Pristina
Sightseeing

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Sightseeing

Like most Balkan cities, Pristina was a small and dusty market town until fairly recently. The city suffered bombing in the Second World War and again during the 1999 Kosovo crisis, but unfortunately suffered most damage to its cultural monuments due to socialist planning and modern-day neglect.

In the 1950s, demolition of parts of the old centre took place in the name of building a new socialist city - publications at the time boasted that "old shop fronts and other shaky old structures are quickly disappearing to make room for fine tall, modern-style buildings.”

The lovely little Catholic Church was demolished, as was the region's largest covered market, a mosque (which made way for the Iliria hotel), the synagogue, a hamam bath house and many Ottoman-era houses. The rivers Pristevka and Vellushka were hidden beneath concrete. This all goes to explain the apparent dearth of charm.

It's a scary fact that the careless attitude of the 1950s still lives on. Several listed buildings have disappeared without trace over the past few years and the remaining monuments are often in poor condition. What's even worse is that people protecting Pristina's cultural heritage are in danger. In 2000, city planner Rexhep Luci was conducting an inventory of destroyed historic buildings and unauthorised wild construction when he was murdered on the street. The crime is still unsolved and illegal buildings are still going up.

Despite all this, it's pleasant to stroll around the former bazaar area, taking in the lively goings-on at the markets or watching the mosques fill up at prayer time.

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