Train buff, and pround holder of over 65 rail pass, Colin McAlpin continues his journey across Ireland by railway... next stop
Cork.
Heuston Station, built in l846 on the
River Liffey, is how a mainline railway terminus should look: an imposing, solid, greystone building of classic design and build. When it was built, as the starting point for the Great Southern and Western Railway Company services and originally named
Kingsbridge Station after a nearby bridge over the Liffey, it was the largest enclosed building in the world.
It was renamed Heuston in l966 after
Sean Heuston, a hero of the Easter Rising against British rule, who worked in the offices. Railway historians should check the panels on the outside of the building commemorating the cities – Dublin, Cork and Limerick – and the companies involved in the development of the line. The station, while large, has the usual facilities – small café, shop, various vending machines – passengers require but since it is in the heart of Dublin, served by bus number 90 and the
LUAS light railway from the city centre, they are more than adequate. The GSWR was the largest of Ireland’s major railway companies and today the
Ironrod Eireann lines from Heuston serve
Cork,
Limerick,
Killarney,
Kildare,
Waterford and
Tralee as well as the small commuter stations on the
DART line.
The
Dublin-Cork run is one of the longest in Ireland:
three hours between the island’s largest and third largest cities. There is a buffet service providing a range of hot and cold snacks and drinks and a trolly service. The scenery along the route is not particularly spectacular – green fields, rivers and streams and distant mountains – but there are several interesting and historic towns to be explored.
DUBLIN-THURLESNot all Dublin-Cork InterCity trains stop at every station on the line so towns your train just happens to whizz through are still worth returning to to explore. If, like the Irish, you love your horses
Kildare is a ‘must’. The station, built in 1846, is the gateway to the
Irish National Stud and the world-famous
Curragh Racecourse, home to all five of the Irish classics: the 1000gns, 2000gns, Irish Derby, Irish Oaks and Irish St Leger. Look for lots of lovely horses in the surrounding fields.
Though there is a Co. Kildare, the town isn’t the county seat: it’s
Naas. Kildare was founded around a shrine to Celtic godess Brigid, who as St Brigid founded a monastry for nuns and monks. Well worth a visit is the beautiful
Japanese Gardens at the National Stud.
Portarlington Station, built in 1847, links
Athlone,
Galway,
Ballina and
Westport.
Portlaoise has an 800-year-old hill-top castle at Dunamase and nearby are the
Slieve Bloom Mountains. The small halt at
Ballybrophy is a link to
Limerick.
Built in 1848, the award-winning
Thurles Station is the gateway to a rich collection of religious settlements, mansions and castles but for
GAA – Gaelic games – fans this is the mecca, where it all began in
Hayes Hotel in
l884. The neat little town in the
Suir Valley, surrounded by fine farmland, boasts the second largest Gaelic stadium after Dublin’s Croke Park:
Semple Stadium has a capacity of 53,500 and there are plans to extend this. The stadium, well worth a visit, has a fine museum.
THURLES-CHARLEVILLEIt began life as Tipperary Junction and then became Limerick Junction, it’s two miles from Tipperary Town … where the welcome sign says ‘You’ve come a long way …’ referring to the famous World War One soldiers’ song
It’s a Long Way to Tipperary. The junction is famous for being the only railway section in Ireland with two lines crossing at an almost 90degree angle: the Dublin-Cork and Limerick-Waterford routes. There are connections to
Ennis and
Tralee.
There are several pretty cottages running alongside the line in a small hamlet, which does offer the delights of a pub.
Charleville Station, built in l849, serves the small town of the same name. Situated in the
Golden Vale it hosts the annual
North Cork Drama Festival.
CHARLEVILLE-CORKMallow, in the
Blackwater Valley, lies two miles from
Cork Racecourse and is a thriving business centre. The station, built in l849, is one of the biggest in Ireland. It has strong links to the
War of Independence against British rule in the early 1900s. The
Ten Arch Bridge over the Blackwater was bombed during the
Irish Civil War and rebuilt. Just outside the town, at
Beenalaght, there is a circle of six standing stones.
Kent Station, built in l893, sees the end of the run at Cork. The station, originally Glanmire Road but re-named after
Thomas Kent for the 50th anniversary of the Easter Rising against British rule, is the only one of six remaining in the city.
There are plans for a new, larger station since, for such an important city as Cork, Kent is simply not up to scratch: it has little room and inadequate services for travelers. There is a film connection with the station for it was used as a location in l979 for
The First Great Train Robbery, starring Sean Connery, Donald Sutherland and Lesley-Anne Down.
Cork city centre lies on an island in the
River Lee which flows into
Cork Harbour, the world’s largest natural harbour after Sydney. It is a magnificent, historic and cultural city, founded as a monastic settlement in the sixth century by
St Finbarr (the Church of Ireland cathedral is named for him). Cork (Irish for
marshy place) was the
2005 European Capital of Culture and contains many fine theatres, galleries and museums (
Cork Museum offers a rich account of the city’s history).
It is the second largest city in the Republic of Ireland after Dublin and the third in Ireland (Belfast in NI is the second). It is also a terrific shopping – and walking – city with the main area being on
St Patrick’s Street and
Grand Parade. There are many interesting alleys, markets (
Princes Market and the
English Market are musts for foodies) and side streets (
Oliver Plunkett Street has excellent boutiques, cafes, restaurants and bars). One highlight of a visit to Cork is to visit
St Anne’s Church and personally ring the world-famous
Shandon Bells, for a small fee you get a music sheet. Corkonians like to call their city the ‘real capital of Ireland’ … who could possibly argue!