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Kadriorg

Kadriorg
If there’s one part of Tallinn outside Old Town that a firsttime visitor absolutely, definitely, unquestionably has to see, it’s Kadriorg. Though it’s only a  few minutes’ walk from the centre, this quiet area is a world unto itself, a secluded neighbourhood made up of large areas of forested park criss-crossed by paths and dotted with statues and ponds. It’s also home to a number of intriguing 19th- and 20th-century villas, and the nation’s top art museums. 

The jewel in Kadriorg’s crown however is the Kadriorg Palace, a magnificent, Baroque structure surrounded by manicured gardens and fountains. This was the centre of an estate that Russian tsar Peter the Great established as a family retreat in the early 18th century. In fact, it was Peter himself who was responsible for creating Kadriorg. 

The story started when his forces captured Estonia from the Swedes in 1710, kicking off the so-called Tsarist period of Estonia’s history, which lasted for the next two centuries. In 1714, the emporer launched a project to create a park on a large tract of land in was then on the outskirts of Tallinn. Later, in 1718, work on the summer palace began. It was dubbed Catherinenthal in honour of the tsar’s wife, Catherine I. In Estonian, Kadriorg literally means ‘Catherine’s Valley.’ The emporer never intended the palace to be anything more than a summer villa and knew that the family would rarely visit, so he ordered that the park and its carefully crafted gardens be open to the public. 

After Peter died, Russian royalty lost interest holidaying in far-off Tallinn, but the area continued to be associated with culture and splendour.  Wealthy families eventually began to build their villas nearby and continued to do so right up through the 20th Century. In 1938, the Estonian presidential palace was built here, just uphill from the Kadriorg Palace. Even today, telling people that you own property in Kadriorg will get you a few envious glances. 

These days Kadriorg is also associated with art, since it’s home to some of the best art museums in the country. Earlier this year the nation’s largest and most complete art museum, the Kumu, opened its doors to the public. What’s more, the former Tsar’s palace itself now houses the extensive Foreign Art Museum of Estonia, while the nearby Mikkel museum displays an impressive number of works, including some Rembrandt etchings. Just as rewarding as walking through the museums and admiring the paintings, visitors can also stroll through Kadriorg’s residential streets to find a few architectural gems, or simply meander through the park and ponder the lives aristocrats enjoyed in centuries past.

Getting there
On your map, look for the big, green patch and you’ve found Kardiorg. From the centre, walking to Kadriorg is an easy option - it takes about 15 minutes if you’re coming from the edge of Old Town nearest the Viru Hotel. The most direct and simple way there is to head down Narva mnt., then follow the tram tracks as they veer off to the right on Weizenbergi tänav. You should continue until you pass the Kadriorg tram stop. Trams N°1 and 3 will also get you there. Once you’ve arrived, nearly everything you want to see is located conveniently on, or just next to, the same short stretch of Weizenbergi.

What to see
Kadriorg Palace - Museum of Foreign Art G-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. 606 64 00, fax 606 64 01, kadriorg@ekm.ee www.ekm.ee. Italian master architect Nicolo Michetti designed the palace in 1718 at the request of Peter the Great. The idea was to create something that looked like an Italian villa - a really swank one at that - and the result is breathtaking. This is the only example of Northern Baroque style in Estonia, the style used in the tsar’s palaces in and near St. Petersburg. Now the palace is an art museum. Rooms in most of the three-winged palace are undecorated, pefect for displaying the collection. The two-storey main hall, however, is mind-bogglingly ornate, and an office upstairs, where the Estonian president worked in the 1930s, has been restored. Even if you’re visiting when the museum is closed, take a peek at the manicured garden and fountains around back.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 55kr.

Presidential Palace Weizenbergi 39. For a few years during Estonia’s first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace’s style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President’s office and residence, it’s closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you’ll see the honour guards marching out front.

Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. 602 60 00/602 61 23, fax 602 60 02, muuseum@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Kumu, short for  Kunstimuuseum (art museum) is the art museum that puts all other Tallinn art museums in Tallinn to shame. The enormous, cutting-edge facility was designed by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori and built into a limestone cliff at the end of Weizenbergi tänav. It’s a relatively new facility, having only opened in February of this year, and serves as both a national gallery and a contemporary art gallery. While getting familiar with Estonian art, you can take a look at the temporary exhibits on works by Kristjan and Paul Raud, and on art created during the 1990s. If all this culture makes you hungry, you can try out the museum’s restaurant or its terrace café.
Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission to permanent exhibition 60kr, contemporary art 35kr, all exhibitions 80kr.

Swan Pond Along Weizenbergi. It may still be in the throes of reconstruction when you visit, but this artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle is still a required stop on any tour of Kadriorg, mainly because of its romantic look - like something out of a Chekhov play. From here, you can take also a path up the hill, bypassing Weizenbergi, to reach some new fountain and flower garden areas on the way to the Kumu.

Park paths and statues The entire leafy park northeast of Weizenbergi is criss-crossed with paths, perfect for a wandering visitor. The forest includes several horse chestnuts planted here in 1722 that were supposed to be replanted later in St. Petersburg, but never were. Along the paths are benches, a few more ponds, and the odd statue or two.

Peter I House Museum G-5, Mäekalda 2, at the end of Weizenbergi, tel. 601 31 36, peetri@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/peetrimaja. As a museum it’s celebrating its 200th anniversary this summer, but this humble little cottage’s claim to fame is that this was where Peter the Great used to stay while the palace was being built. Filled with Peter’s furniture, portraits and other artefacts.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, closed Mon. In September 11:00 - 19:00, closed Mon, Tue.Admission 15kr.

Kadriorg Park Museum Weizenbergi 26. This small, new museum is dedicated to the park’s history, as well as to the architecture of other parks around Estonia. Changing exhibits and a library.
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

Mikkel Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 28, tel. 601 58 44, fax 644 20 94, mikkel@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Works by Dutch masters (including some Rembrandt scetches), a fascinating display of Russian icons and intricate Chinese porcelain make up the collection at this museum, located just across from the Palace. This was once the private collection of Johannes Mikkel, who donated it to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994.
Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25kr.

E. Vilde Museum G-5, Roheline aas 3, tel. 601 31 81, vilde@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/vilde. This striking, pink building near the Swan Pond was once the home of the palace governor, and now houses a museum dedicated to the prolific literary figure Eduard Vilde (1865 - 1933), who also lived here during the 1930s. Some of his rooms have been preserved and restored. The Kastellaani Galerii modern art gallery upstairs is also worth a look.
Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10kr.

Russalka Monument Across Narva mnt., by the shore. This striking sculpture of an angel facing out into the sea horizon is a memorial to the 177 men of the Russalka, a Russian military ship that tragically sunk while en route to Helsinki in 1893. Created by famed Estonian sculptor A.H. Adamson, the monument has become a Tallinn landmark and a traditional spot for Russian couples to lay flowers on their wedding day.

Where to eat
Below is a selection of places to eat while in Kadriorg, giving just a taste of what each is like. In most cases you can find their full reviews in our restaurant section.
Cantina Carramba G-5, Weizenbergi 20a, tel. 601 34 31, carramba@hot.ee, www.carramba.ee. This Tex-Mex place is among Estonia’s better ethnic restaurants. Inviting pueblo décor.Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Kadriorg Café G-5, Poska 45, tel. 601 33 44. One of the area’s few casual and cheap options. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. 602 61 62. The art museum’s respectable restaurant is operated by the same company that runs the better-known Bonaparte. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon.
Lydia G-4, Koidula 13a, tel. 626 89 90, lydia@lydia.ee, www.lydia.ee. Named after Lydia Koidula, the matriarch of Estonian poetry, the this plush restaurant offers the Kadriorg area’s most formal dining. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 20:00 - 19:00.
Restoran & Spaghetteria Kadriorg G-5, Weizenbergi 18, tel. 601 36 36, info@restorankadriorg.ee, www.restorankadriorg.ee. This trendy, glass-covered cube of a restaurant fits perfectly with the poshness of the area and offers loads of Italian and French gourmet dishes. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00.
Villa Thai G-4, J. Vilmsi 6, tel. 641 93 47, villathai@villathai.ee, www.villathai.ee. A quiet, comfortable affair specialising in excellent Thai favourites as well as Tandoori, Indonesian, Malaysian and Vietnamese dishes. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

Kadriorg comments Add Yours

  • Anna-Elina - Tallinn 08 June 2010
    The information you gave here is lovely. Thank you!
  • onanenoni - las vegas 14 April 2009
    its so nise

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