take a dip in the clean sea. Entry 15kn, for climbing and group activities you should call 098 26 14 66. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. sPort 33 Horse riding Kojan koral Popovići, Kokoti 3, Gruda, tel. 098 60 69 29, info@kojankoral.hr, www.kojankoral.hr. Even a total beginner can enjoy a two hour ride in the Konavle countryside: helmets, insurance and moron-proof instructions are provided. Working hours are 08:00 - 12:00 but they’re always available on the 098 mobile number. Sailing YC Orsan H-2, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. 43 59 22/ 43 69 69, jd-orsan@du.t-com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Scuba diving 35(Hotel Dubrovnik President), tel. 098 76 56 85/ 098 24 43 49, diving@apnea.hr, www.dubrovnikdiving.eu. QOpen 09:30 - 19:30. Diving club Dubrovnik H-2, Ivana Zajca 35, tel. 43 57 37/ 098 42 79 63, rk@du-diver.hr, www.du-diver.hr. On Babin Kuk facing the Gruž harbour. Trips depart at 10:00 and 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Navis F/G-1, Copacabana beach, tel. 099 350 27 73, fax 35 65 01, navis@du.t-com.hr, www.navis-dubrovnik. com. Contact one of the numbers above to discuss your needs. QOpen 09:30 - 14:00. Abyss - Diving & Water-sport center G-2, Iva Dulčića B-3, Široka 7, tel. 32 32 42/ 32 32 96. This picturesque gothic town house is the place where Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik government, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibition of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly performed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Marina Držića) to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today, the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and venue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Dubrovnik (1991-92, open 10:00-13:00). The upper galleries were once the place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons. The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the gift shop on the ground floor (open 10:00-23:00), you can buy replicas of these historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly here for research purposes Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which could be reached from within the surrounding houses in what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik. War photo limited C-2, Antuninska 6, tel. 32 21 66, fax 32 21 67, info@warphotoltd.com, www.warphotoltd. com. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war by leading photographers - essential for anyone interested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning - if sometimes disturbing - images. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Sea kayaking Adriatic Kayak tours K-4, Zrinsko Frankopanska 6, tel. 31 27 70/ 091 722 04 13, fax 31 27 69, info@ adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours.com. Booking office at Banje beach. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. LaurAdventure K-4, Istarska 3, tel. 091 930 92 60/ 091 530 25 12, info@laura-adventure.com, www.lauraadventure.com. Sea kayaking, free climbing, trekking. For info call the mobiles above. The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sinagoga i židovski muzej) D-2, Žudioska 5, tel. 32 10 28. The The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery (Galerija Dulčić Masle Pultika) D-3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. 32 31 72, info@ugdubrovnik.hr, umjetnicka.galerija. dubrovnik@du.t-com.hr, www.ugdubrovnik.hr. This fine house next to the palace is home to a gallery with some of the finest views in Europe - the windows look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. On the first floor you’ll find lovely modern pieces in the colourful style emblematic of contemporary Dubrovnik painters, while the second floor shows more traditional works by Croatian masters such as Bukovac and Meštrović.Entrance 30kn. QOpen 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) D-3, Placa bb. For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house – all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built 1516-1522 according Tennis Babin Kuk tennis centre F/G-3, Iva Dulčića bb, tel. 44 76 27. You should call for an appointment to check when there is a free court, 40kn per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Dubrovnik tennis club H-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira bb, tel. 43 73 55/ 43 73 57, fax 43 73 57, glavinic@ net.hr. You need to call for an appointment a day earlier. 50kn/hr during the day, after the lights are on you’ll pay 80kn. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Summer 2008 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 34 MaiL & Phones City codes Zagreb Split Šibenik Zadar Rijeka 01 021 022 023 051 getting around Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or sevendigit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (020 if you’re calling Dubrovnik for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091 or 098. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. 35 Street smart Street Road Passage City centre ulica cesta prolaz centar Square Walk Way Station trg šetalište put stanica 35kn one way, or call a taxi (200kn). Check with your airline for the bus timetable. If you take your car there’s a long stay car park (30kn per day). Car rental 357 04 50, fax. 31 36 87, abc.dubrovnik@gmail.com. For any information call 091 357 04 50. QOpen 00:00 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Adria rent G-3, Masarykov put 9, tel. 43 70 66 / 098 28 53 15, adria.rent@du.t-com.hr, www.adriarent.hr. You can also rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Budget I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 24, tel. 41 89 98/ 099 201 46 38, dbd@budget.hr, www.budget.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Dollar&Thrifty Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Ćilipi, tel. 77 35 88, fax 77 35 89, apt.dubrovnik@subrosa.hr, www. subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Gulliver I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 31, tel. 31 33 21/ 098 39 37 83, fax 41 91 19, rentacar-ploce@gulliver.hr, www.gulliver.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Hertz L-5, Frana Supila 9, tel. 42 50 00/ 091 425 00 01, fax 42 51 11, dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Also at the airport 08:00 - 20:00 every day, tel: 77 15 68, 091 / 425 11 11. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 09:00 - 11:00. A Uni rent Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, tel. 77 34 80, fax 77 34 93, uni-rent@du.t-com.hr, www.uni-rent.net. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A ABC I-2, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. 31 36 36 / 091 Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Dubrovnik is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. T-mobile, V. Nazora 32 (0800) 90 00 Vip, F. Supila 5, tel. 091 77 00 Airline offices Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Dubrovnik Airline Zračna luka Dubrovnik, Ćilipi, tel. 77 37 00, fax 77 37 80, info@dubrovnikairline.com, www.dubrovnikairline.com. Charter airline. They are also available for 24 hours a day only durring Sat and Sun on telephone number 77 37 05. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatia Airlines A-2, Brsalje 9, tel. 41 37 76, fax 41 39 93, dbvto@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Express mail 303 333, fax 31 18 01, dubrovnik@cityexpress.hr, www.cityexpress.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Hugo B-2, Prijeko 13, tel. 32 20 69/ 091 723 20 51. Internet, playstation and PC games, burning photos, scanning and printing. Ring home for cheap too! 5kn / 15min, 20kn / hr QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Netcafe C-2, Prijeko 21, tel. 32 10 25, netcafe_ dubrovnik@yahoo.com, www.netcafe.hr. A sweet and bright little café in the Old Town. 30kn/hr surfing, plus print, copy, scan, fax, burn, connect yourlaptop. QOpen 09:00 01:00. PNB Planet A-2, Put sv. Đurđa 2, tel. 091 524 50 78, zdenko. hilfner@yahoo.com. Coin-operated computers: surf for 30kn an hour or send a mail for 3kn. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Airport Ćilipi, Konavle, tel. 77 33 33/ 77 32 22, www.airportdubrovnik.hr. The advent of well priced tickets for domestic flights means that most people in Dubrovnik get around the country by plane. There are a limited number of tickets selling for rock bottom prices - a single to Zagreb can cost as little as 200kn, but you must reserve your ticket well in advance - or strike it lucky - to get these. International flights are also becoming more affordable with the arrival of budget airlines such as Sky Europe, Germanwings and Norwegian Air Shuttle. See the airline websites for reservations. Getting there: Catch a bus from the main coach station, tickets cost Dubrovnik Airpor t (Zračna luka Dubrovnik) www.inyourpocket.com City Express I-3, Vukovarska 30, tel. 31 18 00/ 0800 Phone cards You can purchase phone cards (telefonska kartica) at any kiosk - they come in 15-100 units and cost 15,30,50 and 100kn respectively. You can also buy pre-paid phone cards which give you substantial discounts when calling abroad. Internet places Dubrovnik Internet Centre K-5, Branitelja Dubrovnika 7, tel. 098 56 47 15. Just outside the Old Town on the Pile side, surf 5kn / 12min and make use of their cheap international calls service. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Du Net G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 36, Hotel Park park, e-park@dunet.hr. This is an outdoor internet park in Lapad bay. 5kn / 10min. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Post Main post office (I-3), Vukovarska 16, tel. 36 20 68QOpen 07:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun cls Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 21 (H-2), tel. 41 26 74QOpen 07:30-21:00, Sat 08:00-12:00 and 18:00-21:00, Sun cls. Široka b.b.(B-2), tel. 32 34 27QOpen 07:30-21:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun cls. Branitelja Dubrovnika 2 (K-5), tel. 41 12 65QOpen 09:00-16:00, Sat and Sun cls. Frana Supila 10 (L-5), tel. 41 37 55QOpen 08:00-12:00 and 18:00-21:00, Sat and Sun cls. Gruška obala 24 (I-2), tel. 41 93 06QOpen 08:00-15:00, Sat and Sun cls.) Wi-fi internet access If you’re out and about with your laptop, you’ll find a growing number of HotSpots in Dubrovnik. Visit one of the following HotSpot locations for wireless internet access: hr. ACI Marina Dubrovnik Komolac b.b., tel. 45 50 21. Airport Čilipi, tel. 77 33 77, www.airport-dubrovnik. Hotel Argentina (M-5), Frana Supila 14, tel. 44 05 Troubadour Hard Jazz Cafe C-3, Bunićeva poljana 55. 2, tel. 32 34 76. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 36 getting around Road help 987 Gas station Gas station (0-24) Komolac, Ogarići 8, tel. 45 34 66; Kupari, Kuparsko polje b.b., tel. 48 67 22, 48 67 26; Ploče, Dalmatinska bb, tel. 67 62 27; Ston, Zaton Doli bb, tel. 75 35 96; Opuzen, Jadranska 6, tel. 67 22 60 getting around Taxi Tel. 0800 14 41. The easiest and simplest way to get a cab is to call 0800 1441, otherwise you’ll find them on the following ranks: Pile, Main Coach Station, Gruž Harbour, Ploče, Lapad. There are no night supplements, you’ll always pay an 25kn start, 8kn per kilometre, 2kn per baggage item and 80kn per hour for waiting. 37 Harbour office Harbour office (Lučka kapetanija) Obala Stjepana Radića 37, tel. 41 89 88, fax 41 89 87, www.mmtpr. hr. 24 hours Info: 41 89 89 Towed away If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot on Starčevićeva ulica (leads from Pile to Gruž). It’s open 24 hours. The bad news is you’ll have to pay a charge of 300kn for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 800kn. Let’s face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English and accept payment by credit card. Long distance coaches Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor) H-1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44a, tel. 060 30 50 70/ 31 32 75, fax 31 32 74, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. Since there’s no railway station in Dubrovnik, the long distance coach has long been the best way to travel to cities in Croatia and abroad. There are frequent services to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful of buses for cities in Germany, Italy, Montenegro and Macedonia. Coach travel is the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croatia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a 14 hour journey! QOpen 05:30 - 22:30. Train Amazing but true, the railway system does not serve Dubrovnik. Inter-railers may consider the Zagreb-Ploče train, travelling via Bosnia and Herzegovina and visiting towns such as Banja Luka, Mostar and Sarajevo. Normal people would probably prefer to avoid this 13-hour odyssey and travel to Split, then continue south by coach, especially since the Zagreb-Split fast train now takes less than six hours, or you can take the sleeper. Drivers can rest up and escape tourist traffic by loading their car on a train at 186 - 260kn, travelling to Split and then continuing south. However, since the ZagrebSplit motorway has reduced journey times from to about 5 hours (traffic permitting), many people choose to drive or take the coach. A final touring option is the Ploče-Sarajevo-OsijekBudapest route, which takes the best part of 17 hours. Low cost airlines Flybe, www.flybe.com. Myair, www.myair.com. Norwegian Air Shuttle, www.norwegian.com. Parking There’s one problem with having a town clustered within city walls - there’s nowhere to park. When the tourist season is at its height, parking is almost impossible - the car parks around the centre are barely sufficient for the locals. So do make sure that your hotel secures parking for you. If not, try to find a parking spot on the Lapad peninsula and enjoy Dubrovnik for what it is - a city of pedestrians. There are several 24hr guarded car parks located around the city walls, and one at the Gruž harbour. You’ll pay 10kn/hr during the summer, and space is limited. See the maps at the back of the guide for locations. Travel Agencies 25 70, fax 32 36 09, atlas.pile@atlas.hr, www.atlascroatia.com. One of the biggies - all kinds of trips in store. Fancy trying a canoe or jeep safari? Step this way... QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A Dubrovnik Travel I-2/3, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. 31 35 55, fax 31 35 50, info@dubrovniktravel.hr, www. dubrovniktravel.hr. Excursions and cruises can be yours! QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. A Elite I-3, Vukovarska 17, tel. 35 82 00, fax 35 83 03, elite@elite.hr, www.elite.hr. Everything from horseriding to sailing in a fabulous 16th century galleon. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Globtour C-2, Prijeko 12, tel. 32 15 99, fax 32 15 90, globtour1@globdu.hr, www.globtour.hr. Visit their website to explore a world of possibilities, including a stay in your very own lighthouse! There’s a branch on Stradun open daily 08:00-20:00, tel. 32 33 12. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Perla Adriatica M-5 / L-5, Frana Supila 2, tel. 42 27 66/ 098 37 79 54, perla-adriatica@du.htnet.hr. By the Ploče gates, a good place to try if you’re looking for private accommodation. Also excursions, rental of bikes, scooters and boats, plus exchange services. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Vivado Šetalište M.Marojice bb, Mlini, tel./fax 48 64 71, tel. 098 69 96 13, vivado@du.t-com.hr, www.vivado. hr. An agency in Mlini organising fish picnics to the islands. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Atlas A-2 / K-5, Sv. Đurđa 1, Pile, tel. 44 25 74/ 44 Text message parking Croatia was the first ever country to introduce payment by text message for street parking! It’s so simple. Look for the sign to see which zone you’re in. Send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the four digit number shown. Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them. Different zones have different max waiting times and prices. Public transport City buses, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, freedom!) You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are. They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the company’s website (sorry, no English) or any number of placards or fliers in the city for a route map. Tickets are cheaper from news kiosks - 8kn for a single journey, or 10kn from the driver. Stamp your ticket on entry. www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 38 getting around Side trip Poor Zagreb. It’s a city of almost a million people – a fourth of the nation– and the cultural, scientific, industrial and governmental center of Croatia. Yet the slick travel writing, the television spots awash in blue water and golden sunlight usually focus on the coast. But Zagreb is a treat to visit, possibly as a counterpoint to a stay on the Croatian coast. That’s because when thousands of tourists are wedged between Dalmatian city walls or blanketing the beaches, Zagreb quietly goes about its own business. And in winter, while the coast is quiet except for the icy bura wind, Zagreb’s streets and cafes are lively. When Dubrovnik was a trading power and Split and Zadar were Venetian ports, Zagreb was an outpost on the Austro-Hungarian frontier. But 19th Century prosperity brought monumental civic and cultural buildings and modernization to its streets. As a result, Zagreb is a pleasantly walkable city. You can see its Centar in a few hours, but an extra day, or two, allows you to see interesting museums and a show at the lovely National Theatre or Lisinski Concert Hall. You can buy tickets for plays, operas and ballets at the box office and website of each venue. Any visit to Zagreb has to begin at its main square, Trg Bana Jelačića, named for the 19th Century Croatian governor still honored for abolishing serfdom and promoting Croatian autonomy. His equestrian statue faces south; originally it aimed north, toward his Hungarian foes. Nearby is Zagreb’s neo-Gothic cathedral, rebuilt by the Austrian architect Hermann Bolle after an 1880 earthquake. At Dolac, the city’s main market, you can buy all kinds of fresh foods. Zagreb used to be two towns, the religious center Kaptol, with the cathedral, and commercial and civil Gradec. The lovely pedestrian street Tkalčićeva and its trendy shops, restaurants and cafes originally was the boundary between them. The Kamenita Gate, the medieval entrance to Gradec, is a candlelit shrine. Votive plaques thanking Mary for answered prayers line its walls. Gradec remains the seat of Croatia’s government, but also has several restaurants and cafes, galleries and museums. The City Museum tells Zagreb’s story from primitive village to present day. Klovićevi Dvori Gallery hosts art exhibitions of international renown. A funicular railway descends to “Donji Grad,” the lower city. Beware of the noon firing of the cannon from the Lotrščak Tower. It has a way of surprising people. Perhaps Zagreb’s loveliest square is Zrinjevac, named for Nikola Šubić Zrinski, a 16th Century hero. On the square is Zagreb’s Archaeology Museum, home to thousands of artifacts. Zrinjevac is also a great place for art. The Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters consists of pre-Renaissance to 19th Century works from the collection of Bishop Juraj Strossmayer; for more recent works, check out the Modern Art Gallery. The Art Pavilion, originally built for a Hungarian exposition, dismantled and rebuilt between Zrinjevac and the main train station, produces temporary art shows. But Zrinjevac is a pleasant place to rest in its own right, under tall shade trees, with the rush of a fountain and among bright flower gardens. Summer concerts are held on Saturdays at the gazebo. getting around 39 www.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 40 getting around International bus schedule From Dubrovnik Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 10:30 05:00 09:30 15:30 17:15 08:00 17:15 05:00 02:15 08:00 22:30 04:40 08:30 Destination BUDVA FRANKFURT HERCEG NOVI HERCEG NOVI MEĐUGORJE MOSTAR MOSTAR MUNICH PODGORICA SARAJEVO SARAJEVO SKOPJE TRIESTE To Dubrovnik Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Arr. 17:00 14:45 11:00 17:00 10:30 10:15 13:40 14:45 16:15 05:10 13:40 18:00 17:00 getting around Ferries and boats Jadrolinija, S. Radića 40, Dubrovnik, tel.41 80 00, fax.41 81 11, www.jadrolinija.hr, open daily 08:00-20:00. Mediteranska plovidba, Foša 2, Korčula, tel.71 11 56, fax. 71 11 57, www.medplov.hr, info@medplov.hr, ticket office open as long as ferry runs (you should be there half an hour earlier) International line Jadrolinija international ferry Dubrovnik-Bari On Mon, Tue and Wed ferry leaves Dubrovnik at 23:00 and gets to Bari 08:00 next morning. On Fri leaves at 11:30 and gets to Bari 19:30, on Sat. leaves at 16:00, gets to Bari 22:00 and on Sun leaves 12:30, gets to Bari 20:00. From Bari ferries depart at 22:00 on Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri and Sun and get to Dubrovnik 07:00 next morning. On Sat ferry leaves at 23:59 and gets to Dubrovnik also at 07:00. Local lines Jadrolinja ferry Prapratno (Pelješac peninsula) - Sobra (Mljet island) From Prapratno From Sobra 07:00 (Sun 09:00) 06:00 10:15 (Sun 11:00) 09:00 (Sun 10:00) 13:00 12:00 17:00 (Mon and Wed 18:00) 16:00 20:30 19:00 Medplov ferry Orebić (Pelješac peninsula) - Dominče (Korčula island) From Orebić 1st leaves at 04:00 (except Sun and holidays) then 05:30 and every hour up to 15:30 (except the one at 07:20), then 16:45, 18:00, 19:30, 21:00, 22:30, last 00:30 From Korčula 1st leaves at 03:30 (except Sun and holdays) then 05:00, every hour up to 16:00, 17:30, 19:00, 20:00, 22:00, last 24:00. 41 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Domestic bus schedule From Dubrovnik Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Dep. 07:00 19:00 18:00 15:00 05:00 11:00 21:00 08:00 18:00 17:15 08:00 15:30 06:30 15:30 17:00 15:30 07:00 11:00 16:30 21:00 05:00 11:00 17:00 08:00 15:30 17:15 06:00 11:00 06:00 15:30 18:00 21:00 Destination KARLOVAC KARLOVAC KNIN KORČULA - VELA LUKA MAKARSKA MAKARSKA MAKARSKA METKOVIĆ METKOVIĆ OSIJEK PLOČE PULA RIJEKA RIJEKA RIJEKA ROVINJ SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT SPLIT ŠIBENIK ŠIBENIK ŠIBENIK TROGIR TROGIR VARAŽDIN ZADAR ZADAR ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB ZAGREB To Dubrovnik Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Arr. 07:15 11:15 10:30 09:50 05:45 10:50 18:30 09:15 14:00 10:30 12:45 10:50 10:50 19:30 21:45 10:50 07:15 11:15 16:20 20:40 08:30 14:30 21:45 08:30 19:30 20:30 08:30 14:30 06:45 11:15 11:30 18:00 Medplov ferry Korčula - Drvenik (11. 07 - 31. 08.) Leaves Korčula at 04:30, 10:30 and 16:30 (20.06. - 10.07. only at 05:15 and 14:30) Leaves Drvenik 07:30, 13:30 and 19:15 (20.06. - 10.07. only at 08:30 and 17:30) Medplov passanger boats Orebić (Pelješac peninsula) - Korčula (Korčula island) From Orebić on weekdays you have 1st sail at 05:20 (05:00 from Korčula) for catching Lovor/Tamaris connection to catamaran Korčula - Split, it doesn’t sail if catamaran is canceled After it departs from Orebić at 07:20 (not weekends and holidays), 09:30, every hour or two till 20:20, (21:30 and 23:20 11.06. - 31.08.) From Korčula boat runs at 07:00 (not weekends and holidays), 09:00, every hour or two till 20:00 (21:00 and 23:00 11.06 - 31.08.) Jadrolinija ferry From Ploče 05:00 07:30 10:15 12:30 15:00 17:30 20:00 Ploče - Trpanj (Pelješac peninsula) From Trpanj 06:15 09:00 11:15 13:30 16:30 18:45 21:00 Jadrolinja katamaran Split - Hvar - Vela luka - Ubli (Lastovo island) Sails from Split every day at 15:00, gets to Hvar at 15:50, V.Luka at 16:45 and reaches Ubli at 17:45. Sails from Ubli Mon to Sat at 04:25 (Sun 07:00), gets to V.Luka at 05:10 (07:45), Hvar 06:15 (08:45) and reaches Split 07:30 (Sun 10:00). Jadrolinija ferry Split - Vela Luka (Korčula island) - Ubli (Lastovo island) Ferry sails from Split at 17:30, stops at Vela Luka and gets to Ubli at 22:00. From V. Luka there are additional lines at 09:30 and 13:45 that gets to Ubli at 11:00 and 15:15. From Ubli ferry runs at 04:30 and gets to Split at 09:00.There are additional lines from Ubli to Vela Luka at 11:30 and 17:30 reaching it at 13:00 and 19:00. Korčula - Prigradica - Hvar - Split (01.06. - 30.09. Tickets: Marko Polo tours, tel. 71 54 00 on Korčula, Jadrolinija Split shop on the peir) - it docks to Prigradica only if weather conditions alow. From Korčula leaves at 06:00, comes to Prigradica at 06:35, Hvar at 07:25 and reaches Split 08:30. From Split leaves at 17:00, gets to Hvar at 17:50, Prigradica 18:50 and reaches Korčula 19:25. Krilo catamaran Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 42 getting around Domestic flight schedule From Dubrovnik Days -2 - - - - - - 3 - - - - 3 - - - - - - -5 - - - - - - 67 12345 - - - - - - 6 - - - - 5 - - 2 - - - - - - -4 - - 12 - - - - -2 - - - - - - - - 5 - - -3 - - - - -3 - - 6 - - - - - - 7 Dep. 09:45 19.15 14:15 20:05 06:05 06:25 07:55 12:50 13:40 14:45 15:50 16:15 16:20 19:15 19:50 21:50 getting around To Dubrovnik Arr. Destination Days 10:55 OSIJEK -2 - - - - 20:15 PULA - - 3 - - -14:50 SPLIT - - 3 - - -20:24 SPLIT - - - - 607:00 ZAGREB - - - - 5-07:20 ZAGREB - - 3 - - -08:50 ZAGREB -2-4-613:45 ZAGREB - - - - - - 7 14:35 ZAGREB 1 - - - - -15:40 ZAGREB 12 - - -616:45 ZAGREB - - - - 5-17:30 ZAGREB - - 3 - - 617:15 ZAGREB - - - - 5-21:30 ZAGREB - - 3 - - 67 20:45 ZAGREB 12-45-22:45 ZAGREB - - - - -6Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun 43 Dep. 14:35 07:20 18:00 21:00 05:45 06:00 06:20 07:00 12:05 14:15 14:20 14:30 14:45 21:00 21:20 22:55 Arr. 15:45 08:15 18:35 21:35 06:40 08:15 07:15 07:55 13:00 15:10 15:15 15:25 15:10 21:55 22:15 23:50 International flight schedule From Dubrovnik Days 1 - - - - - - - - - - -7 -2345 - - -3-5 - - - - - - 61-3-5-12345 - - -3 - - 6 - - - - 5 - - 2 - - - - 1 - - 4 - - - - 3 - - 6 - - - - - - 7 -2 - - - - - - - - -6-2 - - - - - - 3 - - -12345 - - - - -5 - - -3 - - 6 - - 3-5-12-4 - - - - - - -6 - - 3 - - 61 - - -5-7 1 - - - - - - - - - - 61 - - -5-1 - - - - - - - - 4 - - -3 - - -1234567 Dep. 13:40 12:00 06:25 16:20 06:05 06:25 06:25 16:00 07:30 08:15 12:05 16:00 12:00 08:15 06:05 06:25 06:25 06:25 16:20 16:00 14:40 06:25 06:05 16:00 16:40 06:10 06:10 16:00 20:35 17:20 16:00 15:25 Arr. 16:10 17:10 10:30 22:00 09:45 10:25 10:25 22:35 09:35 10:20 14:10 21:50 19:05 15:25 11:00 11:00 11:00 10:25 19:50 19:30 17:10 10:35 10:35 17:05 17:50 13:00 15:10 22:15 23:15 21:00 21:00 16:50 Destination AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM AMSTERDAM BARI BRUXELLES BRUXELLES BRUXELLES CATANIA FRANKFURT FRANKFURT FRANKFURT GENOA ISTANBUL LISABON LONDON(LHR) LONDON(LHR) LONDON(LHR) MUNICH MUNICH PALERMO PARIS PARIS PARIS ROMA ROMA SKOPJE SKOPJE SKOPJE TEL AVIV TEL AVIV TURIN VIENNA To Dubrovnik Days 1 - - - - - - -3 - - - - - - - - -7 - - 3 - - -12 - - - - -2 - - - - - - - - - - 7 - - 3 - - 61 - - - - - - - - 4 - - - - - - -6 - - 3 - - - - 2 - - - - 1 - - 4 - - -2 - - - - - - - - -6 - - 3 - - -1 - - - - - - - - -5 - - -3 - - 6 - - 3-5-1 - - - - 6 - - -4 - - 1 - - -5-7 - - 3 - - 61 - - -5 - - 2 - - - - - - - - -6 - - -4 - - - - -4 - - - - 3 - - -1234567 Dep. 17:00 11:20 11:20 14:35 11:10 18:20 18:20 14:15 14:50 14:50 18:50 15:00 11:00 08:35 11:50 16:40 17:00 08:45 11:05 15:30 11:35 11:35 17:30 14:40 18:00 06:25 15:50 19:50 21:00 22:00 14:40 13:10 Arr. 19:10 15:45 15:10 19:10 15.10 22:15 21:55 19:10 16:35 16:35 20:35 19:10 15:10 16:35 22:15 21:55 21:55 13:00 15:15 19:10 13:50 15:10 22:15 15:50 19:10 15:20 22:15 22:45 23:50 23:50 19:10 14:40 ... Ferries and boats Jadrolinija boat (21.06 - 31.08.) Dubrovnik - Koločep - Lopud - Šipan From Dubrovnik on weekdays and Sat. boats leaving at 10:00, 13:30 and 16:00 gets to Koločep, Lopud and dock in Suđurad at 11:05, 14:35 and 17:05. The last one that leaves at 20:00 stops at every port and will take you to Luka Šipanska (21:40). On Sundays and holidays boats leave Dubrovnik at 09:00,11:30, 18:15 till Suđurad, getting there at 10:05,12:35 and 19:20. The one going all the way leaves at 20:45 arriving in Luka Šipanska at 22:30. From Luka Šipanska there is only one line during day on weekdays and Sat that stops in every port at 05:30 getting to Dubrovnik at 07:10. Three times a day boat leaves Suđurađ (11:15,14:35 and 18:35) arriving to Dubrovnik at 13:00, 15:25 and 19:40. Sundays and holidays line leaving 07:00 stops in every port and gets to Dubrovnik at 08:40, others are leaving at 10:10, 17:00 and 19:30 getting to Dubrovnik at 11:12, 18:05 and 20:35. Jadrolinija ferry Dubrovnik - Sobra(Mljet island) From Dubrovnik daily at 14:30 (Mon and Wed 15:30) reaching Sobra at 17:00. Additional line from Dubrovnik to Suđurad on Mon and Wed at 10:00 getting there at 11:00. From Sobra daily at 06:30 reaching Dubrovnik at 09:00, on Mon and Wed from Suđurad also at 14:00 getting to Dubrovnik at 15:00. Nona Ana catamaran Dubrovnik - Luka Šipanska - Sobra (Mljet island) - Korčula - Lastovo (only during July and August), you get tickets on dock before boarding, on Korčula in Marco Polo Tours and Korkyra agency. From Dubrovnik leaving on Tue and Thu at 08:00 getting to Korčula 10:45, Lastovo at 11:15. From Lastovo leaving on Tue and Thu at 14:40 getting to Korčula 16:00, Dubrovnik at 18:35. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket is not responsible for schedule changes 1 - Mon, 2 - Tue, 3 - Wed, 4 - Thu, 5 - Fri, 6 - Sat, 7 - Sun www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2008 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 44 shoPPing Tilda D-2, Zlatarska 1, tel. 32 15 54. Original Konavle handicrafts: slippers, jewellery, greetings cards and more. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Trinity C-2, Palmotićeva 2, tel. 32 23 50/ 098 45 18 40, fax 32 23 49, kruno@gmx.com, www.trinity. hr. Experience the exclusive jewelry designs of Max Šedlar whose unique works can be found in prestigious Beverly Hill boutiques not to mention numerous other galleries across the world. Šedlar is a designer who tries to preserve the original shape of his materials with his craftsmanship, thus maintaining their original beauty. It’s contemporary, it’s dynamic and it’s absolutely worth a visit. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. A shoPPing 45 Cosmetics www.dm-drogeriemarkt.hr. The place to pick up anything from shampoo to mascara. Also at Doc shopping centre at Lapad. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Kosmo B-2, Široka 3, tel. 32 47 70, kozmo@kozmo. com.hr, www.kozmo.com. Croatian chain of drugstores. Get all your beach essentials here! QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. A Lush B-2, Široka 4, tel. 32 47 97, lush3@htnet.com, www.lush.com. All-natural hand-made soaps and perfumes from England to make you smell fruity and fresh. You’ll smell the shop before you even see it. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A Rituals Splitska 1, Metković, tel. 68 34 33, renata. volarevic09@gmail.com, www.globalrelax.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Drogerie Markt I-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. 45 68 00, Art galleries inet.hr, www.cro-art-design.com. A terrifyingly large display of jewellery made with semi-precious stones, including pieces in traditional Dubrovnik style. A super old building and courtyard. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. A Antiques Tezoro C-2, Između Polača 13, tel./fax 32 35 23. Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik - jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware... Q Mon to Fri 09:00-12:00;18:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-13:00, Closed Sun. A Artur D-3, Zlatarska 1, tel. 32 37 73/ 098 28 53 98, arturgallery@hotmail.com. A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian art and jewellery. They also have art work shops durring whole year so if you are interested you know what to do... QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A Baboon I-4, Dr. Vlatka Mačeka 30, tel. 33 17 50/ 098 85 72 79, anamilasevic@yahoo.com. Handmade jewellery, paper flowers and original gifts. Q Mon to Fri 09:00-12:00 and 16:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. A Ivana Bačura D-2, Zlatarska 3, tel. 32 20 03/ 091 543 13 21, ibacura@net.hr, www.ivanabacura.com. A young jewelry designer, whose artistic approach and originality will amaze you. Her appealing creations are diverse, eclectic and most importantly a means of self-expression. Bačura belongs to a generation of young Croatian jewelry designers and you can expect a range of accessories that are refreshing and imaginative. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Kike C-3, Kralja Tomislava 7, tel. 32 32 90/ 091 250 65 25, kristina.skvrce@gmail.com, www.kike-dekor-du. hr. A florist’s atelier selling arrangements of fresh and dried flowers. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Kuća Bukovac Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. 47 86 46, muzeji-i-galerije-konavala@du.t-com.hr. Q Open Mon Sat 09:00 - 13:00 and 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Delicatessen 09:00 - 20:30. Palma L-5, Frana Supila 10, tel. 091 55 39 608/ 091 51 42 018, www.dubrovnik-advance.com/palma. Unique ornaments made from palm wood, prices from 100kn. QOpen 09:30 - 13:00 and 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 13:00. Closed Sun. Romana atelier C-3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. 091 584 49 46/ 091 50 13 318, info@romana-milutin.com, www. romana-milutin.com. Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00 and 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Ronchi D-3, Lučarica 2, tel. 32 36 99/ 098 82 04 16, ronchi@dubrovnik-online.hr, www.dubrovnik-online. com/ronchi. Need to wear a hat but don’t want to look like a chump? This is your place - a milliners established in 1858, still making superbly stylish hats using traditional methods. Q Open Mon - Fri 09:30 - 13:00 and 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Sebastian D-2, Sv. Dominika 5, tel./fax 32 14 90, tel. 091 505 51 16, galerija.sebastian@gmail.com. An important gallery exhibiting works by leading Dubrovnik and Croatian artists. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Sv. Luka C-2, Žuljanska 2, tel. 32 16 03/ 098 61 79 37, fax 35 65 38, bkurilic@globalnet.hr. See works of Croatian artists inside a pre-Romanesque church dating back to the 9th century. Q Open Mon - Sat 10:00 - 15:00 and 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. A Talir B-2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. 32 32 93, info@talirdubrovnik.hr, www.talir-dubrovnik.hr. Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croatian artists for sale. Also at Antuninska 5 where there’s a nice café next door. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00. A Đardin C-2, Miha Pracata 8, tel. 32 47 44, mm.design@ Munčjela B-2, Od Puča 13, tel. 32 31 84. A place to pick up a piece of traditional Konavle embroidery. QOpen Dubrovačka kuća D-2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. 32 20 92, fax 32 20 91, ars.longa@du.t-com.hr, www.dubrovackakuca.com. A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spirits, all local or Croatian. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Franja coffee & teahouse C-3, Od Puča 9, tel./fax 32 48 16, franjahouse@franja.hr, www.franja.hr. A Croatian coffee company, also selling all other kinds of souvenirwrapped delicatessen and porcelain. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A Kraš C-2, Zamanjina 2, tel./fax 32 10 49, tel. 32 10 62, www.kras.hr. The confectionary company Croatians have known and loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, or a bag of Krašotice biscuits. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A Vinoteka Miličić C-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 17 77, fax 41 67 73, www.dubrovnik-advance.com/vinoteka-milicic. Try their own wines from the Pelješac peninsula, or top quality fruit spirits, local candies and preserves. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A Nautical supplies Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Top Marine I-3, Nikole Tesle 2, Minčeta department store, tel./fax 35 70 17. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Lalizas Marina Na skali 4, Komolac, ACI Marina, tel./ fax 45 40 73, penul@penul.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Summer 2008 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket 46 business directory Emergency numbers Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard 92 93 94 9155 business directory 47 www.inyourpocket.com Business Connections K-5, Don Frana Bulića 6, tel. 43 30 00, fax 43 30 01, american.college@acmt.hr, www.acmt.hr. American College of Managemet and Technology Croatian Chamber of Economy - Dubrovnik County Chamber J-4, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel./fax 41 20 44, hgkdu@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Banks & Exchanges tel. 062 37 46 85/ 0800 7890 free info, fax 062 37 46 86, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo-alpe-adria bank I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 26a, tel. 43 19 00, fax 43 19 90, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. OTP banka I-3, Vukovarska 19, tel. 062 20 15 55, fax 062 20 12 69, www.otpbanka.hr. Also at Placa 16, Stradun, tel. 32 10 19 QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka I-2, Obala S.Radića 8, tel. 72 01 00/ 72 01 03, fax 72 00 03, pbz365@pbz.hr, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen bank I-3, Vukovarska 17, tel. 44 18 00, fax 44 18 08, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Volksbank I-3, Vukovarska 36, tel. 35 89 00, fax 35 89 10, www.volksbank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka I-3, Vukovarska 7, tel. 35 84 20, fax 35 84 14, www.zaba.hr. Also at Gundulićeva Poljana bb, tel. 32 40 58, 32 40 57, fax. 32 40 56 with same working hours. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Erste&Steiermarkische Bank I-3, Vukovarska 26, Euro info Centre Relay Dubrovnik J-4, Pera Ćingrije 6, tel. 31 20 99, www.euroinfo.hr; www.hgk.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Consulates 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands H-3, Od sv. Mihajla 1, tel. 35 61 41/ 35 61 33, fax 35 67 29, ajerkovic@atlant.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark H-3, Od sv. Mihajla 1, tel. 35 67 33/ 098 20 62 97, fax 35 61 48, pmusladin@atlant.hr. QOpen Real estate Alavija nekretnine I-2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 29, tel. Colliers International F-2, Kardinala Stepinca 64, tel. 098 20 30 82, info@alavija-nekretnine.hr, www.alavijanekretnine.hr. 43 72 00/ 43 72 01, fax 43 72 09, ivana.bucevic@ colliers.com, www.colliers.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 31 22 26, info@croatiansun.com, www.croatiansun. com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Dubrovnik Sun Vukovarska 17, tel. 35 86 60/ 098 906 61 81, fax 35 86 61, info@dubrovniksun.com, www.dubrovniksun.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Pro Krečak I-3, Put Republike 12, tel. 43 66 02, fax 43 66 01, pro-krecak@du.t-com.hr, www.nekretnineprokrecak.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Croatian Sun H-3, Iva Vojnovića 52, tel. 31 22 28, fax Tax free heaven Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.  Dubrovnik telephone code is +385-20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 48 LifestyLe directory dubrovnik neretva county Korčula Korčula, birthplace of the renowned traveler, Marco Polo, is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. It’s well worth a few days stay and a perfect place to recharge your batteries. Adio Mare, a local landmark; and Aborda, located in the ACI marina, offers a creative Croatian menu and top notch service. Those looking for a decent pizza, should check out Leut, Fortuna and Agava. Under no circumstances should you miss Smiljana’s cookies at Cukarin, they are unique as the island itself. For something different, head to Fresh, the first wraps and smoothies bar in Croatia. Serving up tastes from Asia, Mexico and the Med, Fresh also offers a free book exchange and foreign newspapers and magazines. Fur ther a field, you’ll find some culinar y gems. Highly recommended are the following: Grubinjac, on the road between Korčula and Zrnovo, has lovely dining terraces surrounded by olive trees and old stonewalls. Great place to feast while catching the sun going down; Mate in Pupnat serves up great food, wine, and peace.The menu is unique, their goat cheese with wild fennel tortellini will leave you in awe; Maslina en route to Lumbarda is popular with locals for a variety of well prepared dishes served by its friendly owners; and last but not least, Zure in Lumbarda is known for a fantastic homemade pomegranate alcohol and great seafood. 49 Dry cleaners & Laundries 09:00 - 17:00. Domić K-5, Od kolorine 3, tel. 42 13 31. Dry cleaners. Open Mon to Fri 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-15:00, Sun cls. Elegant I-2, Andrije Hebranga 106, tel. 098 42 86 71. Dry cleaners. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Sunce I-2, Andrije Hebranga 8, tel. 41 25 18. Laundry QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Dea J-4, Pera Čingrije 8, tel. 33 33 47/ 098 964 49 20, okah@net.hr. Laundry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun fauna@du.t-com.hr, www.dubrovnik-veterina.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Veterinary clinic Dubrovnik J-4, Vladimira Nazora 37, tel. 42 46 96/ 098 45 04 14, fax 31 15 28, veterinar ska.ambulanta.dubrovnik@du.htnet.hr. Veterinary clinic. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fauna I-2, Rožat 32, tel. 45 14 66, fax 45 37 79, v.a- Pharmacies 07:00-20:00, Sun cls. English books & newspapers www.algoritam.hr. Books , magazines, newspapers, maps in many languages. Q Open: Mon to Fri 09:00-20:30 Sat 09:00-13:00, Sun 10:00-13:00 and 18:00-22:00. A Tisak kiosk B-2, Placa bb, tel. 32 14 26. Also offers lots of newspapers and magazines in different lenguages. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Gruž (H-1), Obala Pape Ivana Pavla 9, tel. 41 89 90 QOpen 07:00-20:00, Sun cls. Kod zvonika (C-2), Placa 2, tel. 32 11 33QOpen Kod male braće (B-2), Placa 30, tel. 32 14 11 QOpen07:00-19:30, Sun cls. Lapad (H-3), M. Vodopića 31, tel. 43 67 78 QOpen Algoritam C-2, Placa 8, tel. 32 20 44, fax 32 20 43, Hospital General Hospital H-4, Roka Mišetica 2, tel. 431 777, fax 42 61 49, uprava@bolnica-du.hr, www.bolnica-du. hr. 07:00-20:00, Sun cls. Mišković Trumbićev put 2, Cavtat, tel. 47 82 61 QOpen07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 15:00, Sun cls. Night shifts, Sun and holidays each week are covered by either Kod Zvonika pharmacy (weeks beginning 16th, continuing every other week), or Gruž pharmacy (weeks beginning 9th, again continuing every other week). Police station Coast guard I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 22, tel. 44 35 55, fax 44 35 00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Police station K-4, Dr. Ante Starčevića 13, tel. 44 37 39/ 44 33 33, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Traffic police I-2, Andrije Hebranga 118, tel. 44 36 66, www.mup.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Pets 098 24 39 38, goran.vet@du.t-com.hr. Veterinary clinic for small pets, emergency calls on 098 / 24 39 38. QOpen Mon to Fri 08:30-12:00 and 17:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-12:00, Sun cls. Q A Bobanović K-4, Dr. Ante Starčevića 33, tel. 35 73 45/ Things to see and do: The best way to enjoy Korčula is to be without a plan. It doesn’t take long to wander through the old town where there are many opportunities for shutterbugs. Pay attention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief figures on the cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the main entrance. The town museum and the local galleries can be fitted into a casual morning stroll. For a culture fix during the evening, check out the Moreška sword dance, originally performed across the Mediterranean since the 12th century, it’s still very much alive and a proud Korčulan tradition. If you are looking for more of an active holiday, you can book kayak and snorkeling trips or rent bicycles from any of the tourist agencies in town. Trekking tours are also available. For those looking to go a little bit deeper, talk to the nice English couple that set up Dupin Diving center near the Hotel Bon Repos. You also can’t go wrong renting a scooter or bike and heading towards the village of Lumbarda where you’ll find an actual sandy beach reachable through picturesque vineyards. You must try the Grk wine, only produced in the surrounding area, and said to have been brought from ancient Greece after the fall of Troy. Wander the stone streets of the old village and feel miles and centuries away from everything else. If the summer heat gets so overbearing that even a bathing suit is too much to take, jump in a water taxi to the nearby island of Badija, home to an old Franciscan monastery, where skinny dipping, although not obligatory, is welcome. Restaurants: If you are looking for a bite out in the old town of Korčula, there are many restaurants to choose from. Some highlights include: Mareta, run by a friendly Croatian/ German couple, offers a tasty traditional menu with a twist; Marinero, two fisherman brothers who serve some of the freshest of seafood in town; Morski Konjić 1, an intimate, traditional konoba well known for its grill and Dalmatian fare; Nightlife: While Korčula is not known for its nightlife you will be pleased to kick back for sunset cocktails at Tramonto or Massimo. Dno Dna is a funky bar that you would expect to find in places like Tokyo or New York. Small with a crazy interior designer, you’ll find interesting fixtures (including the many locals who frequent the place) and friendly bar staff. Fresh offers a great 2 for 1 happy hour. Later in the evening, mingle with local youth at Dos Locos before hitting Gaudi, a disco located in one of the oldest arsenals on the Adriatic and one of the only places where you can dance until early morning birds start chirping. Places to Stay: Korčula Backpacker (Korčula town, Korčula) Run by a wild young South African/Croatian, this is possibly the top hostel in Croatia. Situated in a lovely restored villa, it is a party place where you may find that your stay keeps getting longer and longer. Beware the beer bongs. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 50 dubrovnik neretva county Lastovo Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours. Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989, so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an untouched ecological paradise. Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, a sense of the breath of ages. La s tovo to wn s i ts uphill in a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets, those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will wonder at a cul ture so very detached from modern urban life. Lastovo is a town of chimn eys. In tim es past, a sign of the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad” - the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with firecrackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and black with embroidered braces and hats decked with colourful flowers. With so little (except carnivals) to disturb th em, fish ad ore Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here. Yachties far and wide religiously attend Konoba Triton at Zaklopatica, known for working magic with fresh fish and local capers. Lastovo has poor transpor t connections, few shops, and there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow passage of time here, this could well be the start of an enduring love affair. Mljet - Odysseus’ isle Getting There and Around: These days regular ferries provide services to and from the mainland; daily connections from Dubrovnik and Prapratno on the peninsula of Pelješac to Sobra. Two ferry types are available to/from Dubrovnik, a car ferry and a catamaran. During the summer season there are also connections with Korčula, Lastovo and Bari. dubrovnik neretva county 51 Mljet is cca 5 miles away from the peninsula of Pelješac, cca 12 miles away from Korčula and cca 23 miles from Dubrovnik. Sobra is the main port of the island. The best sheltered harbours are Polače and Okuklje, very popular among yachtsmen. Where to stay: Mljet has just one hotel, but with two campgrounds and a pleth ora of pri vate rooms and apartments, there is enough accommodation to triple the island’s population during the summer. For information about private accommodation, you can contact the island’s tourist offices at the Sobra ferry port, (tel. 74 60 25, tz.mljet@ du.t-com.hr and in Polače tel. 74 41 86, tz-mjesta@ du.htnet.hr). Hotels Camp Marina (tel. 74 50 71) is in Ropa, on the southern coast. The turnoff is about halfway between Babino Polje and Goveđari. Mungos campground (tel.74 53 00, 74 52 24) is on the main road just west of Babino Polje. Hotel Odisej Pomena b.b., tel. 36 21 11, fax 74 40 42, info@hotelodisej.hr, www.hotelodisej.hr Located in Pomena, about an hour’s drive from the Sobra port, the Odisej has just about all you’ll need for a pleasant stay on Mljet. The rooms have air conditioning, but you if you get a room with a balcony and view over the harbour, you may just want to enjoy the fresh breeze. The hotel offers a restaurant, spa and exercise room, kiddie pool, and a pizzeria, hair salon and souvenir shop nearby. Both of the main vehicle rental, scuba and sailing companies post agents and their products out front. (Prices are per person and include breakfast. 157 rooms, 12 singles, 139 doubles, 2 4-person apartments. There are four sets of family rooms, each of which consists of two rooms that can be joined.) Sounds of Mljet: A breeze brushing through pine boughs... the flapping of a sail out in the channel, heard from high on a seaside ridge ... the bray of a donkey. Silence. Mljet gets a growing share of tourists, but as one of the more remote and l e s s d evel op e d islands, with limited fer r y s er vi c e, i t lacks the kind of mass tourism of mu ch of t h e Dalmatian coast and some oth er more accessible islands. This isn’t the place to come for late night bars, concerts, discos. One might hope it never will be. A n d y e t , M lj e t isn’t that hard to reach, if you try. By catamaran, it’s as close as an hour from Dubrovnik. Ferries from Dubrovnik, are slower but perhaps more appropriate for a leisurely visit to the island (and making a stopover in Šipan) take a couple of pleasant hours. Another ferry connects the island with Prapratno (Pelješac peninsula). Be prepared to fall in love with nature all over again, for this island has a stunning landscape waiting for you to discover. Croatia’s 8th largest island is approximately 3 km wide and 37 km long, making it attractive to explore for a short or lengthier stop. It has an area of roughly 100 square km with 131 km of coastline and many little niches and coves to discover, so you’d be forgiven for wanting to stay. With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the “Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography of the hills that rise steeply above th e sea and plummet back in to deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several types of corals. With fan tas ti c wea t h er, sailing, recreational sp or ts, swimmin g, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National Park since 1960. The ancient Greeks who settled here left the first record of the place, calling it Melissa or Melitta, (meaning, bee; honey) because of the many bees that made their home there. Greek settlers became familiar with this island whilst colonising nearby Vis (Issa), Hvar (Pharos) and Korčula (Korkiru). Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 52 dubrovnik neretva county The Illyrians settled the entire island in the 2nd Century BC, leaving graves and traces of military fortifications and settlements in seven places, on hills near water sources. The best preserved sites are located above fort of Vodice near Babino Polje and on Veliki Gradac hill above the Veliko Jezero. The Romans followed, their era lasting from the 2nd Century BC - 7th century AD. After Octavian wiped out the Illyrians in 35 BC, the Romans built their own settlements on the western side of the island. Evidence of their domain is most notable in Polače, where they built a palace. Other Roman ruins are located in Pomena, Žara and Pinjevci. The Croatian-Slavic nobility settled along the entire Adriatic coast around the end of the 8th and the start of the 9th Century. During this period of weakened Byzantine influence in the region, Croatians descended from the Neretva Valley and some settled on Mljet. The Romans, however, remained on dubrovnik neretva county 53 Restaurants Konoba Triton Babino Polje, tel. 091 20 53 531 Konoba Riva Sobra, tel. 74 52 22 Konoba Laura Sobra, tel. 74 51 01 Konoba Lupar Zadublje, tel.74 52 35 Restaurant Melita St Mary islet, tel. 74 41 45 Marijina Konoba Prožurska Luka, tel. 74 61 13 Konoba Maran Okuklje, tel. 74 61 86, 098 931 96 01 Nine Pero Matana, Pomena, tel.74 40 37 Konoba Lanterna Sobra, tel.74 50 80 Konoba Stermasi Saplunara, tel.74 61 79 Konoba Ogigija Polače, tel.74 40 95 Konoba Stella Maris Polače, tel. 74 40 59 Konoba Barba Prožurska Luka, tel.74 62 00 the western end of the mountain for about another 300 years, until they were defeated in a battle on the mountain Bijeđ, between Blato and Polače. Evidence of this battle, including mass graves and remnants of bones, spears, swords and arrows, were discovered in 1938. In 1151, Desa of Zahumlje donated the entire island of Mljet to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary of Pulsano from Apulia. Their arrival saw the construction of a church and grand monastery (1177 - 1198) on the islet in Veliko Jezero. Dubrovnik (latin: Ragusa) acquired the Pelješac Peninsula in 1333, leaving Mljet isolated for a time. This changed in 1410 when Dubrovnik, now independent of Venice, annexed Mljet. Dubrovnik held the island until the dissolution of the Republic under Napoleon in 1808. What to See: National Park Mljet (Nacionalni Park Mljet) Pristanište 2, Goveđari, tel. 74 40 41, fax. 74 40 43, np-mljet@ np-mljet.hr, turizam@np-mljet.hr, www.np-mljet.hr. Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s top attraction. The park, encompasses 54 square kilometres at the western end of the island, with an astonishing interior and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake), and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće, Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie within park boundaries. Of interest, this park represents the first institutionalised attempt to protect the native eco-system in the Adriatic. The lakes, 145-hectare Veliko Jezero and 24-hectare Malo Jezero, are the park’s dominant features. Thirty-meter-long channels link the two lakes and provide an outlet from Veliko Jezero to the sea. The current in the channels, swift enough to power mills during the Middle Ages, switching direction every six hours. On foot or by pedal you can enjoy a 9-kilometer path that circumnavigates the lakes, and other paths wind up and over the hills. It’s ok to swim or paddle in the lake, but scuba diving and motor boats are not permitted. Tourist information tz-mljet@du.t-com.hr, www.mljet.hr. Sobra office (around the side of the café at the ferry pier): January - June: 08:00 - 13:00, closed Sundays; June - October, 08:30 - 13:00, 16:30 - 19:00 daily. Tourist Board Goveđari (office actually in Polače), tel. 74 41 86, fax 74 41 86. January - June, 08:00 13:00, closed Saturdays & Sundays; June, September, 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00, closed Sundays; July, August: 08:00 - 20:00 daily. Tourist Board Mljet tel. 74 60 25, fax 74 60 25, The usual national park rules apply: Don’t pick the flowers, steal the artifacts, fish without a special permit, nor litter, and most of all, don’t start fires. Mjet is one of the most verdant of Croatia’s islands because it wasn’t heavily logged or used for farming or herding. Nevertheless, in a1917 fire it took out many of the deciduous forests. Tickets to the park cost 90 kn and can be purchased at booths in Polače and Pomena, and at the Hotel Odisej. Admission includes the ferry to St Marija Island in the middle of Veliko Jezero, where you will find the Benedictine monastery and a restaurant. Benedictine Monastery on the islet of St Marija (Samostan Sv Marija) This tiny island, in a lake on the island of Mljet, is at the island’s cultural and spiritual heart. For a time, the monastery was the island’s governmental center. Benedictines, members of a monastic order who live in autonomous communities dedicated to work, prayer and peace, came to Mljet from Monte Gargano, Italy in the 12th Century to establish a monastery and build a Romanesque church dedicated to St Mary, which they completed in 1198. In the process the Benedictines became the island’s feudal lords, but they are credited with developing literacy, culture and art. The Church of St Mary was repeatedly modified over the centuries, acquiring by the 13th Century decorative reliefs of saints and a typical Romanesque belltower. Renaissance features such as the Gundulić coat of arms over the church portal, defensive towers and walls, the two-storey structure of the monastery and Baroque side chapels were added during the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1809, during the rule of Napoleon, the monastery was abandoned and the Austrian Forestry Office for Mljet used the buildings for offices until 1941. In 1960 it was renovated into a lovely hotel but given back to the bishopric in 1997, just under 800 years from the church’s inauguration. The church has been reconsecrated, but other than a restaurant in the monaster y cellars, the buildings are unoccupied. The island is small but offers a pleasant walk Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 54 dubrovnik neretva county past two chapels. You can close your eyes for a moment and imagine the monks carefully pruning, weeding, and feeding in the gardens, which are now fairly overgrown. Polače The village is named after the ruin of a significant Roman palace and fortifications – one tower is 20m high - - built between the 2nd and 5th century. Second in size to the Palace of Diocletian in Split, you can’t miss it: The road to Pomena slips right between its high walls. Archaeologists have also discovered two 5th Century basilicas) west of the palace, baths, an arsenal and shipyards. The palace’s economy included salt production, olive oil, wine, honey, meat, cheese and fish. A paved route from the palace will take you up the hill. When you reach the road, bear right and continue straight to Mali Gradac, site of an Illyrian fort. A posted turnoff on the way will take you to Montokuc, the highest peak in the park, which grants breathtaking views over the lakes and the Adriatic. Pomena Located on the western coast of Mljet in the National Park, about 200 m from Malo Jezero. This village, built after World War II, has only about 50 inhabitants living among charming thick alpine woodlands and working in agriculture, fishing and tourism. The bay of Pomena is perfect for small dubrovnik neretva county war. The event took place near the island of Ogigia (interesting thing is that there’s an rocky island in front of the cave called Ogiran!). Ulysses swam into the cave for shelter. There, nymph Calypso, daughter of Poseidon, God of the sea, waited for him. Amazed by the beauty of nature and in love with nymph Calypso, Ulysses stayed on the island for 7 years. Prožura This medieval village was used by Dubrovnik nobles who – a bit like yourself – were looking for a relaxing getaway. Perched on a hill over an intermittent lake (blatina) and the sea, Prožura has a 17th Century watch tower and three beautiful churches: the Church of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St Martin and the Church of St Rocco. The Church of the Holy Trinity has characteristics similar to those of Dubrovnik’s Gothic chapels, plus a remarkable 15th Century Romanesque bronze crucifix. The church most likely was built in 1477 by the Benedictines from Lokrum, who were bequeathed from the estate in Prožura. The crucifix includes figured representations of St Blaise (the patron saint of Dubrovnik), St Martin (the patron saint of the poor) and St Nicholas (the patron saint of sailors and fishermen). Benedictines lived and worked in a small monastery near the church. It’s partly ruined now; along with the tower, it has been adapted for reuse as a stable and storage. The Church of St Martin and village graveyard is situated on a bluff overlooking the village on one side and the island road and Mljet Channel on the other. St Martin’s day is celebrated on November 11 with a mass in the church. The newer Church of St Rocco is situated on another small hill above the village. Costumed celebrations of St Rocco (who was believed to have saved the village from the plague), take place on August 16 every year. Prožura was the birthplace of Pavao Gracić, a well known bishop of Ston from 1635 – 1652. Korita is a nerby village, named after the stone basins filled with water on the rainy days from the small spring. There is a small church from the 16th century of St. Eliah, the patron saint of the village, 16th century church of St. Vitus and a 14th Century Church of St Mary of the Hill with mix of Gothic and Renaissance elements, St Mary demonstrates features typical of the island’s churches. Some of the manor houses have Renaissance-Baroque elements. The town has its own 17th Century defence tower with loopholes for firing. Sports & Activites: A range of sporting activities are available on Mljet, along with plenty of hiking and cycling trails for the less adventurous; if your hiking stick didn’t fit in your suitcase, you can rent one from the Hotel Odisej. 55 Bays & Beaches Just by walking down many roads and hidden paths, you will arrive at some lovely swimming spots, although you may also end up at a rocky cliff. Most beaches aren’t crowded, so there’s plenty of privacy for you to enjoy. In the springtime, when you can have them to yourself, it would be wonderful to get a jump on your tan, if only the authorities were quicker to clear away the debris that has washed ashore. To save you time, here are a few suggestions: Saplunara Befitting its name, Saplunara, perhaps a variant of the Latin “sabulum,” is one of the few sandy beaches on the island. Actually, Saplunara, consists of two beaches in one cove. (www.saplunara.com). A small snack bar was under construction in the spring (see St Paul and the Mongooses). Blace This beautiful and popular beach is on a very shallow cove and might best suit families with small children or, because of its seclusion, naturists. A new road from Saplunara makes Blace easier to reach – for you and everyone else. Sutmiholjska beach can be reached via roads from Babino Polje. Sutmiholjska’s route is signposted, ending in a cove with a few vacation houses and fishing boats. You can always take a dip at the beach next to the hotel Odisej, in the Pomena harbour. There’s a small kiddie pool there for the little ones. You can also swim in Veliko and Malo Jezero, and at a beach in Soline. Babino Polje The central and largest inhabited area with around 350 people, Babino Polje is the administrative center of the island. Stretched along a ridge above a bypass road and a field (the name means “Grandma’s Field”), Babino Polje is surrounded with pine woods, groves of old, twisted olive trees and vineyards, and the 514m Veliki Grad, the highest hill on the island. There are also a high per-capita number of churches: St Pancratius, St Andrew, St Michael, St George, St Blaise- St Salvation, St Paul, St Joseph and Our Lady of Mercy. The three oldest are the pre-Romanesque churches of St Andrew, St Michael and St Pancratius, which was built in the 11th Century. You can reach the church, and neighbouring St Blaise, by way of an unmarked turnoff below the town. When you turn in, the road immediately forks; take the sharp right, which bends again to head straight into the valley. On the left among the olive trees you’ll pass the single-storey Renaissance manor of the Dubrovnik governor of the island. Clustered around the village cemetery are St Pancratius, the 15th Century Gothic parish church of St Blaise, and the sotnica, a Renaissance-era government building in whose courtyard the governor sometimes issued judgments. Ulysses’ Cave is situated under the village of Babino Polje. It’s a large egg shaped cave accessed by a 30 meter tunnel used as a harbour by local fishermen. There are two entrances to the cave: one from the seaside and the other one from the hill. Trough time it’s believed that Ulysses found his shelter here after surviving a shipwreck. That’s where the cave’s name comes from. According to Homer, the King of Itaka survived a shipwreck on his way back home from the Trojan Maranovići The 18th Century Baroque house of the Peš family is in the middle of the town. The 19th Century parish church of St Anton rests on the foundation of an older church and features Gothic architectural elements. The best way to see every hill and valley and secluded patch of waterfront rock or sand is on foot. Bikes are a little quicker for those who are in better shape, but scooters, quads or car will get you quicker from one end of the 50-kilometer island road to the other. Watch your speed, however. Some of the best views on the island are from narrow, curvy roads unblemished by those pesky (but lifesaving) guardrails. If you didn’t bring your own vehicle, two agencies can provide you with wheels. They can pick up and deliver cars anywhere on the island. Both agencies only offer standard-shift cars. Mini Brum Sobra, Polače and Pomena, tel. 74 52 60, 74 50 84, 098 28 55 66, mini.brum@du.htnet.hr, www. mljet.hr. Offers cars (some with very unusual detailing), buggies and scooters. Open 09:00-19.00. Radulj Tours Pomena, N.P. Mljet, tel. 098 42 80 74, 098 42 80 74. Offers cars, scooters, ATVs, bikes, canoes, kayaks and paddle boats. Open 09:00 – 19:00. Prožura Travel Agency, Prožua 36, Maranovići, tel. 098 60 88 61, prozura@du.t-com.hr, island.mljet@ yahoo.com, www.island-mljet.com. Rents sailboats and motorboats, also provides marina and storage services. Adriatic Kayak Tours, tel. 31 27 70, 091 722 04 13, info@adriatickayaktours.com, www.adriatickayaktours. com or Aquatica Mljet, tel. 098 47 99 16, info@aquaticamljet.hr. Mljet is naturally beautiful below and above the yachts, which can pull up to the pier and enjoy the hotel’s amenities. Goveđari Settlement began here in the late 18th Century when two families of land workers and fishermen from Babino Polje were given permission to settle by the Benedictines to work as cattle-breeders (goveda means cattle in Croatian). Located in the national park, 5km inland, this ethnologically interesting site is a great place to be surrounded by peace, serenity and lush vegetation. Babine Kuće This picturesque little fishing village is located on the shores of the Veliko jezero just beneath Goveđari. It offers a splendid view of the islet of St Mary. There are a number of private rentals here, too. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 56 dubrovnik neretva county waves. And traces of its history – especially its history of piracy, which incurred the wrath of Rome – can also be found below the waves. More than 40 Roman wrecks lie in the Pelješac Channel, plus ships that sank as recently as World War II. Aquatica Mljet arranges scuba trips to a variety of dive sites. For lone divers, beware as it’s forbidden to go diving in the Veliko and Malo Jezero and the Bay of Soline, although diving is permitted 100m from the islands of Glavat, Borovac, Crna Seka, Seka od Liskanja, Pomeštak and Galicjia. Fishing is basically permitted everywhere except in the Veliko and Malo jezero. The Aquatica Mljet company also offers water skiing, banana rides (behind a speedboat), longer excursions via speedboat to Split, Dubrovnik and other islands as well as renting bicycles and scooters. Sailing (Ana Sailing) offers sailing lessons during the summer. For more information, ask at the registration desk of Hotel Odisej. Day Trips Half- and full-day tours leave periodically from Hotel Odisej during the summer season. Ask at the registration desk for more information. Cav tat - Ancient Epidaurum The approach to this li ttle gem of a Mediterranean town is one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the campaniles of its churches poke their way into view above a canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient settlement of Epi daur um wh os e inhabi tants populated Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the ramblin g old stre ets, e d ge d b y ca fés, a couple of good places to drink, a selection of good restaurants and a han d ful of ra th er lovely small hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach, a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out of town are several large hotels which are good choices for families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional konoba in the town, and the rural Konvale region, famous for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your doorstep. A highlight of a trip to Cavtat is the Bukovac house, where one of the best-loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they have been restored with some success, and the delightful exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Bukovac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion. An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to the work of young artists, and the shows feature contemporary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one. Konavle The Konavle region stretches from Cavtat to the border with Montenegro. The village of Čilipi close to the airport is one of the cultural centres of Konavle, and on Sunday mornings you can witness the traditional songs and dances of Konavle and performers dressed in colourful folk costume. Konavle consists of a fertile valley plus upland and coastal parts, all with stone villages that would reduce real estate agents to tears. In the central valley, you’ll find traditional rural restaurants where you can enjoy delicious home grown food - locally reared meat and trout, sometimes served by waiters and waitresses in traditional costume (see our “Where to eat” pages). If you come in spring, you can try dishes made with wild asparagus and see almond orchards in bloom. The upland section borders with Herzegovina, for centuries the dividing line with the Ottoman Empire. Its highest point is the Snježnica (“snowy”) peak, 1234m high. The village cemetery at Brotnice has unusual gravestones (stećci) of the Bogomil sect, featuring vivid primitive carvings and lettering in the ancient language of Bosnia. There are well-marked hiking trails, and organised trips include a hearty meal as part of the deal. The coastal part of Konavle is unusual for Croatia in that it is characterised by limestone cliffs. There are very few settlements, and the only people on the shores are locals looking for a little solitude. At the village of Močići there is a second century stone carving of the pagan god Mitreus, and scattered around are old houses with unusual conical chimneys. Molunat, the largest coastal settlement, is a quiet fishing village in a pretty cove. The Prevlaka peninsula is the southernmost point of Croatia and there’s now a Nature Park here, from which you have views over the Gulf of Kotor in Montenegro, with wild mountain ranges behind. Prevlaka was until recently a military zone, so don’t be surprised to come across barracks now used as a realistic venue for paintball games. Military enthusiasts will also be interested to see the islet which used to be an Italian prison in WWII. There is a strange Cyrillic-inscribed monument within the Park, apparently containing the bones of prisoners who died of hunger – no mention is made of this in the pamphlet. More cheerfully, there’s also a petting zoo, an excellent climbing wall, mountain bikes are for hire and you can feast on grilled meat and have a dip. dubrovnik neretva county 57 Agrotourism 091 177 36 00, fax 77 36 01, jakanov_dvor@net. hr, www.jakanov-dvor.hr. This magnificent, rambling old country home not far from Čilipi has a super terrace with wide open views of the Konavle countryside, and offers meat cooked on the spit or under an iron bell with live charcoal. A real treat. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ALBC Konoba Vinica - Monković family Pridvorje, Ljuta, tel. 79 12 44/ 098 34 54 59, fax 79 10 54, monkovic@konobavinica.com, www.konobavinica. com. Another excellent option in the Konavle region south of Cavtat. If you ask nicely, the Monković family who run the place may show you their collection of folk costumes as you digest your home made prosciutto, cheese, baked meat, trout and garden salad. A drop of home made rakija would go down a treat too… QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (50-110kn). PALGB Jakanov dvor Uskoplje, Konavle, tel. 77 36 00/ www.inyourpocket.com Neretva river delta - Orange groves and water life If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have to part with good money for them back home. Obviously, the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rushing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Generations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California. As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spirits. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life of the people is closel y ti e d up wi t h b oa ts, used for transpor ting pretty much everything around here. The region has i ts own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Al though these traditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual race which a t t ra c ts c omp e tin g team s from aroun d the world looks set to revive the picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish construction which is very attractive but definitely renders their navigation a challenge! More curious still is the water life of the valley. The traditional dishes of the area are often centred around two aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the popular restaurant at Villa Metković at the town of the same name, where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game. Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnecting freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beautifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in the near future. Pelješac - Oysters and wine The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called “little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 58 dubrovnik neretva county The finest vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular conical hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin (1961). It’ll cost you about 10 Euro a bottle, but to enjoy the Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very quaffable. On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, untouched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern side a bracing wind makes this a favourite spot for windsurfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort, its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Dubrovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and Trstenik to Polače on Mljet ideal for island hopping. The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week will hardly be long enough. dubrovnik neretva county Župa dubrovačka The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name, which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aquamarine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can still see here, driven by streams that race down the mountainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freezing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in question. These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons being that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav army during the early 90s. Then the hotels were used for housing refugees, as was the case with so many in Croatia, and became unusable. The village of Kupari is all but devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situation for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is presently going on and things will get better. We highly recommend these resorts for the following reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!) There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Dubrovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environment and clean beaches. Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll find necessities such as the tourist information centre, banks, the post office and a large supermarket. There’s also a campsite and a new night bar, Porto, which has become the venue of choice for Dubrovnik’s party animals on a Friday night. Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream, a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752 right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel complex with little villas nestled in leafy shade. 59 The folk tradition The people of Dubrovnik and the surrounding regions proudly maintain their folk tradition, which you can still see at festivals, folklore performances, and processions on feast days; in museums and sometimes even on your waiter in rural restaurants. Every region, and in some cases every settlement had its own style of folk attire, which often showed the social status of the wearer. So, for example, in Konavle, where the tradition is perhaps strongest to this day, unmarried girls wore red pillbox hats decorated with gold braid, while married women wore stiffly starched headscarves shaped like horns, to scare their menfolk into submission, we presume. The costumes, mainly in white, red and black fabrics, were decorated with embroidery, particularly on decorative fabric breastplates with gold silk tassels on women, and waistcoats and cummerbunds on men. Silk was produced and coloured at home. On special occasions, people wore fine velvets and silks richly embroidered with gold thread, a style influenced by Dubrovnik’s excellent trading links with the nearby Ottoman Empire. Luxurious clothes indicated the wealth of the owner, but rich folk lent fine clothes to poorer neighbours to ensure a good celebration. Jewellery has for centuries been a way for women in particular to invest their wealth. Dubrovnik at its zenith, had many goldsmiths and silversmiths who, in addition to adorning the city’s churches and palaces also made jewellery, an integral part of folk costume. You can still buy traditional earrings in gold or silver filigree, large hoops or drop earrings adorned with baubles. If you’d like to take home an original Dubrovnik souvenir, you can also find tiny backstreet workshops where women produce tablecloths, bags, purses, pictures, slippers and more embellished with traditional embroidery. In Dubrovnik there are several women’s’ groups who engage in reviving traditional crafts such as folk dress, which originally arose to lift the spirits of victims of war. One such group is Deša, who have their centre at Lazareti. They are currently engaged in a project to rescue the traditional colourful dress of Mljet island from oblivion. On your travels around the region, you can meet many more facets of folk culture. If you’re on Korčula island, you may meet a procession of drummers in medieval costume on their way to a performance of the traditional Moreška sword dance (performed across the region in high summer). And if you’re lucky enough to be on distant Lastovo in the two days before Ash Wednesday, you’ll see the Poklad festival, eagerly awaited every year by the islanders, and a riot of fun, celebrating the salvation of the island from attack by Catalan pirates in 1483. The men dress in scarlet traditional costumes with embroidered sashes and hats decked with more flowers than Ladies Day at Ascot – a truly unique experience! Summer camp of a different kind... The name Dubrovnik evokes images of Renaissance buildings with ancient palaces surrounded by the radiant blue waters of the Adriatic Sea. Well amidst all that beauty there is another side to the city that offers tourists a different experience, an experience that connects the present to the city’s very own past. It all has to do with the natural resource ‘salt’, yes that very ingredient that most cooks simply cannot live without. Let us turn back the clock for a moment to fill you in on some history. The Republic of Dubrovnik was very well off and part of its prosperity came from the trading of salt. Obtaining salt from sea water and exporting it to other regions brought economic wealth to its aristocrats. The region also included the small coastal town of ‘Ston’, whose entire working population and surroundings were mobilised for extracting and panning salt. Believe it or not, over hundreds of years the need for salt intensified causing competitors such as the Venetians and Turks to have open armed clashes with Dubrovnik merchants. Trsteno - Balm for the soul If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Dubrovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green, get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gardeners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centrepiece is a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Marinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descendant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical texts here. Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided by local sea captains who came home from their travels bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many people have invested their energy and soul into these gardens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone aqueduct. East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offering a view of the true meaning of this place – botanical splendour on the lush, island-strewn Mediterranean. In this part of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arboretum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably healthy. The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and modern sections, with features typical of the southern Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and nature. The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical. Linđo The folk tradition is very much connected with music and dance. During the Dubrovnik Summer Festival you will surely have the chance to see Linđo, Dubrovnik’s foremost folk troupe, going strong since 1964. The region’s folk music is centred around a one-stringed instrument called a Ljerica. Legend has it that one Niko Lale was an especially talented player even though one of his fingers was broken. One day, he had enough of working in the fields and screamed “No more farming for me!” – oddly, in perfect English. From then on he was a full time party animal and became known as Linđo. www.inyourpocket.com Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 60 street register A. Barca A. Bošković A. Hallera A. Hebranga A. Kazali A. Mihanovića A. Šenoe A.G. Matoša A.T. Mimare Androvićeva Antuninska Aquarium Arhiv Asimon B. Bušića Bernarda Shawa Babin Kuk Bandureva Banjska Batahovina Batala Biokovska Bokar Bokeljska Boninovo Bosanka Boškovićeva Božatska Braće Andrijića Branitelja Dubrovnika (ex. Dr. A. Starčevića) Brdasta Brgatska Brsalje Brsečinska Bunićeva poljana Buža Cavtatska Celestina Medovića Crijevićeva Cvijete Zuzorić Čubranovićeva Ćilipska Ćira Carića H-3 J-4 I-4 I-2 H-3 J-4 H-3 I-3 L-4 C-4 C-2 E-3 D-2 E-1 M-5 K-4 G-2 D-4 J-4 H-1 I-3 H-2 A-3 H-1/2 J-4 M-5 C-2 J-3 D-4 K-4 / I-3 K-4 L-4 A-2 I-3 C-3 D-1 L-4 B-2 C-4 C-3 B-2 J-3 H-2 D. Pulića Dalmatinska Dante Allghieria Dinka Ranjine Dolska Dr. A. Šercera Dr. V. Mačeka Dračasta Dropčeva Državna cesta Dubravkina Dunavska Džamija Đorđićeva Đura Baljevića Đura Basaričeka E. Kumičića F Kolumbića . F Prešerna . F Supila . Ferićeva Flore Jakšić G. Rajčevića Garište Getaldićeva Gorica Sv. Vlaha Gornji kono Gradac Gradićeva Grbava Grebenska Grudska Gruška obala Gundulićeva poljana Hanibala Lucića Hladnica Hliđina Hodiljska Hvarska I. Matijaševića I. Račića I. Vojnovića I. Zajca Ilije Sarake A-1 H/I-3 K-5 C-3 I-2 H-3 I-4 K-4 C-2 D-8 G-2 G-3 C-3 B-2 D-4 I-2 H-2 H-2 J-3 M-5 / L-5 B-3 G-2 I-4 B-2 B-2 I-4 J-3/K-4 K-5 D-4 C-4 H-3 L-4 H-1 C/D -3 C-1 H-3 B-3 J-3 L-5 J-4 M-5 I-4 H-2 D-4 Od Sigurate B-2 Od Srđa L-4 Od Sv. Mihajla H-3 Od škara I-2 Od šorte B-3 Od Tabakarije K-5 Oraška H-2 P Beatovića . P Budmani . K-4 P Čingrije . J-4 P Krešimira IV . L-5 P Preradovića . H-3 Padre Perice I-2 Palmotićeva C-2 Paska Baburice H-3 Pećarica C-3 Peline C-1 Pelješka L-4 Petilovrijenci C-2 Petra Svačića G-2 Pile K-4 Pionirska I-2 Placa C-2 / D-2 Placa – Stradun C-2 Platska K-4/5 Ploče E-1 Plovani skalini C-1 Pobijana D-4 Pobreška I-1 Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4 Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Pomoraca H-1 Pomorski muzej E-4 Porat E-3 Porporela E-3/4 Posat E-2 Postranjska J-3 Pred Dvorom Prelazna Pridvorska Prijeko Primorska Pomoraca Privežna Puljizeva Put od Bosanke Put Republike Restićeva Revelin Riječka Ribarnica Roka Mišetića S.S. Kranjčevića Savska Sinjska Slanska Solinska Solitudo Sorkočević Sponza Srebrenska Srednji kono Stayeva Stonska Strossmayerova Stulina Stradun Sunčana Sustjepanska Sv. Barbara Sv. Đurđa D-3 B-3 J-4 B-2/3 / C-2 H-2 H-1 K-4 B-3 L-4 I-3 D-4 E-1 H-2 D-2 H/G-4 J-3 G-3 J-3 G-2 J-3/4 G-1 D-2 J-3 K-4/5 E-4 G-2 C-3 D-4 B-2 M-5 I-2 C-1 A-2 / K-5 street register Sv. Ivan E-3 Sv. Jakov D-1 Sv. Križa I-2 Sv. Lucija C-1 Sv. Luka E-2 Sv. Petar B-4 Sv. Spasitelj E-4 Sv. Stjepan D-4 Sv. Šimuna B-4 Sv. Vid C-1 Sv. Vlaha D-3 Sv. Marije B-3 Sv.Dominika D-2 Sv. Josipa B-3 Sv.Nikole H/I-1 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Šibenska G-2 Šipanska H/I-1 Šipčine J-3 Široka C-2 Tivatska J-3 Tmušasta C-3 Topolska J-3 Trg oružja E-2 Trnovička J-3 Trogirska Trpanjska H-1 Trstenska H-2 U pilama K-5 Udarnička J-3 Uvala Gruž H-1/2 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Uz Giman H-2 Uz Glavicu Uz Jezuite Uz mline Uz posat Uz tabor Vladimira Nazora Vatroslava Lisinskog Velebitska Velika Petka Vetranićeva Vicina Viška Vlaha Paljetka Vukovarska Za kapelicom Za Kamenom Za Rokom Za rupama Zadarska Zagrebačka Zamanjina Zatonska Zlatarićeva Zlatarska Zrinsko-Frankopanska Zvijezdićeva Željezničarska Žudioska Žuljanska Župska H-3 C-4/3 K-4 B-1 M-5 J-4 G-1 G-2 G-3 C-2 K-4 J-3 I-1 I-3 K-4 E-4 B-3 B-3 G-2 K-4 / M-5 C-2 H-2 B-2 D-2 K-4 B-4/3 H/I-1 D-2 I-3 M-5 61 Imotska I-2 Ispod Minčete B-1 Ispod mira D-4 Ispod Petke G-3 Istarska K-4 Iva Dulčića F-1 / F-2 / F-4 / G-3 / H-3 Ivana Zajca G-1 Ivanska G-3 Iza Grada B-1 Između ribnjaka H-2 Između tri crkve J-4 Između vrta A-1 Između polača C-2 Izvijačica A-1 J. Berse H-3 J. Pupačića H-3 Jakljanska H/I-1 Janjinska H-3 Josipa Kosora I-4 Kantafig H-1 Kardinala Stepinca F-2 Kaznačićeva C-3 Kliševska G-2 Kneza Domagoja H-2 Kneza Branimira I-3 Kneza Damjana Jude E-3 Kneza Hrvaša C-4 Knežev dvor D-3 Koločepska L-5 Komajska H-3 Komolačka H-2 Konavoska M-5 Korčulanska I-4 Koritska I-1 Kotorska I-4 Kovačka D-2 Kralja Tomislava H-3 Kunićeva C-2 Kunska I-2 L. Matačića I-2 L. Rogovskog H-3 Lapad H-3 Lapadska obala H-2 Lazarina M-5 Liechtensteinov put G-4 Lokrum L-6 Lokrumska L-4 Lopudska I-2 Lovrijenac K-5 Lovrina M-5 Lučarica D-3 Luka Dubrovnik I-2 Luka Sorkočević G-3 Ljubuška I-1 M. Blažića K-5 M. Budaka L-4 M. Dizdara I-2 M. Gjaje J-3 M. Gupca L-4 M. Hamzića I/J-4 M. Jarnovića H-3 M. Mrnarevića I-4 M. Vodopića G/H-3 Mala Petka G-3 Mandaljenska G-3 Marina Držića D-3 Marka Marojice I-3 Marojice Kaboge C-3 Masarykov put F-3 / G-3 Metohijska I-2 Miha Pracata C-2 Minčeta B/C-1 Mljetska I-2 Mokoška J-2 Moluntska H-2 Montovjerna I-3 Mosorska H-2 Most Dubrovnik H-1 Mrtvo zvono B-4 N. Ljubičića I-2 N. Nodila J-4 Na Andriji B-3 Na Mihajlu H-3 Na Ponti D-2 Nalješkovićeva C-2 Napice M-5 Neumska I-2 Nikole Božidarevića B/C-3 Nikole Gučetića C-3 Nikole Tesle I-3 Nuncijata I-1 Obala S. Radića I-2/3 Obala pape Ivana Pavla II H-1 Obodska L-4 Obuljenska J-4 Od Batale H-3 Od borova H-3 Od čempresa J/K-4 Od Danača K-5 Od Domina B-3 Od gaja J-4 Od Gale J-3/4 Od Greba Žudioskih L-4 Od Gradca K-4/5 Od Hladnice H/I-4 Od Kaštela B-4 Od Kolorine K-5 Od Margarite C-4 Od maslinate M-5 Od Montovjerne I-3/4 Od Nuncijate I-1/2 Od polača C-2 Od puča C-3 / B-3 Od pustijerne D-4 B-3 Od Rupa Dubrovnik In Your Pocket Summer 2008 Legend church museum hospital post office hotel parking petrol station main streets other streets pedestrian streets park