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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps TALLINN October - November 2008 Tallinn wine culture The best places in the city to enjoy your favorite glass of grape N°62 - 35kr / €2.25 www.inyourpocket.com CONTENTS 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving Getting here is half the fun 5 6 10 12 16 The Basics Helpful things everyone should know History Learn it, or you’re doomed to repeat it Culture & Events Concerts, art galleries, cinema and more Ahhh... all the elements are in place. More on p.64 Where to stay A bed for every budget Wine Culture Wine, women and Tallinn 64 Dining & Nightlife Where to eat From pigeons to sushi Cafés The hottest places in the caffeine scene Nightlife Where to pick up or get picked up 30 53 56 Sightseeing Old Town The medieval centre in a nutshell Sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or on foot Museums Covering city history, bombs and marzipan 66 68 70 Transport & Communication Getting around Navigating Tallinn and travelling onward Mail & Phones Phone home, log on, or send a postcard 74 81 82 Shopping Cool souvenirs and fashion purchases Directory Business Lifestyle Health Officials 88 90 91 92 93 95 96 98 99 October - November 2008 Maps & index Street register Old Town map City map Country map Index Fancy a stroll on these pretty leaves ? 4 FOREWORD Welcome to Tallinn, “the City of Good…” hmmm – well, we’re sure it’s the city of good something. Unlike Tartu and Narva and a host of other Estonian cities, Tallinn still hasn’t found its slogan yet. Actually Tallinn is the city of a great number of good things – good food, good architecture, good-looking men and women, good clubs, good history and, as of recently, good fashion and good wine. We would even go so far as to say all of the above items are great in Tallinn. But what is that one thing that defines Tallinn? No matter what that one thing is, we’re certain you’ll find something fascinating about this ancient city. From the Hanseatic merchant houses to the many green spaces, to the fortifications and underground tunnels, the city formerly known as Reval was and is a thriving European city at the cross-roads between East and West. So grab a friend, stick a memory card in your camera, put Tallinn in your pocket and hit the cobblestones of this beautiful, medieval city and perhaps along the way you could think of that one thing that embodies the spirit of Tallinn. We’d love to hear what you think it might be. You can send us your ideas to tallinn@inyourpocket.com. With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit newsstands before Christmas. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is our new, much improved website, coming soon to public beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket. com, and let us know what you think via email: editor@inyourpocket.com is our address. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OÜ Linnajuht 1997-2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). ARRIVING Europe In Your Pocket As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away. 5 By bus Buses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-4), just off the main highway from Tartu, but Eurolines passengers coming in from Riga or Vilnius should strongly consider hopping off at the much more central Viru väljak stop (ask other passengers where), rather than continuing on to the bus station itself. Once at the station, you’ll find left luggage in the basement. The cash-only currency exchange takes all major currencies, including Russian roubles, but gives appallingly bad rates. The ATM by the main entrance is probably a better bet. Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tänav from behind the station. Buses N°17A, 23 and 23A leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse väljak (4th stop) in the centre, while trams N°2 and 4 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru väljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about 90kr. By ship Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port (reisisadam), terminals A, B and C. Left Luggage and a helpful tourist information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services, but no tourist information. Lindaline’s boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour, where a currency exchange booth is open whenever boats are arriving. Rates here are decent. Getting to town You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for 60-70kr. By car Crossing the border from Latvia is fairly hassle-free. Now that the Baltics are in the EU queues move very swiftly. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your car’s registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border station. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies in the ‘Getting around’ section of this guide. Cover story The picture featured on the cover of this issue of T allinn In Your Pocket shows a tiny little window on Laboratooriumi street. The window is one of several very tiny lookouts that can be found at the UkranianGreek Catholic church. The photo was taken by our very own Küllike Johannson Singer. By plane Tallinn’s airport may be a super-modern affair, but it’s so small you’re never in danger of getting lost. Once past the controls, you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental offices are downstairs. Getting to town A taxi from the airport should cost roughly 125kr. The more frugal can take bus N°2, which leaves every 20 - 30 minutes from in front of the arrivals hall, to the centre of town, i.e. the A. Laikmaa stop next to the Viru Hotel/shopping centre. A ticket from the driver costs 20kr, and the ride takes nine minutes. By train Arriving by train at Tallinn’s Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. The station itself has just undergone renovation that finally brings it into the modern age, adding a posh restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off the breezeway that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors. Getting to town Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tänav into Old Town, or take trams N°1 or 2 from behind the station three stops to the Mere pst. stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Tallinn In Your Pocket Vana-Viru 4, Tallinn 10111 Estonia tel./fax +372 644 64 70 advertising tel. +372 631 33 50 tallinn@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1406-2690 ©OÜ Linnajuht Printed by Reusner, Tallinn Published six times per year 10,000 - 13,000 copies Editorial Editor Nat A. Singer Contributor Steve Roman Researcher Helle Pohl-Raidla Layout & Design Nat A. Singer, Küllike Johannson Singer Photography Küllike Johannson Singer, Nat A. Singer Using taxis in Tallinn Tallinn’s taxis are notorious for overcharging - even the city’s own mayor has gotten ripped off. Drivers either set high rates or fix their meters to run at lightning speeds. There’s no sure-fire way to avoid the cheats, but there are precautions you can take. Get to know the average rates, and check the prices listed on the car’s right rear door. These consist of a base fare which is usually 30 - 45kr, and a per-kilometer charge that’s normally 7 - 10kr/km. Another good idea is to order a taxi by phone from an actual taxi company, rather than taking your chances getting one off the street. Turn to the ‘Getting around’ section of this guide for phone numbers and fare details. Barring that, you can ask the driver for an estimate of how much the ride will be beforehand. To report a cheat, call the 24-hour hotline, tel. 1345. Getting cash You should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn - cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on weekends, however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates and also runs an all-night exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates aren’t as good as what they are during the daytime. Beware of bright blue and yellow Monex exchanges around town. These have convenient locations and working hours, but generally give unfavourable rates and even charge a 50-100kr commission on each transaction. Sales & Circulation General /Ad Manager Küllike Johannson Singer Advertising representative Kätlin Kuus Sales & Circulation Marek Pärn Publisher OÜ Linnajuht Cover Photo: Küllike Johannson Singer © 2008 Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 6 BASICS National holidays January 1 New Year’s Day February 24 Independence Day (1918) March 21 Good Friday March 23 Easter Sunday May 1 May Day June 23 Victory Day (1919 Battle of Võnnu - Cēsis) June 24 St. John’s Day (Midsummer) August 20 Day of Restoration of Independence (1991) December 24 Christmas Eve December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Boxing Day BASICS Basic data Tallinn Population: 402,586 Density: 2,600 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 54%, Russians 37%, Ukrainians 4%, Belarusians 2%, Others 3% 7 Tourist information points Tourist Information Centre in Old Town C-2, Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, tel. 645 77 77, fax 645 77 78, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism.tallinn.ee. The city's official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Viru väljak 4, tel. 610 15 57/610 15 58, fax 610 15 59, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism.tallinn. ee. A scaled-down version of the above, this one stays open later. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Estonia Borders Until 1998 Estonia stood staunchly by the conviction that its border with Russia was set by the Tartu Peace Treaty of 1920. In reality, however, border controls have been maintained along the line unilaterally set by Russia in 1991. Estonia and Russia initialled a border agreement on March 5, 1998, ceding the disputed territory to Russia. Now that Estonia belongs to the European Union, its border with Russia is also the border between the EU and Russia. Shengen Border zone - As of December 21st 2007, Estonia now belongs to the Schengen visa area, which includes: Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain and Sweden. What does this mean exactly? Well, it means that if you are travelling to Estonia from within the Schengen border control-free area, you will not be required to show any documentation when you arrive in Estonia, whether it be by ship, plane or by car, in fact you will not have to go through customs at all. Of course if you arrive in Estonia from outside the Schengen zone you will still be required to show your passport or EU identity card if applicable. For more information on Shengen and how it might apply to you, log on to the Estonian Foreign Ministry’s website at www.vm.ee/eng. Population: 1,342,409 Density: 30 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.6%, Russians 25.6%, Ukrainians 2.1%, Byelorussians 1.2%, Finns 0.8%, Others 1.6% Territory: 45,227km2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics) is Suur Munamägi (318m) in Võru County Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Lakes: Lake Peipsi, on the Russian border, covers an area of 3,555km2, of which 1,529km2 is in Estonia. It also holds the title as the 4th largest lake in Europe. Rivers: Estonia’s longest rivers are the Pärnu 144km, Kasari 112km, and Emajõgi 101km Other cities: Tartu 101,000, Narva 67,000, KohtlaJärve 48,000, Pärnu 46,000 Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October. Tourist Information Centre in Viru Keskus C-4, Visas Now that Estonia is in the European Union, lucky citizens can conveniently enter Estonia with just a national ID card. All others need valid passports. You can enter Estonia visafree and stay 90 days if you’re a citizen of any EU country, Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Argentina, South Korea and a number of other countries listed on the website below. All others, including South Africans, Russians, Byelorussians and Ukrainians do need a visa to come to Estonia. South Africans may enter Estonia if they hold a visa for Latvia or Lithuania. Anyone staying in Estonia for more than 90 days (180 days for UK citizens) needs either residents permit or a visa, though there are certain very specific exceptions for EU citizens. For all the details, contact the consular department of the Foreign Ministry, tel. 631 74 40, or check their website, www.vm.ee, which has more information than you’ll ever need. Customs European alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia headed to another EU country, you can take out as much booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for your personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU country, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in duty-free 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10 litres of hard alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When leaving, beware of stricter tobacco restrictions if you’re headed to the UK, Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky travellers from non-EU countries can carry in a measly 2 litres of wine (not exceeding €175EUR in combined value), 2 litres of beverages up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard alcohol; 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250g pure tobacco. How much booze and smokes you can take home depends on your own country’s restrictions. For more information, contact the Customs Department, Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 696 74 36/696 74 35, info@ customs.ee, www.emta.ee. Money Urgent care The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11 45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tõnismäe pharmacy (see pharmacies). For dramatic situations that require an ambulance, call tel. 112. Emergency operators speak English. The Estonian kroon (rhymes with ‘tone') is pegged to the Euro at €1 to 15.65kr. Keep in mind that Euros are not legal currency here yet since Estonia won't join the common currency for several years to come. Paper bills come in denominations of 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500kr. ATMs operating on international systems are ever present. Credit cards are easy to use in Tallinn - major hotels, most restaurants and a pretty much all downtown shops accept Visa, Mastercard Emergency telephone 112 Police telephone 110 Tallinn In Your Pocket Estonia’s telephone code is +372 October - November 2008 8 BASICS Public toilets Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing situation: A triangle pointing down signifies the men’s room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the women’s room (N or Naiste). For vistors with pressing needs, public toilets are few and far between. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) and in the underground crossing at (D-2), Vabaduse väljak. There is also a Swedishbuilt automatic WC on Toompea hill (C-1) nicknamed locally the ‘million-crown toilet’ due to the public outcry at its construction bill. It can be found next to the Nevski Cathedral. Those with disabilities can use the one in the foyer of the Troika restaurant on Town hall Square (C-2). BASICS Key phrases Hello Goodbye Please Thank you Excuse me Yes No Zero One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Hundred Thousand Push (on a door) Pull (on a door) Where is... ? How much does ... cost? I would like... Bon appetit! One beer, please! Cheers! What’s your name? You have beautiful eyes. Will you marry me? Tere Head aega Palun Aitäh Vabandust Jah Ei Null Üks Kaks Kolm Neli Viis Kuus Seitse Kaheksa Üheksa Kümme Sada Tuhat Lükka Tõmba Kus asub...? Kui palju maksab... Ma sooviksin... Head isu! Palun üks õlu! Terviseks! Mis sinu nimi on? Sul on ilusad silmad. Kas sa abielluks minuga? 9 Religion Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all tree-worshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isn’t a very religious country at all. There is no state religion, and according to the 2000 census, only 31.8% of the population claims any religious affiliation. Of those that do, about 180,000 are Lutheran and 170,000 Russian Orthodox. Language Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unrelated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-European tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in the tourist industry speak English. You can find some of the more essential words and phrases on here. www.inyourpocket.com Estonianisms Noh... Well.../Um... This sounds like ‘No’, but actually just means the speaker is temporarily tongue-tied On ju? Eks ju? Right? Isn’t it? Two interjections that punctuate Estonian speech Head isu! Bon appetit! ...or ‘Good Appetite’, as you will sometimes hear Jätku leiba! May there be enough bread! begins a meal. The polite answer is... Jätku tarvis. It’s needed. Jõudu tööle! Power to your work! Expression of goodwill, used when you come upon someone hard at work Jõudu tarvis Power needed The formulaic answer Tervist! Lit. Health! Ole tubli! Gesundheit!/Bless you! Take care, be good! In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 46 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com. Kuidas käsi käib? How are you? Lit. How does the hand go? Ikka käib Still goin’ Typically laconic Estonian reply In Your Pocket Europe’s City Guide inyourpocket.com E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 10 HISTORY Estonia through the ages 3,000BC Finno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east and settle along the north Baltic coast, mixing with Neolithic tribes. HISTORY Soviet occupation In the first years of the renewed Soviet regime, 36,000 Estonians are arrested and accused of aiding the Nazis. At the same time 30,000 - 35,000 people flee to the woods to resist the regime as Forest Brothers. In the years following, Estonia endures political repression and isolation, while Estonians who had fled to the West try to keep their culture alive in exile. During the post-Stalin period, life in Estonia takes on a bureaucratic routine similar to that found elsewhere in the USSR. Over the coming decades, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Russians are sent to live in the Estonian territory. In the 1970s and 80s, Finnish TV broadcasts give Tallinn residents a glimpse of life in the West. 11 A new republic 1992 After prices rose by 629% in 1991, the government introduces ration coupons. June 20 The Estonian kroon becomes the first national currency introduced in the former Soviet Union. 1st Century Roman historian Tacitus writes of a local tribe called Aestii. 1994 12th Century In 1154, Arab cartographer al-Idrisi marks Tallinn on his map as Koluvan, describing it as a seasonal stronghold - the first mention of the city in historic records. In 1202 the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans around the Baltic Sea. Bishop Albert founds the Order of the Knights of the Sword. This leads to four decades of bloody battles and shifting alliances among the Germans (based in Riga), Danes, Swedes, Russians, Lithuanians and local tribes. In 1219 King Voldemar II of Denmark takes the stronghold of the north Estonian Rävala people as a base for his forces (hence the name Tallinn: Taani = Danish, linn = city). German merchants settle the town, and in 1248 are granted the right to use Lübeck Law, effectively making Tallinn an autonomous entity. In the 1280s, Tallinn joins the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities. Estonian towns become important trading links between East and West and grow in size and strength. Ethnic Estonians, however, remain serfs while German landowners reap the benefits. The bloody St George’s Night Uprising of 1343 convinces the Danish King to sell his provinces to the German Knights two years later. September 28 852 people perish when the 15,000-tonne ferry Estonia sinks en route to Stockholm. 1998 1999 March 31 EU begins accession talks with Estonia. November 13 Estonia becomes the 135th member of the World Trade Organization (WTO). 13th Century The first republic Estonia takes advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, declaring independence on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in November Red forces move in. The War for Independence lasts 13 months. In the Tartu Peace Treaty, signed February 2, 1920, Soviet Russia renounces claims to the territory “for all time”. In 1921 the Republic of Estonia is accepted into the League of Nations. Reforms progress quickly and social welfare laws are on a par with those in Europe. A political crisis in the mid-1930s brings the young republic to the verge of authoritarianism. President Konstantin Päts bans political parties and restricts civil rights but maintains popular support. 1956 Surviving Estonians who had been deported to Siberia are allowed to return. 1977 February 24 The blue-black-white flag rises illegally over the Vanemuine Theatre in Tartu to mark the 59th anniversary of the first Estonian Republic. 2001 October 8 Arnold Rüütel is sworn in as president. 2004 1980 July 19-August 3 Moscow Olympic Games. Tallinn’s Olympic yachting centre, Pirita and Olümpia hotels and airport terminal are built for the occasion. March 29 Estonia joins NATO. May 1 Estonia becomes an EU member as the bloc expands to encompass ten new states. 2006 2007 14th Century Road to independence 1987 What had started as a series of environmental protests quickly develops into a new National Awakening as demonstrations against the system become more open. October 9 Toomas Hendrik Ilves becomes president. April 26 - 27 Street riots, mainly involving young, ethnic Russians, break out after protests over the relocation of a Soviet Army monument from the city centre. December 21 Estonia joins Schengen. World War II On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact, in which secret protocols carve Eastern Europe into spheres of influence. On June 16, 1940, the USSR accuses the Baltic states of aggression and demands the right to occupy them. ‘Elections’ take place July 14 - 15, with Soviet-approved candidates. The phoney parliament applies for admittance to the USSR, which is granted August 6. WWII continues to rage across Europe and by the end of 1941 the Nazis win Estonia from the Soviets. The German occupation lasts three years. Soviet forces begin air attacks March 15, 1942, and cause serious damage in the infamous attack of March 9, 1944. By September the Germans have fled. Estonia is declared a Republic again on September 18, but Soviet forces reach Tallinn four days later. 16th Century 1988 Estonians suffer another bout of shifting borders and imposed military service during the Livonian War (15581583). Ivan the Terrible advances claims on Estonia. Denmark and Poland enter the fray, but Sweden quickly gains control of the territory. Intermittent warfare with Poland lasts into the next century. 17th Century The Swedish period in Estonian history is marked by cultural advancement. Tartu University opens in 1632 and by the close of the century nearly every parish has a school. In 1645 Denmark cedes Saaremaa to Sweden, joining Estonia under a single force for the first time. June 10-14 Over 100,000 people a night pack the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. The events of the summer are henceforth known as the Singing Revolution. September 11 More than 300,000 Estonians gather at the Song Grounds and hear Trivimi Velliste make the first public demand for independence. November 16 In a move known as the beginning of the end for the Soviet Union, the Supreme Soviet of the Estonian SSR passes a declaration of sovereignty. Tallinn‘s founding legend Stick around Tallinn long enough and you’re bound to hear the name Kalev bandied about. There are countless Kalev sports teams and there’s even a Kalev brand of chocolate. But just who was this Kalev person? Kalev is in fact a mythical giant from Tallinn’s distant past who is credited with founding the city. As the story goes, Kalev was sailing the seas looking for a spot to land and establish a kingdom. Eventually a prophecy led him to what is now Estonia’s capital. Upon Kalev’s death, his wife Linda was so stricken with grief that she over-did his burial mound, piling enough stones on his grave to form Toompea hill, which to this day looms over Old Town. When the contentious Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral was built on the hill at the beginning of the 20th century, a rumour was spread that Kalev’s ghost would haunt anyone who inter fered with the construction. Nobody did. Arguably an even more important figure in the Estonian tradition is Kalev’s son, Kalevipoeg. Tales of Kalevipoeg’s adventures were set down in the form of an epic poem of the same name by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald and published in 1857. At the time Estonia was undergoing a literary and cultural awakening, and Kalevipoeg became both a focal point for national identity and a major step in founding an Estonian literary tradition. 1989 18th Century Tallinn, Tallinna or Reval? The evolution of the name ‘Tallinn’ is a confusing tale. For centuries, the town was more commonly known German name, Reval. The actual name Tallinn is from the Danish period (1219-1346). The Danes then referred to Tallinn as Castrum Danorum, which basically means Danish castle. Translated into Estonian it became tannin lidna. Abbreviate this and it’s easy to see how you get Tallinn. Even after the Danes left, many Estonians continued to use the name Tallinn while almost everyone else preferred Reval. It was only in 1918 after independence from Russia that Reval was totally dropped. For a while both Tallinn and Tallinna were then used. In 1925 Tallinna was declared official, but soon after Estonia changed its mind and in 1933 Tallinn became the final name for the nation’s capital city. Sweden battles Russia, Denmark and Poland in the Northern War (1700-1721), losing Estonia to Russia in 1710. During the 200 years of tsarist rule that follow, Estonia’s peasants live in the same conditions of near-slavery as the serfs of Russia. In 1739 the Bible is published in Estonian. February 24 The Estonian flag is raised over Tallinn, inciting protests and massive strikes. August 23 Two million people join hands along the 600km road between Tallinn and Vilnius to mark the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. November 12 The Estonian Supreme Soviet nullifies Estonia’s entry into the USSR. 1990 19th Century So-called Estophiles study the local language and found consciousness-raising societies. Literacy spreads and Estonian-language periodicals appear. The second half of the century is marked by the National Awakening: the formation of a national consciousness among Estonians and an active period of scholarship and literary creation. The first song festival, held in Tartu in 1869, represents the first public demonstration of Estonian national identity. Tsar Alexander III stifles this when he comes to the throne in 1881, initiating a period of intense Russification. March 23 The Estonian Communist Party declares independence from the central party. May 8 The ESSR is officially renamed the Republic of Estonia, despite not yet having declared independence. 1991 March 3 78% of voters cast their vote for independence in a referendum. August 19 During the failed Moscow coup, additional Soviet military units are moved to Estonia from Pskov, Russia. August 20 Estonia declares independence. August 23 Lenin’s statue comes down in Tallinn. August 24 Russia recognises Estonian independence. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 12 CULTURE & EVENTS While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums and galleries, and even an art-house cinema. Check these pages to see what’s coming up. An exhaustive calendar of cultural events is available at www.culture.ee CULTURE & EVENTS Major events Good New Sound Oct 02 – 04, various locations, huh@huh.ee, www.huh.ee. Is there such a thing as a good new sound? The folks over at Huh certainly think so. In what has become an annual event you’ll hear a wide range of sounds and musical styles from some of Estonia’s top experimental performers and international innovators alike. Perhaps you’ll even get a chance to discover the next Lennon or Mozart in the making. 13 Smaller museums/galleries 58 38, adamson-eric@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist AdamsonEric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century building in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Through Nov 23: Latvian Modernism from the Beginning of the 20th Century - Niklavs Strunke (1894-1966). QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30kr. J Adamson-Eric Museum C-1/2, Lühike jalg 3, tel. 644 Move over, Cannes! 12th Annual Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival, Nov 13 - Dec 09, Coca-Cola Plaza, Kosmos cinema and other venues to be announced, www.poff.ee. If you missed this one last year like we did you will barely be able to forgive yourself. Estonia‘s biggest film festival concentrates on world cinema in all its diversity, with the emphasis on European films. Sub-festivals present animated films, student films and children’s and youth films. Major art museums Kadriorg Palace - Art Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. 606 64 00, fax 606 64 01, kadriorg@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. You could easily say that Peter the Great's spectacular Northern Baroque palace is a work of art in and of itself, but the palace is also home to Estonia's museum of foreign art. Paintings by 16th- 18th-century Dutch, German, Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century Russian works make up most of what's on display. Intriguing examples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found here. Through December: Kadriorg 290. The Palace and Its Story. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Flower Garden is open in October 09.00-21.00. Admission 55kr. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 70kr. 61 23, fax 602 60 02, muuseum@ekm.ee, www.ekm. ee. Winning the title 'European Museum of the Year 2008' , Estonia's largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia's past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through Oct 12: Eerik Haamer - On Both Sides of the Sea; Through Nov 23: Fluxus; Through Jan 20: Grand Tour. Estonian Artists in Italy. Estonian art from 19th and 20th centuries; Oct 10 - through Dec: Utopia of Freedom. Artistic innovations of the late 1950's; Oct 31 - Jan 11: Sabotaging Reality. Surrealism in European Photographic Art in 1922-1947; Nov 27 - Feb 01: Video installation "Elephant Bullet". QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to permanent exhibition 60kr, contemporary art 35kr, exhibitions in the Great Hall 50kr; all exhibitions 80kr. 2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. 644 28 18, info@kunstihoone. ee, www.kunstihoone.ee. Drop into this imposing 1930sera building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall's separate, smaller gallery (where admission is free) next door at Vabaduse väljak 6 hosts separate exhibitions. Through Oct 12: Andrei Monastõrski (Moscow), video and installation; Oct 22 - Nov 30: Ando Keskküla (1950-2008) retrospective exhibition "Museum". QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 35kr. Admission free on the last day of each exhibition. ee, www.etdm.ee. Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 40kr. J Applied Art Museum (Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) B-2, Lai 17, tel. 627 46 00/627 46 11, info@etdm. City Gallery (Linnagalerii) D-2, Harju 13, tel. 644 28 18, info@kunstihoone.ee, www.kunstihoone.ee. A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often boldly experimental, art exhibitions. The website lists the detailed schedule. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. Design & Architecture Gallery D-3, Pärnu mnt. 6, grynberg.ltd@mail.ee. Changing exhibition of Estonian product design. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. GRACE 2008 Oct 03, 19:00, Kalev Spordihall, www. grace.ee. Hey, we could all use a little gospel every now and again. Headlining this year’s event is Hillsong, an Australian praise group whose albums have reached gold around the world. Also set to be a big draw is the Oslo Gospel Choir and with their albums having reached platinum, we expect a good old-fashioned gospel showdown. But don’t worry, there will be paramedics on-site just in case it gets holy. Tallinn International Horse Show 2008 Oct 03 – 05, Saku Suurhall, www.sakusuurhall.ee, www. tallinnhorseshow.ee. “Hi-yo Silver, away!” Celebrating its seventh year, the Tallinn International Horse show is set to be an equestrian experience extraordinaire. Horses and riders from all over Europe will try to jump and trot their way to a hoofed victory in this Central European League World Cup event. Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. 602 60 00/602 lemadu@yahoo.com, www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex. htm. The famous Dragon gallery holds small exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex. htm. The Estonian Artists' Union operates this cosy, two-storey gallery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. Draakoni Gallery C-2, Pikk 18, tel. 646 41 10, tu- The Music of Andrew Lloyd Webber Oct 18, 14:00, Saku Suurhall, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Dedicated to the celebration of the 60th birthday of the king of musicals, this sure to be sold-out event will feature the singing talents of several of the soloists from his shows in London, including Rachel Barell, Jacqui Scott, David Shannon and Simon Bowman as well as some other musical instruments and orchestras thrown in for good measure. This amount of talent is guaranteed to put a gay smile on even the saddest of faces. The Scorpions Humanity World Tour 2008 Nov 02, 20:30, Saku Suurhall, w w w.sakusuurhall.ee, w w w.city-concer t.ee. With 21 albums under their belts, the Scorpions continue to please crowds at stadiums world-wide, not bad for a bunch of old German men dressed in tight leather pants – but isn’t that how all older German men dress? All stereotyping aside, this should be a great rock show performed by one of Europe’s most loved bands, even Vladimir Putin digs them and could even be seen mouthing the words to “Wind of Change” when they performed at a recent KGB shindig. St. Martin’s Day Fair (Mardilaat) Nov 06 - 09, Saku Hobusepea Gallery B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. 627 67 Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery (Tallinna Kunstihoone) D- Kastellaanimaja Gallery H-4, Roheline aas 3, tel. 601 31 81, vilde@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum. ee/vilde. Exhibitions by local artists in the Eduard Vilde museum. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10kr. Free every last Friday of the month. Kuninga 6, tel. 644 68 73, galerii@kullo.ee, www.kullo. ee. Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works by the coming generation of Estonian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 6kr. lywood.ee. What do you get when you mate a DJ with a British punk rock girl? Never mind the Sex Pistols, here’s the Klaxons! There probably won’t be any air-raid sirens screaming at the intimate Tallinn show, however you can expect a lively bunch of indieBrit-punk-dance shenanigans, some loud guitar noise and at least a few fans getting wasted on tequila in the back. Klaxons Oct 06, 20:00, Club Hollywood, www.clubhol- Kullo Children's Gallery (Kullo Lastegalerii) C-2, Mikkel Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 28, tel. 601 58 44, mikkel@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum is one of Estonia's most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. QOpen 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25kr. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 70kr. Museum of Estonian Architecture B-4, Ahtri 2, tel. 625 70 00/625 70 07, info@arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Tallinn's architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiousity. The permanent exhibition in the basement, 'History Reflected in Architecture', runs through December. Temporary exhibitions are held on upper floors. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30kr. Rocktoberfest Oct 17 – 18, 19:00, Rock Café, www. rockcafe.ee. Who cares about Oktoberfest when you’ve got Rocktoberfest. This annual two-day rock event brings together some of the best new-rock bands this side of Lillehammer for a rowdy, ear-splitting good time. And get this, you’ll still get to drink all the beer that you want, wear Lederhosen and pinch the asses of a Freulein or two. Just don’t tell them we said it was okay. Performers include: The Haunted (SWE), Clawfinger (SWE), Leech (EST) and many more. Monster mashed Monster Magnet Nov 11, 19:30, Rock Café, www. rockcafe.ee, www.fbi.ee. It has often been said that to be able to create good rock music you either have to have been raised in a cold dark climate or some other kind of depressing environment. Well, the monsters do come from New Jersey, Nuff said. This will be a loud rock show where the men are men and the women dance naked... we kid you not. Enough reason right there if you ask us. Suurhall, www.folkart.ee. In honour of St. Martin’s Day (see Folk Holidays box, page 14) the Estonian Folkart and Handicraft Union organises this fair involving workshops, handicraft sales, national cuisine, folk music, Mardi costumes and general promotion of folk lifestyle. Tallinn International Open Cup 2008 Nov 29 - 30 Saku Suurhall, w w w.sakusuurhall.ee, w w w. tkrevalia.ee. Brought to you by the Estonian Dance Spor t Association or EDSA for short, this all Latin dance competition will feature some of the best tans and sexiest legs from all over Estonia and Europe. Watch as these permanent smilers spin and twist and shake and strut their scantily-clad way to these coveted titles. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 14 CULTURE & EVENTS October cultural calendar Date Time Event Venue 01 12:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet 01 19:00 International Music Day: Berlioz. EO Romeo and Julia 02 19:00 Cinderella - opera EO 02 23:00 Funkdoobiest (USA) CP 03 19:00 La Sylphide - ballet EO 04 17:00 Tristan and Isolde - opera EO 04 17:00 Autumn Jazz: Andrea Marcelli Italian KU Trio feat. Raul Sööt & Ain Agan (ItalyEstonia) 04 20:00 Paul Gilbert (USA) RC 05 12:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet 05 17:00 Dominique Pifarely Trio (France) WG 07 19:00 Johann Strauss - King of Waltz and EO Operetta 08 19:00 Karamazov Brothers (Russia) WG 09 19:00 Vienna Blood - operetta EO 09 19:00 Tartu Jazz presents: Changing Images EC 09 19:30 Mikko Orpana (Finland) Man Machine KG - modern dance performance 10 19:00 My Fair Lady - musical EO 10 19:30 Mikko Orpana (Finland) Man Machine KG - modern dance performance 11 18:00 Great Music Academy TH 11 19:00 La Dame aux Camélias - ballet EO 11 19:00 Trio Romance - Opening of the Season BB 11 22:00 Billy’s Band (Russia) CA 12 12:00 Rigoletto - opera EO 14 19:00 Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Dancing Sportsmen 15 19:00 Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra EC (Norway) 15 19:00 Rigoletto - opera EO 16 19:00 Don Quijote - ballet EO 16 19:00 Golden Mask/Songs of Komitas RT - dance performance (Natalia Kasparova, Russia) 16 21:00 Autumn Jazz: Ajavares (Estonia) VK 17 19:00 Armastuse Valem (Formula of Love) EO - opera; World Premiere! 18 14:00 Andrew Lloyd Webber 60 - Anniversary SS Gala 18 16:00 Early music consort Hortus Musicus VT EO 18 19:00 Armastuse Valem (Formula of Love) - opera 18 20:00 Andrew Lloyd Webber 60 - Anniversary SS Gala 19 12:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet 20 19:00 Autumn Jazz: The Romanian-American KU Jazz Summit Sam Newsome & Lucian Ban Sextet (USA-Romania) 21 19:00 Grand Opera Café Concert - Kädy EO Plaas (soprano), Terje Terasmaa (vibraphone), Arvo Leibur (violin), Heiki Mätlik (guitar) 21 19:00 Alessandra Russo (flute, Italy) and Ave EC Kruup (piano, Estonia) 22 19:00 Don Quijote - ballet EO 22 19:00 Estonian-Ukrainian folkband Svjata WG Vatra 22 19:00 Yuri Bashmet and Moscow soloists EC 23 19:00 Tosca - opera EO 23 19:00 Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir NC conducted by Daniel Reuss 24 19:00 La Dame aux Camélias - ballet EO CULTURE & EVENTS Venue abbreviations BB CA CH CP EC EO KG KP KU LH ME NC RT SC SS SY TH TZ VK VT WG Brotherhood of the Blackheads; Pikk 26 Café Amigo; Viru väljak 4/6 Club Holywood; Vana-Posti 8 Club Privé; Harju 6 Estonia Concert Hall; Estonia pst.4 Estonian National Opera; Estonia pst.4 Kanuti Guild Hall; Pikk 20 Kadriorg Palace; Weizenbergi 37 KUMU Art Museum; Weizenbergi 34 Linnahall; Mere pst.20 G. A. Gymnasium; Suur-Kloostri 3 Niguliste Church; Niguliste 3 Russian Theatre; Vabaduse Sq. Salme Culture Centre; Salme 12 Saku Suurhall; Paldiski mnt.104B Stenboch Yard; Rahukohtu 3 Tallinn Town Hall - Raekoda Tallinn Zoo; Paldiski mnt 145/Ehitajate 150 Von Krahl; Rataskaevu 10/12 Väravatorn, Gate Tower; Lühike jalg 9 Winter Garden of Est. Ntl. Opera; Estonia pst.4 15 November cultural calendar Date Time 01 18:00 01 19:00 01 21:00 02 17:00 04 19:00 04 19:00 05 05 05 06 06 06 07 07 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Event Venue Romeo and Juliet - Ballet EO Early music consort Hortus Musicus NC Glenn Hughes (UK) RC All Souls’ Day Concert: Mozart. KC Requiem Aida - opera (concert performance) EC EO Johann Strauss - King of Waltz and Operetta Autumn Jazz: Brian Melvin 50 (USA- SC Estonia) La Sylphide - ballet EO ConcertJazz - Jaak Tuksam (vocal, WG guitar), Riho Sibul (vocal, guitar), Robert Jürjendal (guitar) The Queen of Spades - opera EO Fathers’ Day’s Concert - Estonia EC National Opera Boys Choir, Estonia National Male Choir Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Fine5 Dance Theatre „Faasid“ (Phases) Romeo and Juliet - Ballet EO Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Fine5 Dance Theatre „Faasid“ (Phases) Hit Show: Pippi and Winnie the Pooh EO in Estonia Benjamin Verdery (guitar, USA) ME The Queen of Spades - opera EO Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Fine5 Dance Theatre „Faasid“ (Phases) Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet Tango Ballet - chamber dance EO performance Death and The Maiden - dance EO performance Vox Clamantis - Toomas Trass (organ) NC Vienna Blood - operetta EO Cinderella - opera EO Estonian National Opera Wind Quintet ME My Fair Lady - musical EO Swan Lake - ballet EO Rudolf Tobias. Oratio Des Jona EC Sendung / Johah’s Mission Early music consort Hortus Musicus VT Romeo and Juliet - Ballet EO My Fair Lady - musical EO La Vie En Rose - French music EO My Fair Lady - musical EO Rigoletto - opera EO My Fair Lady - musical EO Tosca - opera EO Swan Lake - ballet EO Cinemas Tallinn's cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids' films are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles. You can always find out what's playing by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak English. Coca-Cola Plaza G-3, Hobujaama 5, tel. 1182, info@ forumcinemas.ee, www.superkinod.ee. This high-tech, 11screen super cinema is most people's first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Tickets for evening shows cost 120kr. Kinomaja C-3, Uus 3, tel. 646 40 68/55 56 12 64, kinomaja@kinoliit.ee, www.kinomaja.ee. Run by Estonia's cinema union, the 'Cinema House' concentrates on the esoteric and obscure. Q W kinod.ee. Run by the same company as Coca-Cola Plaza, this two-screen cinema also has a strong Hollywood bent, but ticket prices are much cheaper. Q Closed Mon. Kosmos H-2, Pärnu mnt. 45, tel. 1182, www.super- Date Time Event Venue 24 19:00 Festival Piano - Opening concert EC 25 12:00 Hit Show: Pippi and Winnie the Pooh EO in Estonia 25 16:00 Festival Piano - Sten Lassmann (piano) EC 25 19:00 Festival Piano - Stephen Hough (piano, EC Great Britain) 25 19:00 Tosca - opera EO 26 16:00 Festival Piano - The Winner of Estonian EC Pianists Competition 2008 27 19:00 Autumn Jazz: Krakauer’s Klezmer RT Madness! (USA) 28 19:00 Simple Plan (Canada) RC 29 19:00 Tango Ballet - chamber dance EO performance 30 19:00 Wallenberg - opera by E.-S. Tüür EO 30 19:00 Nikolai Baskov and Montserrat Marti LH Caballe - concert 30 19:00 Psychea (Russia) RC 31 19:00 Wallenberg - opera by E.-S. Tüür EO Sõprus D-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. 644 19 19, info@kino.ee, www.kino.ee. Tallinn's art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian poductions, shorts and kids' films. Tickets 50 - 100kr. 08 12:00 08 18:00 08 19:00 08 19:00 09 09 11 12 12 14 14 18 20 21 22 22 23 23 26 27 28 29 30 12:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 16:00 19:00 12:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 12:00 Concert halls Estonia Concert Hall D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 60, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee. The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Sun open 1 hr before scheduled concerts. Estonian National Opera D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 683 12 01/683 12 60, fax 631 30 80, info@opera.ee, www. opera.ee. Tallinn's pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and frequent performances by internationally-renowned guests. Tickets cost up to 600kr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. House of the Brotherhood of the Blackheads (Mustpeade Maja) B-3, Pikk 26, tel. 631 31 99, Folk holidays in autumn All Souls’ Day Nov 02. Estonians don’t celebrate Halloween, but they do have a day to honour their dead. All Souls’ Day (Hingedepäev) is a solemn, private affair in which the dead are honoured by placing candles in windows or on graves. Indeed any cemetery visited on that night will be filled with the eerily beautiful glow of flickering flames. info@mustpeademaja.ee, www.mustpeademaja.ee. This ornate 15th-century guild hall hosts the occasional classical music concerts Q Box office open one hour before performance. Linnahall A-4, Mere pst. 20, tel. 641 15 00/641 16 00, info@linnahall.ee, www.linnahall.ee. That massive grey monolith at the harbour hosts pop concerts and occasional big names. Q Box office open 11:00 - 19:00. St. Martin’s Day (Mardipäev) Nov 10. One of the most important holidays in the rural calendar, St. Martin’s Day traditionally marks the end of the autumn season. Young folks in the countryside put on costumes and go door to door, singing and begging for treats. St. Catherine’s Day (Kadripäev) Nov 25. The female equivalent of Mardipäev, with similar activities. Instead of animal masks however, revellers of both genders dress as women. Don’t ask. Tickets you say? Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletimaailm H-3, Gonsiori 2, tel. 667 33 37, www.piletimaailm.ee and Piletilevi C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, www.piletilevi.ee. Estonia's major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 60, fax 614 77 69, info@ concert.ee, www.concert.ee. Niguliste Museum-Concert Hall C-2, Niguliste 3, tel. 631 43 30, fax 631 43 27, niguliste@ekm.ee, www. ekm.ee. Organ music concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. For more on this 13th-century Gothic church, see What to see. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 35kr. Saku Suurhall Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. 660 02 00/626 11 11, sakusuurhall@sakusuurhall.ee, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events. 07 19, hortus@concert.ee. This 15th-century tower is the spiritual and physical home of early music ensemble Hortus Musicus. Väravatorn C/D-1/2, Lühike jalg 9, tel. 614 77 60/644 Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 16 WHERE TO STAY Tallinn’s hospitality industry has reached capacity. Last year the number of hotel rooms in Tallinn increased by a whopping 20%, bringing the total number of rooms to 7000. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better. Depending on when you book, don’t be surprised if you are able to get a room for below the prices we have listed in the guide. A fluctuating price system seems to be a new trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. WHERE TO STAY Symbol key N Payment in cash only U Facilities for disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms J Old Town location C Swimming pool P Air conditioning O Casino hhh Star rating (optional) H Conference facilities R LAN connection F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace 6 Pets allowed W WiFi connection 33/669 06 90, fax 669 06 91, sales@revalhotels. com, www.revalhotels.com. Originally built for the 1980 Olympics, this fully-modernized, 26-storey, downtown tower is now the proud flagship of the Reval Hotel chain ... and it’s no wonder. The long list of facilities here includes a gargantuan conference centre, a fitness centre with a spectacular view and a genuinely popular nightclub. The rooms won’t disappoint either, but for an unforgettable experience, book the top-floor sauna that faces Old Town. Q390 rooms (singles 1955 - 2268kr, doubles 2112 - 2581kr, triples 2738 - 3442kr, suites 2581 - 18000kr, apartments 5555 - 7040kr, family room 2738 - 3442kr). Extra bed 470kr. PHRUFL GKDCW hhhh 17 Reval Hotel Olümpia H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. 631 53 Cream of the crop Barons C/D-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja 2, tel. 699 97 00, fax 699 97 10, barons@baronshotel.ee, www.baronshotel.ee. Housed in a gorgeous Old Town bank building dating back to 1912, this business class beauty has managed to retain much of its architectural grandeur both inside and out. From the classy singles to the luxury suite, all rooms come complete with satellite television and internet access for those who like to stay in touch. Among the added bonuses are a bar, restaurant and upto-the-minute conference facilities. Q33 rooms (singles 1900kr, doubles 2200 - 2800kr, suites 3800 - 4200kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 200kr. PJHR6UILGKDW hhhh Savoy Boutique D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. 680 Domina Inn City D-2, Vana-Posti 11/13, tel. 681 39 00, fax 681 39 01, city@dominahotels.ee, www.dominahotels. com. In a refurbished 18th-century building next to Sőprus cinema, Domina City offers marblesque stylishness right in the heart of Old Town. Business travellers will appreciate the conference room and the fact that every room has its own computer with internet connection. Pricier ‘executive’ rooms are more spacious and have better views. Kids under 12 stay free. Q68 rooms (singles 2000 - 2800kr, doubles 2800 - 3200kr, suites 4000 - 4700kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 400kr. PJHR6LGKDW hhhh 00, fax 614 09 01, ilmarine@dominahotels.ee, www. dominahotels.com. Bringing a touch of class to the renewed port area, Domina Ilmarine spoils its guests with spacious split-level suites, charming standard rooms and an airy atrium/café. Full apartments are available in the building next door for guests who want a bit more privacy. In keeping with these high-tech times, free internet connection is available in all rooms and mini-offices are available for business people. Kids under 12 stay free. Q152 rooms (singles 2190kr, doubles 2346kr, suites 2425 - 3129kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 400kr. PHR6ULGKDW hhhh Domina Inn Ilmarine A-3, Pőhja pst. 23, tel. 614 09 66 88, fax 680 66 89, savoy@tallinnhotels.ee, www. savoyhotel.ee. Every bit as posh as the name implies, this Old Town establishment is a worthy addition to the growing boutique hotel market. Along with very tasteful rooms with oldfashioned touches (antique photos included), Savoy offers lots of little comforts like bathrobes, slippers and free local calls. And if you don’t have your own laptop, they’ll lend you one. Beautiful lobby café. Q43 rooms (singles 2034 - 2347kr, doubles 2425 - 2738kr, suites 3990 - 4303kr). Extra bed 550kr, pets 250kr. JH6UIGKW hhhhh Merchant’s House C-2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. 697 75 00, fax 697 75 01, info@merchantshousehotel.com, www.merchantshousehotel.com. This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th-century merchant’s house turned into a luxury, boutiquestyle hotel, so don’t be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic décor, tastefully fitted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed internet and fluffy bathrobes. You’ll also find a ‘relax room’, brasserie restaurant, café and an Ice Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot glasses. Q37 rooms (singles 1564kr, doubles 2200kr, triples 2600kr, suites 3100kr). Extra bed 400kr. PJRIGKDW hhhh Meriton Grand Hotel Tallinn G-2, Toompuiestee 27, tel. 667 71 11, fax 667 75 55, hotel@meritonhotels. com, www.meritonhotels.com. This establishment easily lives up to its imposing name by providing professional service and flawless décor, but what’s really ‘grand’ about the hotel are the sweeping views of Toompea hill from the landings, some rooms, and even the lift! Rooms are decorated with striking colour photos, and a few suites even have a jacuzzi. Don’t miss out on the free sauna and loads of other amenities. Q164 rooms (singles 2340kr, doubles 2650kr, suites 3900 - 7190kr). Extra bed 407kr, pets 300kr. PJ OH6UILGKDW hhhh Radisson SAS D-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel. 682 30 00, fax 682 30 01, reservations.tallinn@radissonsas.com, www.tallinn.radissonsas.com. From the immaculate furnishings to little touches like shoe buffers in the corridor, Radisson never misses a beat, proving there’s something to be said for painfully strict international standards of quality. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a definite business bent with its 14 conference rooms and office services, but families will appreciate the fact that kids under 17 stay free. Q280 rooms (singles 2065kr, doubles 2285kr, suites 5585 - 15990kr). Extra bed 390kr. PHRUIFLGKDW Schlössle C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. 699 77 00, fax 699 77 77, schlossle@schlossle-hotels.com, www. schlossle-hotels.com. The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlössle’s five-star appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you aren’t rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night. Q23 rooms (singles 3521 - 4100kr, doubles 4022 - 4601kr, suites 6667 - 14852kr). Extra bed 704kr, pets 250kr. PJHR6UILGKDW hhhhh St. Petersbourg C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. 628 65 00, fax 628 65 65, stpetersbourg@schlossle-hotels.com, www. schlossle-hotels.com. Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21stcentury travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation can find it here at the city’s oldest, continuously-running hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like deluxe artdeco furnishing and plush bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world charm. Bear in mind that rooms tend to be small. Q27 rooms (singles 2645 - 3083kr, doubles 3020 - 3459kr, suites 4930 - 5712kr). Extra bed 704kr, pets 500kr. JH6UIFLGKDW hhhh Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 October - November 2008 18 WHERE TO STAY 01, tallinn@swissotel.com, www.tallinn.swissotel.com. This luxury hotel located next to Stockmann gains bragging rights as Tallinn’s tallest building. We haven’t been able to take a look inside ourselves, but we’re sure you’ll find all the things you’d come to expect from the snooty Swissotel chain, including extravagant ballrooms, a high-end spa, state-of-theart technology and a militantly trained staff catering to your every whim. Q238 rooms (doubles 2574kr, suites 4000kr). Extra bed restricted to grand rooms only 626kr, breakfast 235kr. PHRUFLGKDCW WHERE TO STAY Swissotel H-3, Tornimäe 3, tel. 624 00 00, fax 624 00 19 Upmarket Baltic Hotel Imperial B/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. 627 48 00, fax 627 48 01, imperial@baltichotelgroup.com, www.imperial.ee. Part of the medieval Old Town wall runs right through this small, luxury hotel, and designers have wisely integrated it into the 21st-century interior to preserve the historical feel of the building. The Imperial’s management have aimed for a four-star level of quality, and with its bright rooms, beautiful sauna hall and elegant cheese restaurant (Estonia’s only), they got there. The size of the double rooms varies. Be sure to ask for one overlooking the neighbourhood’s picturesque cobbled streets. Q32 rooms (singles 2035kr, doubles 2500kr, suites 3130 - 5945kr). Extra bed 500kr. PJHRUIL GKDW hhhh Telegraaf C-3, Vene 9, tel. 600 06 00, fax 600 06 01, info@telegraafhotel.com, www.telegraafhotel.com. Brought to us by the same professional team that runs the renowned Three Sisters, this full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former bank turned communications building has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated with ‘French’ post cards’. Q86 rooms (singles 2974kr, doubles 3365kr, 8 suites 5478kr). Extra bed 550kr. PJHRUILGKDCW hhhhh Three Sisters A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. 630 63 00, fax 630 63 01, info@threesistershotel.com, www. threesistershotel.com. This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tänav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside old-fashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The library with fireplace and cosy wine cellar are nice extras. Q23 rooms (singles 3050 - 3440kr, doubles 3365 - 3755kr, suites 5795 - 6930kr). Extra bed 780kr, pets 500kr. PJHR6UILGKW hhhhh Viru Inn C-3, Viru 8, tel. 611 76 00, fax 641 83 57, viruinn@viruinn.ee, www.viruinn.ee. Set in a 15th-century house on Old Town’s main shopping street, this intimate, boutique hotel offers the quintessential Tallinn accommodation experience - wooden beams, curvy staircases and all. Each of its rooms and suites is a bit different, but all come complete with antique-style furnishings and other old-fashioned touches. Its modern bonuses include an enormous Jacuzzi, two saunas (free in mornings), an Italian café, a wine cellar and free airport pick-ups. Children under 12 stay at no extra charge. Q15 rooms (singles 2815kr, doubles 3130 - 3910kr, suites 4695 - 6260kr). Extra bed 550kr. PJHRUGKDCW Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru C-3, Viru 11, tel. 669 15 00, fax 669 15 01, hotel@vanawiru.ee, www.vanawiru.ee. It’s hard to imagine that a five-storey hotel with such a grandiose marble lobby - complete with an elevated walking bridge and Italian restaurant - could be tucked into this bustling part of Old Town, but a quick peek at Vana Wiru will remove all doubt. In addition to offering guests an unbeatable location and pristine rooms, the hotel caters to business travellers with in-room internet connections and WiFi in the lobby, and social types will appreciate the free admission to the nearby Venus nightclub to which guests are entitled. Find the main entrance around the corner off Müürivahe. Q82 rooms (singles 2000 2100kr, doubles 2400 - 3000kr, suites 3700 - 4600kr). Extra bed 500kr. JHRUILGKDW hhhh tels.ee, www.bern.ee. Hotel Bern, which is tucked into a courtyard that’s conveniently across from a grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swiss-style hospitality with its friendly and professional staff. Due to size restrictions the 50-room establishment hasn’t got many perks, but it does have a 24- hour bar, and breakfast is served in their petite, in-house restaurant. Q50 rooms (singles 1173 - 1486kr, doubles 1330 - 1643kr, suites 2269 - 2582kr). Extra bed 350kr, pets 250kr. PJ6UGKDW hhhh Bern C-3/4, Aia 10, tel. 680 66 30, bern@tallinnho- Clarion Hotel Euroopa G-3, Paadi 5, tel. 669 97 77, fax 669 97 70, info@euroopa.ee, www.euroopa.ee. Located in the port, they offer all the modern conveniences you’d expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such as your very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room hotel caters primarily to the business set, offering 6 conference rooms, wireless internet throughout the premises and includes a sauna and fitness centre which are both complimentary for guests. The 41 business rooms also come equipped with balconies that have views overlooking the bustling port area. Q185 rooms (singles 1878kr, doubles 2240kr, 4 suites 3200 - 5475kr). Extra bed 407kr, pets 200kr. Breakfast included. PHR6UFLGKDW hhhh L’Ermitage H-2, Toompuiestee 19, tel. 699 64 00, fax 699 64 01, info@lermitagehotel.ee, www.lermitagehotel.ee. A quiet, restful place to hermit yourself away - just as the French name implies - the centrally-located L’Ermitage pampers its guests with in-room creature comforts like minibars, flat pannel TVs and internet connections. Some rooms even have views of Toompea Castle, in case you lose yourself in introspection and forget what country you’re in. For a truly gigantic bathroom, be sure to request a ‘superior’ double. Q91 rooms (singles 1690kr, doubles 2112kr, suites 2582 - 3364kr). Extra bed 376kr. PJHRUILG KDW hhh Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 20 WHERE TO STAY Meriton Old Town Hotel A-3, Lai 49, tel. 614 13 00, fax 614 13 11, oldtown@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. A nice combination of modern comfort and historic surroundings are what’s offered in this tourist-class hotel at the edge of Old Town. The main building with its zigzagging corridors dates from the 19th century and houses somewhat small, but cheerfully decorated guest rooms. More interesting is the lobby, which contains part of the old city wall and the round, outer edge of the neighbouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the café here for cakes. Q41 rooms (singles 1404 - 1872kr, doubles 1700 - 1872kr). Extra bed 350kr. JRUILGKW WHERE TO STAY Reval Park Hotel & Casino H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, tel. 630 53 05, fax 630 53 15, park.sales@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. The lobby of this hotel houses the flashy Olympic Casino, so the ground floor is a lot like a miniature Vegas. The hotel itself, about a 15-minute walk from Old Town, has spacious double rooms with great views of the nearby park. Other plusses are the restaurant, which offers the only all-day buffet in Tallinn, and the swank Park Lounge in the cellar. Q121 rooms (singles 1017 - 1674kr, doubles 1252 - 1876kr, 2 suites 2942 - 4037kr). Extra bed 469kr, pets 469kr. POHR6ULGKW hhhh Scandic Palace E-2, Vabaduse väljak 3, tel. 640 73 00, fax 640 72 88, palace@scandichotels.com, www.scandichotels.com. For that classic, brass-trimmed, bell-hopping hotel experience, it’s hard to outdo the Scandic Palace. This old Tallinn standby manages to outclass many newer arrivals with little touches like wood-paneled elevators, trouser presses, and a nice, 1930s-style café next to the lobby. Ask for a room facing Old Town, overlooking the square. Breakfast included. Q86 rooms (singles 1670 - 2280kr, doubles 1980 - 2590kr, triples 2370 - 2980kr, suites 3474 - 5540kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 200kr. PHR6UFGKDW Sokos Hotel Viru C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. 680 93 00, fax 680 92 36, viru.reservation@sok.fi, www.viru.ee. Occupying an enviable spot on what’s generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnish-managed Sokos Viru Hotel offers an unbeatable combination of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiffy rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restaurants and a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail cravings. Q516 rooms (singles 1068 - 2707kr, doubles 1377 - 3019kr, suites 3411 - 5054kr, family rooms 1533 - 3175kr). Extra bed 422kr, pets 422kr. PJHR6ULGKDW 21 Spa hotels Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices here are for accommodation only, check their websites for details on their package deals. 649 33 01, kalevspa@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa. ee. Opened in 2006, this enormous, state-of-the-art facility brings Estonia’s spa phenomenon to the heart of the city. In addition to tidy guest rooms, complete spa packages are available, as are a beauty centre, a fitness centre and a restaurant with a view of the water park. The park includes three (count ‘em!) waterslides and a 50m swimming pool, Tallinn’s largest. Q100 rooms (singles 1300 - 2260kr, doubles 1500 - 2450kr, suites 2700 - 3400kr, Family rooms 2500 - 3100kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 200kr. JHR6UFLGKDCW hhh 88 22, fax 639 88 21, hotel@topspa.ee, reservation@topspa.ee, www.topspa.ee, www.hotels. tallink.com. Originally built for the 1980 Olympic Games, Pirita TOP SPA was renovated and reopened in 2003 as Tallinn’s most sprawling hotel and spa complex. It has ample space for its several shops, a beauty centre, restaurant, casino, pharmacy and optician, to say nothing of its extensive health facilites and several classes of guest rooms. A number of treatments are available, and use of the sauna and 25m swimming pool are free for guests. Take bus N° 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from bus station under Viru Centre Q267 rooms (singles 900 - 1000kr, doubles 1200 - 1300kr, suites 1700 - 1900kr, family room 1400 - 1500kr). Extra bed 300kr. HRUFL GKDCW hhh Kalev Spa Hotel B-3, Aia 18, tel. 649 33 00, fax Metropol B-4, Roseni 13, tel. 667 45 00/667 46 68, fax 667 46 60, booking@metropol.ee, www.metropol. ee. This eight-storey hotel in the happening tourist area near the port has long been popular with Scandinavian weekenders. Rooms are respectably furnished in dark wood and wood-simulated linoleum, and those from the fifth floor up have some decent views. Other plusses include the smart restaurant, casino, beauty salon, and exciting bowling packages complete with heavy breakfast. Q149 rooms (singles 1408kr, doubles 1612kr, suites 2206 - 2801kr). Extra bed 360kr, pets 360kr. HR6ULGKDW hhh fax 622 29 01, info@nordichotels.eu, www.nordichotels. eu. You certainly won’t be able to miss this stylish brassflanked, glass structure which has 137 m of cedar trees lining the roof. The hotel’s interior is thoughtfully designed, using natural materials which ooze warmth and comfort throughout. The Forum’s friendly staff have also been carefully selected to make sure travellers who pass through its doors are well looked after. Q267 rooms (singles 1330 - 2191kr, doubles 1643 - 2503kr, suites 3051 - 3912kr). Extra bed 470kr, pets 310kr. PJH6UIFLGKDCW Pirita TOP SPA Regati pst. 1, tel. 639 86 00/639 Nordic Hotel Forum C-4, Viru väljak 3, tel. 622 29 00, 00, fax 631 33 33, maestro@maestrohotel.ee, www.maestrohotel.ee. For those who like to be in the middle of the action, this six-storey hotel located at the epicentre of Tallinn’s Old Town bar scene is a classy choice. In keeping with the era of the hotel’s facade, the décor here was given a subtle touch of the 1930s (think Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot). Don’t leave without checking out the picture-postcard view of Toompea from the top-floor sauna. Q23 rooms (singles 1300kr, doubles 1500kr, suites 2900kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 300kr. PJHRGDW Old Town Maestro’s C/D-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. 626 20 St. Barbara E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. 640 00 40, fax Olevi Residents B-3, Olevimägi 4, tel. 627 76 50, fax 627 76 51, olevi@olevi.ee, www.olevi.ee. It’s hard to believe that what looks like an ancient, narrow, Old Town dwelling could house a seven-storey hotel complete with restaurant and sauna, but Olevi manages to do just that. Rooms are a little dated and the layout is confusing, but all in all a fairly comfortable choice. Be sure to ask about the substantial discounts for groups and individuals. Q37 rooms (singles 840kr, doubles 660 - 960kr, suites 1750 - 1900kr). Extra bed 300kr. JHGKDW Reval Hotel Central G-3, Narva mnt. 7c, tel. 633 98 00, fax 633 99 00, central.sales@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. This spiffy downtown hotel has a wide range of rooms and the same helpful services you’d expect from the rest of the Reval chain. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated with a modern flair. Children are well catered for in family rooms and the lobby café, which has an adjacent children’s play area. The hotel also has a beauty salon, and a little shop selling newspapers and magazines. Q245 rooms (singles 1000 - 1400kr, doubles 1200 - 1500kr, triples 1400 - 1800kr). Extra bed 422kr, pets 422kr. PH6UILGKDW hhh 640 00 41, reservations@stbarbara.ee, www.stbarbara. ee. More affordable than many other centrally located hotels in its class, the St. Barbara delivers the same high quality, but without certain extras like a lobby bar and sauna. The rooms here are a little lived-in, but quite nice, many featuring high ceilings and enormous windows. Be sure to ask about the interesting legends surrounding the saint from which the hotel got its name. Q53 rooms (singles 1450kr, doubles 1700kr, family room 2000 - 2600kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 390kr. PJH6LGKW Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel F-3, Sadama 11a, St. Olav Hotel C-2, Lai 5, tel. 616 11 80, fax 616 11 81, olav@olav.ee, www.olav.ee. Located a short jaunt from Town Hall Square and named for the Norwegian King St. Olaf, this recently renovated 15th century building now plays host to a hotel. The four-storey historical structure contains a labyrinth of hallways and richly decorated rooms presenting some interesting and very old architectural details. The staff are friendly and useful, however you may need a map to find your room. Q90 rooms (singles 1200 - 1400kr, doubles 1600kr, suites 2900 - 5000kr). Extra bed 400kr. PJHUGK hhhh Taanilinna Hotell C-3, Uus 6, tel. 640 67 00, fax 646 43 06, info@taanilinna.ee, www.taanilinna.ee. Management have lent one of Tallinn’s medieval names to this fittingly old-fashioned looking hotel in the heart of Old Town. The décor here sports deliberately quaint retro-touches, while all the fixtures are modern and even on the elegant side. Drop into the wine cellar for a glass of port. Q20 rooms (singles 1950kr, doubles 1490 - 2150kr, suites 2800kr). Extra bed 400kr. JHRULGKDW hhhh tel. 630 10 00, fax 630 10 10, spahotel@tallink. ee, www.hotels.tallink.com. Gigantic, bare-breasted sirens flanking the doors and a bright, groovy lobby bar are your first clues that this place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool bar in the hotel’s central atrium - the hightech establishment near the passenger port offers six conference rooms, a Fidel cigar bar and a beauty salon. Q275 rooms (singles 1080 - 2457kr, doubles, family rooms 21471 - 3302kr, suites 1941 - 4710kr). Extra bed 391kr. PHRULGKDCW hhhh fax 606 10 03, viimsispa@viimsispa.ee, www. viimsispa.ee. Just 9km from downtown Tallinn, the friendly and ultra-modern Viimsi Spa Hotel offers a full range of services in its health and beauty centres, and its leisure centre includes a 25m swimming pool and well-equipped gym. Use of the pool, saunas and weight room is free for guests, and a wide range of treatment packages is available. Summer guests will love the fact that the beach is just 600m away. Q102 rooms (singles 1090kr, doubles 1290kr, triples 1780kr, suites 2500kr, apartments 2390kr). Extra bed 490kr. HUFLG KDCW hhh Viimsi Spa Randvere tee 11, tel. 606 10 00, www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 22 WHERE TO STAY Mid-range 00, fax 680 66 01, portus@tallinnhotels.ee, www. portus.ee. A fairly new hotel just opposite the Passenger Port’s D-Terminal, Portus is a boon for economical travellers, offering decent rooms and services at a no-nonsense price. The friendly, slightly goofy interior makes it inviting, as do its Café Retro and free internet terminal in the lobby. Q107 rooms (singles 751 - 970kr, twin 829 - 1048kr, family room 1299 - 1518kr). Extra bed 350kr, pets 250kr. H6ULGKDW hhh WHERE TO STAY City Hotel Portus G-3, Uus-Sadama 23, tel. 680 66 Salzburg Pärnu mnt. 555, Laagri, tel. 650 39 90, fax 650 39 00, info@salzburg.ee, www.salzburg.ee. This hotel, located just past the Tallinn border has a style that is Austria über alles. Although there are no mountains or Fräuleins singing in the hills, the rooms are comfortable, affordable and have everything needed for a good night’s rest. The restaurant offers Austrian-themed dishes involving elk and wild boar, however if you’re not content to eat someone else’s trophy, the hotel will arrange hunting trips for guests. Q53 rooms (singles 360 - 560kr, doubles 560 - 800kr, triples 1050kr, suites 1500kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 250kr, caravan 300kr. PH6UIFLGKDCW hhh 630 34 00, susi@susi.ee, www.susi.ee. A popular stop for Finnish bus tours, Susi makes up for its edge-of-town location by offering all the services you could possibly require on site. It has everything from a complete business centre to a trusty hair and beauty salon. The hotel itself is stylish and interestingly decorated with local artwork. Both non-smoking and hypoallergenic rooms are available and suites come with a private sauna. Take tram N°2 or 4 to the end and walk 200m. Q101 rooms (singles 1015kr, doubles 1250kr, triples 1565kr, suites 2275kr). Extra bed 315kr, pets 315kr. PHR6ULGKDW hhh 23 Go Hotel Shnelli B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. 631 01 02, fax 631 01 01, reservations@gohotels.ee, www.gohotels.ee. This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinn’s newly revamped railway station, which happens to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style with a slight railroad theme. Those on the upper floors of the ‘Green Wing’ have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train buffs should book a room in the slightly cheaper ‘blue wing’ overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa. Q124 rooms (doubles 800 - 1350kr, Family rooms 1625kr). Extra bed 329, pets 329kr. JR6ULGKCW 83 01, info@hotelskane.eu, w w w.hotelskane.eu. Restoration has brought the stylish, mint-coloured, 1920s look back to the hallways and common areas of this historic hotel that overlooks the busy train station market area. Rooms, by contrast, are 21st century all the way. A colourful, brightly-lit restaurant adds to the ensemble. Breakfast included in the price. Q38 rooms (singles 690 - 736kr, doubles 850 - 920kr). Extra bed 300kr, pets 150kr. 6LGKW 601 26 00, sales@oruhotel.ee, www.oruhotel.ee. This three-storey hotel located in a leafy area right next to the Song Festival Grounds fits squarely in the modern, international category. Rooms have satellite TV and heated bathroom tiles, and some have balconies. Arrange your free morning sauna ahead of time with reception. Take buses 19, 35, 44 or 55 from the centre to the Oru stop. Breakfast included in the price. Q51 rooms (singles 1400kr, doubles 1600 - 2034kr, suites 2500kr, apartments 3130kr). Extra bed 350kr, pets 200kr. HR6ULGKDW hhh Susi I-6, Peterburi tee 48, tel. 630 32 00/630 33 00, fax Tähetorni Tähetorni 16, tel. 677 91 00/677 91 10, fax Hotel Skåne B-1, Kopli 2c, tel. 667 83 00, fax 667 630 08 10, cityhotel@tallink.ee, hotels.tallink.com. The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling, mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic restaurant to candies on the pillows. Rooms are done up in a bright, sharp, contemporary style, with the higher priced ‘de Luxe’ doubles providing a lot more space. Q332 rooms (singles 1080 - 2457kr, doubles, family rooms 1471 - 3302kr, suites 1941 - 4710kr). Extra bed 391kr. PHRUFLGKDW hhhh Tallink City Hotel G-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. 630 08 00, fax 677 90 96, tahetorn@neti.ee, www.thotell.ee. Round towers in this brick-building give it a castle-like feel. Friendly, English-speaking service and vast, tastefully decorated rooms and baths win kudos. The location, 9km from the centre, could be a drawback - or a plus if you enjoy the quiet seclusion of pine forests. If you don’t have your own transportation, take express bus N°20 from Pärnu mnt. to Nőva stop and walk up the hill. Q38 rooms (singles 760kr, doubles 960kr, 3 suites 1390kr, apartments 2690kr). Extra bed 210kr, pets 290kr, breakfast 95kr, inner yard parking 60kr. PHR6UILGKDW hhh Oru G-5, Narva mnt. 120b, tel. 603 33 00/603 33 02, fax Uniquestay G/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. 660 07 00/660 07 01, fax 661 61 76, reception@uniquestay.com, www. uniquestay.com. A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, Uniquestay offers well-outfitted rooms, or ‘chill-outzones’ as they’re called here. Standard rooms come with desktop computer terminals, while the larger ‘Zen’ rooms offer perks like NASA-designed gravity-free chairs and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child. Q77 rooms (singles 1095 - 1800kr, doubles 1200 - 2000kr, triples 1500 - 2500kr, suites 1600 - 2500kr). Extra bed 315kr, pets 315kr. PHR6ULGKDW hhh 26 01, sales@ylemistehotel.ee, www.ylemistehotel.ee. This brilliantly modern hotel next to Tallinn’s quiet airport has so many services you might not want to leave. Aside from the fitness centre, two saunas, European-style restaurant and conference rooms, there’s a comfortable night bar for guests. Rooms on upper floors have a magnificent view of the lake. Despite the airport-side location, it’s a fairly convenient place to stay, since buses leave from the front of the hotel and bring you into town in about 10 minutes. Q128 rooms (singles 1500 - 1750kr, doubles 1750 - 2050kr, suites 2600 - 5300kr). Extra bed 390kr. PHRUIFLGKDW hhhh Tatari 53 I-2, Tatari 53, tel. 640 51 50, fax 640 51 51, info@tatari53.ee, www.tatari53.ee. Quiet, modern, and close to the centre, Tatari 53 is perfect for travellers who just want a new, fully-outfitted room, but don’t need loads of frilly décor or big-hotel-style services. However, they do offer wireless internet connections and you can book one of their allergy-free rooms. Look for the big orange sign behind the building. Despite the address, it’s easiest to find the hotel behind Pärnu mnt. 69. Q36 rooms (singles 960kr, doubles 1200kr). Extra bed 300kr, pets 100kr. 6ULGW Uniquestay Mihkli H-2, Endla 23, tel. 666 48 00/666 48 01, fax 666 48 88, mihkli@uniquestay.com, www. uniquestay.com. Taken over by the Uniquestay group in 2006, the five-storey Mihkli is now fully renovated. All rooms offer flat-screen, internet-connected computers and coffee/ tea-making facilities, and the 12 ‘Zen’ rooms have Jacuzzis. Check out the smart lobby café with its lunch specials. Q85 rooms (singles 1095 - 1800kr, doubles 1200 - 2000kr, triples 1500 - 2500kr, suites 1600 - 2500kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 300kr. PHR6UFLGKDW hhh Poska Villa G-4, Poska 15, tel. 601 36 01, fax 601 37 Ülemiste I-5, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. 603 26 00, fax 603 54, poskavilla@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/poskavilla. This turn-of-the-century villa located on the edge of the beautiful Kadriorg park offers up a chance for some peace and quiet. The rooms are on the small side but very comfortable and certainly full of colour. Home-made breakfast is served by friendly staff and the parking, unlike elsewhere in Tallinn, is free. Q8 rooms (singles 650kr, doubles 760 - 980kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 250kr. PH6LGW 667 88 00, revalinn.tallinn.reception@revalinn.com, www.revalinn.com. The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying out the hotel’s famed soup buffet. Q163 rooms (doubles 610 - 1235kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 203kr. HR6ULGKW hh Reval Inn Tallinn A-4, Sadama 1, tel. 667 87 00, fax Villa Hortensia C-3, Vene 6, tel. 50 46 113, fax 641 80 17, jaan.parn@mail.ee. The guesthouse in the newly refurbished Old Town ‘Master’s Courtyard’ shares its locale with a gallery, artisans’ workshops and a popular chocolate café. It mostly caters to visiting artists, but anyone with a reservation is welcome. The stylish doubles are like tiny, split-level apartments, each with its own mini-kitchen and loft bedroom, while the suite even has its own balcony. There’s no reception, so phone ahead for keys. Q6 rooms (singles 600kr, doubles 800kr, 2 suites 900 - 2000kr). Extra bed for kids 200kr. No breakfast. JGW October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 24 WHERE TO STAY Apartment rental Short-term apartment rental is a good option for anyone staying more than a few days - you can often get a beautiful, Old Town apartment for the same price you’d pay for a cramped double room in a tourist class hotel. All apartments come fully outfitted with dishes, towels, bed linen, etc. Prices are usually per apartment (not per person) and drop substantially the longer you stay. The prices we’ve listed here are for a single night and are meant for comparison purposes. Check the individual apartments’ websites for full details on their rates. 18, info@apar tment.ee, w w w.apar tment.ee. This industrious, little company offers a wide range of modern apartments, everything from studios to two-level penthouses. Most are within a 10 - 15 minute walk from Old Town, and a majority of them are clustered in the recently renovated building at Pilve 4, where a sauna and Jacuzzi are available. Plusses include internet connections, 24-hour client support and they can arrange for airport pickup too. Q 42 apartments 550 - 2030kr. Extra bed 157kr. Breakfast basket 100kr. RLGD WHERE TO STAY 25 Apartment.ee Pilve 4, tel. 504 54 44, fax 660 58 Budget Alexi Villa Sihi 49, tel. 670 00 96, fax 650 62 21, alexi@ alexi.ee, www.alexi.ee. A few squawking birds and falling pine cones are all there is to break the silence out here in the peaceful Nőmme district, 7km south of Tallinn. The house-type set-up features decent rooms and a breakfast/common room with TV. Take bus N°14 or 18 to the Haava stop. Breakfast included. Q6 rooms (singles 600kr, doubles 700kr, triples 850kr). LGDW fax 626 71 32, info@hotelg9.ee, www.hotelg9.ee. Just a five-minute walk from Old Town, this small hotel on the third floor of an office building is a good pick for location and quality. Although this establishment sometimes feels more like a hostel, the rooms are modern and spotless. Q23 rooms (singles 550 - 690kr, doubles 670 - 790kr, triples 850 - 970kr, suites 1090kr). Extra bed 180kr, breakfast 60kr. R6LGKD hotell@nepihotell.ee, www.nepihotell.ee. Hidden among the houses of the quiet Lilleküla residential district about 2km from the centre, this small but relatively modern hotel features a cheerful, wood interior and friendly service. All rooms come with TV, phone and heated bathroom floors. A computer is available for those who need to check e-mail. Take bus N°17 or 17A to the Koolimaja stop. Q10 rooms (singles 490kr, doubles 590kr, triples 690kr, quads 790kr, suites 690kr, apartments 990kr). Extra bed 100kr, pets 100kr, breakfast 50kr. R6ULGW Hotel G9 G-3, Gonsiori 9, tel. 626 71 30/626 71 31, www.alleeinfo.ee. Completed in 2002, this residential-style structure a few minute’s bus ride from the centre features a row of immaculate rooms decorated with tastefully simple wood furniture. All rooms have their own TV and shower/WC. Take trolleybus 2, 3 or 4 to the Tedre stop. Q13 rooms (singles 550kr, doubles 610kr, triples 720kr, suites 800kr, family room 800kr). Extra bed 200kr, breakfast 80kr. LGW Allee I-1, Tedre 51, tel. 651 38 11, allee@alleeinfo.ee, Nepi I-1, Nepi 10, tel. 655 16 65, fax 655 16 64, nepi- Briston Apartments D-2, Harju 7, tel. 699 96 70, info@ briston-apartments.com, www.briston-apartments.com. All Briston’s apartments are conveniently nestled in the same great, Old Town building, which has its own reception desk and parking lot. The one- and two-room apartments still sparkle from their 2005 construction, though they’re all decorated in a classy, old-fashioned style that gives them warmth. More expensive two-rooms have better views. Q 11 apartments 798 - 1768kr. Extra bed 350kr. JRL Braavo B-3, Aia 20, tel. 699 97 77, fax 641 23 17, braavo@braavo.ee, www.braavo.ee. And now for something completely different! Located in Old Town and set to open in July this bright and colourful lodging is designed with families and youth in mind. The rooms are spacious, cheerful and come at an affordable price. Don’t expect too many extras but if you’re looking for a place to rest your head in a central location this hotel will certainly do. Breakfast is included and if you fancy a swim the Kalev Spa is within spitting distance. Q27 rooms (singles 1020kr, doubles 1095kr, family room 1300kr). Extra bed 285kr. JUFLGDCW 628 22 37, info@cityguesthouse.ee, www.cityguesthouse. ee. Divided among several floors of a hefty, Old Town building, this fairly new guesthouse offers a range of budget choices from respectable singles to spacious, 5-person dorms. Rooms are sparsely furnished with plain, white walls and all but the suites have their shower/WC in the corridor. There are some creature comforts though, like in-room TVs and WiFi in some areas. Management will even arrange airport transfers for 150kr. Q29 rooms (singles 360kr, doubles 550kr, triples 600kr, quads 800kr, suites 800kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 150kr. J6GW City Guesthouse D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 628 22 36, fax OldHouse Guesthouse C-3, Uus 22, tel. 641 14 64, fax 641 16 04, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.ee. This conveniently located guesthouse features clean hall showers and a nice communal dining room with a fireplace and TV set. Guests have full use of the kitchen. Reception is open 24h. Be sure to ask about the private apartments available (see apartment rental). Q6 rooms (singles 490kr, quads 1300kr, place in dorm 250kr, twin room 690kr). Extra bed 200kr. JRIGDW Pirita Convent Guesthouse Merivälja tee 18, tel. 605 50 00, fax 605 50 06, pirita@osss.ee, www. piritaklooster.ee. Administered by the nuns of the Swedish St. Bridgettine order, this modern guesthouse in their Pirita convent naturally has a pious feel. The spacious rooms are decorated in comfortable, subdued whites, and some have windows overlooking the ancient ruins of the old St. Bridgette convent, next door. A common room, with TV and fridge, is available to guests. Q21 rooms (singles 800kr, doubles 1000kr, triples 1300kr, quads 1400kr). ULNG Dzingel Männiku tee 89, tel. 610 52 01, fax 610 52 45, hotell@dzingel.ee, www.dzingel.ee. This biggish hotel in the beautiful Nőmme district is a good budget option for anyone who doesn’t mind a bit of a commute to the centre. Renovations have brought the rooms up-to-date, and the hotel comes fully outfitted with restaurant, sauna, and respectable conference facilities - eight meeting rooms in all. Take bus N°5 to the P Kerese stop. Q280 rooms . (singles 650kr, doubles 870kr, triples 1090kr, suites 1180kr, apartments 1980kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 250kr. PH R6ULGKDW Tallinn In Your Pocket Stroomi Randla 11, tel. 630 42 00/630 44 50, fax 630 45 00, stroomi@stroomi.ee, www.stroomi.ee. Surrounded by Soviet block apartments in a shabby area 3km from the centre, Stroomi’s main advantages are price, and in summer, the nearby beach. Rooms are passable, and extras like saunas, beauty salon, restaurant and bar bring it up a notch. There’s a work station in the lobby where guests can check their e-mail. Take bus No. 40 or 48 from outside the main post office to the Randla stop. Q137 rooms (singles 500 - 550kr, doubles 700 - 950kr, suites 1400kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 150kr. Morning sauna included. HR6LGKDC hh October - November 2008 26 WHERE TO STAY 623 20 55, tel. 53 44 44 64, kullassepa@residence. ee, www.residence.ee. The fantastic Old Town location is the main selling point here - the apartments are right next to Town Hall Square! Furnishings and sizes vary, but most tend towards an old-fashioned look, and all are fully-equipped, washing machine included. A computer can also be added by arrangement, and for an extra charge, breakfast can be brought up from the restaurant downstairs. Q 8 apartments 750 - 1800kr. No breakfast. JR6ILDW WHERE TO STAY Kullassepa Residence C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel./fax NEW 27 Nancy V. Apartments H-2, Roopa 19-10, tel. 501 35 79, nancy@sleepintallinn.eu, www.sleepintallinn. eu. Built in an attractive, 1890s house within easy walking distance from Old Town, these two nicely renovated apartments come fully-loaded - the larger one even has a fireplace! The proprietor lives in the same building, assuring that all your needs are met. Apartments are rented for a minimum of 5 nights. Q 1 apartment 704kr. No breakfast. LNGW Nordlänk Network , tel. 53 002 175/ 40 547 98 98, info@nordlank.ee, www.nordlank.ee. Geared toward Scandinavian clients, or anyone else with similarly high standards, this organization offers accommodation in four newly-renovated 2 or 3-room apartments. All are centrally located (one is in Old Town), and some are furnished in period styles. Helpful services like airport pick-ups, guided tours and car rental can also be arranged. Q 16 apartments, starting at 800kr, no breakfast. NG NovoStay Apartments C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. 644 08 80, fax 644 17 80, info@novostay.com, www.novostay. com. The same folks that run the Red Group also manage these city centre guest apartments. A full 13 of them are smart studios on Jőe tänav, each with a kitchen corner. Others are larger one- and two/bedroom affairs, with full kitchens. Contact them through their office at the above address. Free airport pick-ups and drop-offs. Q 17 apartments from 940kr. Extra bed 390kr. Breakfast not included, in some apartments can be arranged. PRIGDW vitelium@yahoo.co.uk, www.vitelium.ee. These large and elegant luxury apartments are only a few minutes walk from Town Hall Square but just far enough away to provide the right amount of peace and quiet. Each suite is comfortable and stylish blending new design aesthetics with old world details. Every apartment comes fully furnished with a kitchen, flat screen TV, washing machine and WIFI. We quite liked the antique-quirkiness of the upper floor apartments best, however, because of the climb they are probably best left for those without a pacemaker. Q (8 apartments 1260 - 2623kr). Breakfast not included. PTJW Pikk 49 Residence B-3, Pikk 49, tel. 53 05 44 54, Rasastra Apartments C-4, Mere pst. 4, tel./fax 661 62 91, rasastra@online.ee, www.bedbreakfast.ee. The same people who arrange bed and breakfast-style homestays also offer several centrally located apartments which can be rented anywhere from a few days to six months. All apartments are fully equipped with kitchens and TVs. Q 7 apartments 800-2500kr. LNG RED Group Apartments C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. 644 08 80, fax 644 17 80, info@redgroup.ee, www.redgroup.ee. The Red Group’s apartments are all fully renovated and mostly in Old Town, making this option a good choice for location, quality and price. Interiors have a warm look, and the staff are always ready to help guests out with information and arrange other services like airport pick-ups and drop-offs. Breakfast isn’t included in the price, but an Old Town café is never far. Available for medium and long-term rentals also. Q 17 apartments from 940kr. Extra bed 390kr. PJRIGDW Romeo Family Apartments D-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, 4th floor, apt 38, code 38, tel. 644 42 55, fax 660 95 88, info@romeofamily.ee, booking@romeofamily.ee, www. romeofamily.ee. This family run establishment offers the same level of quality and personalised service as many of the luxury hotels in town. Apart from very convenient (mostly Old Town) locations, each of these 1-4 room apartments has fully-outfitted kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Some have internet connections. Most apartments are located in the same building. If you’d rather just have a room, these are available as well. Q Rooms from 600kr. Apartments from 700kr. Extra bed 250kr. Breakfast at apartments 75kr. JRLGW tel. 610 87 80/524 80 99, fax 610 87 90, erel@erel. ee, www.erel.ee. This large, highly experienced firm manages serviced apartments concentrated in three Old Town buildings, including one on Town Hall Square and another in a marvellously restored medieval house on Rataskaevu. Furnishing in these 2 - 8-person apartments is mainly Scandinavian and always tasteful. Guests can stay anywhere from one day to one year, but rates are better the longer the contract. The company will even pick you up at the airport. Prior booking by credit card is required. Q 33 apartments: standard class 1080 - 2200kr, business class 1500 - 3700kr. Extra bed 400kr. No breakfast. JR6GDW Erel Apartments & Residences H-3, Tartu mnt. 14, Sakala Residence E-3, Sakala 16, tel. 610 87 80/524 Gorent Apartments G-3, Jõe 7, tel. 666 11 68, fax 666 11 69, info@gorent.ee, www.gorent.ee. This rental company is offering several apartments in Old Town as well as a few in another exciting location - overlooking Pirita Beach! Styles differ, but all come with the latest fixtures and appliances. Airport pick-up is included in the price, and for an extra 156kr/night, they’ll leave breakfast in your fridge. Q 12 apartments 860 - 3150kr. JR6UGDW OldHouse Apartments C-3, Uus 22, tel. 641 14 64, fax 641 16 04, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.ee. In addition to its guesthouse, OldHouse also offers a few two-, three-, four- and 6-person apartments ranging from small affairs with antique furniture to a modern split-level complete with living room and fireplace. All are located near the guesthouse itself, with its hard-to-beat Old Town location. Q 16 apartments 1100 - 3900kr. Extra bed 200kr. JILDW 80 99, fax 610 87 90, info@sakalaresidence.ee, www. sakalaresidence.ee. A grand, white edifice just outside Old Town is home to the state-of-the art apartments that make up Sakala Residence. Each of the spacious 2- 3- or 4-room apartments - some with saunas and balconies - comes with a kitchen and all the accoutrements. Ask for a 5th-floor room with a sea view. Management provide complimentary city transfer when you arrive. Q 11 apartments: standard class 1190 - 2200kr, business class 2300-3700kr. Extra bed 400. No breakfast. R6LGDW Sleep smarts Given the increasingly high standards of service in Tallinn’s hospitality industry, it’s very likely that your hotel receptionist speaks better English than you do. Still, your attempts to pronounce these Estonain phrases will no doubt amuse him or her to no end. Hotel Room Breakfast Double Bed Parking lot hotell numbrituba hommikusöök kahene voodi parkla 71 14, info@ites.ee, www.ites.ee. Geared towards travellers staying from one night to several months, this collection of apartments around the Old Town and centre offers fully equipped apartments, most with satellite TV and internet access. Some even have saunas, so ask when you reserve. Car rental service also available. Q 15 apartments from 800kr. JRD Ites Apartments D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 06 37/56 21 www.inyourpocket.com Tallinn In Your Pocket Do you have a single room/double room? Kas Teil on üheseid/kaheseid tubasid? Can I pay by credit card? Kas ma saan krediitkaardiga maksta? What time do you serve breakfast? Mis kell on hommikusöök? Do you speak English? Kas Te räägite inglise keelt? October - November 2008 28 WHERE TO STAY Hostels The Estonian Youth Hostel Association’s website is www.hostels.ee. fax 620 22 76, info@academichostel.com, www.academichostel.com. A large hostel 5km from the city centre situated on the Tallinn Technical University campus grounds, offering brand new rooms for one or two persons (kitchen, dining room and bathroom shared between every two) and all surrounded by a quiet and peaceful forest. Perks include free parking, laundry facilities and internet connections in some rooms. Take trolleybus N°3 from Vabaduse väljak to the Keemia stop. Q108 rooms (doubles 525kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 100kr, breakfast 45kr. R6W citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee. Though better known for its bike tours, City Bike also runs a tiny hostel in Old Town that’s suitable for backpacker types who aren’t fussed about tidiness. There’s a guest kitchen and plenty of bike parking. Q3 rooms (singles 250 - 300kr, doubles 500 - 600kr, quads 800 - 1000kr). Extra bed 150kr. No Breakfast. JRGW WHERE TO STAY Threadbare lodgings Dorell G-4, Karu 39, tel. 666 43 33, fax 666 43 34, info@dorell.ee, www.dorell.ee. A quiet, friendly hotel in a blockhouse not far from the centre or the harbour. The higher priced rooms have their own shower and WC, while others share with a few neighbours. All rooms have TV and phone. Enter through a courtyard off Narva mnt. Q31 rooms (singles 550 - 700kr, doubles 600 800kr, suits 1500kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 100 - 200kr. Breakfast included. LH6DW 29 Rooms in private homes Rasastra Bed & Breakfast C-4, Mere pst. 4, tel./ fax 661 62 91, rasastra@online.ee, www.bedbreakfast.ee. Do you want to live like real, live Estonians? Not actually a Bed and Breakfast, Rasastra is an agency that sets up accommodation in private homes in Tallinn, Tartu, Pärnu and other cities throughout the Baltics. Guests who want the use of a kitchen should request it when reserving. Q30 rooms (singles 325kr, doubles 550kr, triples 700kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 100kr, breakfast 50kr. 6LNG Academic Hostel Akadeemia tee 11, tel. 620 22 75, NEW City Bike Hostel B-3, Uus 33, tel. 511 18 19, hostel@ Euphoria E-2, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. 58 37 36 02, info@ traveller.ee, www.hostelworld.com. This hostel-esque happening, brought to you by the good folks over at the ‘Hostel With No Name’, is one of the larger places in town. It’s kind of a unique concept that centres around four apartments on different floors and a large common room where everyone can hang out, play the guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit moves you, maybe even paint your own mural on the wall. Each floor has its own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath! Light breakfast included. Q Prices 220 - 550kr/person. RLEW Eurohostel C-2, Nunne 2, tel./fax 644 77 88, info@ eurohostel.ee, www.eurohostel.ee. Once you get past the weird smell on th