Pristina's liveliest area is without doubt the large bazaar, east of Rruga Ilir Konusheci. Although most of it was destroyed in the 1950s, it still retains the bustling atmosphere typical of all Balkan markets. All kinds of goods are for sale: fruit, vegetables, Albanian flags, cigarettes (stacked up in walls of cartons), kitchen utensils, car parts, dodgy mobile phones and more, making for a fascinating stroll. Many of the friendly traders are returned refugees and know German, Italian or English, and will be happy to strike up conversation.