A short trip from Pristina, two memorials remind the visitor of a gruesome battle that took place on Kosovo's plains over 600 years ago.

Gazimestan
"Whoever is a Serb and of Serb birth, and of Serb blood and heritage, and comes not to fight at     the Battle of Kosovo, may he never have the progeny his heart desires!” starts the 1845 nationalist adaptation of the so-called Kosovo curse. And while latter-day science may question the site’s birth control powers, the site of the famous Battle of Kosovo, just 10km from Pristina, may be architecturally uninspiring but it remains a must-see for those interested in the history of the region.
The Gazimestan memorial tower stands in the fields where, in the summer of 1389, the Ottoman Empire clashed with the Serbian medieval kingdom, involving many tens of thousands of troops. Almost every aspect of the Battle of Kosovo is contested. While Serbs mark the clash on June 28, St Vitus Day, most believe it actually took place on June 15. And while Serbs often describe the battle as their empire’s defining defeat at the hands of the Ottomans, it was probably more of a draw. Less contentious is the fact that both Serbian Prince Lazar and Sultan Murat, leader of the Ottomans, died in the battle, along with thousands of others. Both men are thus commemorated at the site. The battle, to this day, plays an essential part in Serbian nationalist narrative, reinforcing the national identity as a bastion against the orient and Islam.
Built to the not-so-dizzying height of 25 metres, Gazimestan tower nonetheless provides excellent views across the plain of Kosovo. The tower was erected in 1953 on a raised platform, surrounded by some bizarre concrete chimneys. At the front is the inscription of the Kosovo curse, supposedly written by Prince Lazar, the Serbian leader killed on the battlefield on 1389, but first put to paper by the nationalist poet Vuk Karadzic. The tower not only marks the location of the legendary battle: in 1989, it was also the location for Slobodan Milosevic’s most notorious speech marking the battle’s 600th anniversary, which many historians consider pivotal in the collapse of Yugoslavia.
Take the winding staircase up to the top platform to admire the view and consult an ornamental map of how the Battle of Kosovo panned out. You can admire the mountains separating Kosovo and Serbia, the suburban edges of Pristina and even the hulking monstrosities that are Kosovo A and B, the country’s power plants spewing out toxic smoke. It may sound a little underwhelming, but in the right light it can be spectacular. Just down the hill from the tower stands the small Bajraktar Türbe, a monument for Sultan Murat's standard bearer, now an important place of worship for the Sadije dervish order.

Sultan Murat’s Türbe
Across the main road, you will find Sultan Murat's Türbe, or mausoleum. Through an arched stone gate is a little complex renovated in recent years with Turkish funds. The fine stone mausoleum houses a large tomb which doesn’t actually contain the remains of Sultan Murat – they have been moved to the imperial museum in Bursa, Turkey. The building, constructed in the 1850s, is pleasant enough, but there is little to see inside. Perhaps the most notable sight is the 700-year-old mulberry tree beside it, one of the few survivors from the battle. You are likely to encounter the keepers of the tomb on your trip. A man-and-wife team has been looking after the building for generations, and the current incumbents are Sanija and Fahri Türbedari.
 
Practicalities
Both sites are along the main road north from Pristina to Mitrovica, around 10km from the city. As you climb to the crest of the first hill, you will spot the tower 400m off the road to the right. At time of research the main road was a mess as it is being transformed, slowly, into a highway, and there are no signs pointing to the tower or tomb. Take the first available to the right after you spot the tower and follow the dirt track next to an unfinished warehouse until you reach the parking by the security gate. You will need some form of identity to show the disinterested Kosovo Police officers, who recently took over providing security from Kosovo’s NATO force, KFOR. Plans are afoot to open an information centre here and provide a multilingual guide.
Sultan Murat's Türbe is 1600 metres further north along the main road. Keep your eyes peeled for the small domed building, 200m to the left. It's an easy trip by car or taxi (visiting both spots should cost around €12), but you can also grab a bus to Mitrovica and ask the driver to drop you at the main road close to either spot. Buses run every 15 minutes all week and can be picked up at the main bus station, tickets should cost you €0.50. Simply flag down a passing bus to get to the next site, or back to town.