A mixture of modern and classic cuisine, Le Bousquerey feels just like the Grande Nation in miniature. It’s a bit of a squeeze round the tiny square tables but the speciality fish is as fresh as it gets this far inland and Normandy-born Pierre Reyt cooks with only the finest ingredients. Try his salad with warm goat’s cheese or the irresistible Sole Meuniere followed by roasted pears dunked in champagne Sabayard. If tables are all occupied, try your luck next door at La Bretagne.

(€17-21)