Publish at Scribd or explore others: Travel magick pocket

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps KYIV December 2008 - January 2009 Z Novym Rokom! Discovering winter New Year’s Eve Kyiv-style A walk in the snow № 32 www.inyourpocket.com Contents Sightseeing A walk in the snow Discovering winter Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra Museums 51 61 62 57 59 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents The Basics Arriving & History 8 14 18 30 45 49 Getting around Mail & Phones Planes, trains, buses & car rental Directory Foreign representations 65 Business 66 Lawyers, real estate & foreign representations Lifestyle 68 Health & Sports 70 Shopping 72 Culture & Events The best time for theatres and galleries Where to stay A fine selection of places to spend the night Dining & Nightlife Smachnoho! Cafés Nightlife Bars, clubs, and pubs Maps & Index Street register City centre map City map Country map Index 74 75 76 78 79 We offer the following package of incoming travel services in Kyiv and all over Ukraine:             VISA support in case of buying a travel package. Meeting at the airport and TRANSFERS. ACCOMMODATION at 3*–5* hotels and luxury apartments. GUIDE and interpreter assistance (English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Greek, Polish, Czech, Chinese, Japanese, Hungarian and Hebrew). Group and Individual TOURS. Tours to CHERNOBYL Zone. HUNTING and INCENTIVE Tours. Domestic and international AIR TICKETS. Domestic TRAIN TICKETS. TRANSPORTATION and car rental. MEALS and beverages arrangements. Business meetings and CONFERENCES. 17/52 Khmelnytskoho str., off.523 Business-centre "Leonardo" 01601, Kyiv, Ukraine Tel./fax: +38 044 206-22-00 E-mail: info@newlogic.ua www.newlogic.ua We do know what is important to make your every visit to Ukraine a pleasant and unforgettable moment in your life! December 2008 - January 2009 License — series AB No. 020277, issued by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Ukraine from 24.03.2006 4 ForeWorD Kyiv In Your Pocket recently intercepted a letter written by a five-year-old Kyivite addressed to Santa. It read: Dear Did Moroz (Santa Clause), All I want for Christmas is my two front teeth, a transparent government and a stable economy/ hryvnia. Regards, Andrii We were so impressed by this youngster’s wishes that we changed the envelope’s return address in order to receive Santa’s response here at the office. It read: Dear Andrii, I regret to inform you that you live in Ukraine. Unfortunately, the hryvnia has dropped to an all time low to the dollar, your government officials have turned Verhovna Rada (Parliament) into a boxing ring and your economy is in shatters. Sadly, Santa had all of his money invested in a US company called Citibank, which recently lost 90% of its value. Sorry to say, I can only afford one of your locally produced goods. Please choose from the following gift options: - unwanted steel from the East - an overpriced Daewoo from Zaporizhzhia - useless souvenirs from the Carpathian region - a bottle of vodka I apologize for these difficult times, my dear Andrii, but keep your chin up. Your people have suffered far worse and have always risen from the ashes stronger and prouder. There are better times ahead. Yours truly, Did Moroz ForeWorD Europe In Your Pocket 5 Odesa In Your Pocket, a mini-guide to the jewel of the Ukrainian coast, became the 50th In Your Pocket guide when published in November. It followed hard on the heels of Moscow and Banja Luka, two cities pocketed in October. The year 2009 will see more In Your Pockets, in Sarejevo, Glasgow and Vienna. If you want to join the Pocket Revolution and publish your own guide, to your city, get in touch at publisher@inyourpocket. com. You should also make sure you take a look at our new, much improved website, finally launched in November. It is packed with exclusive content, and offers you the chance to really get involved, writing your own reviews or commenting on our features. Go surf at inyourpocket.com. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Kyiv In Your Pocket Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, Suite 25 Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. +380 44 467 78 20 fax +380 44 467 78 30 kyiv@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Registration No. KB 7467 © Neolitas-KIS Printed by Express-Polygraph, Kyiv Published 6 times per year Editorial Editor Brigham Marriott Researcher Natasha Martisova Layout & Design KIS Ltd. Photos Oleksandr Kilievich (OK) Maps © Ukrgeodezkartografia; © Volodymyr Triukhan, vovtru@mail.ru Sales & Circulation General Manager Alla Zhylina, alla@kis.kiev.ua Sales & Circulation Managers Ludmila Mednikova, mila@kis.kiev.ua; Yuriy Ivaschenko, ra@kis.kiev.ua Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Cover photo: Alena Tkachenko (www. alenatv.io.com.ua). Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 46 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com. In Your Pocket Europe’s City Guide inyourpocket.com E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S December 2008 - January 2009 Kyiv In Your Pocket 8 arrIVInG By Bus All international buses arrive at Kyiv’s central bus station (центральний автовокзал). The station is still waiting for its European renovations and sits like a hideous centrepiece on Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. To be fair, the entire square is currently undergoing reconstruction, so we can hope for something beautiful and modern in the not so distant future. In spite of the congestion caused by the construction, service at the station has remained constant. A currency exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00). Taxis are always on hand and can take you to the city centre for approximately 50Hr. Trolleybuses N°1, 2, 4, 12 and 42 won’t get you to the centre of town but will take you the one stop to Lybids’ka (Либідська) metro station. By foot, head across the bridge then follow the underpass to the right to get to Lybids’ka. All passengers emerge through the same set of sliding doors into a sea of onlookers in the main hall. You will find two currency exchange offices (обмін валют) to the left (see The Basics, Money). However, keep in mind taxis usually accept dollars and Euros, plus exchange rates are better in the city centre. There are credit card-operated public telephones (see Mail & Phones) in the main hall and in the post office down the corridor to the left. Getting to town If you surrender to the waves of taxi drivers offering their services, a 30-45 minute ride to the centre will set you back about 150Hr. For the budget traveller, buses and minivans leave roughly every 30 minutes from in front of the building. They charge 30Hr and will drop you off about an hour later at the southern train station. east on the red line. Various trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart from the central station. Those with light bags and fresh legs can head down the main road and turn right at Shevchenko Boulevard (бульв. Т.Шевченка), which runs into Khreschatyk. arrIVInG Press & Mail I have just returned from a few days holiday in Kyiv and the In Your Pocket guide was indispensable. Not only was it very informative and easy to read, but the descriptions and sense of humour were compulsive reading and it felt like a very personal explanation just for me! I look forward to returning at some point and will pick up another copy on my arrival - the one I have is very worn after only a few days. Well done Robin Rennie (UK), November 3, 2008 “In Your Pocket guides are a godsend. They are impressively up to date and clearly written by people who live in the city. Invaluable” The Sun Herald (Australia), September 7, 2008 “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.” The Irish Times, August 8, 2008 “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” New York Times, July 9, 2008 “Death of the guide book? Pah! They’re just diversifying. Print off your own PDFs…” The Times, April 18, 2008 (In naming In Your Pocket as one of 10 guide book publishers to trust, in the wake of the Lonely Planet scandal). “If you haven’t come across In Your Pocket (IYP) before, bookmark them now. IYP’s print guides can be found scattered around the hostels of eastern Europe, and their online coverage of 57 eastern European towns and cities (and, somewhat randomly, Belfast and Dublin too) is a brilliant resource written by excellent writers whose slant is always off the trail.” The Guardian, February 28, 2008 9 By car When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your driver’s license and your car’s registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian state company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you don’t speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine. By train The refurbished central railway station (центральнйи вокзал) has now been joined by a futuristic-looking southern railway station (південний вокзал), with the platforms located between the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs to the left from the central main hall boasts comfy couches for a 5Hr admission fee. Currency exchange (обмін валют) points and ATMs (банкомат) are in the main halls of each station. Telephone calls can be made by paying money at a window on the 2nd floor near the central station’s escalators and then proceeding to the appropriate booth. Coin-operated pay telephones are scattered throughout the building, while card-operated ones are mostly outside the central entrance. Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi rides to Khreschatyk Street (Хрещатик) area cost 20Hr and up. The entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (Вокзальна) is to your left as you exit the central station look for the green letter M. Khreschatyk is only three stops By Plane Boryspil State International Airport (Аеропорт Бориспіль) is where almost all international flights land and depart from. The smaller Kyiv (Zhulyani) Airport (Аеропорт Київ (Жуляни)) is only 8km from the centre of the city and handles mostly domestic travel. Located 34km east of Kyiv, Boryspil is a small but modern facility. Passport and customs officials do speak English, so don’t worry if you haven’t yet mastered Ukrainian or Russian (see The Basics, Language). Foreigners are supposed to receive registration cards (basically advertising fliers) when they enter Ukraine - save these to present upon leaving the country. Strap on your wings! Low-cost airlines continue to expand in the Ukrainian tourism market. Romanian Carpatair was the first discounter to set up shop in the capital with regular flights between Kyiv and Bucharest. It now offers flights from Kyiv to Italy, Germany and Greece with transfers to Timisoara. The incorporation of these flights has opened up many more opportunities for business and tourism. Carpatair originally selected Zhuliany Airport (15 minutes drive from centre and in the opposite direction as Boryspil International Airport) for all arrivals and departures; however, from October 2008 Zhuliany Airport has been closed for reconstruction and the airline is currently operating out of Boryspil (KBP). The cheapest round trip fare from Bucharest goes for €320. Following closely on the heels of Carpatair is the Hungarian airline Wizz Air. Roundtrip flights from Boryspil to L’viv, Kharkiv, Simferopol and Odesa began in July 2008. Tickets for these flights cost less than train tickets! One way rates start from 68Hr. Beginning December 17, 2008 Wizz will offer service from Kyiv to London Luton Airport, Cologne, Dortmund and Katowice/Krakow. Round trip to London will cost from 1030Hr. In October 2008 one of the biggest Middle-East and North Africa low-cost carriers Air Arabia launched non-stop service from Kyiv to Sharjah, United Arab Emirates. Is it possible to apply the term “low-cost” when fares start at $442? Like most things connected with business in Ukraine, the market for low-cost airlines will continue to expand at impressive rates. The only problems are (cue the broken record) sluggish infrastructural upgrades and left-over Soviet bureaucracy. Most of us first arrived to Ukraine via Boryspil, and we don’t need to be reminded of the terminal ceilings that, at any moment, could cave in on our heads and the long wait just to be screwed by customs officers. www.inyourpocket.com Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 10 BasICs Kyiv vs. Kiev No, this isn’t a fixture in the Ukrainian football league. These are the Ukrainian and Russian spellings, respectively, of the city to which this guidebook is dedicated. Most Westerners will be more used to the Russian version, but for rather obvious reasons ’Kyiv’ is generally preferred in Ukraine. BasICs Basic data Kyiv Population: 2 745 000 (July 2008) Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 70%, Russian 20%, Others 10%. 11 Street smarts Street Square Avenue Boulevard Bridge Embankment Highway Lane Descent вулиця (вул.) площа (пл.) проспект (просп.) бульвар (бульв.) міст набережна (наб.) шосе провулок (пров.) узвіз (VU-lytsia) (PLO-scha) (pro-SPEKT) (bul’-VAR) (mist) (NA-berezhna) (sho-SE) (pro-VU-lok) (uz-VIZ) Alcohol Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. Ukraine Population: 46 221 981 (July 2008) Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8% Russian 17.3% Belarusian 0.6% Moldovan 0.5% Crimean Tatar 0.5% Bulgarian 0.4% Hungarian 0.3% Romanian 0.3% Polish 0.3% Jewish 0.2% other 1.8% Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Danube Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. Disabled travellers Kyiv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. The central train station does have lifts for the platforms, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests. Roads Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads and 130 on highways. A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine. Borders Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Kyiv (see Directory/Foreign representatives). Electricity Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Kyiv, so bring your own. Safety They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Kyiv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times. Chernobyl The effects are still being felt 22 years later. The disaster occurred at 1:23 am on April 26, 1986, when a safety test of reactor N°4 went horribly wrong. Two explosions blew the top off the reactor, and radiation at least 100 times that of the Hiroshima and Nagasaki atomic bombs combined was released, in time spreading over the whole Northern Hemisphere. Belarus, only 12km north of Chernobyl, was worst hit. But in Ukraine 35,000 km2 of forest, or 40% of the country’s total forest area, was contaminated by fallout. Today six per cent of Ukraine’s overall territory remains contaminated. Of the current state budget, 5% still deals with the consequences of Chernobyl. By 2015, it is said that the disaster will have cost the Ukrainian economy $201 billion. Of the 800,000 ’liquidators’ brought in to clean up, it’s reported that anywhere from 25,000 to 100,000 have so far died due to radiation exposure. Thyroid and breast cancer have increased dramatically in contaminated areas. Although Kyiv is only 130km south of Chernobyl, the capital is completely safe. The Chernobyl Museum is an excellent place to learn more about this tragedy, while for the extreme tourist there are guided day trips to Chernobyl itself (see What to see). Language The country’s official language is Ukrainian. pendence in 1991, it has become much more widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions truly predominant. Since indepopular and Crimea and is Ukrainian Communism The USSR fell in 1991, but the effects of over 70 years of Communist rule are still felt and seen in Ukraine. Kyiv’s Lenin statue is not large but keeps watch over Bessarabs’ka Square - and believe it or not, it was named the world’s best monument at a 1939 international art exhibition in New York. Meanwhile, the Great Famine of 1932-1933 has so far warranted only a small monument near the entrance to St. Michael’s Church, although there are plans to build a larger one. Post-war communist architecture abounds in Ukraine’s capital, from the unforgivingly imposing Foreign Ministry building to the ‘wedding-cake’ Ukrainian House - today a cultural centre but formerly the Lenin Museum. Smoking You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it. Money The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. ATMs have become plentiful in Kyiv, and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. Floors Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first floor and so one. Market values How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonald’s Big Mac 15.00Hr €1.34 $1.98 Loaf of white bread 2.80Hr €0.41 $0.56 Snickers bar 3.50Hr €0.56 $0.56 Litre of vodka 25.00Hr €3.86 $4.95 Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 4.00Hr €0.46 $0.60 20 Marlboros 5.50Hr €0.80 $1.09 Public transport ticket 0.50Hr €0.08 $0.10 Dry-cleaning and 25.00Hr €2.31 $2.97 pressing one men’s shirt Roll of Kodak 200 speed 15.00Hr €2.31 $2.97 film, 24 exposures Exchange rates (as of November 25): €1 – 7.77Hr US$1 – 6.17Hr Climate 30 100 National holidays 75 20 10 0 50 25 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 0 -10 -20 January 1 January 7 March 8 April 19 April 20 May 1-2 May 9 June 7 June 28 August 24 New Year Orthodox Christmas Women’s Day Easter Sunday Easter Monday A day off for the workers Victory Day Trinity Constitution Day Independence Day Temperature, °C Rainfall, mm Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 12 BasICs Driving in Kyiv Most westerners will find driving Kyiv’s main thoroughfares relatively easy. The problems kick in when you drive anywhere outside these well-surfaced and signposted routes. The condition of most roads in Ukraine is basically wretched, especially after the winter thaw. Another problem is the decrepit traffic lights. They are not all that bright, and sometimes it is difficult to tell which light is actually lit and which just has the sun shining on it to make it appear lit. Road markings, especially the all-important centre line, often go missing. In this case you should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you have a special green arrow next to the red light. Booklets containing all official rules of the road can be purchased in Ukrainian and Russian just about anywhere books are sold. Rules in English have been spotted at the book market near the Petrivka metro station. The following is short list of unofficial rules of the road: - If you’re running late during peak, feel free to drive on sidewalks, cut through the park or drive in the opposite lanes against the flow of traffic. - If your Lada overheats, just leave it in the lane where it stalled and come back later after the traffic jam you just caused dies down. - If you’re driving on the highway and miss your exit, pull over into the right lane, turn your hazard lights on and proceed in reverse until you get back to the exit you wanted. Don’t worry about the cars speeding towards you; they are likely to get out of the way. - Wearing your seatbelt can be very irritating and can even cause injury. To disable that annoying seat belt alarm, try stuffing a small piece of cardboard into the buckling mechanism. In an attempt to eliminate theses and other idiotic behaviours that have led Ukraine to having one of the world’s worst road safety ratings, fines were increased in November 2008 by as much as 10 times. Drivers can now expect to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr for major violations such as drunk driving. New seat belt and helmet laws will be enforced. Fines for pedestrian violations have also increased. The days of being able to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, hopefully. Traffic patrol will be required to use video and photo surveillance for all traffic stops. According to Ukrainian law, foreign drivers must carry an international driving licence in addition to the licence from their home country. International licences can be acquired in your country of origin. Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with the National Auto Inspector (DAI). Parking is often impossible in the city centre, despite the ability to park on sidewalks. Many parking spaces are marked as pay zones and require special tickets. These parking passes can be purchased from parking attendants or from kiosks (usually nearby) that also sell bus, tram, and trolley bus tickets. Depending on the type of zone, expect to pay 3-10Hr per hour (each ticket is good for one hour). Failure to display the proper parking ticket can result in your car being booted. PuBLIC transPort Toilets Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Kyiv. The best ones can be found at the central train station and in underground shopping centres. The other end of the spectrum rears its ugly head at parks, beaches and some high-traffic McDonald’s locations. Many public toilets charge up to 1Hr or so. A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you around Kyiv. However, the existing trolleybuses (electric buses), trams (streetcars), buses, metro, microbuses and minivans are not enough to prevent frequent overcrowding. Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t inhale too deeply but do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children. Public transport starts running around 05:45 and closes down a bit after midnight. cities. Purchase your one way blue token for two hryvnia from the expressionless booth attendant or from the automatic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert your token and wait a second for the red light to turn green so the jaws of death don’t maim you. Monthly passes can be purchased from all token booths and are good from the first of the month. Pass rates are as follows: 15 days - 41Hr, 30 days - 80Hr, 3 months - 199Hr, one year - 365Hr. 13 or Ж = ladies or М or Ч = gentlemen Funicular Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has carried passengers between Podil, on the bank of the Dnipro, and the heights of Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. It offers not only a means of getting from A to B, but also a rising panoramic view of the Dnipro River and the forested left bank. After perusing the art and souvenirs of Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you may forego “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at Poshtova ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind the spectacular St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for adults, and children under seven ride free. Trolleybuses, trams and buses These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses can be purchased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks near stops and for 2Hr from conductors and the driver on board. You should immediately validate your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a 40Hr fine by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tickets are good for one journey only. One, 5, 7, 10, 15 and 30 day passes for trolleys, trams and buses cost 7.50, 27, 33, 47, 71 and 140Hr respectively. Ten, 15 and 30 day combo-passes for all types of surface transport can also be bought at kiosks and go for 21, 30 and 60Hr. Tipping Kyiv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask. Visas You can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay 90 days if you’re a citizen of any EU country, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Canada, USA and Japan. Everyone else still needs a visa from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas at foreign embassies can usually be processed in one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Note that many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Most foreigners don’t bother with getting work permits, however such negligence can bring about fines. To avoid such entanglements contact Kyiv Employment Centre (Zhylyanska vul. 47B, office 407, tel. 568 59 78/568 59 72) and get all the proper documents signed. The metro The metro is the jewel of the Kyiv transport system. While traffic snarls vehicles above ground, trains underground deliver passengers in a more timely and reliable fashion. Thought-provoking Soviet designs inside stations help pass the time while waiting for the next train. Life isn’t perfect, though, and neither is the metro. Personal space can become alarmingly tight, especially during rush hour and at night when trains run less frequently. Kyivites like to grumble about the recent fare hikes, but fees are, in fact, dirt cheap relative to those in other European Microbuses and minivans All forms of transit make scheduled stops except for microbuses and minivans. These privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route taxis can stop anywhere along their specified route. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver where to let you out when you’ve had enough. Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses and use the same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main stops posted on the vehicle’s windshield or side window before it speeds by. Fares are paid as you board and currently range from 2 to 3Hr, but are likely to increase. You don’t have to punch your ticket and there are no monthly passes available. Taxis In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis don’t exist, so you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. tel. +380 50 44 001 44. High quality service, English speaking drivers, credit cards accepted. EuroTaxi tel. 249 40 40 DeltaTaxi tel. 501 65 01 Kyiv Taxi tel. 502 02 02 Limusin tel. 502 08 08 M Kyiv Metro BREEZE Chauffeur Drive Service Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 14 CuLture & eVents Kyiv hosts some great performances in a range of artistic fields, from opera and ballet to classical music and art exhibitions. The best part is that you can visit such highquality events for much less than in the rest of Europe. Students really have it good with their discounts. Films are usually dubbed in Ukrainian without English subtitles, so unless it’s a Jackie Chan movie it may be hard to follow the plot. Some cinemas show recently released films in English. Prepare to book tickets at the desk as you would for a baseball or football match. You will be asked to choose a particular seat – you may pay a little more for the upper-deck. CuLture & eVents Classic music Andriivs’ka Church C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 23, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 278 58 61/486 54 90. Q Tickets 10-35Hr. House of Or gan and Chamb er Music G-6, Chervonoarmiys’ka 77, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 526 31 86, www.organhall.kiev.ua. Different classical concerts are hosted inside turn-of-the-century, Gothic-style St. Nicholas’ Cathedral. Q Tickets 10-40Hr. December 3 The National Music Academy Boys and Young Men Choir. The programme features works by Caccini, Bach, Frank, Ritter, Bayzin, Webber, Vedel, Arkhangelsky, Chesnokov and Stepurko. 4 Dmytro Bortnyansky Quintette. Mykola Sikora (tenor) and Natalia Okuneva (harp). The programme features works by Bortnyansky, Chopin, Brahms and Liatoshynsky. 6 Natalia Lavrenova (mezzo-soprano), Kostyantyn Trypolsky (baritone), Tetiana Tripolska (poano) and Iryna Kharchenko (organ). The programme features works by Albinoni, Liszt, Saint-Saëns, Dvořák, Massenet, Kern, Gershwin, Miller and Brodsky. 9 Chamber Ensemble “Kyiv”. Larysa Nazarenko (soprano), Viacheslav Piatygorsky (violin) and Maksym Sydorenko (organ). The programme features works by Albinoni, Bach, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, Ippolitov-Ivanov, Sviridov, Molchanov and Petrov. 10 Orchestra of the Ensemble of Classic Music. The programme features works by Bach, Haydn and Mozart. 12 Ukrainian Music in the World Culture. The programme features works by Mozart, Paganini, Lypynsky, Rheinberger, Respighi, Bortniansky, Barvinsky, Kolessa and Kolodub. 13 M. Lysenko Quartette. The programme features works by Albinoni, Vivaldi, Weber, Rossini and Respighi. 15 The Chamber Orchestra “Kyiv Brass”. Volodymyr Koshuba (organ). The programme features works by Purcell, Bach, Händel, Strauß, Fletcher, Reger, Stravinsky, Kolessa, Mushel and Ilkiv. 16 Tetiana Voitekh (piano) and Iryna Kharchenko (organ). The programme features works by Schubert, Mendelssohn, Wagner, Verdi, Widor, Piazzolla and Kolodub. 17 Premiere. The Spiritual Concert for the Memory of the Victims of the Great Famine (Holodomor) “Dream”. 18 An Evening of Ukrainian and Russian Romance and Song. 19 Iryna Kalynovska (organ). The programme features works by Buxtehude, Pachelbel, Purcell, Albinoni, Bach, Händel, Marcello, Mozart and Widor. 20 A Concert of Ancient Italian Music Masters. Damien Gione (countertenor, France), Kler Gratton (baroque violoncello, France) and Kevin Manan (harpsichord, France). The programme features works by Scarlatti, Vivaldi and Porpora. 22 The Music of Johann Sebastian Bach. Iryna Kharchenko (organ). 27 Olha Basystuk (soprano), Viacheslav Basov (flute) and Hanna Bubnova (organ). The programme features works by Caccini, Bach, Gluck, Mozart, Schubert, Grieg and Vierne. 29 Chamber Orchestra “Ravisan”. The programme features works by Benda, Dvořák, Koželuh, Khachaturian and Bozza. 30 Maria Lypynska (mezzo-soprano), Tamara Roy (flute), Tetiana Trypolska (piano) and Iryna Kharchenko (organ). The programme features works by Caccini, Bach, Pergolesi, Verstovsky, Bulakhov, Keil, Listov, Poigin, Petrov and Stepanenko. 15 Cinemas Stadion, tel. 206 13 20, www.kino-butterfly.com.ua. Tickets 10-55Hr. Butterfly Ultramarin E-5, Uryts’koho 1A, MVokzal’na, tel. 206 03 50, www.kino-butterfly.com.ua.QTickets 20-45Hr. Kinopalats C-4, Instytuts’ka 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 72 23, w w w.kinopalace.net. Kinopanorama C-4, Shota Rustaveli 19, MPatals Sportu, tel. 287 30 41, www.kinopanorama.com.ua. Kyiv A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 19, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 234 73 81, www.kievkino.com.ua. Q Tickets 10-35Hr. Kyivs’ka Rus E-2, Artema 93, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 486 74 74, www.kievrus.com.ua. Ukraine’s biggest screen, and one of Europe’s largest, at 26m x 11m. Also a café, bar and billiards. Q Tickets 10-35Hr. Odesa E-3, Peremohy prosp. 3, MUniversytet, tel. 496 15 11, www.kinoodessa.com. Q Tickets 10-36Hr. Ukraina C-4, Horodets’koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. 279 63 01, www.kino-ukraina.com.ua. The swankiest and ,therefore, most expensive cinema in town – that goes for the popcorn, too. However, the first two showings cost a meager 10Hr. Q Tickets 10-46Hr. Zhovten D-1, Kostiantynivs’ka 26, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 89 09, www.zhovten-kino.kiev.ua. Special women’s and kid’s clubs with reduced prices meet on weekends. Tickets 10-28Hr, sofa for two spectators 60Hr. Butterfly Deluxe Gorkoho 50, MRespublikans’kyi Opera & Ballet Art galleries Akvarel C-4, Kostyol’na 6, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 14 38. QOpen 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Atelier Karas D-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 22A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 238 65 31. A one stop shop for 19th Century architecture and contemporary Ukrainian art on Kyiv’s most famous street. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Taras Shevchenko National Opera of Ukraine B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 50, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 234 71 65/279 11 69, www.opera.com.ua. Home of the country’s most famous opera and ballet company. This is a must visit venue for all travellers. Performances are always outstanding and the humble ticket prices (15-80Hr) make this the city’s best value in entertainment. All performances start at 19:00. December 2 Jubellie concert of the National Symphonic Orchestra of Ukraine 4 G.Verdi Aida Opera, in Italian 5 W.A.Mozart Le nozze di Figaro Ballet 6 M.Chembergi Daniella Ballet 6 P Tchaikovskiy Eugene Onegin Opera . 7 A.Glazunov Raimonda Ballet 9 G.BizetCarmen-Suite Ballet R.Shchedrin 9 M.Ravel Bolero Ballet 10 G.Verdi Masked Ball Opera, in Italian 11 A.Adan Giselle Ballet 12 S.HulakA Zaporozhian Opera Artemovskiy Cossack Beyond the Danube 13 H.Lovenskjold La Sylphide Ballet 14 A.Borodin Prince Igor Opera 16 P Tchaikovskiy Swan Lake . Ballet 17 V.Bellini Norma Opera, in Italian 18 G.BizetCarmen-Suite Ballet R.Shchedrin 18 M.RymskiySheherazade Ballet Korsakov 20 G.Bizet Carmen Opera, in French 21 Gala-Concert Vivat Puccini! 23 J.Strauß Vienna Valce Ballet 24 H.Maiboroda Yaroslav the Wise Opera 25 S.Prokofiev Romeo et Juliette Ballet 26 Jubilee Strauß Concert 27 Jubilee Strauß Concert 28 E.Stankovych Christmas Eve Ballet 30 P Tchaikovskiy The Nutcracker Ballet . 31 P Tchaikovskiy The Nutcracker Ballet . Collection F-4, Pankivs'ka 8, MUniversytet, tel. 287 37 66, www.collectiongallery.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Da Vinchi Chervonoarmiys’ka 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. 499 13 76. Modern art from Ukraine and abroad. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30. Honchary C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 10A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 40 93. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Gallery 36 C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 36, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 278 29 85, www.gallery36.org.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Theatres Café-Theatre Koleso D-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 8, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 05 27/425 04 22, www. koleso.teatr.kiev.ua. The audience is invited to participate in humorous, folklore-based programmes staged in this café setting. Q Tickets 20-50Hr. Drama and Comedy Theatre on the Left Bank L-3, Brovars’kyi prosp. 25, MLivoberezhna, tel. 517 89 80. Kyiv’s top experimental theatre specializing in the works of dramatic and comedic Ukrainian and foreign playwrights. QTickets 15-30Hr. Ivan Franko National Academic Drama Theatre C5, I.Franka pl. 3, MKhreschatyk, tel. 279 59 21, www. franko-theatre.kiev.ua. The theatre was built in 1898, and its troop, named after the famous Ukrainian writer Ivan Franko, has been performing since 1926. The repertoire consists of classical, dramatic and musical performances. Performances are in Ukrainian. Kyiv Academy Doll Theatre C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho, 1A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 04 99, www.academ puppet.kiev.ua. This theatre replaced an old movie house near European Sq. The repertoire includes a wide variety of children’s shows and ticket prices are very reasonable. Kyiv Theatre of Operetta G-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 53/3, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 287 62 57/287 26 30, www.kiev-operetta.kiev.ua. Q Tickets 5-30Hr. Lesya Ukrainka Russian Drama Theatre B-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 5, MTeatral’na, tel. 234 42 23, www.rusdram.com.ua. This tradition-rich Russian venue was established in 1926 and is often referred to as the ’theatre of the human soul’. Performances are in Russian language. Puppet-on-Strings Theatre D-3, Sahaydachnoho 29/3, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. 425 58 58, www.marionet.com.ua. Traditional tales of local and international origin are given new interpretations in these puppet productions. Gallery RA A-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 32 (in the yard), MZoloti Vorota, tel. 235 36 19. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Grifon C-4, Kostyol’na 6, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. Maysternya B-2, Artema 1-5, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 272 05 47. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Mystets A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 12, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 234 40 06. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Mystetskiy Kurin' Pyrohova 10G, MUniversytet, tel. 233 58 75. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Soviart C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 22A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 22 19. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Tryptykh C-2, Andriivs'kyi uzviz 34, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 279 07 59, fax 279 83 85, www.triptychgallery.org. Contemporary decorative art. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. 270 70 84. Paintings, sculptures, mini tapestries and more. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Ya Gallery G-1, Volos’ka 55/57, MTarasa Shevchenka, tel. 537 33 51, www.yagallery.com.ua. Ukrainian contemporary art. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Gapchinska G-1, Myhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, 278 44 49, www.gapart.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. www.inyourpocket.com Kyiv In Your Pocket www.inyourpocket.com December 2008 - January 2009 16 CuLture & eVents Where to get tickets Tickets to most major events are available from: Olvia A-5, Metrograd mall (from Rohnidyns’ka str.), MPalats Sportu, tel. 501 25 20/501 25 28, www. olvia.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Parter A-5, Horodetskoho 8 (Red Double Bus), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 287 87 87, www. parter.ua. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. 21 For the 75th Anniversary of the Great Famine (Holodomor) 1932-1933 in Ukraine. Academic Symphonic Orchestra of the National Philharmonic of Ukraine. National Academic Chapel of Ukraine “Dumka”. The programme features works by Stankovych and the verses of Dmytro Pavlychko. Authors’ Evening. For the 70th Birthday of the People’s Artist of Ukraine Volodymyr Huba. Duet of soloists from the National Philharmonic of Ukraine: Herman Safonov (violin) and Olena Strogan (piano). The programme features works by Dvořák, Ives, Fauré and Shymanosky. National Academic Symphonic Orchestra of Ukraine. The programme features works by Weber and Hindemith. Kyiv Chamber Orchestra. The programme features works by Haydn. Serenade concert for piano with orchestr: “Farewell” Symphony. With the support of the Foundation for the Promotion of Arts Development. Mayuko Kamio (violine, Japan). Vadym Gladkov (piano, Ukraine). The programme features works by Franck, Tchaikovsky and Shymanovsky. National Academic Brass Orchestra of Ukraine. Conductor - Oleksiy Roschak. Soloist Artem Pogorelov (piano). The programme features works by Gershwin. 09.12 Piano Kolo 19:00 Ukrainian House This is the second installment in the JazzKolo series. Each concert spotlights a different musical instrument. This show will feature the best Ukrainian jazz pianists including Iuriy Shepeta, Pavlo Sh epeta, Radion I vanov, Sergiy Davydov and others. QTickets 50Hr. 18.12 Song of the Year 2008 19:00 Ukraine Palace The year in music and entertainment culminates in this annual celebration of the year’s top songs. Only the brightest artists are invited to perform their hits in a Ukrainian-style battle of the bands. QTickets 120-2000Hr. 20-21.12 Pop hit of the year 19:00 Ukraine Palace The top Ukrainian stars will be performing the year’s best pop songs at this annual two-day hit parade. QTickets 50-350Hr. 22.12 Emma Shapplin 19.00 Ukraine Palace It’s difficult to gauge what’s more seductive: Shapplin’s sensual soprano voice or her voluptuous moves. The elegant Parisian blends classical opera with modern pop to create a hypnotic sound. QTickets 80 - 2000Hr. CuLture & eVents 18.01 Pikkardiys’ka Terciya 19:00 October Palace One of the liveliest a cappella acts ou t there, Terci ya’s mastery in creating a full sound using only the human voice is impressive. This year, th ey prou dl y introduce their new programme “Etude”. QTickets 50-650Hr. 17 22 23 24 National Philharmonic D-4, Volodymyrs’kyi uzviz 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 16 97, www.filarmonia.com.ua. A unique and moving place to unwind to classical music. Artists perform close to the audience allowing for an intimate musical experience. The atmosphere is intriguing and the acoustics are surprisingly good for a box. December 3 Stars of the Future. National Academic Symphonic Orchestra of Ukraine. Soloists - Anna Savkina (violin, Russia), Bernar Pfaffelmaier (clarinet, Austria) and Kristof Zimper (clarinet, Austria). The programme features works by F. Mendelsohn-Bartholdy. 5 Musical Culture of Europe. Finland. Academic Symphonic Orchestra of the National Philharmonic of Ukraine. Conductor - Richard Buks (Latvia). String quartet of soloists “Post Scriptum”. The programme features works by J. Sibelius. 6 Concert of Chamber Music “Forgotten pages”. M.V. Lysenko String Quartette. The programme features works by Metner, Arensky and Khandoshkin. 8 Alla Kaschenko (piano). The programme features works by Bach, Ravel, Debussy and Chopin. 9 For the 100th Anniversary of David Oistrakh’s Birth. Olha Rivnyak (violin) and Pavlo Kachnov (piano). The programme features works by Brahms, Saint-Saëns and Prokofiev. 10 National Academic Symphonic Orchestra of Ukraine. Conductor - Virko Baley (USA). Soloist - Luana de Vol (mezzo-soprano, USA). The programme features Grossmann’s Valdrada, Baley’s Klytemnestra and Brukner’s Symphony # 9. 11-14 International Festival of Guitar Music “Kyiv - 2008” 11 Frederick Zigan (Italy) 12 Tony Catoly (Spain) 13 16:00 Juriy Aleshnikov (Russia) 19:00 Ernesto Tomayo (USA) 14 12:00 Music Salon 16:00 Students’ Concert 19:00 The final concert of the festival. Academic Symphonic Orchestra of the National Philharmonic of Ukraine. Conductor - Igor Palkin. Soloists - Frederick Zigan (Italy), Tony Catoly (Spain), Ernesto Tomayo (USA) and Andriy Ostapenko (Ukraine). 15 An Evening of Composer Gennadiy Liashenko. 16 An Evening of Writer Eugene Sverstuk. 17 Concert Series: “Riddles of Ancient Folio” and “Ring of Monuscriptes”. State Chamber Orchestra Kyiv Soloists. The programme features works by Bach, Mar, Tartini and Albioni. 18 With the support of the Foundation for the Promotion of Arts Development. The programme features works by Shubert, Liszt, Shuman and Rachmaninoff. 19 A Jubilee Evening for Composer Hanna Havrylets. 20 Valentyna Matushenko (soprano), Zoya Volodars’ka (piano) and Borys Matviychuk (flute). The programme features works by Shuman, Shubert, Debussy, Auber, Händel, Vivaldi and Dupark. 25 27 Concert halls FreeDom Frunze 134, MPetrivka, tel. 468 40 68. Q AKLOP National Musical Academy C-4, Horodets’koho 13/11, MKhreschatyk, tel. 279 12 42/279 07 92. 30 Palace of Sport Sportyvna pl. 1, MPalats Sportu, tel. 246 74 06. Various rock and pop acts, both Slavic and international, play this venue. tel. 253 80 72. Officers House D-6, Hrushevs’koho 30/1, MArsenal’na, The center of Culture and Arts of NAU prosp. Komarova 1, concert hall of National Aviation University, MShuliavs’ka. What’s on 5.12 Gala-Show “Remember the 80’s” 19:00 Palace of Sport B on ey M es tablish e d a cult following among pop hungry Ukrainians back in the perestroika days. This year’s concer t is sure to tap into the nostalgia and features original member Liz Mitchell. Eighties Euro-pop sensations Ricchi and Poveri, Samanta Fox and Eruption are also on the docket. Q Tickets 100-500Hr. 5-6.12 Iuriy Kuklachov Moscow Cat Theatre 19:00 Officers House Talented cats are hard to come by these days. Thank God for The Moscow Cat Theatre and their “Boris the Cat Olympics”. Watch these little feline stars pole vault, skate and ride horses. This is a great show for kids of all ages. QTickets 60-200Hr 7.12 WHITESNAKE 19:00 Palace of Sport The International Centre of Culture and Art ’October Palace’ C-4, Instytuts’ka 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 15 82. Ukraine Palace G-6, Chervonoarmiys’ka 103, MPalats www.inyourpocket.com Z Novym Rokom! Christmas celebrations were officially banned during the Soviet era - much to the Grinch’s delight. Consequently, New Year’s Eve quickly became the merriest of all winter holidays. However, contemporary Ukrainians are doing their best to make up for lost Christmases by celebrating twice: once on December 25 and officially on January 7 (the date designated by the Ukrainian Orthodox calendar). The good old habit of partying on New Year’s Eve is still alive and well, and if you happen to be in Kyiv expect plenty of decorated trees, massive firework displays and enough vodka to send Did Moroz (Grandfather Frost, a.k.a Santa Clause) to an early grave. Locals usually spend New Year’s Eve with family and friends eating massive portions of scrumptious festive dishes, exchanging presents and partying ‘till the sun comes up. Television channels broadcast popular Soviet films and President Yuschenko will have a lot of explaining to do in this year’s must see televised New Year’s speech. Ukraina, tel. 247 24 76. A Slavic star is simply not a star if he or she hasn’t performed here. This is also the venue of choice for many international acts, which means you haven’t lived in Kyiv if you haven’t seen a show here. Thousands are expected to join the outdoor party on Maidan Nezalezhnosti, and many restaurants and clubs are booked months in advance. According to local tradition, if you make a wish when the clock strikes twelve and then drink the champagne in your glass to the final drop, your wish will come true. Christmas in Ukraine is officially celebrated on Januar y 7, as in most other Orthodox Christian countries. Festivities begin on Christmas Eve (Sviaty Vechir) with Holy Supper (Sviata Vecheria). Family and friends come together to feast on an eye-popping assortment of no less than 12 different dishes including the mandatory Kutia, a ritual dish prepared from wheat and a special syrup containing diluted honey, grated poppy seeds, raisins and walnuts. The Kyiv In Your Pocket team would like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Dust off your white sneakers, tight black jeans and perm-job kit: Whitesnake is coming to the capital! The legendary English rock band makes a stop on its world tour in Kyiv. Many names have changed, but David Coverdale continues to lead these glam rockers as they charge ‘round the globe. QTickets 150-300Hr Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 18 Where to stay As with all emerging Eastern European countries, the quality and service on offer in Ukraine’s hotels and apartments can vary to the greatest degree, and Kyiv is only now beginning to showcase its traditions of fine service. Although there is still a shortage of upscale accommodation in the city centre, many smaller and less prestigious hotels and apartments are beginning to appear. Private companies offering newly renovated apartments can meet the needs of almost any clientele, and renting an apartment on a nightly basis is a sensible alternative to a hotel. It’s considerably cheaper, and the advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are real. Hotels remain most people’s first choice however, and new places are being constructed all over the city. Like Kyiv In Your Pocket, the city is growing… Prices include breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. Where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi internet access 19 Hyatt Regency Kyiv C-3, Tarasova 5A, MMaidan Ne- Cream of the Crop Dnipro C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 254 67 77, fax 254 67 37, reservation@ dniprohotel.kiev.ua, www.dniprohotel.kiev.ua. One of the best four star hotels in Ukraine. This 12-storey hotel was built in 1964 in the centre of the business, political and cultural heart of the city. The majority of the rooms are recently renovated; some of the rooms have a spectacular view of the Dnipro river. All rooms have AC, Internet, satellite TV and individually controlled central heating. Q186 rooms (88 singles €105 - 190, 52 doubles €158 - 257, 18 junior suites €170 - 287, 17 Senior suites €220 - 327, 11 Executive suites €260 - 367, extra bed €23 - 46). POHARFL GKDCW hhhh zalezhnosti, tel. 581 12 34, fax 581 12 35, www.kyiv. regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency Kyiv is centrally located in the historical centre on Sofiivs’ka Square. The hotel is the ideal address for business and leisure travellers alike. With high-tech communications and ergonomic working areas, 234 spacious deluxe rooms and 25 suites provide the perfect setting for the discerning global business traveller. Luxurious bathrooms with underfloor heating, deep-soaking baths and exceptional rain showers create a unique in-room experience. State-of-the-art meeting and banquet facilities with 1,000 square meters of function space accommodate all needs, from small meetings to large-scale events. Luxurious Spa Natural with its advanced treatments to rejuvenate body and soul, a sophisticated gym with the latest equipment, a 25-meter swimming pool, unique restaurants and bars and the exclusive Regency Club® make Hyatt Regency Kyiv a true paradise in the world of hospitality. Q 25 suites, 234 rooms, 57 club rooms). PTJHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 20 Where to stay Natsional’nyi C-6, Lyps’ka 5, MArsenal’na, tel. 255 88 88, fax 255 89 97, hotel@natsionalny.kiev.ua, www. natsionalny.kiev.ua. An exorbitantly-priced hotel situated in the prestigious Pechersk neighbourhood. It has hosted Helmut Kohl, Jacques Chirac and a number of other world leaders. The hotel was recently fully renovated to satisfy the modern traveller’s demand for contemporary interiors and conveniences. Friendly staff will book tickets for shows and theatre, and deliver room service at all hours of day or night. Q75 rooms (40 singles 1680Hr, 12 suites 2490Hr, 20 junior suites 1990Hr, 3 apartments 3480Hr, extra bed 205Hr). PHARLK hhhh perks like buffet breakfast and daily newspapers. The hotel is well geared-up for events, with its state-of-theart conference facilities available for meetings or banquets. Q255 rooms (139 standard €440, 94 business €490, 16 junior suite €550, 5 executive suite €650, 1 presidential suite €1200, extra bed €48). Breakfast is not included in the price of a standard room. PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhh Where to stay 21 Riviera on Podol D-3, Sahaidachnoho 15, MPoshtova Opera A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53/53, MUniversytet, tel./fax 581 70 70, info@opera-hotel.com.ua, www. opera-hotel.com.ua. The Opera Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel which offers something unique for its guests. Staying in the Opera Hotel, you will not only enjoy the exquisite interior design, feast on fabulous food and enjoy a glass of exquisite wine near a fireplace, but you will also feel right at home, although home may be oceans away. The Opera Hotel is located just 15 minutes from downtown Kyiv and Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in touch with Kyiv’s business and social life, but away from the busy downtown area. Business club, lobby lounge, conference rooms and spa & fitness club are all a part of the luxury facilities offered to guests. Q138 rooms (singles €430 - 520, doubles €450 - 540, suites €850 - 870, king, business club). POARU� FLGKD hhhhh ploscha, tel. 581 28 28, fax 581 28 68, info@rivierahotel. com.ua, www.rivierahotel.com.ua. Riviera hotel is located in the historical part of Kyiv - in Podil. Such a suitable location makes it easy to reach main business and sightseeing areas of the city such as Andriivs’kyi uzviz, Mykhailivs’ka and Sofiivs’ka Squares and Khreschatyk street. Through the windows of your room you can enjoy the view of the Dnipro River and historical Podil. Each room includes controlled air conditioning. Home-like cosiness, high-quality service and an individual approach to each guest makes Riviera Hotel attractive to business travellers and tourists alike. Q80 rooms (64 standard 2086 - 2528Hr, 8 junior suite 2924Hr, 7 suite 3782 - 5498Hr, 1 for disabled, extra bed 380Hr). PHARUFGKD hhhh Vozdvyzhens’kyi boutique hotel C-2, Vozdvyzhens’ka Podol Plaza D-1, Kostiantynivs’ka 7A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 503 92 93, fax 503 92 20, reservation@ podolplazahotel.com.ua, www.podolplazahotel.com. ua. This four-star boutique hotel creates a distinctive charm of elegance and antique style in the historical centre of Kyiv. Located just a few steps from the city’s best museums and most spectacular Orthodox cathedrals, it has all the advantages of a larger establishment, yet exudes the warmth, intimacy and attention to detail that only a privately-owned hotel can. The hotel’s Gallery Restaurant combines traditional cuisine with new flavours and is equally appropriate for both business lunches and dinners. The bar is a perfect place to numb your senses after a hectic day. Q57 rooms (singles 1200 - 1800Hr, doubles 1600 - 1900Hr, suites 2200Hr, apartments 3000 - 4500Hr, junior suite 2200Hr). PHALK hhhh Premier Palace A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./Pushkins’ka 5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. 537 45 00, fax 279 87 72, info@premier-palace.com, www.premier-palace.com. Kyiv’s first five-star hotel lives up to its name and more. Each room has a fully-interactive TV and internet system, along with a telephone and SOS alarm in the bathroom. The fabulous fitness centre with a gorgeous pool is opened to guests from 07:00 to 23:00. Q289 rooms (163 singles €338 - 395, 94 doubles €450, 27 junior suite €541 - 643, 3 suite €696 - 1004, 1 royal suite €2600, 1 presidential sui te €4129). P O H A R U F L G K D C W hhhhh 60, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 531 99 00, fax 462 58 43, reservation@vy.kiev.ua, www.vozdvyzhensky. com. This is one of the most elegant and conceptual places in the capital - an ideal choice for business travel and elite relaxation. The hotel’s unique location, in the heart of a protected architectural monument of ancient Kyiv, adds a special aura. The hotel’s smart façade faces Andriivs’kyi uzviz and the Terrace Restaurant is secluded by the surrounding greens hills that provide a breathtaking panoramic view. The pleasant staff and interior create a pleasant homelike atmosphere. Rooms are decorated in different styles from chic and modern to sophisticated and elegant. The windows open up on a cosy internal courtyard or on the picturesque Andriivs’kyi uzviz. All 24 rooms, including the two deluxe suites and the two exclusive suites, come with Jacuzzi, “Club” and “Boudoir”, air-conditioning, mini bar, satellite TV and Internet access. The conference hall accommodates up to 100. There is a smaller hall for private meetings. Other perks include a summer terrace with a splendid view of the surrounding green hills and Podil, parking, banqueting, rewards program, tailor-made service for every client and a special offer for those just married. Q25 rooms (9 singles 1300 - 1580Hr, 12 doubles 2000Hr, 4 suites 2500 - 3000Hr). PHARLBK hhhh Apartment hotel Senator apartments A-3, Pyrohova 6, MUniversytet, tel. 200 77 55, fax 200 77 33, office@senator-apartments.com.ua, www.senator-apartments. com.ua. This serviced apartment complex occupies a newly renovated historical building in centre. It includes 27 fully furnished luxury flats of 1-4 rooms. All apartments are designed by a well-known international architect and equipped with everything required for a long stay. Modern kitchen, washer/dryer, high-speed Internet access, satellite TV, spa baths and 42‘‘ plasma TVs are available. The comfort of your stay is supported by a multilingual front desk staff, housekeeping services, 24/7 security, doorman and free on-site parking. A new building is now open at Dmytrivs‘ka 62/20. Q Apartments available for rent: 1 room - from $120, 2 rooms from $230, 4 rooms from $460. Long-term and corporate rates are negotiable. PTHARL Radisson SAS B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 492 22 00, fax 492 22 10, reservation.kiev@radissonsas.com, www.kiev.radissonsas.com. Radisson hotels worldwide have a reputation for excellence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson SAS Kyiv offers its guests wireless access to the Internet around the clock, and for the technologically challenged the IT-savvy concierge is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, furnished in three different styles, include plenty of satellite TV channels, in-house movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser press, safe and hairdryer. Business class rooms and suites are more spacious and include a few extra Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 22 Where to stay Impressa D-3, Sahaidachnoho 21, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. 239 29 39, fax 463 79 02, reception@impressa.com. ua, www.impressa.com.ua. We readily agree with Impressa’s claim to be the city’s “best small luxury hotel”, with each of the rooms attentively and delightfully decorated in different soft colours. The fresh fruit and complimentary bathrobe and slippers are especially nice touches, as well as minibar and 36-channel satellite TV. All rooms are €160 on the weekend. Q17 rooms (8 singles €195, 3 doubles €215, 3 suites €255, 3 apartments €290). PARULGK hhhh Kamelot E-2, Mel’nykova 4, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 455 94 67, fax 455 94 68, www.kamelot.in.ua. Located not far from the city centre this small hotel features medieval designed lobby and halls, sauna, swimming pool and Lancelot restaurant. Spacious rooms with king-size beds are decorated in the same classic style. Cable TV, minibars and air-conditioning are included in each room, some have Jacuzzi. Q11 rooms (4 standard 1000Hr, 3 junior suite 1200Hr, 4 suite 1400 - 1600Hr). POARLGKDC hhhh Where to stay 23 Khreschatik C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezal- ezhnosti, tel. 279 73 39/279 71 93, fax 279 85 44, info@khreschatik.kiev.ua, www.khreschatik.kiev.ua. Each room at this cracking place is equipped with telephone, satellite TV, refrigerator and air-conditioning. Given the location, in the heart of the business district, the tranquillity of the place is remarkable. The Khreschatik boasts two conference rooms, a business centre, a currency-exchange desk, guarded parking and WiFi Internet can be accessed in the lobby. Weekend rates are a great value. Q100 rooms (48 singles 540 - 600Hr, 41 doubles 774 - 860Hr, 11 suites 900 - 1070Hr). PHALW hhh Kyiv D-6, M.Hrushevs’koho 26/1, MArsenal’na, tel. Upmarket Adria L-3, Raisy Okipnoi 2, MLivoberezhna, tel. 568 44 57/568 44 77, fax 517 89 33, reservations@eurohotel. com.ua, www.adria.kiev.ua. This hotel occupies the fifth and sixth floors of the Hotel Tourist building. The rooms here are much more comfortable and as a result cost more than the rooms in the rest of the building. Situated close to the International Exhibition Centre it is a 15 minute metro ride from downtown Kyiv. The Adria’s lobby is located to the right of the entrance to the Hotel Tourist. Breakfast not included (14€). Q45 rooms (singles €80, doubles €87, junior suites €143). PHARFLKD hhh 462 51 20, fax 462 51 45, manager@domus-hotel.kiev.ua, www.domus-hotel.kiev.ua. The private management at this medium-sized Podil establishment does a very good job fulfilling their claim to be Kyiv’s only business-class hotel. All of its rooms have special orthopaedic mattresses and allergic-proof bed accessories for the fussy business person. Modern décor and stylishly subtle lighting add to the sophisticated atmosphere, and the big comfy beds don’t hurt either. Breakfast not included. Q31 rooms (singles 990 - 1050Hr, doubles 1290Hr, suites 1490 - 1790Hr, apartments 2790Hr). PHAKW Domus D-1, Yaroslavs’ka 19, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 253 01 55, fax 253 64 32, marketing@htl.kiev.ua, www.hotelkiev.com.ua. This hotel is located in the heart of Kyiv’s political district, and the majority of the guests are members of the Ukrainian Parliament. There are spectacular views of the Mariinsky Palace, Rada building and the park. The Kyiv offers all an MP could need: restaurants, a currency exchange, ATMs, a beauty salon and room service. Prices include breakfast. Q169 rooms (singles 1250Hr, doubles 1550Hr). HAFLGK hhh Lybid E-3, Peremohy pl. 1, MVokzal’na, tel. 236 00 Fortetsya (Fortress) Radians’koi Ukrainy prosp. 21, Dneprovs’kyi G-1, Spas’kyi moorage 2, MKontrak- tova Ploscha, tel. 490 90 55, fax 490 90 56, info@ dneprovskiy.kiev.ua, www.dneprovskiy.kiev.ua. Many a Slavic star has stayed on Kyiv’s largest ‚boatel’ - and if that doesn’t impress you, disco rockers Boney M visited too. Proceed past the pirate and parrot to your room, which is completely renovated if not completely stylish. Suites have a fish tank, stereo, refrigerator and private Jacuzzi. Partake of Ukraine’s favourite pastime: relax in a sauna and then tea from a samovar. Q20 rooms (junior suites 900Hr, suites 1200Hr). PALGKD hhh MNyvky, tel. 463 51 41, fax 463 51 32, info@fortetsya. kiev.ua, www.fortetsya.kiev.ua. The hotel and restaurant are situated in a scenic area. The complex offers impeccable cuisine, great service, and a fascinating interior. The hotel accommodates guests in two-story houses. The houses are built entirely of real wood with a sauna, living room, bedrooms, billiard room, plasma TVs and room service. Q7 rooms (1 single 640Hr, 5 doubles 960Hr, 1 suite 1500Hr). PTHAULGKD hhhh Gintama C-4, Tr’okhsviatytels’ka 9, MMaidan Nezal- 3*–5* HOTELS all over Ukraine luxury APARTMENTS in Kyiv 17/52 Khmelnytskoho str., off.523 Business-centre "Leonardo" 01601, Kyiv, Ukraine Tel./fax: +38 044 206-22-00 E-mail: info@newlogic.ua www.newlogic.ua ezhnosti, tel. 278 50 92/278 53 47, fax 279 49 41, gintama@voliacable.com, www.gintama.com.ua. Each room at the Gintama is equipped with air-conditioning, a fully stocked mini bar, cable television, Internet access and marble-tiled bathrooms - there’s a Jacuzzi in the suites. The hotel is richly decorated with antique furniture and numerous original paintings executed by the world’s leading artists. The splendid restaurant offers a wide selection of Ukrainian, Russian and European cuisine. Q23 rooms (13 singles 896Hr, 8 doubles 1064Hr, 2 suites 1400 - 1512Hr, 1 junior suite 1120Hr). PHALGKD 63/239 76 00, fax 236 63 36, reception@hotellybid. com.ua, w w w.hotellybid.com.ua. Named after the legendary sister of Kyiv’s founders, the Lybid is situated in the business heart of Kyiv. All rooms are bright and have pleasant wooden furniture plus air conditioning, satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer. Guests in singles can stretch out and relax on a king-size bed. There are a lot of restaurants and stores in the area, as well as the circus and Ukraina shopping mall. The central train station and the downtown area are within easy reach by public transport. Breakfast included. Q273 rooms (159 singles 650Hr, 82 doubles 776Hr, 27 suites 1124 - 1332Hr, 3 junior suite 852 - 1030Hr, 1 business suite 1592 - 1852Hr, 1 exclusive suite 1826 - 2112Hr). PTHARULGKW hhh Obolon Marshala Tymoshenka 29, MMins’ka, tel. 411 01 77, fax 414 57 02, info@obolon-hotel.com.ua, www.obolonhotel.com.ua. A small and elegant hotel near the capital’s northern edge, Obolon is part of a modern high-rise building. Stylish wooden chairs and tables have been imported from Indonesia, no less. All the rooms are clean, spacious and come equipped with at least a queen-sized bed, satellite TV, refrigerator and minibar. Enjoy Obolon beer and snacks in a cosy bar downstairs. Q18 rooms (7 singles 800 - 940Hr, 3 suites 1500 - 1650Hr, 8 junior suite 980 - 1020Hr). POARLW hhh Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 24 Where to stay Perlyna Dnipra D-1, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka, moorage 5, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel./fax 492 96 10, info@perlina.kiev.ua, www.perlina.kiev.ua. This hotel on the water offers fashionable rooms equipped with satellite TV, telephone and air-conditioner. The suites feature a Jacuzzi and a mini-bar. A classy restaurant and a conference room equipped with Internet connections make this an apt venue for various events and business meetings. This floating home has got some surprises in store for you: stay here and have the unique experience of... fishing from the window of your hotel room! Or, if you are not much of a fisherman, you may feed the ducks instead. Q33 rooms (14 suites 1900 - 2000Hr, 6 junior suites 1300 - 1400Hr, 13 standards 1000 - 1100Hr). PHALGKD Where to stay Door smarts A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing moments in front of a foreign door. Pull На себе На себя Push Від себе От себя Open Відчинено Открыто Closed Зачинено Закрыто 25 Express A-3, T. Shevchenka bul’v. 38/40, MUniver- President A-6, Hospytal’na 12, MPalats Sportu, tel. 256 3 256, fax 256 3 254, reserv@president-hotel. com.ua, www.president-hotel.com.ua. The President’s surroundings are surprisingly tranquil considering its proximity to centre. The hotel has 338 bedrooms of varying comfort and size (singles, doubles, suites and apartments), a business centre, restaurant, bar, health and beauty complex, underground parking, airport transfers and even a chauffeur. This is a popular venue for all sorts of events, and its conference suite has rooms holding as few as 10 or as many as 450 people. Q340 rooms (100 economy 830 - 980Hr, 227 standard 1070 - 1950Hr, 9 junior suite 1750 - 2550Hr, 3 suite 3000 - 3150Hr, 1 apartment 4300Hr). POHAR� FLGKDCW hhhh sytet, tel. 503 30 45, fax 503 30 47, hotel@railwayukr. com, www.expresskiev.com.ua. Walking distance from the central railway station (hence the name - you can even buy train tickets in the hotel), this 16 floor hotel is situated near Peremohy Square, and its best feature is the superb Panoramic restaurant on the top floor: perfect for breakfast (not actually included in the price of a room, however). There is an internet café, a gym, and a billiard room. The rooms are decent-sized and reasonable value. Breakfast not included. Q143 rooms (singles 510 - 750Hr, doubles 780 - 990Hr, suites 1890Hr, junior suite 1410Hr). HAFLGKDC hhh Kozats’kyi C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 1/3, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 49 25, fax 279 27 09, kozatsky@ukrnet. net, www.kozatskiy.kiev.ua. Kozats’kyi is located in the heart of the Ukrainian capital on Independence Square—the cultural and trade centre of Kyiv. An ideal location for both business and tourism, access to the city’s extended transportation network, proximity to world renowned sites and reasonable prices give this venue a remarkable competitive advantage. Q130 rooms (21 singles 492Hr, 34 doubles 648Hr, 36 standard 686Hr, 29 junior suite 992Hr, 10 suite 1104Hr). extra bed in deluxe room 180Hr. HAK hhh 96 76, fax. 248 96 66, kozatskiy@ukrnet.net, www. kozatskiy.kiev.ua. This small comfortable hotel is located in a quiet district not far from the city centre (7 minutes from the railway station and 15 from Kreschatyk using public transport). Kozatsyi has a welcome home atmosphere, moderate prices, hospitable staff, buffet breakfast for 25Hr and free laundering and ironing. Rooms come standard with TV, refrigerator, telephone, electric kettle and hair dryer. Car rental and taxi service are available at reception. Guests can also take advantage of the hotel’s café/bar, sauna, hairdresser and conference hall. Q66 rooms (43 singles 216 - 381Hr, 40 doubles 396Hr, 10 suites 648Hr, extra bed in suite 162Hr.) HAK Rus A-6, Hospytal’na 4, MPalats Sportu, tel. 256 40 00, fax 289 43 96, reservation@hotelrus.kiev.ua, www.hotelrus.kiev.ua. For football fans who are allergic to crowds, the rooms on the upper floors of the Rus are perfect, offering superb views of Olympic Stadium. The prices, which vary depending on the number of guests in a room, aren’t cheap, and both singles and doubles are a bit small. They are smart and well furnished however, and the hotel boasts no fewer than seven restaurants. There is also a business centre and three conference halls are at your disposal. Prices are cheaper at the weekends, and there are discounts for long stays. Q448 rooms (singles 702 - 858Hr, doubles 806 - 962Hr, suites 1274 - 1352Hr, superior suite 1482 - 1612Hr). PHARLGKW hhh Kozats’kyi Antonova 2/32, corp. 76, tel. 248 96 70/248 Salyut (Salute) I-4, Sichnevoho Povstannia 11B, MArsenal’na, tel. 494 14 20, fax 280 61 30, hotel@ salute.kiev.ua, www.salutehotel.kiev.ua. This circular structure looks as if it’s about to leave its pod above the Dnipro River and spin off into space. Great views of the golden cupolas of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra are afforded from Salyut’s elegant rooms, which contain satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer. All rooms have double beds, so couples and very close friends should have no space problems - which is more than we can say for the building! Q75 rooms (singles 620Hr, doubles 860 - 1060Hr, suites 1540 - 1700Hr). POHALK hhh Mid-range 7 Days vul. Heroiv Kosmosu 4, MSviatoshyn, tel. 407 27 97/407 13 40, fax 407 24 43, www.7dney.com. The 7 Days is situated on the fifth floor of a commercial and entertainment centre (that’s the good news) but quite some distance from the centre of Kyiv (the bad news). A good value for the rooms, and in the same building you’ll find bowling, billiards, a night club and a restaurant (at least you won’t have to worry about finding a taxi at three in the morning). Breakfast not included. Q36 rooms (24 singles 708Hr, 4 doubles 792 - 840Hr, 4 suites 1420Hr, 4 junior suite 972Hr). POTHARUFLKD hhh 46/257 71 54, fax 524 96 51, hotelmir@ukrnet.net, www.hotelmir.kiev.ua. This hotel is situated near Holosiyivskiy Park and a lake. The scenery of the neighbourhood is lovely. Not far from the hotel is the National Exhibition Centre of Ukraine - a venue for many international exhibitions and a central bus station. Mir offers comfortable “business” and “economy” class rooms. Breakfast is not included. The restaurant (Ukrainian and European cuisine) offers hotel guests coffee-breaks, lunches, dinners, banquets, etc. Q300 rooms (86 singles 468Hr, 147 doubles 330 - 546Hr, 16 suites 810Hr, 48 junior suites 528 - 558Hr, 3 apartments 1212 - 1386Hr). PHARFLK hhh Mir Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 70, MLybids’ka, tel. 524 96 Oberig Chervonozorianyi prosp. 25/16, MLybids’ka, tel. 270 44 66/270 44 99, fax 270 44 67, administrator@ oberighotel.kiev.ua, www.oberighotel.kiev.ua. This hotel is situated not far from the railway station and the Zhulyany airport, but it is not so close to either of them that the rumble of train wheels or the racket of a plane flying overhead will disturb your sleep. Clean, bright, individually furnished rooms come with a refrigerator, a TV set, and a telephone. You can Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 26 Where to stay inyourpocket.com choose a room with a shower or a bath. Some rooms have balconies. For businessmen, there is a business centre and conference room. You can enjoy a sauna and billiards in your free time. Breakfast not included. Q58 rooms (37 singles 357 - 393Hr, 12 doubles 561Hr, 3 triples 585Hr, 1 suite 945Hr, 3 junior suite 639 - 750Hr, 2 with fireplace 486Hr, extra bed 120Hr). PHALDC hhh HOTEL & RESTAURANT Where to stay Hotel Restaurants Conference-center Kyiv, Boryspil higway, 18 km (300 m. from Kharkivska sguare), tel. 576-09-60, www.kstan.com.ua 27 Slavutych I-4, Entuziastiv 1, MLivoberezhna, tel. 561 In Your Pocket is more than a print city guide. Besides our wide range of locally produced and indispensable booklets, we also publish guides to more than 50 cities in online format at our awardwinning website, inyourpocket.com. Here you will find a huge batch of web exclusive content, from features on obscure Romanians to how the residents of St. Petersburg propose marriage to each other. You will also find all the content from our city guides, and more besides: there are hundreds of hotel and restaurant reviews online we simply don’t have space for in print. What’s more, when our eager team of writers and researchers updates any information you will find out about it first online: no waiting for the next print guide to come out, just visit inyourpocket.com. You will also find our entire range of city guides available to download, for free, in PDF format, as well as view them directly on screen in Scribd.com’s revolutionary iPaper. In Your Pocket is the only travel publisher in the world offering its entire content in this easy to access way. Odesa: First at inyourpocket.com The full content of Odesa In Your Pocket is now available online, at inyourpocket.com. Get involved If you’ve seen a review in any of our guides that you think is wildly wide of the mark (or indeed spot on) then tell the world: all venues (and indeed, all features) on our website now have a comments module allowing you to share your opinions not just with our writers but with the hundreds of thousands of website users (inyourpocket.com receives more than 200,000 unique visitors every month, who view more than one million pages). There is also our blog, where you can keep up to date with what’s going on behind the scenes, and find out all sorts of Pocket gossip, from what guides we’re planning next to how a new licensee goes about putting a brand new In Your Pocket guide together. We are also now on Facebook, and you can follow us in 140 characters or less at Twitter. Just go to inyourpocket.com and follow the Facebook and Twitter links in order to sign up. 11 11/561 11 12, fax 561 11 70, www.hotel-slavutich. com. If you want to stay on what is sometimes known as “Venetian Kyiv” (in fact the man-made Rusanivs’kyi Island) then head to the Slavutych. The hotel’s façade is not, it has to be said, in great shape, although the views from inside are wonderful. The cheaper rooms are rather austere and more depressing than the brightly-coloured refurbished rooms and suites, eight of which come with air-conditioning. Laundry and dry cleaning are available. In addition there is a beauty shop, newspaper kiosk and souvenir stands. Breakfast is not included (45Hr). Q400 rooms (250 singles 259 - 479Hr, 105 doubles 359 - 479Hr, 6 suites 899Hr, 16 doubles superior 669Hr, 23 junior suites 799Hr). OHAKC hhh Out of town Kozatskiy Stan Boryspil’ske shosse, 18 km, MBoryspilska, tel. 536 94 90, www.kstan.com.ua. This restaurant-hotel complex is situated on the way from Boryspil to Kyiv. It is the best spot in the city for conferences, business meetings, discussions and seminars. There are two restaurants (European and Ukrainian), three bars, guest houses, a playground and a conference hall. Other services include catered coffee-breaks, business lunches, buffets, banquets and guarded parking. Q PTALEGBS Yaroslav D-1, Yaroslavs’ka 10, 1-st floor in the inner Sport G-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 55A, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel./fax 289 76 20, hotel-sport@rambler.ru, www.h-sport.kiev.ua. Feel like an international athlete still seeking élite sponsorship at this high-rise hotel next to Olympic Stadium. A refrigerator, 21-channel cable TV, airconditioning and pleasant décor can be found in every room. A nearby pool and sauna can be reserved, while for other kinds of athletes there’s a sports-themed casino on the 18th floor. Breakfast not included. Q173 rooms (21 singles 540 - 600Hr, 144 doubles 600 - 720Hr, 3 suites 1650Hr, 5 junior suite 1200Hr). OHALK hhh yard, MKontraktova ploscha, tel. 417 31 89, info@ hihostels.com.ua, www.hihostels.com.ua. Yaroslav is located in the lower part of the city called Podil, where one can find lots of shops, cafeterias, grocery stores, train and air ticket offices, beauty salons and Internet-cafés. There are several universities around the hostel. Breakfast not included. English-speaking 24hr reception. Travel/tourist info and Internet access are available. Q 10 beds 120-130Hr. TRLG Landhaus Brovary, Kyivs’ka 316, Terminal Trade Center, Tourist L-3, Raisy Okipnoi 2, MLivoberezhna, tel. 568 40 17, fax 517 82 53, reservation@hotel-tourist.kiev. ua, www.hotel-tourist.kiev.ua. A whole army of tourists could fit into this state-run hotel, which rises up 27 storeys for a wonderful view back across the Dnipro River of KyivoPechers’ka Lavra and the Motherland statue. Tourist has various standards of rooms, some of which have air-conditioning. The suites are spacious and contain two TVs, a hot pot and tea cups, while the entire 10th floor is no-smoking. Breakfast included. Q370 rooms (78 singles 390 - 531Hr, 234 doubles 462 - 657Hr, 7 suites 780 - 1446Hr, 51 junior suite 576Hr). POHAFLKD hhh tel. 200 13 34, fax 200 13 35, info@landhaus.com. ua, www.landhaus.com.ua. This hotel is a good example of harmony of both modern conveniences and service. It provides everything for the demanding client - comfortable German furniture, air-conditioning, personal safe, satellite TV, Internet access and mini-bars. Room charge includes breakfast, fitness-centre services and parking. Guests also have an outstanding possibility to visit the trade and entertainment centre “Terminal”, which features a supermarket, fitness centre and swimming pool, ice rink, conference and concert halls, casino, indoor karting, four cinemas, 24 bowling lanes, laser game hall, billiards and restaurants. Q 39 rooms (28 standard 600 - 750Hr, 6 junior suite 800 - 950Hr, 5 suite 1150Hr). POTHAFLGKDC hhh www.inyourpocket.com Ukraine C-4, Instytuts’ka 4, MKhreschatyk, tel. 278 28 04, fax 279 13 53, www.ukraine-hotel.kiev.ua. The hotel formerly known as Moskva (Muscovite) now provides a much more patriotic, if not so modern, backdrop to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. The lobby is quite old-school, but the rooms have caught up with the times and offer cable TV with movie and Internet service. Attractive décor and furniture await you in higher-priced rooms, while the others lack amenities including air-conditioning. Q229 rooms (130 singles 540 - 610Hr, 80 doubles 650 - 760Hr, 15 suites 990 - 1900Hr, 4 junior sutes 650 - 910Hr). PHARFLGKD hhh Hostels Ky i v A-1, Ar tema 52 A , ko r p u s 2 , 8 t h f l o o r , MLuk’yanivs’ka, info@hihostels.com.ua, www.hihostels.com.ua. Situated in the centre of Kyiv, this hostel can accommodate 60 people. There are two rooms in each block (a twin and a triple). English-speaking reception is available from 9:00 to 21:20. Breakfast not included, but it is possible to grab a bite in the café situated in the same building (20 Hr). Q doubles 150Hr, dorms 135Hr. tels.com.ua, www.hihostels.com.ua. International youth hostel Olympic is located on the left bank of the Dnipro river. Although it is only five minutes walk from Lisova (Лісова) metro station, you might want to avoid a mugging and call a taxi - welcome to one of Kyiv’s hoods. To find the hostel, follow Marshala Zhukova street and then follow the signs. It takes about 20 minutes by metro to reach centre. Advance booking is necessary. Cosy cafeteria (breakfast, dinner - 13-20Hr, lunch - 27Hr), sauna with swimming pool can accommodate 10 people (120Hr per hour, after 24:00 - 105Hr per hour), football pitch and tennis courts. Q 4 doubles 250Hr, 4 junior suite 300Hr, 1 budget, 6 dorms 100Hr. Olympic Marshala Zhukova str., MLisova, info@hihos- Budget Holosiivs’kyi E-4, Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 93, MLybids’ka, tel. 259 76 72/259 76 73, fax 259 76 46, rezerv@ hotelgolos.kiev.ua, www.hotelgolos.kiev.ua. In addition to its many nicely-priced rooms, the beautiful trees and lakes of Holosiivskyi Park are a short walk away. The rooms have been renovated and, in addition to a flower or potted plant, have a phone and TV. Conference facilities - 150Hr per hour. Breakfast not included. Q200 rooms (85 singles 160 - 346Hr, 87 doubles 284 - 560Hr, 2 suites 820Hr, 15 demisuite 662Hr). PHAULGK hh Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 28 Where to stay Where to stay 29 87 87, apartkiev@gmail.com, www.apkiev.com.ua. Comfortable, clean, fully-furnished domestic apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All are equipped with air-conditioning, Jacuzzi, cable or satellite TV, DVD player, high speed Internet and independent hot-water supply. Airport and train station pick-up and accounting receipts are also available. Q 14 apartments (7 singles 300 - 500Hr, 4 doubles 350 - 500Hr, 2 triples 700 - 800Hr, 1 quad 750Hr). PAR Kiev for You tel. +38 067 242 12 24, +38 068 810 on-line payment are all available for your convenience, not to mention the special discount offers and credit cards accepted. Q one-room US$40 - 75, two-room US$65 - 150, threeroom US$80 - 200, four-room US$150 - 250. A Kyiv Hotel Luxe B-4, vul. Prorizna 18/1, office 7, 2nd KIEV FOR YOU apartments in Kiev  rent apartments  transfer  any kind of payment floor, MTeatral’na, tel. 490 73 09/279 28 74/8 066 236 24 70, info@kyivhotelluxe.com, www.kyivhotelluxe.com. Luxurious private apartments in the centre of Kyiv offer something for every taste including a flexible discount system, transfers from the airport/railway station (on request), Internet, telephone, fax, housemaid service, satellite TV, information support, currency exchange and even a cook to rustle you up some appetising Ukrainian cuisine. Q singles €60 - 80, doubles €70 - 140, triples €100 - 150. PTARULGD Kyiv Hotel Service B-5, Liuterans’ka 33, office 4, Apartment Rental Apartments in Kyiv C-4, Baseina 9, office 5, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 229 35 35/+380 67 402 47 97, info@apartment.com.ua, www.apartment.com.ua. Fully equipped luxurious private apartments in the heart of Kyiv with high level service and attractive prices. For daily rent. Check the web-site for photos and full info. Q26 apartments (4 one-room 350 - 500Hr, 12 two-room 350 - 900Hr, 10 threeroom 400 - 800Hr). PAD Grata Apartment Service C-3, Mykhailivs’kyi prov. 9A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 468 07 57, fax 238 26 03, service@aparthotel.kiev.ua, www.accommodation.kiev.ua. A small network of serviced apartments in the very heart of Kyiv. All apartments are modern, well furnished, well-equipped and come with cable TV. Drivers and interpreters are also available. Qsingles US$60, doubles US$75, triples US$120. A tel.: +38 (067) 242 12 24 e-mail: apartkiev@gmail.com +38 (068) 810 87 87 www.apkiev.com.ua Kiev Lodging B-3, Ivana Franka 12, office 3, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 234 77 95, fax +17189897377, inquiry@ kievhotelservice.com, www.kievhotelservice.com. Renovated lodging in the centre of Kyiv. All apartments have satellite TV, automatic washing machines, individual hot water supply and air-conditioning - all you need for self-catering accommodation. Airport and railway stations transfer service, visa support, oral and written translations, city tours and gift delivery are also available. Q 18 apartments (10 singles 180 - 600Hr, 4 doubles 300 - 800Hr, 4 studio 180 - 200Hr). PAR MKhreschatyk, tel. 235 31 30, fax 253 20 68, booking@ kievhotel-service.kiev.ua, www.kiev-hotel-service.com. Get yourself fitted up with a luxurious flat in the city centre. Breakfast - and a hot one at that - is also part of the deal. Q19 apartments (5 one-room 416 - 520Hr, 8 two-room 620 - 700Hr, 4 three-room 850 - 935Hr, 1 four-room 1040Hr, 1 Lux 1040Hr). Olga tel. 237 20 06/233 04 44, olga1001night@yahoo. Home-Hotel tel. 592 46 19, fax 541 15 70, admin@homehotel.com.ua, www.homehotel.com.ua. Home-hotel offers luxury and secure, but relatively inexpensive mainly centrally located apartments. Each apartment comes with a fully-equipped kitchen, TV, phone and sound system - some have a washing machine. Helpful services like airport pick-ups can also be arranged. On-line reservation recommended. Q one-room 150 - 350Hr, two-room 275 - 300Hr, three-room 300 - 400Hr. PA com, www.apartment-kiev.com. Nice apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All the necessities for a comfortable life. Double beds, satellite TV, Internet (broadband 2Mb/sec), bathroom, kitchen, music centre, air-conditioners, washing machine, microwave oven, iron, etc. The location is beautiful - around Maidan and Khreschatyk. Q studio room US$50 - 60, two room US$60 - 80, three room US$70 - 90, semilux US$80 - 100, luxury US$110 - 160. KievRent tel. 204 81 63, www.kievrent.net. The largest (around 500 apartments) on-line database of serviced apartments in Kyiv and other cities of Ukraine. Airport transfer, maid service, on-line same-day reservation and Apartments Rent Kiev B-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 1B, office 11, MKhreschatyk, tel. 259 05 59/561 05 63, info@rentkiev.net, www.rentkiev.net. Lux, Deluxe apartments in the very centre of Kyiv. Fully furnished and equipped with satellite TV, air-conditioners, DVD, video, Jacuzzi, phone, iron, hairdryer etc. Transfer to airport or train station. Interpreter, guide, driver services. Car for rent. Q23 apartments (6 one-room 200 - 500Hr, 9 two-room 250 - 650Hr, 8 three-room 300 - 1000Hr). Daniella Hotel Service C-4, Kostyol’na 10, ap. 12, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. +38067 507 42 98/531 73 87/561 69 00, www.best-kiev-apartments.com. Luxury apartments for daily rent in Kyiv’s centre. Q one-room 280 - 360Hr, two-room 306 - 765Hr, three-room 383 - 1275Hr. nia 9, MArsenal’na, tel. 496 07 62/280 83 18, fax 280 83 18, info@kievapartmentservice.kiev.ua, www. kievapartmentservice.kiev.ua. Kiev Apartment Service offers a selection of beautifully designed apartments where you will find all the facilities and luxury of a 4-star hotel. Every apartment has a contemporary European design, fitted with exquisite furniture and equipped with the usual domestic appliances such as satellite/cable TV, Broadband Internet access, stereo systems, complete kitchens and minibars. A full range of travel support services are available, and includes airport transfer, visa support, sightseeing tours and car services. High quality services and prices 30% lower than in Kyiv hotels are bound to meet all your expectations. Q18 apartments (6 one-room 215 - 430Hr, 7 two-room 530 - 660Hr, 5 three-room 670 - 830Hr). PTARL Kiev Apartment Service I-4, Sichnevoho Povstan- €1 = 7.77Hr; US$1 = 6.17Hr (25 November 2008) Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 30 restaurants In the not so distant past, hungry tourists were limited to a handful of hotel restaurants with appalling service and tasteless food. Thanks to innovative entrepreneurs from Ukraine and the rest of the world, visitors can now choose from a vast range of options of local and international cuisine that rivals many Western European cities. New establishments with new themes open regularly as the quality of food, service, and décor improve as well. The prices at some new, trendy restaurants in the centre are rising accordingly, but an evening dining out at most places will still cost less than you would expect to pay for the same level of service and quality at home. Equally appetising moderately priced and budget options are widely available in all parts of the city. Our guide lists popular eating establishments from American to Ukrainian, so whatever dining atmosphere you find yourself in, the word here is – smachnoho! restaurants www.inyourpocket.com Sam’s Steak House E-3, Zhylians’ka 37, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 287 20 00, info@kartamir.com.ua, www.karta.ua. The great thing about Sam’s is that its personality is unique yet familiar. They definitely have the best bovine selection in Kyiv and perhaps in the whole of Ukraine. The intense action around the open grill will have you rubbernecking in anticipation of your cut of savoury carcass. The portions are brow-raisingly large and the wine selection grand - a fantastic hang-out for sports viewing. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULEGBXSW 31 American Arizona BBQ D-1, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka 25, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 24 38. Kyiv’s first ex-pat hangout has excellent burgers, Mexican food and a 49Hr business lunch. American pool and darts keep the adults happy, while children’s parties are held every Sunday 11:00 - 12:30 and 15:00 - 16:30. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. €€€. PTABSW Soho-New York Steak & Seafood A-1, Artema 82, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 484 03 51, www.soho.com.ua. This American owned and operated New York style steakhouse creates a relaxed and elegant atmosphere that’s fitting for any dinner occasion. The average price per person for this wonderful dining experience is approximately 200-250Hr. As a footnote, the management as well as most of the floor staff speak fluent English, so there’s never a communication problem when ordering your steak ’well done’ QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PAUEBS T.G.I. Friday’s B-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, MKhreschatyk, tel. 234 52 49, www.fridays.com.ua/en/. Famous for decades all over the world and synonymous with great value and good times, this chain restaurant is a real piece of Americana in the heart of Kyiv. Friday’s attracts expats longing for familiar food, which comes in huge portions at reasonable prices and is served by the best staff in the city. Visitors will find the Kyiv menu has more salads and grilled meats than the Stateside version. The wine list is terrific and the cocktails (there are more than 400 of them) will speak for themselves. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAGS Time Out G-5, Gorkoho 50, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 248 73 96. IIf you take a break to come here, your options are endless: big-screen TVs, pool, billiards, snooker and a casino plus live piano music on Friday and Saturday nights. Also a special kid’s menu. Classical European and American breakfast served to 12:00 from Monday through Friday and until 16:00 at Saturday and Sunday for 65Hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €€€. POTAEBS Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 32 restaurants Armenian Ani G-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 590 25 65. This restaurant is situated on the top floor of one of Kyiv’s downtown “skyscrapers”. There is room for big parties and for romantic couples. The olma, cofta, tender leg of lamb baked in tomato sauce, hachapuri, and lavash are delicious and served in style. The open kitchen allows you to observe an experienced chef work his culinary magic, while live music played on unique national instruments will wake amazing emotions in your soul. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALEGBSW restaurants Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet V Home delivery A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled X Smoking section M Nearest station 6 Animal friendly 33 Mimino D-2, Spas’ka 10A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 417 35 45, www.kartamir.com.ua. This Georgian restaurant got its name from the popular Soviet movie Mimino. There are delicious hachapuris, shashliks and true Georgian fish and meat dishes. The Chief masterfully accommodates the ancient Georgian national cuisine to a modern taste. There is also live music. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUILEGBXS 417 52 62/331 34 34. This Georgian restaurant is decked out to resemble an old town in Georgia, and the feeling of being ’somehere else’ is enhanced by the traditional music played by Caucasian highlanders. The art on the walls is also traditional Georgian. The food is authentic too, with helpful waitresses able to guide you around the menu if you are unfamiliar with Georgian cuisine. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €€. PAULEBS native Azerbaijani chef cooks up a riot of excellent dishes, including barbecues prepared on a chargrill. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAE Chinese China White D-1, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 24, MPechers’ka, tel. 594 21 75, www.2k.com.ua. This restaurant is a marvelous maze hidden behind a glass façade. The magnificent wardrobe and bar, and the sensational staircase leading to the seven different dining rooms bestow a sense of exclusive simplicity. The food is good, and you will find a mix of Japanese, Chinese, and European cuisine on the menu. For the full Chinese experience go for the round table: you and 11 of your closest friends will fit around it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGS Old Tbilisi D-1, Frunze 6, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. Belgian Belle Vue A-6, Saksahans’koho 7, MPalats Sportu, tel. 289 87 80, www.belle-vue.com.ua/en/. This ’Belgian beer café’ sports a lovely wooden interior full of mirrors and antiques. Once your table has been cleared of ads and flyers, you’ll have room for your favourite beer plus Belgian and Ukrainian cuisine. The metre-long Belle-Vue sausage is a specialty. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAUEBS W Wi-Fi internet access L Guarded parking Caucasian Kavkazkaya plennitsa C-4, Khreschatyk 12, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 18 52. The interior and food of the venue is typically Caucasian, while the walls are painted with scenes from the popular Soviet comedy ’Caucasian Captive’. Live music is performed here on traditional Armenian instruments every evening. Meat, fish and poultry are baked on a char grill while aromatic hookahs add to the dining experience. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. AILP Mandarin G-1, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka, moorage Shirvan Shah D-3, Ihorivs’ka 5, MPoshtova Ploscha, Le Cosmopolite B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 47, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 278 72 78. Designed in the style of early 20thcentury Belgian brassieres located throughout European capitals, Le Cosmopolite’s art-nouveau décor impresses with lots of wooden panels and a marble bar. Belgian and international food is accompanied by a wide selection of Belgian beers on tap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. €€. ABELP tel. 463 75 72. Shirvan Shah translates as ‚Shah’s Palace’ and its interior is reminiscent of a magnificent pile. This homage to Azerbaijan consists of two huge halls as well as four intimate chill out rooms found on two floors. The rich interior is all hand-made. Guests are welcomed in the traditional Azeri way with water and rose oil to wash their hands. A www.inyourpocket.com Kuvshin (Jug) G-5, Cher vonoarmiis’ka 94/10, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 592 63 63, www.2k. com.ua. Restaurant Kuvshin offers Eastern, Caucasian, and Ukrainian cuisine. The creative service accompanies the delicious taste of their dishes. The design and furniture reminds you of the good old times when the whole family gathered around the dinner table. The cosy family atmosphere at the restaurant comes with traditional Caucasian hospitality. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PTALGBS Price guide The average price for a main course: €€€€ more than €20 per person €€€ €15 - 20 per person €€ €10 - 15 per person € less than €10 per person 6, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 599 08 77, www.mandarin.ua. This floating Asian restaurant boasts 25 Chinese cooks and over 100 items on the menu, including pig’s ears, jellyfish and (relatively) expensive sushi. Most of the dishes are for two or more people, so don’t be selfish and share with your partner. There is a special tearoom, a kid’s room with professional baby-sitter, and even a mooring for your boat, should you bring it. English menu available. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALEGBS Vostok (East) G-1, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka 11, MPoshtova Ploshcha, tel. 537 02 40. The name speaks for itself. Expect Chinese decorations on the walls, and Peking Duck on the menu. Most of the time the food is good if unexceptional, and the waitresses very friendly and charming indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PAUS Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 34 restaurants What’s in a name? Czech U Hromogo Pola (At the lame Paul) I-4, Suvorova 4, MArsenal’na, tel. 280 50 07, www.uhromogopola. com.ua. The first restaurant in Kyiv to serve genuine Czech cuisine. The food is good and large - the various platters are an excellent introduction to Czech cuisine, as long as you like meat. U Hromogo Pola serves quality and robust bucket sized portions on the plate and fresh beer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAES restaurants Teatro A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, MUniversitet, tel. 581 70 70, www.opera-hotel.com. This restaurant adds a level of elegance to the already gorgeously extravagant Opera Hotel. Located on the second floor, enter through the separate street-level entrance. The menu (available in English) is a popular blend of Italian, Ukrainian and other European dishes. This is a top pick for early birds - breakfast service begins at 6:30. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. PALGBS Terrace G-2, Vozdvyzhens’ka 60 A,B, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 536 12 79, www.vozdvyzhensky.com/ index.php?mova=en. The warmth, superb kitchen and panache of this restaurant will engage you from the first minute. Everything about this place screams exclusivity, from the magnificent terraces with stunning views of garden slopes ideal for a romantic supper to the distinctive menu. A small drawing room is available for special events. If you are dining with children, a kids menu is also available. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€€. TALEBS 35 European Bastet B-3, Honchara 15/3, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 272 54 37, www.bastet-kiev.com. The restaurant is situated just a block from St. Sophia’s Cathedral. It offers European cuisine with a mildly Eastern flair. The main hall is spacious and bright with a green orchard (yes, really), and the second hall has a Middle Eastern design with soft, comfy couches. There is live music every day, creating a soothing, pleasant atmosphere. There is also a hookah bar. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAILEGBS The story behind the name “Kyiv” goes back hundreds of years to the mythical foundation of the city. According to legend, the city was founded in the 5th century by three brothers and a sister, the oldest brother being named Prince Kyi. They supposedly sailed down the Dnipro River and established a settlement at the top of four hills on the grounds of what is today known as Schekavytsia and Horyvytsia. One can overlook this area if you go right after ascending Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi Uzviz). You may also visit likenesses of the four siblings in one of two areas, either on the bank of the Dnipro River near Paton bridge, or at the fountain in Maidan Nezalezhnosti. The monument on the Dnipro River has been one of many popular visiting sites for new couples, in keeping with the tradition of laying flowers on monuments and taking pictures on their wedding day. The newer monument in the centre is decidedly less Soviet-looking than the one by the river, the characters even looking a bit Nordic by their costume. The other legend says that St. Andrew came to the hills overlooking the Dnipro River on his way to Rome. According to this legend he blessed this place and predicted a grand future for this up and coming town. Although many stories about these founders and protectors of the city are recent fabrications, as with all legends they may contain some truth. Archaeological finds indicate that what is today known as Kyiv has been inhabited for about 17,000 years, however there is no evidence of an organised, permanent settlement until the foundation of a citadel on the steep Right Bank approximately at the same area where the legend places the mythical foundations of the city. This fortification was built to defend against marauding Slavs and invading peoples from Asia, and certainly would have required the administration of a warrior-leader. The Kyiv Rus state was established by descendents of a Viking-like people called Varengians, who migrated from Scandinavia mainly by ship. They served in administrative and mercenary capacities throughout far-Eastern Europe, and composed much of the warrior and ruling classes. French Annabelle Chervonoarmiys’ka 57/3, MRespublicans’kyi Stadion, tel. 287 73 34/287 43 25. The first genuine French gastronomic experience of a restaurant in Ukraine (and Eastern Europe for that matter) has opened its doors. Jacques Depeyre, a French chef and the proud recipient of a Michelin Star, has a real gift for creating outstanding French cuisine, and the many delights on his menu include duck liver, frogs legs, game and black truffles. The interior is decorated to match the food, and apes many a classic French restaurant. The main hall carries the spirit of the Parisian élite, while the library hall (strictly for VIPs) is perfect for business meetings. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. PAUILBS Belvedere I-4, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1 (Slav y pl.), MArsenal’na, tel. 288 50 70, www.belvedere.kiev.ua. The only restaurant in Kyiv offering perfect views of the city, entirely, therefore, justifying its name. You can see the Dnipro River, Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra, Podil and the whole of the left bank with its modern buildings. The restaurant’s interior and patio have been built in steps so that nobody misses out on the view. Such attention to detail is found in the food too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAULGBS Castle Vydubychi J-4, Naberezhno-Pechers’ka 5, MDnipro, tel. 578 10 10/286 27 07, www.zamok.kiev. ua. Not only can you find a wide range of fish and seafood on the menu here, you can even catch the fish yourself and have the chef cook it just as you like, or just throw it on the char-grill. Don’t forget to try the Tsar’s fish soup, (a wonder of full flavour), catfish shashlyk and the unique Minstrel’s Ballade. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALE ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 230 95 73. The interior of this restaurant will win you over, especially if you dig jazz and/or admire the creativity of Picasso. The ceiling is painted with a reproduction of Picasso’s “Sleeping Peasants” (the largest in Europe). Live jazz piano and jazz concerts complement the scrumptious European and chef’s original cuisine that will have you licking your chops for weeks. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Atelier A-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 17/52, Business Picasso B-5, Baseina 4, Mandarin Plaza, 5th floor, centre „Leonardo“, 1st floor, MTeatral’na, tel. 581 10 81, www.atelier.com.ua. This restaurant represents the famous chef Denise Komarenko’s cuisine. The dishes can be described as works of art with tastes and smells reminiscent of sophisticated music. The restaurant has a wide selection of wines. The interior is designed in a warm minimalist style. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTALG Dixieland Kyrylo-Mefodiivs’ka 14/2, MPolitekhnichnyi Instytut, tel. 236 82 28, www.dixie.kiev.ua. This is not some bastion of American Confederate values, but rather a relaxing jazz restaurant serving French cuisine. The orchestra plays your favourite songs on request, and the food and wine selections don’t disappoint - except in price. Also, note the location is a bit out-of-the-way. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAUILEBS Safe A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 23, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 536 01 57, www.safe.com.ua. Ask ten Kyiv models what their favourite club in the city is, and the chances are that they will all say Safe. And if there’s one thing Kyiv’s models know, it’s where to hang out. The popularity of this loungebar shows no sign of dwindling, as people continue to come here in order to relax and chat in comfortable surroundings whilst listening to chilled-out mixes. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. PAW Double Bass F-1, Kostyantynivs’ka 34, MKontraktova Shnitzel Gusovskoho 12/7, tel. 280 41 14, info@ kartamir.com.ua, www.karta.ua. When I mentioned this place to a German acquaintance, a small tear welled up in the corner of his eye. “I miss my Mutter’s schnitzel,” he explained. I took this to be a wonderful compliment and went to try for myself. This is a no-brainer for pork/beer lovers - schnitzel, bratwurst, schweinshaxe (pork knuckles in a crusty skin), lagers and ales. Though this may or may not be the best place for homesick German boys, it’s definitely a top pick for the rest of us. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAULGXS Ploscha, tel. 467 60 18. The interiors of three small halls are decorated with various musical instruments, old musical scores, and records. They are on the walls, on the ceiling, and even on the doors of the lavatories (violin for girls, saxophone for boys). Even the sofa in one of the halls imitates the keys of a piano. The chef will happily prepare any delicacy especially for you, and not limited to French, which dominates here. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. ABEPST Fellini C-4, Horodets’koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. 279 54 62. A wonderful location for people-watching, as the two terraces overlook the fashionable Ukraina cinema just off Khreschatyk. Fellini offers delicious French and Italian food, including frog legs and goose liver for those who likes such delicacies. The food and drinks are rather expensive, and service can be slow. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €€€. ALB Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 36 restaurants L’Amour D-1, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka 17/18, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 467 78 97, info@kartamir. com.ua, www.karta.ua. The waitresses at L’amour dress like 19th Century French maidens, which kind of clashed with what we were hoping would be an elegant experience. However, one taste of the chef’s special leg of lamb and the cheesy ambiance melted into the wall. One feature that really stood out, and can be applied to all the restaurants belonging to Mirovaya Karta, is that they have extensive experience when it comes to serving Westerners. Expect high-standards and minimal confusion. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PAULGBXS restaurants Decadence House A-5, Shota Rustaveli 16, MPalats Sportu, tel. 206 49 20, www.carteblanche.com.ua. A home away from home for the city’s society set, Decadence House recreates the extravagant and grand atmosphere of the eighteenth century. The venue regularly holds ultraglamourous parties while a vast array of top class drinks, hookah pipes and chilled out beats can be enjoyed on lavish leather chairs. A refined, ultra stylish experience. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PTAIGBXS 37 Caravella L-4, Dniprovs’ka naberezhna, MLivoberezh- na, tel. 553 68 92. Riverside dining on this double-decker boat of a restaurant. There is a wide range of seafood in the first floor ’Mess Hall’, while European cuisine reigns in the more expensive ’Admiral’s Hall’, where there is also room on the menu for game, including wild boar, elk and bear. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. AL plus different meat and seafood dishes in interesting sauces. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALBW Vagon-Restaurant G-5, Cher vonoarmiys’ka 52, Grill Asia C-3, A.Tarasovoyi 5, Hyatt Regency Kyiv, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 581 12 34, www.kyiv. regency.hyatt.com. Grill Asia offers a bold and vibrant setting to experience the ultimate in fine dining. The restaurant features a very elegant and sleek interior design with a warm and comfortable feel. Grill Asia showcases two ‚open kitchens’ with a wood-burning oven and a charcoal grill for the European dishes along with the authentic Asian wok stations and a steamer to prepare exquisite meals by original Asian recipes. The unique atmosphere, finest cuisine and impeccable service will provide a truly unforgettable experience. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PTAULS Marocana Fashion Café H-5, Lesi Ukrainki bul’v., Le Grand Café C-5, Muzeinyi prov. 4, MMaidan Ne- zalezhnosti, tel. 278 72 08. The sophisticated, refined interior will shame anyone thinking that jeans and a t-shirt will do. The prices are high and the portions are not exactly what you would call big, but the entire menu of French cuisine is excellent. A great place to have a romantic dinner or to impress your friends. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PAUILEBS Marche A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 13, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 451 40 50, www.2k.com.ua. The cuisine and décor of this classy restaurant reflect different, exotic French colonies. The Algerian hall hosts romantic candlelit meals to the sounds of gentle murmur of a waterfall. Another room has the aromatic scent of eastern colonies. The third and most elegant hall embodies France in the Middle Ages. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €€€. AP 24, MPechers’ka, tel. 254 49 99/206 01 56, www. carteblanche.com.ua. This restaurant’s unique cuisine has been created by blending the best culinary achievements of its chef, the warm spirit of Morocco, Eastern creativity and European quality. The interior has a modern, fusion-like intrigue, and makes great use of the space. The relaxing atmosphere that smothers the place late in the afternoons gives way to a stylish fashion-party feel in the evening. Alongside the excellent conventional menu there is sushi, a range of vegetarian dishes, a cigar menu, a hookah menu, a top wine list and it’s even open for breakfast. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGBS MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 287 04 90. Different styles of train carriages make up one of the most fantastic restaurant interiors in the city. Seating areas include English, Western and Eastern Orient compartments, in addition to a French boulevard and a waiting hall where you can pour yourself beer from taps on the table. The cuisine is Euro fusion. QOpen 11:00 - 02:30. €€€. ALPST Velur F-4, L’va Tolstoho 43, MUniversytet, tel. 289 34 Korona Club A-5, Rohnidyns’ka 4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 289 02 16. Korona Club features a restaurant, a bar, and a casino. Metal, wood, plush sofas, aquarium portholes teaming with bright fish, and the improvised pirate sporting a fool’s crown create a surreal atmosphere. The closed summer terrace would be a lovely place for visitors, if only it was not so stuffy. There is a large number of serving staff, but they are not always attentive. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €€€. PABS 32/284 34 20, www.nasha-karta.com. This luxury restaurant compensates for its high prices with excellent service and creative cuisine. The rich and stylish interior enhances the cozy atmosphere, while the Franco-Italian food offers treats such as a soup made according to Catherine Deneuve’s own recipe, an Indian soup from Goa, and the Chef’s speciality: fruit rolls. The little bell at every table is for calling the waiter over whenever you need assistance. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PALEBW Italian Amici Mi F-3, O.Honchara 67, MUniversitet, tel. 501 16 90. For those who missed Amici Mi’s last advertisement, it looked like a scene from a Cinemax After Dark feature - two voluptuous young women sitting on a plush sofa, embracing and gazing longingly into each others eyes. The current ad shows Hugh Hefner’s older brother awkwardly caressing the Ukrainian girl next door. If these images don’t wet your pallet and get you in the mood for some Italian food, check your pulse. To be fair to the ad campaign, the restaurant is ideal for a romantic evening and the dishes are superb. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PALGBS Indian Buddha-bar C-4, Kreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 270 76 76, info@buddhabar.com.ua, www. buddhabar.com.ua. Buddha Bar is a heavy hitter all over Europe and is now enjoying similar success in Ukraine’s capital. It’s safe to say that this is the trendiest establishment in Kyiv. The recipe for their popularity is simple, high quality in a flashy package. For a one-stop-all-inclusive-evening this ranks high on the list of possibilities. Enjoy hard to find Indian, Thai and Chinese in the restaurant, and then head to the bar or the VIP lounge. If you’d like to get a sneak peak of what’s in store for you, check out Buddha’s very professional website. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. Richelieu A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 23, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 235 88 62. Both Vatican cardinals and laymen alike will praise the healthy portions of delicious French cuisine and good wine selection. The service is attentive but not overbearing, while the impressive interior combines a 17thcentury king’s palace and a peasant tavern downstairs with a modern upstairs room. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €€€. ABEILPSU Pena Yaroslaviv Val 30/18, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 234 17 01, www.2k.com.ua. This expensive, image-conscious fusion restaurant sports an ultra-chic and aromatic interior: wicker sofas, curved walls and ceilings, and Fashion TV on flat screens. As for the food, there is the obligatory sushi Surprise A-3, Pyrohova 3, MUniversytet, tel. 246 48 28. This is one of the city’s most expensive eateries, which is probably why it’s a favourite of the Ukrainian nouveauxriches. The interior oozes European elegance, while the French cuisine features wild game dishes such as rabbit pate and no fewer than five kinds of goose liver. The entrance area also offers delectable patisserie selections. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTILEBS New Bombey Palace J-6, Druzhby Narodiv bul’v. 33A, Svitlytsia D-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 13B, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 31 86. On Kyiv’s famed tourist street, Svitlytsia has a pleasant boat-themed atmosphere with a wooden interior and high ceiling. Its French menu consists of crêpes with various fillings, and fish and meat dishes. The outdoor tables are a good idea on hot days when it can be stuffy inside. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. A MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. 285 87 08. Not a very cental location, but the food is flavourful and delicious. Appetisers such as samosas and naan bread go wonderfully with various curry and vegetarian dishes. If you don’t like Indian food and just walked in by mistake, you can stay and order from Italian, Chinese and European menus. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. AEPSU Nirvana I-6, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v., MPechers’ka, tel. Fusion Concord A-5, Pushkins’ka 42/4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 234 77 88/206 01 56, www.carteblanche.com. ua. This extremely upscale restaurant is a favourite with top businessmen, models and the like. The cuisine is called ’French Fusion’ and includes some sumptious Asian and fish selections. If you are on a budget, don’t fret: you can pop in for coffee and dessert and still get to admire the great views of central Kyiv from the rooftop location. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PTALEBS 285 52 15, www.2k.com.ua. Kyiv waited a long time to get a restaurant like this. The design, interior, and the cuisine completely complement the name: this really is dining Nirvana. Indian extravagance and cultural richness - not to mention the delicious and authentic food - are enough to put anyone’s soul in a state of bliss. There are traditional Indian, modern European and a decent number of vegetarian dishes on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PYALEGW International Bistro Cote Est B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 492 22 50. Bistro Cote Est is a modern version of a classic bistro aiming to bring together the culinary traditions of France and Ukraine. The restaurant serves simple, traditional home cuisine and drinks, inspired by the recipes of France’s Eastern regions: Alsace-Lorraine, Burgundy and the Rhone Valley, as well as local Ukrainian specialities. Q Open Mon - Fri 06:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 07: 00 - 23:30. €€€. PAULGS www.inyourpocket.com Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 38 restaurants Da Vinci Fish Club B-3, Volodymyrs’ka 12, BusinessCentre “Millenium”, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 490 34 34, www.da-vinci.com.ua. This swanky joint can prepare a variety of fish in a variety of ways. The interior is very original - a round bar on the first floor with a cosy balcony on the second. Whether the taste and/or portions match the quite high prices is debatable. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALEBW restaurants Moskva F-4, Saksahans’koho 120, MUniversytet, tel. 221 00 55. Before opening the owners of this high-class establishment promised an “uncommon and expensive” experience. With a name like Moskva (Moscow), we naively expected the menu to be full of Russian cuisine, but we couldn’t help but chuckle when we discovered “exquisite Italian and some sushi”. Wikipedia describes New Russians as “conspicuous consumers with poor taste”. If you want a face to go with the name, head on down to Moskva. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PALBW 39 Dolce D-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 4, MMaidan Nezalezh- nosti, tel. 279 67 79, info@kartamir.com.ua, www. karta.ua. In Kyiv, most places bastardize traditional cuisine to suit the local pallet. By bringing in a superb Italian chef, Dolce offers a refreshing detour from the regrettable norm. From the selection of 10 different pastas to the enticing seafood dishes and deserts, everything about this place oozes authenticity and elegance. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAULGBXS Osteria Pantagruel B-3, Lysenka 1, MZoloti Vorota, Fratelli d’Italia G-5, Saksahans’koho 38, ML’va Tol- stoho, tel. 287 41 66, www.fratelliditalia.com.ua/en. Trattoria’s short menu is evidence of the care that goes into dish selection, while the wine list is likewise mercifully short, and wonderful. If you don’t like what’s on offer, however, bring your own preferred vintage and it will be served for the nominal corkage fee. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PALB tel. 278 81 42, www.pantagruel.com.ua. A time-proven Italian favourite, Osteria is widely recognised for its excellent home-made pasta and impressive wine cellar. First-timers are strongly advised to try the ’tagliatelle alla Constantino’, named after Osteria’s chef-virtuoso Constantino Passalacqua. In the summer time you may also enjoy your meal on a charming terrazzo in front of the historic Golden Gate. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Mon - Fri 8:00 - 11:00 breakfast €€€€. ALGB Japanese Kampai G-5, Saksahans’koho 20A, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 246 74 79/289 14 09, www.campai.net. Popular among Kyiv’s jet set, Kampai never disappoints. While the itamae-san (sushi chef) prepares dishes individually for one guest, others may take advantage of the mini-theatre and watch DVDs or spy on the world via the available 500 satellite channels. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTALG Il Patio D-3, Ihorivs’ka 13/5, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. 501 74 64, www.il-patio.com.ua. Over the last few years Il Patio on Bessarabs’ka Sq. has been serving some of the finest pizza in town. The venue’s tasty Italian fare can now be enjoyed down by the riverside at Il Patio second branch. This dinning spot pays homage to Venice and even has a gondola in the main hall. The restaurant has a delicious salad bar and specialises in ‚Antipasta’ snacks as well as wonderful pizza and other Italian dishes. Also at: Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, tel. 246 43 27; Saksahans’koho 112A, tel. 594 20 87. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALGSW Planeta Sushi C-4, Khreschatyk 12, MMaidan Nezal- La Scala A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53/53, MUniver- sytet, tel. 581 70 70, www.opera-hotel.com.ua. La Scala is a classic restaurant which reflects only the highest standards of food and service as demanded by its patrons. Breakfast is a superb buffet, lunch is just ready-made for busy business people, and dinner has a positively romantic touch. Something for everyone. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEGBSW ezhnosti, tel. 270 66 79, www.planetsushi.com.ua/en/. A great choice for a wide variety of Japanese dishes. You can try nigiri, poppies, mariavase and tataki sushi, sashimi, yakitori, salads, and traditional Japanese hot dishes. Living up to the Japanese proverb ‚the guest is God’ expect personal service and attention to detail. Also at: Chervonoarmiys’ka 57/3, tel. 287 37 75; Sahaidachnoho 41, tel. 594 20 85; Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 8/14, tel. 594 20 83. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. PTASW San Tori D-1, Sahaidachnoho 41, MKontraktova Plo- Lucull G-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 63, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 287 30 80. This restaurant presents an abundance of Italian cuisine. The Roman consul Lucullus, who lived in the golden age of the Roman Empire, became famous for his banqueting, and his name has over the centuries become synonymous with lavish, luxurious and grand gourmet experiences. Nevertheless, the interior of this restaurant is simple. There are more than forty excellent Italian wines on the menu, alongside a vast selection of pizza, pasta, fish, and meat dishes. The combination of meal, pleasant music, and spacious dining rooms is a winner. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PTALGS scha, tel. 462 49 94/462 49 95. San Tori offers a unique fusion of Thai and Japanese cuisine in a setting that is an intriguingly comfortable mix of the two styles. The best thing on the menu are the lobsters: you can pick your own from the tank and send it off to be cooked as you wish. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAS SushiYA I-4, Moskovs’ka 29A, MArsenal’na, tel. 502 Mille Miglia Restorante & Enoteca B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 492 22 55. Mille Miglia is the name of the open-road vintage sports car race established in 1926 to run the 1000 miles from Brescia to Rome. The restaurant is inspired by elegance, as well as the progressive and relaxed atmosphere of the Mille Miglia race. Chef Salvatore D’Vivo presents an insight into the fantastic cuisine and wines of the regions crossed by the Mille Miglia racers. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAULG 22 22, info@kartamir.com.ua, www.karta.ua. If I stand at the entrance to my flat and throw a rock, it’s possible to smash the front window of no less that four sushi places. The proliferation of this culinary fad in Kyiv has been relentless. However, in spite of my idealistic prejudice, I do get an occasional craving for wasabi and ginger and usually choose SushiYa. The service is good, the atmosphere unobtrusive and the sushi invitingly more delicious than the reasonable prices might otherwise suggest. Also at Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 28v, Gorodets’koho 2, Baseina 5b, prosp. Peremohy 3a. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAULGXSW Tokio Zoolohichna 10, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 490 06 04. This place knows a thing or two about preparing excellent food, certainly more than it knows about spelling ’Tokyo’. The menu embraces 21 kinds of sushi, in addition to sashimi, tempura and more. Look out for lobster tail with fruit, and note that most dishes are prepared on a large tepanyaki grill in the middle of each table. There’s a bar and VIP room too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. ALE Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 40 restaurants Jewish Cimes D-3, Sahaidachnoho/Ihorivs’ka 10/5, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. 428 75 79. The cuisine is Kosher, and the different dining rooms all have their own character and appeal, while the Kosher wine list is a rare treat. Great staff and wonderful service. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTA6LEGBS ence will keep you coming back time and time again. This venue is often used for official receptions and seminars. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALEG restaurants Pe l m e n n i t s a G - 4 , C h e r v o n o a r m i y s ’ k a 5 6 , MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 289 00 91. The interior of this place combines an old merchant style with elements of modern kitsch and is perfect for business meetings, as well as for lunches with the family. The traditional Russian and Ukrainian dishes are fairly priced, while there are three separate dining rooms, as well as a special banquet hall for 60-70 people. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. €€. PAW 41 Mexican Tequila House D-2, Spas’ka 8A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 417 03 58, info@kartamir.com.ua, www.karta. ua. It’s a sociological fact that more surprise pregnancies can be linked to the consumption of tequila than any other booze on the market, and this Mexican cantina proudly serves 20 different brands (Sauza, Rio Grande, Sierra, etc.). Though Mexican cuisine can never truly be authenticated beyond the boarder of “Guatemala’s Canada”, Tequila House comes close. The chimichangas are bursting, the fajitas are always sizzling and the appetizers are just about spicy enough to fool you. This is a perfect place for a small party (a private room for up to 12 is available for booking) and hungry kids (children’s menu also available). Live music on Thursday and Saturday begins at 19:30. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTAULEGBXS King David A-5, Esplanadna 24, MPalats Sportu, tel. Petergof C-6, vul. Pylypa Orlyka 6, MKlovs’ka, tel. 253 235 74 36. It does not matter whether you choose your dishes from the Jewish kosher or European kosher menu, you will be making a sound choice. Owned by the Central Synagogue, all profits from this place go to charity. You can enjoy your food in one of two rooms: one boasts an enormous picture of Jerusalem at night, the other is a take on a typical European street. Both are enchanting. Closed during Shabat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PA Korean Han Gang I-4, vul. Entuziastiv 1, Slavutych Hotel, 16 floor, MLivoberezhna, tel. 294 14 14. Getting to this restaurant takes a small effort. Hop over the Dnipro to the left bank and the Slavutych Hotel, ascend to the 16th floor and turn right out of the lift. Once inside you’ll discover that the minor travel hassle was well worth it. The panoramic view of the right bank and the stunning domes of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra is arguably the best in the city. Skip the Japanese and order the Korean - you won’t be disappointed. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAGSW NEW 73 58. Once inside, you’ll find yourself enveloped in the Russian Empire’s golden era. The magnificent palace interior, with portraits of Tsars from the House of Romanov, is ideal for a posh experience. The most intriguing items on the menu are dishes prepared from starlet, a Eurasian species of sturgeon often referred to as the “Imperial fish”. As you wait on your meal, browse the illuminating selection of history texts on the Romanov’s and the Russian state. Dress appropriately. If you swagger through the door in jeans and your recently purchased souvenir CCCP (USSR) t-shirt, you might be turned away. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PJAIGW (Han-Gang) Korean Japanese Restaurant 한강 Moroccan Ploscha, tel. 494 04 94, info@kartamir.com.ua, www. kartamir.com.ua. The tale of «1001 Arabian nights» comes alive here. The restaurant and lounge-bar offers more than ten kinds of the best couscous in Kyiv. The menu shows a wide variety of tea and hookah, Moroccan and French desserts. There are belly dancers and DJ sets on the weekends and business lunches each weekday. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PALEGXS Seafood Avalon A-4, Leontovycha 3, MUniversytet, tel. 234 74 94, www.avalon.ua/en/. This marvelous fish restaurant offers a refined atmosphere of delight and comfort. There are more than 20 varieties of fish cooked to perfection, a huge selection of shrimps, oysters, and clams on the menu. The meat assortment is incredible too: veal, pork, lamb, moose, deer, pheasant, ostrich, heath-cock, and wild duck. An experienced sommelier will help you select the best wine to accompany your meal. There are wines from France, Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada on the wine list. For all you oyster lovers, Avalon’s Connoisseur Club is at your service. QOpen 13:00 - 02:00. PJAULEGXS Ikra oyster club F-4, Pan’kivska 11, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 288 19 90. Everything is in calm grey and black shades, but the huge Swarovski chandelier shining brightly over the presentation case stocked with fresh fish dominates. A huge glass wall allows patrons to look out in the streets while alternative views are provided by a large kitchen window that shows the chefs at work. Ikra has around 20 kinds of oysters and fresh fish and serves all manner of fish and sushi dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PAGXSW Marrakesh C-2, Sahaidachnoho 24, MKontraktova Doenjang-jjigae Dongtae-jjigae Mediterranean Angel A-5, Shota Rustaveli 10, MPalats Sportu, tel. 270 58 24. This small, cosy restaurant was recently opened by Ani Lorak, a popular Ukrainian singer. A blend of modern interiors, lounge music (hard to find elsewhere in Kyiv), low comfortable chairs and a lot of pictures of Lorak herself makes this an excellent choice for her fans and friends, and for anyone else who simply wants to enjoy good Mediterranean food. The choice of seafood is among the best in Kyiv. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Russian Kupechesky Dvor (The merchant’s yard) Stolychne shosse, 24 km (old Obukhiv route), tel. 8 067 246 6 246, www.kupecheskiy.com.ua. This restaurant presents the atmosphere of the Russian “Silver Age”. There are five VIP houses at the restaurant, each of them devoted to various famous Russian merchants. The recipes come from the best cookbooks of the 19th century. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTAILEGBS L’Accente B-6, bul’v. Lesi Ukrainky 5, MPalats Sportu, tel. 200 50 02. New on the scene, this high-end eatery has created quite a buzz. As with most things in Kyiv, expect to pay slightly more than you would in the West for the fresh, rich and steaming Mediterranean dishes that swirl about this luxurious restaurant. Divided into two unique zones, the quaint tables on the first floor, near the bar offer a view of the kitchen through aquariums. The main hall is located on the second floor and is decorated with frescos and a small fountain. A perfect location if you’re looking to impress. A harpist plays daily from 19:00. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTLGS Breakfast From 06:00 Porto G-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 206 83 87. Porto, which can be found inside the Olympiys’kyi trade complex is the latest in the worldwide chain of 12 Porto restaurants. The venue specialises in dishes made from the finest fish and seafood, as well as cuisine from Serbia and Montenegro, Croatia and Slovenia. Visitors can select the fish themselves and then observe the entire preparation process. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PA Korona Club A-5, Rohnidyns’ka, 4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 289 02 16. Six breakfast options served from Monday through Friday until 12:00 for 27 Hr. Q A Monaco C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 20A (Peyzazhna Talgen A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka, 32A, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 502 65 37/502 65 36. European breakfast for 28Hr. Q AW From 07:00 Dnipro C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2 (Dnipro hotel, 2nd floor), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 81 60. Breakfast for 135Hr. Q A From 07:30 도스비드를 통하여 호텔을 예약하신분은 저희 식당에서 조식을 하시면됩니다(오전7시부터) Alley), MZoloti Vorota, tel. 590 01 51, www.monaco. com.ua. This restaurant adopts not only the name of the Mediterranean principality, but its style and atmosphere too. Six different halls at the restaurant can satisfy a wide variety of guests. The summer terrace on the second floor opens up on the marvelous city view. The chef Thierry Alix and his team work hard to please their customers. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTALEGBXS Soviet Petrovich Club-Restaurant B-2, Yaroslavs’ka 5/2, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 79 07/425 79 08, www.club-petrovich.com.ua. This club/restaurant is a nostalgic place with a Soviet atmosphere from the 1950’s through to the 1970’s. One of the founders of the restaurant is a famous cartoonist, so there are a lot of humorous details in the décor and even on the menu, which offers meals from the Soviet Union’s past. Don’t forget your pocket dictionary as the menu is not available in English. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Business lunch for 25 Hr. Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. After 16:00 admission only for club members. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. Business lunch for 25 Hr. Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00. After 16:00 admission only for club members. €€. PTALEGS Beautiful view of the Dnipro River Two VIP rooms with karaoke The re ned taste of Korean cuisine Free Wi-Fi Internet 1 Entuziastiv Str., Slavutich Hotel, 16 oor Tel. 294 14 14 Open 07:00 - 24:00 December 2008 - January 2009 Panorama C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezal- Time Out G-5, Gorkoho 50, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 248 73 96. Classical European and American breakfast served to 12:00 from Monday through Friday and until 16:00 at Saturday and Sunday for 65Hr. Q ABP ezhnosti, tel. 254 67 14/254 67 92, www.dniprohotel. kiev.ua. An instant favourite for those who like to enjoy a magnificent view of the city. In the evening, the delicate sound of a piano will whirl you away to a world of beauty and harmony. The unforgettable memories of your experi- Kyiv In Your Pocket 42 restaurants Ukrainian Fortetsya (Fortress) Radians’koi Ukrainy prosp., MNyvky, tel. 463 5130/463 51 31. This hotel and restaurant are situated in a scenic area. The complex offers impeccable cuisine, great service, and a fascinating interior. The restaurant has four dining halls on all three levels: Sea Hall, Medieval Fairytale Hall, Viking Hall, and Venetian Carnival Hall. There are fireplaces, pergolas, billiards, and a playground for the kids. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PTAUILEGBXS restaurants Kozatskyi Stan Boryspils’ke shosse, 18 km, MBoryspilska, tel. 576 09 60, www.kstan.com.ua. This restaurant-hotel complex is situated on the way from Boryspyl into Kyiv. There are two restaurants (European and Ukrainian), three bars, guest houses, a playground, and a conference hall. Other services include catered coffee-breaks, business lunches, buffets and banquets, as well as guarded parking. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTALEGBS HOTEL & RESTAURANT 43 Hotel Restaurants Conference-center Kyiv, Boryspil higway, 18 km (300 m. from Kharkivska sguare), tel. 576-09-60, www.kstan.com.ua glisten with golden and bronze antiques, ancient ceramics and a collection of Cossack’s tobacco-pipes. Restaurant-wise this unique institution boasts a menu of hoary Ukrainian viands. Be assured that every dish is blessed - you are on the grounds of a monastery, remember? Try varenukha, a strong liquor made of dry fruits and honey with spices, as a starter and then savour a whole variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €€€. PTALEGB Kureni D-5, Parkova doroha 4, tel. 253 17 24/360 56 Hatinka G-6, Chervonoarmiis’ka 114, MPalats Ukraina, tel. 529 29 56/529 77 07. The interior of the restaurant embodies that of a colourful Ukrainian village. You can listen to the live Ukrainian folk music as you enjoy your meal. There are a lot of traditional home-style Ukrainian meals on the menu. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAGBXS Khutorets G-1, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka, moorage 1, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 80 39, www.2k. com.ua. Foreigners flock to this floating restaurant offering traditional Ukrainian décor and food. The portions are big and tasty, and the prices are very reasonable. Service can be a bit slow, but you’ll be OK as long as you don’t get seasick. Live music nightly. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. ABEL 24, www.carteblanche.com.ua/en/. Kureni, one of the oldest restaurants in Kyiv, has reopened after renovations. Chef Igor Patuk offers Ukrainian cuisine and follows the modern European traditions. The restaurant represents a truly outdoor style, but it is located in the centre of the city. The Ukrainian hospitality along with a breathtaking view of the Dnipro river and surrounding natural landscape make this place exceptionally unique. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUILEGBXS Varenichnaya #1 A-5, Esplanadna 28, MPalats Lipsky Osobnyak (Lipsky Mansion) C-6, Lyps’ka Kozats’ka Vtikha B-5, Khreschatyk 44, MKhreshatyk, tel. 279 40 71/278 29 01. This restaurant is located in the heart of the city and offers classy Ukrainian cuisine. The spacious dining rooms are generously decorated with antiques, some of which you’ll be tempted to make an offer for (or pop in your pocket when no one is looking). A genuine attempt to create a traditional Ukrainian experience abounds, and the atmosphere is jovial and lively. There is a glorious summer terrace, and live music every evening. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PTAULEGBXW 15, MArsenal’na, tel. 254 00 90, info@kartamir.com. ua, www.kartamir.com.ua. This mansion is probably the world’s only home of Ukrainian «Haute cuisine». This is only restaurant in the CIS, to receive three separate awards from the prestigious Wine Spectator magazine. The meals are cooked according to 18-19th centuries’ recipes, adjusted to modern tastes. There is a splendid dessert card also. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. €€€€. PAUILEG� BXS Pecher skyi Dvor yk C-6, Kriposnyi pr ov. 6, Sportu, tel. 287 15 39, www.2k.com.ua. From its opening, Varenichnaya # 1 became a favourite for many. To Kyivites it seems that this restaurant has always been a feature near the Palace of Sport! At the entrance you will be met by a charming decorative pig called Varvara. There are three halls decorated in a picturesque Philistine style of the early 20th century, and a summer terrace. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PTALGBS Monastyrs’ka Trapezna J-6, Vydubyts’ka 40, MDruzh- by Narodiv, tel. 451 42 56, www.restaurant-museum. com/index_en.php. A two-storied annex to the Vydubychi Monastery welcomes you to a singular fusion of museum and restaurant. Show cabinets, scattered around the restaurant hall, MArsenal’na, tel. 253 26 67. The refined bourgeois atmosphere of turn-of-the-century Kyiv is effectively recreated here for the capital’s present-day power players. Bright yellow-clad wait staff deliver traditional Ukrainian dishes with extravagant names - boiled tongue is called ‚Charming Chatterbox’. A reasonably-priced business lunch is served from 12:30 to 16:00. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. AE Vulyk (Hive) Chervonoarmiys’ka 44, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 230 26 42. Does Ukrainian cuisine seem exotic to you? Whatever your answer, it will definitely seem so when visiting here. Order pickled cucumbers with honey and spring onions, and try a drink of Ukrainian bouquet (thyme, chamomile and mint drawn in apple juice). How do you like it? Is it exotic? QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. €€. PA Pervak A-5, Rohnidyns’ka 2, ML’va Tostoho, tel. 235 09 52, www.pervak.kiev.ua. Take a trip back in time to early 20th-century Kyiv. The décor includes the showing of silent movies, and the restaurant itself is on the site of a famous merchant’s house. A friendly wait staff in costumes serves up a variety of hearty Ukrainian dishes with inventive names. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. AE Uzbek Shafran B-2, Vorovs’koho 3, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 569 10 10, info@kartamir.com.ua, www.karta.ua. This restaurant is one of the first places in Kyiv with a real atmosphere of the Middle East. The restaurant has a rich Uzbek interior with marquee tents, couches, and a private hookah VIP room. There is a wide selection of Uzbek pilaus on the menu along with many chebureki, Uzbek patties with meat, and sweet Eastern delights. Every evening there are live eastern dance performances. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PTJAULEGBXS Razguliaevo Stolychne shose 70, MVydubychi, tel. 259 17 00, info@kartamir.com.ua, www.kartamir. com.ua. This entertaining complex is situated just outside the city limits on the way to Koncha Zaspa. It includes the restaurant with outdoor gazebos a little hotel (eight rooms), three saunas. The cuisine is a fusion of Ukrainian, Russian and Caucasian dishes. There is an extensive grill menu also. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PTAULEGBXS Shangrila B-2, Yaroslavs’ka 5/2, MKontraktova Plo- Shynok Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 28V (round tower), MPechers’ka, tel. 285 57 77, info@kartamir.com.ua, www.karta.ua. Right at the entrance of the restaurant guests face small Ukrainian folk museum, with a lot different interesting exhibits. Delicious smells of fresh bakery, homemade meat and other dishes will not leave you indifferent. «Shynok» presents rich Ukrainian country cuisine. There is a wide selection of home-made liqueurs «nastoyanka». And also «Shynok» - is a perfect place to celebrate family holidays and tasty excursions for foreign friends. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PTALEGS scha, tel. 417 73 16/417 81 19. According to legend, Shangrila is a perfectly happy land isolated from the outside world. Think about that the next time you’re stuck in one of Kyiv’s mind-boggling traffic jams. This restaurant goes above and beyond to provide a niche of tranquility. Savor Uzbek and Japanese cuisine, chill out with a hookah and enjoy live music and traditional eastern dancing. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PTJALGX Wine Lavinia F-4, Zhylians’ka 59, MVokzal’na, tel. 569 57 00. The first thing that catches your eye as you approach this restaurant is a cluster of grapes interwoven into the trade mark. Respect for wine and wine culture reigns supreme. Originally a wine boutique, this quaint establishment was later altered into restaurant. There will be no shortage of vintage to perfectly complement your choice from a menu stuffed with European cuisine. The classy interior is accented by reproductions of modern French artists. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAG Tsarske Selo (Tsarist Village) J-5, Sichnevoho Povstannia 42/1, MArsenal’na, tel. 280 30 66, www.tsarske.kiev. ua/en/about.htm. A bit expensive, but the colourful village décor and traditional singing are quite entertaining, especially if you have no plans to go near a real Ukrainian village. The food is traditional and tasty, and don’t forget to take your picture with the man laid out but still clutching a jug of spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALE Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 44 restaurants Borsch and kasha – that’s our food Don’t let this Ukrainian proverb fool you, there is a lot more to Ukrainian cuisine than beet soup and porridge. The wealth of plants and animals raised in this fertile land account for a rich and varied diet. In addition, the cuisine has been enriched by past contacts with Europe and Asia. Despite the foreign influences, there is something original and distinctive about the way Ukrainians transform food into cuisine. Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked ingredients. While cooking techniques are not complicated, dishes may contain a great number of ingredients and unusual combinations, such as shuba salad which combines pickled herring and beets. Food is neither highly spiced nor bland, but skilfully seasoned to perfection. Bread, is of course the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. The country’s reputation as the “breadbasket of Europe” is well deserved. The French writer Honore de Balzac, who lived in Ukraine for four years, counted 77 di f ferent ways of preparing bread. It is such a central part of the diet here that there is a custom to give honoured guests and departing or arriving travellers the gift of a loaf of bread and salt. This tradition is still used in welcoming ceremonies for dignitaries and other important persons. Another staple of Ukrainian diet is kasha or what would be called “mush” in America and “porridge” in Britain. Borsch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even making its appearance on the menus of Chinese and Italian restaurants in Kyiv. This uniquely Ukrainian soup has been adopted by other countries in the region, but as recently as 45 years ago it could not even be found in restaurants in other Soviet republics. The many versions of borsch served throughout the country reflect the individuality of Ukrainians as well as their ingenuity. The beetbased soup can contain as many as 20 different ingredients, depending on the season, region, and of course, personal preference of the cook. It can be meatless or prepared from a rich meat stock and contain either beef or smoked pork. The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking are often dependent on the season, so most varieties of vegetables sometimes make their appearance in certain dishes in their pickled form. You also might find that certain dishes listed on a menu might not be available at certain times of year. Salads are very common, but rather than being lettuce-based, combinations of fresh, cooked, and preserved vegetables may be mixed with meat, cheese, or fish. With so many different recipes, the only constant of Ukrainian salads are the presence of vinegar or mayonnaise. Va r e n y k y a r e dumplings made from boiled or fried dough, resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can be filled with meat, p ot a to e s, c a b bage, and sometimes mushrooms for as an entrée, or sour cherries or sweetened cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind can be accompanied by butter or sour crème. The word holubtsi can be translated into “little pigeons,” but really has nothing to do with fowl of any kind. They are cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice or buckwheat and often covered with a thin tomato sauce. There are many different kinds of pastries and cakes, usually less sweet than they are made outside of continental Europe. Cafés in Kyiv quite often offer much more than just a cup of perfect coffee with a pastry. Most of them have soups, salads, and sandwiches on their menus, so the border between restaurants and cafés is very thin. Look over the selection of cafés in our guide and pick the one that is just right for your mood or occasion. CaFÉs 45 Antresol A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 2, MKhreschatyk, tel. 235 83 47. Decorated in bright, lively colours with a plethora of green plants, the pleasant atmosphere has a universal appeal. Even a party of one will be entertained by the wall photos and bookshop. Specials include a variety of fruit salads, and the service is also good. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PALW Coffee Time C-4, B. Hrinchenka 2/1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 21 56, www.coffetime.com. ua. Considered the best coffee chain in Kyiv, the prices are reasonable and (reminiscent of Starbucks in America) they seem to be on every corner. Known for their aromatic blend of Arabic (90%) and Robusta coffee (10%), they offer one of the best assortments of hot and cold beverages in the city as well as dishes for all tastes and moods, from soups to chocolate fondue. Also at: Volodymyrs’ka 42; Chervonoarmiys’ka 17, open: 09:00 - 22:00; Esplanadna 34/2, open: 09:00 - 22:00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PTJAG Pizza C e l e n t a n o F - 4 , S a k s a h a n s ’ k o h o 5 7A , MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 239 28 75. This expanding pizzeria chain champions democracy by granting patrons the choice of their own favourite toppings from a wide range of possibilities. Various salads and French crêpes with different fillings are also on offer, all to a pleasant background of Italian music.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PLGX La Bella B-4, Pushkins’ka 7, MTeatral’na, tel. 279 27 01. Thin, crust-like bread baked fresh upon ordering is a favourite here, where you can watch your pizza being baked in a large oven. A wide selection of grilled meats and fish, Italian wines and desserts such as tiramisu and profitrol are also available in this cosy restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAE La Pizza Leggera B-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 2, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 235 55 28, www.davinci-ukraine.com. In order to create a fabulous pizza, exceptional dough is essential. Leggera uses seven different fine flours that when mixed to perfection give Pizza Leggera the unmistakable flavour cherished by many. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTJAULGBS Pizza Papa A-1, Artema 82, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 486 70 72. Pizza Papa offers the only true American style pizza in Kyiv. This unique joint gives you all that you would ever expect from a New York City pizzeria, but with an atmosphere fitting for any business lunch or family dinning experience. Pizza Papa’s plusses are its soft cosy couches, American design and service, and a menu with more selection than the pizzerias back in Brooklyn. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALBS Pizzeria Napulè Mechnykova 9, MKlovs’ka, tel. 461 92 63, www.napule.com.ua. This place is as authentic as it gets. A pizzaiolo from Naples (Giuseppe Irollo), a wooden stove built by a Neapolitan master (Stefano Ferrara) from Neapolitan materials, about 20 kinds of pizza made with special Neapolitan flour and real Neapolitan cuisine from Adelaide Zazzaro. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PALG Primavera Mel’nykova 6, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 239 97 29. A simple but more original dining choice out near Luk’yanivs’ka. Thirty kinds of tasty pizza can be enjoyed in a pleasant summer pavilion, and the service is efficient with a smile. Q Open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat-Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. ABL Vezuvio Pizza B-3, Reitars’ka 25, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 235 66 81. The capital’s first pizzeria is still spinning delicious small and large pizzas at inexpensive prices. Spaghetti, salads and desserts are also on offer, not to mention a variety of crépes. The staff are friendly and English-speaking. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. €€. ABP D.A.Semadeni G-5, Cher vonoarmiys’ka 68, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 289 63 80. The Swiss Semadeni sweet-shop was a favourite destination for visitors in Kyiv during the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. True, it had another address, but the present-day sweet-shop going by the same famous name is no disgrace. The interior breathes respectability. There are five sorts of chocolate offered, various cakes, and sweets made on-site. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PTALGBXS A tort Kyivskyi is a local specialty, made of layers of crumbly raised wafers, hazelnuts, and it even comes in its own special green box. For a uniquely Ukrainian drink, try kvas, a slightly sweet non-alcoholic beverage with a wheat-like taste sold from giant tanks on wheels in the summer throughout the city. During any walk down the main streets of Kyiv, a visitor will notice that local beers (pyvo) are sold at almost every kiosk and tables on sidewalks and street corners. While Ukraine does not have the history of beer making that Germany or Belgium boast of, it is still a very popular drink. There are several major beer brewing companies in Ukraine: Obolon, Slavutych, Chernihivske, Lvivske, Sarmat. Ukrainians are especially fond of spending time outdoors with a cold beer, watching and meeting other people, and talking with friends. This a common summer ritual when the weather warms up. In winter some men enjoy various brands marked mitsne meaning “strong” with alcoholic contents of around 7%. Double Coffee D-2, Kostiantynivs’ka 1/2, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 206 69 11, www.doublecoffee. com.ua/eng. This charming café chain catches your eye from the start with its wonderfully illustrated menu. A wide variety of dishes from kashas and crêpes to sushi sets and salads with pumpkin seeds can satisfy any taste or mood. The wide variety of tastes and smells in this coffee-bean atmosphere helps you to forget all about your hurried life on the outside. The café is often crowded on the weekends, so plan accordingly. Also at Mykhailivs’ka 6. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAGS MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 484 16 68. A comfortable terrace with a tile floor, ornamental forged umbrella-lamps, a mahogany bar...everything conveys the atmosphere of a French street café. There’s no traditional shop window, because deserts are made before the visitor’s eyes. The dessert menu lists 65 items: éclairs, tiramisu, meringue, cheesecakes, puddings, mousses, pies, varenyki, and what not? The candies are made from extra fine Ghirondelli chocolate, which is specially imported from Belgium. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. TALGBS Éclair, confectionary restaurant A-1, Artema 82, Etno cafe B-4, Pushkins’ka 25, MTeatral’na, tel. 332 www.inyourpocket.com 28 88. There are only a few venues in centre that combine quality, service and reasonable prices. One of these is Etnodelicious European cuisine in a cosy setting. The menu is a conglomeration of Italian, French and Spanish gastronomy. Are you a connoisseur of fine wines or hard spirits? Go no further. Etno offers a plethora of wines and hard liquors to compliment and enrich your meal. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. €€€. PTALEGBS Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 46 CaFÉs Gloria Jean’s Coffees A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 34, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 289 39 77, www.gloriajeans. ua. Established over 30 years ago, Gloria Jean’s Coffees has become a global icon with stores in over 30 countries, and now we can add Ukraine to the list. The fist café was opened in Kyiv last year, and they promise five more in the near future. Tired of the plastic-cup swill served at the kiosk? Gloria Jean’s Coffees is famous for it’s coffee-to-go! Also at Khreschatyk 13, Chervonoarmiys’ka 118.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTJAS nIGhtLIFe Have Your Say If you have had an experience to remember at any of the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website now has a module below it for you to comment on the places we write about. You can agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to hell (in the case of angry restaurant owners unhappy with their reviews). Kyiv is much more of a club city than a bar town. There is a bar and club scene at the heart of the city centre, but don’t be surprised if you encounter more of your own countrymen than Ukrainians in these establishments. It can be difficult to find an empty table on weekends, especially when many popular expatriate hangouts offer drink specials at peak hours. On weekends and holidays, the main street of Khreschatyk is closed to automobile traffic, making it Kyiv’s most active scenes for nightlife, people-watching, or a casual stroll. For something a little more active and exciting, jazz and techno dance clubs are just as busy now as any time of the year. 47 Bellini’s Bar A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, MUniver- sytet, tel. 492 74 92, www.opera-hotel.com. The Bellini’s Bar is a very classic type outlet, offering a wide range of international beverages, large cocktail variety and high class wines by the glass. In addition, there’ll be a humidor where guests can enjoy cigars. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PTALGS Bierstube A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 20, ML’va Tol- House of Coffee C-4, Khreschatyk 15/4, MKhreschatyk, tel. 279 12 09. From the sophisticated interior décor complete with Mucha wall hangings to the great people-watching tables on fashionable Passage, this is a place both to see and where to be seen. As expected, a wide selection of coffees, teas and sweet delectables only adds to the occasion. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PTALGBS Bars & Pubs Baraban (Drum) B-4, Prorizna 4A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 279 23 55. This cosy but hard-to-find hole-in-the-wall is usually populated by politicos, journalists and ex-pats holding forth on the subject of the day. The neighbourhood atmosphere goes well with the tasty and moderately-priced Ukrainian food, and the jazz music adds another pleasant dimension. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AE Bar on 8 C-3, A.Tarasovoyi 5, Hyatt Regency Kyiv, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 581 12 34, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt. com. With its vantage point on the 8th floor of the first international five-star hotel in Kyiv, situated in the middle of Sofiivs’ka Square and overlooking the magnificent Saint Sophia Cathedral and St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral, Bar on 8 offers the breathtaking panoramic views in the city. Being an all-day lounge, Bar on 8 also serves light dishes such as salads, sandwiches, steaks and desserts. During warmer months, guests enjoy alfresco dining with variations of meat and seafood grilled to perfection on the Australian grill and original tandoor oven. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PTAULGS stoho, tel. 235 94 72. This place is a popular hangout for yuppies of local and foreign origin, as well as a meeting place for gays. The food is German and American, with sand wiches and beer being the most popular items. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. L Brunello C-3, A.Tarasovoyi 5, Hyatt Regency Kyiv, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 581 12 34, www.kyiv. regency.hyatt.com. Bar Brunello is the exclusive wine bar and the best place to meet at the end of the day. Brunello offers an unrivalled selection of fine Italian wines, with a particularly wide range of Brunello wines. The ambiance is very cosy and warm, defined by contemporary, rustic brown masonry works, subdued intimate lighting and the impressive feature bar. Along with remarkable wine collection, guests can enjoy winning recipes of signature cocktails created by highly-skilled barmen. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. PTAULGXS Kafka A-4, L’va Tolstoho 11/61, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 235 44 13. If you’re hoping to pop in for something quick, prepare to be disappointed. In fact, after being snubbed three times by the waitress in a 20 minute period, we left without ordering and walked across the street to Shevchenko Park, where we had surprisingly fresh espresso compliments of one of the beverage vendors. A few other things should be mentioned about Kafka. First, they have an impressive beverage menu (English available) - everything from mochaccinos to matte to mulled wine. Second, they try hard to create a chic atmosphere, so you’ll have to weave through a maze of local wannabes on the way to your table. Finally, if you win Kafka’s service lottery and you’re lucky enough to actually place an order, the deserts are probably delicious. Also at Spas’ka 5, Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v. 36A, Chervonoarmiys’ka 5A (Arena City).QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGS Joss L-3, Raisy Okipnoi 2, Tourist hotel, 2-nd floor, MLivoberezhna, tel. 541 01 57, www.joss.com.ua. Casino, Restaurant, Pub, Strip Bar. The pub serves European and Japanese cuisine; it has a wide assortment of bottled and tap beers. There are seven plasma TVs with regular sports broadcasts, darts, skittles, and Yard el. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AL Makabi A-5, Shota Rustaveli 15, MPalats Sportu, tel. 235 94 37. Located next to the central synagogue, this small, inexpensive grill-bar has a friendly neighbourhood feel. All the food is on view, so just point to what you want. A synagogue representative is always present to ensure kosher rules. Makabi is closed on Saturdays. QOpen 09:00 23:00. €€. PG Leonardo Ice Cream café B-3, Lysenko 1, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 278 71 40, www.davinci-ukraine.com. The Ice cream is made right in the shop. Unequalled in taste and creaminess, patrons may chose from a variety of delicious flavours. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAULGBS Nescafé C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 8A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 490 34 86. The international coffee brand has opened six cafés around town, filling a need for quality, reasonably-priced beverages. In addition to the expected cappuccinos, espressos and iced coffees, coffee-lovers can also partake of salads, sandwiches and sweets amid the bright modern décor. Also at: Globus mall, 1st line; Globus mall, 3rd line; Metrograd mall; Sahaidachnoho 31; Luhova 9. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PABX Repriza B-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25, MUniversytet, tel. 246 49 00. One of the first patisseries in the city, it has a lovely Viennese room stuffed with enough sugary delights to entertain the kids and give you all a cavity or two. Though specializing in danishes, cakes and other gourmet sweets, those in need of more substantial food can partake of delicious soups and salads. Also located at Sahaidachnoho 10 and Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 38, Chervonoarmiys’ka 26. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTAGBS Shokoladnitsa A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 48, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 287 00 88. Shokoladnitsa is exceptional for two reasons: the service is likely the best of all the coffee house chains in Kyiv, and many are open 24 hours. There’s nothing pretentious, or rushed about this place, despite the fact that it originated in Moscow. Chill-out with a beverage, and nibble on a variety of familiar café delectables at locations around the city that offer a convenient detour from the rat race. As with all “chains”, expect consistency and mediocrity and you won’t be disappointed. Other mentionables include menu in English, continental breakfast ’till 11:00 and coffee to go. Also at Saksahans’koho 53/80, Basseina 1/2. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PAGBSW Wolkonsky Kayzer C-4, Khreschatyk 13, MKhreschatyk, tel. 201 03 96, www.wolkonsky.com.ua. The aroma of fresh baked bread will have you salivating from the second you set foot in this posh café/bakery. Although you can’t expect to benefit from any government bread subsidies, you can count on friendly service, a soothing atmosphere and an impressive selection of pastries, breads, sandwiches, chocolates and other goodies. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTALBS Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 48 nIGhtLIFe Docker Pub Bohatyrs’ka 25, MHeroiv Dnipra, tel. 451 85 28, www.docker.com.ua. There aren’t many venues which encourage their customers to dance on the table but Docker Pub is just that! This Rock n’ Roll joint is a lively raucous affair where bands play to an enthusiastic crowd determined to dance and flirt till sunrise. All manner of cocktails are available at the bar for incredibly reasonable prices and the service is warm and friendly. A little bit out of the way but well worth the journey. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. nIGhtLIFe Casinos Officially banned during Soviet times, casinos have been multiplying and generally being quite fruitful in terms of attracting people looking to make a quick hryvnia. Roulette, poker and black jack plus those noisy video slots machines are the usual combination. For as little as 10 to 25 hryvnia, a would-be winner can place a minimum bet in casinos with all the class and glitter of their Las Vegas counterparts - even down to the free drinks in some establishments. Many also have bars, restaurants and erotic shows if you like spending your money in other ways. Avalon A-5, Leontovicha 3, MUniversytet, tel. 234 74 96, www.avalon.ua. This all-inclusive entertainment complex contains a café, restaurant, several bars and a night club. The casino offers poker, roulette and black jack, plus a free nightly buffet for all gamblers. QOpen 17:00 - 06:00. OALE 49 Clubs If you are familiar with the club scene in other parts of Europe, you will feel at home with the loud atmosphere, overpriced drinks, and relatively high entrance fees of Kyiv’s nightclubs. A few differences you might note are the availability of hookah (Middle Eastern flavoured tobacco), professional dance or model shows, and it is socially acceptable for men to dance with each other. Guys, be wary of the young, attractive women some clubs hire to entice foreign men to spend money on champagne, overpriced dinners and drinks. Dorothy’s Pub A-5, Saksahans’koho 16/43, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 287 05 30. The sign out front read “Dorothy’s Pub”. (Cue The Twilight Zone theme song.) Have I been transported back to my native state of Utah? The scenes of Monument Valley and Arches National Park, the Osmonds glaring at me from the menu with their cheesy Colgate smiles and the sweet smell of Western American style barbecue creeping out from under the saloon doors are all eerily familiar. Or am I in Kyiv? No. It couldn’t be. The service here is far too good for Kyiv. Where am I? And who the hell is Dorothy? As it turns out, I am in Kyiv, and Rod Serling is not sitting next to me munching on ribs, nor is he sipping on a Czech beer, nor is he sampling the Turkish style calamari, but if he were still alive I’m sure he would not object to such a wonderful mishmash of sites, sounds and flavours. And who is Dorothy? No one seemed to know. (Cue more Twilight Zone theme song.) Great specials! QOpen 11:00 - 05:00, Sat-Sun 12:00 - 05:00. AELPGSI Casino 21 st Centur y Saksahans’koho 51, MRespublicans’kyi Stadion, tel. 289 17 03. This rafflecrazy casino gives out daily prizes of $1,000 plus additional $5,000 prizes on Friday and Saturday. Free entrance gives full access to five kinds of poker plus the usual selection and, lest we forget, nightly erotic shows beginning at 21:00. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AL Gabriela C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 88 81, www.gabriela.kiev.ua. The usual gaming tables, slot machines and weekly raffle prizes of $2,500 are all at your service at Dnipro Hotel. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AL Arena Entertainment B-5, Basseina 2A, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 492 00 00. This venue was the official hangout for Eurovision 2005 participants. It is an entertainment complex accommodating several bars, a night club and a casino under one roof. Try your luck in Blackjack, Poker or American roulette. In any case, you may wind up your night out in the night club partying till dawn. Q Open: restaurant and Beer House 09:00 - 04:00, Sport-Bar 12:00 - 04:00, night club Tue - Sun 22:00 - 06:00. POALEBK Azhur A-4, Leontovycha 3, MUniversytet, tel. 234 74 94, fax 278 50 05, www.avalon.ua. This stereo disco club is a real diamond of Kyiv night life. The best music from the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s provides a bright and dazzling atmosphere. The Beetles, Elvis Presley, Marilyn Monroe, Lisa Minnelli, the Rolling Stones, and the Doors songs guarantee an unforgettable night in this club. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. POALEXS Garage A-5, Shota Rustaveli 12, MPalats Sportu, tel. 287 02 04. Appetisers and beer snacks abound for those watching sports on the big projection TV or jamming to live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Although there’s no Englishlanguage menu at this car-themed establishment, you can point to pictures of such dishes as “speed”, “autobahn”, and “Grand Prix”. A business “auto lunch” is also served. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00 AELPT Carribean Club F-4, Kominterna 4, MUniversytet, tel. Joss L-3, Raisy Okipnoi 2, Tourist hotel, 2-nd floor, MLivoberezhna, tel. 541 01 57, www.joss.com.ua. Casino, Restaurant, Pub, Strip Bar. Roulette, Black Jack, five kinds of Poker games, and slot machines. The drinks and food are free while gambling. Every Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday at 23:00 there is a drawing for cash prizes, and immediate winnings with scratch cards. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. ALE Golden Gate Irish Pub B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 15, MZolo- ti Vorota, tel. 235 51 88, info@kartamir.com.ua, www. karta.ua. This is a true Irish Pub with the largest selection of draught beer in Kyiv. The menu has special beer appetizers. There are darts, a billiard room, big screen TVs for sports fans, and live music every Friday and Saturday. Golden Gate offers business lunch on weekdays and breakfast at the weekend. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PTJAULEGBXS 288 12 90/235 59 61, www.caribbean.com.ua. Want to test your salsa skills? Carribean Club proudly presents the live rhythms of the Latino group “disLOKAdos”. For you novices , the dance school is one of the first and most popular salsa schools in Kyiv. The cost of one lesson is 25Hr. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PAILEG CC A-6, Saksahanskoho 1G, MRespublikanskyi Stadion, tel. 228 86 08, info@kartamir.com.ua, www.karta.ua. This restaurant, karaoke, and disco-bar is a part of the Mirovaya Karta chain of restaurants. The name is the abbreviation of the Central Committee of the Communist Party. The favourite dishes of the former leaders of the Soviet Communist Party are on the menu. The restaurant has a main hall with a stage, and private VIP rooms. Karaoke fans can choose from a selection of 14,000 songs to sing with professional musicians. There is also jazz every Tuesday and 80’s disco every Thursday and Friday. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. €€€. PJALG Split Club A-5, Prorizna 8, MKhreschatyk, tel. 536 O’Brien’s C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 17A, MMaidan Nezalezh- nosti, tel. 279 15 84. Kyiv’s first Irish pub is still a favourite with ex-pats and upwardly mobile Ukrainians. O’Brien’s bars serve up plenty of beer great with none-too-shabby pub food like shepherd’s pie, and their Irish breakfast is enough to hold you until dinner. Upstairs you’ll find darts, billiards and the city’s best atmosphere for watching sports on the big screen. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. AELP 17 17. Split is one of Ukrain’s oldest and most successful casinos. A hryvnia hall and a higher-stakes dollar hall offer the standard gaming tables. The are also nightly cash prizes and erotic shows. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. POALK Gay & Lesbian Androgyn Harmatna 26/2, MShuliavs’ka, tel. 496 19 83. The city’s first gay night-spot underwent remodeling and got a new name in the process. The Soviet-style exterior is now a far cry from its ultra-hip interior. Androgyn’s distinguishing features are intimate dark rooms and a ’ladies’ night’ promotion on Tuesdays. Cyber café B-4, Prorizna 21, MKhreschatyk, tel. 278 05 48. This café has three halls: disco, hookah and a restaurant. The menu offers reasonable priced European cuisine. Music is presented in European radio format. A “Travesty show”, and a men and women strip show. Admission: Mon-Tue 10Hr, Wed, Thu, Sun - 15Hr, Fri, Sat - 20Hr for men, 30Hr for women. Pomada (Lip stick) C-5, Zan’kovets’koi 6, MKhreschatyk, tel. 279 55 52. This is an élite club for people with non-traditional orientation that offers parties, concerts, and a disco with popular DJ’s. During the day it is a restaurant that offers European cuisine. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Docker’s ABC C-5, Khreschatyk 15/4A, MKhres- Sunduk (The Chest) C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 14 65. The main features of this classic pub are the pleasant wooden interior and bill transactions made via a treasure chest. In spite of a noticeable attempt to copy Western styles in the interior, the music is very Eastern. The dishes and drinks listed on the menu are not necessarily present in the kitchen. Nevertheless, if you plan to arrive after 18:00, it would be better to reserve a table beforehand and prepare for being consumed by cigarette smoke even in the room for non-smokers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AEP chatyk, tel. 278 34 58, www.docker.com.ua. This is a café and bar during the day and a night club in the evenings. The menu, in both English and German languages, is of European and Ukrainian cuisine. Live music with a dock style interior. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Mon-Frid 12:00 -16:00 Business Lunch 25Hr. Admission Sun-Thu 10Hr, Fri-Sat 25Hr. PJAE Faberge I-4, Rybal’ska 22, MKlovs’ka, tel. 501 79 Talgen A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 32A, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 502 65 37/502 65 36. This three roomed beerhouse is situated near Khreschatyk on L’va Tostoho Sq. It offers breakfast from 06:00 for 28Hr and business-lunches for 42Hr from 12:00 to 16:00. Specials are changed daily. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PTALEGS 79. This club is for mature and respectable people and has strict face control. The under 18s are not allowed in. Housed within the walls of an old fortress, Faberge embodies good taste and sophistication. The venue serves a variety of exclusive drinks which are hard to find anywhere else in the city, and delicious snacks to keep you dancing. A club which is almost destined to be a favourite with the city’s beautiful people and high fliers. Admission is free every night. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. AP Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 50 nIGhtLIFe Joss L-3, Raisy Okipnoi 2, Tourist hotel, 2-nd floor, MLivoberezhna, tel. 541 01 57, www.joss.com.ua. Casino, restaurant, pub, strip bar, live music, dance floor, and cocktail menu. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. ALE In this issue we have included a one day walking tour in case you are short of sightseeing time, but even if you have longer the tour lists some of the most important historic and cultural attractions. Kyiv’s main attraction for domestic and foreign tourists are its famous gold domed cathedrals and churches, magnificent and impressive sanctuaries of piety, history, and art. Since every one needs souvenirs to take home, God kindly created Andriivs’ky uzviz. There are also many museums, including a unique outdoor museum on the edge of the city limits. Kyiv has the highest number of square kilometres of park per resident in Europe, many of which are lined with benches and dotted with monuments to Ukraine’s literary, political, or fictional heroes. What to see 51 Pioneer Ice Club I-4, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MArsenal’na, tel. 496 53 53, www.ice-club.com.ua. Ice club has an ice skating arena and cafeteria. The menu has the most popular meals from many of the finest European mountain resorts. The summer terrace has a panoramic view of Lavra and both banks of the Dnipro River. Every Friday there is a disco on ice. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAULGB Sorry Babushka E-3, Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, MUniversytet, NEW tel. 486 03 00. Out with the old and in with the new. This club has elbowed into the space formerly occupied by the once popular Sound Planet. Very few changes have actually been made to the new club’s interior, but with a completely overhauled concept, Babushka has become an immediate hit among the capital’s clubbers. On the first floor you’ll find karaoke, the second floor spins 80’s and 90’s and disco ‘til your platforms cave in on the third floor. There’s a karaoke tournament every Wednesday - the winner receives a DVD player. Other special offers can be found throughout the week at Babushka’s Vnuchata (grandchildren’s) Party. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. PA London Club C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Ne- zalezhnosti, tel. 278 88 21, www.london-club.kiev. ua. London Club claims to put on a non-stop erotic show’ of beautiful dancers, complete with private shows and table dancing. This fantasy world at Dnipro Hotel is yours for the taking - after forking out 100Hr for the admission. But for that price you get to enjoy gourmet snacks’ from the bar. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. AL Essential Kyiv 2, MPoshtova Ploscha. This is wi th ou t a doubt one of Kyi v’s oldest and most beloved streets. In ancient times it linked the administrative part of the upper town with Podil, the lower town of merchants and artisans. Its steep and winding cobblestones are a traditional place for outdoor festivals and concerts, and it has numerous intriguing art galleries and museums. Of course, being at the very heart of the city’s art community the street is a favourite stop for tourists in search of paintings and traditional Ukrainian crafts, as well as a repository for all souvenirs tacky and/or Soviet. The sidewalk artisans come out in full force on weekends and big holidays. There’s an interesting building at N°15 that Kyivites refer to as the Castle of Richard. Built in 1902, it’s currently being remade into a hotel by a Ukrainian-American joint venture. A bit further down on the right is a steep, twisting flight of iron steps which will reward lovers of heights with yet another commanding vantage point above Podil and the Dnipro. At the bottom of the hill, turn left to reach the former marketplace of Kontraktova ploscha or right to head toward the funicular at Poshtova ploscha. C-5, vul. Bankova 10, MKhreschatyk. This building was built almost one hundred years ago in an eclectic-modern style by Kyiv architect Gorodetsky, and is probably the most unique building in Kyiv. Gorodetsky devoted all of his free time to his passion for hunting. His dreams about the African savannah came alive in the wild forms of the structure. The sophisticated architectural forms are accompanied by phantasmagorical animal figures. The gigantic elephants’ trunks serve as water drains. The rhinoceros, elephants, antelopes, gigantic frogs, and mermaids riding whales, are all made of cement. At the beginning of the 19th century cement was new in the building industry, and the owner of a local cement factory provided Gorodetsky with a free supply; in return he received free advertising of his product. Gorodetsky made full use of the uneven Kyiv landscape. The building has three stories on one side and six on the other. Every floor has a separate apartment. The building was ahead of its time, and had an ice room for food storage, a wine room, a laundry room, and a barn for the Andrew’s Descent D- Xlib Club F-1, Frunze 12, MKontraktova Ploscha. The name of this new club Xlib (meaning bread) is an expression of the essence of the place: simplicity. It is hidden on a small street in Podil, and the interior has yet to be refurbished. Basically the place is two rooms: a dance floor, and a chill out room. Crowds throng to enjoy the DJs’ stylish and contemporary sounds. The fact that it lacks a bit in décor and extravagance is - if anything - a bonus. QOpen Thu, Sun 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PA eros) L-6, Dniprovska Naberezhna, 7, MLivoberezhna, tel. 490 54 44. Located on the left bank of the Dnipro River, Tsvetochnyi Nosorog is easy reachable by minivans from Livoberezhna metro station. It’s situated in the basement of the restaurant Kleopatra. A cosy venue with 7 VIP-rooms. Admission: Sun-Thu 50Hr, Fri-Sat 70Hr. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: Sun-Thu 50Hr, Fri-Sat 70Hr. PALS Tsvetochnyi Nosorog strip-club (Flowered Rhinoc- Massage Elvira Salon G-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 360 70 81, www.elvira.net.ua. The beautiful and professional masseurs help you to relax and enjoy the art of erotic massage.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Imperia tel. 237 07 71/8 050 383 54 85/8 050 237 07 71, www.imperia-mas.kiev.ua. Massage salon welcomes you to the world of physical relaxation, enjoyment and erotic imagination. Masseuses are willing to grant you the harmony of soul and body 24hrs.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Jackline tel. 362 99 09/8 050 993 30 15, www.vipmassage.kiev.ua. Professionals in erotic massage will make your stay full of pleasure. The salon’s policy implies massage facilities without intimacy. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Rakuena G-4, Shovkovychna 48, MKhreschatyk, tel. 568 29 47, www.rakuena.com. Tender hands of Rakuena’s charming girls and boys promise to release you from muscular and nervous strain, recover your strength, give you a feeling of bliss and joy of life. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. House with Hymer s Located in Kyiv centre imperia-mas.kiev.ua +380 44 237 07 7 1 +380 50 383 54 85 horse drawn carriages In the basement he even placed a special room for a cow, so that the people living in the building would be able to have fresh milk every morning. Surrounded in mystery and legend, the building is itself a fairy tale, and the brightest page in the history of Kyiv architecture. Khreschatyk C-4/B-5, MKhreschatyk. From its northern end of European Square to Bessarabs’ka Square and its southern terminus, Kyiv’s most central, most famous and best people-watching street is not even 2km long. Despite what has been called the most impressive unbroken string of Stalinist architecture anywhere, Khreschatyk’s gently curving design and wide chestnut-lined sidewalks make it a lovely place for a relaxing stroll. The trees also provide welcome shade during hot summer months, although on weekends and holidays when the street becomes a pedestrian area many prefer to frolic in the street among street performers. It’s hard to believe that this area was once a valley surrounded by a dense forest. The valley’s name was ’Khreschata’, meaning ’crossed’, because of the many ravines that crossed it. Malls already exist at Bessarabska and metros Khreschatyk and Maidan Nezalezhnosti, and another is definitely in the works for European Square as well. As for above-ground shopping, TsUM - the central department store - is actually becoming rather modern and has little to show of its Soviet past. Perhaps in an act of poetic justice the whole street will collapse under this retail strain and again revert to a valley. In the old days the royalty of Kyiv liked to hunt here - but for the foreseeable future the only hunting done on Khreschatyk will be for souvenirs, clothes and pretty Ukrainian women. C-4, M Maidan Nezalezhnosti. Kyi v’s cen tral s quare h a s un d er gon e major changes in recent years, both above ground and below. The square is now referred to as “the big greenhouse”, that’s not a botanical compliment but rather an indictment of the Globus Shopping Centre’s glassy domes. At least it’s no longer October Revolution Square with a big Lenin statue as it was in Soviet times. Maidan is famous for the events of the Orange Revolution. Downtown Kyiv was in the headlines all over the world. When you walk on Maidan and Khreschatyk, just imagine the whole square and surrounding streets filled with people and tents all decorated in orange. Maidan Nezalezhnosti Adult Entertainment Marilyn A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 32A, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 240 76 68. Show bar Marilyn is situated in the basement of the beerhouse Talgen. It offers a non-stop programme of erotic shows featuring beautiful dancers. Private shows and VIP-rooms are also available. Admission 40Hr. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAULGS massage salon no intimacy Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar (Mint Rhinoceros) G-6, Chervonoarmiys’ka 111/113, MPalats Ukraina, tel. 529 20 00. A cosy little place that hosts as many as 40 people. There are 8 private tables, Indian décor with plastered illustrations from Kamasutra, a bar and European cuisine. Beer costs 15-20Hr. Main dishes are around 40Hr. Admissions: Fri-Sat 70Hr, Sun-Thu 50Hr. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Pechersk district www.vipmassage.kiev.ua +380 44 362 99 09 +380 50 993 30 15 Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 52 What to see A trip to a ghost town Tourist Information 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Kyiv Tourist Information Centre F-4, Koninternu 7-9, tel. 490 17 11. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. What to see Tourist Information Centre “Kyiv” C-4, Khreschatyk 2, tel. 278 45 42. QOpen C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 23, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. 278 58 61. Famous Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli was the mastermind behind this attractive Baroque church that greets the throngs at the top of Andriivs’kyi uz viz. Built in 1754, it’s one of the rare buildings in Kyiv that has managed to avoid serious damage or reconstruction. The elegant silhouette of its one large dome and five lesser cupolas are easily visible from Podil and beyond. Apostle Andrew, who was the first Christian to preach the gospel in Kyivan Rus, was said to have erected a cross on this very site. It was the wish of Peter the Great’s religiously-minded daughter Elizabeth after her visit to Kyiv in 1744 that this church be built. It must be said that compared to the beautiful exterior, the interior is rather disappointing - too much loud red and gold colours and really not much to see. Console yourself with a stroll around the church’s perimeter, a walk which the famous Ukrainian writer Gogol also enjoyed. The ticket window is near the base of the steps, and English tours are available. Mykhailivs’ka ploscha, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 89 56. St. Michael’s is at the top of the funicular, opposite St. Sophia’s Cathedral. Originally built by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108, this cathedral was destroyed by the Soviet regime in the mid-1930s in keeping with their antireligion agenda. Its reconstruction was completed in May 2000. The sky blue exterior and glittering golden domes are certainly stunning, even though up close it all seems a bit too new and shiny for this ancient city. Another reminder, albeit a much smaller one, of the Communists’ inhuman policies is to the right as you exit the church grounds, where there is a monument to the millions of Ukrainian victims of the Great Famine. It solemnly bears the simple inscription ’1932-1933’ (the years of the famine). Farther out in the square, the statues of Princess Olga, Apostle Andrew, St. Cyrill and St. Mephodius were also reconstructed (after being destroyed by the Communists) in 1996. 53 St. Andrew’s Church City tours Alvona C-3, Sofiis’ka 16/16, office 3, tel. 206 14 10/230 47 12, vip@alvona.kiev.ua, www.alvona.com. Arktur vul. Esplanadna 4, office 107, tel. 490 71 37, fax 490 71 38, www.arktur.ua. Kyiv city tours, hotel reservation throughout Ukraine and visa support, transportation services, air/train ticket reservation, social and cultural tour programs, corporate and incentive travels for groups. Intours Kyiv C-3, Hospital’na 12, office 3, tel. 234 75 52/234 72 82, tourism@intours-kiev.com, www. intours-kiev.com. Mysterious Kyiv tel. 491 11 76, tour@interesniy.kiev. ua. Mysterious Kyiv propose exclusive tours on Secret Kyiv places, Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro, tours to Chernobyl Zone. Excursions in your language. New Logic B-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 17/52 (Business-centre “Leonardo”) office 523 (floor 5), MTeatral’na, tel./fax 206 33 22, info@newlogic.ua, www.newlogic.ua. KYIV BUS CITY TOUR in English every Sat and Sun at 12 a.m. starting from Maidan Nezalezhnosti. More than 20 DIFFERENT EXCURSIONS in English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Greek, Polish, Czech, Chinese, Japanese, Hungarian and Hebrew. Tours to CHERNOBYL Zone. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Sonata-Travel C-3, Dmytriivs’ka 19A, office 4, tel. 507 02 30, fax 486 85 92, admin@tour-ua.com, www.tour-ua.com. A similar impression is felt by current visitors, so strong is the sense of history. Meetings with foreign diplomats and treaty negotiations were held here, and the church housed the first library and school in the Kyivan Rus. The azure and white bell tower is 76m high and was finished in 1752, while the upper Ukrainian Baroque part and gilded cupola were added in 1852. Today the entire cathedral complex is protected by Ukraine as a national reserve and also receives support from UNESCO. The 18th-century refectory is now a museum and contains archaeological artefacts and architectural displays, such as model panoramas depicting Kyiv as it looked before being razed by Mongol invaders in 1240. It may cost 2Hr just to enter the grounds next to the bell tower, but if it means this spiritual and cultural treasure is kept in good shape then we’re all for it. The kiosk selling tickets for the cathedral itself is straight ahead. On your way out don’t forget to take your picture postcard-perfect shot of Cossack leader Bohdan Khmelnyts’kiy on his horse. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 20Hr for all the exhibits. It’s not every trip abroad you have the chance to visit the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident, is it? The Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant is only about a two-hour ride north of Kyiv. New Logic Tours - in conjunction with a government agency - offers a day trip to the region, wisely realising that the market for overnight stays is not great. According to travel companies you can actually enter the contaminated zone, where you’ll be joined by your Englishspeaking guide, who will show you the fateful reactor N°4 (from a safe distance). You’ll also visit the nearby ghost town of Pripyat - where some apartments still bear witness to the haste in which 47,500 residents were made to leave their homes - and have a chance to converse with residents of surrounding villages who refused to move. A trip to the acres of fields filled with contaminated vehicles, helicopters, etc. used in the cleanup is optional. Comfortingly, you’ll be accompanied on your return trip to Kyiv by the same friendly driver, bringing your 10-hour journey to environmental hell and back to a close. Then you can enjoy a nuclear-free dinner: you’ll participate in the cooking and checking of the ingredients for radiation with a dosimeter. And in case you’re wondering, yes, your body will receive above-average doses of radiation throughout the day, but the effects are said to be harmless... If you are not convinced, you can satisfy your curiosity in radiation free environment: The National Museum of Chernobyl. rota. Golden Gate, (Zoloti Vorota), one of the most famous architectural sites in Kyiv, has finally reopened after three long years of renovation. The remains of these ancient gates, built during the time of the Kyivan Rus, are included on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The pavilion on top of the ancient monument is part of the recent construction, which preserves the ancient brick walls. The pavilion is an exact replica of the old gates, painstakingly put together by historians and architects. The main part of the building is 14 meters high. D-5, Hrushevs’koho 5, MArsenal’na. Closed to those not entitled to a special audience with President Yuschenko, nevertheless, this beautiful blue and creamcoloured palace is a pleasant place to walk around. The scenic route to the palace starts at the arch of Ukrainian and Russian reunification near European Square and continues up the stairs and into the shady park. Named in honour of Russian Empress Maria, the wife of Tsar Alexander II, the palace was completed in 1755 and excellently combines elements of Ukrainian and Russian Baroque styles. It’s reminiscent of the Summer Palace in St. Petersburg, and with good reason - they were designed by the same architect, Bartolomeo Rastrelli, who was also responsible for St. Andrew’s Church. The imperial family resided here during their visits to Kyiv, and now meetings with high-ranking foreign diplomats are held in the palace. As you return to Hrushevs’koho Street, the building on your right is the chamber of the Verkhovna Rada, the national parliament. Zoloti Vorota (Golden Gate) B-3, MZoloti Vo- St. Michael’s GoldenDomed Cathedral C-3, Mariins’kyi Palace Chernobyl tours National Museum of Chernobyl G-1, Khorevyi lane 1, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 417 54 27. This museum does an excellent job of actually making you feel like you are at the site of the infamous nuclear accident. Road signs from towns and villages near Chernobyl greet you as you ascend the stairs, and as you descend the signs are crossed out to signify your departure. It’s usually rather empty, but then again so is the contamination zone. Bring a big group and make the attendants show you the diorama and video. A few exhibits could be a bit scary for kids, such as life-sized costumes with gas masks and pictures of deformed animals. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission: 5Hr, students 1Hr. New Logic B-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 17/52 (Busi- ness-centre “Leonardo”) office 523 (floor 5), MTeatral’na, tel./fax 206 33 22, info@newlogic.ua, www.newlogic.ua. Bus city tour in English every Sat and Sun at 12 a.m. starting from Maidan Nezalezhnosti. More than 20 differrent excursions in English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Greek, Polish, Czech, Chinese, Japanese, Hungarian and Hebrew. Tours to CHERNOBYL Zone. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Mysterious Kyiv tel. 491 11 76, tour@interesniy. kiev.ua. Mysterious Kyiv propose exclusive tours on Secret Kyiv places, Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro, tours to Chernobyl Zone. Excursions in your language. 24, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 279 22 56 www.sophia. org.ua. Kyiv’s oldest church was built in 1037 by Prince Yaroslav the Wise - who was laid to rest inside - to commemorate the victory of the Kyivan Rus over the Pechenegs (an Asian nomadic tribe) and to glorify Christianity. It was named after St. Sophia’s Cathedral in Constantinople. This majestic 13-cupola sanctuary adjoined the Yaroslav’s Palace and became a holy place of worship for Kyivites as well as its political and cultural heart. With its interior of rich frescoes and mosaics, many of which are still intact almost a millennium later, St. Sophia’s made a huge impression on the ordinary worshippers of Kyiv. St. Sophia’s Cathedral C-3, Volodymyrs’ka bul’v., MUniversytet, tel. 235 03 62. The Cathedral was built from 1862-1882 in the so-called Russian pseudo-Byzantine style. The brilliant talent of V. Vasnetsov and M. Nesterov, the genius of M. Vrubel, the flying brush of V. Kotarbinskiy and other widelyknown artists made the cathedral a place of pilgrimage for aesthetes and a symbol of the power of new religious art. The wall-paintings of the cathedral remain unforgettable to this day. The cathedral belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox Church. St. Volodymyr’s Cathedral A-3, T. Shevchenka Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 54 What to see Lavra Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra J-5, Sichnevoho Povstannia 21, MArsenal’na, tel. 280 30 71, www.kplavra.kiev.ua. The monastery which made Kyiv the “Rome” of Orthodox Christianity and received pilgrims from all over Europe continues to attract droves of visitors today. Its territory of 28ha contains not only churches, towers and an underground cave system but also some of Kyiv’s most interesting museums. What to see Lavra Museums & Exhibitions Povstannia 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. 280 13 96. The Louvre, the Hermitage, or the Prado would be happy to have such a collection of Scythian gold. The gem of the collection is the Scythian queen’s neck adornment from the 4th century B.C. The 1.4-kilogram pectoral was made of pure gold by a master craftman of the time. Despite its very old age the well-preserved detailing is amazing. The second most important valuable is the silver bowl unearthed from the Gaiman Barrow and kept in a specially designed chamber filled with inert gas. This is far from all one can see in the nine halls of this museum. The treasures of Kyiv Rus, West-European and Jewish ceremonial silverware, and works by the best Ukrainian jewellers of the past and present can all be found here. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 12Hr, students and children 6Hr. 55 Museums Bulgakov Museum C-2, Andriivs'kyi uzviz 13, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 31 88. The celebrated Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived in this house from 1906-1916 and again from 1918-1919. It was here that he wrote the novel The White Guard and the play Days of Turbins. The old Bulgakov family home is now home to the Bulgakov Museum, which displays the author's personal things and family photos. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 5Hr. Mystetskyi Arsenal Sichnevoho Povstannia 28, tel. Museum of Historical Valuables J-5, Sichnevoho 254 50 86. The biggest modern art project in Ukraine. The total area of the future cultural centre will be over 70 thousand square meters. One art gallery is already open, and the whole Kyiv “Arsenal” factory is under reconstruction. It will be turned into the biggest museum complex in Ukraine. President Yuschenko’s goal is to turn this new cultural centre into the heart of the spiritual and historical life of Ukraine. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Ivan Honchar's Museum, Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art J-5, Sichnevoho Povstannia 29, MArsenal'na, tel. 573 92 68/288 92 53, www.honchar.org.ua. The Museum was founded in September 1993 and is based on Ivan Honchar’s (1911-1993) private collection. During the Soviet period he was accused of nationalism. All those who manifested interest in his collection were registered with the KGB. The collection represents the “Ukrainahood” of the 17-20th centuries and has 15 000 pieces. The center piece of Honchar’s collection are the folk pictures, the inventive hero “Mamai Cossack” is especially popular. Also impressive is the elaborate collection of clothes from the 18-19th centuries (2500 samples) as well as pottery art exhibits (630 plates, dishes, crockery and zoomorphic ceramic toys). QOpen 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, 3Hr for children. Kyiv Fortress Museum A-6, Hospital'na 24A, MPalats Sportu, tel. 235 01 46. This part of the city’s fortifications was built in 1844. Arguably, this structure’s history has more do with defenseless people rather than defending people. It was here that supporters of the Tsar carried out executions of political prisoners, including the leaders of a Polish rebellion, in the 1860s. At the beginning of the 20th century, participants in a revolt of the Kyiv Pioneer Regiment met the same fate. Also during this time, ammunition and weapons were stored in this semi-underground fortress with solid brick and stone walls.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri. Admission 3Hr. Museum of automobile history in models B-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v 1B, 234 22 15. This museum comprises two halls, over which more than 5000 model cars are displayed. There are models of the cars of the rich and famous, including Elvis’s pink Cadillac, John Paul II’s Popemobile, Tsar Nicolas II’s Russo–Balt, Kennedy’s Lincoln, Stalin’s ZIS, Hitler’s Mercedes and loads of cars from Soviet movies. There are also sports cars, fire engines and just about every automobile under the sun. Admission 15 Hr; kids under seven free. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. LPU 76 69. A large private collection of masterpieces of modern Ukrainian art - exactly what the state museums are lacking. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Museum of Russian Art A-4, Tereschenkivs’ka 9, MTeatral’na, tel. 234 62 18. Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, one of the largest collections of Russian art is housed here. The building belonged to the upper-class Tereschenko family and was built in the 1880s. Private artworks confiscated and nationalised by the Soviets along with the Tereschenkos’ holdings formed the bulk of the museum’s exhibits when it was opened in 1922. The most prized displays are a collection of exceptional Russian icons dating back to the late 13th century. The museum features artwork from many famous Russian painters such as I. Repin, M. Vrubel and N. Rerikh, as well as sculptures, handicraft and graphics. Kids should be kept on a tight rein as the staff can be rude if little people get too close to exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed, Thu. Admission 6Hr. National Art Museum C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 6, State Museum of Theatre, Music and Cinema Arts of Ukraine J-5, Sichnevoho Povstannia 21 (Lavra), First about the name - the Ukrainian ’pechera’ means ’cave’, while ’Lavra’ is an Orthodox term given to its largest monastery. Founded in 1051 by monks Antony and Feodosiy, the Lavra was called to spread the newly-adopted Christian religion throughout Kyivan Rus. Monks worshipped, lived and were buried in caves, where a cool and humid atmosphere enabled their bodies to mummify naturally. This apparent miracle further enhanced the monastery’s reputation. The monks’ bodies have been almost perfectly preserved to this day, a fact you can see yourself by descending into the caves with a candle to lead the way. Of particular interest are those monks so humble that they only allowed their feet to be exposed. Women are required to wear scarves, which are provided if you don’t have your own. English tours can be arranged at the ticket kiosk or with nice old ladies inside the entrance. The Lavra became a leading religious and cultural focal point of Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Studios for icon painting and the creation of mosaics served many Kyiv churches, and a scriptorium oversaw translating of foreign literature into Slavic. The influential Slavic history “The Chronicle of Bygone Years” was written here by the historian Nestor. Other notable features include the burial site of Yuri Dolgorukiy, the founder of Moscow, inside the Church of the Saviour of Berestovo; and the 18thcentury bell tower, the highest in all of Ukraine at 96m. Following years of Communist rule, the government has recently returned many buildings to the Orthodox Church. The monastery is once a gain operational in the form of Kyiv Theological Seminary and Academy. There are also many museums on th e territory, the best of which are listed below.QOpen 09:00 18:00. Admission for foreigner: adults 16Hr, children 8Hr. MArsenal’na, tel. 280 18 34. The museum was created in 1923. Here we can see the so-called ’vertep’ (the Ukrainian puppet theatre of the 18th century), playbills and pictures of the plays of different Ukrainian theatre troupes and the personal effects of famous artists and musicians. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission 6Hr, children and students 4Hr. State Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Art J-5, Sichnevoho Povstannia 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. 280 36 93. The original art of the Ukrainian people is widely represented here: icons, decorated eggs, embroidery, clothing, pottery, glass, faience, etc. There are special displays devoted to the work of the famous artists Katerina Bilokur and Mariya Prymachenko. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 5Hr, children and students 3Hr. Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Printing J-5, Sichnevoho Povstannia 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. 280 22 10. The museum is located in the space formerly occupied by the Lavra typography, which was built in the 18th century. The collection includes manuscript volumes from the times of Kyivan Rus, the first Ukrainian printed editions of the Lviv ’Apostle’ (1574) by Ivan Fedorov (Ukraine’s first printer), the ’Ostroh Bible’ as well as fine examples of old Ukrainian book illustrations and many other rare exhibits.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 5Hr, children and students2Hr. MMaidan Nezalezhosti, tel. 278 74 54. Built in the late 19th century in the style of a Greek temple with a six-column portico designed by Kyiv architects Horodets’kyi and Boytsov, valuable collections largely unknown to Western visitors are contained in the museum’s 21 galleries. Pieces include Ukrainian icons, paintings, and sculptures from the 14th century through the early 20th century. Works of revered artist and poet Taras Shevchenko, M.Pymonenko, K.Kostandi and H.Narbut are some of the highlights of the museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 6Hr. National History Museum C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 2, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 278 48 64. Located on a bluff above Andriivs’kyi uzviz, this museum carries forth on a wide range of topics concerning Ukraine’s history from prehistoric times up to the present day. There are extensive collections of old books, coins and bills, works of art and archaeological and ethnographical findings. Behind the museum is a path that leads to a wonderful view from Old Kyiv’s highest point overlooking the lower town of Podil. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 12Hr. Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collection D-1, Brats’ka 14, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 463 5, Arena Complex, Bessarabs’ka pl. 2, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 590 08 58, w w w. c-artpinchuk.org. PinchukArtCentre is one of the biggest contemporary art centres in the Eastern Europe. Among i ts main a c ti vi ti e s – exhibition running, cultural projects support, stipend granting to talented artists, etc. The first “New Space” exhibition, opened at PinchukArtCentre from 16th of September till 16th of December 2006, has been attended by 35 000 persons. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. PinchukArtCentre (Museum of Contemporary Art) B- The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Museum of Arts Exibition of Microminiatures by M.Syadrystyi J-5, Sicnevoho Povstannia 21(Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. 280 81 37, www.microart.kiev.ua. A world of wonder is presented for the visitors of this inimitable exhibition. The exhibits displayed here are so tiny that they can be seen only under the microscope. Every work of art is exceptionally unique and have been made by the craftsman M.Syadrystyi, Honorary Master of Ukrainian Folk Art. His creative art inspired the creation of a new world - “microminiature”. QOpen 9:30 - 13:30, 14:30 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10Hr, children 3Hr. A-4, Tereshchenkivs’ka 15-17, ML’va Tolstoho, tel./fax 235 02 06, www.khanenkomuseum.kiev.ua. The house was owned by a famous collector of art and benefactor Bohdan Khanenko (1849-1917), and his wife Varvara (1852-1922). In 1919, on the base of their private collection, a museum was opened in this house. For a long period of time it was known as Kyiv State Museum of Western and Eastern Art. Now its initial name has been given back. The embellishments of the collection are works of outstanding Renaissance masters. Rich diversity of genres distinguishes the museum’s holdings of North European countries. The exposition of Spanish art includes two true gems from the XVII century - “Portrait of Infant Margarita” by Diego Velasquez and “Still Life with Chocolate Milk” by Juan de Zurbaran. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 7.50Hr, English tours 150Hr by appointment (group of 10-25 people). Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 56 What to see The Museum of Hetmanship D-1, Spas’ka 16A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 16 13. More than 2000 exhibits are on permanent display in four halls. The museum also hosts special, limited-time exhibitions. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri. Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination, which is quite annoying. Connections involving fixed line telephones are often bad, sometimes incorporating another conversation into yours or going dead in mid-conversation. Mobile phones are already very popular, and the internet is getting there. MaIL & Phones 57 The One Street Museum C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 2B, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 03 98. This fascinating little museum near the bottom of Andriivs’kyi uzviz tells the rich history of this important street through the years. Special attention is paid to recreating the atmosphere of this thoroughfare during the turn of the 20th century. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3Hr. Post Folk Architecture and Life Museum Pyrohovo, from MLybids’ka: trolleybus 11 or marshrutka 172; from Republican Stadium metro station: marshrutka 156 (+15); from MAkademmistechko: marshrutka 576; from MLukyanivs’ka marshrutka 496(19+9), tel. 526 55 42. There is a place in Kyiv where you can say “Let’s go to the 16th century Carpathians” and then find yourself there in a matter of minutes. No…we’re not offering you a ride in Doc Brown’s Delorean time machine. It’s Pyrohovo - a picturesque open-air museum of old Ukrainian lifestyle and folk culture. The museum is divided into areas representing different regions of Ukraine. The clay huts roofed with thatch or wooden shingles and the archaic barns and wells recreate an authentic village atmosphere. Everything is meant to bring you back to the Ukraine of 16th to 19th centuries. At Pyrohovo you will find wooden churches, windmills, and even a school building typical of rural areas from recent centuries. Different kinds of structures (water-mills, forges, cattle-sheds “shopa”, granaries “komora”, threshing floors, “stodola” for storing cereals, apiaries, hen houses, cellars and wells) will tell you the story of how folks lived in Ukraine centuries ago. If everything at the museum seems very authentic, that’s because it really is. Most of the buildings are in fact original and were moved here piece by piece from villages all over Ukraine. From the main entrance, the road leads you across a large wheat field to the Middle Prydniprovia sector with the Church of the Great Martyn, Saint Paraskeva Friday (Cherkassy region, 1742), the small Church of the Archangel Michael (1601), and a unique collection of windmills “vitriaky”. Next, on the hillside, you will come to the Podillia sector with the Church of Saint Nicholas and a bell tower from the beginning of the 19th century, brought here from the Husiatyn area. At the centre of the museum’s territory the Poltavschyna and Slobozhanschyna complex is arranged. A little farther on, visitors can see the Polissye sector dominated by the unique hip-roof Voskresens’ka Church (Rivnenschyna, 17th-18th century). The exposition of village huts (khatas) here is unique for their age (1587 to 1687). In the northern part of the museum, the Carpathian sector features scattered small farms, with the bell tower of the ancient Pokrovs’ka Church rising above. But wait till you get inside these huts! There you will find stunning exhibitions of traditional Ukrainian clothing, ceramics, household and farming equipment, and of course the stove. This was the centrepiece of any khata, and was used for cooking, drying, heating and even sleeping. Pyrohovo is also a great park - a pleasant retreat with plenty of space for playing games with kids or for a leisurely afternoon in the shade of trees. If you want to get around faster, you may rent a bike or even hire a horseback ride. And if you care for your spiritual well-being, visit the church service on Sunday. Held in one of the museum’s beautiful ancient wooden churches, it is a real adventure for your soul. Traditional fairs are organised at Pyrohovo in May and September, to mark the beginning and the end of the season. But don’t worry if you miss them. There are plenty of festivals and celebrations going on at Pyrohovo the whole season. Main national and religious holidays are celebrated here according to folk traditions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 15Hr. English-speaking guides available. The Pharmacy Museum D-2, Prytys’ko-Mykils’ka 7, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 24 37. You may be wondering just how much enjoyment can be had out of a museum whose sole subject is the history of pharmaceuticals, but when you think of the vital role drugs play in the lives of the capitals legions of cold sufferers it becomes clear that this cosy little museum is a must of social history. The building is in great condition and dates back to 1728. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission 7Hr, 5Hr for children. Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 065, www.poshta.kiev.ua. Kyiv’s main post office can’t be missed. The Poshtamt (поштамт) is on a corner of Maidan Nezalezhnosti opposite the tall monument. A myriad of windows as well as colourful pictures of city landmarks await in the main hall straight ahead. The less intimidating hall to the right offers a wide selection of postcards and hosts a 24-hour Internet café upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Central Post Office Public internet access Bunker Computer Club A-1, Artema 11A, tel. 272 48 60, www.bunker.kiev.ua. 02:00 - 8:00 6Hr/h, 09:00 - 18:00 6Hr/h, Sat, Sun 3Hr/h, 18:00 - 02:00 7Hr/h, 26 PCs, intranet. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Postal rates Letters (<20g) 1,00Hr S 2,48Hr S 3,34Hr A S Surface mail A Air mail Within Ukraine Abroad Postcards 1,00Hr S 2,48Hr S 3,34Hr A The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine C-3, Desiatynna 12, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 278 83 08. This museum is the first private art museum in Ukraine. In the bright spacious halls more than 300 inspiring works of Ukrainian icon-painters of 15th-19th centuries are presented. All of Ukraine’s regions are represented in more than 100 iconographical images and themes. Fifty of the world-renowned Ukrainian painter Maria Prymachenko’s best works are also on display. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 15Hr, for children and students 5Hr. 4), Klovs’kyi uzviz 8, MKlovs’ka, tel. 253 54 00. This museum is located on the ground floor of the State Centre of the Out-ofSchool Education. The first hall has collections of hand made dolls from a variety of fairy tales; the second hall has authentic Ukrainian dolls; and the third one presents Ukrainian history through the dolls’ history. The oldest dolls in the collection were made in the 1930s; the youngest were made just recently. Do not miss the first Ukrainian transformer among the collection of 10,000 toys. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PT Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 065/279 91 92, fax 278 79 69, www. poshta.kiev.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Vault 13 Computer Club G-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 19, ML’va Tolstoho. Internet 09:00 - 23:00 3Hr/h, 23:00 - 09:00 2Hr/h, Fri, Sat 3 Hr/h. Consultation 12Hr/h. Printing, scanning. 60 PCs, intranet. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Express mail DHL Vasyl’kivs’ka 1, MLybids’ka, tel. 490 26 00/258 25 00/258 17 66, www.dhl.com.ua. Express-centres: Business-centre “Kyiv-Donbass“ Pushkins’ka 42/4, 1st floor M L’va Tolstoho, tel. 490 26 00; Travel Company “SAM“ Ivana Franka 40B, M Universytet tel. 238 69 85/238 69 51; QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Federal Express Kikvidze 44, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. 495 20 20, fax 495 20 39, w w w.fedex.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. TNT Moskovs’kyi prosp. 28A, MPetrivka, tel. 207 07 70, fax 207 07 80, www.tnt.com. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A UPS H-4, Mechnykova 20, MKlovs’ka, tel. 280 00 00, fax 280 10 19, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ISPs DiaWest O.Telihy 8, MDorohozhychi, tel. 455 66 55, www.diawest.com. Technical support tel. 451 46 66. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Toys museum C-6 (H- IP Telecom I-6, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 34, office 208, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. 238 89 88, www.iptelecom. net.ua. Technical support tel. 238 89 88. QOpen 09:00 20:00. Closed Sun. Mobile phones There are 2 types of mobile phone numbers in Kyiv: direct numbers (which do not differ from the Kyiv fixed line numbers, and may be dialed as such), and mobile numbers (these should be preceded by 8 and the operator’s code). SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to use the local provider’s service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same places. Express mail rates Comparative rates for sending a package maximum 500g. Frankfurt London DHL 330Hr 330Hr TNT 353Hr 353Hr FedEx 240Hr 240Hr UPS 382Hr 382Hr weighing a New York 330Hr 403Hr 245Hr 400Hr 1C, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 53 33. Anyone strolling through Khreschatyi Park (above European Square and The Philharmonic) will notice the two towers rising above the tree line. They host a museum of water, which contains information on water resources: natural water circulation, potable water purification, new technologies and water’s chemical components. Entering the centre you descend in an elevator to a depth of 20 meters and are confronted by fascinating exhibits. Admission adults 15Hr, children and students 10Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Water Information Centre C-4, M.Hrushevs'koho Beeline V.Khvoiky 15/15, MTarasa Shevchenka, tel. 8 800 30 101 30, www.beeline.ua. Fax & telegram Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 065/279 91 92, fax 278 79 69, www. poshta.kiev.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Golden Telecom C-4, Khreschatyk 19A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 490 50 00, www.goldentele.com. KyivStar GSM I-4, Sichnevoho Povstannia 24, MArsenal’na, tel. 466 04 66/466 24 66, www.kyivstar.net. 54 33, fax 463 70 56, www.life.com.ua. 230 02 56, www.mts.com.ua. Life E-6, Solom’yans’ka 11A, MVokzal’na, tel. 8 800 50  The Kyiv telephone code is +380 44 MTS Leiptsyz’ka 15, MArsenal’na, tel. 240 00 00, fax Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 58 MaIL & Phones Using a telephone Fixed line telephone To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a long-distance telephone call, dial 8, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 8, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code (044) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 8, wait for the tone, and then dial 10 plus the country code, city code and number itself. GettInG arounD Laptop login Wi-Fi There are now a number of places in Kyiv which provide Wi-Fi connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for the Wi-Fi symbol in our guide. The service is free at a few hotels and restaurants, but usually the connection costs around 10Hr per hour. To access paid Wi-Fi connections, buy a prepaid card (worth 10, 20, 24, or 50Hr, usually good for one month from the day of activation). You can buy the cards at the reception stands in the hotels and at bars and restaurants. GPRS & 3G There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offering GPRS & 3G service. You need to have a GPRScompatible telephone or modem (USB modems cost approximately 800-900Hr) to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards of GPRS standard can be found at any one of the service centres mentioned below. The same service centres can also refill your account and help with setting up a connection to the Internet. MTS Leiptsiz’ka 15, 240 00 00 People.net Velyka Vasyl’kivs’ka 18, 8 800 30 303 30 Utel Moskovs’ka 23A, 8 800 500 1188 59 Car rental 502 20 14, www.avis.com.ua. Also at Boryspil Airport, terminal B, tel. 591 69 55.QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Elite Cars - Professional chauffeur services. C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 21, office 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 331 51 31, fax 278 63 99, info@elitecar.com.ua, www.elitecar.com.ua. Chauffeur services in Ukraine, Kyiv-Airport transfer, on-line booking, credit card payment. Business-class, executive’s class, minibuses, limousines. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Europcar C-5, Gorkoho 48A, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 238 26 91, fax 238 26 92, ua@europcar.relc. com, www.europcar.ua. Car and minivan rental. Chauffeur service is available. Q A Grata Car Rental C-3, Mykhailivs'kiy prov. 9A, office 3, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 451 53 77, fax 238 26 03, service@rent-a-car.kiev.ua, www.rent-a-car.kiev.ua. Car and minibus rental. Chauffeur service in Kyiv and Ukraine, airport transfer, credit card payment. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Hertz Rent a Car Zdolbunivs'ka 7D, MPozniaky, tel. 492 32 70, fax 492 32 73, www.hertz.ua. Rental of cars and minivans. One-way rentals. Chauffeur available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A BREEZE Chauffeur Drive Service +380 50 44 001 44. High quality service, English speaking drivers. Q A New Logic C-4, Khmelnytskoho 17/52, off. 523, Business-centre “Leonardo”, MTeatral'na, tel./fax 206 22 00, info@newlogic.ua, www.newlogic.ua. CARS, MINIVANS, BUSES rental with driver for transfers, business trips or excursions around Kyiv and Ukraine. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Sixt E-3, Dmytrievs’ka 46, MVokzal’na, tel. 490 81 58, www.sixt.ua. Service is available within Kyiv and Ukraine. Cross border rental is not available. Minimal rental period 24 hrs. Q A Smart: Low Cost Car Rental , tel. 491 84 24/8 067 230 38 38, www.smart-car-rent.kiev.ua. This is the definitive Kyiv Car Rental Directory. You can check all rental offers in one place, read customer reviews and make online reservations. Q A Avis Yams’ka 72, MLybids’ka, tel. 502 20 10, fax Ukrainian city codes Cherkasy Chernihiv Chernivtsi Donetsk Kharkiv Kherson Khmelnytsky 047 Kirovohrad 052 Sevastopol 069 046 Kyiv 037 Luhansk 062 Lviv 057 Odesa 055 Poltava 038 Rivne 044 Simferopol 065 064 Sumy 033 Ternopil 032 Uzhhorod 051 Vinnitsa 054 035 031 043 Dnipropetrovsk 056 Lutsk Ivano-Frankivsk 034 Mykolaiv 048 Zaporizhya 061 053 Zhytoymyr 041 036 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an “8” if dialing from another Ukrainian town. International country codes Australia Austria Belgium Bulgaria Canada Denmark Finland France 61 43 32 1 45 33 Germany Greece Hungary Israel Japan 49 30 36 Poland Romania Russia 48 40 7 34 46 90 380 44 1 359 Ireland 353 Spain 972 Sweden 39 81 Turkey Ukraine USA International bus schedule From Kyiv Dep. Arr. 08:30 08:30 08:30 09:30 08:15 05:45 08:15 08:00 08:15 18:00 10:00 18:00 08:30 11:00 09:30 20:30 08:30 13:30 08:30 11:00 09:30 13:00 17:00 13:30 08:15 15:45 09:30 19:30 08:00 17:00 19:00 12:30 18:30 14:40 08:30 11:45 19:40 07:50 To Kyiv Dep. Arr. (2,4,6) BERLIN (KG) (2,5,7) 16:00 15:00 (3,7) BERLIN (KG) (3,7) 17:05 15:00 (1) BARCELONA (EL) (5) 21:00 19:00 (1,4,6) DRESDEN (KG) (2,4,7) 16:00 17:00 (3,7) DUSSELDORF (KG) (3,6) 08:00 15:00 (4) FRANKFURT (EV) (7) 12:00 19:30 (2,4,6) HAMBURG (KG) (2,5,7) 12:30 15:00 (3,6) HAMBURG (KR) (2,6) 10:00 23:00 (3,7) HANNOVER (KG) (3,6) 13:05 15:00 (1,4,7) LEIPZIG (KG) (2,4,7) 14:00 17:00 (3,6) LEIPZIG (KR) (2,6) 18:00 22:00 (3,7)LONDON (UN) (1,4) 14:30 10:15 (1) MADRID (EL) (4) 09:30 20:00 (3,6) MUNICH (KR) (2,6) 13:00 22:00 (1,4,6) MUNICH (KG) (2,4,7) 09:00 17:00 (1,2,4-7) RIGA (EC) (1,2,4-7) 16:00 10:00 (3,6) TALLINN (EC) (1, 5) 11:50 09:00 (5) VALENCIA (EL) (5) 13:30 19:00 (2-7) VILNIUS (EC) (2-7) 22:00 10:10 City Czech Rep. 420 Italy 358 Moldova 373 UK Netherlands 31 The above International country codes should be prefixed with “8-10” if dialing from inside Ukraine. Roaming Long-distance buses Central Bus Station Moskovs’ka pl. 3, MLybids’ka, tel. 525 57 74. The central bus station (центральний автовокзал) is right in the cement mixer of one of Kyiv’s most maddening reconstruction projects on Moskovs’ka ploscha and will remain that way for an indefinite period of time. In spite of the chaos, international and domestic buses continue to arrive and depart. Sadly, the station itself will not be getting a much needed facelift. Although the timetable for arrivals and departures, which is hung according to geographic direction, is in a few different languages don’t count on getting an answer in English from the information desk. At the ticket window (каса) you may purchase tickets to various European destinations - even London. Go to the web site www.bus.com.ua for essential information about existing routes and current route status. It is also possible to make reservations via the site for the few destinations designated by a red tick. If you take advantage of this service don’t forget to specify a desired seat. Alas! The web site is in Russian only. Ecolines C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 16, office 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 27 42/279 24 62, ecolines@ecolines. ua, www.ecolines.ua. Also at: Druzhby Narodiv bul'v. 5, tel. 528 82 22. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. P To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +38 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code. Taxis In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered taxis don’t exist, so you’ll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. EL - Express A Limited; EV - Eurovoyage; KR - KRAFT Reisen; KG - Kyi Grand; EC - Ecolines. BREEZE Chauffeur Drive Service +380 50 44 001 44. High quality service, English speaking drivers, credit cards accepted. EvroTaxi 249 40 40 DeltaTaxi 501 65 01 Kyiv Taxi 502 02 02 Limusin 502 08 08 Express A Limited , tel. 332 46 95/494 22 11, express-a.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Kiy-Grand E-3, Zlatoustivs’ka 20, office 3, MVokzal’na, tel. 486 59 08, www.avtobus.kiev.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. Kraft Reisen Gmbh E-3, Zlatoustivs’ka 35, MUniversytet, tel. 486 87 31, fax 486 98 29. Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 60 GettInG arounD International train schedule From Kyiv City Dep. Arr. 17:36 22:38 ( 2,3,5,7) ASTANA (2,4,6,7) 06:20 22:33 (5) BAKU (1) 09:53 20:43 (1-7) BELGRADE (1-7) 08:00 07:30 (1-7) BERLIN (1-7) 23:58 05:30 (2,3,5,6,7) BRATISLAVA (1,2,4,5,7) 09:53 09:47 (1-7) BUDAPEST (1-7) 15:40 19:30 (1-7) BUHAREST (1-7) 08:35 23:6 (1-7) CHISINAU (1-7) 22:41 13:50 ( 2,4,6) KRAKOW (3,5,7) 20:42 15:45 ( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 08:00 20:14 (1-7) LUBLIN (1-7) 18:18 06:01 (1-7) MINSK (1-7) 20:09 06:36 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 21:17 10:58 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 19:07 09:00 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 08:00 02:48 (1-7) POZNAN (1-7) 20:42 06:41 (1-7) PRAGUE (1-7) 20:42 09:36 (1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7) 01:55 13:32 (1-7) SOFIA (1-7) 09:35 10:44 (1-7) ST.-PETERSBURG (1-7) 13:10 06:45 (1-7) WARSAW (1-7) 08:00 23:19 (1-7) WARSAW (1-7) 20:42 20:27 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 23:58 06:58 (2,3,5,6,7) VIENNA (1,2,4,5,7) 09:53 07:04 (7) VENICE (3) 09:53 22:22 (2,4,6,7) ZAGREB (2,5,6,7) To Kyiv Dep. Arr. 12:10 09:52 23:30 16:15 06:45 20:00 21:13 22:52 13:47 20:00 18:15 06:38 23:00 21:28 13:05 09:14 20:50 23:23 21:39 20:23 02:08 21:24 19:24 02:01 21:20 21:05 06:00 08:15 11:28 21:40 07:20 20:00 09:29 12:51 14:28 10:21 22:52 08:50 08:00 09:59 07:47 22:52 10:21 10:21 13:24 20:20 14:40 22:52 10:21 20:00 20:00 20:00 GettInG arounD Austrian Airlines A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 289 20 32/289 20 33/289 20 34, fax 490 34 94, www.aua.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. British Airways A-3, B.Khmelnyts'koho 48B, 6th floor, MUniversytet, tel. 585 50 50, fax 585 50 51, www. ba.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Finnair A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 6, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 247 57 77, fax 247 57 79, www.finnair. com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. KLM A-3, Ivana Franka 34/33, 2nd floor, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 490 24 90, fax 495 24 06, www.klm.ua. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Lufthansa A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 52, MUniversytet, tel. 490 38 00, fax 490 38 01, www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A New Logic C-4, Khmelnytskoho 17/52, off. 523, Business-centre “Leonardo”, MTeatral'na, tel./fax 206 22 00, info@newlogic.ua, www.newlogic.ua. AIR TICKETS for domestic and international flights. Q Open: 09:00-18:00, Closed Sat, Sun (Mykhailivs'ka 6A); Open: 09:00-21:00 (Globus shopping mall). A Swiss International Air Lines A-5, Chervonoarmiys'ka 9/2, office 53, 2nd floor, ML'va Tolstoho, tel. 490 65 00, www.swiss.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Ukraine International Airlines B-3, Lysenka 4 (central ticket office), MUniversytet, tel. 581 50 50, www.flyuia.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Universal Flights Sales Agency B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 13, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 206 75 76, www.ufsa.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 61 Airports Boryspil State International Airport , tel. 281 72 43/281 76 90, www.airport-borispol.kiev.ua. Boryspil lies 34km east of the city. Buses and minivans departing roughly every 30 minutes from in front of the Southern Train Station make the trip in an hour or so for a fare of 30Hr - but the schedule can be erratic. Taxis from the centre cost about 150Hr and take from 30 to 45 minutes. Inside the airport, a bar near passport control offers internet access. Check-in is quick, giving you more than enough time to visit the two bars and one duty-free shop in the cavernous departure lounge. Kyiv (Zhulyany) Airport Povitroflots'kyi prosp. 92, tel. 242 23 08/242 23 09, www.airport.kiev.ua. Just 8km from Kyiv's centre, Zhulyany can be reached by taxi for 40Hr in 20 minutes. Trolleybus N°9 will take you there in 30-40 minutes from Southern Train Station. Extremely inconsistent shuttle buses run between Zhulyany and Boryspil with intervals from 30 minutes to two hours. Airline ticket offices 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. AeroSvit A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 7A, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 490 34 90, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. Air Baltic A-3, B.Khmel'nyts'koho 52, MUniversytet, tel. 238 26 49/238 26 68, fax 238 62 71, www.airbaltic.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Alitalia - Linee Aeree Italiane A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 9/2, of. 30, ML'va Tolstoho, tel. 492 72 22/390 90 93, www.alitalia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Aeroflot F-4, Saksahans'koho 112A, MVokzal'na, tel. 241 99 98, fax 245 48 81, www.aeroflot.ru. QOpen Domestic train schedule From Kyiv City To Kyiv Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 18:00 20:30 (1-7) CHERNIHIV (1-7) 06:16 09:08 18:21 09:34 (1-7) CHERNIVTSI (1-7) 16:55 08:04 07:00 12:45 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK (1-7) 17:15 23:00 23:12 07:05 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK (1-7) 22:45 06:54 19:21 07:10 (1-7) DONETSK (1-7) 19:10 07:01 06:33 12:28 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 07:05 12:55 21:44 10:15 (1-7) KHERSON (1-7) 20:36 09:20 06:35 11:00 (1-7) KHMELNYTSKIY (1-7) 04:20 08:50 22:06 08:00 (1,3,4,7) LVIV (1,2,4,5) 19:35 06:17 22:20 06:34 (1-7) LVIV (1-7) 22:47 07:23 18:39 09:57 (1-7) LUHANSK (1-7) 16:35 08:06 19:03 05:55 (1-7) MYKOLAIV (1-7) 19:23 05:30 09:30 17:41 (1-7) ODESSA (1-7) 11:47 20:13 22:59 08:48 (1-7) ODESSA (1-7) 23:08 08:33 17:51 08:45 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 14:34 05:51 20:21 13:06 (1-7) SEVASTOPOL (1-7) 14:52 08:44 18:15 11:37 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 15:55 09:58 Wizz Air tel. 206 48 88, www.wizzair.com. carpatair.com, w w w.carpatair. com. Carpatair chosen to fly to/from Kyiv Zhulyany airport the “Kyiv City Airport” located very close and conveniently to city centre. Please do not confuse with the other airport - Boryspil, about 35 km away from the city. Carpatair kiev@ Domestic flight schedule From Kyiv Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 14:15 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 14:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 19:20 1 2 – – 5 – – 13:40 – – 3 4 – – 7 05:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:45 1 2 – – 5 – – 09:20 – – 3 – – 6 7 19:15 Arr. 15:55 10:00 15:30 15:30 09:50 15:45 10:15 23:15 10:15 16:30 20:30 15:00 06:55 12:10 10:45 11:20 20:10 10:45 20:40 City DNIPROPETROVS’K (VV) DNIPROPETROVS’K (PS) DONETS’K (VV) DONETS’K (PS) IVANO-FRANKIVS’K (PS) KHARKIV (VV) KHARKIV (PS) LUHANSK (PS) LUHANSK (PS) LVIV (VV) LVIV (PS) LVIV (WU) LVIV (WU) ODESA (VV) ODESA (PS) SIMFEROPOL (VV) SIMFEROPOL (PS) SIMFEROPOL (WU) SIMFEROPOL (WU) To Kyiv Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 07:00 1 2 – – 5 – – 20:05 – – 3 4 – – 7 07:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:20 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 21:10 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 11:30 – – 3 – – 6 7 21:35 Arr. 11:00 20:00 17:50 16:30 18:55 19:20 20:40 20:10 08:05 19:15 08:05 21:15 08:25 19:20 19:50 18:50 22:35 13:00 23:05 Trains Central/Southern Train Station E-4, Vokzal’na pl. 1, MVokzal’na, tel. 465 21 11, www.pz.gov.ua. Large departure and arrival schedules are on the walls in both stations. More schedule and ticket information can be accessed using computers that look like ATMs in the main halls. Windows N°40 and 41 for foreigners and international trains are located in the southern station. Almost all trains contain three classes: SV, two-person compartments; coupe, four-person compartments; and platskart, harder beds and no compartments. Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 62 GettInG arounD International flight schedule From Kyiv To Kyiv Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 17:00 AMSTERDAM (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:45 13:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:20 19:30 AMSTERDAM (KL) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 16:25 1 – 3 – – – – 13:45 16:25 ATHENS (VV) 1 – 3 – – – – 17:20 20:05 – – 3 – – – – 09:35 12:25 BARCELONA (PS) – – 3 – – – – 13:15 17:55 – – – – – 6 – 15:50 18:40 BARCELONA (PS) – – – – – 6 – 19:25 00:05 1 – 3 – – 6 – 13:55 04:30 BEIJING(VV) 1 – 3 – – 6 – 06:30 09:45 – 2 – – – – 13:40 16:40 BELGRADE (VV) – 2 – – – – – 17:40 20:40 1 2 – 4 5 – 7 16:30 17:35 BERLIN (PS) 1 2 – 4 5 – 7 18:35 21:35 1 – 3 – – – – 07:30 09:30 BRUSSELS (PS) 1 – 3 – – – – 10:25 14:20 – – – 4 5 – 7 16:10 18:10 BRUSSELS (PS) – – – 4 5 – 7 18:55 22:50 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 17:40 19:20 BUCHAREST (V) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 20:00 21:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:10 16:55 BUDAPEST (MA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:50 15:25 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 14:45 16:40 COLOGNE (W6) from January 3 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 17:10 20:50 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 16:15 18:05 DORTMUND (W6) from January 4 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 18:30 22:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:05 16:55 DUSSELDORF (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:35 14:15 1 – 3 4 – 6 7 08:20 10:05 FRANKFURT/MAIN (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:20 14:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:05 15:50 FRANKFURT/MAIN (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:50 13:15 – – 3 4 – 6 7 12:55 14:35 HUMBURG (VV) – – 3 4 – 6 7 15:25 19:00 1 – 3 – 5 – – 13:45 15:45 HELSINKI (PS) 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 16:40 18:40 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 13:15 15:20 HELSINKI (PS) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 10:30 12:25 1 – – 4 5 – 7 11:30 13:35 ISTANBUL (TK) 1– – 4 5 – 7 08:30 10:30 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 18:45 19:30 KATOWICE/KRAKOW (W6) from January 3 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 20:00 22:30 – 2 – – 5 – – 17:40 20:40 LISBON (PS) – 2 – – 5 – 7 22:20 05:05 – 2 – – 5 – – 15:30 16:40 LJUBLJANA (PS) – 2 – – 5 – – 11:35 14:40 – – – – – – 7 16:20 17:30 LJUBLJANA (PS) – – – – – – 7 12:25 15:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 10:30 LONDON - Gatwick (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:30 16:50 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:15 15:55 LONDON - Heathrow (BA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:05 13:25 1 – – – 5 – 7 18:40 20:10 LONDON - Luton (W6) from December 17 1 – – – 5 – 7 13:00 18:00 – 2 – 4 – 6 – 07:40 11:20 MADRID (PS) – 2 – 4 – 6 – 12:20 17:40 1 – 3 – 5 – 16:20 18:15 MILAN (PS) 1 – 3 – 5 – 19:15 23:00 – 2 – 4 – 6 7 11:35 13:25 MILAN (AZ) – 2 – 4 – 6 7 07:00 10:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 09:35 MOSCOW - Sheremetyevo (VV) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:35 11:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:15 15:55 MOSCOW - Sheremetyevo (VV) 1 2 3 4 5 – – 17:05 17:45 1 2 3 4 5 – – 18:55 21:30 MOSCOW - Sheremetyevo (VV) 1 2 – 4 5 6 – 07:00 07:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:10 18:40 MUNICH (LH) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:05 16:20 – 2 – 4 5 – 7 12:55 16:35 NEW YORK (VV) – 2 – 4 5 – 7 18:35 11:25 1 2 – 4 – 6 – 12:10 16:05 NEW YORK (DL) 1 – 3 – 5 – 7 17:35 10:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:30 09:00 PARIS (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:05 14:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:30 14:45 PARIS (AF) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:35 11:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:30 19:45 PARIS (AF) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 16:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:25 16:20 PRAGUE (OK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:25 14:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:05 22:45 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:40 20:15 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:15 20:15 ROMA (AZ) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:30 17:25 1 2 – 4 5 – 7 08:00 09:50 ROMA (PS) 1 2 – 4 5 – 7 10:50 14:40 1 – 3 – – – – 07:20 10:20 S-PETERSBURG (VV) 1 – 3 – – – – 11:20 12:20 – – – 4 – 6 – 14:20 17:20 S-PETERSBURG (VV) – – – 4 – 6 – 18:20 19:20 – 2 – – – – – 13:40 15:35 SOFIA (VV) – 2 – – – – – 16:35 20:40 – – – – 5 – – 07:35 09:40 SOFIA (VV) – – – – 5 – – 10:30 12:35 – – – 4 – 6 7 12:55 14:25 STOCKHOLM (VV) – – – 4 – 6 7 15:15 18:40 1 – 3 – – 6 – 07:10 08:40 STOCKHOLM (VV) 1 – 3 – – 6 – 09:25 12:50 1 – 3 – 5 – – 15:50 17:40 TALLIN (OV) 1 – 3 – 5 – – 13:15 15:05 1 2 3 4 – – – 19:10 23:55 TBILISI (PS) – 2 3 4 5 – – 05:00 05:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:50 17:10 TEL AVIV (VV) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:15 11:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:15 08:10 TIMISOARA (V) 1 2 3 4 5 6 – 15:00 16:45 – 2 – – – – 7 13:05 17:00 TORONTO (VV) – 2 – – – – 7 18:50 11:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00 09:00 VIENNA (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 17:45 20:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:10 16:20 VIENNA (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:45 13:15 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 11:15 13:30 VIENNA (OS) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 07:25 10:30 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 20:45 22:05 VILNIUS (TE) 1 2 3 4 5 – 7 18:40 19:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:35 15:10 WARSAW (LO) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:05 13:40 1 – 3 – 5 6 – 08:50 09:35 WARSAW (VV) 1 – 3 – 5 6 – 10:25 13:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:20 11:10 ZURICH (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:10 15:45 Airline Codes: AF – Air France, AZ – AlItalia, BA– British Airways PLC, BT– Air Baltic, DL – Delta Airlines, FV– Pulkovo, KL– Klm Royal GettInG arounD 63 Dutch Airline, LH– Lufthansa, LO– LOT Polish Airlines, MA – Malev Hungarian Airlines, OK– Czech Airlines, OS– Austrian Airlines, OV– Estonian Air, PS– Ukrainian International Airlines, S7 – Siberia Airlines, SU – Aeroflot, UF – Ukrainian Mediterranean Airlines, TE – Lithuanian Airlines, TK – Turkish Airlines, UN– Transaero, V– Carpatair, VV – AeroSvit, WU, W6 - WizzAir. Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 64 GettInG arounD Travel agencies Alvona C-3, Sofiis‘ka 16/16 office 3, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 206 14 10/230 47 12, vip@alvona.kiev.ua, www.alvona.com. Service: booking apartments and hotels, individual and group tours, transportation and transfers, organization of conferences and presentations, translations and guide services, weekend tours, trips on the Dnipro river on yahts and boats, corporate parties and picnics. Also at: Odessa Pushkins‘ka 8, tel. 777 25 50. Odessa telephone code is +38(048), avia@alvona.com Arktur A-5, vul. Esplanadna 4, office 107, MPalats Sportu, tel. 490 71 37, fax 490 71 38, www.arktur.ua. Established in 1994, this tour operator provides a western standard of service for incoming tourists and businesspeople scouting Ukrainian corporate and financial markets. Aktur specializes in hotel reservations throughout Ukraine, visa support, transportation services, air/train ticket reservations, social and cultural tour programs, corporate and incentive travel for groups, excursions to the Black Sea, river cruises in Russia and Ukraine, conferences and seminars. New Logic B-4, B.Khmel‘nyts‘koho 17/52, Businesscentre “Leonardo”, office 523 (floor 5), MTeatral‘na, tel./fax 206 22 00, info@newlogic.ua, www.newlogic. ua. New Logic offers incoming travel services in Kyiv and all over Ukraine. This is a one-stop shop for visa support, airport pickups and transfers, accommodation at 3*-5* hotels and luxury apartments. New Logic also arranges guides and interpreters in English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, Greek, Polish, Czech, Chinese, Japanese, Hungarian and Hebrew. Group and individual tours arranged, including hunting tours and trips to Chernobyl. Domestic and international air ticket service, train tickets and car rental. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A ForeIGn rePresentatIons Free Downloads There’s far more to In Your Pocket than this print version of our latest guide. Covering 50 cities across Europe, In Your Pocket also offers the vast majority of its guides for free download, in PDF. A number of guides are now also available as post-PDF, iPaper documents. Visit our website at inyourpocket.com for the full list of available downloads. Afghanistan E-6, Chervonozorianyi prosp. 42, tel./fax 270 13 94. Algeria A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 64, tel. 486 70 79, fax 486 70 08. Argentina G-5, Fedorova 12, 6th floor, tel./fax 238 69 22. Armenia B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 45, tel. 234 90 05, fax 234 43 55. Australia F-4, Kominterna 18/137, tel./fax 235 75 86. Austria A-3, Ivana Franka 33, tel. 277 27 90, fax 230 23 52. Azerbaijan E-2, Hlybochits’ka 24, tel. 484 69 40, fax 484 69 46. Belarus A-3, M. Kotsiubyns’koho 3, tel. 537 52 00, fax 537 52 13. Belgium A-4, Leontovycha 4, tel. 238 26 00, fax 238 26 01. Bolivia Frunze 85, tel. 239 46 31, fax 531 96 44. Brasil I-4, Suvorova 14/12, tel. 280 63 01, fax 280 95 68. Bulgaria A-6, Hospytal’na 1, tel. 246 76 72/246 72 37, fax 235 51 19. Canada B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 31, tel. 590 31 00, fax 590 31 09. Columbia B-5, Khreschatyk 50 V, tel. 234 10 63, fax 279 14 03. Croatia A-1, Artema 51/50, tel. 486 56 62, fax 484 69 43. Cuba A-1, Bekhterevs’kyi prov. 5, tel. 486 57 43/486 71 13, fax 486 19 07. Cyprus E-3, Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, tel. 486 36 05, fax 484 03 93. Czech B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 34A, tel. 272 04 31, fax 272 62 04. Egypt B-2, Observatorna 19, tel. 272 13 27/486 65 30, fax 486 94 28. Estonia A-4, Volodymyrs’ka 61/11, tel. 590 07 80, fax 590 07 81. Finland B-3, Strilets’ka 14, tel. 278 70 49, fax 278 20 32. France B-3, Reytars’ka 39, tel. 590 36 00, fax 590 36 30. FYR Macedonia G-5, Fedorova 12, tel. 238 66 16, fax 238 66 17. Georgia Mel’nykova 83 D, tel./fax 451 43 53. Germany A-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 25, tel. 247 68 00, fax 247 68 18. Ghana C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 11, ap. 6, tel. 279 29 89, fax 228 52 85. Greece I-5, Panfilovtsiv 10, tel. 254 54 71, fax 254 39 98. Hungary B-2, Reytars’ka 33, tel. 230 80 01, fax 272 20 90. Chili I-4, Suvorova 4/6, tel. 290 20 40, fax 290 41 70. China D-6, M. Hrushevs’koho 32, tel./fax 253 73 71. India Teryokhina 4, tel. 468 66 61/468 70 32, fax 468 66 19. Indonesia E-1, Nahirna 27 B, tel. 206 54 46/206 54 47, fax 206 54 40. Iran B-5, Kruhlouniversytets’ka 12, tel. 253 85 43, fax 254 02 53. Island Yakira 8, tel. 568 59 62/568 59 63, fax 568 59 66. Israel B-6, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 34, tel. 586 15 00, fax 586 15 55. Italy B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 32B, tel. 230 31 00, fax 230 31 03. Japan C-5, Muzeinyi prov. 4, tel. 490 55 00, fax 490 55 02. Kazakhstan Mel’nykova 26, tel. 489 18 58, fax 483 11 98. Kuwait B-1, Kudryavs’ka 13-19, tel. 238 27 46/238 27 95, fax 238 63 94. Kyrghyzstan A-1, Artema 51/50, tel./fax 482 08 89. Latvia I-4, Sichnevoho Povstannia 6B, tel. 490 70 30, fax 490 70 35. Lebanon B-3, Chapaeva 4, office 3, tel. 235 98 46, fax 234 15 65. Libya Ovruts’ka 6, tel. 238 60 70, fax 238 60 68. Lithuania Buslivs’ka 21, tel. 254 09 20, fax 254 09 28. Malaysia H-6, Buslovs’ka 25, tel. 286 89 41, fax 286 89 42. Mexico C-6, Krutyi uzviz 6/2, tel. 251 29 44, fax 251 29 33. Moldova I-4, Sichnevoho Povstannia 6, tel./fax 280 77 22. 65 The Netherlands C-2, Kontraktova ploscha 7, tel. 490 DINADIS G-6, Schorsa 3, MPalats Ukraina, tel./fax 247 47 19, www.dinadis.com.ua. The travel company offers a wide list of tourist services including hotel reservation in Ukraine and abroad, transport, excursion, and transfer services. It also offers a large database of apartments for rent on daily basis, and cars for rent (limousines, buses, sedans, retro cars). 82 00, fax 490 82 09. Nigeria J-5, Panfilovtsiv 36, tel. 254 58 51/254 58 50, fax 254 53 71. Norway B-3, Strilets’ka 15, tel. 590 04 70, fax 234 06 55. Pakistan I-5, Panfilovtsiv 7, tel. 280 25 77, fax 254 45 30. Palestina G-5, Fedorova 12, of. 9, tel. 289 42 10, fax 238 26 95. Poland B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 12, tel. 230 07 00, fax 270 63 36. Portugal G-5, Fedorova 12, 2d floor, tel. 287 58 61, fax 230 26 25. Romania A-3, M. Kotsiubyns’koho 8, tel. 234 52 61, fax 235 20 25. Russia Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 27, tel. 244 09 61, fax 246 34 69. Serbia & Montenegro G-1, Volos’ka 4, tel. 425 60 60, fax 425 60 47. Slovakia B-2, Yaroslaviv Val 34, tel. 272 03 10, fax 272 32 71. Slovenia A-3, B. Khmel’nyts’kogo 48, 4th floor, tel. 585 23 31, fax 585 23 43. South Africa A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, tel. 287 71 72, fax 289 72 06. South Korea B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 43, tel. 246 37 59, fax 246 37 57. Spain G-1, Khoryva 46, tel. 492 73 20, fax 492 73 27. Sweden A-3, Ivana Franka 34/33, tel. 494 42 70, fax 494 42 71. Switzerland J-5, Koziatyns’ka 12, tel. 281 61 28, fax 280 14 68. Turkey H-5, Arsenal’na 18, tel. 281 07 50, fax 285 64 23. Turkmenistan B-4, Pushkins’ka 6, tel. 279 34 49, fax 279 30 34. United Kingdom C-3, Desyatynna 9, tel. 490 36 60, fax 490 36 62. USA A-1, Yu. Kotsyubyns’koho 10, tel. 490 40 00, fax 490 40 85. Uzbekistan C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 16, tel. 501 50 00, fax 501 50 01. Vatican A-1, Turhenevs’ka 40, tel. 482 35 57, fax 482 35 53. Vietnam Tovarna 51 A, tel. 284 57 40, fax 284 55 42. Ukrainian officials President’s Office C-5, Bankova 11, tel. 255 73 33, www.president.gov.ua. Parliament (Verkhovna Rada) D-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 5, tel. 255 21 22, www.rada.gov.ua. Cabinet of Ministers C-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 12/2, tel. 256 63 33, www.kmu.gov.ua. Ministry of Foreign Affairs D-3, Mykhailivs’ka pl. 1, tel. 238 17 77, fax 272 22 12, www.mfa.gov.ua. National Bank of Ukraine C-5, Instytuts’ka, 9, tel. 253 01 80, fax 230 20 33, www.bank.gov.ua. Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 66 BusIness DIreCtory www.inyourpocket.com Accountants & Consulting Apple Consulting A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 8, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 495 27 28, fax 495 27 70, www. applecons.com.ua. BusIness DIreCtory BEITEN BURKHARDT – LEGAL CONSULTING IN THE UKRAINE We are a leading independent German law firm which is active internationally and represented with 13 offices in Eastern Europe, China and Brussels. We advice sophisticated national and international clients on all aspects of commercial law. Advising clients in the Ukraine since the early 1990s BEITEN BURKHARDT opened an office in Kyiv in 2004 as the first major German law firm in the Ukraine. Immediately upon official opening BEITEN BURKHARDT became legal advisor in major transactions in the country. Legal support for investment projects with foreign capital participation has become one of BEITEN BURKHARDT’s core practice areas in the Ukraine. While rendering professional advice based on international and local legislation, we provide the following services to our clients: Modelling efficient business structure Planning and implementing projects with foreign capital participation  Legal support for various business transactions and day-to-day operations  Corporate restructuring, mergers and acquisitions   67 Lawyers Beiten Burkhardt B-6, Turgenevs'ka 38, MUniversytet, tel. 494 04 00, fax 494 04 01, bblaw-kiew@bblaw. com, www.bblaw.com. Beiten Burkhardt is one of the 10 largest law firms in Germany. As an independent German law firm with a strong international presence, Beiten Burkhardt advises companies, groups and the public sector comprehensively in all areas of commercial law. Beiten Burkhardt provides legal services worldwide with more than 300 lawyers in 13 locations: Beijing, Berlin, Brussels, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt am Main, Hong Kong, Kyiv, Moscow, Munich, Nuremberg, Shanghai, St. Petersburg and Warsaw. Deloitte & Touche A-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 17/52, Business centre “Leonardo” MTeatral’na, tel. 490 90 00, fax 490 90 01, www.deloitte.com.ua. tel. 490 30 00, fax 490 30 30, www.ey.com/ua. Ernst & Young B-4, Khreschatyk 19A, MKhreschatyk, KPMG C-4, Mykhailivs’ka 11, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 490 55 07, fax 490 55 08, www.kpmg.kiev.ua. MVokzal’na, tel. 490 67 38, www.pwc.com.ua. PricewaterhouseCoopers F-4, Zhylians'ka 75 Banks OTP Bank F-4, Zhylians‘ka 43, MRespublikans‘kyi Stadion, tel. 8 800 300 05 00, www.otpbank.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank Aval I-5, Lieskova 9, MPechers‘ka, tel. 490 88 88, info@aval.ua, www.aval.ua. SEB Bank A-5, Chervonoarmiis‘ka 10, ML‘va Tolstoho, tel. 238 67 67, www.seb.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz C-5, Instytuts’ka 19B, 5th floor, MKhreschatyk, tel. 503 35 46, fax 503 35 49, www.cms-rrh.com/kyiv. CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz is a founding member of CMS, an association of leading independent European law firms with 56 law offices in the most important commercial locations across 28 jurisdictions. CMS has a global network of 600 partners, 2200 lawyers and tax advisors. CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz Kyiv offers legal advice on Real Estate, Corporate Law (M&A), Banking & Finance, Intellectual Property, Tax, Energy & Environment and Dispute Resolution. Gvozdiy & Oberkovych C-5, Instytuts’ka 19B, suite 29 MKhreschatyk, tel. 581 12 20/581 12 21, info@ gvozdiy.com, www.gvozdiy.com. Corporate Law, Due Diligence, Foreign investments, project financing, taxation, real estate, litigation, general legal services. Tax planning Alternative dispute resolution  Representation in state courts and arbitral tribunals  EU law  Legal counsel in the field of Banking and Finance   The BEITEN BURKHARDT Kyiv team includes qualified German and Ukrainian attorneys, all of whom are multilingual, have been educated abroad and are excellent professionals in their chosen fields. Our working languages are Ukrainian, Russian, German and English. Address: wul. Turgenevs’ka 38, Kyiv 01054, Ukraine; Contact person: Mr. Felix Rackwitz; Tel: +38 044 494 04 00, Fax: +38 044 494 04 01; E-mail: bblaw-kiew@bblaw.com; http://www.beitenburkhardt.com UniCredit Bank B-3, vul. Yaroslaviv Val 14A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 585 89 85, www.unicredit.com.ua. €1 = 7.77Hr; US$1 = 6.17Hr (25 November 2008) Fertile soil alone is not enough. Our lawyers support your business in Ukraine. CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz TOV Dr. Andreas Knaul, LL.M. 19 B Instytutska St., 01021 Kyiv, Ukraine T +380 44 5033546, F +380 44 5033549, E kyiv@cms-rrh.com ww.cms-rrh.com Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 68 LIFestyLe DIreCtory Learning Ukrainian The following is a list of some of the most common words and phrases a person is likely to need. Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu) Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia) Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka) You’re welcome Прошу (PRO-shu) Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu) Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte) Yes Так (tak) No Ні (ni) Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho) Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo) I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu) I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu) Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’) Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia) Ambulance Швидка (shvyd-KA) Where is…? Де знаходиться...? (de zna-KHO-dytsia) Right, left Право, ліво (PRA-vo, LI-vo) One beer, please! Одне пиво, будь ласка (od-NE PY-vo bud’ LAS-ka) Do you speak English? Ви розмовляєте англійською? (Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu) Days of the week Monday Понеділок (pone-DI-lok) Tuesday Вівторок (viv-TO-rok) Wednesday Середа (sere-DA) Thursday Четвер (chet-VER) Friday П’ятниця (PYAT-nytsia) Saturday Субота (su-BO-ta) Sunday Неділя (ne-DI-lia) Numbers 1 один (o-DYN) 7 сім (sim) 2 два (dva) 8 вісім (VI-sim) 3 три (try) 9 дев’ять (DE-vyat’) 4 чотири (cho-TY-ry) 10 десять (DE-syat’) 5 п’ять (pyat’) 100 сто (sto) 6 шість (shist’) 1000 тисяча (TY-sya-cha) LIFestyLe DIreCtory Dry cleaners & laundries Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 28, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 201 63 67. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at: Schekavyts’ka 9A, tel. 417 14 33. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun; Sichnevoho Povstannia 5, tel. 280 58 16. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun; Turhenevs’ka 80, tel. 486 88 91. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. 69 Learn Russian or Ukrainian in downtown Kyiv!!! - Group and One-on-one Courses - Crash courses - Business courses Tel.: 234 12 70/237 77 50 info@novamova.net, www.learnrussian.kiev.ua 14V Yaroslaviv Val Str., o ce 28, Kyiv, 01034, Ukraine PECHERSK SCHOOL INTERNATIONAL, KYIV www.psi.kiev.ua 7a, Victora Zabily Str. Tel: (+38044) 455-9585 Fax: (+38044) 455-9580 communication@psi.kiev.ua Culture centres British Council G-1, Skovorody 4/12, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 490 56 00, fax 490 56 05, www.britishcouncil.org.ua. QOpen 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. French Cultural Centre G-6, Gorkoho 104, MPalats Ukraina, tel. 529 27 59/529 41 57, www.ifu.com.ua. Q Open 15:00 - 18:00; Tue, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00; Sat. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Goethe Institute G-1, Volos'ka 12/4, MKontraktova ploscha, tel. 496 97 85, info@kiew.goethe.org, www. goethe.de/kiew. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Polish Institute A-3, B. Khmel'ny tskoho 29/2, #17, MUniversytet, tel. 288 03 04, fax 288 02 86, ip@polinst.kiev.ua, w w w.polinst.afor tio.kiev.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine-Japan Centre Peremohy prosp. 37, MPolitekhnichnyi Instytut, tel. 241 68 66, library@uajc.ntukpi.kiev.ua, www.uajc.com.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Beauty salons Diva Health & Beauty Centre A-3, B.Khmel'nytskoho 53/53, MUniversytet, tel. 492 74 92, fax 537 73 73, info@operahotel.com.ua, www.operahotel.com.ua. Jacques Dessange B-4, vul. Volodymyrs’ka 49A, MPechers’ka, tel. 569 60 00, www.jacques-dessange. com. Also at Hyatt Regency Hotel, tel. 537 63 00QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Spa Naturel C-3, Tarasova 5A, Hyatt Regency Kyiv Hotel, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 581 12 40, www.kiev. regency.hyatt.com. Experience an authentic indigenous experience in the heart of the city. Spa Naturel is the combination of 11 luxurious private rooms with individual walk-in showers, steam rooms and relaxation areas, private treatment areas, cosy nail care salon designed to offer exquisite treatments and unexpected beauty. Earthy harmony and a sense of total balance and peace is in every detail of the Spa and Club: pampering treatments, serene atmosphere, earthy and elegant interior design, unique duplex suite featuring chromatherapy Jacuzzi make it a perfect escape for mind and body. Spa Naturel offers an array of holistic, ancestral rituals from around the world: Hawaiian Lomi Juma, invigorating Floral from India and purifying stone ritual from Mexico. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. International schools Kyiv International School Sviatoshyns’kyi prov. 3A, MSviatoshyn, tel. 452 27 93/452 29 98, kiev@qsi. org, www.qsi.org. Pechersk School International Viktora Zabily 7A, MLybids’ka, tel. 455 95 85, fax 455 95 80, communication@psi.kiev.ua, www.psi.kiev.ua. The British International School (Primary) Scherbakova 36A, MNyvky, tel. 400 20 77/239 21 21, primary@bisk.kiev.ua, www.britishschool.kiev.ua. The British International School (Secondary) Libraries American Library G-1, Volos’ka 8/5, building 4, #116, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 417 31 13, www.library. ukma.kiev.ua/amer/. English language publications. Q Open Mon, Fri 11:00 - 17:00, Tue, Thu 14:00 - 17:00, Wed 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. National Parliamentary Library C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 85 12. Founded in 1866. Over 4 million volumes. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. State Historical Library I-5, Sichnevoho Povstannia 21 (Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra, bldg 24), MArsenal’na, tel. 280 46 17. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Tolbukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. 400 21 10/400 83 52, reception@britishschool.kiev.ua, www.britishschool. kiev.ua. Language courses Echo Eastern Europe Bohatyrs’ka 6/1, MObolon, tel. 361 86 50, www.echoeecom. High quality Russian and Ukrainian education with reasonabke cost.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. English Language Centre I-5, Kutuzova 4A, MPechers’ka, tel. 581 19 89, www.elckiev.org. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. InterLingua Pryrichna 25A, office 12, MHeroiv Dnipra, tel. 492 09 66, www.interlingua.com. Ukrainian and Russian for foreigners. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Monarch International Language Academy Vets & pets Pet hotel F-4, Vidradnyi prosp. 31, tel. 404 76 42/ 917 95 85. Big and small, short and long haired, calm and choleric, mother's “pups” and serious independent lodgers will all be met here and cared for under those conditions in which he is use to. Have you bought a little pet dog or a cat? Do they poke their noses into everything and test your shoes and furniture for firmness? What will you do if you have to leave on holiday, business, or a night out? Who can you leave your little pet with? Here he will have everything: toys, slippers, balls - all the things he would like to gnaw, tera to pieces, or play with. The staff also includes a veterinary and hairdresser. Tolbukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. 451 78 39, www. monarchila.kiev.ua. Lessons and courses in Russian, Ukrainian, English, German and French. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Oxford Class A-3, M.Kotsubyns’koho 6, office 7, MUniversytet, tel. 234 79 29/244 97 92, www. english-ok.com.ua. Ukrainian and Russian for foreigners. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Novamova B-3, vul. Yaroslaviv Val 14V, office 28, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 234 12 70, www.learnrussian. com. Russian for foreigners. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. National Parlamentary Library Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 70 heaLth & sPorts Clinic & Hospitals American Medical Centre Berdychivs'ka 1, MLuk'yanivs'ka, tel. 490 76 00, fax 490 76 01, www. armcenters.com. Individual, family and corporate medical plans. Children's health. Women health. 24-hours emergency visit, hospitalisation or evacuation abroad. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. heaLth & sPorts Help! Ambulance service Doctor’s phone advice Information about hospitalised patients Pharmacy information service Vet ambulance service 03 083 003 067 243 72 41 71 Ice skating Bil’shovyk (at the Bil’shovyk shopping mall) Het’mana 6, MShuliavs’ka, tel. 200 07 50. QOpen 08:00- 03:00. Admission 25-55Hr/hour, 15-35Hr for children. Karavan (at the Karavan Shopping mall) Luhova 9, MMins’ka, tel. 461 82 05. QOpen 08:15 - 02:00. Admission for 45 minutes of skating costs 25-45Hr for adults, 10-20Hr for children. Ledovyi Stadion (Ice Stadium) Glushkova 9, MLybids’ka, tel. 526 52 26. Open-air skating rink open only when weather allows. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 25Hr/2 hours. Nauka-Sport Vernads'koho 32, MSvyatoshin, tel. 424 02 02 QOpen 18:00 - 23:00, Sat,Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Admission 30Hr for 45 minutes. Pioneer Ice Club I-4, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MArsenal’na, tel. 496 53 53, www.ice-club.com.ua. The Pioneer Ice Club has an ice skating rink and cafeteria serving mountain snacks from all over Europe. There is a disco on the ice every Friday. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Admission 20-40Hr. Billiards & Bowling Chameleon E-3, Peremohy prosp. 3, Ukraina Shopping Mall, MUniversytet, tel. 496 17 17. Chameleon is the only bowling club in the Kyiv centre. It is located on the third floor of Ukraina Mall. There are ten bowling lanes, a bar, and a restaurant in the club. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. 99-198Hr per hour. Opticians Centre of the ophtalmology and aesthetic medicine AILAS Bazhana prosp. 12A, MOsokorky, tel./fax 291 01 CMD Pymonenka 10A, MLuk'yanivs'ka, tel. 239 12 23, 91, info@ailas.com.ua, www.ailas.com.ua. Clinic Ailas - the latest laser technology and modern methods of treatment are used in this centre of ophthalmological and aesthetic medicine. Patients are provided with a wide spectrum of solutions, from therapy to laser surgery, to improve their quality of life. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. PAL Jumbo Moskovs’kyi prosp. 20B, MPetrivka, tel. www.cmd.kiev.ua. FA full spectrum of laboratory tests with results within 24hrs. Urologist, andrologist, sexopathologist. Gynaecologist, gynaecologist-endocrinologist. Molecular. diagnostics of all sexually transmitted and TORCh infections (PCR detection method). Complex diagnostic programmes (therapy, cardiology, gastroenterology, immunology and allergology). QOpen 00:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. A 390 53 77, www.jumbo.kiev.ua. This bowling club is located on the fourth floor of the Plazma Shopping Centre, and is the biggest in Kyiv; thirty Brunswick bowling lanes compensate the distance from downtown. There is individual lane polishing for professionals and ten bowling lanes with bumpers for beginners. Qualified instructors are also available. The fine for hitting the screen hanging over the lane with the ball is 6000Hr. Bowl carefully. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 48-216Hr per hour. Machaon Luhova 12, Karavan Shopping Mall, MObo- Pharmacies Bosm Pharm A-3, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 17, MUniversytet, tel. 235 50 17. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Massage Wai Thai L-3, Mykils'ko-Slobids'ka 2B, MLivoberezhna, tel. 541 02 72/541 04 30, www.waithai.com.ua. Get yourself to Wai Thai. Your stress and strains will melt away amidst the sounds of traditional Tibetan trumpets and cembalo. You’ll be ravished by the mysterious aromas of sandalwood, lotus, patchouli, bergamot and herbal tea, and enchanted by the décor: soft tints, subdued lights and Buddha himself gazing from the corner of the hall making sure everything happens in a godlike manner. An oasis of Oriental culture. lon’, tel. 206 43 33. Like other bowling clubs, Machaon is situated in a shopping mall and is a popular relaxation venue after lots of shopping. The club has ten bowling lanes. Q 78-198Hr per hour. Staronavodnyts’ka, 13, section “A”, office 48, MPechers’ka, tel./fax 569 28 28, info@medlab.kiev.ua. Offers a full range of laboratory analyses. Samples are sent twice a week to Berlin in Germany for processing. They will give you a full run-down of your clinical health. QOpen 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-15:00. Closed Sun. A Laboratory Dr.Roedger Fitness clubs 5th Element Club Elektrykiv 29A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 351 77 33, http://5el.com.ua/eng/. This fitness club is situated on Rybalsky Island, near the Dnipro River. Clients have the opportunity to mix fitness with relaxation and healthy food. There is a beauty salon, a spa centre, several workout rooms, a gym and tennis courts. Q Open Mon-Fri 07:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-23:00. Maximum Dekabrystiv 12/37, MKharkivs’ka, tel. 562 62 62. Your bowling options at Maximum include the cosmic variety, for which you’ll pay fairly astronomic prices of up to 198Hr per hour - at more sensible times the hourly price is as low as 78Hr. But this Left Bank complex offers much more: a restaurant, six bars, billiards, disco, casino and striptease dancing. Plus fun kid’s activities every Sunday at 12:00. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. POTALEGB Aquarium Fitness Centre Heroiv Stalinhrada 45, MMins’ka, tel. 239 22 22, www.aquarium.kiev.ua. Gym, swimming-pool, water attractions, squash, bicycle sport, children’s game room. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. Mayak Moskovs’kyi prosp. 17/1, MPetrivka, tel. Dobrobut E-2, Pymonenka 10, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 451 50 60, fax 486 47 91, www.med.dobrobut.com. Emergency services, medical assistance and transportation of patients within Kyiv, Ukraine and abroad. Functional and laboratory diagnostics and consulting services. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Skiing Protasiv Yar F-6, Protasiv Yar 39, MPalats Ukraina, tel. 528 37 57. Full skiing equipment rental start at 60Hr (70Hr on weekend) for two hours, with similar prices for instruction. Every next hour cost 25Hr. Snowboard rental start at 70Hr. One lift ride costs 2.50-3.50Hr, 5-6Hr on weekend. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon 14:00 - 22:00. Club Olympus C-3, Tarasova 5A, Hyatt Regency Kyiv Hotel, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 581 12 40, www. kiev.regency.hyatt.com. Club Olympus combines two interrelated concepts “Well-being and Fitness”. The state of the art gymnasium is fitted with the latest equipment from Technogym such as cardiovascular machines, a wide range of strength machines, free weight and high-tech audio visual equipment. Members of the Club are offered a studio with a selection of body & mind group classes and stretching area as well as a team of professional trained instructors to provide tailored training programs. The aqua facility includes 22 - meter indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, Finish sauna, cold jet shower as well as a juice bar for a complete sense of relaxation. QOpen 06:00 - 23:30. 464 69 01. The Mayak Billiard Club is one of the most prestigious in Ukraine. The interiors are designed to be in perfect harmony with the green baize of the tables, and every kind of billiards is on offer, from American pool to English snooker and the Russian pyramid. Admission 10-30Hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PSI Co Ltd Lepse bul'v. 4, Silver Centre, MBeresteis'ka, Mirage Artema 37/41, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. 461 tel./fax 492 85 60, www.psi-cro.com. Contact research organisation (drug development). Swimming pools Olymp H-4, Dymytrova 10, MRespublikansky Stadion, tel. 287 61 49. You’ll pay 40Hr for a 45-minute swim at Olymp. Regular vistors can go 10 times for 360Hr and save a few hryvnias. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Yunist H-4, Bastionna 7, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. 285 21 22. The minimum price here is 35Hr, which grants you four visits at an hour-and-a-half each. QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, 19:00 -21:00. Ukrainian-German Clinic A-6, Chervonoarmiys'ka 67/7, MRespulikans'kyi Stadion, tel. 289 44 35/289 52 72, fax 248 72 86. A private centre that provides medical services in therapy, obstetrics-gynaecology, urology, andrology, dermatovenerology, dermatocosmetology, mammology, endocrinology, otolaryngology and neurology. 90 87. Is this really the same game that beer-guzzling rednecks play in the heartland of America? The comparison stops fairly abruptly with the equipment, which is the same, thankfully. Not only can you enjoy the six sublime lanes, you can also gamble, shoot pool, dance, drink, dine and even sing karaoke. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. POAL Strike Peremohy prosp. 84, MNyvky, tel. 501 01 Dentists Avanto D-1, Kostiantynivs’ka 22/17A, MKontraktova MedLife Lux Heroiv Stalingrada 20, MMins'ka, tel. 412 Ploscha, tel./fax 531 37 97, www.avanto.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A 21 23. A medical clinic of the highest quality and reputation offering the full range of dental services: prophylactics, hygiene, paradontics, therapy, orthodontics, restoration, implants, ceramics and paediatric dentistry. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Favourite V.I.P. Club C-5, Muzeinyi prov. 6 MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 33 38, www.favourite.kiev. ua. One of the best fitness clubs and spas in the whole of Ukraine. Given its prime location, this club is popular amongst the political, cultural, and business elite of Kyiv. It has a wide range of facilities, a VIP service, and the newest in deluxe pampering technology. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Tennis courts Nauka International Vernads'koho 32, MSvyatoshin, tel. 424 34 81, www.nauka-tennis.kiev.ua. A court costs 120Hr/hour, 150Hr/hour on weekend. Lesson with an instructor cost 120Hr additional. A pro-shop is on hand selling tennis equipment and clothing. In addition to tennis, the Nauka complex has a fitness centre, sauna, beauty salon and restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. FNKD Podil Tennis Courts B-1, Mezhyhirs'ka 56/63A, MTarasa Shevchenko, tel. 451 58 58. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. One hour of tennis costs 130-220Hr on a closed court. Lessons cost 130-220Hr per hour. 10/501 01 11, www.strike.kiev.ua. For the pleasure of knocking down pretty white pins with a heavy ball at Strike, the prices start at a reasonable 66Hr/h before 17:00 and then climb to a whopping hourly rate of 216Hr after 22:00. We know it’s only bowling, but you’ll need to dress up a little if you’re hoping to fit in with the “New Ukrainian” crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PTAI LGBK Ultramarin Uritskoho 1A, MVokzal’na, tel. 206 03 Prisma D-3, Sahaidachnoho 25, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. 425 14 04. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. www.inyourpocket.com 51/206 03 53, www.ultramarine.com.ua. The Ultramarine club was one of the first bowling clubs in Ukraine. It has the fastest pin spotter in the city, 18 bowling lanes, three tables for Russian billiards, and two for American billiards. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. 78-213Hr per hour. Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 72 shoPPInG Antiques Antique Centre D-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 3, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 425 12 37. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Antiques Salon G-4, Gorkoho 11, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 287 37 58. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Belle Epoque C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 34, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. 278 39 55. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Gelos D-2, Sahaidachnoho 14, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. 531 99 27. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Megamarket G-5, Gorkoho 50, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 248 73 87. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. Also at: Moskovs’kyi prospect 6, tel. 531 39 73. Open 09:00 - 24:00; Surikova 3, tel. 248 97 96. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Sil’po D-2, Sahaidachnoho 41, MKontraktova Ploscha. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Also at: Suvorova 4, Honchara 96, Filatova 7, prosp. Peremohy 47, Dorohozhyts’ka 2, Bilorus’ka 2. shoPPInG 73 Gifts & Souvenirs Central Department Store B-5, B.Khmel‘nyts‘koho 2, MKhreschatyk, tel. 234 95 05. Offers a discount of five per cent on Sundays. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Silver Bells I-4, Sichnevoho Povstannia 18/29, MArsenal’na, tel. 254 57 77/254 57 78. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Books Knyharnia YE B-4, Lysenka 3, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 235 88 54. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Naukova Dumka C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 06 96. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Laura Ashley D-3, Sahaidachnogo 35, MPoshtova Siayvo A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 6, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 235 43 66. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00 Svit Knyhy I-4, Slav y ploscha (under gr ound), MArsenal’na, tel. 254 50 09. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Ploscha, tel. 425 12 45, www.laura-ashley.com.ua. Women‘s and children‘s wear. Also at Gorkoho 19/21. Tel. 537 20 13. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. A Souvenirs C-4, Khreschatyk 32, MKhreschatyk, tel. 235 41 34. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Ukrainian Souvenir B-4, Pushkins‘ka 31A, MTeatral‘na, tel. 234 22 77, fax 235 22 87, www.ukrsov.kiev.ua. A vast range of affordable souvenirs from simple key-rings to full Ukrainian costumes. All of the items on sale here are hand made with natural materials, and many are unique. Among the many traditional craft works, such as carved and painted caskets encrusted with jewels, fine needlework, tablecloths and hand-embroidered towels, easter eggs, ceramics and all kinds of wooden souvenirs, you are bound to find something. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Shopping malls Alta Centre Moskovs‘kyi prosp. 11A, MPetrivka, tel. 426 54 54. Alta Centre was the first shopping mall to open in the Ukrainian capital. Fashion, sports wear, footwear, cosmetics, perfumery and souvenir stores sell just about anything you can imagine. The mall also hosts a massive supermarket, two department stores and a number of restaurants serving most styles of cuisine. What makes Alta worth visiting, especially for the casual tourist, is the gallery of Ukrainian fashion boutiques adorned with the creations of local designers. There is a fashion show spotlighting these designs every Saturday. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Comod Lunachars‘koho 4, MLivoberezhna, tel. 593 25 53. Here you will find famous fashion names, including Naf Naf, Mexx, Donatto, InWear, Alessandro, Marks&Spencer and Closed. Q A Globus C-4, Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Underground), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 590 18 93/590 18 96, www.globus.com.ua. Globus is one of the best places to go clothes shopping in the Ukrainian capital. There are 192 shops on three levels - two of which are underground. You‘ll find all your favourite big names here, including Adidas, MEXX, Esprit, Motor Jeans, Polo Garage, Cacharel, Colin‘s and Tommy Hilfiger. There are also shoe shops, jewellery, lingerie and perfumery outlets. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Mandarin Plaza B-5, Baseina 4, MKhreschatyk, tel. 230 95 50, fax 230 95 91, www.mandarin.kiev.ua. The seven-level Mandarin Plaza shopping centre is conveniently located close to the city centre, in the Bessarabs‘kyi district. The Plaza features numerous stores, offering goods of every kind. Boutiques - those sanctuaries of high fashion - feature the latest creations by the world‘s best known designers. A club for children makes it a great place to shop with kids. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Metrograd A-5, Bessarabs‘ka ploscha (underground), ML‘va Tolstoho, tel. 247 56 65, www.metrograd.com. The largest shopping and recreation centre close to the city centre offers the usual vast array of stores, as well as cafés, fast food outlets, restaurants, discos, and amusement arcades. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Louis Vuitton C-4, Khreschatyk 15/4, MKhreschatyk, tel. 459 73 70. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Mango C-4, Khreschatyk 13/2, MKhreschatyk, tel. 279 38 60, www.argotrading.com. Spanish apparel for women. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Fashion Bally C-4, Kreschatyk 15, MKreschatyk, tel. 279 84 93, www.bally.com.ua. Stylish apparel and accessories. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Mexx A-5, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 23A, ML‘va Tolstoho. Naf Naf C-4, Khreschatyk 15, MKhreschatyk, tel. 278 27 82. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. Camel Active A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 24, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 461 98 05. Wear, shoes, accessories from Germany. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Jewellery Diamant (Brilliant) C-4, Khreschatyk 21, MKreschatyk, tel. 279 07 05. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Kashtan A-5, T. Shevchenka bul’v. 2, MKhreschatyk, tel. 234 70 53. Watches and jewellery. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 -18:00. Flowers Floreal B-2, Vorovs’koho 14, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 272 25 94. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Flower vanilla A-5, L’va Tolstoho 15, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. 244 22 00. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Escada A5, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 20, ML‘va Tolstoho, tel. 234 73 14. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Grand Gallery C-4, Khreschatyk 27, MKhreschatyk, tel. 235 13 18. Men’s, women’s and children’s wear. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Kyiv Jewellery Factory G-6, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 112, Green Gallery A-3, Volodymyrs’ka 51/53, MZoloti Vorota, tel. 246 49 12. Also at: Pyrohova 3, tel. 234 64 03; Chervonoarmiys’ka 84, tel. 248 74 85. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Helen Marlen C-4, Khreschatyk 15, MKhreschatyk, tel. 390 33 15. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Sun 11:00-20:00. Hugo Boss C-4, Horodetskoho 4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 51 81. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Christian Lacroix A-5, Museinyi prov. 2A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 13 65. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Kristina C-4, Kostyol’na 4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 278 79 50. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Kvitka (Ukrainian Flower Mail) D-1, Obolons’ka 37, office 28, MTarasa Shevchenka, tel. 537 22 66, www. kvitka.com.ua. International flower delivery - 150 countries all over the world. Delivery within Kyiv is free of change. A nonKyiv delivery - fee - 50-125Hr. English speaking staff. MPalats Ukraina, tel. 529 56 41. The Kyiv Jewellery Factory produces almost half of all jewellery in Ukraine, and is the country‘s indisputable leader in the production of gold and silver. It dates back to 1936, when a repair shop for clocks and jewellery became a factory. It now produces more than 3,500 different pieces of jewellery, with new designs being created every month. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Perlyna (Pearl) C-4, Khreschatyk 46, MKreschatyk, tel. 234 25 53. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Kids Antoshka I-5, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 19/16, MPechers’ka, tel. 286 26 21. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Daniel C-4, Myzeinyi prov. 2B, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. 279 69 00. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Ka zka Nova G-5, Cher vonoarmyis’ka 54, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 287 27 02. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. ALP Roksolana B-5, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 3B, MTeatral’na, tel. 462 01 33. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Food & Drink Furshet Gorkoho 165, MLybids‘ka, tel. 521 16 20. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Also at: Lunachars‘koho 22, tel. 517 75 05. Open 09:00 -23:00; Yaroslavs‘ka 57, tel. 463 75 21. Open 24 hrs; prosp. Peremohy 94/1, tel. 449 69 11. Open 24 hrs; Rusanivs‘ka Naberezhna 4, tel. 555 27 49. Open 24 hrs; Starovokzal‘na 23, tel. 234 47 62. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Lapin House A-5, Shota Rustaveli 34, MPalats Sportu, tel. 246 68 16. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Sports gear Myslyvstvo, rybalstvo, sport (Hunt, fishery, sport) C-4, Khreschatyk 32, MKhreschatyk, tel. 234 03 55. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. A Reebok G-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 37, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. 287 55 59. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. €1 = 7.77Hr; US$1 = 6.17Hr (25 November 2008) Kyiv In Your Pocket December 2008 - January 2009 74 street reGIster A.Barbiusa G-5/6 A.Holovka E-6 Ak.Bohomoltsa B/C-6 Andriivs’ka D-3 Andriivs’kyi uzviz C/D-2 Arsenalna H/I-5 Arsenalna pl. I-4 Artema A-1/B-2 B.Hrinchenka B/C-4 B.Khmel’nytskoho A-3/B-4 Bankova C-5 Baseina B-5 Bastionna I-6 Berezniakivs’ka L-6 Bessarabs’ka pl. B-5 Borychiv tik D-2/3 Borychiv uzviz D-3 Borysohlibs’ka D-2 Bozhenka G-5/6 Brats’ka G-2 Brovas’kyi prosp. K/L-3 Chapaieva A-3 Chehovs’kyi prov. A-2 Cheliabins’ka L-2 Chervonoarmiis’ka A-5(G-4/6) Chornovola E-2/3 Chyhorina H-6 Darvina B-5 Dehtiarna C-2 Desiatynna C-3 Dmytrievs’ka E-3 Dnitrovs’ka naberezhna L-5/6 Dnitrovs’kyi uzviz J-4/5 Dokuchaevs’ka F-5 Druzhby Narodiv bul’v. I/J-6 Dymytrova G-5 Entuziastiv L-4/5 Esplanadna A-5 Fedorova G-5 Florencii L-3 Frolivs’ka D-2 Frunze F-1 Georhiivs’kyi prov. B-3 Gorkoho G-4/5/6 Haidara F-4/5 Hlybochits’ka B/C-1 Hoholivs’ka A-1/2 Honcharna C-2 Horodets’koho C-4/5 Hospital’na A-6 Ihorivs’ka D-3 Illins’ka D-2 Instytuts’ka C-4/5/6 Irynins’ka B-3 Ivana Franka A/B-3 Ivana Kudri I-6 Ivana Franka pl. C-5 Kakhovs’ka L-1/2 Kanal’na L-6 Khorevyi prov. D-1 Khoryva D-1 Khreschatyk C-4/B-5 Klinichna E-6 Klovs’kyi uzviz C-6 Kominternu F-4 Kontraktova pl. D-2 Kopernyka E-1 Kosohirnyi prov. B-1 Kostiantynivs’ka D-1(F-1/G-1) Kostyol’na C-4 Kovpaka H-6 Kozhumiats’ka C-1/2 Krasnodons’ka E-5 Kriposnyi prov. C-6 Kropyvnyts’koho B-5 Kruhlouniversytets’ka B-5 Kudriashova E-5 Kudriavs’ka B-1 Kudriavs’kyi uzviz B-1 Kutuzova I-5 L’va Tolstoho A-4/5 L’va Tolstoho pl. A-5 L’vivs’ka pl. B-2 Laboratornyi prov. H-5 Leontovycha A-4 Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. H-4/I-6 Lesi Ukrainky pl. H-5 Lieskova I-5 Liuterans’ka B-5/6 Lunachars’koho L-2/3 Lykhachova bul’v. I-6 Lyps’ka C-6 Lysenka B-3 M.Amosova F-6 M.Hrinchenka F-6 M.Hruchevs’koho C-4/5 M.Kotsubyns’koho A-3 M.Raevs’koho H-6 Maidan Nezalezhnosti C-4 Mala Zhytomyrs’ka C-3/4 Malopidval’na B/C-4 Mechnikova H-4 Mekhanizatoriv E-5 Mezhyhirs’ka D-1/2 Moskovs’ka I-4 Mykhailivs’ka C-3/4 Mykhailivs’ka pl. C-3 Mykil’sko-Slodids’ka L-2 Myrna C-1 Naberezhnoe shose D-1/3 Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka G-1 Nahirna E-1 Narodna E-6 Nekrasova A-1 Novovokzal’na F-5 Nyzhnioyrkivs’ka F-1 Nyzhniy Val C/D-1 O.Davydova L-4 O.Honchara A-2/B-3 Obolons’ka F-1 Observatorna A/B-2 Ol’hyns’ka C-5 Olehivs’ka C-1 Olenivs’ka F-1 Otto Smidta E-1 P .Lumumby H-6 P .Orlyka C-6 Panasa Myrnoho I-5 Panel’na L-2 Pankivs’ka F-4 Parkova doroha D-5/6 Patorzhyns’koho G-3 Pavlivs’ka A-1 Pecheniz’ka E-1 Pechers’ka pl. I-5 Peremohy prosp. E-3 Petrivs’ka C-1 Petrivs’ka aleia D-5 Petrozavods’ka E-4 Pidhirna E-1 Pochainins’ka G-1 Pokrovs’ka D-2 Polovets’ka E-1 Poltavs’ka A-1 Polzunova E-4 Povitroflots’kyi prosp. E-3/4 Predslavyns’ka G-6 Prorizna B-4 Protasiv Yar F-6 Prytys’ko-Mykils’ka D-2 Pushkins’ka B-4/A-5 Pymonenka E-2 Pyrohova A-3 Raisy Okipnoi L-3 Reitars’ka B-2/3 Riznyts’ka I-5 Rohnedyns’ka A-5 Rybals’ka I-5 Rusanivs’ka naberezhna L-4 Ryls’kyi prov. C-3 S.Sahaidaka L-1/2 Sadova C-5 Sahaidachnoho D-2/3 Saksahans’koho A-5/6 Schekavyts’ka D-1 Schors’a G/H-6 Shota Rustaveli A-5 Shovkovychna B/C-6 Sichnevoho Povstannia I-4/5 Slavy pl. I-4 Sofiivs’ka C-3/4 Sofiivs’ka pl. C-3 Soliana E-1 Solomians’ka E-6 Spas’ka D-2 Stadionna E-4 Staronovodnyts’ka I-5 Starovokzal’na E-4 Strilets’ka B-3 Stritens’ka B/C-2 Suvorova I-4 Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v. A-3/5 Tarasivs’ka F-4 Tatars’ka E-1 Tereschenkivs’ka A-4 Tr’okhsviatytels’ka C-3/4 Tsehel’na L-2 Tsytadel’na I-5 Turgenevs’ka A-1 Tvers’ka G/H-6 Tvers’kyi prov. H-6 Urits’koho E-5 Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka B-2/C-3 Verhnia I-6 Verhniy Val C/D-1 Vetrova F-4 Volhohrads’ka E-6 Volodymyrs’ka C-3/B-4/A-4 Volodymyrs’kyi uzviz D-4 Volos’ka G-1 Vorovs’koho A/B-2 Vozdvyzhens’ka C/B-1 Voznesens’kyi uzviz C-1/B-2 Vozz’ednannia prosp. L-5 Vvedens’ka G-1 Vyzvolyteliv prosp. L-1 Yu.Kotsubyns’koho A-2 Yams’ka G-6 Yaroslaviv Val B-2/3 Yaroslavs’ka D-1 Yevropeis’ka pl. C-4 Yurkivs’ka F-1 Zan’kovets’koi B/C-5 Zhytniotorz’ka D-1 Zlatoustivs’ka E-3 Zhylians’ka E-3 Note Some streets in Kyiv have been renamed recently, however very often the old names are still widely used, sometimes even more often than the new ones. Even maps and street signs do not agree on which version should be used. We decided on using the more popular name. Here are the most confusing cases: Old name New name Gorkoho Antonovycha Chervonoarmiys’ka Velyka Vasyl’kivs’ka 40-richchia Zhovtnia Holosiivs’kyi prosp. Artema Sichovykh Stril’tsiv The following sights are marked on the map: 1 2 3 Golden Gate Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra I van H on char’s M useum, Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art 4 Mariinskyi Palace 5 St. Andrew’s Church 6 St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral 7 St. Sophia’s Cathedral 8 St. Volodymyr’s Cathedral 9 Museum of Russian Art 10 Museum of the Great Patriotic War 11 Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collection 12 National Art Museum 13 National History Museum 14 N a t i o n a l M u s e u m o f Chernobyl 15 Th e Boh dan and Var vara Khanenko Museum of Arts 16 The One Street Museum 17 The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine 18 A small-scale Kyiv 19 PinchukArtCentre 20 Art Arsenal Kyiv In Your Pocket InDeX House with Hymers 51 Hugo Boss 72 Hyatt Regency Kyiv 18 Ikra oyster club 41 Il Patio 38 Impressa 23 Incomartour 64 InterLingua 68 Intours Kyi 53 IP Telecom 57 Ivan Franko National Academic Drama Theatre 14 Ivan Honchar's Museum, Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art 55 Jacques Dessange 68 Joss 47, 48, 50 Jumbo 71 Kafka 46 Kamelot 23 Kampai 38 Karavan 71 Kashtan 73 Kavkazkaya plennitsa 32 Kazka Nova 73 Khreschatik 23 Khreschatyk 51 Khutorets 42 Kiev Apartment Service 28 Kiev for You 29 Kiev Lodging 29 KievRent 29 King David 40 Kinopalats 14 KLM 61 Korona Club 37 Kozats'ka Vtikha 42 Kozats'kyi 24 Kozatskiy Stan 27 Kozatskyi Stan 42 KPMG 66 Kraft Reisen Gmbh 59 Kristina 72 Kupechesky Dvor 40 Kureni 42 Kuvshin 32 Kvitka (Ukrainian Flower Mail)72 Kyiv 23, 27 Kyiv (Zhulyany) Airport 61 Kyiv Academy Doll Theatre 14 Kyiv Fortress Museum 55 Kyiv Hotel Luxe 29 Kyiv Hotel Service 29 Kyiv International School 69 Kyiv Jewellery Factory 73 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 54 KyivStar GSM 57 Kyiv Taxi 12, 58 Kyiv Theatre of Operetta 14 L'Accente 40 L'Amour 36 La Bella 45 Landhaus 27 Lapin House 73 La Pizza Leggera 45 La Scala 38 Laura Ashley 72 Lavinia 43 Le Cosmopolite 32 Leonardo Ice Cream café 46 Le Grand Café 36 Life 57 Limousine Service 59 Limusin 12, 58 Lipsky Osobnyak 42 London Club 50 Lucull 38 Lufthansa 61 Lybid 23 Maidan Nezalezhnosti 51 Makabi 46 Makhaon 71 Mandarin 33 Mandarin Plaza 73 Marche 36 Mariins’kyi Palace 52 Marilyn 50 Marocana Fashion Café 36 Marrakesh 40 Maximum 71 Mayak 71 MedLife Lux 70 Megamarket 73 Mexx 72 Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar 50 Mille Miglia Restorante & Enoteca 38 Mimino 33 Mir 24 Mirage 71 Monaco 40 Monarch International Language Academy 68 Monastyrs'ka Trapezna 42 Moskva 38 MTS 57 Museum of automobile history in models 55 Museum of Historical Valuables 54 Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collection 55 Museum of Russian Art 55 Mysterious Kyiv 52, 53 Mystetskiy Kurin' 14 Mystetskyi arsenal 55 Naf Naf 72 National Art Museum 55 National History Museum 55 National Museum of Chernobyl 52 National Musical Academy 17 National Opera of Ukraine 15 National Philharmonic 16 Natsional'nyi 20 Nauka-Sport 71 Nauka International Tennis court 71 Naukova Dumka 72 Nescafé 46 New Bombey Palace 36 New Logic 53, 59, 61, 64 Nirvana 36 Novamova 68 O'Brien's 48 Oberig 24 Obolon 23 October Palace 17 Old Tbilisi 33 Olga 29 Olvia 16 Olymp 71 Olympic 27 Opera 20 Osteria Pantagruel 38 OTP Bank 66 Oxford Class 68 Palace of Sport 17 Panorama 40 Parter 16 Pecherskyi Dvoryk 43 Pelmennitsa 41 Pena 37 Perlyna (Pearl) 73 Perlyna Dnipra 24 Pervak 43 Petergof 41 Pet hotel 68 Petrovich Club-Restaurant 41 Picasso 34 PinchukArtCentre 55 Pioneer Ice Club 50, 71 Pizza Papa 45 Pizzeria Napulè 45 Planeta Sushi 38 Podil Tennis Courts 71 Podol Plaza 20 Polish Institute 69 Pomada (Lipstick) 48 Porto 41 Premier Palace 20 President 24 PricewaterhouseCoopers 66 Primavera 45 Prisma 70 Protasiv Yar 71 PSI Co Ltd 70 Puppet-on-Strings Theatre 14 Radisson SAS 20 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 66 Razguliaevo 43 Reebok 73 Repriza 46 Richelieu 36 Riviera on Podol 20 Rus 24 Russian Drama Theatre 14 Safe 34 Salyut 24 Sam's Steak House 32 San Tori 38 SEB Bank 66 Senator apartments 20 Shafran 43 Shangrila 43 Shirvan Shah 33 Shnitzel 34 Shokoladnitsa 46 Shynok 43 Siayvo 72 Silver Bells 73 Sixt 59 Slavutych 26 Smart: Low Cost Car Rental 59 Soho-New York Steak & Seafood 30 Sonata-Travel 53 Sound Planet 50 Souvenirs 73 Soviart 14 Spa Naturel 68 Split Club 48 Sport 26 Sportmaster St. Andrew’s Church 53 St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Cathedral 53 St. Sophia’s Cathedral 53 St. Volodymyr’s Cathedral 52 State Museum of Theatre, Music and Cinema Arts of Ukraine 54 State Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Art 54 Strike 71 Sunduk 48 Surprise 36 SushiYA 38 Svit Knyhy 72 Svitlytsia 36 Swiss International Air Lines 61 T.G.I. Friday's 30 Talgen 48 Teatro 35 Tequila House 40 Terrace 35 The British International School 69 The Museum of Hetmanship 56 The One Street Museum 56 The Pharmacy Museum 56 The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine 56 Time Out 30 TNT 57 Tokio 38 Tourist 26 Toys museum 56 Tsarske Selo 43 Tsvetochnyi Nosorog stripclub 50 U Hromogo Pola 34 Ukraina Cinema 14 Ukraine 24, 26 Ukraine-Japan Centre 69 Ukraine International Airlines 61 Ukraine Palace 17 Ukrainian-German Clinic 70 Ukrainian Souvenir 73 Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Printing 54 Ultramarin 71 UniCredit Bank 66 Universal Flights Sales Agency 61 UPS 57 Vagon-Restaurant 37 Varenichnaya #1 43 Vault 13 Computer Club 57 Velur 37 Vezuvio Pizza 45 Vostok 33 Vozdvyzhens'kyi boutique hotel 20 Vulyk 43 Wai Thai 71 Wolkonsky Kayzer 46 Xlib Club 50 Ya Gallery 14 Yaroslav 27 Yunist 71 Zhovten 14 Zoloti Vorota (Golden Gate)55 79 Slovians'k Lozova Kramators'k Stakhanov Luhans'k Pavlohrad Kostyantynivka Alchevs'k Horlivka Krasnyi Dnipropetrovs'k Luch Yenakiieve Shakhty Donets'k Makiyivka Novocherkassk ° Rostov� na�Donu 50 FEDERATION 45 Krasnodar Novorossiysk RUSSIAN ° E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S 5th Element Club 70 7 Days 24 Adria 22 Aeroflot 61 AeroSvit 61 AILAS 70 Air Baltic 61 Akvarel 14 Alitalia - Linee Aeree Italiane S.p.A. 61 Alta Centre 73 Alvona 53, 64 American Medical Centre 70 Amici Mi 37 Andrew’s Descent 51 Andriivs’ka Church 17 Angel 40 Ani 32 Annabelle 35 Antique Centre 72 Antiques Salon 72 Antoshka 73 Antresol 45 Apartments in Kyiv 28 Apartments Rent Kiev 28 Apple Consulting 66 Aquarium Fitness Centre 70 Arena Entertainment 49 Arizona BBQ 30 Arktur 53, 64 A small-scale Kyiv 55 Atelier 35 Atelier Karas 14 Austrian Airlines 61 Avalon 41, 48 Avanto 70 Avis 59 Azhur 49 Bally 72 Baraban 47 Bar on 8 47 Bastet 34 Beeline 57 Beiten Burkhardt 66 Belle Epoque 72 Belle Vue 32 Bellini's Bar 47 Belvedere 34 Bierstube 47 Bil'shovyk (at the Bil'shovyk shopping mall) 71 Bistro Cote Est 36 Boryspil State International Airport 61 Bosm Pharm 70 BREEZE Chauffeur Drive Service 12, 58 British Airways 61 British Council 69 Brunello 47 Buddha-bar 36 Bulgakov Museum 55 Bunker Computer Club 57 Butterfly Deluxe 14 Butterfly Ultramarin 14 Café-Theatre Koleso 14 Camel Active 72 Caravella 37 Carpatair 61 Carribean Club 49 Casino 21st Century 48 Castle Vydubychi 34 CC 49 Celentano 45 Central/Southern Train Station 60 Central Bus Station 59 Central Department Store 73 Central Post Office 57 Chameleon 71 China White 33 Christian Lacroix 72 Cimes 40 Club Olympus 70 CMD 70 CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz 66 Coffee Time 45 Collection 14 Comod 73 Concord 36 Cyber café 48 D.A.Semadeni 45 Daniel 73 Daniella Hotel Service 28 Da Vinchi 14 Da Vinci Fish Club 38 Decadence House 36 Deloitte & Touche 66 DeltaTaxi 12, 58 DHL 57 Diamant (Brilliant) 73 DiaWest 57 Diva Health & Beauty Centre 68 Dixieland 35 Dnipro 18 Dobrobut 70 Docker's ABC 49 Docker Pub 48 Dolce 38 Dom Domus 22 Dorothy’s Pub 48 Double Bass 35 Double Coffee 45 Drama and Comedy Theatre on the Left Bank 14 Echo Eastern Europe 68 Éclair, confectionary restaurant 45 Elite Cars 59 English language centre 68 Ernst & Young 66 Escada 72 Etno cafe 45 Europcar 59 EvroTaxi 12, 58 Exibition of Microminiatures by M.Syadrystyi 54 Express 24 Express A Limited 59 Faberge 49 Favourite Premium Club 70 Federal Express 57 Fellini 35 Floreal 72 Flower vanilla 72 Folk Architecture and Life Museum Pyrohovo 56 Fortetsya 22, 42 Fratelli d'Italia 38 FreeDom 17 French Cultural Centre 69 Furshet 72 Gabriela 48 Gallery RA 14 Gapchinska 14 Garage 48 Gelos 72 Gintama 22 Globus 73 Gloria Jean's Coffees 46 Goethe Institute 69 Golden Gate Irish Pub 48 Golden Telecom 57 Grand Gallery 72 Grata Apartment Service 28 Grata Car Rental 59 Green Gallery 72 Grifon 14 Grill Asia 37 Gvozdiy & Oberkovych 66 Han Gang 40 Hatinka 42 Hertz Rent a Car 59 Holosiivs'kyi 26 Home-Hotel 28 Honchary 14 House of Coffee 46 House of Organ and Chamber Music 15 UKRAINE Starobil'sk 40 ° Taganrog Mariupol' Berdyans'k SEA OF AZOV Kuban' 35 ° RUSSIAN FEDERATION Belgorod Izyum Kharkiv Kerch K er c he k ns Zaporizhzhia Melitopol’ Feodosiya Kursk Pr y o li v Marhanets' EA Yalta AUTONOMOUS REP. OF CRIMEA Simferopol’ Kremenchuk Dniprodzerzhyns'k Nova Kakhovka Kryvyi Rih Nikopol’ Kahovske Vdskh. Sumy a ok Z at Dzhankoy Karkinists'ka Romny Poltava o Cherkasy Kirovohrad Brovary Dn Homyel' Uman’ Pervomays'k Odesa i Mykolayiv Nizhyn pr Piv d u country maph .B Chornobyl' Korosten' Mouths of the Danube Bila Tserkva Kyiv 30 ° BLACK Constanta Shostka Konotop Kremenchuts'ke Vdskh. Pryluky Chernihiv Smila Yevpatoriya Lubny Sevastopol’ Kherson Zhovti Vody S BULGARIA 250 300 km 150 0 50 100 25 200 mi 0 50 100 150 200 Chisinau Vinnytsia BELARUS Kamianets'�Podil's'kyi Zhytomyr Novohrad� Volyns'kyi Berdychiv Pr ipya Dn ist e r Bati b Danu Rivne Ternopil' R P Drohobych Stryi A T Khmel'nyts'kyi H SLOVAKIA IA N Kalush Ivano�Frankivs'k Pinsk et Sir Chernivtsi I A National capital Capital of Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' centre City, town Airport International boundary Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' boundary Road Railroad VOLYNS'KA Kolomyya Kovel’ Luts'k ZAKARPATS'KA OBLAST' L'viv M O POLAND Mukacheve Lublin Warsaw Przemysl ? n Sa Uzhhorod HUNGARY W a i sl ° CA R O M 50 45 ° ° U UKRAINE Brest N TA A IN S Oblast names are the same as their respective centres except were labelled. OBLAST' 25 N ° Varna Iasi R Galati Braila e F .O EP D OVA M O LPrut Reni ts' Izmayil 30 ° 35 ° Vorskla Su la De s na December 2008 - January 2009