Kolka In Your Pocket

The north-western tip of Latvia around Cape Kolka (Kolkas rags) offers some of the most ruggedly beautiful and unspoilt scenery in the country. It is also interesting for a sadder reason as the last refuge for the dying Livonian nation.

A bit of history
Its members, who speak a Finno-Ugric language related to Finnish, Estonian and Hungarian, could once be found throughout the territory of Latvia. Indeed, when German crusaders founded Riga in 1201 they did so at the site of several Livonian fishing villages on the banks of the Daugava. During the opening ceremony of the Baltica folklore festival in the Latvian capital in 1997 the participants from many countries had to pass through a symbolic gate guarded by Livonian cultural activist Helvija Stalte before 'entering' the city.

Because of a low birth rate and the plagues and wars of many centuries, the Livonians gradually became extinct everywhere except the north-west. Within living memory, Midsummer's Eve on the sandy beaches was marked in the traditional way by burning fishing boats on the sandy beaches, according to living Livonian Paulīne Kļaviņa. Last year she read some of her poetry in the language for the British National Film and Sound Archive, so that the tongue will be presrved for posterity by technology. During the Soviet era, the area was a restricted military zone and further damage was done to the nation as the people, traditionally fisherman, were forced to find work in larger ports. However, the same policies may have helped preserve the unique beauty of the area from modern development. The Latvian government decided this was a good thing in 1991 by declaring the Livonian coast, 14 villages stretching from Purciems, 11km south of Kolka, to Luzna, 49km south-west, to be a protected area. No hotels or restaurants are allowed to be built here.

The Last of the Livonians
There are only about 20 native speakers left, another 10 young people who have learnt the tongue of their ancestors, and about 100 who choose to have Livonian listed as their nationality in their Latvian passports. Since the restoration of independence academic interest in the language has increased and in 1996 the University of Latvia joined institutions in Estonia and Finland by offering Livonian as a subject for study. A Finnish documentary film called The Last of the Livonians was made.

Cape Kolka
A two hour drive along the coast road north-west of Riga brings you to Kolka. Turn right past the disused radar tower and park your car then take a short walk down to Cape Kolka, where you can witness the meeting of the Gulf of Riga and the Baltic Sea. A sign warns that swimming is dangerous in the middle of the confluence, but a little further away its alright and apparently the water on the Gulf side is warmer. There is a futuristic orange sculpture of the sun at the tip advertising Kolka as 'the cross-point of Europe.'
Following the dirt road to the south-west are several villages which, with their simple wooden houses, seem virtually untouched by the 20th century. Some of the prettiest include Pitrags, Vaide, and Kosrags.

Mazirbe
18km south of Kolka is Mazirbe. The town houses the Livonian culture centre (Līvu Tautas Nams in Latvian, Livlist Rovkuoda in Livonian), built in 1938 with the support of linguistic cousins in Hungary, Finland and Estonia. Inside is a small museum showing photos of previous generations of Livonians and their flag - green representing forests, white the sandy beaches of the coast, and blue for the sea. On the first Sunday of August there is a gathering of all Livonians here, culminating in a procession to the beach where a wreath is cast into the sea in remembrance of fishermen who have met watery deaths. A camp for young people where only Livonian is spoken is held for a week beforehand.

Miķeltornis
Further down the road to Ventspils is Miķeltornis. There is a large lighthouse here and if you ask the attendant may let you up for a panoramic view of the surroundings. The local cemetery has the graves of several Livonians including a monument to two poets.
If you are looking for action and excitement, then go someplace else. However, with a quiet mind and heart this region can offer an enchanting glimpse at a world well and truly lost elsewhere.