Featuring the kind of staff you usually find in a five-star hotel, Der Löwenbräu, smack bang in the middle of tourist hell, is a delight. Choose to eat among wooden walls covered in paintings and old photographs of Cologne or outside by the river if the weather’s warm enough. The menu features the legendary Nuremberg sausage alongside the usual sauerkraut, pork knuckle, lamb and fish. Forgetting the fact that they pander passing tour groups with a menu of dreary Italian dishes, this place knocks the spots off its competitors.