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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps TALLINN October - November 2008 Tallinn wine culture The best places in the city to enjoy your favorite glass of grape N°62 - 35kr / €2.25 www.inyourpocket.com CONTENTS 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving Getting here is half the fun 5 6 10 12 16 The Basics Helpful things everyone should know History Learn it, or you’re doomed to repeat it Culture & Events Concerts, art galleries, cinema and more Ahhh... all the elements are in place. More on p.64 Where to stay A bed for every budget Wine Culture Wine, women and Tallinn 64 Dining & Nightlife Where to eat From pigeons to sushi Cafés The hottest places in the caffeine scene Nightlife Where to pick up or get picked up 30 53 56 Sightseeing Old Town The medieval centre in a nutshell Sightseeing tours By bus, by bike or on foot Museums Covering city history, bombs and marzipan 66 68 70 Transport & Communication Getting around Navigating Tallinn and travelling onward Mail & Phones Phone home, log on, or send a postcard 74 81 82 Shopping Cool souvenirs and fashion purchases Directory Business Lifestyle Health Officials 88 90 91 92 93 95 96 98 99 October - November 2008 Maps & index Street register Old Town map City map Country map Index Fancy a stroll on these pretty leaves ? 4 FOREWORD Welcome to Tallinn, “the City of Good…” hmmm – well, we’re sure it’s the city of good something. Unlike Tartu and Narva and a host of other Estonian cities, Tallinn still hasn’t found its slogan yet. Actually Tallinn is the city of a great number of good things – good food, good architecture, good-looking men and women, good clubs, good history and, as of recently, good fashion and good wine. We would even go so far as to say all of the above items are great in Tallinn. But what is that one thing that defines Tallinn? No matter what that one thing is, we’re certain you’ll find something fascinating about this ancient city. From the Hanseatic merchant houses to the many green spaces, to the fortifications and underground tunnels, the city formerly known as Reval was and is a thriving European city at the cross-roads between East and West. So grab a friend, stick a memory card in your camera, put Tallinn in your pocket and hit the cobblestones of this beautiful, medieval city and perhaps along the way you could think of that one thing that embodies the spirit of Tallinn. We’d love to hear what you think it might be. You can send us your ideas to tallinn@inyourpocket.com. With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit newsstands before Christmas. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is our new, much improved website, coming soon to public beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket. com, and let us know what you think via email: editor@inyourpocket.com is our address. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OÜ Linnajuht 1997-2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). ARRIVING Europe In Your Pocket As European capitals go, Tallinn is a remarkably easy-access city. The passenger port and train station are both within shouting distance of the Old Town/centre, while the airport and bus station are a quick, cheap 10 - 15 minute taxi ride away. 5 By bus Buses arrive at the bus station (autobussijaam), (H-4), just off the main highway from Tartu, but Eurolines passengers coming in from Riga or Vilnius should strongly consider hopping off at the much more central Viru väljak stop (ask other passengers where), rather than continuing on to the bus station itself. Once at the station, you’ll find left luggage in the basement. The cash-only currency exchange takes all major currencies, including Russian roubles, but gives appallingly bad rates. The ATM by the main entrance is probably a better bet. Getting to town The city centre is just 1km away, down Juhkentali tänav from behind the station. Buses N°17A, 23 and 23A leave directly from the coach area near platform 1, heading to Vabaduse väljak (4th stop) in the centre, while trams N°2 and 4 run from nearby Tartu maantee to Viru väljak (4th stop), also in the centre. A taxi to Old Town should cost about 90kr. By ship Most ferries and catamarans arrive at the Passenger Port (reisisadam), terminals A, B and C. Left Luggage and a helpful tourist information booth can be found in the main hall of terminal A. Exchange offices are plentiful but not always economical. ATMs are just as easy to find. Terminal D, located just across the small neck of water, has similar services, but no tourist information. Lindaline’s boats arrive at the neighbouring Linnahall Speedboat Harbour, where a currency exchange booth is open whenever boats are arriving. Rates here are decent. Getting to town You can just head for the spires of Old Town on foot, but a taxi from the Passenger Port or the Linnahall should cover the short ride to town for 60-70kr. By car Crossing the border from Latvia is fairly hassle-free. Now that the Baltics are in the EU queues move very swiftly. Getting over the border from Russia will take quite a bit longer. In both cases, be sure to bring your car’s registration papers and a valid insurance policy, such as the international green card. You can also buy insurance right at the border station. For fares and regulations on bringing a car by ship from Finland or Sweden, contact the ferry companies in the ‘Getting around’ section of this guide. Cover story The picture featured on the cover of this issue of T allinn In Your Pocket shows a tiny little window on Laboratooriumi street. The window is one of several very tiny lookouts that can be found at the UkranianGreek Catholic church. The photo was taken by our very own Küllike Johannson Singer. By plane Tallinn’s airport may be a super-modern affair, but it’s so small you’re never in danger of getting lost. Once past the controls, you’ll find ATMs and currency exchange in the centre of the hall; toilets and car rental offices are downstairs. Getting to town A taxi from the airport should cost roughly 125kr. The more frugal can take bus N°2, which leaves every 20 - 30 minutes from in front of the arrivals hall, to the centre of town, i.e. the A. Laikmaa stop next to the Viru Hotel/shopping centre. A ticket from the driver costs 20kr, and the ride takes nine minutes. By train Arriving by train at Tallinn’s Balti Jaam (B-1) puts you just a couple hundred metres from the walls of Old Town. The station itself has just undergone renovation that finally brings it into the modern age, adding a posh restaurant and even a day spa, in case you need to unwind after your journey. Left luggage is in the back of the main hall, just off the breezeway that leads to the platforms. The exchange booth (across from left luggage) offers decent rates on all Scandinavian, Baltic and Russian currencies. ATMs are just next to the front doors. Getting to town Just cross the street at the underpass and walk up Nunne tänav into Old Town, or take trams N°1 or 2 from behind the station three stops to the Mere pst. stop. Avoid the taxis that wait here. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Tallinn In Your Pocket Vana-Viru 4, Tallinn 10111 Estonia tel./fax +372 644 64 70 advertising tel. +372 631 33 50 tallinn@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1406-2690 ©OÜ Linnajuht Printed by Reusner, Tallinn Published six times per year 10,000 - 13,000 copies Editorial Editor Nat A. Singer Contributor Steve Roman Researcher Helle Pohl-Raidla Layout & Design Nat A. Singer, Küllike Johannson Singer Photography Küllike Johannson Singer, Nat A. Singer Using taxis in Tallinn Tallinn’s taxis are notorious for overcharging - even the city’s own mayor has gotten ripped off. Drivers either set high rates or fix their meters to run at lightning speeds. There’s no sure-fire way to avoid the cheats, but there are precautions you can take. Get to know the average rates, and check the prices listed on the car’s right rear door. These consist of a base fare which is usually 30 - 45kr, and a per-kilometer charge that’s normally 7 - 10kr/km. Another good idea is to order a taxi by phone from an actual taxi company, rather than taking your chances getting one off the street. Turn to the ‘Getting around’ section of this guide for phone numbers and fare details. Barring that, you can ask the driver for an estimate of how much the ride will be beforehand. To report a cheat, call the 24-hour hotline, tel. 1345. Getting cash You should have no problems filling your wallet in Tallinn - cash machines (ATMs) are never hard to find. Big banks are usually your best bet for exchanging currency. At night and on weekends, however, decent exchanges are more elusive. Tavid at Aia 5 has good rates and also runs an all-night exchange window that will do in a pinch. Their night rates aren’t as good as what they are during the daytime. Beware of bright blue and yellow Monex exchanges around town. These have convenient locations and working hours, but generally give unfavourable rates and even charge a 50-100kr commission on each transaction. Sales & Circulation General /Ad Manager Küllike Johannson Singer Advertising representative Kätlin Kuus Sales & Circulation Marek Pärn Publisher OÜ Linnajuht Cover Photo: Küllike Johannson Singer © 2008 Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 6 BASICS National holidays January 1 New Year’s Day February 24 Independence Day (1918) March 21 Good Friday March 23 Easter Sunday May 1 May Day June 23 Victory Day (1919 Battle of Võnnu - Cēsis) June 24 St. John’s Day (Midsummer) August 20 Day of Restoration of Independence (1991) December 24 Christmas Eve December 25 Christmas Day December 26 Boxing Day BASICS Basic data Tallinn Population: 402,586 Density: 2,600 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 54%, Russians 37%, Ukrainians 4%, Belarusians 2%, Others 3% 7 Tourist information points Tourist Information Centre in Old Town C-2, Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, tel. 645 77 77, fax 645 77 78, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism.tallinn.ee. The city's official tourist information point is the best equipped to answer any question. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Viru väljak 4, tel. 610 15 57/610 15 58, fax 610 15 59, turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee, www.tourism.tallinn. ee. A scaled-down version of the above, this one stays open later. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Estonia Borders Until 1998 Estonia stood staunchly by the conviction that its border with Russia was set by the Tartu Peace Treaty of 1920. In reality, however, border controls have been maintained along the line unilaterally set by Russia in 1991. Estonia and Russia initialled a border agreement on March 5, 1998, ceding the disputed territory to Russia. Now that Estonia belongs to the European Union, its border with Russia is also the border between the EU and Russia. Shengen Border zone - As of December 21st 2007, Estonia now belongs to the Schengen visa area, which includes: Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain and Sweden. What does this mean exactly? Well, it means that if you are travelling to Estonia from within the Schengen border control-free area, you will not be required to show any documentation when you arrive in Estonia, whether it be by ship, plane or by car, in fact you will not have to go through customs at all. Of course if you arrive in Estonia from outside the Schengen zone you will still be required to show your passport or EU identity card if applicable. For more information on Shengen and how it might apply to you, log on to the Estonian Foreign Ministry’s website at www.vm.ee/eng. Population: 1,342,409 Density: 30 inhabitants/km2 Ethnic composition: Estonians 68.6%, Russians 25.6%, Ukrainians 2.1%, Byelorussians 1.2%, Finns 0.8%, Others 1.6% Territory: 45,227km2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia (and the Baltics) is Suur Munamägi (318m) in Võru County Islands: 1,521. The three largest are Saaremaa 2,673km2, Hiiumaa 1,023km2, and Muhu 206km2 Lakes: Lake Peipsi, on the Russian border, covers an area of 3,555km2, of which 1,529km2 is in Estonia. It also holds the title as the 4th largest lake in Europe. Rivers: Estonia’s longest rivers are the Pärnu 144km, Kasari 112km, and Emajõgi 101km Other cities: Tartu 101,000, Narva 67,000, KohtlaJärve 48,000, Pärnu 46,000 Local time: Estonia is in the Eastern European Time Zone (GMT+2hrs). Summer time (GMT+3hrs) is in effect from the last Sunday of March until the last Sunday of October. Tourist Information Centre in Viru Keskus C-4, Visas Now that Estonia is in the European Union, lucky citizens can conveniently enter Estonia with just a national ID card. All others need valid passports. You can enter Estonia visafree and stay 90 days if you’re a citizen of any EU country, Norway, Iceland, Switzerland, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Argentina, South Korea and a number of other countries listed on the website below. All others, including South Africans, Russians, Byelorussians and Ukrainians do need a visa to come to Estonia. South Africans may enter Estonia if they hold a visa for Latvia or Lithuania. Anyone staying in Estonia for more than 90 days (180 days for UK citizens) needs either residents permit or a visa, though there are certain very specific exceptions for EU citizens. For all the details, contact the consular department of the Foreign Ministry, tel. 631 74 40, or check their website, www.vm.ee, which has more information than you’ll ever need. Customs European alcoholics rejoice! When you leave Estonia headed to another EU country, you can take out as much booze as you can carry (or convince inspectors is for your personal use). Coming into Estonia from another EU country, each individual aged 18 and over may carry in duty-free 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer and 10 litres of hard alcohol (over 21%alc/vol), 800 cigarettes, 400 cigarillos, 200 cigars and 1kg of pure tobacco. When leaving, beware of stricter tobacco restrictions if you’re headed to the UK, Sweden or Finland. Relatively unlucky travellers from non-EU countries can carry in a measly 2 litres of wine (not exceeding €175EUR in combined value), 2 litres of beverages up to 21%alc/vol and 1 litre of hard alcohol; 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250g pure tobacco. How much booze and smokes you can take home depends on your own country’s restrictions. For more information, contact the Customs Department, Narva mnt. 9j, tel. 696 74 36/696 74 35, info@ customs.ee, www.emta.ee. Money Urgent care The Tallinn First Aid hotline tel. 697 11 45, can provide treatment advice in English, and if need be, direct you to the appropriate hospital. If you need cough syrup at 03:00, try the round-the-clock Tõnismäe pharmacy (see pharmacies). For dramatic situations that require an ambulance, call tel. 112. Emergency operators speak English. The Estonian kroon (rhymes with ‘tone') is pegged to the Euro at €1 to 15.65kr. Keep in mind that Euros are not legal currency here yet since Estonia won't join the common currency for several years to come. Paper bills come in denominations of 2, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500kr. ATMs operating on international systems are ever present. Credit cards are easy to use in Tallinn - major hotels, most restaurants and a pretty much all downtown shops accept Visa, Mastercard Emergency telephone 112 Police telephone 110 Tallinn In Your Pocket Estonia’s telephone code is +372 October - November 2008 8 BASICS Public toilets Study your geometry to avoid an embarrassing situation: A triangle pointing down signifies the men’s room (M or Meeste), while the triangle pointing up is the women’s room (N or Naiste). For vistors with pressing needs, public toilets are few and far between. Some can be found at the Viru Gate on Valli (C-3) and in the underground crossing at (D-2), Vabaduse väljak. There is also a Swedishbuilt automatic WC on Toompea hill (C-1) nicknamed locally the ‘million-crown toilet’ due to the public outcry at its construction bill. It can be found next to the Nevski Cathedral. Those with disabilities can use the one in the foyer of the Troika restaurant on Town hall Square (C-2). BASICS Key phrases Hello Goodbye Please Thank you Excuse me Yes No Zero One Two Three Four Five Six Seven Eight Nine Ten Hundred Thousand Push (on a door) Pull (on a door) Where is... ? How much does ... cost? I would like... Bon appetit! One beer, please! Cheers! What’s your name? You have beautiful eyes. Will you marry me? Tere Head aega Palun Aitäh Vabandust Jah Ei Null Üks Kaks Kolm Neli Viis Kuus Seitse Kaheksa Üheksa Kümme Sada Tuhat Lükka Tõmba Kus asub...? Kui palju maksab... Ma sooviksin... Head isu! Palun üks õlu! Terviseks! Mis sinu nimi on? Sul on ilusad silmad. Kas sa abielluks minuga? 9 Religion Some locals will tell you that Estonians are all tree-worshiping pagans at heart, but the truth is that this isn’t a very religious country at all. There is no state religion, and according to the 2000 census, only 31.8% of the population claims any religious affiliation. Of those that do, about 180,000 are Lutheran and 170,000 Russian Orthodox. Language Confused? Join the crowd. Estonian is completely unrelated to Russian, Latvian, Swedish, German or any other Indo-European tongue. Along with Finnish and Hungarian, Estonian belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages, thought to have originated somewhere beyond the Urals thousands of years ago. Luckily, the younger generation and those in the tourist industry speak English. You can find some of the more essential words and phrases on here. www.inyourpocket.com Estonianisms Noh... Well.../Um... This sounds like ‘No’, but actually just means the speaker is temporarily tongue-tied On ju? Eks ju? Right? Isn’t it? Two interjections that punctuate Estonian speech Head isu! Bon appetit! ...or ‘Good Appetite’, as you will sometimes hear Jätku leiba! May there be enough bread! begins a meal. The polite answer is... Jätku tarvis. It’s needed. Jõudu tööle! Power to your work! Expression of goodwill, used when you come upon someone hard at work Jõudu tarvis Power needed The formulaic answer Tervist! Lit. Health! Ole tubli! Gesundheit!/Bless you! Take care, be good! In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 46 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com. Kuidas käsi käib? How are you? Lit. How does the hand go? Ikka käib Still goin’ Typically laconic Estonian reply In Your Pocket Europe’s City Guide inyourpocket.com E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 10 HISTORY Estonia through the ages 3,000BC Finno-Ugric tribes arrive from the east and settle along the north Baltic coast, mixing with Neolithic tribes. HISTORY Soviet occupation In the first years of the renewed Soviet regime, 36,000 Estonians are arrested and accused of aiding the Nazis. At the same time 30,000 - 35,000 people flee to the woods to resist the regime as Forest Brothers. In the years following, Estonia endures political repression and isolation, while Estonians who had fled to the West try to keep their culture alive in exile. During the post-Stalin period, life in Estonia takes on a bureaucratic routine similar to that found elsewhere in the USSR. Over the coming decades, hundreds of thousands of ethnic Russians are sent to live in the Estonian territory. In the 1970s and 80s, Finnish TV broadcasts give Tallinn residents a glimpse of life in the West. 11 A new republic 1992 After prices rose by 629% in 1991, the government introduces ration coupons. June 20 The Estonian kroon becomes the first national currency introduced in the former Soviet Union. 1st Century Roman historian Tacitus writes of a local tribe called Aestii. 1994 12th Century In 1154, Arab cartographer al-Idrisi marks Tallinn on his map as Koluvan, describing it as a seasonal stronghold - the first mention of the city in historic records. In 1202 the Pope calls for a crusade against the pagans around the Baltic Sea. Bishop Albert founds the Order of the Knights of the Sword. This leads to four decades of bloody battles and shifting alliances among the Germans (based in Riga), Danes, Swedes, Russians, Lithuanians and local tribes. In 1219 King Voldemar II of Denmark takes the stronghold of the north Estonian Rävala people as a base for his forces (hence the name Tallinn: Taani = Danish, linn = city). German merchants settle the town, and in 1248 are granted the right to use Lübeck Law, effectively making Tallinn an autonomous entity. In the 1280s, Tallinn joins the powerful Hanseatic League of trading cities. Estonian towns become important trading links between East and West and grow in size and strength. Ethnic Estonians, however, remain serfs while German landowners reap the benefits. The bloody St George’s Night Uprising of 1343 convinces the Danish King to sell his provinces to the German Knights two years later. September 28 852 people perish when the 15,000-tonne ferry Estonia sinks en route to Stockholm. 1998 1999 March 31 EU begins accession talks with Estonia. November 13 Estonia becomes the 135th member of the World Trade Organization (WTO). 13th Century The first republic Estonia takes advantage of the chaos in Russia caused by WWI and the Bolshevik Revolution, declaring independence on February 24, 1918. But by the end of February, Germany takes the infant country by force. When Germany capitulates in November Red forces move in. The War for Independence lasts 13 months. In the Tartu Peace Treaty, signed February 2, 1920, Soviet Russia renounces claims to the territory “for all time”. In 1921 the Republic of Estonia is accepted into the League of Nations. Reforms progress quickly and social welfare laws are on a par with those in Europe. A political crisis in the mid-1930s brings the young republic to the verge of authoritarianism. President Konstantin Päts bans political parties and restricts civil rights but maintains popular support. 1956 Surviving Estonians who had been deported to Siberia are allowed to return. 1977 February 24 The blue-black-white flag rises illegally over the Vanemuine Theatre in Tartu to mark the 59th anniversary of the first Estonian Republic. 2001 October 8 Arnold Rüütel is sworn in as president. 2004 1980 July 19-August 3 Moscow Olympic Games. Tallinn’s Olympic yachting centre, Pirita and Olümpia hotels and airport terminal are built for the occasion. March 29 Estonia joins NATO. May 1 Estonia becomes an EU member as the bloc expands to encompass ten new states. 2006 2007 14th Century Road to independence 1987 What had started as a series of environmental protests quickly develops into a new National Awakening as demonstrations against the system become more open. October 9 Toomas Hendrik Ilves becomes president. April 26 - 27 Street riots, mainly involving young, ethnic Russians, break out after protests over the relocation of a Soviet Army monument from the city centre. December 21 Estonia joins Schengen. World War II On August 23, 1939, the USSR and Germany sign the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact, in which secret protocols carve Eastern Europe into spheres of influence. On June 16, 1940, the USSR accuses the Baltic states of aggression and demands the right to occupy them. ‘Elections’ take place July 14 - 15, with Soviet-approved candidates. The phoney parliament applies for admittance to the USSR, which is granted August 6. WWII continues to rage across Europe and by the end of 1941 the Nazis win Estonia from the Soviets. The German occupation lasts three years. Soviet forces begin air attacks March 15, 1942, and cause serious damage in the infamous attack of March 9, 1944. By September the Germans have fled. Estonia is declared a Republic again on September 18, but Soviet forces reach Tallinn four days later. 16th Century 1988 Estonians suffer another bout of shifting borders and imposed military service during the Livonian War (15581583). Ivan the Terrible advances claims on Estonia. Denmark and Poland enter the fray, but Sweden quickly gains control of the territory. Intermittent warfare with Poland lasts into the next century. 17th Century The Swedish period in Estonian history is marked by cultural advancement. Tartu University opens in 1632 and by the close of the century nearly every parish has a school. In 1645 Denmark cedes Saaremaa to Sweden, joining Estonia under a single force for the first time. June 10-14 Over 100,000 people a night pack the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds. The events of the summer are henceforth known as the Singing Revolution. September 11 More than 300,000 Estonians gather at the Song Grounds and hear Trivimi Velliste make the first public demand for independence. November 16 In a move known as the beginning of the end for the Soviet Union, the Supreme Soviet of the Estonian SSR passes a declaration of sovereignty. Tallinn‘s founding legend Stick around Tallinn long enough and you’re bound to hear the name Kalev bandied about. There are countless Kalev sports teams and there’s even a Kalev brand of chocolate. But just who was this Kalev person? Kalev is in fact a mythical giant from Tallinn’s distant past who is credited with founding the city. As the story goes, Kalev was sailing the seas looking for a spot to land and establish a kingdom. Eventually a prophecy led him to what is now Estonia’s capital. Upon Kalev’s death, his wife Linda was so stricken with grief that she over-did his burial mound, piling enough stones on his grave to form Toompea hill, which to this day looms over Old Town. When the contentious Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral was built on the hill at the beginning of the 20th century, a rumour was spread that Kalev’s ghost would haunt anyone who inter fered with the construction. Nobody did. Arguably an even more important figure in the Estonian tradition is Kalev’s son, Kalevipoeg. Tales of Kalevipoeg’s adventures were set down in the form of an epic poem of the same name by Friedrich Reinhold Kreutzwald and published in 1857. At the time Estonia was undergoing a literary and cultural awakening, and Kalevipoeg became both a focal point for national identity and a major step in founding an Estonian literary tradition. 1989 18th Century Tallinn, Tallinna or Reval? The evolution of the name ‘Tallinn’ is a confusing tale. For centuries, the town was more commonly known German name, Reval. The actual name Tallinn is from the Danish period (1219-1346). The Danes then referred to Tallinn as Castrum Danorum, which basically means Danish castle. Translated into Estonian it became tannin lidna. Abbreviate this and it’s easy to see how you get Tallinn. Even after the Danes left, many Estonians continued to use the name Tallinn while almost everyone else preferred Reval. It was only in 1918 after independence from Russia that Reval was totally dropped. For a while both Tallinn and Tallinna were then used. In 1925 Tallinna was declared official, but soon after Estonia changed its mind and in 1933 Tallinn became the final name for the nation’s capital city. Sweden battles Russia, Denmark and Poland in the Northern War (1700-1721), losing Estonia to Russia in 1710. During the 200 years of tsarist rule that follow, Estonia’s peasants live in the same conditions of near-slavery as the serfs of Russia. In 1739 the Bible is published in Estonian. February 24 The Estonian flag is raised over Tallinn, inciting protests and massive strikes. August 23 Two million people join hands along the 600km road between Tallinn and Vilnius to mark the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact. November 12 The Estonian Supreme Soviet nullifies Estonia’s entry into the USSR. 1990 19th Century So-called Estophiles study the local language and found consciousness-raising societies. Literacy spreads and Estonian-language periodicals appear. The second half of the century is marked by the National Awakening: the formation of a national consciousness among Estonians and an active period of scholarship and literary creation. The first song festival, held in Tartu in 1869, represents the first public demonstration of Estonian national identity. Tsar Alexander III stifles this when he comes to the throne in 1881, initiating a period of intense Russification. March 23 The Estonian Communist Party declares independence from the central party. May 8 The ESSR is officially renamed the Republic of Estonia, despite not yet having declared independence. 1991 March 3 78% of voters cast their vote for independence in a referendum. August 19 During the failed Moscow coup, additional Soviet military units are moved to Estonia from Pskov, Russia. August 20 Estonia declares independence. August 23 Lenin’s statue comes down in Tallinn. August 24 Russia recognises Estonian independence. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 12 CULTURE & EVENTS While Tallinn may not be a cultural metropolis like London or New York, people here do still like to feed their souls. The town is home to a number of theatres, an opera house, several interesting museums and galleries, and even an art-house cinema. Check these pages to see what’s coming up. An exhaustive calendar of cultural events is available at www.culture.ee CULTURE & EVENTS Major events Good New Sound Oct 02 – 04, various locations, huh@huh.ee, www.huh.ee. Is there such a thing as a good new sound? The folks over at Huh certainly think so. In what has become an annual event you’ll hear a wide range of sounds and musical styles from some of Estonia’s top experimental performers and international innovators alike. Perhaps you’ll even get a chance to discover the next Lennon or Mozart in the making. 13 Smaller museums/galleries 58 38, adamson-eric@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. The permanent collection of works by the world-renowned artist AdamsonEric (1902 - 1968) is housed in a 16th-century building in Old Town. Affiliated with The Art Museum of Estonia. Through Nov 23: Latvian Modernism from the Beginning of the 20th Century - Niklavs Strunke (1894-1966). QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30kr. J Adamson-Eric Museum C-1/2, Lühike jalg 3, tel. 644 Move over, Cannes! 12th Annual Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival, Nov 13 - Dec 09, Coca-Cola Plaza, Kosmos cinema and other venues to be announced, www.poff.ee. If you missed this one last year like we did you will barely be able to forgive yourself. Estonia‘s biggest film festival concentrates on world cinema in all its diversity, with the emphasis on European films. Sub-festivals present animated films, student films and children’s and youth films. Major art museums Kadriorg Palace - Art Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. 606 64 00, fax 606 64 01, kadriorg@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. You could easily say that Peter the Great's spectacular Northern Baroque palace is a work of art in and of itself, but the palace is also home to Estonia's museum of foreign art. Paintings by 16th- 18th-century Dutch, German, Italian and masters, as well as 18th - 19th-century Russian works make up most of what's on display. Intriguing examples of sculpture, porcelain and glass can also be found here. Through December: Kadriorg 290. The Palace and Its Story. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Flower Garden is open in October 09.00-21.00. Admission 55kr. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 70kr. 61 23, fax 602 60 02, muuseum@ekm.ee, www.ekm. ee. Winning the title 'European Museum of the Year 2008' , Estonia's largest art museum makes its home in this enormous, cutting-edge facility built into a limestone cliff in Kadriorg. It serves as both a national gallery, displaying treasured works from Estonia's past, and as a contemporary art gallery, showing the latest trends. While here, be sure to explore the fascinating complex, built by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. Through Oct 12: Eerik Haamer - On Both Sides of the Sea; Through Nov 23: Fluxus; Through Jan 20: Grand Tour. Estonian Artists in Italy. Estonian art from 19th and 20th centuries; Oct 10 - through Dec: Utopia of Freedom. Artistic innovations of the late 1950's; Oct 31 - Jan 11: Sabotaging Reality. Surrealism in European Photographic Art in 1922-1947; Nov 27 - Feb 01: Video installation "Elephant Bullet". QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission to permanent exhibition 60kr, contemporary art 35kr, exhibitions in the Great Hall 50kr; all exhibitions 80kr. 2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. 644 28 18, info@kunstihoone. ee, www.kunstihoone.ee. Drop into this imposing 1930sera building on Vabaduse square to find some of the most daring and avant-garde temporary exhibitions from Estonia and abroad. The Art Hall's separate, smaller gallery (where admission is free) next door at Vabaduse väljak 6 hosts separate exhibitions. Through Oct 12: Andrei Monastõrski (Moscow), video and installation; Oct 22 - Nov 30: Ando Keskküla (1950-2008) retrospective exhibition "Museum". QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 35kr. Admission free on the last day of each exhibition. ee, www.etdm.ee. Works of Estonian applied art and intriguing temporary exhibitions are set off by irregular white walls. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 40kr. J Applied Art Museum (Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) B-2, Lai 17, tel. 627 46 00/627 46 11, info@etdm. City Gallery (Linnagalerii) D-2, Harju 13, tel. 644 28 18, info@kunstihoone.ee, www.kunstihoone.ee. A rapidly changing rotation of contemporary, and often boldly experimental, art exhibitions. The website lists the detailed schedule. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. Design & Architecture Gallery D-3, Pärnu mnt. 6, grynberg.ltd@mail.ee. Changing exhibition of Estonian product design. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. GRACE 2008 Oct 03, 19:00, Kalev Spordihall, www. grace.ee. Hey, we could all use a little gospel every now and again. Headlining this year’s event is Hillsong, an Australian praise group whose albums have reached gold around the world. Also set to be a big draw is the Oslo Gospel Choir and with their albums having reached platinum, we expect a good old-fashioned gospel showdown. But don’t worry, there will be paramedics on-site just in case it gets holy. Tallinn International Horse Show 2008 Oct 03 – 05, Saku Suurhall, www.sakusuurhall.ee, www. tallinnhorseshow.ee. “Hi-yo Silver, away!” Celebrating its seventh year, the Tallinn International Horse show is set to be an equestrian experience extraordinaire. Horses and riders from all over Europe will try to jump and trot their way to a hoofed victory in this Central European League World Cup event. Kumu G-5, Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, tel. 602 60 00/602 lemadu@yahoo.com, www.eaa.ee/draakon/dindex. htm. The famous Dragon gallery holds small exhibitions in its quaint, Old Town shop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex. htm. The Estonian Artists' Union operates this cosy, two-storey gallery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission free. Draakoni Gallery C-2, Pikk 18, tel. 646 41 10, tu- The Music of Andrew Lloyd Webber Oct 18, 14:00, Saku Suurhall, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Dedicated to the celebration of the 60th birthday of the king of musicals, this sure to be sold-out event will feature the singing talents of several of the soloists from his shows in London, including Rachel Barell, Jacqui Scott, David Shannon and Simon Bowman as well as some other musical instruments and orchestras thrown in for good measure. This amount of talent is guaranteed to put a gay smile on even the saddest of faces. The Scorpions Humanity World Tour 2008 Nov 02, 20:30, Saku Suurhall, w w w.sakusuurhall.ee, w w w.city-concer t.ee. With 21 albums under their belts, the Scorpions continue to please crowds at stadiums world-wide, not bad for a bunch of old German men dressed in tight leather pants – but isn’t that how all older German men dress? All stereotyping aside, this should be a great rock show performed by one of Europe’s most loved bands, even Vladimir Putin digs them and could even be seen mouthing the words to “Wind of Change” when they performed at a recent KGB shindig. St. Martin’s Day Fair (Mardilaat) Nov 06 - 09, Saku Hobusepea Gallery B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. 627 67 Tallinn Art Hall & Gallery (Tallinna Kunstihoone) D- Kastellaanimaja Gallery H-4, Roheline aas 3, tel. 601 31 81, vilde@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum. ee/vilde. Exhibitions by local artists in the Eduard Vilde museum. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10kr. Free every last Friday of the month. Kuninga 6, tel. 644 68 73, galerii@kullo.ee, www.kullo. ee. Located in a fascinating medieval dwelling house, Kullo hosts workshops for children and highlights works by the coming generation of Estonian artists. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 6kr. lywood.ee. What do you get when you mate a DJ with a British punk rock girl? Never mind the Sex Pistols, here’s the Klaxons! There probably won’t be any air-raid sirens screaming at the intimate Tallinn show, however you can expect a lively bunch of indieBrit-punk-dance shenanigans, some loud guitar noise and at least a few fans getting wasted on tequila in the back. Klaxons Oct 06, 20:00, Club Hollywood, www.clubhol- Kullo Children's Gallery (Kullo Lastegalerii) C-2, Mikkel Museum G-5, Weizenbergi 28, tel. 601 58 44, mikkel@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Housed in the renovated kitchen building on the grounds of Kadriorg Palace and Park, the Mikkel Museum is one of Estonia's most impressive private art collections. Johannes Mikkel donated his vast collection of European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, porcelain and icons to the Estonian Art Museum in 1994. QOpen 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25kr. Joint ticket (Kadriorg Palace and Mikkel Museum) 70kr. Museum of Estonian Architecture B-4, Ahtri 2, tel. 625 70 00/625 70 07, info@arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. Tallinn's architecture museum is located in the port area and housed in the restored Rotermann Salt Storage building, itself an architectural curiousity. The permanent exhibition in the basement, 'History Reflected in Architecture', runs through December. Temporary exhibitions are held on upper floors. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30kr. Rocktoberfest Oct 17 – 18, 19:00, Rock Café, www. rockcafe.ee. Who cares about Oktoberfest when you’ve got Rocktoberfest. This annual two-day rock event brings together some of the best new-rock bands this side of Lillehammer for a rowdy, ear-splitting good time. And get this, you’ll still get to drink all the beer that you want, wear Lederhosen and pinch the asses of a Freulein or two. Just don’t tell them we said it was okay. Performers include: The Haunted (SWE), Clawfinger (SWE), Leech (EST) and many more. Monster mashed Monster Magnet Nov 11, 19:30, Rock Café, www. rockcafe.ee, www.fbi.ee. It has often been said that to be able to create good rock music you either have to have been raised in a cold dark climate or some other kind of depressing environment. Well, the monsters do come from New Jersey, Nuff said. This will be a loud rock show where the men are men and the women dance naked... we kid you not. Enough reason right there if you ask us. Suurhall, www.folkart.ee. In honour of St. Martin’s Day (see Folk Holidays box, page 14) the Estonian Folkart and Handicraft Union organises this fair involving workshops, handicraft sales, national cuisine, folk music, Mardi costumes and general promotion of folk lifestyle. Tallinn International Open Cup 2008 Nov 29 - 30 Saku Suurhall, w w w.sakusuurhall.ee, w w w. tkrevalia.ee. Brought to you by the Estonian Dance Spor t Association or EDSA for short, this all Latin dance competition will feature some of the best tans and sexiest legs from all over Estonia and Europe. Watch as these permanent smilers spin and twist and shake and strut their scantily-clad way to these coveted titles. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 14 CULTURE & EVENTS October cultural calendar Date Time Event Venue 01 12:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet 01 19:00 International Music Day: Berlioz. EO Romeo and Julia 02 19:00 Cinderella - opera EO 02 23:00 Funkdoobiest (USA) CP 03 19:00 La Sylphide - ballet EO 04 17:00 Tristan and Isolde - opera EO 04 17:00 Autumn Jazz: Andrea Marcelli Italian KU Trio feat. Raul Sööt & Ain Agan (ItalyEstonia) 04 20:00 Paul Gilbert (USA) RC 05 12:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet 05 17:00 Dominique Pifarely Trio (France) WG 07 19:00 Johann Strauss - King of Waltz and EO Operetta 08 19:00 Karamazov Brothers (Russia) WG 09 19:00 Vienna Blood - operetta EO 09 19:00 Tartu Jazz presents: Changing Images EC 09 19:30 Mikko Orpana (Finland) Man Machine KG - modern dance performance 10 19:00 My Fair Lady - musical EO 10 19:30 Mikko Orpana (Finland) Man Machine KG - modern dance performance 11 18:00 Great Music Academy TH 11 19:00 La Dame aux Camélias - ballet EO 11 19:00 Trio Romance - Opening of the Season BB 11 22:00 Billy’s Band (Russia) CA 12 12:00 Rigoletto - opera EO 14 19:00 Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Dancing Sportsmen 15 19:00 Bergen Philharmonic Orchestra EC (Norway) 15 19:00 Rigoletto - opera EO 16 19:00 Don Quijote - ballet EO 16 19:00 Golden Mask/Songs of Komitas RT - dance performance (Natalia Kasparova, Russia) 16 21:00 Autumn Jazz: Ajavares (Estonia) VK 17 19:00 Armastuse Valem (Formula of Love) EO - opera; World Premiere! 18 14:00 Andrew Lloyd Webber 60 - Anniversary SS Gala 18 16:00 Early music consort Hortus Musicus VT EO 18 19:00 Armastuse Valem (Formula of Love) - opera 18 20:00 Andrew Lloyd Webber 60 - Anniversary SS Gala 19 12:00 Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet 20 19:00 Autumn Jazz: The Romanian-American KU Jazz Summit Sam Newsome & Lucian Ban Sextet (USA-Romania) 21 19:00 Grand Opera Café Concert - Kädy EO Plaas (soprano), Terje Terasmaa (vibraphone), Arvo Leibur (violin), Heiki Mätlik (guitar) 21 19:00 Alessandra Russo (flute, Italy) and Ave EC Kruup (piano, Estonia) 22 19:00 Don Quijote - ballet EO 22 19:00 Estonian-Ukrainian folkband Svjata WG Vatra 22 19:00 Yuri Bashmet and Moscow soloists EC 23 19:00 Tosca - opera EO 23 19:00 Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir NC conducted by Daniel Reuss 24 19:00 La Dame aux Camélias - ballet EO CULTURE & EVENTS Venue abbreviations BB CA CH CP EC EO KG KP KU LH ME NC RT SC SS SY TH TZ VK VT WG Brotherhood of the Blackheads; Pikk 26 Café Amigo; Viru väljak 4/6 Club Holywood; Vana-Posti 8 Club Privé; Harju 6 Estonia Concert Hall; Estonia pst.4 Estonian National Opera; Estonia pst.4 Kanuti Guild Hall; Pikk 20 Kadriorg Palace; Weizenbergi 37 KUMU Art Museum; Weizenbergi 34 Linnahall; Mere pst.20 G. A. Gymnasium; Suur-Kloostri 3 Niguliste Church; Niguliste 3 Russian Theatre; Vabaduse Sq. Salme Culture Centre; Salme 12 Saku Suurhall; Paldiski mnt.104B Stenboch Yard; Rahukohtu 3 Tallinn Town Hall - Raekoda Tallinn Zoo; Paldiski mnt 145/Ehitajate 150 Von Krahl; Rataskaevu 10/12 Väravatorn, Gate Tower; Lühike jalg 9 Winter Garden of Est. Ntl. Opera; Estonia pst.4 15 November cultural calendar Date Time 01 18:00 01 19:00 01 21:00 02 17:00 04 19:00 04 19:00 05 05 05 06 06 06 07 07 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Event Venue Romeo and Juliet - Ballet EO Early music consort Hortus Musicus NC Glenn Hughes (UK) RC All Souls’ Day Concert: Mozart. KC Requiem Aida - opera (concert performance) EC EO Johann Strauss - King of Waltz and Operetta Autumn Jazz: Brian Melvin 50 (USA- SC Estonia) La Sylphide - ballet EO ConcertJazz - Jaak Tuksam (vocal, WG guitar), Riho Sibul (vocal, guitar), Robert Jürjendal (guitar) The Queen of Spades - opera EO Fathers’ Day’s Concert - Estonia EC National Opera Boys Choir, Estonia National Male Choir Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Fine5 Dance Theatre „Faasid“ (Phases) Romeo and Juliet - Ballet EO Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Fine5 Dance Theatre „Faasid“ (Phases) Hit Show: Pippi and Winnie the Pooh EO in Estonia Benjamin Verdery (guitar, USA) ME The Queen of Spades - opera EO Tantsukunst Kumus (Art of Dancing in KU Kumu): Fine5 Dance Theatre „Faasid“ (Phases) Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs EO - children’s ballet Tango Ballet - chamber dance EO performance Death and The Maiden - dance EO performance Vox Clamantis - Toomas Trass (organ) NC Vienna Blood - operetta EO Cinderella - opera EO Estonian National Opera Wind Quintet ME My Fair Lady - musical EO Swan Lake - ballet EO Rudolf Tobias. Oratio Des Jona EC Sendung / Johah’s Mission Early music consort Hortus Musicus VT Romeo and Juliet - Ballet EO My Fair Lady - musical EO La Vie En Rose - French music EO My Fair Lady - musical EO Rigoletto - opera EO My Fair Lady - musical EO Tosca - opera EO Swan Lake - ballet EO Cinemas Tallinn's cinemas are fairly central, and all films except kids' films are shown in their original language with Estonian subtitles. You can always find out what's playing by calling the 1182 infoline. Operators speak English. Coca-Cola Plaza G-3, Hobujaama 5, tel. 1182, info@ forumcinemas.ee, www.superkinod.ee. This high-tech, 11screen super cinema is most people's first stop for Hollywood blockbusters. Tickets for evening shows cost 120kr. Kinomaja C-3, Uus 3, tel. 646 40 68/55 56 12 64, kinomaja@kinoliit.ee, www.kinomaja.ee. Run by Estonia's cinema union, the 'Cinema House' concentrates on the esoteric and obscure. Q W kinod.ee. Run by the same company as Coca-Cola Plaza, this two-screen cinema also has a strong Hollywood bent, but ticket prices are much cheaper. Q Closed Mon. Kosmos H-2, Pärnu mnt. 45, tel. 1182, www.super- Date Time Event Venue 24 19:00 Festival Piano - Opening concert EC 25 12:00 Hit Show: Pippi and Winnie the Pooh EO in Estonia 25 16:00 Festival Piano - Sten Lassmann (piano) EC 25 19:00 Festival Piano - Stephen Hough (piano, EC Great Britain) 25 19:00 Tosca - opera EO 26 16:00 Festival Piano - The Winner of Estonian EC Pianists Competition 2008 27 19:00 Autumn Jazz: Krakauer’s Klezmer RT Madness! (USA) 28 19:00 Simple Plan (Canada) RC 29 19:00 Tango Ballet - chamber dance EO performance 30 19:00 Wallenberg - opera by E.-S. Tüür EO 30 19:00 Nikolai Baskov and Montserrat Marti LH Caballe - concert 30 19:00 Psychea (Russia) RC 31 19:00 Wallenberg - opera by E.-S. Tüür EO Sõprus D-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. 644 19 19, info@kino.ee, www.kino.ee. Tallinn's art-house cinema has a full schedule of independent films, Estonian poductions, shorts and kids' films. Tickets 50 - 100kr. 08 12:00 08 18:00 08 19:00 08 19:00 09 09 11 12 12 14 14 18 20 21 22 22 23 23 26 27 28 29 30 12:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 16:00 19:00 12:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 12:00 Concert halls Estonia Concert Hall D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 60, info@concert.ee, www.concert.ee. The premier venue for classical music and the home of national concert organiser Eesti Kontsert. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Sun open 1 hr before scheduled concerts. Estonian National Opera D-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 683 12 01/683 12 60, fax 631 30 80, info@opera.ee, www. opera.ee. Tallinn's pride and joy hosts opera, ballet and frequent performances by internationally-renowned guests. Tickets cost up to 600kr. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. House of the Brotherhood of the Blackheads (Mustpeade Maja) B-3, Pikk 26, tel. 631 31 99, Folk holidays in autumn All Souls’ Day Nov 02. Estonians don’t celebrate Halloween, but they do have a day to honour their dead. All Souls’ Day (Hingedepäev) is a solemn, private affair in which the dead are honoured by placing candles in windows or on graves. Indeed any cemetery visited on that night will be filled with the eerily beautiful glow of flickering flames. info@mustpeademaja.ee, www.mustpeademaja.ee. This ornate 15th-century guild hall hosts the occasional classical music concerts Q Box office open one hour before performance. Linnahall A-4, Mere pst. 20, tel. 641 15 00/641 16 00, info@linnahall.ee, www.linnahall.ee. That massive grey monolith at the harbour hosts pop concerts and occasional big names. Q Box office open 11:00 - 19:00. St. Martin’s Day (Mardipäev) Nov 10. One of the most important holidays in the rural calendar, St. Martin’s Day traditionally marks the end of the autumn season. Young folks in the countryside put on costumes and go door to door, singing and begging for treats. St. Catherine’s Day (Kadripäev) Nov 25. The female equivalent of Mardipäev, with similar activities. Instead of animal masks however, revellers of both genders dress as women. Don’t ask. Tickets you say? Tickets to most major events are available from: Piletimaailm H-3, Gonsiori 2, tel. 667 33 37, www.piletimaailm.ee and Piletilevi C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, www.piletilevi.ee. Estonia's major concert organiser, Eesti Kontsert, has its own box office in Tallinn at E-3, Estonia pst. 4, tel. 614 77 60, fax 614 77 69, info@ concert.ee, www.concert.ee. Niguliste Museum-Concert Hall C-2, Niguliste 3, tel. 631 43 30, fax 631 43 27, niguliste@ekm.ee, www. ekm.ee. Organ music concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. For more on this 13th-century Gothic church, see What to see. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 35kr. Saku Suurhall Paldiski mnt. 104b, tel. 660 02 00/626 11 11, sakusuurhall@sakusuurhall.ee, www.sakusuurhall.ee. Famous as the venue for the 47th Eurovision Song Contest in 2002, this 7000-seat sports and concert arena hosts large concerts and major sporting events. 07 19, hortus@concert.ee. This 15th-century tower is the spiritual and physical home of early music ensemble Hortus Musicus. Väravatorn C/D-1/2, Lühike jalg 9, tel. 614 77 60/644 Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 16 WHERE TO STAY Tallinn’s hospitality industry has reached capacity. Last year the number of hotel rooms in Tallinn increased by a whopping 20%, bringing the total number of rooms to 7000. For the tourist this means the choice of where to stay has never been better. Depending on when you book, don’t be surprised if you are able to get a room for below the prices we have listed in the guide. A fluctuating price system seems to be a new trend at higher-end hotels. Prices listed below include VAT and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. WHERE TO STAY Symbol key N Payment in cash only U Facilities for disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms J Old Town location C Swimming pool P Air conditioning O Casino hhh Star rating (optional) H Conference facilities R LAN connection F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace 6 Pets allowed W WiFi connection 33/669 06 90, fax 669 06 91, sales@revalhotels. com, www.revalhotels.com. Originally built for the 1980 Olympics, this fully-modernized, 26-storey, downtown tower is now the proud flagship of the Reval Hotel chain ... and it’s no wonder. The long list of facilities here includes a gargantuan conference centre, a fitness centre with a spectacular view and a genuinely popular nightclub. The rooms won’t disappoint either, but for an unforgettable experience, book the top-floor sauna that faces Old Town. Q390 rooms (singles 1955 - 2268kr, doubles 2112 - 2581kr, triples 2738 - 3442kr, suites 2581 - 18000kr, apartments 5555 - 7040kr, family room 2738 - 3442kr). Extra bed 470kr. PHRUFL GKDCW hhhh 17 Reval Hotel Olümpia H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. 631 53 Cream of the crop Barons C/D-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja 2, tel. 699 97 00, fax 699 97 10, barons@baronshotel.ee, www.baronshotel.ee. Housed in a gorgeous Old Town bank building dating back to 1912, this business class beauty has managed to retain much of its architectural grandeur both inside and out. From the classy singles to the luxury suite, all rooms come complete with satellite television and internet access for those who like to stay in touch. Among the added bonuses are a bar, restaurant and upto-the-minute conference facilities. Q33 rooms (singles 1900kr, doubles 2200 - 2800kr, suites 3800 - 4200kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 200kr. PJHR6UILGKDW hhhh Savoy Boutique D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. 680 Domina Inn City D-2, Vana-Posti 11/13, tel. 681 39 00, fax 681 39 01, city@dominahotels.ee, www.dominahotels. com. In a refurbished 18th-century building next to Sőprus cinema, Domina City offers marblesque stylishness right in the heart of Old Town. Business travellers will appreciate the conference room and the fact that every room has its own computer with internet connection. Pricier ‘executive’ rooms are more spacious and have better views. Kids under 12 stay free. Q68 rooms (singles 2000 - 2800kr, doubles 2800 - 3200kr, suites 4000 - 4700kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 400kr. PJHR6LGKDW hhhh 00, fax 614 09 01, ilmarine@dominahotels.ee, www. dominahotels.com. Bringing a touch of class to the renewed port area, Domina Ilmarine spoils its guests with spacious split-level suites, charming standard rooms and an airy atrium/café. Full apartments are available in the building next door for guests who want a bit more privacy. In keeping with these high-tech times, free internet connection is available in all rooms and mini-offices are available for business people. Kids under 12 stay free. Q152 rooms (singles 2190kr, doubles 2346kr, suites 2425 - 3129kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 400kr. PHR6ULGKDW hhhh Domina Inn Ilmarine A-3, Pőhja pst. 23, tel. 614 09 66 88, fax 680 66 89, savoy@tallinnhotels.ee, www. savoyhotel.ee. Every bit as posh as the name implies, this Old Town establishment is a worthy addition to the growing boutique hotel market. Along with very tasteful rooms with oldfashioned touches (antique photos included), Savoy offers lots of little comforts like bathrobes, slippers and free local calls. And if you don’t have your own laptop, they’ll lend you one. Beautiful lobby café. Q43 rooms (singles 2034 - 2347kr, doubles 2425 - 2738kr, suites 3990 - 4303kr). Extra bed 550kr, pets 250kr. JH6UIGKW hhhhh Merchant’s House C-2, Dunkri 4/6, tel. 697 75 00, fax 697 75 01, info@merchantshousehotel.com, www.merchantshousehotel.com. This beautiful structure is essentially a 14th-century merchant’s house turned into a luxury, boutiquestyle hotel, so don’t be surprised if you get lost in the twists and turns of its corridors. Each of its rooms and suites has been done up with cool, chic décor, tastefully fitted to the historic building. Look for creature comforts like plasma TVs, high-speed internet and fluffy bathrobes. You’ll also find a ‘relax room’, brasserie restaurant, café and an Ice Bar, where chilly drinks are served in ice-formed shot glasses. Q37 rooms (singles 1564kr, doubles 2200kr, triples 2600kr, suites 3100kr). Extra bed 400kr. PJRIGKDW hhhh Meriton Grand Hotel Tallinn G-2, Toompuiestee 27, tel. 667 71 11, fax 667 75 55, hotel@meritonhotels. com, www.meritonhotels.com. This establishment easily lives up to its imposing name by providing professional service and flawless décor, but what’s really ‘grand’ about the hotel are the sweeping views of Toompea hill from the landings, some rooms, and even the lift! Rooms are decorated with striking colour photos, and a few suites even have a jacuzzi. Don’t miss out on the free sauna and loads of other amenities. Q164 rooms (singles 2340kr, doubles 2650kr, suites 3900 - 7190kr). Extra bed 407kr, pets 300kr. PJ OH6UILGKDW hhhh Radisson SAS D-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel. 682 30 00, fax 682 30 01, reservations.tallinn@radissonsas.com, www.tallinn.radissonsas.com. From the immaculate furnishings to little touches like shoe buffers in the corridor, Radisson never misses a beat, proving there’s something to be said for painfully strict international standards of quality. Other perks here include sweeping views of the city and a free morning sauna. The hotel has a definite business bent with its 14 conference rooms and office services, but families will appreciate the fact that kids under 17 stay free. Q280 rooms (singles 2065kr, doubles 2285kr, suites 5585 - 15990kr). Extra bed 390kr. PHRUIFLGKDW Schlössle C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. 699 77 00, fax 699 77 77, schlossle@schlossle-hotels.com, www. schlossle-hotels.com. The elegance, history and warmth of its three attached Old Town buildings are a major part of Schlössle’s five-star appeal. Over the past decade this luxury hotel has played host to musicians and heads of state, but even if you aren’t rock or royalty, the helpful and friendly staff will treat you as such. A beautiful medieval lobby, a crackling fireplace and a world class restaurant invite you to linger and stay just one more night. Q23 rooms (singles 3521 - 4100kr, doubles 4022 - 4601kr, suites 6667 - 14852kr). Extra bed 704kr, pets 250kr. PJHR6UILGKDW hhhhh St. Petersbourg C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. 628 65 00, fax 628 65 65, stpetersbourg@schlossle-hotels.com, www. schlossle-hotels.com. Aristocrats in the 19th century would stay at the St. Petersbourg when visiting Tallinn, likewise 21stcentury travellers looking for luxury Old Town accommodation can find it here at the city’s oldest, continuously-running hotel. Completely renovated to keep pace with newer rivals, the hotel treats its guests with modern comforts like deluxe artdeco furnishing and plush bathrobes, all the while retaining a strong sense of old world charm. Bear in mind that rooms tend to be small. Q27 rooms (singles 2645 - 3083kr, doubles 3020 - 3459kr, suites 4930 - 5712kr). Extra bed 704kr, pets 500kr. JH6UIFLGKDW hhhh Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 October - November 2008 18 WHERE TO STAY 01, tallinn@swissotel.com, www.tallinn.swissotel.com. This luxury hotel located next to Stockmann gains bragging rights as Tallinn’s tallest building. We haven’t been able to take a look inside ourselves, but we’re sure you’ll find all the things you’d come to expect from the snooty Swissotel chain, including extravagant ballrooms, a high-end spa, state-of-theart technology and a militantly trained staff catering to your every whim. Q238 rooms (doubles 2574kr, suites 4000kr). Extra bed restricted to grand rooms only 626kr, breakfast 235kr. PHRUFLGKDCW WHERE TO STAY Swissotel H-3, Tornimäe 3, tel. 624 00 00, fax 624 00 19 Upmarket Baltic Hotel Imperial B/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. 627 48 00, fax 627 48 01, imperial@baltichotelgroup.com, www.imperial.ee. Part of the medieval Old Town wall runs right through this small, luxury hotel, and designers have wisely integrated it into the 21st-century interior to preserve the historical feel of the building. The Imperial’s management have aimed for a four-star level of quality, and with its bright rooms, beautiful sauna hall and elegant cheese restaurant (Estonia’s only), they got there. The size of the double rooms varies. Be sure to ask for one overlooking the neighbourhood’s picturesque cobbled streets. Q32 rooms (singles 2035kr, doubles 2500kr, suites 3130 - 5945kr). Extra bed 500kr. PJHRUIL GKDW hhhh Telegraaf C-3, Vene 9, tel. 600 06 00, fax 600 06 01, info@telegraafhotel.com, www.telegraafhotel.com. Brought to us by the same professional team that runs the renowned Three Sisters, this full-service hotel in a restored 19th-century former bank turned communications building has facilities that include a wellness spa, a Russian-style restaurant and an unheard-of Old Town luxury: underground parking! The ultra comfortable rooms are more spacious than typical for an Old Town hotel, you might however be tempted to spend a little bit too much time in the bathrooms decorated with ‘French’ post cards’. Q86 rooms (singles 2974kr, doubles 3365kr, 8 suites 5478kr). Extra bed 550kr. PJHRUILGKDCW hhhhh Three Sisters A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. 630 63 00, fax 630 63 01, info@threesistershotel.com, www. threesistershotel.com. This luxury hotel built into three famous medieval houses on the end of Pikk tänav provides the quintessential Tallinn experience. The top-notch establishment offers large rooms decorated in a striking blend of modern and antique styles. Flat-screen TVs can be found alongside old-fashioned bathtubs and hidden staircases. One suite even sports a grand piano. The library with fireplace and cosy wine cellar are nice extras. Q23 rooms (singles 3050 - 3440kr, doubles 3365 - 3755kr, suites 5795 - 6930kr). Extra bed 780kr, pets 500kr. PJHR6UILGKW hhhhh Viru Inn C-3, Viru 8, tel. 611 76 00, fax 641 83 57, viruinn@viruinn.ee, www.viruinn.ee. Set in a 15th-century house on Old Town’s main shopping street, this intimate, boutique hotel offers the quintessential Tallinn accommodation experience - wooden beams, curvy staircases and all. Each of its rooms and suites is a bit different, but all come complete with antique-style furnishings and other old-fashioned touches. Its modern bonuses include an enormous Jacuzzi, two saunas (free in mornings), an Italian café, a wine cellar and free airport pick-ups. Children under 12 stay at no extra charge. Q15 rooms (singles 2815kr, doubles 3130 - 3910kr, suites 4695 - 6260kr). Extra bed 550kr. PJHRUGKDCW Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru C-3, Viru 11, tel. 669 15 00, fax 669 15 01, hotel@vanawiru.ee, www.vanawiru.ee. It’s hard to imagine that a five-storey hotel with such a grandiose marble lobby - complete with an elevated walking bridge and Italian restaurant - could be tucked into this bustling part of Old Town, but a quick peek at Vana Wiru will remove all doubt. In addition to offering guests an unbeatable location and pristine rooms, the hotel caters to business travellers with in-room internet connections and WiFi in the lobby, and social types will appreciate the free admission to the nearby Venus nightclub to which guests are entitled. Find the main entrance around the corner off Müürivahe. Q82 rooms (singles 2000 2100kr, doubles 2400 - 3000kr, suites 3700 - 4600kr). Extra bed 500kr. JHRUILGKDW hhhh tels.ee, www.bern.ee. Hotel Bern, which is tucked into a courtyard that’s conveniently across from a grocery store, aims to bring its guests the best in Swiss-style hospitality with its friendly and professional staff. Due to size restrictions the 50-room establishment hasn’t got many perks, but it does have a 24- hour bar, and breakfast is served in their petite, in-house restaurant. Q50 rooms (singles 1173 - 1486kr, doubles 1330 - 1643kr, suites 2269 - 2582kr). Extra bed 350kr, pets 250kr. PJ6UGKDW hhhh Bern C-3/4, Aia 10, tel. 680 66 30, bern@tallinnho- Clarion Hotel Euroopa G-3, Paadi 5, tel. 669 97 77, fax 669 97 70, info@euroopa.ee, www.euroopa.ee. Located in the port, they offer all the modern conveniences you’d expect from a four-star hotel with a few extras such as your very own guard-lamb on every bed. The 185 room hotel caters primarily to the business set, offering 6 conference rooms, wireless internet throughout the premises and includes a sauna and fitness centre which are both complimentary for guests. The 41 business rooms also come equipped with balconies that have views overlooking the bustling port area. Q185 rooms (singles 1878kr, doubles 2240kr, 4 suites 3200 - 5475kr). Extra bed 407kr, pets 200kr. Breakfast included. PHR6UFLGKDW hhhh L’Ermitage H-2, Toompuiestee 19, tel. 699 64 00, fax 699 64 01, info@lermitagehotel.ee, www.lermitagehotel.ee. A quiet, restful place to hermit yourself away - just as the French name implies - the centrally-located L’Ermitage pampers its guests with in-room creature comforts like minibars, flat pannel TVs and internet connections. Some rooms even have views of Toompea Castle, in case you lose yourself in introspection and forget what country you’re in. For a truly gigantic bathroom, be sure to request a ‘superior’ double. Q91 rooms (singles 1690kr, doubles 2112kr, suites 2582 - 3364kr). Extra bed 376kr. PJHRUILG KDW hhh Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 20 WHERE TO STAY Meriton Old Town Hotel A-3, Lai 49, tel. 614 13 00, fax 614 13 11, oldtown@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. A nice combination of modern comfort and historic surroundings are what’s offered in this tourist-class hotel at the edge of Old Town. The main building with its zigzagging corridors dates from the 19th century and houses somewhat small, but cheerfully decorated guest rooms. More interesting is the lobby, which contains part of the old city wall and the round, outer edge of the neighbouring 15th-century horse mill. Try the café here for cakes. Q41 rooms (singles 1404 - 1872kr, doubles 1700 - 1872kr). Extra bed 350kr. JRUILGKW WHERE TO STAY Reval Park Hotel & Casino H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, tel. 630 53 05, fax 630 53 15, park.sales@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. The lobby of this hotel houses the flashy Olympic Casino, so the ground floor is a lot like a miniature Vegas. The hotel itself, about a 15-minute walk from Old Town, has spacious double rooms with great views of the nearby park. Other plusses are the restaurant, which offers the only all-day buffet in Tallinn, and the swank Park Lounge in the cellar. Q121 rooms (singles 1017 - 1674kr, doubles 1252 - 1876kr, 2 suites 2942 - 4037kr). Extra bed 469kr, pets 469kr. POHR6ULGKW hhhh Scandic Palace E-2, Vabaduse väljak 3, tel. 640 73 00, fax 640 72 88, palace@scandichotels.com, www.scandichotels.com. For that classic, brass-trimmed, bell-hopping hotel experience, it’s hard to outdo the Scandic Palace. This old Tallinn standby manages to outclass many newer arrivals with little touches like wood-paneled elevators, trouser presses, and a nice, 1930s-style café next to the lobby. Ask for a room facing Old Town, overlooking the square. Breakfast included. Q86 rooms (singles 1670 - 2280kr, doubles 1980 - 2590kr, triples 2370 - 2980kr, suites 3474 - 5540kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 200kr. PHR6UFGKDW Sokos Hotel Viru C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. 680 93 00, fax 680 92 36, viru.reservation@sok.fi, www.viru.ee. Occupying an enviable spot on what’s generally considered the very centre of Tallinn, the large, Finnish-managed Sokos Viru Hotel offers an unbeatable combination of amenities and location. Aside from several classes of spiffy rooms, a conference centre, two respectable restaurants and a popular nightclub, the hotel also has direct access to the huge Viru shopping centre, which can satisfy even the deepest of retail cravings. Q516 rooms (singles 1068 - 2707kr, doubles 1377 - 3019kr, suites 3411 - 5054kr, family rooms 1533 - 3175kr). Extra bed 422kr, pets 422kr. PJHR6ULGKDW 21 Spa hotels Each of the spa hotels below offers accommodation as well as treatment packages and day spa services. Prices here are for accommodation only, check their websites for details on their package deals. 649 33 01, kalevspa@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa. ee. Opened in 2006, this enormous, state-of-the-art facility brings Estonia’s spa phenomenon to the heart of the city. In addition to tidy guest rooms, complete spa packages are available, as are a beauty centre, a fitness centre and a restaurant with a view of the water park. The park includes three (count ‘em!) waterslides and a 50m swimming pool, Tallinn’s largest. Q100 rooms (singles 1300 - 2260kr, doubles 1500 - 2450kr, suites 2700 - 3400kr, Family rooms 2500 - 3100kr). Extra bed 400kr, pets 200kr. JHR6UFLGKDCW hhh 88 22, fax 639 88 21, hotel@topspa.ee, reservation@topspa.ee, www.topspa.ee, www.hotels. tallink.com. Originally built for the 1980 Olympic Games, Pirita TOP SPA was renovated and reopened in 2003 as Tallinn’s most sprawling hotel and spa complex. It has ample space for its several shops, a beauty centre, restaurant, casino, pharmacy and optician, to say nothing of its extensive health facilites and several classes of guest rooms. A number of treatments are available, and use of the sauna and 25m swimming pool are free for guests. Take bus N° 1A, 8, 34A or 38 from bus station under Viru Centre Q267 rooms (singles 900 - 1000kr, doubles 1200 - 1300kr, suites 1700 - 1900kr, family room 1400 - 1500kr). Extra bed 300kr. HRUFL GKDCW hhh Kalev Spa Hotel B-3, Aia 18, tel. 649 33 00, fax Metropol B-4, Roseni 13, tel. 667 45 00/667 46 68, fax 667 46 60, booking@metropol.ee, www.metropol. ee. This eight-storey hotel in the happening tourist area near the port has long been popular with Scandinavian weekenders. Rooms are respectably furnished in dark wood and wood-simulated linoleum, and those from the fifth floor up have some decent views. Other plusses include the smart restaurant, casino, beauty salon, and exciting bowling packages complete with heavy breakfast. Q149 rooms (singles 1408kr, doubles 1612kr, suites 2206 - 2801kr). Extra bed 360kr, pets 360kr. HR6ULGKDW hhh fax 622 29 01, info@nordichotels.eu, www.nordichotels. eu. You certainly won’t be able to miss this stylish brassflanked, glass structure which has 137 m of cedar trees lining the roof. The hotel’s interior is thoughtfully designed, using natural materials which ooze warmth and comfort throughout. The Forum’s friendly staff have also been carefully selected to make sure travellers who pass through its doors are well looked after. Q267 rooms (singles 1330 - 2191kr, doubles 1643 - 2503kr, suites 3051 - 3912kr). Extra bed 470kr, pets 310kr. PJH6UIFLGKDCW Pirita TOP SPA Regati pst. 1, tel. 639 86 00/639 Nordic Hotel Forum C-4, Viru väljak 3, tel. 622 29 00, 00, fax 631 33 33, maestro@maestrohotel.ee, www.maestrohotel.ee. For those who like to be in the middle of the action, this six-storey hotel located at the epicentre of Tallinn’s Old Town bar scene is a classy choice. In keeping with the era of the hotel’s facade, the décor here was given a subtle touch of the 1930s (think Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot). Don’t leave without checking out the picture-postcard view of Toompea from the top-floor sauna. Q23 rooms (singles 1300kr, doubles 1500kr, suites 2900kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 300kr. PJHRGDW Old Town Maestro’s C/D-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. 626 20 St. Barbara E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. 640 00 40, fax Olevi Residents B-3, Olevimägi 4, tel. 627 76 50, fax 627 76 51, olevi@olevi.ee, www.olevi.ee. It’s hard to believe that what looks like an ancient, narrow, Old Town dwelling could house a seven-storey hotel complete with restaurant and sauna, but Olevi manages to do just that. Rooms are a little dated and the layout is confusing, but all in all a fairly comfortable choice. Be sure to ask about the substantial discounts for groups and individuals. Q37 rooms (singles 840kr, doubles 660 - 960kr, suites 1750 - 1900kr). Extra bed 300kr. JHGKDW Reval Hotel Central G-3, Narva mnt. 7c, tel. 633 98 00, fax 633 99 00, central.sales@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. This spiffy downtown hotel has a wide range of rooms and the same helpful services you’d expect from the rest of the Reval chain. The spacious rooms come tastefully decorated with a modern flair. Children are well catered for in family rooms and the lobby café, which has an adjacent children’s play area. The hotel also has a beauty salon, and a little shop selling newspapers and magazines. Q245 rooms (singles 1000 - 1400kr, doubles 1200 - 1500kr, triples 1400 - 1800kr). Extra bed 422kr, pets 422kr. PH6UILGKDW hhh 640 00 41, reservations@stbarbara.ee, www.stbarbara. ee. More affordable than many other centrally located hotels in its class, the St. Barbara delivers the same high quality, but without certain extras like a lobby bar and sauna. The rooms here are a little lived-in, but quite nice, many featuring high ceilings and enormous windows. Be sure to ask about the interesting legends surrounding the saint from which the hotel got its name. Q53 rooms (singles 1450kr, doubles 1700kr, family room 2000 - 2600kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 390kr. PJH6LGKW Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel F-3, Sadama 11a, St. Olav Hotel C-2, Lai 5, tel. 616 11 80, fax 616 11 81, olav@olav.ee, www.olav.ee. Located a short jaunt from Town Hall Square and named for the Norwegian King St. Olaf, this recently renovated 15th century building now plays host to a hotel. The four-storey historical structure contains a labyrinth of hallways and richly decorated rooms presenting some interesting and very old architectural details. The staff are friendly and useful, however you may need a map to find your room. Q90 rooms (singles 1200 - 1400kr, doubles 1600kr, suites 2900 - 5000kr). Extra bed 400kr. PJHUGK hhhh Taanilinna Hotell C-3, Uus 6, tel. 640 67 00, fax 646 43 06, info@taanilinna.ee, www.taanilinna.ee. Management have lent one of Tallinn’s medieval names to this fittingly old-fashioned looking hotel in the heart of Old Town. The décor here sports deliberately quaint retro-touches, while all the fixtures are modern and even on the elegant side. Drop into the wine cellar for a glass of port. Q20 rooms (singles 1950kr, doubles 1490 - 2150kr, suites 2800kr). Extra bed 400kr. JHRULGKDW hhhh tel. 630 10 00, fax 630 10 10, spahotel@tallink. ee, www.hotels.tallink.com. Gigantic, bare-breasted sirens flanking the doors and a bright, groovy lobby bar are your first clues that this place is far bolder than your average spa hotel. Apart from its signature Aqua Spa, spa packages and guest rooms - some of which overlook the decadent pool bar in the hotel’s central atrium - the hightech establishment near the passenger port offers six conference rooms, a Fidel cigar bar and a beauty salon. Q275 rooms (singles 1080 - 2457kr, doubles, family rooms 21471 - 3302kr, suites 1941 - 4710kr). Extra bed 391kr. PHRULGKDCW hhhh fax 606 10 03, viimsispa@viimsispa.ee, www. viimsispa.ee. Just 9km from downtown Tallinn, the friendly and ultra-modern Viimsi Spa Hotel offers a full range of services in its health and beauty centres, and its leisure centre includes a 25m swimming pool and well-equipped gym. Use of the pool, saunas and weight room is free for guests, and a wide range of treatment packages is available. Summer guests will love the fact that the beach is just 600m away. Q102 rooms (singles 1090kr, doubles 1290kr, triples 1780kr, suites 2500kr, apartments 2390kr). Extra bed 490kr. HUFLG KDCW hhh Viimsi Spa Randvere tee 11, tel. 606 10 00, www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 22 WHERE TO STAY Mid-range 00, fax 680 66 01, portus@tallinnhotels.ee, www. portus.ee. A fairly new hotel just opposite the Passenger Port’s D-Terminal, Portus is a boon for economical travellers, offering decent rooms and services at a no-nonsense price. The friendly, slightly goofy interior makes it inviting, as do its Café Retro and free internet terminal in the lobby. Q107 rooms (singles 751 - 970kr, twin 829 - 1048kr, family room 1299 - 1518kr). Extra bed 350kr, pets 250kr. H6ULGKDW hhh WHERE TO STAY City Hotel Portus G-3, Uus-Sadama 23, tel. 680 66 Salzburg Pärnu mnt. 555, Laagri, tel. 650 39 90, fax 650 39 00, info@salzburg.ee, www.salzburg.ee. This hotel, located just past the Tallinn border has a style that is Austria über alles. Although there are no mountains or Fräuleins singing in the hills, the rooms are comfortable, affordable and have everything needed for a good night’s rest. The restaurant offers Austrian-themed dishes involving elk and wild boar, however if you’re not content to eat someone else’s trophy, the hotel will arrange hunting trips for guests. Q53 rooms (singles 360 - 560kr, doubles 560 - 800kr, triples 1050kr, suites 1500kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 250kr, caravan 300kr. PH6UIFLGKDCW hhh 630 34 00, susi@susi.ee, www.susi.ee. A popular stop for Finnish bus tours, Susi makes up for its edge-of-town location by offering all the services you could possibly require on site. It has everything from a complete business centre to a trusty hair and beauty salon. The hotel itself is stylish and interestingly decorated with local artwork. Both non-smoking and hypoallergenic rooms are available and suites come with a private sauna. Take tram N°2 or 4 to the end and walk 200m. Q101 rooms (singles 1015kr, doubles 1250kr, triples 1565kr, suites 2275kr). Extra bed 315kr, pets 315kr. PHR6ULGKDW hhh 23 Go Hotel Shnelli B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. 631 01 02, fax 631 01 01, reservations@gohotels.ee, www.gohotels.ee. This starkly modern, seven-storey hotel is attached to Tallinn’s newly revamped railway station, which happens to have a great location just outside the Old Town walls. All rooms are done in a simple, no-nonsense style with a slight railroad theme. Those on the upper floors of the ‘Green Wing’ have beautiful views of Toompea hill. Train buffs should book a room in the slightly cheaper ‘blue wing’ overlooking the tracks. Try the restaurant and day spa. Q124 rooms (doubles 800 - 1350kr, Family rooms 1625kr). Extra bed 329, pets 329kr. JR6ULGKCW 83 01, info@hotelskane.eu, w w w.hotelskane.eu. Restoration has brought the stylish, mint-coloured, 1920s look back to the hallways and common areas of this historic hotel that overlooks the busy train station market area. Rooms, by contrast, are 21st century all the way. A colourful, brightly-lit restaurant adds to the ensemble. Breakfast included in the price. Q38 rooms (singles 690 - 736kr, doubles 850 - 920kr). Extra bed 300kr, pets 150kr. 6LGKW 601 26 00, sales@oruhotel.ee, www.oruhotel.ee. This three-storey hotel located in a leafy area right next to the Song Festival Grounds fits squarely in the modern, international category. Rooms have satellite TV and heated bathroom tiles, and some have balconies. Arrange your free morning sauna ahead of time with reception. Take buses 19, 35, 44 or 55 from the centre to the Oru stop. Breakfast included in the price. Q51 rooms (singles 1400kr, doubles 1600 - 2034kr, suites 2500kr, apartments 3130kr). Extra bed 350kr, pets 200kr. HR6ULGKDW hhh Susi I-6, Peterburi tee 48, tel. 630 32 00/630 33 00, fax Tähetorni Tähetorni 16, tel. 677 91 00/677 91 10, fax Hotel Skåne B-1, Kopli 2c, tel. 667 83 00, fax 667 630 08 10, cityhotel@tallink.ee, hotels.tallink.com. The Tallink ferry line made absolutely no compromises on quality when they installed their sparkling, mirrored hotel in downtown Tallinn. The full-service facility provides all the right touches, from conference rooms and chic restaurant to candies on the pillows. Rooms are done up in a bright, sharp, contemporary style, with the higher priced ‘de Luxe’ doubles providing a lot more space. Q332 rooms (singles 1080 - 2457kr, doubles, family rooms 1471 - 3302kr, suites 1941 - 4710kr). Extra bed 391kr. PHRUFLGKDW hhhh Tallink City Hotel G-3, Laikmaa 5, tel. 630 08 00, fax 677 90 96, tahetorn@neti.ee, www.thotell.ee. Round towers in this brick-building give it a castle-like feel. Friendly, English-speaking service and vast, tastefully decorated rooms and baths win kudos. The location, 9km from the centre, could be a drawback - or a plus if you enjoy the quiet seclusion of pine forests. If you don’t have your own transportation, take express bus N°20 from Pärnu mnt. to Nőva stop and walk up the hill. Q38 rooms (singles 760kr, doubles 960kr, 3 suites 1390kr, apartments 2690kr). Extra bed 210kr, pets 290kr, breakfast 95kr, inner yard parking 60kr. PHR6UILGKDW hhh Oru G-5, Narva mnt. 120b, tel. 603 33 00/603 33 02, fax Uniquestay G/H-2, Toompuiestee 23, tel. 660 07 00/660 07 01, fax 661 61 76, reception@uniquestay.com, www. uniquestay.com. A trend setter with its too-cool style and creature comforts, Uniquestay offers well-outfitted rooms, or ‘chill-outzones’ as they’re called here. Standard rooms come with desktop computer terminals, while the larger ‘Zen’ rooms offer perks like NASA-designed gravity-free chairs and aromatherapy amenities to spoil your inner child. Q77 rooms (singles 1095 - 1800kr, doubles 1200 - 2000kr, triples 1500 - 2500kr, suites 1600 - 2500kr). Extra bed 315kr, pets 315kr. PHR6ULGKDW hhh 26 01, sales@ylemistehotel.ee, www.ylemistehotel.ee. This brilliantly modern hotel next to Tallinn’s quiet airport has so many services you might not want to leave. Aside from the fitness centre, two saunas, European-style restaurant and conference rooms, there’s a comfortable night bar for guests. Rooms on upper floors have a magnificent view of the lake. Despite the airport-side location, it’s a fairly convenient place to stay, since buses leave from the front of the hotel and bring you into town in about 10 minutes. Q128 rooms (singles 1500 - 1750kr, doubles 1750 - 2050kr, suites 2600 - 5300kr). Extra bed 390kr. PHRUIFLGKDW hhhh Tatari 53 I-2, Tatari 53, tel. 640 51 50, fax 640 51 51, info@tatari53.ee, www.tatari53.ee. Quiet, modern, and close to the centre, Tatari 53 is perfect for travellers who just want a new, fully-outfitted room, but don’t need loads of frilly décor or big-hotel-style services. However, they do offer wireless internet connections and you can book one of their allergy-free rooms. Look for the big orange sign behind the building. Despite the address, it’s easiest to find the hotel behind Pärnu mnt. 69. Q36 rooms (singles 960kr, doubles 1200kr). Extra bed 300kr, pets 100kr. 6ULGW Uniquestay Mihkli H-2, Endla 23, tel. 666 48 00/666 48 01, fax 666 48 88, mihkli@uniquestay.com, www. uniquestay.com. Taken over by the Uniquestay group in 2006, the five-storey Mihkli is now fully renovated. All rooms offer flat-screen, internet-connected computers and coffee/ tea-making facilities, and the 12 ‘Zen’ rooms have Jacuzzis. Check out the smart lobby café with its lunch specials. Q85 rooms (singles 1095 - 1800kr, doubles 1200 - 2000kr, triples 1500 - 2500kr, suites 1600 - 2500kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 300kr. PHR6UFLGKDW hhh Poska Villa G-4, Poska 15, tel. 601 36 01, fax 601 37 Ülemiste I-5, Lennujaama tee 2, tel. 603 26 00, fax 603 54, poskavilla@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/poskavilla. This turn-of-the-century villa located on the edge of the beautiful Kadriorg park offers up a chance for some peace and quiet. The rooms are on the small side but very comfortable and certainly full of colour. Home-made breakfast is served by friendly staff and the parking, unlike elsewhere in Tallinn, is free. Q8 rooms (singles 650kr, doubles 760 - 980kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 250kr. PH6LGW 667 88 00, revalinn.tallinn.reception@revalinn.com, www.revalinn.com. The smart-looking structure 300m from the passenger port is home to a sparklingly modern and orderly hotel that caters to visitors who want easy access to both the Old Town and to Helsinki-bound ships. Guests are treated to free wireless internet, and should consider trying out the hotel’s famed soup buffet. Q163 rooms (doubles 610 - 1235kr). Extra bed 390kr, pets 203kr. HR6ULGKW hh Reval Inn Tallinn A-4, Sadama 1, tel. 667 87 00, fax Villa Hortensia C-3, Vene 6, tel. 50 46 113, fax 641 80 17, jaan.parn@mail.ee. The guesthouse in the newly refurbished Old Town ‘Master’s Courtyard’ shares its locale with a gallery, artisans’ workshops and a popular chocolate café. It mostly caters to visiting artists, but anyone with a reservation is welcome. The stylish doubles are like tiny, split-level apartments, each with its own mini-kitchen and loft bedroom, while the suite even has its own balcony. There’s no reception, so phone ahead for keys. Q6 rooms (singles 600kr, doubles 800kr, 2 suites 900 - 2000kr). Extra bed for kids 200kr. No breakfast. JGW October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 24 WHERE TO STAY Apartment rental Short-term apartment rental is a good option for anyone staying more than a few days - you can often get a beautiful, Old Town apartment for the same price you’d pay for a cramped double room in a tourist class hotel. All apartments come fully outfitted with dishes, towels, bed linen, etc. Prices are usually per apartment (not per person) and drop substantially the longer you stay. The prices we’ve listed here are for a single night and are meant for comparison purposes. Check the individual apartments’ websites for full details on their rates. 18, info@apar tment.ee, w w w.apar tment.ee. This industrious, little company offers a wide range of modern apartments, everything from studios to two-level penthouses. Most are within a 10 - 15 minute walk from Old Town, and a majority of them are clustered in the recently renovated building at Pilve 4, where a sauna and Jacuzzi are available. Plusses include internet connections, 24-hour client support and they can arrange for airport pickup too. Q 42 apartments 550 - 2030kr. Extra bed 157kr. Breakfast basket 100kr. RLGD WHERE TO STAY 25 Apartment.ee Pilve 4, tel. 504 54 44, fax 660 58 Budget Alexi Villa Sihi 49, tel. 670 00 96, fax 650 62 21, alexi@ alexi.ee, www.alexi.ee. A few squawking birds and falling pine cones are all there is to break the silence out here in the peaceful Nőmme district, 7km south of Tallinn. The house-type set-up features decent rooms and a breakfast/common room with TV. Take bus N°14 or 18 to the Haava stop. Breakfast included. Q6 rooms (singles 600kr, doubles 700kr, triples 850kr). LGDW fax 626 71 32, info@hotelg9.ee, www.hotelg9.ee. Just a five-minute walk from Old Town, this small hotel on the third floor of an office building is a good pick for location and quality. Although this establishment sometimes feels more like a hostel, the rooms are modern and spotless. Q23 rooms (singles 550 - 690kr, doubles 670 - 790kr, triples 850 - 970kr, suites 1090kr). Extra bed 180kr, breakfast 60kr. R6LGKD hotell@nepihotell.ee, www.nepihotell.ee. Hidden among the houses of the quiet Lilleküla residential district about 2km from the centre, this small but relatively modern hotel features a cheerful, wood interior and friendly service. All rooms come with TV, phone and heated bathroom floors. A computer is available for those who need to check e-mail. Take bus N°17 or 17A to the Koolimaja stop. Q10 rooms (singles 490kr, doubles 590kr, triples 690kr, quads 790kr, suites 690kr, apartments 990kr). Extra bed 100kr, pets 100kr, breakfast 50kr. R6ULGW Hotel G9 G-3, Gonsiori 9, tel. 626 71 30/626 71 31, www.alleeinfo.ee. Completed in 2002, this residential-style structure a few minute’s bus ride from the centre features a row of immaculate rooms decorated with tastefully simple wood furniture. All rooms have their own TV and shower/WC. Take trolleybus 2, 3 or 4 to the Tedre stop. Q13 rooms (singles 550kr, doubles 610kr, triples 720kr, suites 800kr, family room 800kr). Extra bed 200kr, breakfast 80kr. LGW Allee I-1, Tedre 51, tel. 651 38 11, allee@alleeinfo.ee, Nepi I-1, Nepi 10, tel. 655 16 65, fax 655 16 64, nepi- Briston Apartments D-2, Harju 7, tel. 699 96 70, info@ briston-apartments.com, www.briston-apartments.com. All Briston’s apartments are conveniently nestled in the same great, Old Town building, which has its own reception desk and parking lot. The one- and two-room apartments still sparkle from their 2005 construction, though they’re all decorated in a classy, old-fashioned style that gives them warmth. More expensive two-rooms have better views. Q 11 apartments 798 - 1768kr. Extra bed 350kr. JRL Braavo B-3, Aia 20, tel. 699 97 77, fax 641 23 17, braavo@braavo.ee, www.braavo.ee. And now for something completely different! Located in Old Town and set to open in July this bright and colourful lodging is designed with families and youth in mind. The rooms are spacious, cheerful and come at an affordable price. Don’t expect too many extras but if you’re looking for a place to rest your head in a central location this hotel will certainly do. Breakfast is included and if you fancy a swim the Kalev Spa is within spitting distance. Q27 rooms (singles 1020kr, doubles 1095kr, family room 1300kr). Extra bed 285kr. JUFLGDCW 628 22 37, info@cityguesthouse.ee, www.cityguesthouse. ee. Divided among several floors of a hefty, Old Town building, this fairly new guesthouse offers a range of budget choices from respectable singles to spacious, 5-person dorms. Rooms are sparsely furnished with plain, white walls and all but the suites have their shower/WC in the corridor. There are some creature comforts though, like in-room TVs and WiFi in some areas. Management will even arrange airport transfers for 150kr. Q29 rooms (singles 360kr, doubles 550kr, triples 600kr, quads 800kr, suites 800kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 150kr. J6GW City Guesthouse D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 628 22 36, fax OldHouse Guesthouse C-3, Uus 22, tel. 641 14 64, fax 641 16 04, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.ee. This conveniently located guesthouse features clean hall showers and a nice communal dining room with a fireplace and TV set. Guests have full use of the kitchen. Reception is open 24h. Be sure to ask about the private apartments available (see apartment rental). Q6 rooms (singles 490kr, quads 1300kr, place in dorm 250kr, twin room 690kr). Extra bed 200kr. JRIGDW Pirita Convent Guesthouse Merivälja tee 18, tel. 605 50 00, fax 605 50 06, pirita@osss.ee, www. piritaklooster.ee. Administered by the nuns of the Swedish St. Bridgettine order, this modern guesthouse in their Pirita convent naturally has a pious feel. The spacious rooms are decorated in comfortable, subdued whites, and some have windows overlooking the ancient ruins of the old St. Bridgette convent, next door. A common room, with TV and fridge, is available to guests. Q21 rooms (singles 800kr, doubles 1000kr, triples 1300kr, quads 1400kr). ULNG Dzingel Männiku tee 89, tel. 610 52 01, fax 610 52 45, hotell@dzingel.ee, www.dzingel.ee. This biggish hotel in the beautiful Nőmme district is a good budget option for anyone who doesn’t mind a bit of a commute to the centre. Renovations have brought the rooms up-to-date, and the hotel comes fully outfitted with restaurant, sauna, and respectable conference facilities - eight meeting rooms in all. Take bus N°5 to the P Kerese stop. Q280 rooms . (singles 650kr, doubles 870kr, triples 1090kr, suites 1180kr, apartments 1980kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 250kr. PH R6ULGKDW Tallinn In Your Pocket Stroomi Randla 11, tel. 630 42 00/630 44 50, fax 630 45 00, stroomi@stroomi.ee, www.stroomi.ee. Surrounded by Soviet block apartments in a shabby area 3km from the centre, Stroomi’s main advantages are price, and in summer, the nearby beach. Rooms are passable, and extras like saunas, beauty salon, restaurant and bar bring it up a notch. There’s a work station in the lobby where guests can check their e-mail. Take bus No. 40 or 48 from outside the main post office to the Randla stop. Q137 rooms (singles 500 - 550kr, doubles 700 - 950kr, suites 1400kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 150kr. Morning sauna included. HR6LGKDC hh October - November 2008 26 WHERE TO STAY 623 20 55, tel. 53 44 44 64, kullassepa@residence. ee, www.residence.ee. The fantastic Old Town location is the main selling point here - the apartments are right next to Town Hall Square! Furnishings and sizes vary, but most tend towards an old-fashioned look, and all are fully-equipped, washing machine included. A computer can also be added by arrangement, and for an extra charge, breakfast can be brought up from the restaurant downstairs. Q 8 apartments 750 - 1800kr. No breakfast. JR6ILDW WHERE TO STAY Kullassepa Residence C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel./fax NEW 27 Nancy V. Apartments H-2, Roopa 19-10, tel. 501 35 79, nancy@sleepintallinn.eu, www.sleepintallinn. eu. Built in an attractive, 1890s house within easy walking distance from Old Town, these two nicely renovated apartments come fully-loaded - the larger one even has a fireplace! The proprietor lives in the same building, assuring that all your needs are met. Apartments are rented for a minimum of 5 nights. Q 1 apartment 704kr. No breakfast. LNGW Nordlänk Network , tel. 53 002 175/ 40 547 98 98, info@nordlank.ee, www.nordlank.ee. Geared toward Scandinavian clients, or anyone else with similarly high standards, this organization offers accommodation in four newly-renovated 2 or 3-room apartments. All are centrally located (one is in Old Town), and some are furnished in period styles. Helpful services like airport pick-ups, guided tours and car rental can also be arranged. Q 16 apartments, starting at 800kr, no breakfast. NG NovoStay Apartments C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. 644 08 80, fax 644 17 80, info@novostay.com, www.novostay. com. The same folks that run the Red Group also manage these city centre guest apartments. A full 13 of them are smart studios on Jőe tänav, each with a kitchen corner. Others are larger one- and two/bedroom affairs, with full kitchens. Contact them through their office at the above address. Free airport pick-ups and drop-offs. Q 17 apartments from 940kr. Extra bed 390kr. Breakfast not included, in some apartments can be arranged. PRIGDW vitelium@yahoo.co.uk, www.vitelium.ee. These large and elegant luxury apartments are only a few minutes walk from Town Hall Square but just far enough away to provide the right amount of peace and quiet. Each suite is comfortable and stylish blending new design aesthetics with old world details. Every apartment comes fully furnished with a kitchen, flat screen TV, washing machine and WIFI. We quite liked the antique-quirkiness of the upper floor apartments best, however, because of the climb they are probably best left for those without a pacemaker. Q (8 apartments 1260 - 2623kr). Breakfast not included. PTJW Pikk 49 Residence B-3, Pikk 49, tel. 53 05 44 54, Rasastra Apartments C-4, Mere pst. 4, tel./fax 661 62 91, rasastra@online.ee, www.bedbreakfast.ee. The same people who arrange bed and breakfast-style homestays also offer several centrally located apartments which can be rented anywhere from a few days to six months. All apartments are fully equipped with kitchens and TVs. Q 7 apartments 800-2500kr. LNG RED Group Apartments C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. 644 08 80, fax 644 17 80, info@redgroup.ee, www.redgroup.ee. The Red Group’s apartments are all fully renovated and mostly in Old Town, making this option a good choice for location, quality and price. Interiors have a warm look, and the staff are always ready to help guests out with information and arrange other services like airport pick-ups and drop-offs. Breakfast isn’t included in the price, but an Old Town café is never far. Available for medium and long-term rentals also. Q 17 apartments from 940kr. Extra bed 390kr. PJRIGDW Romeo Family Apartments D-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, 4th floor, apt 38, code 38, tel. 644 42 55, fax 660 95 88, info@romeofamily.ee, booking@romeofamily.ee, www. romeofamily.ee. This family run establishment offers the same level of quality and personalised service as many of the luxury hotels in town. Apart from very convenient (mostly Old Town) locations, each of these 1-4 room apartments has fully-outfitted kitchens, bathrooms, etc. Some have internet connections. Most apartments are located in the same building. If you’d rather just have a room, these are available as well. Q Rooms from 600kr. Apartments from 700kr. Extra bed 250kr. Breakfast at apartments 75kr. JRLGW tel. 610 87 80/524 80 99, fax 610 87 90, erel@erel. ee, www.erel.ee. This large, highly experienced firm manages serviced apartments concentrated in three Old Town buildings, including one on Town Hall Square and another in a marvellously restored medieval house on Rataskaevu. Furnishing in these 2 - 8-person apartments is mainly Scandinavian and always tasteful. Guests can stay anywhere from one day to one year, but rates are better the longer the contract. The company will even pick you up at the airport. Prior booking by credit card is required. Q 33 apartments: standard class 1080 - 2200kr, business class 1500 - 3700kr. Extra bed 400kr. No breakfast. JR6GDW Erel Apartments & Residences H-3, Tartu mnt. 14, Sakala Residence E-3, Sakala 16, tel. 610 87 80/524 Gorent Apartments G-3, Jõe 7, tel. 666 11 68, fax 666 11 69, info@gorent.ee, www.gorent.ee. This rental company is offering several apartments in Old Town as well as a few in another exciting location - overlooking Pirita Beach! Styles differ, but all come with the latest fixtures and appliances. Airport pick-up is included in the price, and for an extra 156kr/night, they’ll leave breakfast in your fridge. Q 12 apartments 860 - 3150kr. JR6UGDW OldHouse Apartments C-3, Uus 22, tel. 641 14 64, fax 641 16 04, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.ee. In addition to its guesthouse, OldHouse also offers a few two-, three-, four- and 6-person apartments ranging from small affairs with antique furniture to a modern split-level complete with living room and fireplace. All are located near the guesthouse itself, with its hard-to-beat Old Town location. Q 16 apartments 1100 - 3900kr. Extra bed 200kr. JILDW 80 99, fax 610 87 90, info@sakalaresidence.ee, www. sakalaresidence.ee. A grand, white edifice just outside Old Town is home to the state-of-the art apartments that make up Sakala Residence. Each of the spacious 2- 3- or 4-room apartments - some with saunas and balconies - comes with a kitchen and all the accoutrements. Ask for a 5th-floor room with a sea view. Management provide complimentary city transfer when you arrive. Q 11 apartments: standard class 1190 - 2200kr, business class 2300-3700kr. Extra bed 400. No breakfast. R6LGDW Sleep smarts Given the increasingly high standards of service in Tallinn’s hospitality industry, it’s very likely that your hotel receptionist speaks better English than you do. Still, your attempts to pronounce these Estonain phrases will no doubt amuse him or her to no end. Hotel Room Breakfast Double Bed Parking lot hotell numbrituba hommikusöök kahene voodi parkla 71 14, info@ites.ee, www.ites.ee. Geared towards travellers staying from one night to several months, this collection of apartments around the Old Town and centre offers fully equipped apartments, most with satellite TV and internet access. Some even have saunas, so ask when you reserve. Car rental service also available. Q 15 apartments from 800kr. JRD Ites Apartments D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 06 37/56 21 www.inyourpocket.com Tallinn In Your Pocket Do you have a single room/double room? Kas Teil on üheseid/kaheseid tubasid? Can I pay by credit card? Kas ma saan krediitkaardiga maksta? What time do you serve breakfast? Mis kell on hommikusöök? Do you speak English? Kas Te räägite inglise keelt? October - November 2008 28 WHERE TO STAY Hostels The Estonian Youth Hostel Association’s website is www.hostels.ee. fax 620 22 76, info@academichostel.com, www.academichostel.com. A large hostel 5km from the city centre situated on the Tallinn Technical University campus grounds, offering brand new rooms for one or two persons (kitchen, dining room and bathroom shared between every two) and all surrounded by a quiet and peaceful forest. Perks include free parking, laundry facilities and internet connections in some rooms. Take trolleybus N°3 from Vabaduse väljak to the Keemia stop. Q108 rooms (doubles 525kr). Extra bed 250kr, pets 100kr, breakfast 45kr. R6W citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee. Though better known for its bike tours, City Bike also runs a tiny hostel in Old Town that’s suitable for backpacker types who aren’t fussed about tidiness. There’s a guest kitchen and plenty of bike parking. Q3 rooms (singles 250 - 300kr, doubles 500 - 600kr, quads 800 - 1000kr). Extra bed 150kr. No Breakfast. JRGW WHERE TO STAY Threadbare lodgings Dorell G-4, Karu 39, tel. 666 43 33, fax 666 43 34, info@dorell.ee, www.dorell.ee. A quiet, friendly hotel in a blockhouse not far from the centre or the harbour. The higher priced rooms have their own shower and WC, while others share with a few neighbours. All rooms have TV and phone. Enter through a courtyard off Narva mnt. Q31 rooms (singles 550 - 700kr, doubles 600 800kr, suits 1500kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 100 - 200kr. Breakfast included. LH6DW 29 Rooms in private homes Rasastra Bed & Breakfast C-4, Mere pst. 4, tel./ fax 661 62 91, rasastra@online.ee, www.bedbreakfast.ee. Do you want to live like real, live Estonians? Not actually a Bed and Breakfast, Rasastra is an agency that sets up accommodation in private homes in Tallinn, Tartu, Pärnu and other cities throughout the Baltics. Guests who want the use of a kitchen should request it when reserving. Q30 rooms (singles 325kr, doubles 550kr, triples 700kr). Extra bed 200kr, pets 100kr, breakfast 50kr. 6LNG Academic Hostel Akadeemia tee 11, tel. 620 22 75, NEW City Bike Hostel B-3, Uus 33, tel. 511 18 19, hostel@ Euphoria E-2, Roosikrantsi 4, tel. 58 37 36 02, info@ traveller.ee, www.hostelworld.com. This hostel-esque happening, brought to you by the good folks over at the ‘Hostel With No Name’, is one of the larger places in town. It’s kind of a unique concept that centres around four apartments on different floors and a large common room where everyone can hang out, play the guitar, bang on bongos or if the spirit moves you, maybe even paint your own mural on the wall. Each floor has its own kitchen and toilet, one of them even has a bath! Light breakfast included. Q Prices 220 - 550kr/person. RLEW Eurohostel C-2, Nunne 2, tel./fax 644 77 88, info@ eurohostel.ee, www.eurohostel.ee. Once you get past the weird smell on the staircase, the inside of this friendly, Old Town hostel is fresh as a daisy, and you couldn’t ask for a better location. Furnishings are simple, but are new and stylishly wooden, and floors are carpeted. Other than the doubles, all rooms have bunks with 3 to 8 beds per room. Guest kitchen. Showers, WC shared. Q doubles 500kr, triples 600kr, dorm rooms 200kr/person. Extra bed 150kr. No breakfast. JN waldi)/640 04 05, fax 640 04 04, info@grandhostel. ee, www.grandhostel.ee. Although technically a hostel by Estonian standards, the Grand reminds more of an upscalebudget hotel, offering a wide range of services including sauna, pool and beauty parlour. The neat and modern rooms are decorated with a quirky Russian aesthetic and are comfortable to say the least. You will have to pay extra to have a WC and shower in-room though. Q (singles 300 - 400kr, doubles 600 - 800kr, triples 300 - 1200kr, Lux). THRULDCW NEW Grand Hostel G-4, Narva mnt. 24 (corner of Kreutz- Tallinn Backpackers B-3, Olevimägi 11-1, tel. 644 02 98, tallinnbackpackers@gmail.com, www.tallinnbackpackers.com. Hands down this hostel is Tallinn’s best for that feeling of international traveller camaraderie. Basically a collection of open bunk rooms, it’s cheap, central and friendly, and the foreign backpacker who staff it organise video screenings and the occasional spontaneous pub visits. Free sauna, kitchen, computer and WiFi. Laundry for a fee. Q 34 dorm beds 180 - 275kr/bed. Extra bed 150kr. No breakfast. JRIGW Vana Tom C/D-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel./fax 631 32 52, hos- Viru Backpackers C-3, Viru 5-2, tel. 644 60 50, vi- hostelworld.com. Located in a former monastery building (hence the name), the Monks bunk consists of several dorm-style rooms with bunk-beds to crash on. Certainly a bit more community oriented than some places, the ‘Bunk’ does however pride itself in being a place where you can get some peace and quiet - at least as much privacy as you can get in a room filled with snoring strangers. Q ( 8 Bed dorm, 6 bed dorm). JRIDW Monks Bunk C-3, Müürivahe 33, tel. 644 08 18, www. tel@hostel.ee, www.hostel.ee. Just ignore the fact that it has a strip club above it and a sex shop below. Smack dab in the middle of Old Town, Vana Tom a friendly place, though it’s been getting grungy over the years. Various private and dorm rooms available, and there’s even a kitchen for guests’ use. Q14 rooms (doubles 700kr, triples 900kr, quads 1200kr, place in dorm 235 - 245kr, 6-bed private room 1500kr). Extra bed 235kr. Breakfast for groups upon prior notice. JRGW rubackpackers@gmail.com, www.tallinnbackpackers. com. Tallinn Backpackers’ smaller Old Town facility has the same fun, backpacker-run feel as its main hostel, but it’s built in a former office space where rooms offer more privacy. Computer, WiFi, kitchen and laundry are available, and guests are welcome to visit the Olevimägi location to groove with the folks there. Q7 rooms (singles 375 - 400kr, doubles 650 - 800kr, triples 825 - 900kr, quads 1000 - 1100kr, apartments 800 - 1000kr). Extra bed 150kr. No breakfast. JRGW OldHouse Hostel B-3, Uus 26, tel. 641 12 81, fax 641 16 04, info@oldhouse.ee, www.oldhouse.ee. Bright, fluffy rooms make this newly renovated, Old Town establishment almost too nice to be called a hostel. Common areas like the hallways, TV room and guest kitchen are just as spiffy. Q Reception open 24hrs. 12 rooms (singles 550kr, triples 975kr, quads 1300kr, place in dorm 250kr, twin room 690kr). Extra bed 200kr. Breakfast 45kr. . JRLNGW Old Town Alur B-2, Lai 20, tel./fax 646 62 10, www. alur.ee. If you’re just looking for a bed in Old Town, the Alur is a good choice. It’s not as decked out with facilities as some other hostels, but rooms are in good shape (renovated in 2006), staff are friendly there’s a usable kitchen and common room in the cellar. Q11 rooms (singles 350kr, doubles 590kr, triples 795kr, quads 900kr, place in dorm 165 - 185kr). No breakfast. JHRUGW Old Town Backpackers C-3, Uus 14, tel. 57 42 69 61, uus14tallinn@hotmail.com. Owners insist it’s ‘not for tourists, only for travellers’, so put on your best hippy-backpacker attitude if you plan to stay here. The centrally-located hostel on Aia is basically ten bunks and some sofas crammed into two rooms, with a huge guest kitchen, sauna, laundry, internet-connected computer. Q 10 beds 225kr/person, 200kr with HI card. Linen 25kr. JD www.inyourpocket.com Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 30 RESTAURANTS Tallinn’s tourist boom has been a mixed blessing for the local dining scene. On one hand, it seems there are more decent, high-quality restaurants and cafés opening up every month. On the other hand, there are also more tourist traps taking advantage of the feeding frenzy - Viru street and Town Hall Square are particularly notorious in this regard. For a bit of guidance in the budget area, we’ve listed the average price of a main course (right after the opening hours). Service is nearly always English-speaking and foreign-language menus are the rule, although the words are not always spelled correctly. VAT (18%) is always included and service is never added to the bill. RESTAURANTS Symbol key J Old Town location T Child friendly E Live music X Smoking area I Fireplace N Payment in cash only U Facilities for disabled 6 Pets allowed S Take away W WiFi connection L Parking available 31 Menu decoder salmon Eelroad starters Lõhe Hapukapsas sauerkraut Magustoidud desserts Jäätis ice cream Pannkoogid pancakes duck Juust cheese Pardiliha carrot Kala fish Porgand main courses Kalkun turkey Praed rice Kana chicken Riis salads Kartulid potatoes Salatid pork Kaste sauce Sealiha mushrooms Köögiviljad vegetables Seened ham Kurk cucumber Sink soups Leib bread Supid snacks Liha meat Suupisted Lisandid side orders Taimetoidud vegetarian Australian info@lostcontinent.ee, www.lostcontinent.ee. During a recent and much-needed update, management of this Aussiestyle pub finally got rid of the inane and predictable ‘Wombat X-ing’ kitsch and turned the place into a kind of lounge. You can still order ‘Kangaroo stick with fruit chutney’ if you dare. Most of the menu now caters to more mainstream tastes, offering fondues and pastas, as well as some cheap options aimed at students from the nearby university. Table service doesn’t seem to work, so you’ll have to join the queue at the bar. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Wed 11:30 - 24:00, Thu 11:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 02:00. (105kr). TEW The Lost Continent G-4, Narva mnt. 19, tel. 662 36 65, African African Kitchen B-3, Uus 34, tel. 644 25 55, info@ africankitchen.ee, www.africankitchen.ee. This highly funky African-themed establishment is the place to go for affordable, exotic meals and a trendy, lounge-like atmosphere. Traditional and contemporary cuisine from the continent is served in hip, colourful surroundings. Service slows considerably when crowded. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (150kr). JLEDS Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina B-3, Pikk 43, tel. 631 17 55, texas@texas.ee, www.texas.ee. Sawdust-covered floors, beer ads, steer horns - this bar screams ‘Texas’ so loud you might think you’ve walked into one of those old roadhouse movies. Thankfully the ambience is more rock and blues than twangy two-step. The long menu is mostly U.S. -style Tex-Mex (nachos, quesadillas, etc) with other things like Texas wings and potato salad thrown in. Not all dishes hit their mark, but enough do to make this a decent destination for homesick Yanks. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (125kr). TJ6ESW Balkan Admiral G-3, Lootsi 15, tel. 662 37 77, admiral@estpak. ee, www.aurulaev-admiral.ee. A meal at Admiral, a smart restaurant built into an old stream ship, has to be of the most unforgettable dining experiences in town. The service and atmosphere here harken back to times when a luxury sea voyage was the height of class. While the impressive view of Tallinn harbour through the portholes is unquestionably 100% Estonian, the menu here is actually Balkan, with Serbian beef and other lamb and fish dishes from that region. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (200kr). TLXS Argentinian Argentiina E-2, Pärnu mnt. 19, tel. 660 51 77, info@ argentiina.ee, www.argentiina.ee. Believe it or not, they actually played ‘Don’t cry for me Argentina’ when we were here, but that’s not why we recommend the place. The truth is it’s actually a well-established, popular and slightly swank cellar restaurant where South American cooks grill slabs of steak and fish right in the centre of the dining room. The formalish look of the place is offset by some very quirky Mexican-style wall décor, as well as a lovably kitschy floor show on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (220kr). ES American Mack Bar-B-Que H-4, Tartu mnt. 63, tel. 601 09 69, table@americanfood.ee, www.americanfood.ee. In terms of American-style atmosphere and service, it’s hard to get any more authentic than Mack. Designers of this combination sports bar/family-style restaurant went all the way, with red, vinyl booths, bottles of Heinz catsup, piped-in 80s hits and ‘no smoking’ signs in Spanish. Unfortunately the food quality doesn’t really live up to expectations. The long menu includes nachos, pizza, burgers and milkshakes, but barbecued meats are the speciality. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (170kr). TX T.G.I. Friday’s C-3, Aia 3, tel. 627 12 42, tgifridays@ rosinter.ee, www.rosinter.ee. We have to congratulate the team for duplicating the level of service and overall feel of this well-known American, family-style chain, even if some of the waitresses are clearly uncomfortable wearing their silly hats. Casual fare like steaks, burgers, pastas and fajitas makes up the menu, and the large portions probably justify the prices, which are slightly higher than elsewhere. Ask for your beer in a frosted glass! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (160kr). TJU Buenos Aires G-3, Narva mnt. 5, tel. 664 04 13, reser- vation@buenosaires.ee, www.buenosaires.ee. Perched up on the second floor of the swank new Foorum shopping centre, the interior of the Argentinian restaurant Buenos Aires, is a decorator’s paradise. Unlike some ethnic restaurants in town, they even have a native chef who prepares dishes just like they do back in the old country. The food was caliente as was the service. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (230kr). E Asian Asian Aroma H-2, Süda 1, tel. 627 89 77/53 31 15 63, asianaroma@hot.ee, www.asianaroma.ee. This fastfood café was originally billed as pan-Asian, but just about everything on the menu seems to be Chinese, or at least Chinese-like. The spring rolls were great, and the sweet and sour fish was, well... let’s say edible, though uninspired. On the plus side, the service is actually fast and friendly. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (90kr). S Restaurant tips Although the food quality in Tallinn has gone way up over the past few years, the service quality still lags behind the rest of the civilised world. You’ll still have to ask for most of those little extras like butter with your rolls and fresh ground pepper when you can clearly see the giant pepper grinder from the corner of your eye. Another thing that has become inevitable is the excruciatingly long wait for the cheque at the end of the meal, even when you’ve clearly stated that you are finished. We’ve been trying for some time to start some sort of a ‘mini cultural revolution’ in this regard, but until things change we suggest you just be upfront with the server and demand your bill when you get the chance. That being said, please tip your server if they are the least bit friendly or attentive, after all, they are among the lowest wage earners in the country. Approximately 10% is fairly standard, we’ll leave it up to you. Everest Kathmandu H-3, Liivalaia 19, tel. 644 20 68, everestkathmandu@hot.ee, www.kathmandu.ee. Set up like a casual, lunch café, this nominally Nepalese establishment is a contrast in styles, meaning the piped-in monks’ chanting clashes a bit with the sexy Fashion TV models strutting on the corner set. The menu is divided into Indian and Chinese sections, and the food was passable. Be warned that if you opt to try the chef’s own sauce, you’ll want to suck on a fire extinguisher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (95kr). S Chedi B-3, Sulevimägi 1, tel. 646 16 76, chedi@chedi.ee, www.chedi.ee. Call it a swank, upscale restaurant with an Asian menu, or an Asian restaurant done up to the nines. In either case, what you’ll get at Chedi is a sleek, novel dining experience that fuses East Asian and Western trends. This is where Thai Pike Perch meets lamb chop in chocolate sauce, and the quality is always top-notch. The only hiccup here is the service, which can at times be sluggish. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (250kr). J Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 32 RESTAURANTS Brazilian bossanova.ee, www.bossanova.ee. Sitting right on Town Hall Square, this is a dark and swank establishment with two separate menus and a pet shark named Eve. An army of staff (probably too many) buzzes about the place helping diners choose from the Bossanova Brazilian menu of mainly meats, and the Corallo menu, which offers Italian fish dishes. Watch for live music Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (250kr). JUEXSW 17, restoran@uniquestay.com, www.ipanemarodizio.ee. Perfect for groups or individuals looking for a unique experience, the Ipanema features a Brazilian-style buffet loaded with authentic and fresh dishes. Passadors (meat carvers) actually go from table to table and slice off as much meat as you can handle. We suggest you come on an empty stomach if you want the full experience. They also have a scaled down lunch rodizio for 95kr between 12:00 and 15:00. Live music show programme on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (295kr). TUILESW RESTAURANTS Chinese Golden Dragon B-2/3, Pikk 37, tel. 631 35 06, golden.dragon@mail.ee, www.goldendragon.ee. You can basically stop reading here, Chinese in Tallinn doesn’t get better than this. A long-time favourite among Tallinn’s experienced diners, this little cellar restaurant consistently delivers mouth-wateringly good fare and portions of spring rolls big enough to feed you and 1.3 billion of your closest friends. Be warned though that the service, while always friendly, can slow to a crawl when things get busy. Come by for the economical weekday lunch special. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (110kr). JS 33 Bossanova/Corallo C-2, Kinga 1, tel. 644 65 05, info@ coming in off the busy street outside. Because the food is fairly decent, it’s developed its share of regulars. If you want spice, be sure to tell the cook. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (85kr). SW Ipanema Rodizio H-2, Endla 23, tel. 666 48 06/666 48 China Inn C-3, Viru 9, tel. 648 45 85. Located smack dab in the middle of Viru street, this 100% Chinese cellar-restaurant has all the makings of a tourist trap, but isn’t. The food is first rate, and certainly prepared from authentic recipes. Some of the dishes are a little on the expensive side, but you can still fill your belly and afford to have drinks with friends later. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. J Jasmine E/2, Tatari 1, tel. 660 18 42, post@jasmine. ee, www.jasmine.ee. The décor here certainly is nice, from the elaborate Oriental paintings to the aquarium, though why there’s an exercise bike in the corner is anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s a subtle hint about calorie intake? Our experience here was pleasant enough, but the food didn’t rise above average. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (110kr). TUSW info@interland.ee, www.interland.ee. Mainly catering to the local lunch crowd, this is a simple, brick-lined, café-like affair serving mainly Chinese and a bit of Indian cuisine to those Peking C-3, Müürivahe 52, tel. 51 91 66 16/644 05 71, balty2003@hotmail.com, w w w.peking.ee. One of the oldest restaurants of its kind in town, Peking, which is actually owned and run by the Chinese, offers a very interesting and creative menu featuring an Aphrodisiac selection that includes ‘Fried bull eggs with sauce’, among other supposed sexual enhancing delicacies. The atmosphere is a little tacky, albeit not surprising for a restaurant of the genre. It was a little too quiet there for our tastes, however the food was decently priced and well prepared. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (120kr). J6ILS Say cheese! St. Michael Juusturestoran (St. Michael Cheese Restaurant) B-2, Nunne 14, tel. 627 48 45/627 48 04, restoran@imperial.ee, www. juusturestoran.ee. Monks and cheese - always an unbeatable combination. The Imperial Hotel building was once part of the St. Michael Nunnery, so naturally waiters in monks’ garb preside over its smart, medieval style restaurant. Choose from cheesy mains such as tournedos with Roquefort, but be warned though that they’re on the heavy side. There’s also a cheese-free menu for the lactose wary. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. (300kr). TJULESW Caucasian Hearty cuisine from Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan became popular here during Soviet times and continues to leave its mark on the local culinary scene. Bakuu D-2, Harju 7/9, tel. 699 96 80, info@bakuu.ee, www.bakuu.ee. The white-washed interior of this Azerbaijani restaurant is blindlingy spartan, despite a lone cityscape painting and a trickling fountain in back. If you don’t mind blotchy service, you can still come here for the shashlyk (shish kebab) and the dolma, which are competently done. If you order tea it’ll come in a huge, clay pot. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (125kr). TJ6SW Kathmandu Hill H-2, Pärnu mnt. 36, tel. 631 42 12, Irakli E-2, Pärnu mnt. 16, tel. 631 32 15. Essentially a typical Russian-style dive bar, Irakli has a small menu that lacks the Georgian favourites we’ve come to know and love. It does, however, offer chicken satsivi (roast with walnut sauce), something called ‘meat with French’ and Leffe beer from Belgium. Our omelette was decent. Still, the best thing about this place may be the lamps. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. (100kr). Must Lammas C-3, Sauna 2, tel. 644 20 31, restoran@ mustlammas.ee, www.mustlammas.ee. Serving up a chic, gourmet take on Georgian cuisine - elsewhere a relatively casual affair - Black Sheep certainly stands out in the herd. Not that anyone’s complaining. The restaurant’s sharp interior is worthy of a design catalogue, and the excellent trout with raisins, plums and estragon we had was far more exciting than anything you’d find at the average shashlyk (kebab) stand. Rest assured though that shashlyk and other Georgian favourites are available here too. Lightning-quick service. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00. (150kr). TJ6S Pirosmani Üliőpilaste tee 1, Nőmme district, tel. 639 32 46, info@pirosmani.ee, www.pirosmani.ee. This one is way off the map, but it’s the only place we’ve found that makes Georgian food like they do in Georgia. The restaurant’s cosy, country tavern interior gives it a kind of downmarket authenticity, and if you can’t decipher the menu, just look at the pictures. In summer there is also an outside seating area with a small kids’ playground. In the Nőmme suburb, take trolleybus N°3 about 30 minutes to the Ehitajate tee stop, then go left and pass the university. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (98kr). L Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 34 RESTAURANTS Estonian o.ee, www.restoran-o.ee. Despite being named for one of Estonia’s hardest-to-pronounce vowels, Ö is well worth seeking out. The atmosphere of stylish, charcoal-coloured furniture, with dove-wing chandeliers overhead add an artistic touch. The equally fashionable menu, prepared by one of Estonia’s most decorated chefs, is inventive and modern with emphasis on the use of local ingredients. Here you can find mouth-watering moose dishes, home-made reductions and fresh seasonal fish. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. In September 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (350kr). L RESTAURANTS French Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. 646 44 44, bonaparte@ bonaparte.ee, www.bonaparte.ee. You’ll be hard pressed to find a more elegant locale for French cuisine. Set in an amazingly restored 17th-century merchant’s house, Bonaparte is a high-class affair all the way, from the complimentary elk carpaccio to the wine and cheese cellar. The portions seem small though - maybe it was the huge plates. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (280kr). TJILW hvik@cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. This swanky establishment’s 1930’s style interior will have you dancing the Charleston. The cuisine certainly has a French bent to it, and the romantic ambience makes this a great choice for a date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (130kr). TJ6UESW 35 Ö B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. 661 61 50, restoran@restoran- C’est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. 641 80 48, ko- Eesti Maja E-4, Lauteri 1, tel. 645 52 52/699 88 08, eneken@eestimaja.ee, viido@eestimaja.ee, www. eestimaja.ee. In homage to the Estonian House around the world where émigré Estonians meet to feel close to their homeland, the publisher of Global Estonian magazine opened this casual, family style restaurant, made even more inviting by the friendly, stuffed dolls that inhabit each room. The menu is filled with Estonian favourites like marinated eel, sauerkraut stew with pork, blood sausage and, of course omelettes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (120kr). 6ESW kaerajaan@kaerajaan.ee, www.kaerajaan.ee. Named after a popular national folk dance, this is an Estonian-themed restaurant with a modern twist. You won’t find any of the traditional, national dishes on the menu, however you will be pleased to discover many Estonian ingredients sporting an haute cuisine style. The prices, as expected, given the location and the quality, are a little lofty, but you will find a reasonable lunch menu that changes weekly. Check out the upstairs toilet for a truly architectural experience. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (265kr). JW Kaerajaan C-2, Raekoja plats 17, tel. 615 54 00, Le Château B-2, Lai 19, tel. 665 09 28, restoran@ chateau.ee, www.chateau.ee. Elaborately done up in the style of old France (think musketeers, etc), Le Château is one of Tallinn’s best-kept secrets. Essentially it’s an elegant, candle-lit cellar full of heavy, wooden furniture and staff in 16th-century French garb. The real treat here though is the food - particularly the high-value lunch specials. If you come for dinner, be sure to try the soup, served in an enormous terrine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (165kr). JL and other tourists who have no concept of the local prices tend to flock to this apparantly French place on the way up to Toompea. We don’t think that the quality and expense of this café-style restaurant are a great match, although you might enjoy the airy interior and the picture perfect patio. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. J Pika Jala C-1, Pikk jalg 16, tel. 644 13 44. Finns, Swedes Kuldse Notsu Kőrts C-2, , tel. 628 65 67, knk@ schlossle-hotels.com, www.notsu.ee. Heaven for porklovers, at the Golden Piglet Inn the cooks even put bacon in the bread! This country-style Estonian restaurant undeniably caters to the tourist crowd, but we really liked the bright, folkart motif. The menu is much more imaginative than the heavy food, offering old witch’s mushroom soup and something called ‘big pig head cheese.’ Despite the carnivorous theme, a selection of vegetarian dishes is available for those herbivores out there. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (260kr). TJIES 90 80/626 90 99, vanaema.juures@mail.ee. True to its name, Grandma’s Place treats its guests to a warm welcome and a cosy dining room filled with antiques. Take heart that there’s no sign of the big, bad wolf here, though wild boar is occasionally on the menu. Elk roast is a regular feature and the lamb with bleu cheese comes highly recommended. Reservations are a good idea for Friday and Saturday evenings. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (150kr). TJS German Baieri Kelder E-2, Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. 640 00 45, www.stbarbara.ee. All the classic beer-hall elements are presented in the Hotel St. Barbara’s cellar restaurant. It’s got the vaulted stone ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and the obligatory, outrageously happy, piped-in schlager music. The brief menu offers things like Bavarian hunter sausages and Vienna schnitzel. Our pike perch came decently peppery, but was served with less-than-cohesive potato dumplings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (135kr). TILSW beerhouse.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. In keeping with its beer-drinking theme, the menu at Tallinn’s only microbrewery lists six different kinds of sausages (pizza also available). The real reason to stop in though is the beer-hall ambience and the unpasteurised, home-made brew, which comes in seven varieties. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (210kr). TJEXW Vanaema Juures C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. 626 Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. 644 22 22, info@ Wirulane B-3, Pikk 41, tel. 646 43 11, wirulane@hot.ee, www.wirulane.ee. One of the biggest disappointments in a long time, the Wirulane’s 1930s-style décor suggests a nice romantic location to sip on a glass of wine while enjoying some home-style Estonian food. This was not to be the case. The overpriced and boring dishes left a bad taste in our mouths and the small portions were lack-lustre and overwhelmed by previously frozen vegetables. If you do happen to come here we suggest you stick to beer and a snack. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (210kr). J Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 36 RESTAURANTS Greek Artemis Souvlaki B-3, Pikk 35, tel. 644 11 14, info@ artemis.ee, www.artemis.ee. Having Greek owners, who actually cook the food, puts Artemis far, far above the other ‘Greek’ restaurants in town. This is a tiny, but well-appointed restaurant where each table is named after an island, and plastic grapes dangle from the ceiling. Authentic items like moussaka, pasticcio and several feta dishes make up the menu. The meat platter was fantastic; in fact our mouths are still watering. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (160kr). JI syrtaki@hot.ee, www.syrtaki.ee/tavern. One of the very few eating establishments located on Toompea, this little Greek Tavern serves up hearty, meat and onion-laden dishes even Zorba could appreciate. Expect to find a plethora of Greek favourites prepared according to traditional recipes. Be warned though that portions here are rather large and the meals meant for two could almost feed an army. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (150kr). J RESTAURANTS International Aed C-2, Rataskaevu 8, tel. 626 90 88, aed@vonkrahl. ee, www.restoranaed.ee. It calls itself the ‘Embassy of Pure Food’, but Garden is much more than just a place with a healthy menu. This is a highly charming establishment filled with funny old lamps, leafy plantlife, and abstract paintings that actually move and change. Instead of the typical pre-meal rolls, you can opt for rice crackers with goat butter, and choose from mains that involve pumpkin and other intriguing additions. Wonderful service. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (230kr). J 37 Syrtaki Taverna C-1, Piiskopi 1, tel. 644 60 76, Clazz C-2, Vana Turg 2, tel. 627 90 22, clazz@clazz. ee, www.clazz.ee. Occupying a prime, Old Town location, Clazz falls somewhere between trendy restaurant and a plush lounge bar with live music on most nights. Actually, the sprawling establishment has plenty of room to be both. The menu offers a medley of international favourites with an emphasis on jazzy dishes you’d expect to find only in the ‘Dirty South’. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. (170kr). J6UEW Indian Café VS E-2, Pärnu mnt. 28, tel. 627 26 27, info@ cafevs.ee, www.cafevs.ee. After all these years Cafe VS is still a popular, cutting-edge bar rather than a traditional Indian restaurant. Nevertheless this is where Tallinn’s expats, Indians included, end up when they crave a good Indian meal. A good pick for fantastic Tandoori cuisine without the formality (and price) of other Indian venues. The main courses can be quite large, but they do offer a half-portion not listed on the menu. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (120kr). SW Dominic C-3, Vene 10, tel. 641 04 00, dominic@ restoran.ee, www.restoran.ee. The front room is a pricey, black and white café that serves up a small selection of tapas, soups, omelettes and the like. Our pasta was tasty, albeit of dietary proportions. In back is a very formal restaurant with a killer wine selection. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (275kr). J6ESW Grand Tallinn G-2, Toompuiestee 27, tel. 667 71 05, hotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Meriton Grand Hotel Tallinn’s restaurant is known for its quality and innovative international cuisine, but where it really shines is its respectable weekday lunch buffet, 12:00 - 15:00, which is among the best in Tallinn. While here, be sure to check out the old photos and Soviet-era menus posted in the walls! QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. (275kr). JULW Hopner C-2/3, Vanaturu kael 3, tel. 641 83 58, restoran@ hopner.ee, www.hopner.ee. Given the tiny sign, it’s easy to walk right by this little cellar pub just off Town Hall Square, and based on our experience, we’d recommend you do just that. The genuinely nice wooden barrel décor doesn’t quite make up for the slightly tired food or the tourist-trap-pricing. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (340kr). TJ Elevant C-2/3, Vene 5, tel. 631 31 32, elevant@elevant. ee, www.elevant.ee. This is an exceptional Old Town alternative to medieval theme restaurants. Beautiful décor from the entry foyer’s antique wrought iron staircase to the sparse earthy sheik furnishings make it a place to linger over your meal. The sophisticated East meets West style also extends to the menu, offering a wide selection of innovative, carefully prepared Indian and fusion dishes. Adventurous diners should pay particular attention to the meat selection. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (150kr). TJIS 66, inf o@hookah-house.ee, w w w.hookah-house. ee. Hookah House is an ultra-cool venue and a great place to smoke water pipes during the evening. In the day time it concentrates on its other role as an Indian restaurant, this one with a long list of choices. Sadly, we are unimpressed by what comes out of the kitchen here, and recommend sticking to drinks and smokes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. (135kr). TXSW maharaja.ee, maharaja.ee. Of all the Indian restaurants in Tallinn, this old favourite on Town Hall Square is the most formal and the most involved - someone even greets you at the door and fusses over you until you’re seated. The food here is absolutely amazing, so if you don’t mind the fact that an order of rice here costs the same as a full meal elsewhere, it’s a fine choice. Every detail here is authentic, from the large likeness of Vishnu down to the mango chutney. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (215kr). JS Hookah House E-2, Roosikrantsi 3, tel. 644 22 House C-2, Rataskaevu 16, tel. 641 19 00/56 27 87 44, info@house.ee, www.house.ee. Come marvel at this 14th-century house tastefully remodelled to create a sense of 21st-century chic, or better still, just come to fill your face. House is a high-quality, albeit pricey, affair where European dishes like Norwegian salmon beef tenderloin with foie gras in Calvados sauce are served up by staff who know how to take care of you. Sushi lovers should head straight to the separate ‘Sushihouse’ in the cellar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (250kr). TJXSW Hungarian Kapten Tenkeš E-2, Pärnu mnt. 30, tel. 644 56 30, restoran@kaptentenkes.ee, www.kaptentenkes.ee. An old-time Tallinn favourite, this friendly, little restaurant sports wooden tables, garlic wreaths and lots of strange, little doilies, all shining a nostalgic light on the land of Estonia’s Finno-Ugric cousins. The focus here is on tasty Hungarian favorites, prepared with your pocket-book in mind. We quite liked the pork snitzel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (112kr). Maharaja C-2, Raekoja plats 13, tel. 644 43 67, info@ Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 38 RESTAURANTS L’arancia D-2/3, Suur-Karja 17/19, tel. 680 66 88, savoy@tallinnhotels.ee, www.savoyhotel.ee. For a formal, hotel restaurant, the Savoy Boutique Hotel’s mediterranean/Italian-style offering has a surprisingly artsy interior. The name means ‘orange’ in Italian and most of the dishes use elements of that fruit (the décor even includes tiny orange trees!). Expect pastas, mains and grill items with grand-sounding names. Good service. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (200kr). J RESTAURANTS Buffet express ExpressCafé Soup Gallery A-4, Sadama 1, tel. 667 87 00, tallinn.sales@revalinn.com, www.revalinn. com. On a cold day it’s hard to go past an all you can eat soup buffet. There are always at least six tasty soups to choose from, so take your time and enjoy. If the soup doesn’t fill you up, pig out on the bread selection, which is included in the set price. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (60kr). USW tel. 630 53 42/630 54 25, park.sales@revalhotels. com, www.revalhotels.com. The Reval Park Hotel presents a hearty buffet, which is a marathon affair at that. There’s a hot food option (119kr), a cold buffet (109kr), and the ‘sweet’ buffet (65kr). You can have all three for 229kr. For those who want a decent meal at one a.m. they’ve even got a buffet for that (150kr). QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. TULW 39 ervation@sok.fi, www.viru.ee. A cut above the average hotel restaurant, the Mermaid is classically styled with a 1930s motif. The space is large and perfectly suited for big groups, but with more than enough nooks to squeeze into for a romantic date. The large international menu caters to all tastes, and the food is first-class. We recommend the lamb with sun-dried tomatoes and the tiger prawn pasta. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (250kr). TULEXW Merineitsi C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. 680 92 70, viru.res- Park Avenue H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, Reval Park Hotel, Old Estonia C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. 641 21 83, info@oldestonia.ee, www.oldestonia.ee. Taking full advantage of its prime Raekoja Plats position with a ceiling to floor glass front, Old Estonia is perfect for dedicated people watchers. The simple stylish menu is complimented by an extensive wine list compiled from wine regions across the globe. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (230kr). JUS info@pascha.ee. Although the name would hint at this being a Turkish restaurant it’s more of an international place with a heavy Italian influence and a couple of token Turkish items. The slightly tired interior is decidedly pub-like, but they do offer excellent table service with a great big smile. Just like the stone walls and the wrought iron furniture, the food is hearty and decent, however for some strange reason the side dishes will cost you extra. Large selection of pizzas and pastas too. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. (150kr). UXSW NEW Pascha Restaurant Narva mnt. 2, tel. 53 33 58 00, Tallink City Buffet & Restaurant G-3, A. Laikmaa 5, tel. 630 08 00, cityhotel@tallink.ee, hotels.tallink. com. The upscale Tallink City Hotel offers lunch buffets with such a huge selection of food that it becomes hard to choose. Take your pick from the cold buffet (115kr), hot buffet (115kr), and dessert buffet (60kr). The extra hungry can have all three (230kr). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Lunch buffet 12:00 - 15:00. TULW Turg C-2, Mündi 3, tel. 641 24 56, reserve@turg. ee, www.turg.ee. Turg’s hearty buffet is a hidden gem, tending towards the Eastern European style, and the people in the kitchen really seem to know what they’re doing. Servings cost 15kr per 100g, coffee and water are included. Q Lunch buffet 12:00 - 15.00. JS 00, reval@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. Attached to a café of the same name, this is the first full-fledged restaurant in the popular Reval chain and we have to admit it’s certainly worth a try. The interior is cosy with an old-worldly feel and the menu is dominated by a large selection of rich pastas and a variety of fillets. Our duck was succulent, however, our rosemary potatoes didn’t seem to have much to do with rosemary, perhaps they were prepared by a woman of the same name and oddly enough, they cost extra. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 07:30 - 24:00. (170kr). JLTXSW Reval Café Restaurant D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. 641 81 ee, www.sisaliku.ee. Neither the cute lizard (sisalik) on the sign nor the quiet, tasteful interior give any indication of what category of cuisine is served here. The menu leans decidedly towards the French (actually, part of it is in French) and includes choices like chicken provencale and frogs’ legs. On the other hand, there are also decidedly Spanish tapas as well as Italian tagliatelle on offer. In any case, the food and service were both commendable, so give it a try. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (150kr). TJ Sisalik B-3, Pikk 30, tel. 646 65 42, sisalik@sisaliku. Senso H-3, Liivalaia 33, tel. 631 58 70, senso@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. With loads more character and cutting-edge décor than your typical hotel restaurant, Senso pulls in a good number of business people and other civilians from around town. The huge range of cuisine on offer includes sandwiches, burgers, pastas, pizzas and grilled items, all served with a professional (but not over-starched) manner. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (230kr). TULSW Stefanie’s H-3, Maakri 19/21, tel. 661 26 12, stefanies@ stefanies.ee, www.stefanies.ee. A smart, little restaurant in the shadow of the Radisson, Stephanie’s offers an ambience that’s stylish without being pretentious. Fillet-type mains as well as a good selection of pastas make up the menu. The chicken pasta we had was surprisingly satisfying. Fresh bread and professional service, overall a good value for this level of experience. If you have a bit of time after dinner, you can spend it in the cognac room in back. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (195kr). XW Travel B-2, Toompuiestee 37, tel. 631 01 66, info@ rainstuudio.ee, www.rainstuudio.ee/travel. The swank Travel (pronounced trav-el) gives a definite touch of class to Tallinn’s railway station. The menu is a mixture of international favourites including Nizza salad, Chicken Pot Pie, etc. and we quite liked the grilled butterfish. This is a great place to enjoy a decent meal or to just sit and sip on a coffee. They even have a cognac and cigar lounge if you’d rather feed your vices. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (135kr). TIEXS October - November 2008 Take a bite out of www.inyourpocket.com Tallinn In Your Pocket 40 RESTAURANTS Controvento C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. 644 04 70/646 46 76, info@controvento.ee, www.controvento.ee. Decorated in a cosy combination of medieval Estonian and rustic Italian, this stylish eatery has been a favourite of expats and locals for years, and deservedly so. The food here is absolutely top notch, with excellent pastas and beef dishes complemented by a good selection of Italian wine. It’s featured in every tourist guidebook, so be sure to make reservations. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (130kr). JI RESTAURANTS Rooma H-3, Lauteri 5, tel. 642 40 07, info@rooma. ee, www.rooma.ee. Located just a couple of blocks from the Reval Hotel Ol ympia the food far ou tshines the ser vice, which is painfull y slow. However, we will cer tainly be heading back as one of the best pizzas we have ever had, any where, was wood oven cooked at this slightly kitschy Italian cellar restaurant. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (125kr). TLE 41 Italian al Sole C-3, Viru 8, tel. 644 88 52, alsole@viruinn.ee, www.viruinn.ee. Almost guaranteed a flow of customers thanks to its prime location on Viru tänav, this busy place is made up of a funky, foyer café and a more staid rear dining room. Cakes spin around in a glass case in between. The menu concentrates on familiar pasta dishes, including a ricotta-filled cannelloni, which was decent, but somewhat bland. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200kr). J 50 99 91, info@basiilik.ee, www.basiilik.ee. Truly an unexpected find. Though not quite rivaling the best Italian cuisine in town, for a restaurant that’s in a giant cinema house, Basilik is surprisingly high-quality. Soups, pastas and other mains are served by friendly staff in a nicer-than-average dining room. Crowds ebb and flow according to the film schedule. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (90kr). W 77, davinci@davincifood.ee, www.davincifood.ee. This small restaurant’s bright, ochre walls and cheerful oil paintings give it a somewhat refined look without crossing over into formality. Menu items are certainly inventive, with white fish in zucchini pastry and canneloni stuffed with duck on offer. The pizza (85 - 120kr) is the real treasure here though - it has all the right accessories and a good amount of spice. Head to the café side for a more casual, café-like experience. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Café open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (210kr). 75, info@fellini.ee, www.fellini.ee. Distinguished by its location above Town Hall Square (definitely ask for a window table!), Fellini offers pastas, meat and fish dishes in a subdued ambience that skirts the edge of formality. Live piano music four nights a week adds a romantic touch. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (230kr). JESW Da Vinci/Café Leonardo C-3, Aia 7, tel. 641 61 Toscana C-3, Vene 6, tel. 645 00 45, Toscana@ davincifood.ee, w w w.davincifood.ee/toscana. A touch of Tuscany comes to Tallinn in the form of this Italian-owned and operated restaurant. Intriguing pastas and mains like entrecote with truffled cream are served up in an airy room accented with wood and wine bottles. It’s a bit pricier than average, but we’re told all ingredients are imported from the home province and all its wines are available by the glass. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (250kr). J Pizza Below you’ll find a list of venues that specialise in pizza, however if you’re looking for a ‘special’ pizza you may visit some of the Italian restaurants in town, which usually make an even better pie. Fellini C-2, Kinga 1 (Raekoja Plats), tel. 631 47 Basiilik G-3, Hobujaama 5, in Coca-Cola Plaza, tel. 56 Gianni G-3, Jőe 4a, tel. 626 36 84, info@gianni.ee, www.gianni.ee. Think candlelight, champagne buckets and soft, swank modernity. A sophisticated, Italian restaurant like Gianni could pass muster anywhere in the world - this one just happens to be in Tallinn, off Narva mnt. in the direction of the port. Our ricotta-filled ravioli was expertly-prepared. Those looking for a less involved experience can head to the attached Fashion Café, open 07:30 - 21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (300kr). 6UILSW Il Patio C-3, Aia 3, tel. 627 12 44, ilpatio@rosinter.ee, www.rosinter.ee. Connected to T.G.I. Friday’s (it’s next door and run by the same company), this restaurant goes in for the casual, cool modernity of an open-plan layout, with cooks working away in the little kitchen behind the counter. It’s quality place to stop. The salads, pastas, pizzas and mains are top notch, even if you, like us, have to wait a while for them to arrive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (120kr). TJ Americana D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. 644 88 37, pizza@americana.ee, www.americana.ee. Try any of the 60 varieties of thick tasty pizza at this little corner pizzeria and you’ll be immobilised for days. But if you order your pizza by phone, you’ll have to put up a fight to eat it there. Lunch specials for 85kr and 135kr. Deliver y 70kr. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. TJLS Peetri Pizza B-4, Mere pst. 6, tel. 661 61 81, peetripizza@peetripizza.ee, www.peetripizza.ee. A local favourite, Peetri offers pizzas that we find passable. Apart from this fairly simple café, it has various branches and stands all over town, notably the pizza window at Pärnu mnt. 22, which stays open until 01:00 on Fridays and Saturdays. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. S Pizza Grande C/D-2/3, Väike-Karja 6, tel. 641 87 18, info@pizzagrande.ee, www.pizzagrande.ee. Grande’s signboard proudly displays the flag of that great pizza-making nation - Norway. Huh? Anyhow, the pizza in this cellar café is fairly tasty, and comes in three sizes. Be warned though that the large is more like an extra-large. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JS 07. Super-cheap (25 - 43kr) pies are sold in this perfectly adequate, bargain-priced pizza cafe behind the train station. Not bad if you’re in the area, but not worth hiking to. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 10:30 - 22:00. N Bocca B-3, Olevimägi 9, tel. 611 72 90, bocca@bocca. ee, www.bocca.ee. A smart, slick establishment where you’d expect to run into super-chic members of Tallinn’s Alist, or maybe a supermodel or two. Bocca delivers formal, professional service and an inventive array of pastas and filletos (fillets), all under the watchful eye of award-winning chef Nicolo Tanda. The attached loungy bar is a swank place for a post meal cognac. Make reservations on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (245kr). J vapiano.ee, www.vapiano.ee. Vapiano is a European chain of self-service, market concept restaurants where the tantalising food is prepared right before your very eyes. When you arrive at the door you’re greeted and given a plastic card, then proceed to the area of your choice to place your order (pasta, salad/antipasti or pizza) and the items are charged to the card. The majority of mouth-watering food items and fresh, that’s right - fresh, pastas are dispatched quite quickly, the pizza doesn’t take too long either but you’ll be given a pager that vibrates and blinks when your pie is piping hot. The prices are delightfully affordable and the food - bella! QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (90kr). UW Vapiano B-3, Hobujaama 10, tel. 682 90 10, foorum@ Buongiorno D-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. 53 91 08 46. Infused with the powerful fragrance of garlic and decked out with unmistakably Italian mementoes, this small café leaves no room for doubt that there’s the hand of a native at work here. More casual and less expensive than Old Town’s other Italian choices, Buongiorno will treat you to an authentic and friendly experience. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (145kr). J6 Complemento D-3, Viru 11, tel. 669 15 10, hotel@ vanawiru.ee, www.vanawiru.ee. Once you get over the location - in the lobby of the Baltic Vana Wiru Hotel - you’ll be surprised by the wonderful quality-to-price ratio here. A small selection of delicious fettucine and ravioli is complimented by a range of ‘roasts’, all served with hot rolls and stiff formality. We found the food to be quite good. One hint: make sure you’re seated to the left as you come in or you’ll be given a pub menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (110kr). TJUL Garlic Balthasar C-2, Raekoja plats 11, tel. 627 64 00, balthasar@ag.e e, w w w.r estaurant. ee. Beau tifull y-restored dining rooms overlooking Town Hall Square provide Bal thasar th e per fect aristocratic setting for i ts refined establishment. The special ty of the house is garlic, and ever y thing that can be made wi th i t. The number of bulbs next to each menu i tem indicates the dent i t will pu t in your evenin g’s social prospects. Just wh en you thought you had enough garlic, a quick look at the desser t menu reveals …garlic ice cream! Reser vations are recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (255kr). TJEW PizzAmore G-2, Kopli 4, tel. 641 35 49/505 06 Piz zeria al Sole C-3, Viru 8, tel. 644 88 52, alsole@viruinn.ee, w w w.viruinn.ee. The classy, li t tle piz zeria at tach ed to th e Viru Inn’s al Sole restaurant uses an au thentic, wood-burning oven, and the resul t is fresh and tasty. Pizzas run 100 - 180kr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. J Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 42 RESTAURANTS Japanese www.silk.ee. Just off the square, this sleek and trendy sushi spot has made a big splash with those who are willing to spend. All varieties are available - maki sushi, baked sushi, spicy sushi, etc. Eight-piece maki dishes generally run 25 - 95kr, while larger assortments go from 230 - 490kr. Other Japanese dishes are also available in the tasteful, black-lined restaurant. You can even order sushi online and have it delivered to your hotel. See www.silkonline.eu for more details. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at: G-4, Narva mnt. 15, tel. 661 60 99. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (140kr). JW RESTAURANTS Jewish 662 61 02, info@moses.ee, www.,moses.ee. Nestled into the lower level of Tallinn’s only synagogue, this kosher establishment is a little sparse albeit somehow romantic. Prepared according to ancient laws, the cuisine is aromatic and healthy with more than a few vegetarianfriendly available. They also have a delicious wine selection consisting mainly of Israeli vintages. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Fri. (185kr). UL 43 Silk C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. 648 46 25, silk@silk.ee, Sushi Sushi is rapidily gaining popularity in Tallinn and the number of places which offer the tasty dish have skyrocketed. Here is a list of just some of the many places around town offering sushi these days. Moses G-4, Karu 16 (Beit Bella Synagogue), tel. Korean Ariran G-1, Telliskivi 35, tel. 673 39 92, ariran@hot. ee, www.hot.ee/ariran. Thankfully the noisy fridge motor drowns out the Russian pop tunes squeaking from behind the bar. From there the ambience doesn’t improve. Ariran is strictly a local place, so only true fanatics will trek out to this awkward neighbourhood to find it. The food, at least, is spicy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (125kr). INS Café Mmuah D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. 683 11 99, stiine@scotlandyard.ee, www.mmuah.ee. This loungy café now offers a wide assortment of sushi. Eight-piece maki dishes run 35-80kr, nigiri are 40-55kr a piece and combos 135-295kr. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Silk Sushi Bar C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, (first floor), tel. 610 15 81, info@silk.ee, www.silk. ee. The newest addition to the Silk sushi family is located conveniently in a shopping centre. Eight-piece maki run 30-195kr, nigiri 35-60kr, and combos range 220-490kr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. USW Soul G-3, Hobujaama 5, tel. 680 07 92, soul@korea. ee, www.korea.ee. There was a lot of beer on the menu here. Literally. Our menu was soaked with beer and it reeked. Then again, one shouldn’t expect too much from a tiny, tacky, all-night bar crammed into a cinema house. A smattering of Russian and Korean dishes is on offer, but if you wind up here for some reason, it’s probably better to stick to drinks and stare at the film trailers. Q Open 24 hrs. (75kr). L Sushi House C-2, Rataskaevu 16, tel. 641 19 00/56 27 87 44, info@house.ee, www.house.ee. Located in the cellar of House restaurant and the recipient of a silver spoon gastronomy award, this sushi bar presents three-piece maki ranging from 47-55kr, nigiri 42-55kr, and combos 190-380kr. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. JSW Zebra Café G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 610 92 30, info@ zebracafe.ee, www.zebracafe.ee. A little on the pricey end of the chopstick but very professionally prepared, this trendy lounge restaurant offers up eight-piece maki for 110-225kr, nigiri 30-65kr and combos 310-555kr. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (220kr). S Vegetarian Unless you’ve got an odd fascination with potatoes and cabbage, you probably won’t find Estonia to be a very vegetarian-friendly country. There are no specifically vegetarian restaurants, and elsewhere it’s hard to find anything that doesn’t involve the ever-present pork chop. Your best bet is to go the ethnic food route. Indian, Thai and Chinese restaurants usually have vegetarian sections, and Italian/Pizza restaurants can always make something without meat. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 44 RESTAURANTS Medieval Maikrahv C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. 631 42 27/55 51 45 17, reserve@maikrahv.ee, www.maikrahv.ee. Named for the ‘May Count’ of Tallinn’s medieval days of yore, this respectable establishment hidden under Town Hall Square hints at old-style regality all the while providing a decidedly modern and down-to-earth dining experience that won’t bust your budget. The menu is international, dominated by fillets with a couple of pastas thrown in for good measure. Delicately prepared food and professional service made the experience come off without a hitch. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (225kr). JS oldehansa.ee, www.oldehansa.ee. Many frequent travellers would say that you haven’t really been to Tallinn unless you’ve visited Olde Hansa. This mecca of medievaldom in the heart of Old Town doesn’t just serve historically authentic fare made from carefully-researched recipes, it provides guests with a whole experience using a combination of candlelight, waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music. Chamber musicians round out the ambience every night of the week. Make sure to check out Olde Hansa’s newest addition called the Waggehus located just around the corner at Vanaturu Kael 8. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (200kr). J6UIES Lord’s contemplation duck fillet. The fresh, hot rolls are a nice touch. Every evening at 20:00 there’s a theatrical swordfight on the staircase, followed by Oriental dancing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (170kr). TJES RESTAURANTS 45 Mediterranean Tigu H-4, Vilmsi 45, tel. 56 66 84 93, tigukohvik@tigukohvik.ee, www.tigukohvik.ee. Set in a quaint little house on the edge of the charming Kadriorg district, this modest familyrun establishment goes far beyond any other restaurant in its class. The atmosphere is laid back, the service is friendly and attentive and the cuisine takes you on a romantic journey to the Mediterranean. With an emphasis on fresh seafood and fish, the exquisite dishes and extensive wine list will make you want to linger. The Tigu, or ‘snail’ in English, is truly one of those hidden gems not to be missed, however its popularity with the locals pretty much guarantees the need to reserve well in advance. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (175kr). L Olde Hansa C-2, Vana turg 1, tel. 627 90 20, reserve@ Coming soon! Vana Toomas C-2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. 631 42 27, info@vanatoomas.ee, www.vanatoomas.ee. By the time we go to press this the newest addition to the flock of eateries on Town Hall Square should be up and ready to serve its hungry patrons. Named after the famous Town Hall weather vane that can actually be seen from some of the tables here, this international style restaurant/café offers fresh baked goods, pizzas, salads and other hearty but healthy dishes. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JW Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. 646 68 00, peppersack@peppersack.ee, www.peppersack.ee. Peppersack makes wonderful use of the 15th-century building it calls home - both the vast main hall and the more intimate rooms further back exude comfy medieval-ness. The menu is European-based and fun-loving, with clever choices like Lady Margareta’s weakness (chicken fillet) and Mansion Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 46 RESTAURANTS Russian cafepushkin.ee, www.cafepushkin.ee. While other Russian places are geared towards tourists, Café Pushkin is where the local Russians, including politicos and celebs, come to eat. The bliny (pancakes) are said to be the best in the city. A long list of other Russian favourites is on offer, including the triple ukha (fish soup) and the Boyar (rolled beef stuffed with cherries and walnuts). Some people come just for the borscht, but show up Fridays and Saturdays at 20:00 to hear a live balalaika and guitar ensemble. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. E klafira.ee, www.klafira.ee. If it’s an aristocratic Russian experience you’re after, Klafira, strategically located on Vene tänav (Russian Street) is the perfect place. Beautifully decorated to take you back to the wealth of 19th-century Russia, the cosy, old style atmosphere and friendly service more that make up for the pricey food. All the favourite Russian delights can be found on the menu and a few more exotic ones for adventurous diners. Live Russian music will keep you entertained if your company isn’t doing the job. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (200kr). J6ES RESTAURANTS Subboteja D/E-3, Vabaduse väljak 5 (Vene Teater), Café Pushkin C-4, Mere pst. 5, tel. 631 36 36, cafe@ tel. 611 49 51/53 41 85 06, info@subboteja.ee, w w w.subboteja.ee. Tucked into th e bowels of th e Russian Theatre, Subboteja got its name from a popular Russian-Estonian TV show but you don’t have to be a travel buff to enjoy the offerings at this travel-themed eater y. The cuisine here is decidedly Russian with occasional borrowings from other European cultures as well. The seats are comfor table and the atmosphere is relaxed. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (190kr). W 47 Tchaikovsky C-3, Hotel Telegraaf, Vene 9, tel. 600 06 Klafira C-3, Vene 4, tel. 667 51 44/58 37 73 33, info@ 10, restaurant@telegraafhotel.com, www.telegraafhotel.com. Located in the beautifully renovated Telegraaf and much more opulent than most hotel restaurants, the Tchaikovsky is a luxury Russian-French-fusion affair dedicated to preparing culinary delights reminiscent of fine cuisines from a whole other era. Here you’ll find flaky pastry crusts, succulent shrimps and fine wines fit for the Tsar, and if you’re lucky he’ll offer to pay as well. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00;18:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (300kr). TJULEW Middle eastern uninet.ee, www.bazar.ee. Decked out with funky lamps and haremesque booths, this restaurant/club has just the right touch of the exotic, but its enormous popularity is probably down to the sheik-sized portions of Arabian dishes and kebabs served here. It gets crowded on weekends, so make reservations and don’t be surprised if flagging down a waitress takes a little effort. Menus are in Estonian only, however the staff do speak English. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (78kr). LE 32 28, info@sindbad.ee, www.sindbad.ee. Despite some rugs on the wall next to a couple of framed Arabic slogans, Sindbad feels like a busy, modern, Estonian lunch café that happens to serve really good kebabs. It could just as easily work as a casual, after-hours pub if you want to gather your mates and have a few beers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (90kr). T6LSW Bazar H-1, Tulika pőik 3/Madara 14, tel. 660 93 77, redfox@ Nevskij C-2, Rataskaevu 7, tel. 628 65 60, nevskij@ schlossle-hotels.com, www.nevskij.ee. Given the way the St. Petersbourg Hotel’s high-class restaurant is decorated, it might very well be mistaken for Russian intellectual’s sitting room, were it not for the fact that a smart waiter greets you at your table with a vodka and caviar menu. Classic aristocratic staples are on offer and are done in a way that shows a clever chef at work. We liked the garlic-laden shchi (cabbage soup), and the fact that the complimentary vodka shots seemed to keep coming. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. (300kr). JEIS St. Olav Hotel Restaurant C-2, Lai 5, tel. 616 11 80, sales@olav.ee, www.olav.ee. Set in the luxurious ballroom of the St. Olav hotel, this Russian restaurant’s atmosphere is fit for a Tsar. The service is a little relaxed but the overall experience was quite pleasant, and the dishes were prepared elegantly. We suggest you book in advance to avoid losing your table to a larger group. QOpen 11.00 - 22.00. (189kr). JW Troika C-2, Raekoja plats 15, tel. 627 62 45, restoran@ troika.ee, www.troika.ee. One of Tallinn’s must-see cellar restaurants, Troika wows its clientele with a cosy, old-style Russian décor and a singer who belts out folk songs from a balcony from time to time. (When choosing your table, you may want to consider just how close you want to be to this spectacle.) But the best thing about this place is the food excellent bliny and pelmeni as well as a selection of traditional main courses. Great service. Book ahead. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (195kr). JUIEX Sindbad Kebab H-3, Liivalaia 51, tel. 625 89 14/510 Ukrainian Kumanets C-3, Vene 8, 2nd floor, tel. 525 55 69, info@ kumanets.ee, www.kumanets.ee. This centrally located restaurant is named after a traditional Ukrainian ceramic water jug which has a hole in it like a donut. There aren’t any donuts on the menu but the homestyle vareniki and potato pancakes were certainly pleasing. If you’re brave enough you can even try the ‘bacon fat in chocolate’ from the dessert menu. Not overly fancy, but a cut above the other Old Town tourist-traps. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (180kr). J Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 48 RESTAURANTS Seafood fw.ee, www.fw.ee. With its pink neon and polished concrete design, this little restaurant looks more like a trendy delicatessen at first glance. The friendly table service, however, extends all the way complimentary toast and cream cheese. As the name implies, a selection of (mostly cold) fish dishes makes up the menu, and if you’re stuck, the house wine ‘goes with everything’. Beware that the neighbourhood crowd around here can get rowdy at night. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (110kr). 6ULSW hot.ee, www.mookkala.com. An exercise in edgy semiformality, the Swordfish’s interior is marked out by romantic, blue lighting effects and other funky, artistic touches. The real strength here though is the top-notch cuisine, which has made this one of the most respected establishments in Tallinn. A wide variety of seafood is on offer, inlcuding the signature swordfish dish for 390kr. Count on impeccable service and a relaxing atmosphere. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (180kr). TJLSW RESTAURANTS Thai Bangkok E-2, Roosikrantsi 15, tel. 646 26 13, info@ bangkok.ee, www.bangkok.ee. You wouldn’t know at first glance (the door is weirdly placed), but this little, cellar restaurant is a great find - stylishly modern, comfy and offering decent food. A long list of spicy Thai curries and noodle dishes makes up the menu, which are a little on the pricey side. The spring rolls were the best we’ve had in years and the service was excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (190kr). 6SW 49 Fish & Wine E-2/3, Sakala 20, tel. 662 30 13, kart@ Gypsy Marcelle (Romale Restaurant) D-2, Rüütli 28/30, tel. 646 49 00, romalerestoran@romale.ee, www.romale.ee. There’s a decidedly theatrical quality to this self-dubbed ‘Gypsy restaurant.’ Built in a large, medieval cellar, it’s a festive study in reds and greens with ornate wall paintings and waitresses in elaborate costumes adding even more flash. The menu consists of a good mix of hot and cold appetisers, soups and meaty mains. Live gypsy music on weekend evenings. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (170kr) Mõõkkala C-2, Kuninga 4, tel. 641 82 88, mookkala@ Villa Thai G-4, J. Vilmsi 6, tel. 641 93 47, villathai@ villathai.ee, www.villathai.ee. A well-established favourite in the Kadriorg district just outside the city centre, the Villa is a quiet, comfortable affair. Sit with the ceramic elephants and drapery of the dining room or head to the bamboo-filled atrium with its gurgling fountain. Interestingly, the menu goes well beyond Thailand, encompassing Vietnamese, Indonesian, Malaysian and Tandoor dishes. Some dishes are on the heavy side. We liked the fish cakes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (165kr). TULSW Ribe C-3, Vene 7, tel. 631 30 84, info@ribe.ee, www. Tex-mex tallinn@sok.fi, www.amarillo.ee. Bright, friendly colours, hot (spicy) food, and a professional outlook set Amarillo a notch or two above most other Tex-Mex contenders. More Yankee choices like burgers and pizzas are as available as quesadillas and fajitas. The vast dining area here on the ground floor of the Sokos Viru Hotel is great for families, while two bars cater to an after-work crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (180kr). TULES 31, carramba@hot.ee, www.carramba.ee. Something this, well, Mexican is a surprise find out in the Kadriorg neighbourhood. One advantage Carramba has over its competitors, besides the inviting pueblo décor, is the spice level - Carramba doesn’t skimp on the peppers, and even the otherwise innocent-looking rice is fiery. The enchiladas, burritos, fajitas, etc that make up the menu might not be up to expectations. Among the appetisers, go straight for the hot wings. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (155kr). TLS ribe.ee. We couldn’t quite figure out what category this fine eatery should fall under, but that actually doesn’t matter as the food and overall experience were excellent. The intriguing menu items are all artistically presented and the interior design is just pretty as punch. We found the portions a little on the slim side, nonetheless the ambience and friendly service made each of the small bites special. QOpen 12.00 - 23.00. (160kr). J6W Amarillo C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. 680 92 80, amarillo. Stravinsky C-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. 620 92 60/504 85 Pirates, beware! booking@korsaar.ee, www.korsaar.ee. Avast mateys! If you've ever dreamed of running away to become a pirate or a wench, now's your chance. This stunning piratethemed restaurant goes way beyond anything we've ever seen in terms of attention to detail and authenticity. From gangplanks to shark tanks, this subterranean grotto has everything covered. The international food is equally fantastic, with leanings on the creole and seafood side of the port bow. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00 TJIX Trendy lounge restaurants NEW 07, info@stravinsky.ee, www.stravinsky.ee. Like something out of the pages of a design magazine, the interior of this restaurant named for the famed composer will leave you with a good taste in your mouth. The portions are unfortunately smallish, however the presentation is très chic and the service we experienced here was second to none. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (190kr). JX puhvet.ee, www.puhvet.ee. Designed with theatrical inspiration, this restaurant, attached to a café of the same name, serves up fresh and creative dishes. Unlike most others in its class, the portions found here won’t leave you hungry and the prices won’t break you either. Occasional live music on weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (120kr). UEW Cantina Carramba G-5, Weizenbergi 20a, tel. 601 34 Teatri Puhvet D-4, Teatri väljak 3, tel. 699 05 90, info@ Korsaar C-2, Dunkri 5 (Beer House), tel. 666 8064, La Cucaracha Mustamäe tee 116, tel. 654 64 93, texmex@hot.ee, www.lacucaracha.ee. Way out in the Mustamäe suburb, Cucaracha is a long way to go for a burrito. Chimichangas and fajitas are on offer, though we thought they could do with a bit more spice. Still, it’s good enough place to knock back a few Coronas with your amigos if you happen to be in the area. Take trolleybus N°1 from Kaubamaja to the Tammsaare stop and keep walking. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (100kr). W seum.ee, www.museum.ee. Housed in a former fire-fighting museum, this sophisticated yet unpretentious establishment seems to be the current home to a vast majority of Tallin’s movers ‘n’ shakers. We found the service to be actually quite good, the cuisine with a heavy leaning towards Japanese and Mediterranean, was respectable and the prices, unlike many of those in the city centre, weren’t so high as to force us to sell one of our favourite internal organs. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 12.00 - 24:00, Tue 12:00 - 24:00. (175kr). JUW Museum Vana-Viru 14, tel. 646 09 01, museum@mu- Novell G-3, Narva mnt. 7c, tel. 633 98 91, novell@ Vietnamese Hai Long H-3, Pronksi 3, tel. 640 39 44, www. hailong.ee. The menu here offers both Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, and we (along with our waitress) had trouble working out which were which. Still, it’s a pleasant enough little place, brand new, casual and café-like, and our food, whichever nation claims it, was highly edible. Ingredients are fresh and rice dishes are excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (110kr). TUS revalhotels.com, www.novell.ee. The Hotel Central’s spiffy ground floor restaurant makes its mark on Tallinn’s culinary scene with an inventive menu. Items like Brazilian beef fillet and duck fillet with pineapple and kumquat stew can be enjoyed while sitting under a glass roof. Upstairs ‘studios’ are available for groups, and individuals can also try out the more laid-back front café. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (220kr). TULESW Wana Tunnel D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 30, info@vanatunnel.eu. This is definitely not one for the claustrophobic. The novelty at ‘Old Tunnel’ is that this lounge-style restaurant is built inside a narrow, 14th-century water tunnel that runs underneath the Harju business centre. A recent remodelling job has extended the dining area a bit, and added some modern and classy touches, such as chirping birds at the entrance. A selection of succulent international-type grill items dominate the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (190kr). JLW Zebra Café G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 610 92 30, info@ zebracafe.ee, www.zebracafe.ee. One of a new breed of high-quality, casual gourmet restaurants that have recently blossomed in Tallinn. Zebra offers à la carte dining with the option of a slightly cheaper cafeteria set-up, complete with freshly-baked pastries, desserts and a salad bar, all in one very slick, cool room. The service is excellent, and prices, while they might be a bit higher than elsewhere, are more than justified by the wonderful cooking. Save room for the chocolate-raspberry cheesecake. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (220kr). S Park Lounge H-4, Kreutzwaldi 23, Reval Park Hotel, tel. 630 53 42/630 53 49, park.sales@revalhotels. com, www.revalhotels.com. More of an evening spot than anything else, the plush, cream-coloured chairs and stainless-steel floors make Park Lounge a stylish place to loaf. Somewhat hidden beneath the lobby of the Reval Park Hotel, the secluded spot has its own menu, as well as a separate area for full-fledged dining. The fare on offer includes Asian and European cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (240kr). TULW www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 50 RESTAURANTS www.lydia.ee. Hands down, the Kadriorg area’s most formal dining is this plush restaurant named after Lydia Koidula, the matriarch of Estonian poetry. In the elegant, softly-lit dining area guests choose mains like salmon in mango puree or ostrich fillet with blackcurrant port wine sauce. The salmon and cheese soup, served in a bread bowl, was delish. Friendly, attentive service. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (240kr). TULE restoranpegasus.ee, www.restoranpegasus.ee. This innovative, three-storey restaurant is known for its world cuisine, with a constantly-changing selection of dishes, and progressive interior design. The London-trained kitchen staff really know what they’re doing, and we found the service to be equally professional. Although not for the frugal, the 325kr three-course lunch menu will tease your taste buds and the live jazz on Saturday nights will tempt your ears. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (265kr). J6LESW 18, tel. 601 36 36, info@restorankadriorg.ee, www. restorankadriorg.ee. This trendy, glass-covered cube of a restaurant fits perfectly with the poshness of its Kadriorg district surroundings. It’s made up of two smartly decorated floors, one with giant forks slyly worked into the design. The menu stretches from cuttlefish spaghetti to stewed deer leg in wine. On our last visit, the pasta was fairly good. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (325kr). TLS 2, tel. 699 97 00/699 97 15, barons@baronshotel.ee, www.barons.ee. Dress up a bit to feel in tune at this swank, 1930s-style hotel restaurant. If the windows overlooking Old Town’s busy pedestrian streets aren’t reason enough to make Barons your dinner destination, the intriguing menu will be. Escargots and rabbit are on the appetiser list, while the main courses are clever creations based on fish, duck, lamb and boar. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (200kr). TJ6UIXW radissonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. The Radisson SAS’s restaurant, Seasons, easily lives up to the expectations one would have of the respected international chain. A crisp atmosphere and professional service make it a good place to impress business associates, even if you aren’t staying in the hotel. We can recommend the quiche. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (225kr). UL RESTAURANTS Lydia G-4, Koidula 13a, tel. 626 89 90, lydia@lydia.ee, Stenhus C-3, Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. 699 77 80, schlossle@schlossle-hotels.com, www.stenhus.ee. The Schlössle hotel’s venerated cellar restaurant is an elegant refuge decorated with colourful swaths of cloth that bring to mind a fairytale castle. Everything on the menu is exquisitely prepared by a team of award-winning chefs, making it well worth the price. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30. (350kr). JIES tel. 630 63 00, info@threesistershotel.com, www. threesistershotel.com. From the elaborate cognac table at the entrance to the private Angels Room with its centuries-old ceiling painting, the elegant, little restaurant in the Three Sisters Hotel is a study in crisp luxury. In addition to more familiar mains, diners can opt for a wide range of delicacies, or a 1200kr, 6-course meal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (275kr). J info@vertigo.ee, www.vertigo.ee. Fresh, gourmet dining combines with spectacular views of downtown skycrapers in this cool, 9th-floor restaurant. Part of it is an ultra-smart brasserie and lounge that serves up things like chanterelle risotto and Maroccoan fish sets along with grill and wok dishes. The tuna clubber was great. A more formal ‘fine dining’ section offers elabrate dinner selections. Try the mojito cheesecake for dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. (290kr). T6UIEXSW 51 Pegasus C-2, Harju 1, tel. 631 40 40, pegasus@ Three Sisters Restaurant A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, Vertigo H-3, Rävala pst. 4, 9th floor, tel. 666 34 56, Restoran & Spaghetteria Kadriorg G-5, Weizenbergi Carnivore Caravan H-3, Maakri 19/21, upstairs, tel. 653 31 99, info@caravangrill.ee, www.caravangrill.ee. Imagine a huge, mirrored ball and a keyboardist playing a deafening rendition of Elton John’s ‘Nikita’ to an empty room. Otherwise this might be a worthy place, with date palms adding a quasiEgyptian touch. The food at the self-proclaimed ‘grill house’ is a cut above the pub-style average. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. E Grillhaus Daube D-2, Rüütli 11, tel. 645 55 31, daube@ daube.ee, www.daube.ee. A huge step up from the typical throw-the-pork-on-the-fire grill house, Daube is a roomy, two-floor affair decorated in a warm style that’s the very definition of ‘smart casual’. Expect smiling service and happy tastebuds. Find it in a nicely redone little house just off Harju tänav. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (175kr). JIS Restoran Margarita C-2/3, Suur-Karja 7/Väike-Karja Upscale Egoist B-3, Vene 33, tel. 646 40 52, egoist@egoist. ee, www.egoist.ee. Take all trappings of an old-fashioned, high-class restaurant - the chandeliers, the antiques, the tie-clad diners - multiply the decadence by three, and you’ll get some idea of what the award-winning Egoist is all about. The sister restaurant to Gloria, this exclusive establishment has an equally impressive menu, offering choices like lobster carpaccio, pan-fried foie gras and elk fillet noisettes. Book ahead, dress to impress and ring the bell to enter. QOpen 12:00 - 23.30. Closed Sun. (400kr). JI Gloria D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. 640 68 00, gloria@ gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. Gloria has been synonymous with class and style since it opened in 1937, and once you get a look at the intricate, pre-war interior, you’ll understand why this was the restaurant of choice for the Pope and several visiting heads of state. In case you need more convincing, Condé Nast named Gloria one of the world’s 100 best. We found our meal here a relaxing, well-orchestrated experience. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (300kr). TJILSW karl.friedrich@ag.ee, www.karlfriedrich.ee. Calling itself a ‘pepper restaurant’, this swank affair overlooking Raekoja plats serves up roast duck shank and all manner of pepper-coated chicken and pork fillets in its nicely carpeted, wood-paneled, second floor dining room. The first floor ‘lounge’ offers more casual and slightly cheaper options. The food here is quite good, though the prices seem to have the free-spending tourist in mind. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (260kr). TJIW Seasons D-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel. 669 00 00, info.tallinn@ Munga Kelder C-3, Vene 12, tel. 644 46 14, mail@ mungakelder.ee, www.mungakelder.ee. Overtly geared toward tourists, the Monk’s Cellar is essentially a basement bar turned upscale by the clever use of table linen and glasses. Meat and fish dishes are served up along with awful, saxophone versions of 70s hits. The salmon in foil was mediocre and the service indifferent. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150kr). J Oliver C-3, Viru 3, tel. 630 78 98/53 47 47 41, info@ oliver.ee, www.oliver.ee. A tireless, carved wooden waiter spends all day long on Viru tänav luring tourists into this cellar restaurant, where grill items like Cajun ribs and pork sirloin dominate the menu. Other choices like vegetable lasagne are available to the less protein inclined. We have no big complaints about the food or service, but a lack of anything special puts Oliver decidedly under the heading of ‘just your average cellar restaurant.’ QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (200kr). TJUIESW 22, info@restaurantrevalia.ee, www.restaurantrevalia. ee. With its enviable location right on Old Town’s main square, Revalia is never wanting for customers. The interior décor makes it look a bit like an art shop, but there’s no mistaking the menu - tenderloin steaks and other grill items of the type that are popular around this part of Europe. Crepes available too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (230kr). JUS Kuluaar C-3, Aia 2, tel. 631 35 07, www.kuluaar.ee. The sign outside offering ‘pippuripihvi + olut’ (Finnish for ‘peppersteak and beer’) tells you all you need to know about Kuluaar’s target market. This modern - and eerily spartan - cellar venue cooks up a small selection of typical meat and fish dishes. Service is fast and food is actually pretty good, but if you do decide to eat here we suggest you do so during the patio season. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (150kr). I Revalia Grill House C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. 631 39 Karl Friedrich C-2, Raekoja plats 5, tel. 627 24 16, Madissoni Grill & Baar D-4, Rävala pst. 3, tel. 682 34 22, info@madissoni.ee, www.madissoni.ee. The name rhymes with Radisson, as in Radisson SAS, the towering hotel to which this two-storey grill-bar is attached. Gigantic windows, slick design and TVs tuned to satellite channels give it that familiar international feel. In addition to pricier items from the grill, the menu includes a club sandwich and a bacon cheeseburger. On weekdays it also works as a breakfast café, with the unlikely operating hours of 07:03 - 10:57. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (240kr). TULES Hungry for more? www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 52 RESTAURANTS Theme restaurants hhruutel.ee, www.hhruutel.ee. At the basement restaurant that is H.H. Knight, impressive, decorative ironwork and paintings of knights and damsels cover the walls. Apart from the medieval ambience there doesn’t seem to be anything ‘middle-aged’ about the menu, which predominately features standard European meat dishes. We’re quite confident that our veggies were recently frozen, however the overall quality was quite all right considering the reasonable price. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 19:00. (130kr). J CAFÉS Classic cafés The staple formula of a bunch of little, round tables and a pastry counter has served Tallinn well for years. It’s not that these places don’t have ambience - they do, but they’re more for grabbing a bite on the run than for settling in. 53 H.H. Rüütel C-2, Rüütli 4, tel. 646 41 57, hhruutel@ Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café B-3, Pikk PUBlic House D-4, Rävala pst. 7, tel. 688 07 47, info@publichouse.ee. It takes a special kind of, um ...daring to do up a Tallinn pub in an heavy golf theme. This place actually inherited all its 9-irons, spiked shoes and whatnot from a previous owner, so cut them some slack. Beyond the 18-hole décor, it’s just a nice, cosy, downtown lunch cellar, offering a small selection of fish, pork and beef fillets. Friendly service. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (105kr). stock.ee, www.woodstock.ee. Until the hard rock club got ahold of it, it was an oh-so-cute village-lane-themed restaurant filled with lampposts, fake trees and fairytale brick facades. Now the cellar venue looks more like something out of Nightmare on Elm Street. Enjoy your lunch under the stern gaze of heavy metal legends. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. E Rockstar’s E-2, Tatari 6, tel. 660 49 15, tere@wood- 30, tel. 644 45 30, anneli@anneliviik.ee, www.anneliviik.ee. Chocoholics beware! This little, Old Town café features Anneli Viik’s handmade chocolates, made on the spot and sold either by the box for take-away, or in smaller portions to accompany your coffee (or light food or cognac, etc). There’s even a glass wall that lets you watch the chocolatiers do their stuff. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. J6USW Donuts and Dumplings After all one can never have too many dumpling and doughnut cafes. EAT has the feel of a student café and the prices to match, where else in old town can you get half a litre of cider for 25kr. All dumplings and doughnuts are sold by weight (7 - 15kr/100g), but they also offer a daily dish for 35kr. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JW EAT C-3, Sauna 2, tel. 644 00 28, www.eat.ee. Turg C-2, Mündi 3, tel. 641 24 56, reserve@turg.ee, www.turg.ee. The name in Estonian means ‘market’ and that’s exactly what this theatricaly-decorated cellar restaurant looks like inside - a classic, outdoor market square, complete with overhanging eves, a tree, chirping birds and some faux produce. That doesn’t mean you can haggle over menu prices though. The food on offer is of the affordable international style, tending towards the Eastern European. For those extra hungry folks, we suggest to check out the feast menu, and for the frugal try the lunch buffet on offer Mon to Fri between 12:00 and 15:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (150kr). JS Café Rose C-2, Voorimehe 4, tel. 55 52 56 58/56 66 76 89, artvitis@hotmail.com. Tucked into a side street, this Lilliputian-sized café kind of reminds you of Grandmas place, only they charge you for the tea and biscuits. We’d recommend it to anyone who either misses Grandma or is doing research for a book on older women that have more than three cats and garden a lot. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. JUSW Kuku Kohvik D-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. 644 59 26, info@kukuklubi.ee, www.kukuklubi.ee. This tiny café sandwiched between galleries is somewhat predictably a popular hangout for artists and artsy types. No baret required, but be prepared to discuss post-modernism. Note that some customers, as well as at least one seriously out-of-date city guide, still refer to this place by its 1990s name, Wiiralt. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. JL Mademoiselle A-3, Lai 49, tel. 614 13 50, oldtown@ meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels.com. Considered for years to be one of Tallinn’s best places to get a delectable dessert, this classic café still lives up to its reputation. Along with the many calorie-laden treats on offer, you can also find a few decent savoury meals. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Also at: G-2, Toompuiestee 27. Open 07:00 - 22:00. JUTSLW maiasmokk.ee. Tallinn’s oldest café, the Sweet Tooth has been ser ving marzipan and other treats since it opened way back in 1864. Drop in for elaborate cakes, cheap coffee, and an amazing, pre-war interior. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JN Maiasmokk C-2, Pikk 16, tel. 646 40 70, www. Reval Café Vene 1 C-2/3, Vene 1, tel. 644 64 73, info@ revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. It’s the one with the giant mocha pot. The atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable, the perfect spot to lounge out with a cup of joe and a friend. If you’d rather have a read with your coffee, head upstairs where there’s less noise. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 23:00. (80kr). J6UIESW Saiakang C-2, Saiakang 3/5, tel. 644 30 55. One of the last of Old Town’s simple and cheap cafés. Here you’ll find plenty of salads, pastries and frugal, old folks. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J Tristan ja Isolde C-2, Raekoja plats 1 (Town Hall), tel. 680 60 83. Tucked into the corner of Tallinn’s famous Town Hall, this teensy-weensy coffee spot has both a historic ambience and an enviable location. Better still, it’s owned by the Bonaparte restaurant, so its pastries are some of the best in town. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. J Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 54 CAFÉS Fashionable Tallinn’s most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the satisfaction that you’re with the ‘in’ crowd. CAFÉS Stylish & Cosy These classy establishments are best for long chats with friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your next novel. matilda.ee, www.matilda.ee. A seething den of flowers and femininity, this cutesy little café was once the home to the medieval artist Michel Sittow and specialises in delicious cakes, such as the Pavlova tort and Marnier biscuit roll, all made right on the spot. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. J6SW 55 Matilda C-2, Lühike jalg 4, tel. 681 65 90, info@ Angel C-3, Sauna 1, tel. 641 68 80, info@clubangel.ee, www.clubangel.ee. Though this gay café enforces a members-only policy on some weekends, that hasn’t made it any less of a hot spot for Tallinn’s trendy set (both gay and straight). The crowd from the Angel nightclub downstairs makes its presence felt in the evenings. Tricky ‘hetero’ and ‘homo’ labels on the WCs notwithstanding, the interior here is old-school - brick and wood. Pastas and tapas and an extensive cocktail menu are on offer. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. J6W Boulangerie/Bestseller C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6, 3rd and 4th floor of Viru Centre, tel. 610 14 34/610 13 97, jaanika@bellavista.ee, www.vertigo.ee. Pulling in a clientele that’s both intellectual and trendy (think blondes wearing glasses), these twin cafés on the two floors of the Viru Centre’s Rahva Raamat bookstore have become popular gourmet lunch destinations. Each offers an original selection of salads and light brasserie-style meals, but head upstairs if you want ciabatta sandwiches or bread to go. Surprisingly cheap for this level of quality. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TULSW Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. 631 31 81, www. bogapott.ee. Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea, the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway. Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this combination café, art shop and ceramics studio. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JI Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. 646 44 44, bonaparte@ bonaparte.ee, www.bonaparte.ee. Nestled in a beautiful, 17thcentury building, Bonaparte certainly has a refined atmosphere, but it’s a casual and surprisingly affordable place to sip earl grey and sample the buttery croissants and other home-made pastries. Sit and watch the world go by, or check out one of the revolving art exhibits. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. TJIS Rae Kohvik C-2, Raekoja plats 10, tel. 644 39 88. Rae Kohvik is a café by day and a wine bar by night. Though any place with a location right on Town Hall Square might seem like a tourist trap, this one is worth visiting for its pleasant, antique-themed interior and Paulig coffees. Pancakes and full meals available too. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. J Lunch cafés These cafés are geared towards people who are looking for a quality meal and don’t want to wait around all day to get it. Café Peterson G-3/4, Narva mnt. 15, tel. 662 21 95, Boheme B-1, Kopli 18, tel. 631 19 28, www.bo- House café C-2, Raekoja plats 8/Kinga 6, tel. 56 27 87 44, info@house.ee, www.house.ee. This little corner café on Town Hall Square serves up a smattering of pies, quiches and delicate desserts alongside an extensive champagne list. While nothing special, you might enjoy it for the view. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JSW Moskva D-2, Vabaduse Väljak 10, tel. 640 46 94, moskva@moskva.ee, www.moskva.ee. One of the most popular cafés in Tallinn for several years running, its reputation as an ‘it’ spot doesn’t seem to be waning. Although the upstairs restaurant is the real draw, especially at night, you can get any of your favourite and trendy coffee drinks, a great salad or a cocktail in the downstairs café. Grab a seat by the windows so that the world can watch you as they pass by. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. JLEW heem.ee. This isn’t the sort of place to come if you have a burning hunger, however this very bohemian and inexpensive café serves up some delightful crepes, salads and some delicious desserts along with all your favourite caffeinated beverages. It’s even bohemianly located behind the Balti Jaama Turg, a great choice after you’ve done some treasure hunting. QOpen 08.00 - 23.00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10.00 - 23:00. (35kr). W info@cafepeterson.ee, www.cafepeterson.ee. Apart from being old-fashioned, cosy and friendly, just the way a café should be, Peterson has an artsy edge, no doubt thanks to the attached gallery and the live piano performances every evening. Popular with students and grannies alike. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Reval Café Müürivahe 14 D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. 641 81 00, info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. The modish combination of jagged, medieval brick and cushy furnishings could only work in a place like Tallinn. Fine for intense philosophical debates or dessert. If debating has gotten you truly hungry, check out the restaurant in the back. QOpen 07:30 - 02:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 07:30 - 24:00. (150kr). TJ6UILXSW Chocolaterie C-3, Vene 6 (in the courtyard), tel. 641 tel. 631 58 60/631 58 89, olympia.pastry@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. Wrapped sandwiches, pastries, fresh-squeezed juices and other healthy choices are served up at the Reval Hotel Olümpia’s busy ground floor café. It’s often a bustling environment, but there are some soft, circular sofas for those who want to take things slow. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. In August open until 23:00. (125kr). TULSW Café Boulevard H-3, Olümpia Hotel, Liivalaia 33, 80 61, www.pierre.ee. People squeeze into this quaint, frilly, 19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has its own master chocolatier who cooks up truffles from scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere. Be warned that seats fill up fast. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. JN Josephine C-3, Vene 16, tel. 641 82 91, www.pierre. ee. Brought to you by the same fine chocolatiers as Pierre located in the courtyard just down the street, the atmosphere at Josephine is quite a bit different a little swankier, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade chocolate. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. JNW kohvik.ee, www.kehrwieder.ee. Probably the best café in town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cave-like stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent gourmet coffees and Town Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned it can get crowded here. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. JN International chains International café chains may suffer from a cookie-cutter look, but there's something to be said for a guaranteed level of quality. Café Kompass G-3, Narva mnt. 7c, Reval Hotel Cen- Spirit Café B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. 661 61 51, info@ kohvikspirit.ee, www.kohvikspirit.ee. Designers apparently couldn’t decide if they were making a sushi bar or a living room, so this cushy café/restaurant ends up with a feel that’s both exclusive and comfy. A small selection of soups and pastas is available, but mostly it’s sushi here, with combos from 95 to 230kr. The food is tasty, the crowd is chic and the entrance is in the back. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. tral, tel. 633 98 11, central.compass@revalhotels. com, www.revalhotels.com. Local business people and travellers on-the-go appreciate this cafeteria-style dining option in the Reval Hotel Central’s lobby café. Exotic offerings like wok-fried meats, vegetables and Tandori burgers are made right before your eyes in the show kitchen. QOpen 11:45 - 21:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. TULS mmuah.ee. Pronounced like the French moi, this sharp establishment in the older part of the Kaubamaja building is a strange hybrid of a busy, almost fast-food-like eatery and a chic, loungey café. Fresh baguettes, quiche and a salad bar are ordered on the side that has the illuminated menu (in Estonian), while secluded tables on the other side of the room provide a more chilled-out experience. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Kehrwieder C-2, Saiakang 1, tel. 50 56 258, saiakang@ Café Mmuah D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. 683 11 99, www. Soviet chic Up for a nostalgia trip? Without really trying, some cafés have retained the essence of the USSR in all its tacky glory. Bakeries Loads of little bakeries around town churn out tempting pastries and provide coffee and tables to let you indulge on the spot. Here are some of the more interesting ones: pen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. JS Leibur G-3, Suur-Karja 18, tel. 661 20 00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. J Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. 646 68 00, www. peppersack.ee. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 17:30. J Double Coffee C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. 641 01 16, info@doublecoffee.ee, www.doublecoffee.ee. There are at least five of these Latvian clones around town; we’ve only listed one of the Old Town locations. All are known for their attractive interiors, mediocre food, slow service and high prices. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. JSW Robert’s Coffee C-4, Viru keskus, Viru väljak 6, tel. 644 11 30, www.robertscoffee.com. The same popular café that graces many a shopping mall in Finland also serves up the high-quality coffee and tea drinks in two downtown Tallinn locations. Coffees are flavoured in Robert’s own inventive styles. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. J Wayne’s Coffee D-4, Viru keskus, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 90, info@waynescoffee.ee. Freshly baked cakes, cookies, bagels, leafy sandwiches and even strawberry smoothies are on the menu at the Swedish chain’s most central Tallinn branch, inside the Viru Centre. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. L October - November 2008 Energia Kohvik D-4, Kaubamaja 4, tel. 660 47 06. This busy café next to a main trolleybus stop offers dim lighting, suspicious little sandwiches and a hideous interior. No wonder the Soviet Union was so feared. Bus your own tray. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. N Karja Café C-2, Suur-Karja 3, tel. 644 43 65. QO- Spaghetteria Davinci G-3, Narva mnt. 6, tel. 660 99 28, spaghetteria@davincifood.ee, www.davincifood.ee/spaghe/. A great little place when you’re in a hurry, this spaghetteria serves up a great selection of pastas and other light bites. The reasonably priced offerings are made under the supervision of real live Italians, using authentic ingredients, making it hard to go wrong. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (90kr). SW Narva Kohvik G-3, Narva mnt. 10, tel. 660 17 86. The heavy and somewhat overdone interior falls somewhere between cosy and ominous, but this old-timer’s continued popularity is probably down to sticking to the same formula: keeping everything simple and cheap. Peruse the attached bakery or just slip into the long, dark salon and brood. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. N Tallinn In Your Pocket 56 NIGHTLIFE One could get the impression that Estonians are hopeless party animals. For a town its size, Tallinn has a suspiciously high number of bars and nightclubs. But for foreign visitors, this just means there’s more variety on offer. This section is designed to help you pick the nightspot that suits your mood, whatever that may be. NIGHTLIFE Trendy lounge bars Dress to impress and mingle with Tallinn’s trendy club types or upwardly mobile elite. www.basso.ee. Dark, elegant and jazzy, Basso is something between a swank café and a hip lounge, and has become a popular nighttime haunt of the town’s more discerning drinkers. Drop in for a glass of chardonnay or a cocktail. Because it plays a café role during the day, a decent selection of food is usually available too. Live jazz Thursday evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. J6EW 57 Basso C-2, Pikk 13, tel. 641 93 12, basso@basso.ee, Expat hangouts Whether or not you consider it a stamp of approval, these bars and pubs are where Tallinn’s expats, and more than a few tourists, tend to congregate. cafevs.ee, www.cafevs.ee. You will never be alone in this groovy well-established favourite bar of locals and expats alike, which interestingly doubles as an Indian restaurant. There’s always a vibrant ambience which, depending on the time of day, will have you chilling on the comfy lounges or grooving when the DJs are in the house later in the evening. Head to the more intimate room downstairs for a bit of privacy. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. ULGSW Cafe VS E-2, Pärnu mnt. 28, tel. 627 26 27, info@ Live music Lots of pubs have weekend bands, but some places in particular are known as venues for live music. Café Amigo (see clubs) also pulls in some of Estonia’s best acts. ee, www.clazz.ee. Not only is Clazz a great place to grab a bite all hours of the day or night, it has quickly turned into one of the most happening spots in town for live music - practically every night of the week! Expect a wide variety of local and international performers, with styles ranging from jazz to Latin and everything in between. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. JEW Deja Vu C-3, Sauna 1, tel. 645 00 44, info@dejavu. ee, www.dejavu.ee. A super-stylish café/lounge bar with tiny tables and multiple video screens ...wait, haven’t we been here before? This one, at least, has a more exclusive feel than its rivals, and a famously long tea menu. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Age restriction 21+. JEW First Lounge C-2, Rataskaevu 22, tel. 641 34 14, nastja@firstlounge.ee, www.firstlounge.ee. Calling it a ‘lounge’ is a real stretch. Despite the plush furniture and décor inherited from the former occupants, this busy, noisy cellar hangout totally lacks the mellow groove and style-minded clientele of the trendy hotspots. What it has is a late-night food menu and sketchy service. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. J info@hookah-house.ee, www.hookah-house.ee. Apparantly not quite as cool as it used to be, this restaurant-lounge is all about relaxing on one of the sofas and pulling on one of the tobacco-filled water pipes. Over 15 flavours are available, everything from peach to cola. Evening DJs provide the right beats. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. TUXSW Clazz C-2, Vana turg 2, tel. 627 90 22, clazz@clazz. Hell Hunt B-3, Pikk 39, tel. 681 83 33, hellhunt@ hellhunt.ee, www.hellhunt.ee. If you just want to grab a beer with friends and avoid the tourist scene, Hell Hunt (The Gentle Wolf) is probably your best bet. An open, comfortable drinking establishment with a strong sense of style, it pulls in the locals by the droves with its no-nonsense atmosphere. While here, try the pub’s own brand of light and dark beers (brewed in Saaremaa). Good, cheap food too. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. JIEXW malones@baarid.ee, www.baarid.ee. You can think of it as ‘the old men’s place’. Right on Town Hall Square, this roomy Irish pub has become a popular meeting spot, particularly for older, male tourists and business travellers. In an effort to draw a younger crowd though, it has now been given a sports-bar makeover, with added TVs, etc. Live bands get the place buzzing on weekends, but you can find at least a small crowd here just about every night of the week. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JEW Karja 13, tel. 620 92 99, nimega.bar@baarid.ee, www. baarid.ee. One of the liveliest places on Old Town’s main bar street, Nimega pulls in the punters with its permanent 2-for-1 cocktails offer and general air of boy-meets-girl. On weekends, the little dance area in back sees plenty of action. Even further back there’s a tiny ‘Havana’ room that plays Latin music. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. JW Karja 4, tel. 641 15 15/56 49 14 91, nimetabaar@hot. ee, www.nimetabaar.ee. In case the flags hanging out front don’t give it away, Nimeta is the quintessential expat bar. At times it looks like something between a British stag party hangout and an expat boys’ club, but a good number of locals and backpacker types make it more interesting, especially on weekends when DJs get people into the dancing mood. A good place to watch sports and/or eat pub food. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. Age restriction 21+. JUXW Molly Malone’s C-2, Mündi 2, tel. 631 30 16, molly. Kolumbus Krisostomus C-3, Viru 24, 2nd floor, tel. 56 15 69 24, info@kolumbus.ee, www.kolumbus.ee. Avoid it when it’s filled with tourist groups doing karaoke (yeesh!), but this beer-hall style place is also where some of the more interesting local bands come to perform. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. IEW Rock Cafe H-4, Tartu mnt. 80d, 3rd floor, rc@rockcafe. ee, www.rockcafe.ee. Built into an old factory building just past the city’s bus station, this minimalist, two-story rock club is decidedly raw and industrial. Live acts - mainly rock but sometimes blues or funk - are booked every weekend, and the place boasts the best sound system of any club in Estonia. Enter the courtyard, go right and up the stairs. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission 50 - 100kr. LE Scotland Yard B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. 653 51 90, scotlandyard@scotlandyard.ee, www.scotlandyard.ee. An absolute monster of a pub just outside Old Town, Scotland Yard earns praise for its quaint Victorian-library/police-department interior, which even includes toilets done up like electric chairs! Sadly, people have died of old age waiting to get a drink at the bar. Rock-type bands take to the stage on weekends, and despite its gargantuan size, the place often fills to the brim. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. Admission free. LEW baar@vonkrahl.ee, www.vonkrahl.ee. The real name is ‘Von Krahli Baar’ but regulars just call it ‘Krahl.’ This downto-earth pub attached to a local theatre is where Tallinn’s alternative bands come to play, and naturally the crowd tends towards students, punks and artsy types. Come by during the day for good, cheap pub food. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JEW Hookah House E-2, Roosikrantsi 3, tel. 644 22 66, Stereo Lounge D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 49, info@ Nimega Baar (The Pub with a Name) D-2, Suur- Kaheksa (Lounge 8) D-2, Vana-Posti 8 (entrance from Müürivahe), tel. 631 48 12, 8@bdg.ee, www. lounge8.ee. A sophisticated establishment, Kaheksa is popular with Tallinn’s young, movers and shakers who can often be caught taking advantage of the lounge’s boxing-ring layout to compare fashion notes. A modern and comfortable interior gives it the right touch of class. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JUXSW Pegasus C/D-2, Harju 1, tel. 631 40 40, pegasus@ restoranpegasus.ee, www.restoranpegasus.ee. When you see crostini with sundried tomatoes on the bar menu, you know you’re not in a typical prole pub. The respected Pegasus restaurant’s ground-floor bar attracts many of the town’s movers and shakers, especially on Friday and Saturday nights when a DJ drops by to spin some vinyl. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JLEW Popular C-3, Vana-Viru 6, tel. 614 15 65, info@popular. ee, www.popular.ee. Though it’s a bit smaller than the other fashionable lounges, Popular still manages to fill its little seats and sofas with a respectable volume of trend monkeys. They seem to be pulled in by the availability of tobaccofilled water pipes, as well as the DJs who play progressive music on weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JXW stereolounge.ee, www.stereo.ee. Somehow this busy lounge bar is meant to look like an old stereo, but what you’ll find is one big room with an all-white interior and hordes of foreign males. Some visitors truly hate this place, finding the design sterile and off-putting, but Brits in particular seem to be attracted like moths to a searchlight. Service can be slow during peak drinking hours, but come by during the day for some really decent food. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. J6LEW UpUp Lounge Estonia pst 1/3, tel. 640 90 10, info@ upup.ee, www.upup.ee. This slick lounge with the fluffy floating clouds and magic-mirrored theme toilets looks as if it was designed by a bunch of advertising professionals, and as it turns out, it was. As far as we could tell the major difference between this and Tallinn’s other trendy lounge bars is... well, not much. We did however enjoy the reasonably priced lunch special. Expect an attractive and courteous staff and occasional live music on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Age restriction 18+. 6EW Lounge with a view Lounge 24 H-3, Rävala pst 3 (in Radisson SAS Hotel), tel. 682 34 24, info@madissoni.ee, www.madissoni.ee. A full 90m above street level, the suave lounge on the Radisson SAS’ 24th floor is the place to come for drinks with a view. At night, the stylish, little bar turns its lights down low, letting the cityscape fill the windows and creating a romantic mood, but when the weather is warm, the outdoor terrace is the place to be. Cocktails and light meals on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. October - November 2008 Nimeta Baar (The Pub with No Name) C/D-3, Suur- Von Krahl C-2, Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. 626 90 96, Tallinn In Your Pocket 58 NIGHTLIFE Bars & Pubs Assorted watering holes, each with its own style. NIGHTLIFE Public Corner C-4, Sokos Hotel Viru, Viru väljak 4, tel. 680 92 40, tarmo.omblus@sok.fi, www.corner.ee. This is a fairly standard, English-style hotel pub conveniently located next to the Viru Shopping Centre, within stumbling distance from Old Town. The menu is limited to pub snacks, but who cares when you’ve only come here to drink? There’s also a large screen TV so you don’t miss your sports. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. U St. Patrick’s C/D-2, Suur-Karja 8, tel. 641 81 73, stpatricks@hot.ee, www.patricks.ee. The name and décor may be Irish, but the crowds in each of Tallinn’s four St. Patrick’s pubs are just about as Estonian as they come. The one here on Suur-Karja is the most famous, cleverly built into a spacious, medieval hall. All offer decent, cheap food, and every fourth Saku Originaal is always free. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. W The Old Club D-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. 683 52 05. Beyond the odd name, this fairly non-descript pub’s real claim to fame is being open for all night dining and drinking. Main courses are available in the 100kr range. Judging by what we were served though, we recommend you stick to the French fries. Q Open 24h. JX 59 Artsy/underground The raw underbelly of Tallinn’s music and art scene will be appealing only to more adventurous travellers. 23 50/631 43 08, depechemodebaar@hot.ee, edmfk. cafe.ee/dmbaar. Vilnius has its Frank Zappa statue, so it’s only fair that Tallinn has this bar dedicated to Depeche Mode. For normal humans, this is just a friendly (if somewhat tacky) dive bar stuffed with fan memorabilia. But if you’re a true DM fan, this is all you ever wanted, all you ever needed. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. Age restriction 18+. JXW Bosphorus G-3, Narva mnt. 7d, tel. 669 67 82, info@ bosphorus.ee, www.bosphorus.ee. Although they call themselves a restaurant, this is more of a large Turkishthemed pub that offers an extensive menu. Expect a lot of meat-oriented dishes, friendly service, relaxed environment and decent prices. They also have ‘Happy Hours’ where you can get a selection of snacks and drinks for a deal. Water pipes can be rented and there are live belly-dancing shows on weekends. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (160kr). KX imperial.ee, www.juusturestoran.ee. A little off the beaten track but still not a hike to get to, the Imperial is a cosy, quiet place perfect for large groups or even just a few close friends. With its hearty food, cheap beer and hits from the 80’s streaming quietly through the speakers, this classic pub feels like a warm and friendly second living room. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (120kr). TJ6UILESW info@island-cafe.ee, www.island-cafe.ee. It works as a nondescript lunch café by day, but at night Island really comes into its own as a popular drinking lounge and warm-up spot for nearby clubs. The real hit seems to be the cocktail happy hour, which happens 20:00 - 23:00 daily. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. W www.joujaam.ee. Don’t miss your chance - it’s not every day you can drink in a pub with an electricity theme. At Power Station, you’ll find beautiful, framed photos of high-tension lines and power plants. The menu here includes ‘switching station specials’ and ‘the best burger in Estonia’. You be the judge. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Age restriction 18+. J6UIEW Depeche Mode C-2, Nunne 4/Voorimehe 4, tel. 644 Imperial Pub B/C-2, Nunne 14, tel. 62 74 805, pubi@ Bars of the world Why waste money on more world travel when you can see it all right from Tallinn - and get pleasantly intoxicated in the process? Arizona Saloon C-3, Viru 6, tel. 627 29 87, restoran@ Island Bar & Cafe G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 610 99 00, Vana Wiru C-3, Viru 11, tel. 669 15 10, pub@vanawiru. ee, www.vanawiru.ee. A no-nonsense, classic pub with hints of an Old Tallinn theme. Vana Wiru’s ideal, Viru street location that makes it a convenient stopping place for families to hunker down with their drinks. Check out the interesting jukebox selections. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. TJUGS arizonasaloon.ee, www.arizonasaloon.ee. Overpriced beer, tacky cowboy décor and a location on Viru tänav are evidently all it takes to pull in herds of unsuspecting Finnish tourists. Compared to the other traps on this street though, at least this one has nice furniture. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (180kr). TJ6US Juuksur B-3, Pikk 43/Vaimu 1, www.rampade.org. Juuksur is a stone cellar full of mismatched furniture and art nerds. The bar’s name means ‘hairdresser’s’, so naturally some of the chairs have old-style salon drying helmets hovering above them.Expect live bands on some nights and bottled beer. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. Admission 50-75kr. Age restriction 21+. J6ENX Kuku Klubi D-2, Vabaduse väljak 8, tel. 644 58 64, info@kukuklubi.ee, www.kukuklubi.ee. Reaching unmatched heights in retro shabbiness, Kuku is a lovably tacky cellar hangout where Tallinn’s old artists get loaded on red wine, talk philosophy, or on weekends, dance to 80s hits. You have to have a club card to open the door, but you can also just hang out by the door and wait. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. JILE hot.ee. Tallinn’s most grotty, seedy and all-around diviest dive bar. Students, Rastafarians and rockers alike congregate in this medieval cellar bar known for cheap drinks and uninhibited fun. Levist is usually people’s last stop of the night after drinking heavily elsewhere. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 06:00. Age restriction 18+. J6ENXW 44, tere@woodstock.ee, www.woodstock.ee. A cellar den for mostly fans of hard rock and other ‘extreme music.’ Judging by the décor, you might think you’ve entered the ninth circle of hell. In any case, you’ll feel out of place if you wear a beige jumper with a teddy bear on the front. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. 6UEXW Beer House C-2, Dunkri 5, tel. 627 65 20, info@beer- Jőujaam D-3, Väike-Karja 8, tel. 644 49 84, im@smail.ee, Estonian style Hellemani Kõrts Müürivahe 50, tel. 646 43 33/56 67 43 65, helleman@helleman.ee, www.helleman. ee. For some good-old-fashioned hospitality, attentive service and a fantastic location, the Hellemani, which is tucked inside the base of a fortification tower, impressed us. Great for groups or just a couple of friends who want a beer and snacks, the home-style food was simple but fulfilling. Oh, and if you’re looking for a modern rendition of a tin battle helmet it’s yours for just 500kr. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (100kr). J Karja Kelder C/D-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. 644 10 08, karjakelder@hot.ee, www.karjakelder.ee. A wellloved Old Town pub with a more relaxed, local feel than its expat-oriented neighbours, Karja Kelder is definitely one to seek out. The variety of cheap beer (and food) makes it a hit, as do the occasional live bands. One caveat is that it gets crowded in the evening, necessitating a totalitarian coat-check policy. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. JEW Traveller’s Pub and Club (Seiklusjutte maalt ja merelt) H-4, Tartu mnt. 44, tel. 601 07 63/601 house.ee, www.beerhouse.ee. So, how much German oompah music can you stand? This enormous, old-fashioned, Bavarian-style beer hall is something of a tourist trap. That said, the sprawling, multi-level restaurant just off Town Hall Square is also Tallinn’s only microbrewery, serving seven very decent in-house varieties. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. JUEX Levist väljas B-3, Olevimägi 12, tel. 50 77 372, vaari@ Emilio Hidalgo C-1, Lühike Jalg 9, tel. 644 98 33, Karoliina D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 05. This quirky little bar shaped like a tunnel and dug into the hill heading up to Toompea is excellent option for a secluded, quiet catch up with friends. Stretched cow skins and fake rose vines along the walls make an odd decorative combination. Try the Karoliina special - hot wine spiked with spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. J Kompressor C-2, Rataskaevu 3, tel. 646 42 10. Students in particular seem to be drawn to this simple, unassuming bar with oversized tables and cheap drinks. Kompressor is also locally famous for its excellent pancakes, which are both cheap and filling. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. J eha2006@hot.ee. After walking up the many stepped Lühike Jalg to Toompea, this is the perfect place to catch your breath, quench your thirst and grab a bite of reasonably priced and decently prepared Spanish-esque food. You’ll even find the service surprisingly smart and the view from the terrace during the warmer months is certainly something. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (125kr). 6W Woodstock E-2, Tatari 6, tel. 660 49 15/56 98 69 Texas Honky Tonk B-3, Pikk 43, tel. 631 17 55, texas@ texas.ee, www.texas.ee. Respectably busy (but rarely packed) on a given Friday night, Tallinn’s Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a corona while tapping your foot to the twangy country/rock or old blues played in the stereo. Monster portions of fries will kill even the worst munchies. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. J6IESW laia 33, tel. 631 58 31, info@revalhotels.com, www. revalhotels.com. Find the bowler hat on the sign and you’ll know you’re in the right place. The Reval Hotel Olümpia’s pub looks a bit like a cross between an English library and a cricket museum. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. ULXW info@lostcontinent.ee, www.lostcontinent.ee. This Aussie-style pub finally got rid of its inane and predictable ‘Wombat X-ing’ kitsch and turned the place into a kind of trendy lounge. It’s still a bit far from the centre to be a wildly popular nighttime hangout, but it nevertheless attracts a decent-sized crowd, and you can get a 5-litre Foster’s beer bong if your bladder needs a workout. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Wed 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. TEW Cigar lounges La Casa Del Habano C-2, Dunkri 2, tel. 644 56 47, lcdh@havanas.ee, www.havanas.ee. Owned by Estonia’s exclusive Cuban cigar distributor, this beautiful, casual Afro-Caribbean-style lounge has comfy chairs and a warm look. It’s a sensible place to stop for a Cohiba or a cup of Cuban coffee at the beginning or the end of your evening out. Friendly, professional service. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JEX baarid.ee, www.baarid.ee. Though strewn with off-theshelf Irish décor, O’Malleys’ character seems mostly derived from its high-traffic location at the foot of Viru tänav. It’s often packed by a transient, motley crowd of tourists and locals, many drawn in by the karaoke, live bands or sports events shown on the large-screen TV. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. JEW O’Malleys C-3, Viru 24, tel. 631 31 36, omalleys@ The Englishman Pub H-3, Reval Hotel Olümpia, Liiva- Pika Mündi C-2, Pikk 14 (corner of Pikk and Mündi), tel. 631 3209/58 24 05 18, pikamyndi@gmail.com, www. pikamyndi.ee. It touts itself as a restaurant, but Pika is kind of a cellar pub with table service… if you can call it service. The fare is what you’d expect from a pub, only with the prices of something far more refined and the only reason we can see for coming here would be the long running 2 for 1 beer special. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (200kr). TJS 07 62, info@seiklusjutte.ee, www.seiklusjutte.ee. Named for Estonia’s favourite collection of adventure stories, this popular local has a warm, airy, lodge-like feel - a sharp contrast to the nearby market area. There are plenty of maps and globes here to help you plan your expedition to Danger Island, or the Centre of the Earth or wherever. Big-screen TV and comfy chairs. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. IW The Lost Continent G-4, Narva mnt. 19, tel. 662 36 65, 631 47 35, info@cigarhouse.ee, www.cigarhouse.eu. The quiet, old-fashioned luxury at the Cigar House extends to wood panelling, a fireplace and busts of ancient Greek philosophers. If you want to sink into a leather sofa and sip expensive brandy, this is the place. A wide selection of Dominican and other cigars on offer. Q Shop open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Lounge open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Age restriction 21+. JIX Sigari Maja (Davidoff) C-2, Raekoja plats 16, tel. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 60 NIGHTLIFE Clubs club360.ee, www.club360.ee. Beyond the gum-chewing doorman lies this fairly recent addition to the Old Town club scene - a tiny, basement club that seems to pull in gaggles of Finnish nerd girls plus a few cool trendoids who are wondering how the hell they ended up here. The music is pop and the decor is standard modern. Anyone still curious should come by on a Wednesday or Sunday night, when entrance is free. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Age restriction 21+. Admission Fri, Sat 100kr. JX info@astoria.ee, www.astoria.ee. A theatrical 1930s look and a cigar room are the main features of this pricey little club that’s aimed at an older, upscale crowd. It’s relatively new and still trying to find its feet, but thus far, the only times we’ve seen any signs of life here were during special events, when we couldn’t get bar service for love or money. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00, Thu 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission 150kr. LEX NIGHTLIFE Hollywood D-2, Vana-Posti 8, tel. 627 47 70, bdg@ bdg.ee, www.clubhollywood.ee. If there’s one club in Tallinn that’s guaranteed to be jumping, it’s Hollywood, the mixing bowl for tourists and Tallinn’s young (repeat, young) party crowd. The dance floor features three large overhead video screens and raised platforms where scantily-clad go-go dancers jiggle to the beat. Wednesday night is the infamous Ladies’ Night - free entrance for ladies, hence a wall-to-wall meat market for the lads. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Age restriction 18+. Admission 50 - 100kr, special events 100kr+. LEX NEW 61 360º D-3, Müürivahe 22, tel. 631 33 60, club360@ Mr. Robinson C-4, Aia 10, tel. 627 36 00, info@mr-robinson.ee, www.mr-robinson.ee. Most Estonians avoid this little Russian disco on the edge of Old Town. Most Russians avoid it too for that matter. Not that there’s anything wrong with it per se, if you like cheesy Russian pop and fake jungle décor, that is. Everybody here seems to know everybody else, which limits the fun for outsiders. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. Admission 75kr, for ladies 35kr until 23:00. JLK Panoraam G-3, Ahtri 10, tel. 611 61 44, panoraam@ panoraam.com, www.panoraam.com. Panoraam is a two story disco a short walk from Old Town that places a heavy emphasis on its schedule of Estonian pop acts. When a good concert is on, it can draw hundreds of teenagers and a few lost and drooling easyJet travellers. Otherwise it’s about as exciting as a hotel lobby in Oslo. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission 100 - 125kr. Age restriction 18+. ULEXW Parlament H-3, Tartu mnt. 17, tel. 666 29 00, clubparlament@clubparlament.com, www.clubparlament.com. It’s like a slice of a Roman coliseum, meaning there’s three levels from which you can watch bleached nineteen-yearolds in tight jeans jiggling around on the sticky dance floor. They’d look older if they weren’t chewing gum. Overall, this is an enormous and popular club that frequently hosts bands and events. QOpen 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 75 - 125kr. Age restriction 18+. ULEXW Astoria Palace D-2, Vabaduse väljak 5, tel. 642 20 00, LoveSexMoney E-2, Tatari 1, club@lovesexmoney.ee, www.lovesexmoney.ee. Located in a former nightclub/bordello, LoveSexMoney is a mainstream-underground club geared to a somewhat affluent, more mature crowd who like to create, party and discuss social issues. Think ex-hipsters who now drive a BMW SUV but still like to paint while drinking a wheat-grass milkshake and listening to acid jazz remixes of Sting songs. By all accounts though, this should be a pretty cool place to have some drinks and while away the night. Q Admission 100kr. EXW BonBon B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. 661 60 80, info@bonbon. ee, www.bonbon.ee. Often packed to the gills, the trendy BonBon is where you’re most likely to find Tallinn’s beautiful set. It’s arguably the town’s most exclusive club, thanks to a higher than average ticket price and a clubcard-holders-only regime at the door when it’s crowded. The establishment sports a classically decadent look, with huge chandeliers and a portrait of Bacchus watching over the dance floor. Italians seem to like it, if that tells you anything.QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission 75 - 150kr. Age restriction 20+. EXW Bonnie & Clyde H-3, Liivalaia 33, Olümpia hotel, tel. 631 58 93, info@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels. com. Admittedly, it’s a hotel nightclub, but don’t write it off so easily. This one actually has a strong following and is likely to be packed on any given Friday night. The clientele here tends to be more mature than the teens that hang out elsewhere, and the music is always something you can dance to. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Happy Hour 22-23: All tickets and drinks -50%. Age restriction 21+. ULEXW Midnight munchies If you’re looking for food and drink after the pubs close, don’t expect much of quality. Here are some options. Burrito Bus Can be found on the corner of Viru street and Mere pst. Offering up the only, quasi-Mexican fast food in Old Town, this bus caters to those who are too drunk to understand what they are eating and likewise don’t care. Q Open most weekend nights. S Marat H-4, Tartu mnt. 63, tel. 603 32 93, info@klubimarat. ee, www.klubimarat.ee. If you’re the type who feels a little threatened by teeny-boppers jumping around to loud banging music, spun by DJs with names like ‘Tranz-Monkey’ this club will make you feel right at home. Situated in an old clothing factory, which manufactured ‘stylish’ Soviet-era undergarments for Estonians way back in the day, Marat may not be the coolest club we have ever been to, but it is something different for Tallinn. And who knows you might even get it on with someone your own age. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission 75 - 125kr. Age restriction 21+. UEXW www.inyourpocket.com pascha.ee. Dying for some döners done right? This kebab place is actually owned by real Turks, who as it turns out also prepare the food. Here you can find mouth watering pitas stuffed with loads of meat and veggies basted in several thick sauces or you can check out one of the many delicious pizzas also on offer. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. (75kr). S Pascha G-3, Narva mnt. 2, tel. 53 33 58 00, www. Söögiplats D/E-2, Tatari 1/Vabaduse väljak, tel. 680 93 80, amigo@amigo.ee, www.amigo.ee. Surprisingly hip and happening for a hotel club, Amigo attracts a good mix of Finnish tourists and local party animals who tend to be slightly older than the typical club monkeys. The big draw here are the live rock and blues bands - the country’s best-loved names - that play here almost nightly. Before bands come one, DJs spin all your favorite pop dance hits from the 70s-90s, and always manage to fill the floor with a cross-generational crowd. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission 75kr, Thu-Sat 125kr. Age restriction 21+.. JULEXW 05, info@uberclub.ee, www.uberclub.ee. Widely touted as Tallinn’s new destination for the ultra chic party set, Von Überblingen felt disappointingly mainstream when we visited. There was plenty of blingen, but it just wasn’t über. It’s set in a vast factory hall, which gives it that cool, post-industrial vibe and gives spectators on the balconies a view of the dance action below. A short taxi ride from the center. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission 100kr. LX Café Amigo C-4, Sokos Hotel Viru, Viru väljak 4, tel. 660 48 47, info@soogiplats.ee, www.soogiplats.ee. Truly one of Tallinn’s sketchier food choices, this all-night, drowned-in-questionable-sauce burger window serves up greasy fare to nightclub rejects and local drunks. Some ‘expats’ lovingly refer to it as ‘dirty burger’, but the management claims they are just as healthy if not a healthier alternative to the open-late kebab places. We’ll let you be the judge. Q 24hrs. US Club von Überblingen H-1, Madara 22a, tel. 660 88 The Old Club D-2, Suur-Karja 10, tel. 683 52 05, www.oldclub.ee. This fairly non-descript pub’s claim to fame is being open for all night dining and drinking. Main courses are available (in the 100kr range), but we recommend you stick to the French fries. Q Open 24hr. JX Turkish Kebab D-4, Estonia pst. 7, tel. 646 01 64, kebab.ee. Just a quick stagger from from most night spots, they serve up a pretty reasonable kebab and a whole host of other Turkish delights. QOpen 10:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Also at: C-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. 646 01 64. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (60kr). S Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 62 NIGHTLIFE NEW NIGHTLIFE were in Italy it would be called ‘Ragno’. Geared to a slightly older crowd, the multi-level Spider strictly enforces the 21+ rule... great news if you like your women a little more ‘experienced’. Seriously though, expect a lot of flat screen TVs, rump-shakin go-go dancers and a whole lot of music videos of your favourite, or someone’s favourite 90’s hits. QOpen 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission 100kr. Age restriction 21+. LX 63 Spider H-4, Tartu mnt. 17, www.clubspider.ee. If this club Adult entertainment Don’t expect to partake from afar. After performing on stage, dancers in Tallinn’s striptease clubs typically visit the tables, getting up close and personal to collect tips, usually 25 - 100kr. While between performances on the stage, other dancers will try to coax you into buying an expensive ‘ladies’ cocktail’, which is essentially a huge tip for sitting with you and making dull small talk. Terrarium A-4, Sadama 6, tel. 661 47 21, club@ter- Atlantida C-4, Aia 10/Inseneri 1, tel. 627 36 01, info@ rarium.ee, www.terrarium.ee. Despite the weird location out near Tallinn’s Passenger Port, this large club still manages to fill up both its dancefloors on weekends, drawing crowds of beauties away from long-established Old Town rivals. The attraction must be the full schedule of events. Aside from black painted walls and an overall modern look, Terrarium doesn’t seem to have any character as far as we could discern. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 50 - 75kr, Fri-Sat 100kr. LX NEW atlantida.ee, www.atlantida.ee. Tucked into the cellar of one of our favourite, inexpensive lunch spots, Atlantida happens to be one of Tallinn’s longest running gentlemen’s clubs. The atmosphere is intimate, the floorshows tantalising and who knows, when you come up for air you might even find yourself a mermaid. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Daily 09:00 - 18:00, 21:00 - 06:00 Admission 150kr. JX banhouse.ee, www.urbanhouse.ee. “Grab a fat chain, put around my neck, hell of a man and I’m gettin’ respect”. If ‘phat’ beats are the game, then Urban House is the name. Probably the only club in Tallinn dedicated entirely to this genre of music, expect some of the best hip hop and R’n’B DJ’s from Northern Europe and the occasional international artist too. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Admission 100 - 125kr. Age restriction 18+. ULEXW Urban House G-3, Ahtri 10, tel. 611 61 45, info@ur- Börsi Baar C-2, Lai 7, tel. 641 19 59, baar@solo.ee, www.borsibaar.ee. Börsi is the cheap alternative - that’s cheap in just about every sense of the word. The friendly, low-key, basement venue is popular with a few foreigners inthe-know. If you do acquiesce to splurging for a ‘ladies’ drink’ for your conversation partner, just make sure it’s not the 900kr champagne. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 50kr. J Can-Can Room D-2, Suur-Karja 10 (in The Old Club). Forget about sneaking into this place unseen - the entrance is inside Tallinn’s busiest late-night drinking hole. The club is decent enough, about average for Tallinn. If you’re going to splurge for a private dance, make sure you pay a little extra for the ‘erotic’ one. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 100kr. J Privé D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 45, info@clubprive.ee, www.clubprive.ee. Along with BonBon, the smaller Privé is considered one of Tallinn’s two trendiest club destinations. Heading here is a bit of a gamble though. If you hit it on the right night, it can be a very cool scene where you’ll hear the region’s best DJs, but on the wrong night it’s just another club full of fog and foreigners. QOpen 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 75 - 250kr. Age restriction 18+.. JLEX Venus C-4, Vana-Viru 14, tel. 641 81 84, venus@venusclub.ee, www.venusclub.ee. Rows of classical cherub statues added to an Arabian dessert motif may give the impression of a palace decorator gone mad, but the overriding mood at Venus is of serious partying and flirting by a mixed Russian and Estonian crowd. Special events - many with an erotic edge - happen almost weekly. If you land here on the wrong night though, the tacky pop dance music you encounter could be off-putting. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission 150kr, discount for ladies. JX Lasso B-4, Mere pst. 6a, tel. 661 61 99, www.lasso- baar.ee. Find Lasso among the touristy hotels in the port area. A man at the door may try to hustle you into going to a more, shall we say, ‘involved’ establishment elsewhere in town, but once you push past him, you’ll find a fairly standard striptease joint, with one long stage surrounded by sofas and the usual pricey drinks. If you opt for the private show, bring your nightvision scope. They like to keep it dark. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. Admission 100kr. (in Viru Centr e), tel. 610 14 30, inf o.tallinn@ seductiondiscotheque.com, http://w w w.seductiondiscotheque.com/tallinn. This t wo-level, chic and shiny, black and gold-themed discotheque under the Viru shopping centre gets surprisingl y packed (in a good way) wi th young local couples and a smattering of tourists. The cu tting-edge music spun by top DJs might range from hip-hop to house, depending on the night. Head downstairs for a more loung y experience. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. A ge restriction 18+. Admission 0 - 200kr. UXW Seduction Discotheque C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 Gay nightlife ee, www.clubangel.ee. Hands down, this is Tallinn’s hottest, most happening gay nightclub. It can also be the hardest club in Tallinn to get into. Groups, especially those with women, will have trouble getting past the strict door control on weekends. Small enough to stay packed and steamy, it features balconies, a men-only dark room and a diva at the bar. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Admi s si on 95 - 150k r. A ge re s t ri c ti on 18+. J6IXW Angel C-3, Sauna 1, tel. 641 68 80, info@clubangel. Mirtake C-3, Väike-Karja 1, tel. 644 30 06, info@ mirtake.ee, www.mirtake.ee. A stripper actually bit our friend when we were last here, and not in a friendly way. He still has the marks. Our private dances got progressively more expensive the more obviously drunk we got, and we all had to get second jobs to pay off our credit cards. Best avoided unless you’re rich and have had rabies shots. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00. Admission 100kr. J Mister XXX C-3, Müürivahe 23a, tel. 631 43 44. One of the most focused and experienced strip clubs in town (the owners have actually opened branches in Thailand), Mister XXX lures in punters with swirling, coloured lights and the occasional dancer pouting in the window. The place itself is small and plush, and the dancers are well trained to push you to spend, spend, spend. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. Admission 100kr. J 47, www.suiteclub.ee. Just across the street from the Hotel Olümpia, this classy and intimate men’s club offers up a comfortable place to ‘spend’ some quality time. You can lounge out on the sofas, sip on some expensive brandy and check out the attractive entertainment. Be aware though that prices here are a little above average, but then again so is your company. Private saunas also available starting from 300kr per hour. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 08:00. Admission 100 - 200kr. DX Suite Club H-3, Liivalaia 32, tel. 646 27 70/53 85 80 X Club D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 75/631 05 74, fax 631 05 74, info@xclub.ee, www.xclub.ee. By far the largest and most sophisticated club of this type in Tallinn, X Club is favoured by business types and high-end bachelor partiers. In addition to the main show room, an Oriental Room dazzles clients with bellydancing and waterpipes. Even the medievalstyle torture booth has nice décor. Friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. A good place for group events like stag nights or political conventions. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 75 - 150kr. JUL Sossi Klubi H/I-4, Tar tu mnt. 82, tel. 601 43 84, sossi@sossi.ee, w w w.sossi.ee. To understand Sossi, just imagine i t’s a cruise ship, bu t wi thou t the shu ffleb oard. This is wh ere Tallinn’s older set, and more than a few Finnish tourists, go when they feel the urge to get down and boogie. E xpect li ve acts on weekends, mostl y old Estonian rock ‘n’ roll favouri tes wi th wide reper toires and even wider bellies. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission Thu 75kr, Fri-Sat 125kr. A ge restriction Thu 18+, FriSat 21+. LEX Tallinn In Your Pocket X-Baar C-3, Sauna 1, tel. 620 92 66, www.zone. ee/xbaar. If you want to know everything there is to know about the local gay culture, come to Tallinn’s oldest gay bar. The unofficial command centre for the city’s gay scene, X-Baar has acquired a lived-in feel, but loyal customers (both men and women) keep it lively by jamming onto the tiny dance floor after midnight. QOpen 14:00 - 01:00. Admission free. J Soho D-4, Kaubamaja 3, tel. 681 46 16, club.soho@ mail.ee, www.soho.ee. Prominantly located right across from the Radisson, Soho is relatively big and busy, attracting its share of tourists and stag groups. It’s definitely one of the nicest of the genre with its artsy décor, but bear in mind that the ‘ladies drink’ the dancer wants you to buy costs 400kr. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Admission 150kr. October - November 2008 64 WINE CULTURE When most people think of Tallinn the thoughts of a carefully crafted and finely aged bottle of Chateau Margaux don’t immediately come to mind – perhaps this is about to change. Because of many years of Soviet occupation, the majority of Estonians considered fine wine to be either something for high ranking party members, or just something they could only dream about. For most, wine was a beverage made from grapes, often with added alcohol and other chemicals from such countries as Romania or Bulgaria. It was a fairly cheap beverage of low quality but they drank it anyway. Estonia has never been a place where grapes grow freely, but being a country full of berries and other colder climate fruits did enable the common man or woman to make wines out of fruit. Nowadays you can still find a selection of these wines in most grocery stores, they are usually on the sweet side and pair best with desserts. There are even a few grape growers in South Estonia who have started planting vines of hardy hybrid varieties in anticipation of this wine renaissance. Estonian grape wines may never enjoy the status of say a Bordeaux, but with global warming… it’s anyone’s guess. Now having enjoyed 18 years of independence, Estonians have a renewed interest in wines, even fine wines. They are discovering that experiencing a fine wine can be likened to that of a fine woman whose beauty is complex, mysterious and takes time to develop. Urvo Ugandi from the wine shop and bar Negossiant explains why Tallinners are now so into wine. “Travel has played a huge role in bringing the interest of wine to Tallinn. Over the past ten years, Estonians have been travelling quite a bit, often to wine regions. They take the vineyard tours, they sample the wines and want to take these romantic experiences back home with them”. WINE CULTURE Wine bars In recent years, wine bars have emerged as a sophisticated, mature alternative in this overly beer-centric town. 65 Gloria Veinikelder D-2, Müürivahe 2, tel. 640 68 04, vein@ gloria.ee, www.gloria.ee. The shop section is charming enough, but wind your way to the back rooms to find one of the Tallinn’s most elegant places to enjoy a good Merlot. An expert is always on hand to help you chose from the ca. 2000 wines, cognacs and whiskeys available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 18.00. JIS Il Gallo Nero C-2, Rataskaevu 4, tel. 646 21 07. Personality is everything, and that’s exactly what you’ll find at this cosy Italian food shop/café. The owners turn it into lively - albeit tiny - wine bar at night. They’ll mingle with you and may encourage you to sing along with the stereo.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JW This, in turn, drives the demand, not just for good quality wines but also for knowledge about how to pair the wines with food. For example, more and more regular customers are seen at the shop often looking for something new and exciting to take home with them. “The Estonian taste for wine seems to vary from year to year,” Urvo explains, “one year its Tuscan wines, the next it’s Rioja, and the next it’s a Bordeaux.” It all seems to depend on where the cheap trips were previously offered. Just take a look around Old Town and you’ll notice that wine shops, wine bars and restaurants with a big wine influence have popped up where only two years ago they did not exist, even the local grocery store always has at least a few decent wines to offer. It might even seem that there are too many wine establishments in Tallinn and with the demand for wine and wine knowledge growing, so too grows the demand for all things related to wine. “There is however one caveat,” explains Jennifer Mitchell a Californian wine expert and former Three Sisters Hotel wine bar sommelier, “It’s important that there’s an equal balance between midrange and high-end wines available.” Currently, the market seems to be flooded with either really pricey wines, or cheap wines, not so much in-between. Tallinners just don’t have the budgets to keep the high-end places in business but deserve to have great, affordable wines at their disposal. Adding further credit to the insurgence of wine interest in Tallinn, there is now a sommelier school which has opened up. It may not be on the same par as some of those in California, or Paris, but it’s a good start. Travellers should also certainly have a look at what’s on offer in Tallinn. No, you won’t find a ‘made in Saaremaa’ Pinot Noir to take back home with you as a souvenir, but what you will find is a really great selection of wines from the best regions in the world, some available for even a fraction of what a bottle might go for in Paris or London. Perhaps one of the local experts will even suggest something new and exciting for you to try, you might even stumble upon a new favourite. If you decide to take wine home with you, many wine shops will even ship cases within Europe and further afield, so don’t worry if you can’t fit a whole box into your suitcase. But the true romantic will want to experience one or more of the wine bars we have listed here. What better way to enjoy autumn in Tallinn than to sit back with your sweetheart, relax and enjoy a glass of your favourite grape together. “Tallinn In Your Pocket” would like to thank Urvo Ugandi and Jennifer Mitchell for all of their help in understanding wine culture in Tallinn. In Studio Vinum D-2, Suur-Karja 18, tel. 683 07 83, imre@ instudiovinum.ee, www.instudiovinum.ee. Large, chic and sparkling with flashes of decadence, this cellar ‘wine restaurant’ seems squarely aimed at Tallinn’s glitterati. Over 1,500 vintages are available to go along with the food menu, which includes mains (averaging 200kr) like guinea fowl and sea bass. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. J6LXW In Vino Veritas C-2, Lai 6, tel. 641 84 40, restoran@ invinoveritas.ee, www.invinoveritas.ee. A quaint little place, with an atmosphere that makes you want to settle in for a while. The menu isn’t huge, but the assortment of cheeses, pastas and fresh mains are pleasing to even the most fickle of tastes, and needless to say, the selection of wines here make it that much better. Dining in the wine cellar available for small groups. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (120kr). JI ilvi@hot.ee, www.kolmenaogamees.ee. Before entering this beautifully restored cellar bar, look way up where you will find its namesake, a small three-faced man who, like the building, dates back to the Middle Ages. Inside you will find the perfect combination of old world charm and modern style. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. J6EIW Kolme Näoga Mees C-2, Kuninga 1, tel. 648 42 61, Musi C-2, Niguliste 6, tel. 644 31 00, jaak@musi. info@oldestonia.ee, www.oldestonia.ee. Its location right on Raekoja plats makes this the most central and visible of Tallinn’s wine bars, but Old Estonia still manages to keep up a standard of personal and friendly service. The huge windows overlooking the square were just made for people-watching, or spying, depending on how you look at it. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. JUW Old Estonia C-2, Raekoja plats 8, tel. 641 21 83, ee, www.musi.ee. A popular little haunt. This one offers a romantic, old-fashioned front room and an equally cosy, but more modern and colourful back lounge. There’s also a menu of affordable light snacks. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. JLEW Taanilinna veinikelder C-3, Uus 6, tel. 640 67 00, Negossiant B-3, Lai 42, tel. 642 40 37, vein@negos- info@taanilinna.ee, www.taanilinna.ee. Quiet as a grave and well hidden under the Taanilinna Hotel, this tiny wine cellar is perfect if you’re hiding out from the police/the mob/your spouse, etc. Decent selection. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. JW siant.ee, www.negossiant.ee. Offering a huge selection of fine and rare wines, Negossiant, which doubles as a wine shop, is the perfect place for a romantic rendez-vous. The knowledgeable staff will help you find the perfect wine to please your palette. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JLSW Tervisex Wine Lounge B-4, Mere pst. 6e, 5th and 6th floor, tel. 660 18 18, vein@tervisex.ee, www. winelounge.ee. This elegant venue at the top of a building near the port is perfect for a casual glass, but the spectacular panoramic view of Tallinn from its upper floor might entice you to stay for a whole bottle. A separate cigar room is also available for those who prefer a cognac and a smoke. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 01:00. J6ULXW 630 63 00, info@threesistershotel.com, www.threesistershotel.com. The knowledgeable sommelier will guide you through the vast wine selection at the ultra-swank Three Sisters Hotel’s equally swank award winning cellar wine bar. Drop in to peruse the town’s longest list of wines by the glass, or attend one of their casual public tasting events. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. J Three Sisters Wine Bar A/B-3, Pikk 71/Tolli 2, tel. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 66 WHAT TO SEE Tallinn is a tourist’s dream. Just about all of the important sights, as well as the best restaurants, bars and cafés, are neatly packaged within the medieval walls of Old Town. WHAT TO SEE The Tallinn Card you’re trying pack the most into your time in Tallinn, consider picking up the city tourist office’s discount card, the Tallinn Card, good for 24hrs (350kr), 48hrs (400kr), or 72hrs (450kr). For kids 6 - 14, the price is reduced by 50%. Cardholders get a number of free city tours, free admission to all the city’s museums, unlimited use of public transport and all sorts of fun bonuses and freebies, like chocolate-covered marzipan and admission to Club Hollywood. A very well writen, fat booklet that comes with the card lists all the offers. There’s also a six-hour version of the card (no sightseeing tour included) designed for cruise ship passengers and anyone else blowing through town. It costs 130kr. The card is sold in major hotels, at the Estravel office in the airport, at the harbour info desk, and at the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre (Niguliste 2). For more details, consult the website at www.tallinncard.ee. 67 Lower Town Lower Town, the larger part of medieval Tallinn (or Reval as it was called back then), became a member of the Hanseatic League at the end of the 13th century. Goods from around the world came in through the port and were traded on the market on Town Hall Square. Reval operated autonomously from the rest of the Estonian territories right up until Tsarist Russian times. As in the rest of the country, the real movers and shakers in Reval society were the Baltic Germans, with Ethnic Estonians for most part second-class citizens. However, Estonian peasants from surrounding areas often escaped to the city, where they could eventually be considered free. The Old Town Dating back as far as the 13th century, the old section of Tallinn is what keeps most visitors occupied during their stay. The winding, cobbled streets of the medieval capital take you past half-hidden lanes, courtyards, spired churches and old, merchant houses. For centuries, what’s now the Old Town has been divided into two distinct parts: Toompea Hill, which was home to the gentry that lorded over the countryside, and Lower Town, which was a separate political entity with rights as an autonomous town. Tallinn Card www.tallinncard.ee. If Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats) C/D-2. As a Toompea Hill Climb Pikk jalg and you’ll find yourself on Castle Square (Lossi plats), smack-dab between the seat of the Estonian government at Toompea Castle and the 19th-century symbol of the Tsar’s power in Estonia, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. You are standing at the birthplace of Tallinn. Viewing platforms The Kohtuotsa and Patkuli viewing platforms are usually the first place that tourists want to see when they visit Tallinn. From here, sweeping views of the town, its red-tiled roofs, its towers, its walls and all of its charm open up. Get your camera ready. Toompea Castle D-1, Lossi plats 1. Built on the spot where the ancient Estonians’ wooden fortress stood before the 1219 Danish invasion, Tallinn’s castle served for seven centuries as the seat of power for the nation’s foreign masters. Now it houses the Riigikogu, Estonia’s parliament. On one corner of the castle you can see Pikk Hermann tower with the blue, black and white tricolour flag waving above it. It’s commonly recognised that whoever’s flag flies on top of this tower is the ruler of Estonia. The pink section you see in front is actually a baroque structure added in the 18th Centur y. For a more castlelike view of this building, head behind it, down the opposite side of the hill. Q Admission only with guided tour. 1, Lossi plats 10, tel./fax 644 34 84, nevsky@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/nsobor. Toompea’s dominating landmark is the Russian Orthodox cathedral named for the duke who attacked southeastern Estonia and Pskov in the early 13th century. Tsar Alexander III ordered the cathedral designed in 1894 by St. Petersburg master Mikhail Preobrazhensky and it was completed in 1900. According to legend, the cathedral was built on the grave of Estonian hero Kalev and has suffered structurally as a result. Be sure to duck inside for a glimpse of its fantastic interior. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Admission free. Toomkooli 6, tel./fax 644 41 40, tallinna.toom@eelk.ee, www.eelk. ee/tallinna.toom. Also called St. Mary’s Church, what might be the oldest church in Estonia was founded in 1219 by the first wave of Danish forces. The Gothic exterior dates to the 14th century, but the interior was rebuilt after the 1684 fire. The Baroque pulpit (1686) and organ loft (1780) are worth a look. As you enter be sure to step on the tomb of Otto Johann Thuve, who asked that his grave be placed in this humbling location, believing it would ‘wash away his sins’ in the afterlife. Please be considerate and visit after the Sunday service. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00 and in Latvian every third Sunday of the month at 13:00. Organ music Sat 12:00. Admission free. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral C/D- medieval market and a modern meeting place, Town Hall Square has been the heart of city life for eight centuries. With the Town Hall at your back, you can survey some of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in Tallinn. Hunt for a circular stone in the centre of the square marked with a compass rose, you can see all five towers from there. Dominican Monastery (Dominiiklaste klooster) C- Town Hall (Raekoda) D-2, Raekoja plats 1, tel. 645 79 00, raekoda@tallinnlv.ee, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda. The jewel in the crown of Old Town is unquestionably the Town Hall, the centre of civic rule from the Middle Ages to the early 20th century. Though a previous town hall stood here at least as far back as 1322, the imposing Gothic building of today dates to 1404. Old Thomas, the weather vane who symbolises Tallinn, has been keeping watch since 1530. Most of year you need to call ahead to arrange for a glimpse of the vaulted halls, however from July till August Town Hall is open for all visitors.QOpen 09.00 - 16.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 40kr. 11, tel. 631 48 60, raeapt@hot.ee. One of the oldest continuously running pharmacies in Europe is on Town Hall Square. No one knows exactly when it opened, but records show that the Raeapteek was already on its third owner in 1422. In Medieval times patients could buy mummy juice and burnt bees for treatment. Keeping up with the times, the pharmacy sells the usual aspirin and condoms, but part of the shop is also a museum, displaying old medical instruments and other curiosities. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. 3, Vene 16, tel. 644 46 06/51 554 89, info@kloostri.ee, www.kloostri.ee. One of Tallinn’s oldest existing buildings is this monastery founded in 1246. The part of the monastery administered by the museum includes the courtyard and surrounding passageways, where fascinating 15th- and 16thcentury stone carvings are on display. To see the inner rooms, visit the Claustrum, listed next.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Only by prior arrangement for groups. Admission 90kr. Dominican Monastery Claustrum C-3, Müürivahe 33, tel. 511 25 36, mauritanum@edu.ee, www.mauritanum. edu.ee. The monastery’s inner chambers such as the monk’s dormitory, priory, library, etc, can only be visited as part of an organised tour. One of the most interesting spots may be the downstairs room that houses the ‘energy pillar’ purportedly the source of a mysterious power. Open from May 15th through the summer, all other times only for groups. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 90kr. Niguliste Church - Museum C-2, Niguliste 3, tel. 631 43 30/tours 644 99 03, niguliste@ekm.ee, www.ekm. ee. Tallinn’s most famous work of art, a wall-sized fragment of Bernt Notke’s spook y, 15th-cen tur y masterpiecel Dance Macabre, has its home in this 13th-century Gothic church-turned art museum. Destroyed during World War II and rebuilt during Soviet times, the church now houses a fascinating collection of medieval religious art, with altars from the 15th and 16th centuries, a collection of Baroque and Renaissance chandeliers, and a ‘silver chamber.’ The church is also known for its acoustics - organ concerts are held here every Saturday and Sunday at 16:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 35kr. St. Olaf’s Church (Oleviste Kirik) B-3, Pikk 48, tel. 641 22 41, fax 641 22 16, info@oleviste.ee, www.oleviste.ee. St. Olaf’s 124m spire is a Tallinn landmark, and was the tallest building in Europe between 1549 and 1625. An old legend claims that the church was built to attract more merchant ships to the town by a mysterious craftsman who promised to work for free if the townspeople discovered his name (Olev). In reality, the church took its name from the canonised Norwegian king, Olav Havaldsson. The first mention of the church dates to 1267, but the interior dates to 1840 and reflects that era’s Historicist bent. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, 12:00, Fri 18:30 (prayer). Admission free. Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) C-2, Raekoja plats Dome Church (Toomkirik) C-1, View from the top 50, tel. 641 22 41, oleviste@oleviste.ee, www.oleviste.ee. This lofty church was the world’s tallest building between 1549 and 1625, when the spire burnt down after a lightning storm. The spire has long since been rebuilt, but no longer holds the world record. The tower’s viewing platform is open to the public from April through Nov. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 30kr. Holy Spirit Church (Püha Vaimu kirik) C-2/3, Pühavaimu St. Olaf’s Church Tower (Oleviste torn) B-3, Lai For art museum and gallery listings please check Culture section p.12 www.inyourpocket.com Tallinn In Your Pocket 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum.ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. Built 1475 - 1481, this 45m, six-storey tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV's cannonballs embedded in its walls to prove it. Medieval soldiers joked that from its top, they could see right into the kitchens of the houses below - hence the odd name. The tower now operates as a city museum (see History Museums). QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25kr. Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2, Komandandi 2, tel. 2, tel. 644 14 87, tallinna.puhavaimu@eelk.ee, www.eelk. ee/tallinna.puhavaimu. This awe-inspiring, 13th-century church adjacent Town Hall Square sports an impressive Baroque tower as well as an ornate, outdoor clock that’s said to be one of the most photographed objects in Tallinn. The real treasure however is the intricate, wood-carved interior, which includes Baroque pews and a Renaissance pulpit (the oldest in Tallinn). Founded by the Order of the Holy Spirit, the church was always close to the people - It was the most active in providing alms to the sick and poor, and it was here that the first sermons were given in Estonian after the Reformation. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00, in English 15:00 and in sign language 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month at 12:00. Classical music hour, Mon 18:00. Admission 10kr. October - November 2008 68 WHAT TO SEE Sightseeing tours Audioguide Old Town Tour tel. 655 66 33, info@audioguide.ee, www.audioguide.ee. On this self-guided tour, a specialised player provides customised narration (and sound effects!) on the history and architecture of key Old Town sights. Follow the map (provided) and set your own pace. Q Available for rent at Tallinn Tourist Information Centre for 300kr and at some large hotels. Free with Tallinn Card at the Information Centre. of interesting facts and exciting tales from Tallinn’s past. The audio guide is available at most major hotels throughout the city and the Tourist information centre (see Basics section), rent is 300kr for 24hrs. WHAT TO SEE Cats’ Well Cat’s Well B e fore you complain about the chalk y taste of Tallinn’s tap water, you might want to stop to consider what th e town’s Medieval residents had to put up with. This wheel well on the corner of Rataskaevu and Dunkri in the Old Town was once one of the main s ourc es of wa ter for th e Tallinn. According to legend, some of the locals got it into their heads that an evil water spirit lived in the well and threatened to make all the town’s wells run dry if it wasn’t given regular animal sacrifices. To keep the spirit happy, some cattle and sheep carcasses were thrown down the well, but the main victims were stray cats, who were rounded up and tossed, sometimes live, down the shaft. This practice was so common that the locals started calling this watering hole ‘Cat’s Well.’ In a sense, the sacrifices worked - the town’s wells never ran dry. But the practice of throwing animals down the well didn’t do much for the water quality, and the Cat’s Well had fallen into disuse by the mid 19th century. Rest assured that nowadays Tallinn’s water is much safer to drink, and the cats of Old Town no longer live in fear. 69 Town Fortifications With 46 towers, medieval Tallinn was known as ‘one of the most fortified burgs in all Northern Europe’. Today 1.85km of the original city wall and 20 towers survive. City Bike Tours Uus 33, tel. 683 63 83/511 18 19, mail@citybike.ee, www.citybike.ee. Bicycle tours of Old Town, Pirita and Kadriorg. Customised tours are available, in addition to the daily ‘Welcome Tours’ of Tallinn. Tours leave from the City Bike office in Old Town, Uus 33. Hotel pick-up by arrangement. New this year, ask about the cool and weird ‘Conference Bike’, it’s an experience the whole gang can enjoy. Reservations for all bikes and tours are a must during the summer. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 250kr covers rental, tour and a refreshing drink. Free with Tallinn Card. EstAdventures tel. 53 85 55 11, tours@estadventures. ee, www.estadventures.ee. This innovative outfit organises regular walking tours with fun themes like a sightseeing pub crawl called View with a Brew (250kr) which features selected ‘pit stops’ at local pubs. The company also offers out-of-town day trips to manor houses, castles and various communist relics such as Paldiski, home to the fascinating remnants of a Sovietera navy base. Tailor-made group tours can also be organised, advanced booking for all excursions are recommended. Euroaudioguide info@euroaudioguide.com, www.euroaudioguide.com. The newest audio guide to hit Tallinn allows you to give yourself a tour at your own leisure using an iPod, a map and your own two feet. The narration provides loads Hop-On Hop-Off City Tour tel. 627 90 80/53 42 99 68, info@citytour.ee, www.citytour.ee. This tour uses bright red, London-style double-decker buses to take tourists on several different routes through Tallinn. There’s a Red Line covering the town centre and Kadriorg, a Green Line connecting to Pirita, the TV Tower and the Botanic gardens, and a Blue Line that takes you to the Estonian Open Air Museum. Information for each location is provided in ten languages by Audioguide (see above), and riders can hop on and off at any stop. Q One-day ticket 250kr; two-day ticket 300kr, three-day ticket 350kr. ee, www.mobiletour.ee. For those who want a tour without the pesky tour-guides, the Mobile Old Town Tour offers up all kinds of information at the push of your cellphone button. Just look for the tiny mobiletour sign, dial 1219 and follow the instructions. Q One SMS has a fixed cost of 13.95 kroons (0,89€) to which the service cost of your network provider will be added. Reisiekspert, tel. 610 86 16, incoming@reisiekspert. ee, www.travel2baltics.com. The classic general tour of Tallinn, the Official Sightseeing Tour, is made up of two parts: a bus tour of the city that covers downtown and some of the more interesting outer areas, and then a walking tour of Old Town. The whole affair takes 2.5 hours. Two to three tours daily; see website for schedule. Pick-up at major hotels. Q The tour costs 300kr. Free with Tallinn Card. Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala B-2, Gümnaa- siumi 3, tel. 644 98 67, kodu.linn@mail.ee. Three of the oldest towers are open to the public, entrance at this spot. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed, Thu. Admission 15kr. Mobile Old Town Tour tel. 516 68 59, info@mobiletour. Tallinn Official Sightseeing Tour Roosikrantsi 19, tel. 601 3001, nele@kuukala.ee www.epping.ee. The focus of the museum inside this tower is an interactive exhibition that walks the visitor through the history and development of medieval defence systems. On display are items pertaining to the towers history, including suits of armour and complete maps of how the town looked during the 15th-century. QOpen only on weekends 12:00 - 17:00. Admission 50kr. Viru Gates C-3. The main entrance into Old Town is marked by these beautiful twin gate towers, which are only a fraction of a previous gate structure. The gate entrance was composed of a large tower, walls and the existing two towers. Unfortunately the larger inner gate towers were destroyed, but if you close your eyes we’re sure that you can picture what they would have looked like. Epping Tower Museum B-2, Laboratooriumi 31, Churches Tallinn’s most famous churches have already been listed in the Old Town pages, but here are several more churches for readers with a special interest. St.Nicholas’ Orthodox Church (Püha Nikolai Imetegija kirik) B-3, Vene 24, tel. 644 19 45. The Muutmise Kirik) B-2, Suur-Kloostri 14-1, tel. 646 40 03. Originally belonging to St. Michael’s Convent of the Cistercian Order (located next door and now housing the Gustavus Adolphus School), the church was given to an Orthodox congregation in 1716. The church has retained its original form, save the addition of a Baroque spire in 1776 and exterior renovations in the early 1800s. The carved-wood iconostasis is one of the most impressive of its kind. Q Services in Estonian Sat 17:00, Sun 10:00. Kaarli Church (Kaarli Kirik) E-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel. 611 91 00, tallinna.kaarli@eelk.ee, www.eelk.ee/tallinna. kaarli. Built in pseudo-Romanesque style on the site of a 17thcentury wooden church, Kaarli is an excellent example of the use of one of Estonia’s greatest resources - limestone. In all, construction took 20 years (1862 - 1882), but painter Johann Köler completed Estonia’s largest mural here, Come to Me, in just ten days. The church is also home to Estonia’s largest church organ. Q Mon, Fri 09:00-13:00, Tue, Thu 09:00-13:00, 14:00-16:00, Wed 09:0013:00, 14:00-18:00. Services in Estonian Sun 10:00. Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord (Issanda present Classical building dates to the 1820s, but a Russian Orthodox church stood here in the early 1400s. The young church houses many objects of artistic value predating it, including 16th-century icons. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Services in Russian Fri 17:30, Sat 09:30, 18:00, Sun 10:0. pauli@online.ee, www.katoliku.ee/. A relative newcomer as far as Tallinn’s houses of worship go, this pseudo-Gothic church was built in on the former refectory of the Dominican Monastery from 1841 - 1844. Drop by to look at the interior. If the door is locked, go to the office and knock. QOpen 17:00 - 19:00, Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 10:00. Services in Estonian Mon - Fri 08:00, Mon - Wed & Fri 18:00, Sun 11:30; in Russian Sun 18:00; in Latin Sat 08:00; in Polish Thu 18:00, Sun 10:00; in English Sat 18:00; in Lithuanian Sun 08:30 (1st week of the month) Sts. Peter and Paul Roman Catholic Church (Rooma Katoliku Kirik) C-3, Vene 18, tel. 644 63 67, peeter- St. Michael’s Swedish Lutheran Church (RootsiMihkli Kirik) D-2, Rüütli 9, tel./fax 644 19 38, rootsi- mihkli@eelk.ee, www.stmikael.ee/. Originally built as a hospital in the 16th century, St. Michael’s also housed a spinning factory where ‘fallen women’ worked. Then it was transformed into a church for local Swedes. After serving as a weightlifting room under the Soviets, the church was returned in 1993 to the Swedish congregation, whose efforts to fundraise for renovation of the church have paid off. Q The office is open after the service and Mon - Fri 10:00 -14:00. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 70 WHAT TO SEE Quirky museums Health Museum (Tervishoiumuuseum) B-2, Lai 28/30, tel. 641 17 30/641 17 32, thm@hot.ee, www. tervishoiumuuseum.ee. Tallinn’s school kids learn all about the human body at this old-fashioned and somewhat disturbing museum. On one floor, interactive displays teach younger kids all the systems in the human body (the gigantic model of a tongue is no doubt a big hit!), while the upper floor has photos and models designed to scare older kids away from ever using drugs or having children. Don’t visit before, during, or after lunch. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 30kr. WHAT TO SEE Speciality museums Estonian Maritime Museum (Meremuuseum) A-3, Fat Margaret Tower, Pikk 70, tel. 641 14 08, fax 641 14 14, info@meremuuseum.ee, www.meremuuseum.ee. Centuries of seafaring history, including models, charts and other artifacts, are displayed in this multi-storied museum housed in the 16th-century Fat Margaret cannon tower. Don’t miss the antique diving equipment or the view from the roof. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 40kr. Estonian Museum of Natural History (Loodusmuuseum) B-2, Lai 29a, tel. 641 17 39, muuseum@ 71 Marine Mine Museum B-3, Uus 37, tel. 641 10 04, info@ meremuuseum.ee, www.meremuuseum.ee. The signs out front read ‘Mines! Mines! Mines!’ while upbeat, military marching music plays over a loudspeaker. An interesting yet slightly creepy collection of marine mines salvaged from the Baltic Sea is now displayed at this museum complete with detailed English captions. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25kr. Patarei Prison F-2, Suur-Patarei, tel. 504 65 36, info@ patarei.com, www.patarei.com. This imposing, seaside complex in the Kalamaja district is now one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of Soviet-era prison life in all its dreariness. Originally opened as a sea fortress in 1840, it housed inmates from 1919 until 2004, and has been left virtually untouched since. Visitors can explore the hallways to see cells, work areas, exercise yards and the like. Please note that until May you can only tour the prison with a group. Arrangements must be made in advance, and the tour costs 900kr. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30kr. Tallinn Science and Technology Centre. The Energy Centre. A-3, Pőhja pst. 29, tel. 715 26 50, info@ loodusmuuseum.ee, www.loodusmuuseum.ee. All your favourite taxidermied Estonian animals (not to mention dried plants and mollusks) are on display in this three-storey museum designed to introduce nature to youngsters. Don’t miss the museum’s mascot, the biggest fish ever caught in the Baltics. Wherever you don’t see English-language placards, look for printed information sheets floating around. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 30kr. 1840 - 1940 period. Drop in to peruse the old Tallinn photos, recreated studio and antique cameras on display. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 15kr. Kloostrimetsa tee 52, tel. 606 26 66, aed@tba.ee, www.tba. ee. With the richest collection of live plants in Estonia, the gardens are a well-kept secret. Around 8,000 species are arranged on 123ha of land, with hothouse displays of tropical, subtropical and desert plants. Take bus N°34 or 38 to the Kloostrimetsa stop. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Open air collections are open 11:00 - 19:00. Call 606 26 66 for tours. Admission 45kr. Tallinn Botanical Garden (Tallinna Botaanikaaed) Kalev Marzipan Room C-2, Pikk 16, tel. 646 41 92. History museums fax 644 34 46, maarjamagi@eam.ee, www.eam.ee. The branch of the Estonian History Museum that covers the 19th and 20th centuries makes its home in this landmark house on the road to Pirita. Originally a summer house, this pseudo-Gothic ‘palace’ housed the Dutch consulate, a posh hotel, future pilots and the Soviet army, before being given to the History Museum in 1975. Excellent exhibitions on the War for Independence and the first Estonian Republic. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25kr. Estonian History Museum - Maarjamäe Palace (Maarjamäe Loss) F-6, Pirita tee 56, tel. 622 86 10, Estonia’s famous candy factory operates a tiny museum in the Old Town building where the company started back in the 19th century. There isn’t too much text, but visitors can get a look at the intricate, hand-painted marzipan creations. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Admission free. Raekoja tänav 4/6, tel. 644 87 67, foto@linnamuuseum. ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee. Back in the 14th century this building behind the Town Hall served as the town prison (as a visit to the cellar will show). Now it houses an extensive exhibition on Estonian photography, mainly devoted to the Museum of Estonian Photography C-2, City Prison, 30, fax 644 34 46, post@eam.ee, www.eam.ee. Housed in the Great Guild Hall, the museum’s exhibitions cover Estonia’s earliest history up through the 18th century, with text in Estonian, English and Russian. The building itself (built 1407 - 1410) is significant as the home of Tallinn’s union of wealthy merchants. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 25kr. J Komandandi 2, tel. 644 66 86, kok@linnamuuseum. ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok. This tower/museum is an excellent introduction to the history of Tallinn’s defences. Built 1475 - 1481, the 45m, six-storey cannon tower played a key role in the Livonian War and still has nine of Ivan IV’s cannonballs embedded in its walls. Three floors are reserved for contemporary art. And where did the tower get its name? Check out the voyeur’s view from the windows for yourself as you climb upward. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 25kr. Estonian History Museum - The Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) C-2, Pikk 17, tel. 641 16 energiakeskus.ee, www.energiakeskus.ee. Science made fun, or at the very least, a nerd’s paradise. Modelled after the famous Exploratorium in San Francisco, this hands-on museum is designed to demonstrate things like physics, optics and acoustics to the younger generation. There are also exhibits related to space exploration. Don’t miss the see-and-do displays downstairs. The museum building is a former power station, in operation from 1913 to 1979. Ring the bell to enter. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission 35kr. fax 641 81 66, info@tmm.ee, www.tmm.ee. Housed in the medieval Assawe tower, the museum hosts a weird and wonderful collection of musical devices, from ancient horns to old clavicords. Splurge another 100kr to get them to crank up a the curious mechanical music machines. Theatre is covered very minimally and text is mostly in Estonian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Archives open Tue-Fri 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 25kr. Theatre & Music Museum (Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) D-2, Müürivahe 12, tel. 644 64 07/644 21 32, Occupation history The Museum of Occupation and of the Fight for Freedom D/E-1, Toompea 8, tel. 668 02 50, fax 668 02 51, muuseum@okupatsioon.ee, www.okupatsioon.ee. In the period from 1940 to 1991, Estonia was occupied briefly by Nazi Germany and then for four and a half decades by the USSR. The history of this difficult period comes to life in this modern museum on the edge of Old Town. High-tech audio-visual displays and art installations add life to the museum’s artefacts and texts. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20kr. Kiek in de Kök (Peep into the Kitchen) D-1/2, Tallinn City Museum (Linnamuuseum) C-3, Vene 17, tel. 644 65 53/644 58 56, info@linnamuuseum. ee, www.linnamuuseum.ee. By far, the most modern and complete introduction to Tallinn. Appropriately built into a 14th-century merchant house, the City Museum houses elaborate displays, with English captions, demonstrating various aspects of Tallinn life through the ages. Through Nov 03, an exhibition entitled “Estonian National Leather Handicrafts 1918-1940”. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 35kr. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 72 WHAT TO SEE Fun for the whole family Estonian Open Air Museum Vabaőhumuuseumi tee 12, tel. 654 91 00/654 91 01, info@evm.ee, www.evm.ee. Nearly 100 farm buildings nestle on 80ha of forest in Rocca al Mare, on the shore of the Kopli Gulf. Informative signs in Estonian, Russian, English and German guide you through 150 years of farming history. Sample the pea soup and other traditional foods at Kolu Tavern (Kolu Kőrts). Take bus N°21 or 21b from the train station to Vabaőhumuuseum stop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Houses open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 80kr. Tallinn Zoo (Loomaaed) Paldiski mnt. 145, tel. 694 33 00, zoo@tallinnlv.ee, www.loomaaed.ee. Although not an overly large zoo, Tallinn’s animal garden boasts one of the most impressive collections of exotic species in Northern Europe. Birds of prey are to the left, Siberian tigers and polar bears are straight ahead as you pass the indoor viewing areas. Allthough the Elephant House is currently under renovations you can duck into the steamy, crocodile and chimpfilled Tropical House. Take bus N°22 or trolleybus N°6 from the Vabaduse väljak to the Zoo stop. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. In November open 09:00 - 15:00. (90kr, in Nov 50kr) A joint family ticket for the Tallinn Zoo and Open Air Museum is 199kr. 16, tel. 641 34 91, laste@linnamuuseum.ee, www. linnamuuseum.ee/lastemuuseum. Just as the name implies, this museum is a treasure trove of dolls, antique and modern. Small and geared toward kids, the museum proudly presents its permanent exhibition, Old Beloved Toys. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10kr. WHAT TO SEE Soviet Tallinn The first thing Tallinners did after regaining independence in August 1991 was to remove as many symbols of Soviet power as they could find, but a few humourously grotesque or sad reminders of that time are still with us. 73 Kadriorg Just a short westerly hike along Narva mnt. brings you to one of the most beautiful districts in all of Tallinn. Kadriorg is home to magnificent parks and gardens, the Presidential Palace and several art museums. This year Kadriorg is celebrating its 290th anniversary, and with it comes a lot of events and activities for the whole family. For further information and a full events calendar make sure to check out www.ekm.ee/eng/kadriorg.php. KGB Headquarters Pagari 1, at the corner of Pikk 59. Look for the building with the bricked-up cellar windows. It was here that perceived enemies of the regime were interrogated and either shot or sent to Siberian work camps. The plaque reads, ‘This building housed the headquarters of the organ of repression of the Soviet occupational power. Here began the road to suffering for thousands of Estonians.’ Interestingly, the KGB used the tall spire of the nearby St. Olaf’s Church to send radio transmissions. Linnahall F-3, Mere pst. 20. Built for the Olympics in 1980, this event centre and port is a perfect example of a much-criticised Soviet building practice - overuse of concrete. The hall can best be described as a cross between a parking garage and a somewhat flattened Mayan pyramid. Linnahall is easy to visit by foot since it’s so close to the centre. We suggest you hurry though, it’s crumbling rather fast. Maarjamäe War Memorial On the highway to Pirita. The pointed obelisk alongside the highway to Pirita Beach is part of the Maarjamäe War Memorial complex, a cement-filled park similar in its imposing style to other large complexes created in the USSR in the 1960s and 70s. The spire was put up in 1960 in memory of Russians who died in 1918, while the surrounding inspirational concrete and iron figures were added in 1975 to honour Soviet soldiers killed trying to fend off the Nazis in 1941. Presidential Palace G-5, Weizenbergi 39. For a few years during Estonia’s first period of independence (1918 - 1940), the Estonian head of state worked out of the Kadriorg Palace, but in 1938, this purpose-built presidential palace was opened next to it, just up the hill. The Presidential Palace’s style echoes the Kadriorg, albeit without quite so much flourish. Since the building once again serves as the President’s office and residence, it’s closed to visitors, but you can still wander into the parking area for a better view and, if your timing is lucky, you’ll see the honour guards marching out front. Kadriorg Palace G-5, Weizenbergi 37, tel. 606 64 00, fax 606 64 01, kadriorg@ekm.ee, www.ekm.ee. Italian master architect Niccolo Michetti designed this magnificent, Northern Baroque palace in 1718 at the request of Russian Tsar Peter the Great, who intended to use it as a summer residence for the royal family. The emporer named the estate for his wife Catherine I (‘Catherine’ is ‘Kadri’ in Estonian), hence the name of the area. The palace is now home to the Kadriorg Art Museum. In addition to perusing the nation’s collection of foreign art, visitors get to see the mind-bogglingly ornate Great Hall, and the room upstairs that served as president’s office in the 1930s. Don’t miss the lavish manicured gardens, out back. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 55kr. Ruined beauty St. Bridget’s Convent Ruins (Pirita klooster) Kloostri tee 9, tel. 605 50 44/58 17 35 60, lagle@osss. ee, www.piritaklooster.ee. Rising up along the banks of the Pirita River, the spectacular ruins of this 15th-century convent make one of Tallinn’s more fascinating historic sights. Founded in 1407 by the Bridgetine Order, the convent was unique in that it housed both monks and nuns. The convent crumbled in a siege by Ivan the Terrible in 1577 and its stones were later carted off to construction projects throughout Tallinn. What remains today are the towering Gothic gable and walls of the main hall, as well as some surrounding foundations and cellars. Take bus N°1, 8, 34A or 38 from Viru väljak to the Pirita stop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. In November 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 20kr. Park and Swan Pond G-4 . The entire leafy park northeast Doll Museum (Lastemuuseum) A-1, Kotzebue Naval Officers’ Club C-4, Mere pst. 5. This imposing Stalin-era building on the edge of Old Town was built in 1952 as a recreational club for Soviet officers and is now home to the Russian Cultural Centre. Not only is the building one of the last to sport a sickle and hammer on its facade (look way up high), it’s also retained many of the traditional, propogandistic design elements in the interior. of Weizenbergi is criss-crossed with paths, perfect for a wandering visitor. The forest includes several horse chestnuts planted here in 1722 that were supposed to be replanted later in St. Petersburg, but never were. The most visited spot here is the recently renovated Swan Pond, an artificial, rectangular pond with a picturesque gazebo in the middle. It looks like something out of a Chekhov play, and is a required stop on any tour of Kadriorg. Bring plenty of film for the camera and food for the ducks and swans. The Bronze Soldier (Aljosha) I-3/4, Filtri 13, Estonian Museum ships Lembit and Suur Tőll F-2, Küti 15a, tel. 641 14 10/641 14 08, katrin@meremuuseum.ee, www.meremuuseum.ee. Maritime buffs and anyone interested in history will want to seek out Tallinn’s old sea-plane port (Lennusadam), home to the Maritime Museum’s ships. One of the most fascinating is the Lembit submarine, launched in England in 1936, which served in Estonia’s navy before the Soviet invasion. Its interior is original, and visitors can examine the torpedo tubes and cramped bunks. The Suur Tõll is the world’s largest surviving steam-powered icebreaker and, since its launch in 1914, has spent decades keeping the Baltic waterways clear. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 60kr. Tallinn In Your Pocket Defence Forces Cemetery. Erected in 1947, this world-famous monument was originally located in front of the National Library and commemorated Soviet soldiers who died fighting in WWII, and from the point of view of locals, occupying Estonia. It served as a kind of ‘tomb of the unknown soldier,’ at one point having an ‘eternal flame’ burning in front. After the Soviet Union fell, the monument was one of the few of its kind to survive, mainly due to objections by the local Russian-speaking population. The plaques that now flank the soldier simply read ‘For those fallen in World War II’ with no reference to nationality. Due to huge and destructive clashes between police and drunken demonstrators largely from Russia, the statue was relocated to the Defence Forces cemetery in the spring of 2007. Visitors to Tallinn can even find Bronze Soldier related t-shirts, DVDs and other memorabilia dedicated to these events. Tunnels under Tallinn Legends, secrets and underground passages, the tunnels aren’t just for rats anymore, now you can tour them, too! Built in the 17th-century by the Swedes to help protect the city, these tunnels are a facinating relic of times past. Tours (by arrangement) run from 11:00 - 16:00, every day except Monday. For booking, contact Kiek in de Kök tel. 644 66 86. Adults 50kr, children 25kr. Bring warm clothing as the tunnel temperatures are 6 to 8 degrees. October - November 2008 74 GETTING AROUND Car rental Sun. Also at: J-5, Tallinn Airport, tel. 605 82 22. Open 08:45 - 17:45. Budget J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. 605 86 00, rent@budget.ee, airport@budget.ee, www. budget.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Bulvar H-3, Regati 1, tel. 503 02 22 , info@bulvar.ee, www.bulvar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. GETTING AROUND R-Rent J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tal- 75 Taxis Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next the Drama theatre just outside Old Town, but grabbing a taxi on the street, especially those parked in Old Town, is the best way to get ripped off. Always check the prices first, which should posted on the taxi’s right rear window. These consist of a base fare of usually 35 - 45kr plus two perkilometre rates (one for daytime, one for night) which should normally be around 7 - 10kr. When in doubt, you can agree on a price to your destination with the driver before you get in. Ordering a taxi by phone is always the best strategy, as you’ll avoid the dishonest taxis that prey on tourists. Here is a list of taxi companies along with their daytime base fares and per-kilometre rates. Night time rates can be about 20% more. Public transport Tallinn’s public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trollybuses and trams, all of which use the same tickets. Trams provide the simplest way to get around downtown areas, whereas buses are mainly for getting to outlying neighbourhoods. From the centre, most major bus routes leave from the new terminal under the Viru Keskus, or from Vabaduse väljak. You can easily pick up trams in several places adjacent Old Town - check our handy transport map in the back of the guide. Routes and schedules are also listed in English on the www.tak. ee website, and detailed route maps are posted at most bus stops. When climbing on board, in 98% of cases, you can just hop on any door, i.e. you don’t have to show your ticket to the driver. The rare exception is a few buses that have ‘no-entry’ signs on their rear doors. If you see this sign and the door doesn’t open, head to the front and punch your ticket/show your pass to the driver. Tickets are otherwise checked by inspectors who jump on at random stops. In our experience, inspectors appear very rarely, but in theory they could show up any time. In other words, don’t blame us if you get nailed. The fine for ‘riding like a rabbit’ - as locals call it - is 800kr. Tickets: The same tickets are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket, or talong. Buy one from nearly any kiosk for 13kr (a book of ten tickets is only 90kr) or from the driver for 20kr. Once you’re on board, punch your talong to validate it. Slide it into the green-topped ticket punch and pull the top towards you. Other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are only sold in kiosks. These include a 1hr (18kr), 2hr (24kr), 24hr (55kr) and tourist-convenient 72hr (100kr) ticket. These need to be validated the first time they’re used - find the modernlooking ticket punch with digital time clock on board the vehicle (usually by the centre door). Long-term visitors can also opt for a 10-day (200kr), 30-day (415kr) or 90-day (1100kr) pass. Avis H-3, Liivalaia 13/15, tel. 667 15 15, rent@avis. ee, www.avis.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, linn Airport, tel./fax 605 89 29, tel. 50 36 446 (24h), info@rrent.ee, www.rrent.ee. Prices starting from 500kr/day. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. 605 80 30, info@europcar.ee, www.europcar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at G-5, Narva mnt.7, tel. 610 93 17. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Europcar J-5, Lennujaama Sir Autorent H-3, Juhkentali 11, tel. 661 43 53/56 51 353 , sirrent@ online.ee, www.sirrent.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sixt J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. 605 81 48, rent@sixt.ee, www.sixt.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at D-4, Rävala pst. 5, tel. 888 36 60. Open 09:00 Evison J-5, Lennujaama 2, Tallinn Airport, tel. 667 46 QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 95/50 50 700 , airport@evison.ee, www.evison.ee. For the motorist If you’re driving in Estonia for the first time, here’s what you need to know: traffic signs and laws follow general European standards. The law requires use of seatbelts and headlights at all times. Small children must sit in child seats. You must have a valid license (with photo), your car’s registration and proof of insurance with you in the car, as well as a letter of authorisation if you are not the owner of the vehicle. In pretty much all cases, your driver’s license from back home will work fine. Please note that the speed limit on highways is 90km/h and in the cities 50 km/h, unless otherwise noted. Klubi Takso , tel. 14 200/638 06 38, takso@klubitakso.ee, www.klubitakso.ee. 40kr + 7.70kr/km. Q N Krooni Takso , tel. 1212/638 11 11, takso@kroonitakso.ee, www.kroonitakso.ee. 40kr + 7.50kr/km. Q N Linnatakso , tel. 1242/644 24 42, linnatakso@spin. Airport, tel. 605 89 23, fax 605 89 53, airport@hertz.ee, www.hertz.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Also at G-3, Ahtri 12, tel. 611 63 33. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hertz J-5, Lennujaama tee 2, Tallinn www.inyourpocket.com ee, www.linnatakso.ee. 45kr + 9.40 - 11.80kr/km. Also provides taxis for disabled passengers. Peretakso , tel. 16111/646 00 06, peretakso@peretakso.ee, www.peretakso.ee. 75kr + 12-15kr/km Reval Takso , tel. 621 21 11/526 41 11, info@revaltakso.ee, www.reval-takso.ee. 35kr + 7kr/km. Q N Sőbra Takso , tel. 53 47 44 74/621 50 80, info@ sobratakso.ee, www.sobratakso.ee. 37kr + 7kr/km QN Silver Takso , tel. 15 222/627 88 50, info@silvertakso. ee, www.silvertakso.ee. 45kr + 7.80kr/km, maxi taxi 65kr + 11kr/km. Q N Tallink Takso , tel. 1921/640 89 21, www.tallinktakso.ee. 48kr + 10.90 - 13.50kr/km, maxi taxi 65kr + 12.50 - 15.00kr/km. Tulika Takso , tel. 1200/612 00 00, takso@tulika.ee, www.tulikatakso.ee. 45kr + 9.40 - 11.80kr/km Viiking Takso , tel. 601 43 33/53 44 11 11, www. viikingtakso.ee. 30kr + 7kr/km, maxi taxi 60kr + 14kr/km. QN Towing service Eesti Autoklubi Laki 11, tel. 1888/697 91 88, eak@ autoclub.ee, www.autoclub.ee. For help in any kind of road emergency anywhere in Estonia. Q Open 24hrs. Parking Tallinn is so centralised and pedestrian-friendly that there’s absolutely no reason to bring a car. If you happen to be here with your own set of wheels though, keep in mind that finding parking in downtown Tallinn, especially during working hours, can be a pain. Public parking on streets in the town centre, as well as a few streets in Old Town, costs 16 - 72kr/hour, depending on the zone. Look for posted signs to tell you the price and the hours/days that paid parking is in effect. Some city centre areas require you to pay even at night. Buy per-hour parking passes from streetside vending machines or kiosks, and be sure to leave a parking clock (or barring that a written note) on your dashboard to mark the time that you first parked. If all this sounds too complicated, you can just use the following guarded parking lots/garages: EuroPark H-3, Tar tu mnt. 16b, tel. 661 02 23, europark@europark.ee, www.europark.ee. 30kr/hr. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Kaarli parking D-1, Kaarli pst. 2, tel. 1669, infi@yhisteenused.ee. 36kr/hr. Rävala Parking House D-4, Kuke 6 (entrance at Rävala pst), tel. 646 60 33. 30-35kr/hr Q Open 24hrs. Viru Centre C-4, Viru Väljak 4, tel. 610 14 44, www. virukeskus.com. 25kr/hr. Q Open 24hrs. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 76 GETTING AROUND Ferries The vast majority of visitors travelling onward from Tallinn go by ship, and it’s no wonder - the city has excellent, affordable ferry connections to Helsinki and Stockholm. On the Tallinn-Helsinki route, you have the choice between large car ferries, which make the crossing in about four hours, and fast ferries (hydrofoils and catamarans), which usually take only 1.5 hours, but are seasonal and don’t run in all weather conditions. Ferries leave from various terminals of the city’s two passenger harbours, clustered just outside Old Town (see our map). GETTING AROUND Ferry companies 60 00, fax 664 60 01, info.ee@eckeroline.ee, www. eckeroline.ee. Large car ferry Nordlandia. Adult single tickets starting at 300kr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:30. Reservations and information by phone 08:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Lindaline F-3, Mere pst. 20e, tel. 699 93 33, fax 699 93 30, info@lindaliini.ee, www.lindaliini.ee. Hydrofoils. Adult single tickets 455kr, 610kr and 920kr, depending on class. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Nordic Jet Line F-3, Terminal C, Passenger Port, tel. 613 70 00, booking@njl.ee, www.njl.info. Auto catamarans. Adult single tickets 435 - 735kr. Business class 1125kr. Discounts for children, students, and seniors. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:30. Reservations and information by phone 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. SuperSeaCat F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. 610 00 00, fax 610 00 11, booking.tallinn@superseacat.com, www.superseacat.com. Two large car/passenger catamarans. Adult single tickets 410 - 590kr, first class 970kr. QService centre in Viru Centre open 09:00 - 21:00. Reservations and information by phone 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 (from Nov 03, 08:00 - 19:30, Sun 12.00 - 19.30). Tallink G-3, A. Laikmaa 5, tel. 640 98 08, fax 611 88 95, booking@tallink.ee, www.tallink.ee. Large and fast car ferries. Adult single tickets 360 - 595kr. To Stockholm from 1868kr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Viking Line F-3, Terminal A, passenger Port, tel. 666 39 66, fax 611 66 39, booking@vikingline.ee, www. vikingline.ee. Large car ferries Rosella and Viking XPRS. Adult single tickets 330 - 515kr. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sun 06:30 - 16:30. Reservations and information by phone 08:30 - 16:00, Sun 08:30 - 14:00. 77 Eckerö Line F-3, Terminal A, Passenger Port, tel. 664 Airport Tallinn International Airport (Lennujaam) J-5, Lennujaama 2, tel. 605 88 88 , fax 605 84 33, info@tll.aero, www.tallinn-airport.ee. Tallinn’s airport is a modern affair, but still so small there’s never a worry about getting lost. Officials recommend you arrive 1.5 hours before your flight. Estonian Air check-ins close 35 minutes before take-off. A taxi ride from the centre roughly costs 125kr and takes between 10 and 20 minutes. You can also take bus N°2 (marked Lennujaam - Mőigu) from the ‘A. Laikmaa’ stop, just outside to the downtown Viru Centre on its east side. Linnahall (Linnahalli kiirlaevade sadam) F-3, Mere pst. 20, tel. 699 93 33, info@lindaliini.ee, www.lindaliini.ee. Only Lindaline hydrofoils, which operate exclusively in warmer months and in good weather conditions, leave from this Soviet-era concrete wonder. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Ticket office open 1 hr before first departure. Passenger Port, Terminal A (Reisisadam) F-3, Sa- dama 25, tel. 631 85 50, ts@ts.ee, www.portoftallinn. com. Nearly all ferry companies use the Passenger Port, which is divided into terminals A through D. All Tallink ships use D-Terminal. Q Information open 07:00 - 22:00. Ferries to Helsinki From Tallinn Days 123456– 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 123456– ––––––7 123456– 1––4567 ––––5–7 1234567 1234567 123456– 1234567 1234567 –––––6– 12345–– –––––67 ––––5–– 1234–67 ––––5–– 1234–67 –––––6– 12345–– ––––––7 ––––567 1234––– ––––567 ––––––7 123456– Dep. 07:30 11:00 13:00 14:00 17:30 21:00 17:30 08:00 18:00 16:30 07:45 10:30 14:00 16:15 19:30 10:30 15:00 19:30 08:00 10:00 12:00 14:00 16:00 18:00 20:00 10:00 11:00 12:00 16:00 19:00 20:00 16:00 17:00 Arrival 09:30 13:00 16:30 16:00 19:30 23:00 19:30 10:30 20:30 19:00 09:25 12:10 15:40 17:55 21:10 12:10 16:40 21:10 09:30 11:30 13:30 15:30 17:30 19:30 21:30 11:30 12:30 13:30 17:30 20:30 21:30 19:30 20:30 Terminal D D D D D D D A A A A A A A A A A A Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall Linnahall A A Helsinki Ship Terminal Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi Star/Superstar (T allink)* Länsi Baltic Princess (Tallink) Länsi Star/Superstar (T allink) Länsi Star/Superstar (T allink)* Länsi Star/Superstar (T allink) Länsi Star/Superstar (Tallink) Länsi M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka M/S Viking XPRS Katanajokka SuperSeaCat** Makasiini SuperSeaCat** Makasiini SuperSeaCat** Makasiini SuperSeaCat** Makasiini SuperSeaCat** Makasiini SuperSeaCat*** Makasiini SuperSeaCat*** Makasiini SuperSeaCat*** Makasiini Lindaline# Makasiini Lindaline# Makasiini Lindaline# Makasiini Lindaline# Makasiini Lindaline# Makasiini Lindaline# Makasiini Lindaline# Makasiini Lindaline## Makasiini Lindaline## Makasiini Lindaline## Makasiini Lindaline## Makasiini Lindaline## Makasiini Lindaline## Makasiini Makasiini Lindaline## M/S Nordlandia Länsi (Eckerö) M/S Nordlandia Länsi (Eckerö) M/S Nordlandia Länsi (Eckerö) To Tallinn Dep. Arrival 10:30 12:30 14:30 16:30 18:30 22:00 17:30 19:30 22:00 00:00 07:30 09:30 21:00 23:00 11:30 14:00 21:30 00:00 20:00 22:30 08:00 09:40 10:30 12:10 13:00 14:40 16:40 18:20 18:50 20:30 08:00 09:40 12:50 14:30 17:20 19:00 08:00 09:30 10:00 11:30 12:00 13:30 14:00 15:30 16:00 17:30 18:00 19:30 20:00 21:30 08:00 09:30 09:00 10:30 10:00 11:30 12:00 13:30 14:00 15:30 17:00 18:30 18:00 19:30 08:00 11:00 08:00 10:30 11:30 13:30 Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 123456– 1234567 1234567 123456– ––––––7 123456– 1––4567 ––––5–7 1234567 1234567 123456– 1234567 1234567 12345–– –––––67 12345–– –––––67 ––––5–– 1234–67 ––––5–– –––––6– 12345–– ––––––7 –––––6– ––––5–7 1234––– ––––567 12345–– –––––6– ––––––7 Airline offices 630 93 96, sales.tll@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Air I-5, Lennujaama 2, at the Airport, tel. 640 11 60, fax 640 11 61, lennukas@estonian-air.ee, www. estonian-air.ee. QOpen 04:20 - 21:00, Thu 04:20 - 22:00, Sat 05:30 - 15:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:00. Also at: H-2, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. 640 11 60. Open 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sat, Sun. Finnair E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. 611 09 50/611 09 46, fax 611 09 45, finnair@finnair.ee, www.finnair.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. LOT Polish Airways handling agent Estravel J-5, Tallinn Airport, tel. 605 83 55, fax 605 89 42, airport.team@ estravel.ee, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Lufthansa D-4, Rävala pst. 6, tel. 681 46 30/681 46 31, fax 681 46 32, tllteammailbox.ga@dlh.de, www.lufthansa. com. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines D-4, Rävala pst. 5, tel. 630 93 97, fax Travel agencies in Estonia Estonian Holidays D-2, Rüütli 28/30, tel. 627 05 20, fax 627 05 01, reisid@holidays.ee, www.holidays.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Estravel D-2/3, Suur-Karja 15, tel. 626 62 66, fax 626 62 62, ikontor@estravel.ee, www.estravel.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Kaleva Travel I-2, Pärnu mnt. 67b, tel. 640 77 10, fax 640 77 11, puhkus@kalevatravel.ee, www.kalevatravel. ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mainedd C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel./fax 644 47 44, tel. 641 82 85, mainedd@hot.ee, www.mainedd.ee. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Reisiekspert E-2, Roosikrantsi 19, tel. 610 86 26, tallinn.roosikrantsi@reisiekspert.ee, www.travel2baltics.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: D-3, Pärnu mnt 12, tel. 610 86 66, tallinn.kesklinn@ reisiekspert.ee. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Wris Travel Agency H-2, Narva mnt. 7d, A wing, tel. 612 91 30, fax 612 91 29, kesk@wris.ee, www.wris.ee. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Helicopter Copterline F-3, Linnahall, Mere pst. 20, tel. 610 18 18, fax 610 18 19, contact@copterline.com, www. copterline.com. Copterline runs a fast passenger link between Tallinn and Helsinki. The flight takes 18 minutes to cover the 85km between two capitals. The price structure is fairly complicated, but one-way tickets during the week cost about 2,000kr. Cheaper non-changeable tickets are also available, starting from 1343kr. Tallinn’s helicopter terminal is the flat roof of the Tallinna Linnahall concert arena near the Tallinn passenger port. The opposite terminal is in Helsinki’s Hernesaari port, a five-minute taxi ride from town. QOpen 07:00 - 20:30. Sat 09:00 - 17.30, Sun 10:00 – 16:30. Check website for schedules and prices. Ferries to Stockholm Days Dep. Arrival Terminal Ship Terminal Dep. Arrival Days To Stockholm From Stockholm 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 10:00* D Romantika/Victoria I (Tallink) Frihamnterminalen 18:00 10:00* 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 *arrival on next day. * Schedule valid until October 26. ** Schedule valid until November 02. *** Schedule valid from November 03. # Schedule valid until October 06. ## Schedule valid from October 07. Schedule valid as of September 17, 2008. Please note that “Tallinn In Your Pocket” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 78 GETTING AROUND Buses If you’re travelling city-to-city in the Baltics and you don’t have your own car, the bus is definitely the way to go. It’s also a good way to meet local students. Connections are frequent and cheap, allowing you to cross the country for the same money you might spend on a taxi in Tallinn. taking city trams N°2 or 4 from the centre to the Bussijaam stop. QOpen 06:30 - 21:00. GETTING AROUND Trains Train travel in Estonia has not gained the popularity it has elsewhere in Europe. The only real international connections are to points east (Moscow and beyond), and forget about taking the train to Riga or Vilnius. It is, however, possible to get to Tartu and other Estonian cities by rail. Three separate companies cover Estonia’s train system: GoRail (www.gorail.ee) handles international, Edelaraudtee’s trains (www.edel.ee) are inter-city, and Elektriraudtee (www.elektriraudtee.ee) does the local electric trains. 79 Ecolines I-4, Masina 22, tel. 614 36 00/56 37 79 77, Bus Station (Tallinna Bussiterminal) H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. 12550, www.bussireisid.ee. Tallinn’s small bus station is still a depressing Soviet-era relic, but improvements are being made and services are fairly efficient. Tickets are available inside the station or from the driver. (Let ticket-holders get on the bus first.) Ticket prices depend on the bus company and route. On international routes it is advisable to reserve or buy your ticket in advance. On internal routes this is generally not necessary, however there are exceptions: On Fridays and Sundays buses to popular weekend destinations like Pärnu or Tartu tend to fill up quickly, so buying your ticket earlier in the day will guarantee a spot. Get to the station by ecolines@ecolines.ee, www.ecolines.ee. A large bus company with routes throughout the Baltics and Europe. Ecolines is generally cheaper (in many senses of the term) than Eurolines. Conveniently you can book and pay for tickets via the internet then print out the ticket yourself, saving a trip to the ticket office. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. 680 09 01, info@eurolines.ee, www.eurolines.ee. Eurolines runs most international bus routes from Estonia. Seats on all routes can be reserved up to 24 hours in advance by calling ahead, though getting through to the office requires persistence. As with Ecolines, you can also buy tickets from the website and print them out. Find the office on the bus station’s second floor. QOpen 06:30 - 23:30. Eurolines H-4, Lastekodu 46, tel. 680 09 09, fax Balti Jaam (Train Station) B-1, Toompuiestee 37, International bus schedule From Tallinn Days 1234–6– –––4––– 1–3–––– –––4––7 1–3––6– 1234567 ––3–––– –2–4––7 1–––5–– –––4–6– –2––––– 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345–– 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 ––––567 1234567 –––4–6– –2––––– 1––4–6– 1234–6– 123–567 1234567 1234–6– ––3––6– Destination BERLIN*# BERN* BONN*## BONN*## COLOGNE KALININGRAD KRAKOW KYIV KYIV 11:50 08:00 KYIV* 06:30 14:05 MUNICH* 06:30 15:10 MUNICH* 07:00 11:25 RIGA 10:00 14:35 RIGA 12:30 16:55 RIGA 17:00 21:35 RIGA 18:30 22:55 RIGA 21:00 01:50 RIGA 00:30 05:40 RIGA 14:00 18:10 RIGA* 06:30 10:30 RIGA* 19:00 23:15 RIGA* 06:00 13:00** ST. PETERSBURG 07:00 15:30** ST. PETERSBURG 10:15 19:15 ST. PETERSBURG 11:00 20:40 ST. PETERSBURG 14:30 23:05 ST. PETERSBURG 23:00 07:30 ST. PETERSBURG - express line 15:30 23:00 ST. PETERSBURG** 23:59 08:50 ST. PETERSBURG 06:30**** 18:00 STUTTGART* 06:30**** 20:55 STUTTGART* 07:00 20:00 STUTTGART WARSAW*# 06:30 22:55 17:00 09:00 WARSAW 21:00 06:20 VILNIUS 06:30 14:40 VILNIUS*# 14:00 22:25 VILNIUS* Dep. 06:30 06:30 06:30*** 06:30*** 07:00 17:00 17:00 10:10 Arrival 06:45 21:35 19:20 17:45 19:05 07:10 16:00 07:25 To Tallinn Dep. 22:00 06:45 10:30 08:50 07:25 21:00 11:00 20:45 10:10 18:30 14:30 13:30 07:00 01:25 12:30 08:30 18:30 16:30 23:40 08:00 19:00 12:00 06:45 10:30 13:15 18:00** 22:30 08:30 23:15 10:25***** 07:15***** 08:00 06:15 19:30 21:00 15:00 07:00 Arrival 23:15 23:15 23:15 23:15 22:50 11:40 13:15 17:30 07:20 14:40 23:15 23:15 11:40 06:30 17:20 13:15 23:00 21:00 04:45 12:15 23:15 16:15 13:35 18:10 20:20 23:20 05:40 14:45 06:40 23:15 23:15 22:50 23:15 13:15 06:30 23:15 16:15 Days 1 – 3 4 5 6 – ### –––––6– 1––––6– ––34––– 1234567 ––––5–– –2––5–– ––––––7 ––3––6– 1–––––– –––4––– 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345–7 1234567 1234567 ––––567 1234567 1––––6– –––4––– 1–3––6– 1 2 – 4 5 6 7 ### 12–4567 1234567 1234567 12–––6– Price 1360kr 1805kr 1614kr 1614kr 1721kr 450kr 860kr 887kr 887kr 727kr 1614kr 1614kr 295kr 275kr 295kr 190kr 295kr 250/275kr 250kr 209kr 209kr 209kr 450/390kr 390/340kr 390kr 390/450kr 390/275kr 390kr 400/430kr 340/370kr 1651kr 1651kr 1799kr 713kr 767kr 490kr 395kr 395kr tel. 631 00 44/1447, www.baltijaam.ee. Located just outside Old Town, Tallinn’s newly-revamped train station boasts a trendy café, fountain and a day spa, but still has almost no information posted in English. Luckily, the system is not too confusing and there’s an information booth (open 07:00 - 11:30; 12:15 - 18:15, Sat - Sun 08:00 - 11:30; 12:15 - 18:15) usually staffed by someone multi-lingual. Tickets for all trains, including the Russia trains, are sold from windows in the main hall (take a number and wait). For domestic routes, you don’t even have to bother with this process since the same tickets can always be purchased right on board the trains. A touch-screen vending machine in the centre of the hall also sells tickets for domestic routes (excluding the electric lines). QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Domestic train schedule From Tallinn Days 1234567 12345–– ––––5–7 1234567 1234567 ––––5–7 1234567 1234567 1234567 ––––567 1234567 1234567 ––––567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 ––––567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Departure 06:40 07:46 13:55 14:42 16:50 20:09 06:58 17:22 07:50 13:36 16:35 07:50 13:36 16:35 19:20 21:25 06:58 07:50 08:37 10:35 13:36 14:22 16:35 17:22 18:25 19:20 21:25 16:05 18:20 16:05 Arrival 09:54 10:09 16:25 17:58 19:17 22:32 09:39 19:59 10:16 16:03 19:02 09:22 15:06 18:06 21:12 23:14 08:11 08:45 09:50 11:46 14:29 15:35 17:28 18:35 19:40 20:33 22:35 17:52 20:16 19:36 To Tallinn Destination TARTU TARTU TARTU TARTU TARTU TARTU PÄRNU PÄRNU VILJANDI VILJANDI VILJANDI TÜRI TÜRI TÜRI TÜRI TÜRI TÜRI RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAPLA RAKVERE RAKVERE NARVA Departure 06:50 07:35 14:20 17:24 18:04 19:50 07:18 17:10 06:40 13:24 16:22 05:28 06:20 07:36 09:30 14:20 17:18 06:07 07:00 08:11 08:44 10:09 10:40 12:22 14:56 16:32 17:54 18:35 19:49 05:52 08:18 06:30 Arrival 08:59 10:47 16:29 19:35 21:10 22:00 09:54 19:48 09:08 15:50 18:47 07:15 08:07 09:08 11:05 15:50 18:47 07:15 08:07 09:08 09:54 11:05 11:48 13:30 15:50 17:42 18:47 19:48 21:03 07:41 10:02 10:02 Days 123456– 1234567 ––––5–7 12345–7 1234567 ––––5–7 1234567 1234567 1234567 ––––567 1234567 12345–– 1234567 1234567 –––––67 ––––567 1234567 12345–– 1234567 1234567 1234567 –––––67 1234567 1234567 ––––567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 Price 95-140kr 95-140kr 95-140kr 95-140kr 95-140kr 95-140kr 75kr 75kr 85-95kr 85-95kr 85-95kr 55-80kr 55-80kr 55-80kr 55-80kr 55-80kr 55-80kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 33-45kr 62kr 62kr 100kr Schedule valid as of September 17, 2008. Please note that “Tallinn In Your Pocket” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. International train schedule From Tallinn Days Deparure Daily 17:10 Arrival 09:20* Destination MOSCOW To Tallinn Dep. 18:05* Arr. 08:27 Days Daily Price 729 - 3053kr Prices valid until Nov 10, 2008. *Moscow time. Schedule valid as of Sept 10, 2008. Please note that “Tallinn In Your Pocket” does not take responsibility for changes in the schedule. Please always check for the most current schedule with the service provider. * Lines operated by Ecolines, others by Eurolines. ** St Petersburg Baltic Railway Station, other lines go to St Petersburg Bus Station. *** From Oct 08. **** From Oct 07. ***** From Oct 09. # Until Oct 09 departure every day. ## From Oct 08. ### Until Oct 11 departure every day. Prices for Ecolines are valid for tickets bought from the net (5% discount compared to rack price) Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 80 GETTING AROUND Please note that tram lines 1 and 3 to Kadriorg are not running until October 24 due to construction works. MAIL & PHONES Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, there’s no need to visit a post office. Pretty much any kiosk will sell you stamps, just make sure they’re the right value for what you’re sending and where. The chart below explains the rates for both postcards and letters for the four pricing zones that Estonia uses. Once you’ve got your stamps licked and affixed, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small orange boxes attached to buildings around town. Don’t put your mail in the dark green boxes with round holes in the sides. Those are trash bins. 81 Making the call Calling within Estonia To call any number within Estonia, either from a fixed line or a local mobile, just dial the number as it’s written. There are no city codes in Estonia. Mobile numbers Estonian mobile numbers all begin with ‘5’. Just dial the number as is. Again, there are no special codes. Calling Estonia from abroad Estonia’s country code is +372. Just dial your international access code (00 from most European countries), then 372 then the number, be it mobile or land line. That’s it. Roaming To call any telephone in Estonia from a foreign mobile account, dial +372 followed by the number, as outlined before. Calling abroad from Estonia Dial 00, the country code, then the rest of the numbers. Payphones in Estonia work on a card system. Phone cards are available from any kiosk and come in denominations of 30, 50 and 100kr. Theoretically you can call internationally from a payphone, though you may have to learn the tricky task of switching cards mid-call. Central Post Office C-4, Narva mnt. 1, tel. 6 177 032/information tel. 661 66 16, info@post.ee, www.post.ee. Tallinn’s main post office is the charming cement block located just opposite the Viru Hotel. Packages and express mail are sent from the floor at ground level, while all other postal services are provided in the main hall, upstairs. An English speaker can always be found. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. NEW Old Town Post Office C-3, Viru 20, tel. 627 64 45. You’ll be able to purchase and send post cards and other souvenirs and small items from this handy location. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J Useful numbers Telegram service operator AT&T Collect calls Information (15kr/min) Information (8.40kr/min) Information (8.95kr/min) Infotelefon (free) tel. 16 115 tel. 800 12 001 tel. 16 116 tel. 1188 tel. 1184 tel. 1182 tel. 626 11 11 Postal rates Within Estonia Scandinavia & Baltics Europe USA & Canada S = Surface mail , A = Air mail Letters & Postcards 5.50kr S 5.50kr S 6.00kr A 6.50kr A 8.00kr A All four of the above information numbers are open 24 hours and give telephone numbers, addresses, transport, event and cinema schedules in English. Public internet access ee, www.tlulib.ee. 15 terminals. Free for registered users, 30kr/day for others. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Estonian National Library internet hall E-1, Tőnismägi 2 (room C-2118), tel. 630 73 81, internetisaal@nlib.ee, www.nlib.ee. Free of charge when booked in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Kaubamaja Digimaailm internet centre D-4, Gonsiori 2, Tallinna Kaubamaja 5th floor, tel. 667 31 00, tallinn@kaubamaja.ee, www.kaubamaja.ee. 35kr/h. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Metro Kohvik C-4, Viru Väljak 4B (basement of Viru Centre), tel. 610 15 19, www.metro24.ee. Many terminals, few smiles. 15kr/15min, 25kr/30min, 20 - 35kr/h. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Mobile phones The same GSM mobile you use in Europe or the UK will also work here. To get the best deal on roaming charges, check with your provider at home to see which Estonian network they’re partnered with, and set your network selection accordingly. Better still, you can avoid the roaming question entirely by getting a local Estonian number. All you have to do is buy a starter kit, which will open a pre-paid card account. The kits cost around 50 - 100kr (which typically includes a decent amount of calling credit) and are available in mobile phone shops and kiosks around town. Just pop the SIM card into your phone, and presto! - you’ve now got a local mobile number. Buy scratch-off cards in the same kiosks for additional credit. Hint: In some cases, people using the same pay-as-you-go company can call each other for free! Ask for details when you’re buying the starter kits. if you have an Estonian address, you can sign a contract with one of the networks listed here: Academic Library of Tallinn University internet hall D-4, Rävala pst. 10, tel. 665 94 07, info@tlulib. Laptop login WiFi Tallinn prides itself on being wireless-friendly. The same high-speed Wifi modems that work everywhere else in the world will also work here, with no special software or complicated re-configuration needed. Over 300 cafés, pubs, shops, and petrol stations in Tallinn alone have hotspots set up and in most places connection is free. See www.wifi.ee for a complete list, or look for the W symbol in this guide’s hotel, restaurant, café and bar sections. The one small adjustment users may have to make is to set the outgoing mail (SMTP) server to a local host like mail.hot.ee. Bravocom D-4, Rävala pst. 6, tel. 654 55 55/645 44 65, info@bravo.ee, www.bravo.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Diil C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, EMT box in Viru Centre, tel. 13 445, info@diil.ee, www.diil.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Elisa C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 660 06 00, info@elisa.ee, www.elisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. EMT (Estonian Mobile Telephone) C-4, Viru väljak Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 639 7130, info@emt.ee, www. emt.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tele2 C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, Viru Centre, tel. 686 68 66, tele2@tele2.ee, www.tele2.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TeleYks , tel. 56 123 123, www.teleyks.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 82 SHOPPING There are plenty of opportunities to spend money shopping in Tallinn. Old Town is literally lined with dozens of souvenir, antique and speciality stores. Within Old Town the main shopping streets are Viru, Müürivahe, Suur-Karja, Väike-Karja and Kullassepa. Most central shopping centre is Viru Centre (Viru väljak 4), home also to the Kaubamaja department store (Gonsiori 2). Kaubamaja and Stockmann (Liivalaia 53) offer everything from electronics to cosmetics as well as large clothing sections. Other smaller centres include the Foorum Centre (Narva mnt. 5) and the brand new Rotermanni Kaubamaja (Rotermanni 5). SHOPPING Antiques Antiik C-2, Kinga 5, tel. 646 62 32, www.antiqueshop.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Antiik & Kunst C-2, Dunkri 9, tel. 644 09 23. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Antikvaar C-2, Rataskaevu 20, tel. 641 82 69. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J. Idla Antiik B-3, Pikk 43, tel. 646 40 60. QOpen 2), tel. 644 07 47, info@reval-antique.ee, www. reval-antique.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Shifara Gallery Antiques D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. 644 35 36, shifara@online.ee, www.shifara-antique. ee. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 83 Gifts & Souvenirs C-2, Pikk 22, tel. 631 40 76, info@folkart.ee, www.folkart. ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Estonian Handicraft House Art shops - 19:00. Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. 631 31 81. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Domini Canes C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. 644 52 86. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. N Galerii-G D-2, Vabaduse väljak 6, tel. 644 89 71, info@ galeriig.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Galerii 2 C-1/2, Lühike jalg 1, tel. 641 83 08. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Galerii 36 C-1/2, Lühike jalg 8, tel. 644 16 58. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Gallery Portaal C-3, Vene 20, tel. 646 42 09, lpgalerii@ hot.ee, www.hot.ee/lgalerii. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Helina Tilk C-2, Rataskaevu 6, tel. 646 42 80. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Also at: D-2, Lühike jalg 5. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Hindricus anno 1393 C-2, Lühike jalg 2, tel. 660 52 03, merike.oosalu@mail.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Hobusepea Galerii B/C-2, Hobusepea 2, tel. 528 53 24/627 67 77, galerii@eaa.ee, www.eaa.ee/hobusepea/hindex.htm. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Katariina Gild C-3, Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. 641 84 76. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. N Lühikese Jala Galerii C-1/2, Lühike jalg 6, tel. 631 47 20, lpgalerii@hot.ee, www.hot.ee/lgalerii. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. tel. 631 37 16, navi@navitrolla. ee, www.navitrolla.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Reval Antiik D-2, Harju 13 (entrance at Müürivahe 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. . Allagallery C-2, Nunne 7, tel. 641 55 01, allagallery@ hotmail.com, www.allagallery.com. QOpen 10:00 Bookshops You won’t find a great selection of books in English or other foreign languages in Tallinn, but you won’t be left without any reading material either. Rahva Raamat has the widest selection of English language novels. Allecto has a good variety of speciality books and textbooks. Navitrolla Galerii D-3, Pikk 36, Jardin C-2/3, Apteegi 3, tel. 631 46 25. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. J Kinkepood C-2, Kuninga 2, tel. 631 47 57. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. J Krambude C-2, Vanaturu kael 12, tel. 627 90 20, reserve@oldehansa.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Natural Style C-3, Viru 1, tel. 667 51 13, horveit@ horveit.ee, www.horveit.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Also at: Vene 2, C-3, tel. 667 52 00, horveit@horveit.ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Also at: Vene 7, C-3, tel. 644 21 00, hor veit@hor veit.ee. Open 09:00 - 19:00. J Nukupood C-2, Raekoja plats 18, tel. 644 30 58. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J Raevangla Käsitöökelder C-2, Raekoja 4/6, behind Town Hall, tel. 644 64 88. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. J Sepa Äri C-2, Vanaturu kael 3, tel. 501 56 82. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J Souvenirs C-2, Rataskaevu 18. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. J Souvenirs (M. Villadisain) C-2, Vanaturu kael 10, tel. 641 89 00. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Also at: C-2/3, Viru 4, tel. 620 92 31. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Also at: C-3, Viru 21, tel. 631 20 30. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Also at: C-2, Dunkri 3, tel. 641 87 35. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Also at: C-2, Pikk 2, tel. 646 45 58. Open 08:30 - 19:30. J Symphony of Amber C-1, Kohtu 5, tel. 631 10 76. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. J Tulirebase Gild (Firefox Guild) C-2, Nunne 7, tel. 644 05 04/55 58 35 84, alain@gild.ee, www.gild.ee. Traditional handcrafted leather books and photo albums. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. J Zlobin C-2, Pikk 7, tel. 646 44 13. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. J Zlobin Souvenirs C-2, Rataskaevu 24, tel. 641 21 81. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. J Souvenir markets Knit Market (Sweater Wall) C-3, corner of Viru and Müürivahe. Little old ladies sell their knitwear here along the Old Town wall. Shopping here is almost a tradition for visitors. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Mere Art Market C-4, Mere pst. 1. Lots of knits on sale in the yard adjacent the tram stop. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Markets Balti Jaama Turg B-1, Kopli 1, tel. 644 61 28. The market area behind the train station is where locals go to get spare parts, used clothes and sides of beef. Enter at your own risk. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. Central Market H-3/4, Keldrimäe 9, tel. 660 63 04. A popular destination for fresh food items. Also has clothing and other assor ted junk. Take tram N°2 or N°4 from the centre towards Ülemiste, make sure to get off at the Keskturg stop. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Merekeskus A-4, Mere pst. 10, tel. 644 91 38. Cheap, tacky goods are sold here, mainly to Finnish daytrippers. Pick up some bargain-priced underwear or a questionable CD. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Rotermanni Keskus C-4, Mere pst. 4, tel. 614 10 00. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:30 - 17:00. Tallinn Ceramic Factory (Keraamikatehas) Maleva 2, tel. 662 64 01, www.keraamikatehas.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Allecto H-3, Juhkentali 8, tel. 627 72 30, allecto@ allecto.ee, www.allecto.ee. This specialist in foreign language books is a good bet for all sorts of titles. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Apollo Raamatumaja C-3, Viru 23, tel. 683 34 00, apollo@astro.ee, www.apollo.ee. The most central source for English-language novels and travel guides. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Raamatukoi C-2, Harju 1, tel. 683 77 10, raamatukoi@ raamatukoi.ee, www.raamatukoi.ee. Specialising in antique books. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Rahva Raamat C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru shopping centre), tel. 644 66 55, www.rahvaraamat.ee. Probably the best stocked in Estonia for English books, with titles throughout the store. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Also at: D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 644 36 82. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Tallinn In Your Pocket Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 84 SHOPPING Fashion outlets 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Calvin Klein Jeans G-3, Narva mnt. 5, Foorum centre, tel. 664 04 23, www.foorumkeskus.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Casulli D-2, Harju 5, tel. 644 09 46. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J Don & Donna D-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, tel. 641 42 92. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. J Elegance D-3, Väike-Karja 2, tel. 699 97 68. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Emporio Armani H-3, Rävala pst. 4/Laikmaa 15, tel. 666 34 40. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Esprit C-2, Raekoja plats 4, tel. 644 63 56. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also at: G-3, Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7, tel. 669 88 02. Open 10:00 - 21:00. C-4, Viru Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 58. Open 09:00 - 21:00. J SHOPPING Estonian fashion designers Baltman C-3, Viru 22, tel. 641 80 86, www.baltman. eu. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 Bastion C-3, Viru 12, tel. 644 15 55, www.bastion. ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 HULA B-2/3, Pikk 41, tel. 646 43 69/50 628 92, hula@ IIDA - Estonian Textile, Design & Fashion C-2, SuurKarja 2, tel. 53 94 83 42, www.iidadesign.eu. QOpen hula.ee, www.hula.ee. Q Studio-shop open, when they are there! W - 16:00. - 16:00. 85 Bershka C-4, Rotermanni 12, tel. 664 50 05, bskrotermanni.ee@apranga.com, www.bershka.com. QOpen Cosmetics Make Up Store D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 648 14 88, info@makeupstore.ee, www.makeupstore.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Rosalind E-2, Roosikrantsi 16, tel. 631 36 39. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Fashion Palace Uus 4, tel. 648 54 42, info@fashionpalace.ee, www.fashionpalace.ee. Wide variety of hot labels, including Yves Saint Laurent, Ermanno Scervino, Kiton, and Juicy Couture. They also offer custom tailoring onsite. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J Fornarina C-3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. 644 35 54, info@fornarina.ee, www.fornarina.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Guess C-4, Rotermanni 5 (Rotermanni quarter), tel. 666 77 62. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. H2O D-3, Suur-Karja 23, tel. 627 01 68. QOpen 11:00 Hugo Boss D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 648 40 54. QOpen Hvana C-3, Vana-Viru 8, tel. 644 35 54, info@fornarina. ee, www.hvana.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. J Jack & Jones C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. 631 47 66, www.jackjones.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU Joop! E-2, Viru väljak 3, tel. 648 42 05, www.joop.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Lacoste Boutique E-2, Rotermanni 5/Roseni 10, tel. 664 50 09, lacoste@hot.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Lindex C-3, Viru 13/15, De La Gardie shopping centre, tel. 615 55 40, www.lindex.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JU - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Pepe Jeans C-3, Vana-Viru 9, tel. 641 98 18, www. pepejeans.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Replay G-3, Narva mnt. 5, Foorum centre, tel. 664 04 31. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Tango Fashion Boutique D-2/3, Suur-Karja 18, tel. 631 31 43. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Vero Moda C-4, Viru Centre, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 59. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Also at: G-3, Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7, tel. 669 88 01. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Zara C-4, Viru Centre, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. 610 13 66. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Matinique C-4, Rotermanni 5 (Rotermanni quarter). QOpen 10.00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. MaxMara D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 14, maxmara@hot. ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Nude H-3, Rävala pst. 4, tel. 666 34 42. QOpen 10:00 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. J Ivo Nikkolo C-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. 641 90 57/641 90 58, info@ivonikkolo.com, www.ivonikkolo.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Kairi Vilderson C-3, Aia 3, in WW Passaaž, tel. 627 12 10, info@moemaja.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Lana Malysheva Boutique C-3, Uus 2, tel. 631 32 54/518 26 74. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Monton C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru centre), tel. 660 18 47, www.montonfashion.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Mosaic C-3, Viru 22, 2nd floor, tel. 641 80 90, www. mosaic-fashion.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Namarie C-3/4, Aia 3 (WW Passaž), tel. 627 12 41/53 43 07 56, wenderol@hotmail.com, www.namarie.ee. Original works by young Estonian fashion designers. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Reet Aus C/D-3, Müürivahe 19, info@reetaus.ee, www. reetaus.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Lunch 14:00 - 14:30. Saima Priks Galerii-stuudio C-3, Müürivahe 21, tel. 646 61 55/56 56 77 89, saimapriks@hot.ee, www.hot. ee/saimapriks. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. J Sangar H-1, Endla 45, Kristiine Centre, tel. 665 05 09, sangar@sangar.ee, www.sangar.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Home design 4 Room H-3, Pärnu mnt. 142, tel. 654 23 73, tondi@4room.ee, www.4room.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Ene ja Anni C-2, Lai 10, tel. 644 53 65. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Home Art B-3, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10, Rotermanni Kaubamaja, tel. 664 50 56, pood@homeart.ee, www. homeart.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Kiika Kööki B-3, Uus tn. 28, tel. 699 64 15, kiikakooki@ kiikakooki.ee, www.kiikakooki.ee.     QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Laura Ashley D-3, Suur-Karja 23, tel. 627 01 65. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Mang H-3, Maakri 19/21, tel. 610 84 60, www.mang. ee. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Muster J-2, Pärnu mnt. 139, tel. 679 17 41, www. muster.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Teaspon C-3, Müürivahe 52/54, tel. 644 18 36, www. teaspon.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Villeroy & Boch C-3, Valli 4, tel. 644 04 89, villeroyboch@hot.ee, www.villery-boch.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Zizi C-3, Vene 12, tel. 644 12 22. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Complete listings at www.inyourpocket.com Lingerie 11:00 - 16:00. Linette D-3, Müürivahe 17, tel. 627 89 44. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Shoes 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Skechers C-4, Rotermanni 5 (Rotermanni quarter), tel. 664 50 22, www.skechers.ee. QOpen 10.00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Suurtüki D-3, Väike-Karja 7, tel. 631 35 86, www. suurtyki.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J Vivian Vau Shoe Salon C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel. 641 64 40, www.vivianvau.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Intimo C-3, Viru 17, tel. 644 68 76, info@intimo. ee, www.intimo.ee. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sun Knits & Linen Lina Classic C-2, Dunkri 6, tel. 628 65 84. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Lino C-2, Pikk 12, tel. 646 44 74. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Maret-M C-3, Viru 20, tel. 644 02 21. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Salvator Boutique C-2, Pikk 5, tel. 646 41 19. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. VeTa C-2, Pikk 8, tel. 646 41 42. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Wool & Cotton C-3, Viru 10, tel. 631 39 02. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. October - November 2008 Galerii D-3, Väike-Karja 6, tel. 641 80 88. QOpen Second hand Humana G-3, Gonsior 2, tel. 669 13 23, www. humanae.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Lai 10 secondhand C-2, Lai 10, tel. 641 17 43, www.lai10secondhand.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Tallinn In Your Pocket 86 SHOPPING What to buy in Estonia Alcohol Booze of any type (cheap in Estonia) is a gift that never seems to go amiss, but the most Tallinnesque is defini tel y Vana Tallinn, a 1960s concoction that’s considered th e quintessential Estonian beverage. Bu y the leather pouch that’s often sold with it. Amber Though all the petrified tree sap sold here is actually from Lithuania and Poland, it’s still considered a sought-after gift for anyone visiting the Baltic countries. Ranging in shades from green to white to deep brown, it’s made into all manner of jewellery and figurines. Ceramics Souvenir shops do a good trade in ceramic figures, especially little ceramic buildings. Some are fairy-tale creations that have a hollow inside where you can put a candle. Others are amazingly precise copies of specific buildings in Old Town. Chocolate Any thing by famous local confectioner, Kalev. Assortments with pictures of Tallinn are a hit. One of the big favorites to buy is their Maiasmokk chocolate candy box. Knits Sweaters of all varieties, knit caps, gloves and mittens are traditional gifts that are sold just about every where in Old Town. The most interesting place to shop for knitwear is definitely the sweater market on Müürivahe, along the Old Town wall near McDonald’s. Linen The traditional fabric from centuries gone by is still a popular handicraft i tems among the locals. Table coverings are the most obvious use, but a linen shirt can also make a stylish gift for your favourite knight. Wood Toys, dolls, beer mugs, kitchen utensils and any thing else that can be carved out of juniper are popular, and give souvenir shops their distinctive fragrance. SHOPPING Food Hyper Rimi, Norde Centrum G-3, Lootsi 7, tel. 669 89 00, info.lootsi@rimibaltic.com, www.rimi. ee. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Rimi C-3, Aia 7, tel. 644 38 55, www.rimi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Stockmann H-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. 633 95 39, fax 633 95 56, www.stockmann.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Other floors open an hour less. Tallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2/Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 667 31 00, tallinn@kaubamaja.ee, www. kaubamaja.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Westman E-2, Pärnu mnt. 19, tel. 660 51 82. Q Open 24hrs. 87 Shopping centres www.foorumshopping.ee. A collection of high end shops, located at street level, in a beautifully designed building. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Kristiine Keskus H-1, Endla 45, tel. 665 03 41, www. kristiinekeskus.ee. A large, modern mall just outside the city centre. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00. Prisma grocery store open 08:00 - 23:00. Norde Centrum G-3, Lootsi 7, tel. 669 89 00. A mediumsized place near the port, convenient if you’re leaving by ship. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Foorum G-3, Narva mnt. 5, info@foorumkeskus.ee, Rotermanni Kaubamaja B-4, Rotermanni 5/ Roseni 10,, tel. 626 42 00, info@rotermannikaubamaja. ee, www.rotermannikaubamaja.ee. Recently opened shopping centre in Tallinn’s newly developed and renovated Rotermanni district houses mainly upscale international brands. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Stockmann H-3, Liivalaia 53, tel. 633 95 39, www. stockmann.ee. The local branch of Finland's premiere department store is a high-end affair. Just about everything you can imagine is sold in the five-storey complex. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Food and cosmetics departments are open one hour later. Tallinna Kaubamaja D-4, Gonsiori 2, tel. 667 31 00, Kids’ stuff Bambini C-2, Pikk 12, tel. 646 43 94. Baby and children’s clothes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Juku Toy Centre Mustamäe tee 3, tel. 652 55 50, mustamae@jukukeskus.ee, www.jukukeskus.ee. Toys QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Laste Maailm D-3, Pärnu mnt. 6, tel. 644 93 80, maailm@mail.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. J Nukupood C-2, Reakoja plats 18, tel. 644 30 58. Dolls and toys. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. www.kaubamaja.ee. Tallinn's giant, home-grown department store dates back to 1960, but has done a great job of keeping pace with the times. A glass gallery connects it to the Viru Keskus, where it has additional departments. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Viru Keskus (Viru Centre) C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 44, fax 610 14 01, www.virukeskus.com. This 30,000m2 shopping and dining complex is a large, classy addition to downtown’s commercial scene. More than just a mall, it’s also a good spot to meet or have a drink. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Ülemiste Center I-5, Suur-Sőjamäe 4, next to Tal- Alcohol Please note that alcohol sales in Tallinn are prohibited from 22.00 until 10:00. Leather & Fur Don & Donna C-4, Viru Centre, Viru Väljak 4/6, tel. 610 14 50. Leather and fur. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Linda C-2, Kullassepa 4, tel. 644 91 71. QOpen 10:00 Marie Mireth Boutique E-2, Roosikrantsi 11, tel. 648 53 50. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Piccolo C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. 644 48 07. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. linn Airport, tel. 603 49 99, info@ulemiste.ee, www. ulemiste.ee. This gigantic, two-level shopping mall next to Tallinn’s airport has hands-down the most retail space of any mall in town. For serious shoppers, it’s worth the short trip from the centre. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Bakhos C-3, Aia 5b, tel. 644 42 21, www.bakhos. ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. In Vino Veritas C-2, Lai 6, tel. 641 84 40, info@ QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 invinoveritas.ee, www.invinoveritas.ee. Wine shop. - 24:00. Liviko C-3, Mere pst. 6, tel. 683 77 45, kplmere@ liviko.ee, www.liviko.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Also at: G-3, Narva mnt. 7, tel. 683 77 40, Open 10:00 - 21:00. Mindy C-2, Kullassepa 13, tel. 631 47 09. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. R-Alko C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. 641 98 70. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Tunor C-3, Aia 10a, tel. 631 33 37. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Military memorabilia Kroonu Ait H-4, Gonsiori 28, tel. 601 01 64, info@ kroonuait.ee, www.kroonuait.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. October - November 2008 Tallinn In Your Pocket 88 BUSINESS DIRECTORY Accountants 25, info@audest.ee, www.audest.ee. Deloitte E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. 640 65 00, fax 640 65 03, www.deloitte.ee. Ernst & Young Baltic H-3, Rävala 4, tel./fax 611 46 10, tallinn@ee.ey.com, www.ey.com/ee. HansaConsult G-3, Ahtri 6, tel. 661 64 17, fax 661 64 20, info@hansaconsult.ee, www.hansaconsult.ee. IMG Konsultant H-3, Tartu mnt. 2, tel. 646 20 50, fax 646 11 53, img@img.ee, www.img.ee. PricewaterhouseCoopers E-2, Pärnu mnt. 15, tel. 614 18 00, fax 614 19 00, tallinn@ee.pwc.com, www.pwc.ee. BUSINESS DIRECTORY Lawyers A Dato Partnerid B-4, Mere pst. 8, tel. 653 07 50, fax 11d, tel. 611 69 50, fax 611 69 51, info@hedman.ee, www.hedman-attorneys.com. Hough, Hübner, Hütt & Partners C-3, Viru 5, tel. 644 62 27, fax 631 44 17, estlaw@neti.ee, www.houghhubner-attorneys.ee. Lepik & Luhaäär C-2, Niguliste 4, tel. 630 64 60/503 74 62, fax 630 64 63, tallinn@lawin.ee, www.lawin. ee. Q J Luiga Mody Hääl Borenius E-2, Pärnu mnt. 15, tel. 665 18 88, fax 665 18 99, lmh@lmh.ee, www.lmh.ee. Raidla Lejins & Norcous E-2, Roosikrantsi 2, tel. 640 71 70, fax 640 71 71, www.rln.ee. Sorainen E-2, Pärnu mnt. 15, tel. 640 09 00, fax 640 09 01, sorainen@sorainen.ee, www.sorainen.ee. 653 07 51, adato@adato.ee, www.adato.ee. 89 Audest H-2, Liivalaia 5-65, tel. 646 32 67, fax 646 14 Hedman Osborne Clarke Alliance G-3, Narva mnt. Business connections American Chamber of Commerce D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 22/631 05 21, amcham@amcham.ee, www. amcham.ee. British Estonian Chamber of Commerce C-2, Narva mnt 11d, tel. 56 622 623, fax 611 69 54, becc@becc. ee, www.becc.ee. Enterprise Estonia H-3, Liivalaia 13/15, tel. 627 97 00, fax 627 94 27, eas@eas.ee, www.eas.ee. Estonian Chamber of Commerce C-1, Toom-Kooli 17, tel. 604 00 60, fax 604 00 61, koda@koda.ee, www.koda.ee. German Industry and Commerce in Estonia B-2, Suurtüki 4b, tel. 627 69 40, info@ahk-balt.org, www. ahk-balt.org. Swedish Chamber of Commerce Rüütli 9 ( Swedish St. Michael’s Church in Tallinn), tel. 501 98 13, info@ swedishchamber.ee, www.swedishchamber.ee. Banks Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: C-2/3, Suur-Karja 1/Vana Turg 2, tel. 631 03 10. Open 09:30 - 18:00, closed Sat, Sun. Krediidipank G-3, Narva mnt. 4, tel. 669 09 00/669 09 21, fax 669 09 54, info@krediidipank.ee, www.krediidipank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Marfin Bank E-2, Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. 680 25 00, fax 680 25 01, info@marfinbank.ee, www.marfinbank.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Nordea G-3, Hobujaama 4, opposite Central Post office, tel. 628 33 00/1772, fax 628 32 01, tallinn@nordea. com, www.nordea.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Sampo Pank G-3, Narva mnt. 11, tel. 680 08 00, fax 675 31 01, info@sampopank.ee, www.sampopank.ee. QOpen 09.00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SEB H-3, Tornimäe 2, tel. 665 51 00, fax 665 73 01, info@seb.ee, www.seb.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at: D-3, Pärnu mnt. 12, tel. 665 69 83. Open 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sat-Sun. Tallinn Business Bank (Tallinna Äripank) D-4, Estonia pst. 5a, tel. 668 80 00/668 80 66, fax 668 80 01, info@tbb.ee, www.tbb.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Swedbank H-2, Liivalaia 8, tel. 631 03 10, fax 631 04 10, hansa@hansa.ee, www.hansa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Translators & Interpreters A&A Lingua G-4, Kreutzwaldi 12, tel. 683 03 21, fax 683 03 22, lingua@lingua.ee, www.lingua.ee. Atos Translation Bureau Kivila 3/18, tel. 601 40 01/51 68 658, fax 601 40 02, atos@atos.ee, www. atos.ee. Connectus G-3, Ahtri 8, tel. 641 18 00, fax 631 38 32, connectus@estpak.ee, www.connectus.ee. ILS - International Language Service E-2, Roosikrantsi 8b, tel. 627 71 70, fax 646 42 58, info@ils.ee, www.ils.ee. Interlex Translation Bureau D-4, Rävala pst. 6, tel. 681 46 70, fax 681 46 71, interlex@interlex.ee, www. interlex.ee. Luisa Tőlkebüroo H-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. 626 42 82, luisatrans@luisa.ee, www.luisa.ee. Pangloss H-4, Tartu mnt. 61-10, tel. 603 17 70, fax 601 49 99, pangloss@pangloss.ee, www.pangloss.ee. Notaries Aivar Mesikäpp H-3, Rävala pst 3/ Kuke tn 2, tel. 699 63 00, fax 699 63 01, info@notarnet.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Anne Saaber H-3, Maakri 23A, tel. 666 20 10, fax 666 20 11, saaber@uninet.ee, www.notar.ee. QOpen 09:30 - 14:30, Wed 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Heli Mőttus E-3, Estonia pst. 15, tel. 610 39 30, fax 610 39 34, heli.mottus@notar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Piret Press G/H-3, Tartu mnt. 2, tel. 665 16 22, fax 665 16 33, piret.press@notarid.ee, www.notar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Mon, Wed 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tiit Sepp H-3, Rävala pst. 3/Kuke 2, tel. 699 63 00, fax 699 63 01, info@notarnet.ee, www.notar.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Conference centres Estonian National Library Conference Centre E-1, Tőnismägi 2, tel. 630 72 62/631 14 16, fax 631 12 02, konverents@nlib.ee, www.nlib.ee/konverentsikeskus. Olümpia Conference Center E-4, Liivalaia 33, Reval Hotel Olümpia, tel. 631 53 34, olympia.sales@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. Sokos Hotel Viru Conference Centre C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. 680 93 00, fax 680 92 36, viru.reservation@sok. fi, www.viru.ee. Real estate Arco Vara G-3, Jőe 2b, tel. 614 46 00, fax 614 46 01, info@arcovara.ee, www.arcovara.ee. Baltic Proper ty Exper t G-3, Ahtri 6a, tel. 626 42 50/626 42 51, bpe.tallinn@bpe.e e, w w w. bpe.ee. ERI E-2, Pärnu mnt. 21, tel. 626 64 55, fax 626 64 56, eri@eri.ee, www.eri.ee. Goodson & Red G-3, Jõe 5, tel. 666 16 50, info@goodsonandred.com, www.goodsonandred.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Majaekspert C-3, Viru 21, tel. 627 04 90, fax 646 62 12, info@majaekspert.ee, www.majaekspert.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ober-Haus G-4, Narva mnt. 53, tel. 665 97 00, fax 665 97 01, estonia@ober-haus.com, www.ober-haus. com. Pindi Kinnisvara H-3, Tartu mnt. 16, tel. 610 39 00/512 02 80, fax 610 39 01, tallinn@pindi.ee, www. pindi.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Property in Estonia F-3, Jahu 1/+44 870 768 1020, enquiries@property-in-estonia.co.uk, www.property-inestonia.co.uk. Rime Kinnisvara I-2/3, Tatari 64, tel. 683 77 77, fax 683 77 88, rime@rime.ee, www.rime.ee. Cultural centres Danish Cultural Institute C-3, Vene 14, tel./fax 646 63 73, info@dankultur.ee, www.dankultur.ee. Estonian Institute D-2, Suur-Karja 14, tel. 631 43 55, fax 631 43 56, einst@einst.ee, www.einst.ee. Finnish Institute C-2, Harju 1, tel. 631 39 17, fax 631 39 52, maimu.berg@finst.ee, www.finst.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. French Cultural Centre C-2, Kuninga 4, tel. 627 11 90/627 11 91, fax 627 11 98, info@france.ee, www. ccf.ee. Library, resource centre and cultural events. Internet service providers Elion G-3, Lootsi 7, Norde Centrum, tel. 165/669 88 22, info@elion.ee, www.elion.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Elisa C-4, Viru väljak 4, tel. 660 06 00, info@elisa.ee, www.elisa.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Starman E-3, Rävala 19, tel. 1770, klienditugi@starman.ee, www.starman.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Tele2 C-4, Viru väljak 4/6, tel. 686 68 33, fax 686 68 77, info@tele2.ee, www.tele2.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Office Supplies Koopia Kolm C-3, Vana-Viru 3, tel. 627 51 60, vanaviru@koopia3.ee, www.kumalo.ee, www.koopia3. ee. Photocopying, office supplies and other services. pst 8, tel 660 4702, 50 31 720, revala@koopia3.ee. Open 08:30 - 17:00, Closed Sat, Sun. N QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at: Rävala Complete listings at: www.inyourpocket.com Tallinn In Your Pocket 69 62, dkigi@tallinn.goethe.org, www.goethe. de/ne/tal. GLIK (Gay and Lesbian Info Centre) H-3, Tartu mnt. 29, tel. 645 45 45, fax 645 45 50, glik@gay. ee, www.gay.ee. QOpen 14:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Hungarian Institute C-1, Piiskopi 2, tel. 644 08 17, unginst@unginst.org.ee, www.unginst.org.ee. Russian Cultural Centre C-4, Mere pst. 5, tel. 644 58 65/644 18 32, fax 641 83 01, venekeskus@ venekeskus.ee, www.venekeskus.ee. The British Council D-2, Vana-Posti 7, tel. 625 77 88, fax 625 77 99, british.council@britishcouncil. ee, www.britishcouncil.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Info centre open Tue-Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. German Cultural Institute/Goethe-Institute Tallinn B-2, Suurtüki 4b, tel. 627 69 60, fax 627 October - November 2008 90 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY Laundrettes Seebimull H-2, Liivalaia 7, tel. 643 33 33. QOpen 08:00 Washcenter H-3, Maakri 23, tel. 661 20 75, maakri@ online.ee, www.sauberland.ee. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Most travellers’ biggest health concern is the quality of the water. Well, here in Estonia the taste takes some getting used to but we’ve been drinking the water for years without any adverse effects. Medical services are fairly cheap in Estonia. Though the quality of service has improved dramatically over the past decade, most Western residents still go to Finland or elsewhere when a major operation is needed. Interestingly, the number of foreigners coming to Estonia for cheaper cosmetic surgery is on the rise. For a less extreme - and less painful - type of bargain, you can consider getting your perscription glasses made here. HEALTH 91 Libraries H-3, Estonia pst. 8, tel. 683 09 15, keskraamatukogu@ tln.lib.ee, www.keskraamatukogu.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Estonian National Library E-1, Tőnismägi 2, tel. 630 76 11, nlib@nlib.ee, www.nlib.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Central Library (Department of Foreign Literature) Clinics & Hospitals tel. 605 96 05/605 96 00, fax 605 96 99, fertilitas@ fertilitas.ee, www.fertilitas.ee. Q A Opticians Eagle Vision D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 627 01 10, parnumnt@eagle-vision.ee, www.eagle-vision.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Instrumentarium C-4, Viru centre, Viru väljak 4, tel. 610 13 61, viru@instru.ee, www.instru.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Norman Optika H-3, Rävala pst. 6, tel. 646 71 23, fax 646 71 25, ravala@normanoptika.ee, www.normanoptika.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Reval Optika G-3, Narva mnt. 2, tel./fax 660 19 16, info@revaloptika.ee, www.revaloptika.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Tallinna Optika C-3, Aia 3/Vana-Viru 10, WW-Passaaţ, tel. 627 12 09, ww@opti.ee, www.opti.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Fertilitas Private Hospital Kaluri tee 5a, Viimsi, Regional Hospital of North Estonia - Mustamäe block J.Sütiste tee 19, tel. 697 13 00/emergency 697 Money transfer Beauty care Abigail D-4, Rävala pst. 3, Radisson SAS, 5th floor, tel. 699 80 07, info@abigail.ee, www.abigail.ee. Hair salon and spa. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. De la Gardie Beauty Parlour C-3, Viru 13/15, tel. 631 47 49, beautysalon@delagardie.ee. Hairstyling and facial treatments. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Gersi Stiilistuudio G/H-3, Tartu mnt. 2, tel. 681 80 80/641 91 81, fax 681 80 81, gersi@online.ee, www. gersi.ee. Personal styling service. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Go City Spa H-3, Rävala pst. 4, tel. 640 02 00, info@ cityspa.ee, www.cityspa.ee. A luxury spa. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Intersalon H-3, Lauteri 5, tel. 610 67 89, www.intersalon.ee. Professional hairdressers. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Käärkäsi E-2, Tatari 6, tel. 627 75 80. Hair salon. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. N Nail&nails H-3, Rävala pst 6, tel. 681 46 14, www. nail&nails.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SpaLife (Shnelli Day Spa) B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. 6310160, info@spalife.ee, www.spalife.ee. Hair & beauty salon and a spa. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Telegraaf Spa Vene 9, tel. 600 06 16, spa@telegraafhotel.com, www.telegraafhotel.com. A small upscale spa. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. MoneyGram (Estravel) G-3, Suur-Karja 15, tel. 626 62 11, ikontor@estravel.ee, www.estravel.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Western Union (Tallinn Post Office) C-4, Narva mnt 1, tel. 625 73 04, tallinn@post.ee, www.post.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Photo services Fotoluks C-3, Vana-Viru 3, tel. 641 84 19, stuudio@ fotoluks.ee, www.fotoluks.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Fotomeister G/H-3, Rävala 8/Kaubamaja 8, tel. 660 45 38, info@fotomeister.ee, www.fotomeister.ee. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 14 00, www.regionaalhaigla.ee. Tallinn Central Hospital H-3, Ravi 18, tel. 620 70 15/697 30 02, info@itk.ee, www.itk.ee. Tallinn Children’s Hospital H-3, Tervise 28, tel. 697 71 13, admin@lastehaigla.ee, www.lastehaigla.ee. Tallinn Magdaleena Hospital & Policlinics I-2, Pärnu mnt. 104, tel. 697 31 04/697 30 12, www.itk.ee. Dentists Baltic Medical Partners H-3, Tartu mnt. 32, tel. Eurodent H-4, Tartu mnt. 63, tel. 611 55 51, info@ 601 05 50, fax 601 05 49, info@bmp.ee, www.bmp. ee. Private clinic. Pharmacies Aia Apteek 1 C-3/4, Aia 7, tel. 627 36 07. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Tőnismäe Apteek E-1, Tőnismägi 5, tel. 644 22 82. Q Open 24hrs. Tallinna Linnaapteek D-3, Pärnu mnt. 10, tel. 644 02 44, linnaapt@uninet.ee. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Shoe repair Fix-Serv C-3, Aia 3 (WW Passaz), tel. 627 12 34.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. eurodent.ee, www.eurodent.ee. Private clinic staffed by dentists trained in Turku, Finland. Tallinna Hambapolikliinik E-1, Toompuiestee 4, tel. 611 92 30/611 92 89. Large, state clinic. Call here in an emergency. Something sporty Bowling Ku:lsa:l B-4, Mere pst. 6, tel. 661 66 82, bowling@ kuulsaal.ee, www.kuulsaal.ee. This ultra-modern, ultra-cool, two-storey club offers the closest bowling to Old Town. Try their blacklight system for a cosmic effect. 12 lanes. 165 - 275kr/hr. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Massage Aurea Massage Studio G-3, Narva mnt. 7d, tel. 669 67 73/56 62 32 40, info@aurea.ee, www.aurea.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Kaarli Massaaţi Keskus E-1, Kaarli pst. 4, tel. 611 91 14. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Marii H-3, Kentmanni 32A -2, tel. 660 51 14, marii@ marii.ee, www.marii.ee. LPG massage. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Sat 10.00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Tervisekeskus (Health Centre) C-3, Vana-Viru 4, tel. 644 08 15. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Saunas African Kitchen B-3, Uus 34, tel. 644 25 55, info@ africankitchen.ee, www.africankitchen.ee. For something far funkier than average, reserve the private sauna in Tallinn’s groovy, African-themed restaurant. You can hire it for 350kr/hr; ask for details at the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. Club 26 H-3, Liivalaia 33, Reval Hotel Olümpia, tel. 631 55 85/631 53 00, olympia.club26@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. On the 26th floor of the Olümpia hotel. 300kr/hr until 15:00, 600kr/hr after. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Kalma A-1, Vana-Kalamaja 9a, tel. 627 18 11, www. bma.ee/kalma. Tallinn’s oldest public bath. Men 100 - 120kr/ person, women 80 - 100kr/person. Two private saunas also available for rent by the hour. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. N Meriton Grand Hotel G-2, Toompuiestee 27, tel. 667 70 00, hotel@meritonhotels.com, www.meritonhotels. com. 2 hours costs 600kr; after 17:00, 900kr. Reval Hotel Central G-3, Narva mnt. 7c, tel. 633 98 00, www.revalhotels.com. First hour 400kr, next hour 300kr. Sauna Village (Saunaküla) 8 km from Tallinn, tel. 609 98 88, fax 614 03 10, info@saunamaailm.ee, www.saunamaailm.ee. This complex just outside Tallinn really is like a village. It’s made up of a number of large, individual houses, all built in 2000, available for rent by the hour. The Russian House, Finnish House, Hunter’s House and Aqua House, each have their own sauna and its own style.Q 500-800kr/hour. October - November 2008 Dry cleaners Ecoclean E-2, Roosikrantsi 23, tel. 646 61 93, info@ ecoclean.ee, www.ecoclean.ee. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also at: H-3, Liivalaia 53, 5th floor, tel. 668 04 82. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Kati Koduabi OÜ C-3, Uus 9, tel. 631 45 66, limu@limu. ee, www.zone.ee/keemiline. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Sauberland H-3, Maakri 23, tel. 661 20 75, fax 661 26 24, maakri@online.ee, www.sauberland.ee. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Squash & tennis Reval Sport B-3, Aia 20, tel. 641 20 68, info@ revalsport.ee, www.revalsport.ee. Single entry 200kr/hr.QOpen 07:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. In August open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Suite Massage The salon provides both male and female clients with a variety of pleasant and discreet massages. Treatments include: aroma, cup, localized, sensual, erotic-body, honey, Thai, Shindo, 4-hand-massage and a soap massage. An exhilarating body peel is also available prior to the rub down if requested. For the ultimate experience be sure to ask about the massage packages. There is also a sauna and whirpool on site. H-3, Liivalaia 32 (100m from hotel Olümpia), tel. 646 27 70/58 09 77 66 (order in advance), www.suitemassage.ee. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Swimming pools 55 85, olympia.club26@revalhotels.com, www. revalhotels.com. Swimming pool with a spectacular view, on the 26th floor of the hotel. QOpen 06:30 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. Kalev SPA Water Park B-3, Aia 18, tel. 649 33 71, waterpark@kalevspa.ee, www.kalevspa.ee. Single adult ticket 80-140kr. QOpen 06:45 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:30. Club 26 H-3, in Hotel Olümpia, Liivalaia 33, tel. 631 Key cuts Fix-Serv C-3, Aia3, (WW Passaz), tel. 627 12 34. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Tallinn In Your Pocket 92 OFFICIALS Embassies Austria H-3, Vambola 6, tel. 627 87 40/627 87 45, fax 00/655 80 01. Belgium C-2, Rataskaevu 2, tel. 627 41 00, fax 627 41 01, tallinn@diplobel.be, www.diplomatie.be/tallinn/. Canada C-1, Toomkooli 13, 2nd floor, tel. 627 33 11/627 33 10 , fax 627 33 12, tallinn@canada.ee, www.canada.ee. Czech G-4, Lahe 4, tel. 627 44 00/627 44 01, fax 631 47 16, tallinn@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mzv.cz/tallinn. Denmark D-1, Wismari 5, tel. 630 64 00, fax 630 64 21, tllamb@um.dk, www.ambtallinn.um.dk. Finland C-1, Kohtu 4, tel. 610 32 00, fax 610 32 81, sanomat.tal@formin.fi, www.finland.ee. France H-2, Toom-Kuninga 20, tel. 631 14 92/631 13 68, fax 631 13 85, info@ambafrance-ee.org, www. ambafrance-ee.org. Georgia H-1, Wismari 32a - 4,5, tel. 698 85 90, fax 641 30 00, embassy.georgia@mail.ee. Germany H-2, Toom-Kuninga 11, tel. 627 53 00/627 53 03 , fax 627 53 04, tallinn@germany.ee, www.tallinn.diplo.de. Greece D-3, Pärnu mnt. 12, 2nd floor, tel. 640 35 60, fax 640 35 61, grembest@yahoo.com. Hungary G-5, Narva mnt. 122, tel. 605 18 80, fax 605 40 88, mission.tal@kum.hu, www.mfa.gov.hu/ kulkepviselet/EE/ee/. China G-5, Narva mnt. 98, tel. 601 58 30/601 58 31, fax 601 58 33, mailoffice@chinaembassy.ee, www. chinaembassy.ee. Ireland C-3, Vene 2, 2nd floor, tel. 681 18 88, fax 681 18 99, tallinnembassy@dfa.ie. Italy C-3, Vene 2, 3rd floor, tel. 627 61 60, fax 631 13 70, ambasciata.tallinn@esteri.it, www.ambtallinn. esteri.it. Japan D-2, Harju 6, tel. 631 05 31/631 05 32, fax 631 05 33, www.japemb.ee. Latvia E-1, Tőnismägi 10, tel. 627 78 50/627 78 65 , fax 627 78 55, embassy.estonia@mfa.gov.lv, consulate. estonia@mfa.gov.lv. Lithuania B-3, Uus 15, tel. 616 49 90/616 49 92, fax 641 20 13, amb.ee@urm.lt, ee.mfa.lt. Monaco C-4, Viru väljak 3 (Nordic Hotel Forum), tel. 503 88 85. Netherlands C-1, Rahukohtu 4-I, tel. 680 55 00, fax 680 55 01, info@netherlandsembassy.ee, www.netherlandsembassy.ee. Norway D-2, Harju 6, tel. 627 10 00, fax 627 10 01, emb.tallinn@mfa.no, www.norra.ee. Poland C-2, Suur-Karja 1, tel. 627 82 06/627 82 08 poola.info@mail.ee, www.tallinn.polemb.net. Portugal C-1, Kohtu 10, tel. 611 74 68, fax 611 74 67, emb.portugal.tallin@gmail.com. Russia C-2, Pikk 19, tel. 646 41 75/646 41 69, fax 646 41 78, vensaat@online.ee, www.rusemb.ee. Spain H-3, Liivalaia 13/15, 6th floor, tel. 667 66 51/502 73 57, fax 631 37 67, emb.tallin@mae.es. Sweden B-3, Pikk 28, tel. 640 56 00, fax 640 56 95, swedemb@neti.ee, www.sweden.ee. Turkey G-4, Narva mnt. 30, tel. 627 28 80, fax 627 28 85, tallinn@turkishembassy.ee. UK H-2, Wismari 6, tel. 667 47 00, fax 667 47 55, information@britishembassy.ee, www.britishembassy.ee. Ukraine G-4, Lahe 6, tel. 601 58 15/601 58 35, fax 601 58 16, embukr@eol.ee, www.uninet.ee/~embkura. USA E-3/4, Kentmanni 20, tel. 668 81 00, fax 668 81 34, USAsaatkond@state.gov, www.usemb.ee. 631 43 65, tallinn-ob@bmeia.gv.at. Aarde G-1 Adamsoni H-2 Ahtri G-3 Aia C/D-4 Aida B-2 Alevi J-2 Alle G-5 Allika H-3 Ao H-2 Apteegi C-3 Aru F/G-1 Asula I/J-2 Asunduse H-5 Auli J-1/2 Auna G-1 Auru J-3 Bensiini G-5 Bremeni käik C-3 Dunkri D-2 Eha H-2 Endla H-1/2 Erika F-1 Estonia pst E-3/4 Faehlmanni H-4 Falgi D-1 Filmi G-5 Filtri I-4 Gildi H-4 Gonsiori H-3/5 Gümnaasiumi C-2 Haigru I-1 Hane J-1 Haraka J-2 Hariduse H-3 Härjapea G-1 Harju D/E-2 Hauka I-2 Heina F-1/G-2 Hermanni H-4 Herne I-3 Hõbeda H-4 Hobusepea C-2 Imanta H-4 Inseneri C-4 Invaliidi H/I-3 Jahu F-3 Jakobi H-4 Jakobsoni H-4 Järvevana I-4/J-3 Joa G-6 Jõe G-4 Juhkentali H-3/I-4 Kaarli pst E-1/2 Käbliku I-1 Kadri G-6 Kadriorg G-5 Kaera F-1 Kai G-3 Kajaka J-1 Kalasadama F-3 Kalevi F-2 Kalju F-2 Kannikese H-1 Kännu I/J-1 Käo J-1/2 Karjavärava D-3 Karu G-4 Kasvu H-1 Katariina käik C-3 Kauba I-2/J-3 Kauka H-3 Kauna I-3 Kaupmehe H-3 Kauri I-1 Keemia H-1 Keldrimäe H-4 Kentmanni H-3 K-Kalamaja B-1 Kesk-Ameerika I-2 Kesk-Sõjamäe J-6 Kevade H-2 Kibuvitsa H-1 Killustiku H-5 Kinga C-2 Kiriku C/D-1 Kiriku põik C-1 Kiriku plats D-1 Kivimurru I-5 Kodu I-3 Kohtu D-2 Koidu H/I-2 Koidula G-4/H-5 Köie F-2 Kolde G-1 Köleri G-4/5 Kollane H-4 Komandandi E-1 Komeedi H-2 Kooli B-2 Kopli B-1 Koskla H/I-1 Kotka I/J-2 Kotkapoja I-2 Kotzebue A-1/2 Kreutzwaldi H-4 Kristiina I-2 Kuhlbarsi H-4 Kullassepa D-2 Kullerkupu H-1 Kulli J-1 Kunderi H-4 Kungla F-2 Kuninga D-2 Kure J-1 Kuristiku G-6 Laagna G/H-6 Laboratooriumi B-2 Lagle I-2 Lahe G-5 Lai B-3/C-2 Lasnamäe G/H-6 Lastekodu H/I-4 Laulupeo H-4 Lauteri H-3 STREET REGISTER Lehe I/J-1 Lembitu H-3 Lennujaama I-5 Lennuki H-3 Liblika I-1 Liivalaia H-3/4 Liivamäe H-4 Lille H-1 Linda G-2 Lindamägi H-2 Linnu tee J-1 Lootsi G-4 Lõkke H-2 Lõokese J-2 Lubja H-4 Luha I-2 Luige I-1 Luise H-2 Luste F-1 Lühike jalg D-2 Madara H-1/2 Mäekalda G/H-5 Magasini H/I-3 Magdaleena J-2 Maisi G-1 Majaka H/I-5 Malmi G-2 Maneezhi G-3 Mardi H-4 Mehaanika H/I-1 Mere A/D-4 Metalli H-1 Mineraali H-1 Mooni H/I-1 Mulla G/H-1 Mündi C-2 Munga C-3 Muti J-1 Müürivahe C-3/D-2 Nafta G-4 Narva G-3/6 Nepi I-2 Nevski D-2 Niguliste D-2 Niine A-1/2 Nisu F/G-1 Nõmme I-2 Nunne C-1/2 Odra H-4 Olevimägi B/C-3 Oleviste B-3 Orase G-1 Oru G-6 Otsa E-3 Paavli F-1 Pae H-6 Paekaare H-6 Paekivi I-5 Pagari B-3 Paide J-2/3 Paldiski H-2 Pärna H-4 Pärnu I-3/J-2 Peterburi I-5/6 Petrooleumi G-4/5 Piiskopi D-1 Pikk B-3/C-2 Pikk jalg D-2 Pirita F-6/G-5 Planeedi I-2 Põhja A-4/B-2 Poska G-5 Preesi G-1 Pronksi G/H-4 Punane H-6 Pühavaimu C-3 Raekoja D-2 Raekoja plats D-2 Rahukohtu C-1 Rannamäe B-1/4 Rapla J-2 Rataskaevu C-2 Raua G/H-4 Rävala H-3 Ravi H-3 Reinvaldi H-4 Roheline aas H-5 Rohu G-2 Roopa H-2 Roosikrantsi H-3 Roseni B-4 Rotermanni C-4 Rukki F-1 Rutu C-1 Rüütli D/E-2 Sadama G-3 Saiakang C-2 Sakala E-3 Saku J-2 Salme F-2 Saturni I-2 Saue G-2 Sauna D-3 Sõle G/H-1 Sõpruse pst I/J-1 Spordi I/J-2 Staadioni H-4 Süda H-3 Sügise G-2 Suitsu J-3 Sulevimägi B-3 Suur Kloostri C-2 Suur Rannavärav A-3 Suur-Ameerika H-2 Suur-Karja D-3 Suur-Laagri F-2 Suurgildi C-2 Suurtüki B-2 Tartu H-4/J-6 Tatari H/I-3 Teatri square E-4 Tedre I-1/J-2 Tehnika G/I-2 Telliskivi G-2/H-1 Terase G/H-4 Tihase I-1 Tina G-4 Tobiase H-4 Tolli B-3 Tondi J-2 Tõnismägi H-2 Toom-Kooli D-1 Toom-Rüütli C-2 Toompea E-1 Toompuiestee C-1 Toonela I-4 Tööstuse A-1 Tormi G-5 Town Hall D-2 Tuha H-5 Tulbi H-1 Tulika H-1/I-2 Turba G-6 Türi J-2/3 Tuukri G-4 Tuulemäe I-5 Tüve J-1 Tuvi H-2 Türnpu H-4 Ülemiste tee I-5 Uue maailma I-2 Uus B/D-3 Uus turg D-3 Uus-Kalamaja F-2 Uus-Sadama G-4 Vabaduse v. E-2 Vabriku G-2 Väike-Ameerika I-2 Väike-Karja D-3 Väike-Kloostri C-2 Väike-Laagri F-2 Väike-Sõjamäe J-6 Vaimu B/C-3 Valli D-3 Vana-Kalamaja B-1 Vana turg D-3 Vana-Lõuna I-3 Vana-Viru D-4 Vana-Posti D-2 Vanaturu kael D-2 Vase G-4 Veerenni I/J-3 Veetorni H-2 Vene C-3 Vesivärava G-4 Videviku I-2 Vilmsi G-4 Vineeri I-3 Virmalise I-2 Viru D-3/4 Võidujooksu G-6 Võistluse I-4 Voorimehe C-2 Weidemanni G-4 Weizenbergi G-5 Wismari E-1 93 Belarus J-2, Magdaleena 3, section b, tel. 651 55 Government & State Estonian Foreign Ministry E-4, Islandi väljak 1, tel. 637 70 00/637 70 92, fax 637 70 99, vminfo@vm.ee, www.vm.ee. Government C-1, Rahukohtu 3, tel. 693 55 55, fax 693 55 54, valitsus@rk.ee, www.valitsus.ee. Parliament C/D-1, Lossi plats 1a, tel. 631 63 31, fax 631 63 34, riigikogu@riigikogu.ee, www.riigikogu.ee. President Toomas Hendrik Ilves G-5, Weizenbergi 39, tel. 631 62 02, fax 631 62 50, vpinfo@vpk.ee, www. president.ee. Prime Minister Andrus Ansip C-1, Rahukohtu 3, tel. 693 57 01/693 55 55, fax 693 55 54, peaminister@riik. ee, www.peaminister.ee. International organisations European Union Information Centre G-3, Laikmaa 15, 1st floor, tel. 626 44 33/630 69 55, comm-rep-tll@ ec.europa.eu. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. International Organisation for Migration (IOM) H-3, Narva mnt. 11d, tel. 611 63 66, fax 611 63 67, iomtallinn@iom.int, www.iom.int. Nordic Council of Ministers B-2, Lai 29, tel. 627 31 00, fax 627 31 10, info@norden.ee, www.norden.ee. Open Estonia Foundation D-4, Estonia pst. 5a, tel. 631 37 91, fax 631 37 96, info@oef.org.ee, www.oef. org.ee. UNICEF P.O. Box 3324, 10506 Tallinn, tel. 641 33 00, fax 641 33 83, unicef@unicef.ee, www.unicef.ee. World Health Organisation (WHO) H-4, Gonsiory 29, tel./fax 626 97 31, tel. 626 97 36, est@who.org.ee. Municipality City Centre Government B-2, Nunne 18, tel. 645 72 00, fax 645 72 49, kesklinn@tallinnlv.ee. Mayor Edgar Savisaar D-2, Vabaduse väljak 7, tel. 640 41 41, fax 640 43 27, lvpost@tallinnlv.ee, www. tallinn.ee. Tallinn City Council C-4, Vana-Viru 12, tel. 694 32 01, fax 694 32 49, infopunkt@tallinnlv.ee, www.tallinn.ee. Tallinn City Government E-2, Vabaduse väljak 7, tel. 640 41 41, fax 640 43 27, lvpost@tallinnlv.ee, www. tallinn.ee. Tallinn In Your Pocket October - November 2008 INDEX 360º Academic Hostel Admiral Aed African Kitchen Allee al Sole Amarillo Americana Angel Anneli Viik Handmade Chocolates Café Argentiina Ariran Arizona Saloon Artemis Souvlaki Asian Aroma Astoria Palace Atlantida Baieri Kelder Bakuu Balthasar Baltic Hotel Vana Wiru Bangkok Barons Basiilik Basso Bazar Beer House Bern Bocca Bogapott Boheme Bonaparte BonBon Bonnie & Clyde Börsi Baar Bosphorus Bossanova/Corallo Boulangerie/Bestseller Braavo Briston Apartments Buenos Aires Buongiorno Burrito Bus C'est La Vie Café Amigo Café Boulevard Café Kompass Café Mmuah Café Peterson Café Pushkin Café Rose Cafe VS Café VS Can-Can Room Cantina Carramba Caravan Central Market Chedi China Inn Chocolaterie City Bike Hostel City Bike Tours City Guesthouse Clarion Hotel Euroopa Clazz Club 26 Club von Überblingen Complemento Da Vinci/Café Leonardo Deja Vu Depeche Mode Domina Inn City Dominic 60 28 31 36 30, 91 24 40 48 41 54, 62 53 31 42 59 36 31 60 63 35 32 40 19 49 16 40 57 46 35, 59 19 40 55 54 35, 55 60 60 63 58 32 54 24 25 31 40 60 35 60 54 54 43, 54 55 46 53 56 36 63 48 51 83 31 33 55 28 68 24 19 36, 56 90, 91 60 40 40 57 59 16 36 Dorell 28 Dzingel 24 Eesti Maja 34 Egoist 50 Elevant 36 Emilio Hidalgo 59 Energia Kohvik 55 Erel Apart. & Residences 26 EstAdventures 68 Estonian Open Air Museum 72 Euphoria 28 Euroaudioguide 68 Eurohostel 28 Everest Kathmandu 31 Fellini 40 First Lounge 57 Fish & Wine 48 Gianni 40 Gloria 50 Gloria Veinikelder 65 Golden Dragon 33 Gorent Apartments 26 Grand Hostel 28 Grand Tallinn 36 Grillhaus Daube 51 H.H. Rüütel 52 Hai Long 48 Hellemani Kõrts 58 Hell Hunt 56 Holy Spirit Church 67 Hookah House 36, 57 Hopner 36 Hotel Skåne 22 House 36 House café 54 Il Gallo Nero 65 Il Patio 40 Imperial Pub 58 In Studio Vinum 65 In Vino Veritas 65 Ipanema Rodizio 32 Island Bar & Cafe 58 Ites Apartments 26 Jasmine 33 Jőujaam 58 Kaerajaan 34 Kaheksa 57 Kalev Spa Hotel 21 Kalma 91 Kapten Tenkeš 36 Karja Café 54 Karja Kelder 58 Karl Friedrich 50 Kiek in de Kök 70 Klafira 46 Kolme Näoga Mees 65 Kolumbus Krisostomus 56 Kompressor 58 Kristiine Keskus 87 Kroonu Ait 86 Ku:lsa:l 90 34 Kuldse Notsu Kőrts Kuluaar 51 Kumanets 46 L'Ermitage 19 La Casa Del Habano 59 Lasso 63 Le Château 35 Leibur 54 Levist väljas 59 Lounge 24 57 LoveSexMoney 61 Mademoiselle 53 Maharaja 36 Maiasmokk 53 Maikrahv 44 Marat 61 Marcelle 49 Marine Mine Museum 70 Merchant's House 16 Merineitsi 38 Meriton Grand Hotel 91 Meriton Grand Hotel Tallinn 16 Metropol 20 Mirtake 63 Mister XXX 63 Mobile Old Town Tour 68 Molly Malone's 56 Monks Bunk 28 Mõõkkala 48 Moses 42 Moskva 54 Musi 65 Must Lammas 32 Narva Kohvik 55 Naval Officers' Club 72 Negossiant 65 Nevskij 46 Nimega Baar 56 Nimeta Baar 56 Nordic Hotel Forum 20 Novell 49 NovoStay Apartments 26 Ö 34 O'Malleys 58 Olde Hansa 44 Old Estonia 38, 65 OldHouse Apartments 26 OldHouse Guesthouse 24 OldHouse Hostel 28 Old Town Alur 28 Old Town Backpackers 28 Old Town Maestro's 20 Olevi Residents 20 Oliver 51 Panoraam 61 Park Avenue 38 Park Lounge 49 Parlament 61 Pascha 60 Patarei Prison 70 Pegasus 50, 57 Peking 33 Peppersack 44, 54 Pika Jala 35 Pika Mündi 58 Pirita TOP SPA 21 Pirosmani 32 Pizza Grande 41 PizzAmore 41 Pizzeria al Sole 41 Popular 57 Privé 62 PUBlic House 52 Radisson SAS 16 Rae Kohvik 55 Rasastra Apartments 27 Rasastra Bed & Breakfast 29 RED Group Apartments 27 Restoran Margarita 50 Reval Café Müürivahe 14 55 Reval Café Restaurant 38 Reval Café Vene 1 53 Reval Hotel Central 20, 91 Revalia Grill House 51 Reval Inn Tallinn 22 Rock Cafe 56 Romeo Family Apartments 27 Rotermanni Kaubamaja 87 Saiakang 53 Sakala Residence 27 Sauna Village 91 Savoy Boutique 17 Scandic Palace 20 Schlössle 17 Scotland Yard 56 Seasons 50 Seduction Discotheque 62 Senso 38 Sigari Maja 59 Silk 42 Silk Sushi Bar 43 Sindbad Kebab 46 Soho 63 Sokos Hotel Viru 20 Söögiplats 60 Sossi Klubi 62 Soul 42 Spaghetteria Davinci 54 Spider 62 Spirit Café 54 St. Barbara 20 St. Bridget's Convent Ruins 73 St. Michael Juusturestoran 33 St. Olaf's Church Tower 66 St. Olav Hotel Restaurant 46 St. Patrick's 58 St. Petersbourg 17 Stefanie's 38 Stravinsky 49 Stroomi 24 Sushi House 43 Susi 23 Syrtaki Taverna 36 T.G.I. Friday's 30 Taanilinna Hotell 20 Taanilinna veinikelder 65 Tähetorni 23 Tallink City Buffet & Restaurant38 Tallink City Hotel 22 Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel21 Tatari 53 23 Tchaikovsky 47 Teatri Puhvet 49 Telegraaf 18 Terrarium 62 Tervisex Wine Lounge 65 Texas Honky Tonk 59 Theatre & Music Museum 71 The Bronze Soldier (Aljosha) 72 The Englishman Pub 59 The Lost Continent 31, 59 The Old Club 58, 60 Three Sisters 18 Three Sisters Restaurant 51 Three Sisters Wine Bar 65 Tigu 44 Toscana 41 Travel 38 Tristan ja Isolde 53 Troika 47 Turg 38, 52 Uniquestay 22 Uniquestay Mihkli 23 Vanaema Juures 34 Vana Toomas 44 Vana Wiru 58 Vapiano 41 Venus 62 Vertigo 51 Viru Inn 18 Von Krahl 56 Wana Tunnel 49 X Club 63Z Zebra Café 43, 49 99 October - November 2008 otermanni In Your Pocket Videos In Your Pocket has set up a YouTube account http:// www.youtube.com/InYourPocketGuides where you will find a number of short travel videos about the cities we cover. Help us to make it the best travel video site around by adding your YouTube videos to the Tallinn In Your Pocket group http://www.youtube.com/group/tallinn. The best videos will be embedded in our online guides. Flower power The giving of flowers is a serious business in Estonia, and before you rush off to buy flowers there are several rules and superstitions you should consider if you don’t want to offend. Flowers are given at all the usual occasions, such as birthdays, weddings, anniversaries, funerals and basically any other time deemed a celebration. It’s almost unheard of to turn up at a birthday party without at least a single flower for the birthday boy or girl. Unless you’re handing over a huge bunch of flowers, ensure the total number of stems is an odd one. Even numbers are reserved for the dead, so unless you want to give your date a subtle message, don’t forget. After 10 this rule doesn’t really apply, probably because people stop counting. Roses are the most popular flower and it’s perfectly acceptable to hand over a single rose, but save red ones for your lover. With the exception of roses, white flowers represent death. Obviously you should never give an older man or woman any white flower. Blue flowers, particularly amongst Estonia’s Russian speaking population, are thought to represent wealth and are generally considered impressive. Orchids, due to their long life span, represent longevity and strength, and lilies are good for showing respect. You should be cautious with red carnations as they carry Soviet connotations for many Estonians. Before independence, wreaths of red carnations were often placed at communist monuments and Soviet dignitaries often wore a single red carnation on their lapel during official functions. With all this taken into account, you’re pretty much prepared to go forth and join in on the frenzy of Estonian flower giving. Have Your Say If you have had an experience to remember at any of the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website now has a module below it for you to comment on the places we write about. You can agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to hell (in the case of angry restaurant owners unhappy with their reviews). Superstitions Like any self-respecting culture, Estonia has its share of folk beliefs concerning good and bad luck. The standard European rules about breaking mirrors, walking under ladders, etc, apply, but obeying some Estonia-specific guidelines will help ensure that your trip is fortuitous and hex-free. Never shake hands over a threshold. If you see a black cat cross your path, the only way to ward off the inevitable bad luck is to immediately turn your head and spit three times over your left shoulder. It goes without saying that it’s also bad luck to be walking behind someone whenever a black cat is in the area. In a similar fashion, if you forget something at home and have to turn around and go back for it, the bad luck caused by your forgetfulness can be neutralised by glancing in a mirror before you head back out. This is also a good opportunity for you to make sure you haven’t forgotten anything else important, like your trousers for instance. Finally, financial reward will be yours if you’re riding in a motor vehicle that passes under a railroad bridge the same time a train is passing overhead. It’s unclear how many accidents have been caused by drivers speeding up for this one, but the people whose luck improved most were probably those with good insurance. SpaLife (Shnelli Day Spa) B-1, Toompuiestee 37, tel. 6310160, info@spalife.ee, w w w.spalife. ee. Hair & beauty salon and spa. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A 100Kč = €3.42; GBP2.30; US$4.13 (20 March 2006) COMPLIMENTARY COPY provided by your host Enjoy your stay!