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Lakes intro

Bavaria is blessed with a slew of natural lakes which is just as well, considering the numbers of bodies that descend on them when temperatures nudge up towards 30 degrees. The nearest lakes to the city are situated in a region called the Fünfseenland, Five Lakes Country. This is South Germany’s answer to the England’s Lake District but without all the rain and blustery wind. If you count all the small lakes, there are actually a whole lot more, but the only ones which you can reach by S-Bahn from Munich are the Ammersee and Starnberger See.

The Starnberger See, 21km long and 5km wide, is the second largest lake in Bavaria (Chiemsee is bigger but much further from Munich). S-Bahn S6 from Munich stops at Starnberg and end-of-line Tutzing. The travel time to trippy little Starnberg is about 40 minutes.

Second home to many moneyed Münchners, the lake’s namesake town’s a bit of a disappointment if you’re expecting some quaint place. Luckily there are plenty of ferries to whisk you quickly away – the water is literally on the other side of the train tracks. Just look out for signs to the Weiß-Blaue Flotte boats which ply the lake (tel. 08652 96 360, www.bayerische-seenschifffahrt.de). A complete round trip stopping at all the little villages en route takes around three hours, and there are various theme tours and a special brunch excursion on Sundays. Commentaries are sadly not in English, but if you understand a bit of German, you might enjoy the historical tour, which goes on the trail of King Ludwig II.

Best known for his fairytale castles, Bavaria’s madcap monarch Ludwig II had a castle at nearby Berg and a soft spot for the area. That is until he met his maker here in 1886 under very suspicious circumstances. Ludwig and his physician, Doctor Gudden, were found floating in knee-deep water just three days after he was declared legally insane. Officially he drowned, which is a bit absurd considering Lake Sternberg is about as rough as a glass of lemonade. Did he commit suicide or was he helped? Prince Luitpold, his successor, certainly had good reason to see him go, but to this day the incident remains cloaked in mystery. Ludwig’s last residence, Schloß Berg, is still owned by Bavaria’s former rulers, the house of Wittelsbach. Although you can’t go inside, you can wander through the former grounds of the castle, which have been turned into a public park.

Water temperatures average between 20 and 24 degrees and there are plenty places to swim. Some spots even have changing cabins and showers (look out for the Strandbad sign) although you’ll have to pay for these facilities. A good many beaches have huts which rent sailing, rowing and paddle boats from around €5 an hour - worth it just to escape the crowds along the shore. And whilst a village called Pöcking-Possenhofen might make grandmother blush, there’s some great water-skiing to be had there.

Another great way to tour the lake is from a bicycle saddle. See how much of the 50km circular track round the lake you can cover before hopping onto the ferry back to Starnberg. A nice stretch, for instance, is the 20km path to the Museum of Fantasy at Bernried. You can rent cycles from friendly Frau Sterzenbach (Bike it, Maximilianstr. 4, tel. 08151 74 64 30; €15/day, €10 half-day) close to the station at Starnberg.

If Starnberger See is the royal lake, neighbouring Ammersee is its rustic counterpart. It’s just 45 minutes by S-Bahn S5 from Munich to Herrsching, a popular little turn-of-the-century spa town. Unlike Starnberg, Herrsching has loads of culturally interesting places and even if you visit nothing else, pop into the Kurparkschlössl, a fairy-tale villa set in a spa park.

A good place for swimming at Ammersee is the Freizeitgelände (leisure grounds) just outside Utting. There’s a café, a gorgeous beer garden with both beautiful brew and view and a sailing school which hires rather tatty but perfectly sailable boats (Segelschule Ernst, tel. 0880 67661, €10/hour). Like its big brother, the 47km2 lake is great for boarding a scheduled ship (same contact details as Starnbergersee) and just chugging along from stop to stop. The round-trip on the Diessen, an old-fashioned paddle steamer, takes about three hours. Alternatively, if you’ve reason to celebrate big time, you can charter one of the old-timer ships.

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Munich | Sightseeing | Bavaria's lakes

If you’re visiting the Starnberger See, why not combine a swim and sunbathe with a bit of culture? Nestled right behind by the Bernried ferry stop is the Museum of Fantasy.
Enchanted pools, pagodas and parklands greet visitors on entering the gates. Resembling a sea-vessel-cum-Olympic-village, it must surely be one of the most unlikely-looking museums far and wide. Designed by Günther Behnisch, whose firm also built Munich’s Olympic Stadium, the controversial glass and steel eye-opener is home to the Buchheim Art Collection.  The exhibition is the brainchild of painter and novelist Lothar Günther Buchheim, best known as author of Das Boot. Centred on the work of expressionists such as Kirchner, Heckel and Pechstein, exhibits are juxtaposed with all sorts of inspirational art forms ranging from Bavarian “folkart” to ethnic objects from Africa and the South Sea Islands.
The key to appreciating this exhibition is an understanding of the mind and vision of the artist Buchheim himself. The zany subject matter of his paintings and photographs is 100% visual so don’t expect to find many museum placards giving a brow-beating low-down on each exhibit. Buchheim describes himself as an “art demonstrator with a missionary fervor”. Be prepared to abandon your traditional perceptions of art and embrace this exhibition with all your senses. You can almost smell some of the paintings and cultic artifacts, which range from Japanese woodcuts, Chinese ink drawings, Indian shadow puppets, porcelain, ceramics, textiles, jewelry to a collection of 3,000 paperweights.
At the heart of the museum is a collection of paintings, watercolours, drawings and prints of a group of expressionists known as Die Brücke (The Bridge). The stark and highly emotional art - way ahead of its time - was deemed a protest against the official art of the Wilhelmine era. Shocking to many traditionalists of the time, this art form marks the beginning of Modernism in Germany. A current attraction in this section is the Kriegsmappe (War file), a collection of black-and-white paintings by the Otto Dix.
This is also a museum of humour though. Look out for a double-spouted teapot inscribed Tea for two and the almost larger-than-life models of three men and a dog. If proof were needed that some dogs really do resemble their owners then here it is!
No visit to this unconventional museum would be complete without stepping out onto the shipdeck-like observation platform standing twelve meters over the lake. On a clear day you can see across to the Alps. To get to the Museum of Fantasy, take S-Bahn S6 to Starnberg, and then a boat to Bernried. The 75-minute ferry trip leaves Starnberg at 08:35 and 10:35, and returns at 14:58 and 16:38. Alternatively, take the Deutsche Bahn train to Bernried and follow the footpath to the museum (a 20 minute walk). [...]



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Bernried

tel. (+49)(0)89 8158 99 700

Open 10:00-17:00,
Sat 10:00-18:00,
Sun 10:00-18:00.

Metro station:

Starnberg