The jewel in the crown of Peja's hotels, the Hotel Royal is located opposite the main square and is doing its best to live up to its name. Doing its best however isn’t very good at all. Despite a freshly renovated restaurant and well-dressed staff the rooms are unrenovated and rather brown, with tatty carpets, new showers and nothing else. The chosen home of the original UN troops who moved in just after the 1999 conflict, Hotel Royal does indeed have something of a barrack feel about it. The current manager is a charming and very proud man, who swore blind that he was on the verge of fitting Jacuzzis and televisions (that’s right, no televisions) as soon as he possibly can. At the current ridiculous price you’d be a fool to stay here unless everywhere else in town was full.

(singles €38, doubles €74)