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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Riga October - November 2008 Quick Picks Jūrmala Avoid the autumn blues Latvia’s spa capital N°75 - 2Ls www.inyourpocket.com In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in 46 cities across the continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com. In Your Pocket Europe’s City Guide inyourpocket.com E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents  E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Foreword Gossip and rants from the editor 6 7 8 10 14 Once a Mecca for millions of Soviet holidaymakers, the traditional spa town of Jūrmala has been trying to reinvent itself as a year-round tourist destination that offers something for everyone – beaches and outdoor cafés in spring and summer as well as spas and refined restaurants in autumn and winter. See what a 35-minute train ride will bring you on p.72. Photo courtesy of Hotel Jūrmala Spa Arriving in Riga How to get to your hotel The Basics Getting to grips with Riga Culture & Events Concerts, cinema, opera and ballet Quick picks Riga for lads, lovers and loners Where to stay 16 Beds for backpackers and business executives Dining & Nightlife From pork knuckle to sushi Nightlife Party hard in the city that never sleeps 30 50 Sightseeing Check out the highlights 56 Light festival 57 Riga Shines will make its debut in November Old Riga walking tour The very best of the old town 78 62 65 Getting around Planes, trains and automobiles Mail & Phones It’s good to talk Directory Shopping Sports Health & Lifestyle Officials 66 68 70 71 72 Jūrmala Latvia’s historic spa town Maps & Index If autumn leaves have you singing the blues then turn to page 14 to find something fun to do. It doesn’t matter if you’re wealthy, skint, out with the boys or travelling with your significant other, we’ve compiled a list of quick picks that can make your stay in Riga that much more enjoyable. Photo by Mārtiņš Zaprauskis Jūrmala map Old Riga map Riga city centre map Country map Index/Old Riga street register 76 79 80 82 83 October - November 2008  Foreword Although autumn is traditionally a time for Latvians to sulk and sink into a depressive state, this year even the three usual antidotes to the blues (mushroom picking, leaf peeping and heavy drinking) will have a tough time making a dent in the gloom that currently hangs over the nation. Usually, it’s just the cold, the rain and the lack of sunlight that causes locals to curse their lot in life, but a year of doubledigit inflation, soaring fuel and food costs, rising interest rates and plummeting real estate prices can make even the most optimistic of people consider a long swim in the River Daugava. Status conscious Latvians are holding onto their leased BMW and Mercedes jeeps by the skin of their teeth while growing Euribor percentages dictated by the ECB have led to an increase of up to €100 or more for monthly household mortgage payments on apartments and houses that have already lost considerable value. On top of that, inept and corrupt politicians who presided over this mess are pointing the finger at anyone but themselves, even going so far as to blame Latvia’s State Revenue Service for not collecting enough taxes from the plebs. Thankfully, although RIYP is just as vulnerable to market forces as any other business and can at times be as pessimistic as a Lehman Brothers shareholder, we’ve always embraced a live for today philosophy even if the world is going to Hades in a handcart. To help you more fully enjoy your stay in Latvia we’ve put together our top picks for eating, drinking, sleeping, seeing and doing for all budgets and tourism goals on p.14. Enjoy, spend and invigorate the Latvian economy! Europe In Your Pocket Newsstand “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” New York Times, July 9, 2008 Cover story Sorry. We couldn’t resist putting yet another Riga landmark on the cover. The massive red brick neo-Gothic building that now houses the Latvian Art Academy was actually commissioned by the Riga Stock Exchange in 1902. Although its façade will definitely catch your gaze, the art nouveau stained glass inside will make your jaw drop. With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit newsstands before Christmas. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is our new, much improved website, coming soon to public beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket. com, and let us know what you think via email: editor@inyourpocket.com is our address. Copyright notice Text and photos copyright SIA “Latvijas ceļveži” 1995-2008. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket: Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Riga In Your Pocket Elizabetes 75 LV-1050 Riga Latvia tel. (+371) 67 22 05 80 fax (+371) 67 22 34 16 riga@inyourpocket.lv www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1407-2335 ©SIA “Latvijas ceļveži” Printed by Microdot Published six times per year Editorial Editor Mārtiņš Zaprauskis Researcher Normunds Norenbergs Layout & Design Mārtiņš Zaprauskis Photos Mārtiņš Zaprauskis, unless otherwise noted Sales & Circulation General Manager Ģirts Upenieks Sales & Circulation Manager Ģirts Upenieks girts@inyourpocket.lv (+371) 67 22 05 80 Cover: Mārtiņš Zaprauskis ©SIA “Latvijas ceļveži” Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers’ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Riga In Your Pocket Arriving in rigA By bus The first thing you’ll notice upon arrival at the bus terminal or autoosta (open 05:00 - 24:00) are the impressive hangars of the Central Market to your right just above the murky waters of the Riga canal. Inside, Eurolines and Ecolines offices are located to your left as well as an ATM, baggage room (0.24 - 0.50Ls/hour, 0.20Ls each additional hour) and toilets for 0.15Ls (ask for paper). To your right is the waiting room. A bar/cafeteria with great views, a baby-changing station, a shower and even a small hostel are available upstairs. At the far end of the hall are a tourist and bus information centre (open 08:00 - 21:00) and currency exchange booth. Getting to town: trams N°7 or 9 stop in front of the bus station; ride it one stop into the centre (buy a 0.40Ls ticket from a kiosk in the station). To get there on foot, turn left, walk through the underpass and follow the signs ‘Vecrīga-Vaļņu iela’ into Old Riga. The cabs outside are notoriously unreliable, so public transport is your best bet. Q  Tourist information City of Riga Information Centre I-2, Rātslaukums 6, tel. 67 03 79 00, fax 67 03 79 10, tourinfo@rcc.lv, www.rigatourism. com. Offers a wide range of information in a variety of languages.Q Also on J-3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), tel. 67 22 05 55. Open 09:00 - 19:00; D-4, Stacijas 2 (Train station), tel. 67 23 38 15. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Latvian Tourist Information Centre H-1/2, Smilšu 4, tel. 67 22 46 64, www.latviatourism.lv. Stop by the this info centre before venturing out into the countryside for maps and useful tips. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Baltic Tourism Information Centre H-2, Torņa 4 (IC-102A), tel./fax 67 32 37 27, www.balticinfocentre.com. Information, maps, tours and hotel reservation for all three Baltic nations. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30. By car As of 21 December 2007, Latvia is part of the Schengen zone of European nations and no longer operates passport checkpoints on its land borders with Estonia and Lithuania. Just drive across the border. The Russian and Belarusian borders still require time and patience. Happy trails! Q By train The train station (centrālā stacija) underwent massive renovations, and has been modernised with a spacious central hall and many shopping and eating options. International trains arrive at platform 2. Follow signs down to the Central Hall (Centrālā zāle), under which are renovated pay toilets (0.10Ls - ask for paper from the surly cashier) and a baggage room (0.50 - 1.50Ls/day), open 04:30 - 24:00. Exchange money at the currency exchanges (valūtas maiņas) or at the banks in the main terminal. There are several ATMs in the terminal. Pay-as-you-go internet points/phones can be found by the toilets next to tunnel A and by the Narvesen in front of tunnel C. The train information office is open 08:00 - 20:00. Getting to town: you are right beside Old Riga. Turn left when leaving the station and head toward the spire of St. Peter’s Church, then walk through the underpass and follow the signs ‘13. janvāra iela’ and turn right onto Aspazijas bulvāris. Q By ferry The ferry terminal and yacht harbour lie less than 1km north of Old Riga. Change money in the terminal. Open 09:00 18:00. Getting to town: take trams N°7, 5 or 9 (buy a 0.40Ls ticket in the terminal or a 0.50Ls ticket from the tram driver), from Ausekļa two stops to the centre of Riga. Q By plane The airport (lidosta) is some 13km southwest of the Riga city centre. Baggage claim and customs are fairly quick, but don’t forget to pick up a complimentary copy of Riga In Your Pocket while waiting for your luggage. A currency exchange booth is available here (open until the last flight) as well as a tourist information centre. Reserve a hotel room or rent a car in the arrivals hall. A 24-hour baggage room (1Ls/day) and yet another information centre are also available here, as well as three ATMs and a post office (open 08:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00). If you’ve departed from a non-Schengen country such as the US, you will arrive in a different terminal at the north end of the airport building. Car rental and currency exchange are available here, but you might want to leave the terminal, make a right and then enter the Schengen arrival hall because it offers more services. Getting to town: A queue of eager taxis will be waiting outside the arrivals hall. A typical ride to the city centre should cost no more than 10Ls. The Airport Express shuttle stops at five different hotels throughout the city for 3Ls every 30 minutes between 05:30 - 00:45. Buses N°22 (get off at 11.novembra or Stockmann) or 22A (get off at the last stop, Esplanāde) cost 0.40Ls and depart for the city centre every 20 minutes, but be prepared to pay extra for large pieces of luggage. Exit the airport arrivals hall and walk across the parking lot to find the bus stop and schedule or directly to the right for express bus 22A. More info at www.riga-airport.com. Q Autumn day by the University of Latvia M.Zaprauskis Riga Card Tourists looking for a good deal can purchase the Riga Card, which provides free use of trams, buses and trolleybuses, free admission or discounts at museums, specials on car rental, discounts at restaurants, souvenir shops and much more. The Riga Card also comes with a free copy of Riga In Your Pocket and is available at major hotels, tourist info centres, travel agencies and the airport. Prices: 10Ls/24hrs, 14Ls/48hrs, 18Ls/72hrs. Children under 16 half price. RC establishments in this guide are given the following symbol: RC Riga Card Office Tel./fax 67 21 72 17, info@ rigacard.lv, www.rigacard.lv. Q Reserve a room online at www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008  BAsiCs Alcohol Latvia has the dubious honour of holding the record for the world’s drunkest person. A few years ago an unnamed vagrant was found unconscious by police. His blood test revealed an astounding 7.22 parts per mille of alcohol. Although we don’t suggest you attempt to break any records, we do hope you enjoy a local drink in moderation while in Riga. Užavas, Bauskas, Tērvetes and Lāčplēša are among the nation’s best beers and the infamous Riga Black Balsam is a potent liquor that Latvians enjoy inflicting on tourists. Q Market values McDonald’s Big Mac 1.55Ls $3.23 €2.21 Loaf of white bread 0.50Ls $1.04 €0.71 Snickers bar 0.39Ls $0.81 €0.55 0.7L of vodka 4.50Ls $9.38 €6.43 0.5L bottle of local beer 0.50Ls $1.04 €0.71 20 Marlboros 1.45Ls $3.02 €2.07 Public transport ticket 0.40Ls $0.83 €0.57 Cinema ticket 3.50Ls $7.29 €5.00 1l of petrol 0.80Ls $1.67 €1.14 Exchange rates (as of 23.09.2008) US$1 - 0.48Ls €1 - 0.70Ls £1 - 0.89Ls ¥100 - 0.45Ls Health & Safety It’s no longer a state secret how much Eastern Europe’s pristine environment has been polluted over the past half century as a result of Soviet industrialisation policies. Thank fully, most of these troubled areas have been effectively cleaned up and are now safe for the public to enjoy. Unfortunately, air quality in Riga is still not the best. The World Health Organisation has listed Latvia, Estonia and Lithuania as hot zones for untreatable strains of tuberculosis. When visiting rural areas one should be aware that cases of tick-borne encephalitis are quite common. We advise vaccination against this disease if you plan on spending time in Latvia’s forests. Sadly, racially motivated attacks by Russian-speaking skinheads on both men and women, especially in Old Riga and the tunnels by the bus and train stations, are on the rise. Please be vigilant. Muggings are also not unheard of in Riga. Those who enjoy a good pint and who frequent pubs and clubs should beware of any suspicious characters hanging around outside of bars and discos. We hate to heap any extra pressure on single travellers, but try to avoid going home unaccompanied or, better yet, just take a cab. Q Money The national currency is the lat (Ls). There are 100 santīmi to the lat, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 santīmi and 1 and 2 lat coins. Bank notes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 lats. The lat has become one of the strongest monetary units in Europe. As we go to press, one euro sells for 0.70Ls and one US dollar for a pathetic 0.48Ls. Although Latvia was originally scheduled to adopt the Euro in 2008, experts believe that the Eurozone may prove elusive for many years. There are currency exchange booths everywhere accepting a wide range of foreign bank notes, but always check rates before exchanging money. Major hotels, restaurants and shops accept Visa, Euro- and MasterCards. In this guide we have marked establishments that take credit cards. There are numerous ATMs around town as well. Travellers’ cheques can be cashed at many banks and at Latvia Tours (see Getting around). After business hours the only place in Riga we know of is the Radisson. Q Riga In Your Pocket BAsiCs  Roads Latvia has some of the world’s worst drivers. Passing on blind curves is shockingly common, red lights are ignored by most BMWs and pedestrians on crosswalks tend to become targets for wannabe F1 drivers in tricked out Mercedes jeeps. If, like many locals, you enjoy operating an automobile while intoxicated, you should bear in mind that all perpetrators, including foreigners, face a mandatory ten-day jail sentence. The speed limit is 50km/h in towns, 90km/h on the open road and it is strictly enforced. Speed traps are prevalent and bribes are almost a thing of the past. Parking meters are all over Riga. Traffic police will clamp your car and demand a 5Ls fine on the spot for running out of time, or will fine you 10Ls for being parked illegally. To drive into Old Riga you must purchase a viedkarte, which is a re-usable card permit with a magnetic strip, for a minimum of 5Ls or more if you plan on staying longer than one hour. Viedkarte outlets: Statoil, C-3, Eksporta 1C. Open 24hrs; C-3, Muitas 4. Open 24hrs; Parex banka, H-2, Smilšu 3. Open 09:30 - 18.30. Closed Sat, Sun. Parex banka, H-3, Kaļķu 28, Open 09:00 - 20:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:30. Q Visas Citizens from Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Bolivia, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, El Salvador, EU countries, Guatemala, Honduras, Hong Kong, Iceland, Israel, Japan, Liechtenstein, Macao, Malaysia, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Panama, Paraguay, San Marino, Singapore, South Korea, Switzerland, Uruguay, USA, Vatican City and Venezuela do not require a visa to enter Latvia and may stay up to 90 days within a period of six months to one year depending on nationality. If you wish to stay in Latvia for more than 90 days you need a residency permit or risk the threat of becoming persona non grata. For assistance obtaining residency permits or special visas call the Foreigners’ Service Centre of the Citizenship and Migration Board, F-2, Alunāna 1, tel. 67 21 96 56, fax 67 21 96 55, aad@pmlp.gov.lv, www.pmlp.gov.lv. Open Mon, Thu 09:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 09:00 - 16:30, Wed 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Q National holidays January 1 April 10, 2009 April 12, 2009 April 13, 2009 May 1 May 4 June 23 - 24 November 18 Dec 24 - 26 Dec 31 New Year’s Day (Jaungads) Good Friday (Lielā piektdiena) Easter Sunday (Lieldienas) Easter Monday (Otrās Lieldienas) Labour Day (Strādnieku diena) Independence day in 1990 Midsummer celebrations (Līgo & Jāņi) Independence day in 1918 Christmas (Ziemassvētki) New Year’s Eve (Vecgada vakars) Smoking Latvians love to smoke and until recently you could see them lighting up almost anywhere. But all that has changed. As of July 1, 2006, smoking is banned in most public places including restaurants, clubs and government buildings. The few establishments which have built completely separate smoking sections with proper ventilation systems have been assigned a X symbol in this guide. Sadly, the government has largely ignored the root causes of smoking, but a new tax on cigarettes has brought the price of a pack of Marlboros up to about €2. October - November 2008 10 Culture & events Perhaps the best aspect of Riga’s cultural life is that world-class performances are very affordable. Locals hold the opera and theatre in the highest esteem and make it a point to attend often. For more events, check newspapers and fliers around town. Opera & Ballet Oct Date 1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 15 16 17 18 19 19 22 23 24 25 25 26 26 29 30 31 Time 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 15:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 12:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 12:00 19:00 12:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 19:00 Event Venue Carmen, opera, Bizet OP Giselle, ballet, Adam OP Rusalka, opera, Dvorak OP Swan Lake, ballet, Tchaikovsky OP Aida, opera, Verdi OP Madame Butterfly, opera, Puccini OP Anna Karenina, ballet OP Tosca, opera, Puccini OP The Sandman, ballet, Spuck OP La Traviata, opera, Verdi OP Don Quixote, ballet, Minkus OP Carmen, opera, Bizet OP Anna Karenina, ballet OP Aida, opera, Verdi OP Swan Lake, ballet, Tchaikovsky OP The Puppet’s Opera, opera, OP Lūsēns Le Corsaire, ballet, Adams OP The Sandman, ballet, Spuck OP Rusalka, opera, Dvorak OP Tosca, opera, Puccini OP The Tale of Tobias the Bear and OPN the Stolen Notes Madame Butterfly, opera, Puccini OP The Puppet’s Opera, opera, OP Lūsēns The Puppet’s Opera, opera, OP Lūsēns The Fountain of Bakhchisaray, OP ballet, Asafjev La Traviata, opera, Verdi OP Les Gems. Maria’s Dream, ballet OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OPN OPN OP OP OP OP OP OP OP OP Cinemas Forum Cinemas (Baltic Cinema) D-4, 13. janvāra 8, www.forumcinemas.lv. Forum Cinemas is the second largest cinema complex in Northern Europe. 14 viewing halls with 3200 seats are available to film-goers not to mention the largest movie screen in the Baltic-Scandinavian region. Q (3 - 4.50Ls). A K. Suns C-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel. 67 28 54 11, www. kinogalerija.lv/ksuns.php. Recently renovated with plush seating, K.Suns is now mostly dedicated to films of an arty or European variety. Q (2 - 4Ls). Rīga C-4, Elizabetes 61, tel. 67 18 11 44, www.kino. riga.lv. Originally called Splendid Palace, Riga’s first cinema has been completely renovated. Its ornate old world interior makes for an interesting movie venue and its smaller ‘new hall’ is also state of the art. It shows films from around the globe as well as box office hits. Q (3Ls). Concert halls Arena Riga A-4, Skanstes 21, tel. 67 38 82 00, www. arenariga.com. A venue for both sporting events like the Continental Hockey League and large concerts. Performers have included Placebo, Muse and the Sex Pistols. Ave Sol C-3, Citadeles 7, tel. 67 18 11 30. This small church is good for choral music concerts. Dome Cathedral I-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. The destination for world-class organ concerts. Tickets can be purchased here at the ticket counter. Great Guild (Lielā Ģilde) I-2, Amatu 6, tel. 67 22 48 50, www.lnso.lv. Home of the Latvian Philharmonic Orchestra. Riga Congress Centre (Rīgas Kongresu nams) F-2, Valdemāra 5, tel. 67 04 36 78, www.rigacongress.lv. A large venue for dance concerts, musicals and plays. Small Guild (Mazā Ģilde) I-2, Amatu 3/5, tel. 67 22 37 72, www.gilde.lv/maza. Popular venue for small concerts and events. Air Nov 7 19:00 Premiere. The Magic Flute, opera, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart 8 19:00 Anna Karenina, ballet 9 19:00 Anna Karenina, ballet 12 19:00 Don Quixote, ballet, Minkus 14 19:00 The Bright Stream, ballet, Shostakovich 15 19:00 The Magic Flute, opera, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart 16 15:00 The Fountain of Bakhchisaray, ballet, Asafjev 19 19:00 Carmen, opera, Bizet 20 19:00 The Sandman, ballet, Spuck 21 19:00 La Boheme, opera, Puccini 22 12:00 The Tale of the Dollmaker - opera for children and parents 22 15:00 The Tale of the Dollmaker - opera for children and parents 22 19:00 Le Corsaire, ballet, Adams 23 15:00 Romeo and Juliet, ballet, Prokofiev 25 19:00 Carmen, opera, Bizet 26 19:00 Dangerous Liaisons, ballet, Maskats 27 19:00 Alcina, opera, Handel 29 12:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, Tchaikovsky 29 19:00 The Nutcracker, ballet, Tchaikovsky 30 19:00 Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk, opera, Shostakovich Riga In Your Pocket Culture & events Rock, pop & Techno Time Event 20:00 Chippendales 20:00 Air - Close Up Tour 2008 21:00 Paul Gilbert 19:00 Katie Melua 19:30 Tango Seduccion 19:30 Cinema Bizarre 19:00 Di Dula 18:00, The Phantom of the Opera 22:00 29 15:00, The Phantom of the Opera 19:00 31 20:30 Mum Nov 4 19:30 Scorpions 13 20:00 Monster Magnet, Nebula, The Piligrim Father 19 19:30 Electric Light Orchestra: former members of ELO 21 20:00 Back 2 the 90s (Ace of Base, Dr. Alban, 2 Unlimited, Culture Beat) 23 21:00 Jean Michel Jarre - Oxygen Tour 26 19:30 Gaelforce Dance 28 22:00 DJ Tiesto Oct 4 5 5 12 20 21 27 28 Venue SF SF MP AR RCH SF RCH SH SH SF AR SF AR AR AR RCH AR 3 3 10 17 17 24 24 31 Scorpions 11 Cinema programme October Eagle Eye The House Bunny Star Wars: Clone Wars Wild Child Pineapple Express High School Max Payne Lakeview Terrace 7 14 21 28 November Quantum of Solace Nights in Rodanthe Death Race Body of Lies Opera & Theatres Daile Theatre (Dailes teātris) B-4, Brīvības 75, tel. 67 29 44 44. Classic theatre like Faust in Latvian. Latvian National Theatre (Latvijas Nacionālais teātris) G-1, Kronvalda bulv. 2, tel. 67 00 63 00. A beautiful building that is home to performances of more traditional plays and musicals. New Riga Theatre (Jaunais Rīgas teātris) C-5, Lāčplēša 25, tel. 67 28 33 23, www.jrt.lv. Local theatre performances with an avant-garde flavour. Opera I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3, tel. 67 07 37 77, www.opera.lv. A venue for opera, ballet and international performing artists. Tickets usually range from 5 - 30Ls depending on the event. Expect to pay much more for performances by major stars. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Riga Russian Theatre (Rīgas Krievu teātris) I-2, Kaļķu 16, tel. 67 22 46 60. As the name would suggest, theatre in Russian. Monster Magnet Embassy warning The American Embassy in Latvia has posted the following warning: The American Embassy has become increasingly concerned about the number of reported instances of crimes perpetrated against foreign clientele at local bars, clubs and lounges in Riga. Some have then been assaulted, threatened or forced to withdraw money from an ATM to pay for the bill. Local police have been unwilling and/or unable to provide assistance and victims have reported that they believe police have been involved in some of these schemes. On 25 July 2008, the Regional Security Officer at the American Embassy placed the following establishments off-limits for American staff, their family members and TDY official visitors: Foxy Lounge - located below the Fashion Café in the basement of the Vegas casino. Roxy Klub - Kaļķu 24. Groks Pub - Kaļķu 22 (renamed Lord Pub). Pink Panther - (renamed Puzzle) next door to Lord Pub. Mary - Audēju 13. DD Bars Saxon - Laipu 7. Doll House a.k.a Zig Zag - Mārstaļu 12. Bar Fly - Vāgnera 8. Venues AR - Arena Riga DH - Dzintari Concert Hall DOM - Dome Cathedral GG - Great Guild HB - House of Blackheads LU - University of Latvia MHN - Museum of Riga’s History and Navigation, D-3, Palasta 4 MP - Melnā Piektdiena (Black Friday) OP - Opera House OPN - Opera House - New Hall RCC - Riga Congress Centre, www.rigacongress.lv SF - Sapņu Fabrika SG - Small Guild SH - Skonto Hall October - November 2008 12 Culture & events Classical music Oct Date Time Event Venue 1 19:00 Opening concert of Jāzeps Vītols GG International Piano competition. Soloist Ronan O’Hora (piano), Liepāja Symphony Orchestra 2 19:30 Classical concert. Dita HB Krenberga (flute), Rūdolfs Leopolds (violoncello), Ieva Oša (piano) 3 19:30 Classical concert. Latvian GG National Symphony Orchestra, Elena Bashkirova (piano), conductor: Andris Nelsons 5 15:00 Chamber music concert. OPN 5 19:00 Organ concert. Tālivaldis DOM Deksnis (organ) 5 19:30 Classical concert. Tichina SG Vaughn (voice, USA) and Māris Skuja (piano) 9 19:30 Jāzeps Vītols International Piano GG Competition. Awards Ceremony and Prizewinners' Concert 10 19:00 Presentation of Pēteris Vasks DOM CD Cantus Ad Pacem. Tālivaldis Deksnis (organ) 13 19:30 Deutsches Symphonie Orchester GG Berlin. Soloist: Lu Wei (violin), conductor: Ingo Metzmacher 16 19:30 Classical concert. Pearls of GG Russian Music. Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, Alexander Paley (piano), conductor: Andres Mustonen (Estonia) 17 19:00 Classical concert. Kristīne DOM Adamaite (organ), Evita Raituma (soprano), Riga Dome School girl’s choir 18 14:00 Classical concert. Latvian GG National Symphony Orchestra, conductor: Andris Vecumnieks 22 19:30 Classical concert. Julia Fischer GG (violin), Wurttemberg Chamber Orchestra (Germany) 24 19:00 Organ concert. Vita Kalnciema DOM (organ), Edita Adlerova (mezzo soprano, Czezh Republic) Gaelforce Dance Classical music (continued) 30 19:30 Aida. Latvian National Symphony GG Orchestra, The State Choir Latvija, Krišjānis Norvelis (bass), Rihards Mačanovskis (bass), Valter Borin (tenor), Angela Brown (soprano), Elena Batoukova (mezzo soprano), Donnie Ray Albert (baritone), conductor: Karel Mark Chichon 19:00 Organ concert. Jolanta Barinska DOM (organ), Senais kalns choir, Vilnius Art Academy Choir (Lithuania) GG 31 Katie Melua Nov 1 19:30 Aida. Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, The State Choir Latvija, Krišjānis Norvelis (bass), Rihards Mačanovskis (bass), Valter Borin (tenor), Angela Brown (soprano), Elena Batoukova (mezzo soprano), Donnie Ray Albert (baritone), conductor: Karel Mark Chichon 7 19:00 Organ concert 9 15:00 Chamber music concert 12 19:30 Classical concert. Ieva Parša (mezzo-soprano), Evija Mundeciema (flute), Arvīds Zvagulis (violin), Jānis Semjonovs (bassoon), Kristaps Pētersons (double bass), Edgars Raginskis (piano) 13 19:00 Concert in memory of the poet Ojārs Vācietis. 14 19:00 Organ concert. Tālivaldis Deksnis (organ) 17 18:00 Symphony Nr. 8 by Gustav Mahler. Soloists: Ingrid Kaiserfeld (soprano), Anna Maria Backlund (soprano), Andžella Goba (mezzo-soprano), Jadwiga Rappe (contralto), Jeffrey Francis (tenor), Janez Lotrič (tenor), Sebastian Holecek (baritone), Simon Bailey (bass), Latvian National Opera Choir, Latvian Radio Choir, Choir Kamēr, Choir Balsis, Riga Cathedral Boys’ Choir, Riga Cathedral Girl’s Choir, State Choir Latvia, Latvian National Symphony Orchestra, Liepāja Symphony Orchestra, conductor Imants Resnis DOM OPN MHN OP DOM AR Riga In Your Pocket Culture & events Galleries Arsenāls Museum of Art H-1, Torņa 1, tel. 67 35 75 27, www.vmm.lv/lv/arsenals. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Bastejs I-2, Rātslaukums 1, tel. 67 22 50 50, www. bastejs.lv. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Birkenfelds B-3, Rūpniecības 3-2, tel. 67 21 00 73, www.birkenfelds.lv. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. BonhanS.S Gallery I-2, Skārņu 7, tel. 67 22 32 13, www.bonhans.lv. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Daugava J-2, Alksnāja 10/12, tel. 67 21 28 96. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Jāņa Sēta I-2, Jāņa sēta 5, tel. 67 21 01 39. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Jēkabs H-1, Jēkaba 26/28, tel. 29 52 86 84, www. paintings.lv. This gallery offers three rooms: one for paintings by Latvian masters, one for contemporary art and one for exhibitions. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Ķīpsala Ceramics C-2, Balasta dambis 34, tel. 67 61 24 67. It’s run by artists, so it’s best to call ahead to make sure that someone has shown up for work. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Putti J-2, Mārstaļu 16, tel. 67 21 42 29, www.putti. lv. An art gallery that specialises in jewellery and fashion. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Riga Gallery (Rīgas Galerija) I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 20, tel. 67 22 58 87, www.riga-gallery.com. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 13 Tango Seduccion Other venues Bites Blūzs Klubs B-4, Dzirnavu 34a, tel. 67 33 31 23, www.bluesclub.lv. The best place to go for blues concerts with a wide variety of performers from as far away as Memphis, Chicago and New Orleans. Carpe Diem H-2, Meistaru 10/12, tel. 67 22 84 88. An upmarket restaurant with live jazz music most evenings 19:00 - 22:00. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Četri Balti Krekli J-3, Vecpilsētas 12, tel. 67 21 38 85, www.krekli.lv. This club is home to 100% Latvian acts like Ainars Mielavs, Pērkons and Autobuss debesīs. Hamlet Club I-2, Jāņa sēta 5, tel. 67 22 99 38, www. hamlets.lv. Small venue for jazz concerts and impromptu theatre performances. Kaļķu Vārti I-2, Kaļķu 11a, tel. 67 21 25 75, www. kalkuvarti.lv. Upmarket cellar club with concerts by local favourites like Ainars Mielavs and even international singing sensation of Eurovision fame, Marie N. QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Kabata I-1, Peldu 19, tel. 67 22 33 34, www.kabata.lv. Local pop and rock concerts. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Melnā piektdiena (Black Friday) Brīvības 193c, tel. 29 87 94 75, www.melnapiektdiena.lv. The only club in Riga dedicated to heavy metal music is located within the brick walls of an old factory next to the VEF Bridge. Live acts have included such heavyweights as Napalm Death. Take tram N°6 from Barona to the VEF stop. Q Open Fri, Sat 18:00-03:00. Sapņu Fabrika D-5, Lāčplēša 101, tel. 67 28 12 22, www.sapnufabrika.lv. Industrial-style venue for anything from rock to rap concerts. Headliners have included The White Stripes, Fun Lovin’ Criminals and Air. ELO Classical music (continued) 18 18 14:00 Organ marathon concert 20:00 16:00 Concert in Celebration of the 90th Anniversary of the Republic of Latvia. Sinfonietta Rīga, Latvian Radio Choir, conductor: Sigvards Kļava 19:00 Organ concert. Atis Stepiņš (organ), Gaismaspils choir 19:00 Classical concert. Midori (violin, Japan), Charles Abramovic (piano, USA) 19:00 Organ concert. 19:30 Classical concert. Sinfonietta Rīga. Soloists: Diana Ketler (piano) and Alexander Sitkovetsky (violin) 19:00 Organ concert. Diāna Jaunzeme (organ), Schola Cantorum Riga vocal ensemble DOM GG Tickets DOM GG DOM GG 21 25 28 28 Reklamarket D-4, Stacijas laukums 4, tel. 67 88 05 33, www.reklamarket.lv. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Ticket Paradise (Biļešu paradīze) 30 DOM G-1, Kronvalda bulv. 2 (National Theatre), tel. 90 00 20 00, www.bilesuparadize.lv. Tickets to mostly Latvian events such as concerts, festivals and theatre productions. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at the box offices of the Opera (I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 3), Daile Theatre (B-4, Brīvības 75) and Puppet Theatre (C-4, Barona 16/18). A Ticket Service (Biļešu serviss) J-3, 13. janvāra iela 8 (Stockmann - top floor), www.bilesuserviss.lv. You can buy tickets to major concerts by international stars online or at one of its many outlets around Riga. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Also at Statoil petrol stations. A October - November 2008 14 quiCk piCks Riga distilled Eat Local The restaurants of the LIDO chain provide huge buffets of Latvian home cookin’ for reasonable prices. The biggest is LIDO Atpūtas Centrs on Krasta iela, but Vērmanītis and Dzirnavas are good options in the centre of town. Its Old Riga restaurant, Alus Sēta, is often crowded, the food selection is much smaller and it’s over-priced. A nice Turkish man serves delicious, spicy döner kebabs at Food Box for about 3Ls including a drink. If you’re looking for something more local in Old Riga then choose from a dozen different types of pancakes at Šefpavārs Vilhelms or fill up a bowl with Russian meat dumplings until 04:00 at Pelmeņi XL. Drink Although Latvians love their vodka and strong, cloudy beers, any elbow-bender worth his salt should try their national hooch, Riga Black Balsam. It looks like used motor oil, tastes a bit like turpentine and will definitely put hairs on your chest. Locals drink it neat, in coffee, with sweet juices or in place of cough medicine. Cheap Brālis or Brother serves its own incredibly cheap micro-brewed beer at its cosy cellar bar at the far end of Tērbatas iela. For a mug of dark Brengulis beer try the arty Gauja on the same street or tasty Czech brews around the corner on Stabu at Sveiks Švejk! In the old town order a 1Ls ābolu pīrāgs (vodka, apple juice and cinnamon) at Shot Café. Lads Stars on Grēcinieku is your best bet for a big fry up with all the fixings and you can watch football there while eating your eggs. For beautiful waitresses in sexy nurses uniforms and international cuisine head over to Hospitālis, a restaurant made to look like an operating theatre. If you’ve got football on your mind then Paddy Whelan’s is your best bet. Dozens of flat screens show matches from all of Europe’s best leagues and the beer selection is impressive. For cocktails and girls in bikinis on the bar give Paldies Dievam piektdiena ir klāt by the river a go. Couples For candlelight, inexpensive pasta and a great selection of wine try the cosy Rosso Rubino wine bar where the Italian host/owner will treat you like a member of the family. For something romantic and a bit more upmarket you can’t go wrong with Melnie Mūki located in a one-time medieval cloister, but be sure to make a reservation. Lovers who love wine shouldn’t pass up an opportunity to sip a cabernet or pinot noir at Vīna Studija, a relaxed wine bar in the art nouveau district. For cocktails and romantic views from above visit either Skyline Bar on the 26th floor of the Reval Hotel Latvija or Star Lounge on the 11th floor of the Albert Hotel. Splurge Fresh oysters on the half shell, steamed mussels, lobster or perhaps grilled swordfish with a vintage bottle of wine tickle your fancy? Gastronome in the new wing of the Reval Hotel Latvija will satisfy all of your decadent seafood cravings. If it’s celebrity sightings you’re after, book a table at Vincents. Take a cab to My Life in Jūrmala where the basilmango martinis, raspberry tartinis and other trendy cocktails will set you back nearly 8Ls. The bartender studied mixology, if there is such a word, in Scotland. Good single malts are also on offer. If you’re looking for stylish cocktails in Riga, then Lounge 8 is probably your best bet. Different Tired of the same old international menus at every café in Riga? If you’re up for something unique you might try a visit to Istaba, which is part art gallery, part restaurant. After 18:00 the chef just concocts dishes in consultation with each guest with whatever ingredients are available that day. Limited seating. Frequented by tough guy bikers, locals and tourists alike, Pieci Vilki, or Five Wolves, offers a special treat for anyone who appreciates vodka. Order a whole bottle frozen in a block of ice at your table. For Czech beer, a 1970s Soviet interior and an odd selection of music from Marilyn Manson and Billy Talent to 1980s pop try Leningrad. Riga In Your Pocket quiCk piCks Sleep Local Radi un Draugi, or Relatives and Friends, is owned by British-Latvians and was originally built as a hotel for Latvians living abroad who needed an inexpensive, decent place to stay when visiting Riga, hence the name. Finding a cheap place to crash is always tough and, until recently, nearly impossible in Riga. For an inexpensive bed in Old Riga, talk to the people at Riga Old Town Hostel. You can also give Backpackers’ Planet in the Central Market a go. Many of Riga’s hotels don’t exactly roll out the red carpet for stag parties. That said, Dodo Hotel offers plenty of three-star doubles for only €39 each. The neighbourhood isn’t the best, but it’s only a short tram or cab ride away. See Autumn is veļu laiks or the spirit time in Latvia, so what better time to visit Riga’s largest cemeteries? Nearly all of them are located on the N°11 tram line. Brāļu kapi (Brothers’ Cemetery) dedicated to Latvia’s war dead is the most impressive. Unfortunately, nearly all of the museums that are available to the public free of charge, such as the Occupation Museum and the War Museum, deal with death, torture and suffering. Take an uplifting stroll instead down Alberta iela, Riga’s best art nouveau street gratis. Although for most of you the view of Riga’s legendary high-heeled, mini-skirted women will do, the vista from the 26th floor Skyline Bar is nothing to sneeze at. The sprawling Central Market is good for odd purchases like hemp butter and suspiciously cheap software. If you’re into classic cars including Stalin’s armoured limousine try the Riga Motor Museum. For culture and quality time, spend a couple of hours at the National Art Museum paying special attention to paintings by Purvītis and Rozentāls. The view from the top of St. Peter’s spire is also a must see. Do Latvians love to eat, so do as the locals do and try some of the national cuisine. Order delicious speķa pīrāgi (ham and onion pastries) at Mārtiņa beķereja on Marijas or pelēkie zirņi (fried grey peas, onions and bacon) at Alus Ordenis. When Dome Cathedral’s pipe organ was installed in the 19th century it was the largest instrument of its kind in the world. For only 4Ls you can take in an organ concert here and see for yourself why Franz Liszt composed music in its honour. 1 Cheap Lads Let’s face it. You’ll probably give the premiere of La Traviata a pass. But how about some live sports? Latvia’s best hockey team, Dynamo Riga, play fairly frequently at Arena Riga and Latvia has a World Cup qualifier on October 15 at the Skonto Stadium (see p.68 for more information). Couples I f you don’t mind spending some hard-earned cash and you prefer modern design then book a room at the Reval Hotel Elizabete on Vērmanes Park or Latvia’s best boutique hotel, Bergs. For something less central without the luxuries, but much more affordable, Hotel Forums is a good option as is the Hotel Bura on the other side of the river. The Europa Royale Riga is the swankiest old world hotel in Riga. Once the mansion of a 19th-century publishing magnate, it has now been completely restored and includes original tile fireplaces, parquet floors and crystal chandeliers. For modern, luxury apartments try Boutique Hotel Bergs. There’s literally an elephant in the room. Although Elefant Hotel has taken some liberties with spelling and isn’t exactly central, it does offer excellent rooms, a 6m-tall, 600kg elephant sculpture in the bar area and a Polynesian restaurant. Different indeed. If the rain and cold has got you down take a 30-minute train ride to Bulduri in Jūrmala and take advantage of swimming pools, water slides, saunas and poolside cocktails at Līvu Akvaparks (see the Jūrmala section on p.72). Splurge The 18th-centur y palace at Rundāle is Latvia’s most incredible baroque monument. Designed by Bartolomeo Rastrelli, architect of the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg, its opulence will make your jaw drop. Hire your own personal English-speaking driver to take you there (Area Tours, tel. 29 58 04 48). Most of Riga’s visitors choose to take the lift up the top of St. Peter’s spire for great views, but very few people realise that you can also take in fantastic views of the city from the 17th floor of Riga’s most prominent Soviet eyesore – the Academy of Sciences building. Take a cab to the picturesque town of Sigulda and pamper yourself with spa treatments at the trendy Hotel Segevold. While you’re in the area you can also ‘skydive’ at Northern Europe’s only vertical wind tunnel for about 15Ls/2 minutes, but book ahead. Different If you’re looking for a type of activity that seems at odds with the medieval charms of this 800-year-old Hanseatic port, why not take a seat on Persian carpets and smoke a hookah while watching beautiful belly dancers do their thing at Habibi. October - November 2008 1 where to stAy Business travellers with company expense accounts at their disposal will have no problem finding a luxurious place to rest their pampered heads, but people on a budget will have to do some digging to find a small hotel or B&B with decent rates. Luckily, backpackers now have several well-maintained hostels from which to choose. Unless noted, prices include breakfast and 5% VAT. Symbol key P Air conditioning C Swimming pool F Fitness centre R Internet access K Restaurant Lattelecom WiFi A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking D Sauna W Free wireless internet Cream of the crop Boutique Hotel Bergs C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazārs), tel. 67 77 09 00, fax 67 77 09 40, reservation@ hotelbergs.lv, www.hotelbergs.lv. Spacious, tasteful and luxurious. Pamper yourself in this sleek, centrally located yet quiet hotel in the trendy Berga bazārs shopping plaza. Offering an array of amenities, Bergs’ spacious interiors are a contrast of light and dark, wood and linen. Discuss matters of grave importance in the larger 120m2 conference/banquet hall, then unwind in its stylish restaurant - one of Riga’s best. Bergs recently became a member of the alliance of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Q38 rooms (38 apartments 123 - 250Ls). PHARUFLGKDXW Reval Hotel Rīdzene G-3, Reimersa 1, tel. 67 32 44 33/67 77 23 45, fax 67 32 26 00, latvija.sales@revalhotels.com, www.revalhotels.com. A 1980s edifice houses one of Riga’s most deluxe hotels. Expect comfy rooms with cherry wood decorations and an excellent top-floor sauna and fitness complex with 180° views. The friendly staff has an eye for detail - our favourite improvement to the former Soviet elite hotel is the happy rubber duck in each bathroom. Q 95 rooms (13 singles from €129, 56 doubles from €139, 22 junior suites from €269, 3 suites from €549, 1 apartment from €989). PHARUFLGKD Europa Royale Riga C-4, Barona 12, tel. 67 07 94 44, fax 67 07 94 49, riga@europaroyale.com, www.europaroyale.com. Live like a king or, at the very least, a fabulously wealthy 19th-century tycoon in this historic manor house in the centre of Riga that once belonged to the Benjamins family. Although the structure has been upgraded with modern conveniences, the parquet floors, wooden columns, stained glass windows, ornate fireplaces and gilded ceilings have all been restored to their original glory. All rooms are spacious, elegantly decorated and include all of the amenities you would expect from a luxurious hotel. Q60 rooms (1 single 70Ls, 46 doubles 74Ls, 6 suites 210Ls, 1 apartment 492Ls, 6 junior suites 95Ls). POHAR6FLKDW Grand Palace Hotel I-2, Pils 12, tel. 67 04 40 00, www.grandpalaceriga.com. The regal entrance has seen the likes of Catherine Deneuve and rocker Sting pass through it. All rooms are lavishly decorated in blue, white and gold, and truly are fit for a king. Satellite TV, free wireless internet access, minibar, trouser press, safe and full bathroom are all standard, with a fitness centre, sauna and steam room also available. Q56 rooms (singles 158 - 172Ls, doubles 190 - 207Ls, suites 316Ls, apartments 443Ls, junior suites 229Ls). PJHAFGKDW 08 76 06, www.derome.lv. Located in Old Riga a stone’s throw from the Freedom Monument, Hotel de Rome offers tastefully decorated rooms with cable TV, wireless internet, phone, mini-bar and local artwork on the walls. Business class accommodation has the added benefit of a trouser press and heat lamps in the bathrooms, while suites provide extra space and incredible views.Q88 rooms (6 singles 100Ls, 63 doubles 121Ls, 18 suites 162Ls, 1 apartment 598Ls). JHARUFLGKDW RC Royal Square Hotel & Suites I-2, Kaļķu 3a, tel. 67 21 45 55, fax 67 21 47 77, hotel@royalsquare.lv, www. royalsquare.lv. Located on Old Riga’s main pedestrian street, Royal Square offers over 30 rooms decorated in mild pastel colours with large flat screen TVs, mini-bar, phone, safe, trouser press and spacious bathrooms with bathtubs and bidet. Some rooms also offer French balconies, while slippers, bathrobes and little satchels of lavender on each pillow all come standard. Suites include extra perks such as private saunas. A lobby bar and upmarket cellar restaurant with unique interior design are also available. Q30 rooms (2 singles €135, 24 doubles €155, 1 suite €799, 2 junior suites €549, 1 presidential suite €1500). PJHA� R6ULKDXW Upmarket Ainavas Boutique Hotel (Landscapes) J-2, Peldu 23, tel. 67 81 43 16, fax 67 81 43 17, reservations@ainavas. lv, www.ainavas.lv. This boutique hotel is completely unique to Riga. Each room single, double or suite is decorated according to the colours, tones and moods of the beautiful Latvian landscape picture hanging over the bed. In addition to inspiring interior design, each room includes a phone, satellite TV with e-mail capabilities, dataport and private bathroom with bath. Although one would be hard pressed to find a reason for leaving one’s room, guests can also enjoy a drink in front of a roaring fire in the 15th-century lobby bar, cellar restaurant or in the charming courtyard. Q22 rooms (4 singles 84Ls, 9 doubles 110Ls, 3 suites 137Ls, 1 apartment 168Ls, 5 junior suites 123Ls). PJHARLGK Hotel de Rome H-3, Kaļķu 28, tel. 67 08 76 00, fax 67 Albert Hotel B-4, Dzirnavu 33, tel. 67 33 17 17, fax Hotel help Did you have a bad experience at a bed & breakfast or hostel? Leave your laptop at a hotel but can’t remember its name? Are you just looking for more information about accommodation in Latvia? Contact the Association of Hotels & Restaurants of Latvia: tel. 67 01 41 31, www.hotel.lv. 67 33 17 18, info@alberthotel.lv, www.alberthotel.lv. Nearly everything in this huge 11-storey hotel revolves around a common theme - Albert Einstein and his theories. Each of the 246 rooms includes a quote from the father of modern science, the conference facilities are named space, time and light, the ‘do not disturb’ signs simply say ‘I’m thinking’ and even the carpets include a pattern of working atoms. All rooms are tastefully decorated with relaxing autumnal colours and have the standard amenities you would expect from a great hotel. Q246 rooms (7 singles 91Ls, 225 doubles 101Ls, 3 triples 122Ls, 2 disabled-friendly 91Ls, 9 junior suites 133Ls). PHARULGK Riga In Your Pocket 1 where to stAy Avalon Hotel J-3, Kalēju 70/72, tel. 67 16 99 99, fax 67 16 05 71, reservations@hotelavalon.eu, www. hotelavalon.eu. The bright and airy courtyard atrium of this stylish hotel simply takes your breath away. All rooms offer standard four-star amenities such as flat screen cable TV, phone, wireless internet, mini-bar, safe, bathrooms with either showers or bathtubs and even ironing boards. A restaurant and a bar with a separate smoking room are also available as well a sixth floor terrace overlooking the Central Market on the other side of the tracks. Q111 rooms (4 singles 56 - 63Ls, 97 doubles 67 - 77Ls, 3 triples 85 - 95Ls, 3 suites 107Ls, 4 junior suites 96Ls). PJHALKXW Centra J-2, Audēju 1, tel. 67 22 64 41, fax 67 50 32 81, www.centra.lv. We just love this hotel and its friendly staff. Modern and stylish with minimalist interior design, it offers an excellent location and spacious rooms with satellite TV, minibar, phone, climate control, wireless internet access, private bathrooms with bathtubs and excellent views of the old town’s characteristic red-tiled roofs. Suites have the added benefit of huge plasma TVs, even more space and bathrobes. Q27 rooms (3 singles 56 - 77Ls, 14 doubles 63 - 84Ls, 5 suites 91 - 112Ls, 5 junior suites 77 - 91Ls). PJARGK Boutique Hotel Viesturs I-3, Mucenieku 5, tel. 67 35 60 60, fax 67 35 60 61, info@hotelviesturs.lv, www. hotelviesturs.lv. Although the modest staff claims it wasn’t their original objective, what they’ve created is nothing short of a boutique hotel. Each room is decorated in a different style with unique lighting fixtures, furniture and even designer sinks and toilets. You can take the lift to your floor, but we recommend the winding stairs so you can fully appreciate the ancient exposed stone walls of this medieval building. Those who can’t do without luxury can opt for the suite with a sauna, jacuzzi and private rooftop terrace with fantastic views of Old Riga. Q13 rooms (1 single 41Ls, 11 doubles 59Ls, 1 suite 95Ls). PJAGKDW 67 63 18 00, www.dominahotels.com. Located in one of Riga’s most prestigious neighbourhoods, this luxurious hotel offers spacious tastefully decorated beige and blue rooms with satellite TV, mini-bar, phone, safe, internet access, bathrobes and en suite bathrooms with heated floors. A glass encased lobby and reception area connects the two buildings of the hotel and an upmarket Italian restaurant, a bar, sauna and conference rooms are also at your disposal. Q110 rooms (74 doubles 46 - 127Ls, 11 suites 102 - 197Ls, 25 junior suites 64 - 159Ls). PJHARULGKD RC Domina Inn Riga B-3, Pulkveža Brieža 11/13, tel. Elizabete Hotel B-3, Dzirnavu 2, tel. 67 82 19 09, fax Buy a guide at http://clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com Riga In Your Pocket 67 82 19 08, www.elizabetesnams.lv. This stylish design hotel is comprised of three buildings surrounding a common courtyard. Each of its many rooms is slightly different in style, but most offer modern grey minimalist interiors with at least one funky design element, usually a lamp, in a bold colour to liven things up. Guests can expect plenty of space, flat screen TVs, phone, free wireless internet, climate control and private bathrooms with hairdryer and either a bathtub or shower. Breakfast is served at the trendy restaurant on the top floor. Q PA6LGKW where to stAy Garden Palace Hotel J-2, Grēcinieku 28, tel. 67 22 46 50, www.hotelgardenpalace.lv. For those who require a little old world elegance, the Garden Palace offers up gilded ceilings, crystal chandeliers and restored 19th-century tile fireplaces. All rooms are decorated with antique-style furniture and include cable TV, mini-bar and bathrooms with shower or bathtub. Suites are spacious and offer added amenities like Jacuzzis and saunas, but we prefer the cosy top-floor rooms with expansive terraces. Q66 rooms (17 singles 45Ls, 32 doubles 60Ls, 2 triples 90Ls, 4 suites 105Ls, 2 apartments 150 - 170Ls, 4 junior suites 85Ls). PJARGKDX 1 Hotel Gutenbergs I-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. 67 81 Hanza Hotel E-4, Elijas 7, tel. 67 79 60 40, fax 67 79 40 90, fax 67 50 33 26, hotel@gutenbergs.lv, www. gutenbergs.lv. The only way that this luxury hotel could have a better location would be if it were located inside Latvia’s largest cathedral instead of right next to it. All rooms offer the usual amenities including satellite TV, writing desk, wireless internet and spacious bathrooms, but we recommend the cosy, rustically furnished rooms in the section that was once a 17th-century warehouse. In keeping with the Johannes Gutenberg theme, a small bronze book is attached to each room key. Q38 rooms (14 singles 80Ls, 17 doubles 95Ls, RC 1 suite 150Ls, 6 junior suites 120Ls). JHAK 60 44, www.hanzahotel.lv. Only a short walk from the Central Market, the Hanza Hotel is located on a historic square with a beautiful church at its centre. All rooms are tastefully decorated in warm autumnal colours and come standard with wireless internet access, cable TV, phone and bathrooms with heated tile floors and hairdryers. The top floor is available for smokers and the entire building is disabled-friendly. An upmarket restaurant and a charming cellar pub are also available. Q80 rooms (27 singles 60Ls, 47 doubles 70Ls, 6 junior suites 85Ls). HAUGKW Hotel Rīga I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. 67 04 42 22, www.hotelriga.lv. One of Latvia’s largest hotels, this immense building is located on the edge of Old Riga opposite the opera house. Although its labyrinthine hallways and large empty spaces still give off that slightly Soviet vibe, you couldn’t pick a more central location. An upmarket restaurant, casino, currency exchange and business centre are also available. Avoid the cabs outside at all costs. Q236 rooms (63 singles €100 - 120, 156 doubles €130 - 150, 4 suites €200 - 550, 13 junior suites €180). OJHALGKDW RC Countryside holidays Lauku Ceļotājs D-2, Kuģu 11 (entrance from Uzvaras), tel. 67 61 76 00, www.celotajs.lv. The Country Traveller offers B&B outside of Riga. Check out its comprehensive website to find the countryside vacation of your dreams. Ride horses, go fishing, sweat it out in a traditional sauna, enjoy a romantic evening by a roaring fire in a renovated farmhouse or a regal stay in an ancient castle. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Islande C-2, Ķīpsalas 20, tel. 67 60 80 00, www. islandehotel.lv. In keeping with its Icelandic theme, Islande offers stylish minimalist Scandinavian decor that is especially evident in the lobby area that resembles a modern art gallery. All rooms are somewhat spacious and include the usual fourstar amenities, but you can also choose to splurge on the Odin suite with its own sauna and hot tub. A spa centre, an entire allergy-free floor, two restaurants and even a cellar bowling alley are among its other perks. Q205 rooms (28 singles 72Ls, 126 doubles 82Ls, 7 triples 107Ls, 2 suites 147 - 277Ls, 42 junior suites 102Ls). PHARUFLKD October - November 2008 20 where to stAy Konventa Sēta I-2, Kalēju 9/11, tel. 67 08 75 01, www.konventa.lv. With foundations that were once part of the medieval city wall, the aging Convent Yard stands its ground against Riga’s many hotels. A maze of hallways joins the three historic buildings, and leads to a variety of rooms, some better than others. Standard amenities are available as well as disabled rooms. Q141 rooms (10 singles 63Ls, 105 doubles 67Ls, 10 suites 84 - 95Ls, 2 apartments 127Ls, 14 junior suites 70 - 77Ls). JHARULGK RC Monika Centrum Hotel B-3, Elizabetes 21, tel. 67 03 Man-Tess I-3, Teātra 6, tel. 67 21 60 56, www.hotelman- tess.lv. When one sees the charming orange, flower-draped façade of this 18th-century townhouse one might expect a similarly antique interior. That’s why the unique reception area is such a surprise. Parakeets chirp in a cage above a goldfish pond next to a fireplace and a modern lift while guests sip coffee at the lobby bar. Each room is lightly different in style, but most include hardwood floors, cable TV, free wireless internet, phone, mini-bar and large bathrooms. Q11 rooms (1 single 55Ls, 8 doubles 60 - 65Ls, 2 suites 75Ls). JAKW 19 00, fax 67 03 19 01, monika@centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. This four-star hotel housed in a completely renovated neo-Gothic building built in 1883, offers spacious rooms with satellite TV, climate control, mini-bar, phone, internet access and private bathrooms with bathtub and bidet as well as a bar, restaurant, modern conference facilities and a fitness centre. Many of the rooms also include balconies with excellent views of the park and surrounding 19th-century architecture. Named after the owner’s daughter, Monika also offers incredible suites with original decorative artwork and four-poster beds. Q80 rooms (12 singles 65Ls, 50 doubles 69Ls, 3 suites 100Ls, 1 apartment 250Ls, 14 junior suites 88Ls). PJHAR6FGKDX Nams 99 D-6, Stabu 99, tel. 67 31 07 62, fax 67 31 32 Metropole J-3, Aspazijas bulv. 36/38, tel. 67 22 54 11, fax 67 21 61 40, metropole@metropole.lv, www.metropole.lv. The oldest continuously running hotel in Riga, the Metropole has been catering to the city’s visitors from its excellent location by the Latvian National Opera since 1871. A Scandinavian influence is evident in every aspect of the hotel, whether it is the design of the cosy rooms or the cuisine offered in the restaurant. All rooms, smoking and non-smoking, include satellite TV, wireless internet access, minibar, trouser press, and large bathrooms and are tastefully decorated in pleasant pastel colours. Restaurant, conference rooms, sauna and fitness and business centres also available. Q86 rooms (41 singles 70Ls, 38 doubles 85Ls, 3 triples 105Ls, 4 suites 125Ls). PJHARFLGKD RC 04, nams-99@delfi.lv, www.nams99.lv. Erected in 1909, this beautiful Art Nouveau building now houses a luxurious hotel. One walks through the door and is transported to an earlier era when dark, wood panelled walls, antique furniture and leather upholstered couches were the norm. The hotel is most suited for families or businessmen travelling on generous expense accounts as mostly apartments are offered. All are decadently spacious, tastefully decorated with designer furniture and include satellite TV, minibar and a kitchenette. Q10 rooms (2 doubles €60, 8 apartments €140). HARLK Reserve a room online at www.inyourpocket.com Riga In Your Pocket where to stAy Radisson SAS Daugava D-2, Kuģu 24, tel. 67 06 11 11, fax 67 06 11 00, www.riga.radissonsas.com. Singles and doubles are spacious and include cable TV, minibar and full bathroom. Business travellers can choose business class rooms or suites, which are more spacious and include a few extra perks like two phone lines for internet access and other amenities. An excellent fitness centre with a pool is available as well as conference rooms and a restaurant. Q361 rooms (97 singles 87Ls, 220 doubles 89 - 124Ls, 44 suites 231Ls). POHA6UFLGKDXCW 21 Reval Hotel Elizabete C-4, Elizabetes 73, tel. 67 78 55 55, fax 67 78 55 54, www.revalhotels.com. Built from the ground up in 2008, this incredibly stylish hotel is located opposite Riga’s most beautiful park a short walk from Old Riga. Its interior was created by a trendy London design firm and each of its modern, spacious rooms includes flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, large bathrooms and many other fourstar amenities as well as views of either the courtyard or the park. A fitness centre, a hip cocktail bar and a grill restaurant called C.U.T. are also at your disposal and an ice machine is located on each floor which is unheard of in Latvia. Q 228 rooms (reval class from €120, executive class from €165, junior suites from €380). PHA6UFLGKDW Reval Hotel Latvija C-4, Elizabetes 55, tel. 67 77 22 22/67 77 23 45, fax 67 77 22 21, latvija@revalhotels. com, www.revalhotels.com. The Reval Group has completely transformed this one-time In-Tourist skyscraper into one of Latvia’s premier hotels. All rooms include phone, minibar, hairdryer, climate control and satellite TV. Business class suites are more spacious and include a few extra amenities. Allergy and smoke-free accommodation is also at your disposal, as well as three bars, a restaurant, conference facilities and room service, not to mention a new wing with dozens of shops and a seafood restaurant. Don’t miss the view from the 26th-floor Skyline Bar. Q587 rooms (4 singles 70 - 105Ls, 554 doubles 77 - 112Ls, 29 business class 119 - 161Ls). POHARUFLGKD Mid-range Avitar A-5, Valdemāra 127, tel. 67 36 44 44, fax 67 36 49 88, avitar@apollo.lv, www.avitar.lv. In designing the place, the owners used four as the magic number—no matter its size, each room has an area for sleeping, eating, relaxing and working. Originally intended to be apartments, most of the large accommodations have two rooms, and amenities like a water kettle, refrigerator, phone, cable TV and private bathrooms with showers. Q45 rooms (15 singles 42Ls, 20 doubles 53Ls, 5 triples 67Ls, 5 apartments 84Ls). HARLGK Best Hotel Ģimnastikas 9/11, tel. 67 62 14 25, fax 67 62 14 10, www.besthotel.lv. This three-star hotel provides its guests with 36 small, but bright and comfortable rooms with phone, corner writing desk, satellite TV and other amenities. It’s not the most centrally located hotel but the price is certainly right. Also offers sightseeing, cultural and even shopping tours of Riga and beyond. Q36 rooms (13 singles 35Ls, 13 doubles 41Ls, 10 triples 48Ls). A6LGKXW Best Western Hotel Māra Kalnciema 186, tel. 67 70 27 18, www.hotelmara.lv. For travellers who want the feel of something familiar, this Latvian-Canadian run establishment is a little island of comfort close to the airport. The staff radiates friendliness, and the pleasant rooms with satellite TV, modern bathrooms with showers are just like they’d be in a top Best Western, because the materials are imported from North America. Q20 rooms (16 doubles 50 - 55Ls, 2 suites 70Ls, 1 apartment 45Ls, 1 family room 70Ls). HARLKDW October - November 2008 22 where to stAy Bura Hotel B-2, Balasta dambis 78, tel. 67 42 23 95, fax 67 42 23 96, reservation@burahotel.lv, www.burahotel. lv. Built in 2007, this modern hotel, literally on the left bank of the River Daugava, offers 12 doubles and singles that all include free wireless internet, cable TV, phone, writing desk and simple, uncluttered interiors in neutral colours, not to mention fantastic views of Old Riga on the opposite side of the river. Conference facilities, underground parking, a large landscaped yard and yacht and motorboat berths are also at your disposal. Q12 rooms (12 doubles 42 - 48Ls). PHALW shared toilets and showers. A business centre with internet access, a restaurant and bar and a beauty salon are also available. Take trolleybus N°17 from Brīvības to the Kastrānes iela stop. Q162 rooms (30 singles 34Ls, 118 doubles 45Ls, 4 triples 55Ls, 2 suites 70Ls, 1 apartment 70Ls, 7 junior suites 60Ls). POHARLGK Dodo Hotel E-6, Jersikas 1, tel. 67 24 02 20, fax 67 24 02 18, sales@dodohotel.com, www.dodohotel.com. Although budget airlines have been flying to Riga for years now, local hoteliers have completely ignored the budget accommodation niche - until now. Built in 2008, this Western, French-owned low-cost hotel offers 109 rooms with flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, private bathrooms with showers and hairdryer all for under €50. A continental breakfast with French crepes is also available at an extra cost and the cafés and bars of Old Riga are only a short tram ride away. Q109 rooms (105 doubles 34Ls, 4 quads 52Ls). ARULW City Hotel Bruņinieks B-4, Bruņinieku 6, tel. 67 31 51 40, www.cityhotel.lv. Pass the suit of armour and walk into the reception and bar area that is actually a courtyard which has been converted into a bright atrium that connects all three of the hotel’s buildings. All rooms, singles, doubles and suites, are surprisingly spacious and include standard amenities such as cable TV, mini-bar, phone, wireless internet and large bathrooms with hairdryer, heated tile floors and either a bathtub or shower. A restaurant, sauna and conference room are available on the 7th floor as well as a rooftop terrace in the summer. Q68 rooms (4 singles 65Ls, 42 doubles 75Ls, 10 triples 90Ls, 2 suites 130Ls, 1 apartment 130Ls, 10 junior suites 85Ls). PHAULKDW Elefant Hotel Kalnciema 90, tel. 67 22 55 60, fax 67 NEW Conference Hotel Tomo Raunas 44, tel. 67 87 07 87, fax 67 87 07 77, hotel@tomo.lv, www.tomo.lv. Once just another local housing estate not far from the city centre, this huge hotel and conference complex has been completely renovated and offers accommodation for both budget travellers and those who require a bit more comfort and style. All rooms include cable TV, phone and private bathrooms and suites have the added benefit of balconies, mini-bars and more space. Four-bed dorm rooms are also available with 22 55 61, www.elefanthotel.lv. If the gold elephant on the pedestal in the courtyard didn’t get you’re attention, the 600kg, 6m-high white elephant in the bar/reception area certainly will. This sleek, modern glass and steel hotel offers rooms with either light or dark wallpaper and furniture, depending on the floor, and all include floor to ceiling windows, big flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, mini-bar, safe and phone. Underground parking and a restaurant serving Polynesian-inspired cuisine are also available. In case you’re wondering, it’s spelt with an ‘f’ instead of a ‘ph’ because the ‘f’ kind of looks like an elephant’s trunk, or so they say. Take bus N°22A to the RMR stop.Q158 rooms (136 doubles 32 - 39Ls, 1 suite 102Ls, 8 junior suite 80Ls, 13 superior 49 - 56Ls). PHA6LKW Riga In Your Pocket where to stAy Europa City Hotel Brīvības 199c, tel. 67 16 60 00, fax 67 16 60 01, riga@europacity.lv, www.europacity. lv. Only a short tram ride from Old Riga, this new hotel built in 2006, offers modern accommodation for affordable prices. Although all of the rooms are similar in style, each floor is given a different colour scheme. Amenities include cable TV, mini-bar, two phones (one in the bathroom) and internet access. A 1960s-style retro restaurant is available on the ground floor and a bar with a large terrace serves cocktails on the top floor. Take tram N°3 or 6 from Barona to the VEF stop just across the bridge. Q146 rooms (2 singles 40Ls, 137 doubles 52Ls, 3 triples 67Ls, 4 junior suites 97Ls). PHARLGK 23 Hotel Valdemārs F-3, Valdemāra 23, tel. 67 33 44 62, fax 67 33 30 01, reservations@valdemars.lv, www. valdemars.lv. The Scandinavian owners of this hotel have completely renovated every square meter of this historic 1901 building including its original parquet floors, fireplaces and stained glass windows. All rooms are relatively spacious and include flat screen TVs, free wireless internet, phone, mini-bar, safe and bathrooms with heated floors and either shower or bathtub. Only allergy-free fabrics are used in each interior from the pillows and sheets to the upholstery of the couches in its suites. Conference facilities, a fitness centre and a Swedish restaurant are also available. Q82 rooms (15 singles 57Ls, 44 doubles 77Ls, 1 triple 116Ls, 13 suites 114Ls, 9 junior suites 91Ls). HAUFKDW 01 41 40, www.hotel-viktorija.lv. Hotel Viktorija is housed in an historic Art Nouveau building right in the centre of Riga. Most rooms are sparsely decorated with bright pastel walls, wood furniture and wall-to-wall carpeting. Each room also includes cable TV, phone and private bathrooms with showers while suites also provide a more luxurious setting with a few extras like refrigerators, bathtubs and great views. A café and guarded parking are also available.Q47 rooms (11 singles 36Ls, 24 doubles 51Ls, 6 triples 66Ls, 2 suites 80Ls, 4 family rooms 76Ls). HALGKX Forums J-3, Vaļņu 45, tel. 67 81 46 80, fax 67 81 46 82, reservation@hotelforums.lv, www.hotelforums.lv. This modern hotel located on the edge of Old Riga offers elegantly decorated rooms with dark red and gold upholstered wooden furnishings, satellite TV, writing desk, phone and private bathrooms with bath. Although almost all of the rooms are spacious and comfortable we recommend you splurge on the top-floor suite with its own sauna or the two luxurious rooms with large tiled balconies with views of the city and the river. Not far from the bus and train stations. Q32 rooms (25 doubles 40 - 55Ls, 4 triples 70Ls, 3 junior suites 100Ls). PJARGKD Hotel Viktorija C-5, Čaka 55, tel. 67 01 41 11, fax 67 Hotel Enkurs B-5, Čaka 87, tel. 67 84 63 40, fax 67 84 63 39, info@hotelenkurs.lv, www.hotelenkurs.lv. Not surprisingly, the Anchor exhibits a slight nautical theme in its lobby but most of the hallways are decorated with paintings of Old Riga. Although it doesn’t have the most central of locations, this completely renovated hotel offers tastefully decorated doubles with satellite TV, writing desk, phone, mini-bars and private bathrooms with showers and hairdryers. A luxury suite with a jacuzzi and sauna is also available. Good value for money. Q17 rooms (2 singles 38Ls, 14 doubles 43Ls, 1 suite 60Ls). PARLGD Karavella Katrīnas dambis 27, tel. 67 32 31 30, fax 67 83 01 87, hotel@karavella.lv, www.karavella.lv. Sometimes it’s easy for visitors to forget that Riga is a port city. Those who need to be reminded can stay here and look out on the harbour every morning. All rooms have refrigerator, cable TV, and phone, not to mention private bathrooms with either shower or bathtub. Good for tour groups with buses. Take tram N°5 or 9 to Katrīnas iela. Q81 rooms (singles €65 - 70, doubles €75 - 85, suites €150). HARLKD Hotel Felicia Stirnu iela 32b, tel. 67 59 99 42, fax 67 54 81 45, mail@hotelfelicia.com, www.hotelfelicia.com. What Felicia lacks in location, it more than compensates for in service and quality. The rooms look like they’ve been stolen from a furniture show room. Phone, cable TV, private bathrooms, minibar and climate control are all at your disposal as well as a bar and restaurant. Take trolleybus N°11 or 18 to the Ūnijas iela stop. Q19 rooms (5 singles 20 - 40Ls, 11 doubles 40 - 50Ls, 1 suite 75Ls, 2 junior suites 55Ls). PHALKDC Hotel Irina D-4, Merķeļa 12, tel. 67 22 45 46, fax 67 22 36 29, reservation@hotelirina.lv, www.hotelirina.lv. Located just across the street from the train station, one of Hotel Irina’s most obvious advantages is its close proximity to Old Riga. Although each of its many rooms is slightly different in size, most offer red carpeting and yellow walls as well as cable TV, mini-bar, phone, internet access and private bathrooms with showers and hairdryers. The suite boasts a sauna, hot tub and a bidet in the bathroom, but the interior of the room is unusual to say the least. To avoid tobacco smells request a non-smoking room. Q75 rooms (25 singles 30 - 40Ls, 34 doubles 50 - 60Ls, 14 triples 72Ls, 1 suite 200Ls, 1 junior suite 80Ls). HARKD Buy a guide at http://clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 24 where to stAy Ķeizarmežs Ezermalas 30, tel. 67 51 75 10, fax 67 51 74 89, hotel@keizarmezs.lv, www.keizarmezs.lv. Bring a pen to get autographs from local football players, who stay in this modern complex on Lake Ķīšezers during their season. Rooms are so clean they glow, with phone, satellite TV, and private shower or bath. The fitness centre is an athlete’s paradise with pool, squash court, billiards table and two saunas are also open to the public. Take bus N°9 from Brīvības to the last stop, Ezermalas iela. Q33 rooms (9 singles 48Ls, 20 doubles 58Ls, 3 triples 69Ls, 1 suite 105Ls). PHAFGKDC Laine B-4, Skolas 11, tel. 67 28 88 16, fax 67 28 76 58, info@laine.lv, www.laine.lv. From the sunny staff to the unique, spacious and colourful interior, Laine is a superb, central find. Most rooms offer satellite TV, minibar and private bathrooms, though the less expensive route is to share showers and toilets. Take in the Riga skyline from newer top floor rooms, or lose yourself in the detailed bathroom tiling. Q38 rooms (9 singles 45 - 50Ls, 23 doubles 55 - 60Ls, 2 suites 65 - 75Ls, 4 apartments 60 - 75Ls). HARLGK Monte Kristo J-3, Kalēju 56, tel. 67 35 91 00, fax 67 Kert A-5, Hospitāļu 17, tel. 67 37 39 95, fax 67 37 39 94, www.kert.lv. Although not in the proper centre of town, this small hotel is still on the map. Family-run, Kert offers standard rooms with satellite TV, phone, writing desk and big beds to roll around in. Suites provide a few more amenities such as a fridge, beautiful parquet floors, balconies and giant bathrooms with large tubs and the all-important bidet. For breakfast, simply fill out a form with dozens of different options from healthy cereals to protein-packed sausages and eggs. Q8 rooms (doubles 49Ls, suites 59Ls). AR6LKW 35 90 98, info@hotelmontekristo.lv, www.hotelmontekristo.lv. Monte Kristo offers a winning combination of services that have made it a popular choice among Riga’s visitors. Reasonable prices and a great location are just two reasons to rest your head here. All rooms are decorated in a similar style with beige, maroon and gold colours and include satellite TV, phone, internet access, mini-bar, safe and private bathrooms. Junior suites are more spacious and include stereo/CD players. Q39 rooms (singles 45Ls, doubles 55Ls, triples 75Ls, suites 135Ls, junior suites 105Ls). JARK Kolonna Hotel Riga I-2, Tirgoņu 9, tel. 67 35 82 54, fax 67 35 82 55, www. hotelkolonna.com. Located on one of Old Riga’s most charming streets just off Dome Square, this new hotel certainly has plenty to offer. Each room is slightly different in size but all offer satellite TV, writing desk, phone, private bathrooms with shower and minimalist décor. The top floor rooms also have air conditioning and luxury two-storey penthouse suites are also available. Q41 rooms (20 doubles 54 - 58Ls, 11 studio 68Ls, 8 family rooms 85Ls, 2 penthouse suites 85Ls). PJAR NB Hotel Slokas 49b, tel. 67 81 53 33, fax 67 81 52 22, hotel@ nb.lv, www.nb.lv. Even for those who don’t need to shoot a game of pool before their morning coffee, this modern hotel - owned by a local billiards chain - offers a decent value across the river. A yacht theme dominates the halls and the lobby, which has ten pool tables on hand. The spic and span, smallish rooms include cable TV, phone, minibar, and private bathrooms with showers. Take tram N°5 from Grēcinieku to the Dārza iela stop. Q72 rooms (9 singles 34Ls, 57 doubles 45Ls, 3 triples 56Ls, 3 suites 83Ls). PHARLGK Riga In Your Pocket where to stAy Radi un Draugi J-2, Mārstaļu 1/3, tel. 67 82 02 00, fax 67 82 02 02, www.draugi.lv. First created as a hotel for the family and friends of the Latvian exile organisation that owns it, this affordable hotel has now expanded to three buildings on a popular Old Riga street. All rooms are spacious and include cable TV, wireless internet access, phone, refrigerator, coffee or teakettle and modern bathrooms with hairdryer and shower or tub. Accommodation in the original section has a bit of old world charm, while newer rooms offer warm interiors with Latvian wooden furniture. A Viennese-style café is available as well as a bar and lounge that looks like an English gentlemen’s club. Reserve well in advance. Q76 rooms (16 singles 42Ls, 52 doubles 52Ls, 1 triple 58Ls, 3 apartments 58Ls, 4 junior suites 58Ls). JHARLK 2 TIA B-4, Valdemāra 63, tel. 67 33 39 18, fax 67 83 03 90, tia@tia.lv, www.hoteltia.lv. All some folks look for is basic lodging for a decent price. Here you go. All rooms are decorated in blues and greys and are renovated with cable TV, phone, refrigerator, safe and private bathroom. Also has a café and conference rooms. It’s run by an insurance company, so you can sleep soundly. Q49 rooms (6 singles 45Ls, 38 doubles 55Ls, 3 triples 75Ls, 2 suites 65Ls). HALGKW RC Vecrīga I-3, Gleznotāju 12/14, tel. 67 21 65 24, fax 67 21 45 61, vecriga@vecriga.lv, www.vecriga.lv. If you’re a fan of antiquity, but can’t do without modern conveniences, this renovated 18th-century townhouse situated on a narrow, quiet street in the centre of Old Riga just might be the ideal place for you to call home. All rooms are essentially the same and include satellite TV, minibar, wireless internet, small bathrooms and wooden furniture. Q10 rooms (singles 40 - 67Ls, doubles 50 - 77Ls, suites 115 - 125Ls). PJAGKW Bed & Breakfast B&B Krisjanis & Gertrude C-5, Barona 39-1 (entrance from Ģertrūdes), tel. 67 50 66 04, fax 67 50 66 03, reservation@kg.lv, www.kg.lv. Not unlike a typical British B&B, this hotel only offers six rooms, but each is decorated in a different fashion and provides cable TV, free wireless internet access, modern bathrooms, coffee/tea set and a cosy atmosphere that one would expect from a home away from home. A common room is also available with a kitchenette and a computer with internet access. Q6 rooms (singles 28 - 35Ls, doubles 35 - 45Ls, triples 45 - 55Ls). AGW B&B Riga C-5, Ģertrūdes 43, tel. 26 52 64 00/67 27 85 05, fax 67 29 75 94, home@bb-riga.lv, www.bb-riga. lv. Located in a quiet courtyard decorated with flowers, this small family-run bed and breakfast offers a variety of spacious, completely renovated rooms with bathrooms en suite, cable TV, refrigerator and even microwave ovens. A laundry service and airport shuttle are also available and vouchers are given to guests to eat breakfast at the café across the street. Q24 rooms (6 singles 35Ls, 8 doubles 46Ls, 5 triples 56Ls, 1 apartment 60Ls, 4 junior suites 67Ls). ARLG Homestay Stokholmas 1, tel. 67 55 30 16/26 46 41 13, diga@latnet.lv, www.homestay.lv. If we could, we’d move in. The Latvian-New Zealand couple that runs this inviting and bright house in Mežaparks has created a masterpiece. Their dog doesn’t bite (although the sign Suns kož says otherwise), nor does the mother, who also helps with meals. Guests have access to the airy kitchen, or can lounge in front of the living room TV with its thousand channels. English books in every room, a shower with a skylight, and help with planning activities are extra perks. Take tram N°11 to Vizbijas prospekts, or call them to arrange transportation. Q 4 rooms (singles, doubles, triples 28 - 60Ls). October - November 2008 2 where to stAy Multilux C-5, Barona 37 (entrance from Ģertrūdes), tel. 67 31 16 02/29 40 03 43, fax 67 31 16 40, hotel@ multilux.lv, www.multilux.lv. All of the rooms in this historic Art Nouveau building in the centre of Riga are completely renovated with tasteful furniture, cable TV and en suite bathrooms. Multilux is family-owned so you’re guaranteed good service as well as internet access, housekeeping, 24-hour reception and a breakfast buffet. A great value! Q20 rooms (3 singles 30 - 35Ls, 10 doubles 36 - 40Ls, 3 triples 45 - 50Ls, 2 suites 40 - 45Ls, 2 studio 50Ls). PARG Budget ABC Šampētera 139a, tel. 67 89 27 28, fax 67 89 27 29, hotelabc@hotelabc.lv, www.janisnaglis.lv/abc. Although this place is halfway between the airport and the centre, it’s worth the drive if you’re looking for decent accommodation at a good price. All rooms have modern bathrooms with showers, light coloured interiors with wooden furniture, TV, minibar, telephone and internet as well as access to a sauna and conference room. During the summer a small pool is available, as well as an area for hooking up your camper or just laying out your tent. Q60 rooms (singles 35Ls, doubles 45Ls, triples 65Ls, suites 70 - 99Ls, junior suites 55Ls). HARUFLGKDC RC Boulnet Hotel Spāres 3, tel./fax 67 89 20 82. Not far Jakob Lenz B-3, Lenču 2, tel. 67 33 33 43, fax 67 33 13 78, reservation@guesthouselenz.lv, w w w. guesthouselenz.lv. This B&B located in a quiet residential neighbourhood is only a stone’s throw from the city’s most impressive Art Nouveau buildings and offers bright and spacious rooms, many with private bathrooms, within renovated apartments on three floors. A full kitchen is also available as well as a communal computer with internet access or free wireless in rooms. Q25 rooms (4 singles 25 - 30Ls, 12 doubles 30 40Ls, 5 triples 35 - 45Ls, 4 apartments 47 - 52Ls). ALW from the airport, this modest hotel with an adjoining bowling alley and café is a good option if you have your own transportation or don’t mind taking cabs to and from the centre of Riga. Doubles are somewhat spacious, painted in bright pastel colours and include a bed, private bathroom and not much else. Doubles in the attic are more comfortable and have the added luxury of cable TV, skylights and cosier interior design. Hotel guests are entitled to discounted frames of bowling. Take the infrequent bus N°8 from the central station to the Ventspils iela stop and walk the rest of the way. Q15 rooms (singles 35Ls, doubles 45Ls). Hotel Jūrnieks Sofijas 8, tel. 67 39 23 50, fax 67 39 KB B&B C-5, Barona 37, tel. 67 31 23 23, fax 67 31 69 53, hotel@kbhotel.lv, www.kbhotel.lv. It’s not by chance that KB stands for Krišjānis Barons. The B&B is located on the street of the same name and is owned by the great-grandson of the illustrious 20th-century collector of folk songs. Pass the restored frescos in the foyer and climb the marble stairs to find bright, renovated rooms with cable TV, new furniture, reading lamp and en suite bathroom with shower. The attic apartment also offers a kitchenette and a private terrace with excellent views. Communal kitchen and free internet access also available. Q12 rooms (2 singles 27 - 30Ls, 4 doubles 32 - 35Ls, 5 triples 38 - 40Ls, 1 apartment 85Ls). ARGW 33 36, info@hoteljurnieks.lv, www.hoteljurnieks.lv. Surrounded by neglected housing estates on the outskirts of Riga, the Sailor may not be the ideal hotel for everyone, but if you don’t mind a lengthy tram ride and you want to save loads of money on accommodation, then look no further. Completely renovated in 2004, its simple rooms offer cable TV and private bathrooms or extras such as phone and internet access on the 5th floor. Take trams N°5 or 9 from Aspazijas to the Allažu iela stop. Q90 rooms (18 singles 32Ls, 47 doubles 32Ls, 4 suites 70Ls, 2 apartments 80Ls, 15 anti-allergy 32Ls, 4 junior suites 70Ls, 2 disabled-friendly 32Ls). Breakfast not included. HAR6LGKDX Livonija E-4, Maskavas 32, tel. 67 20 41 80, www. hotellivonija.lv. Opened in late 2004, this cosy motel offers 15 comfortable rooms just beyond the Central Market, only a few tram stops from the old city. Singles and doubles are on the small side and offer bright interiors with wood furnishings, private bathrooms and cable TV. Junior suites are basically the same, but more spacious and definitely worth the extra cash. Their restaurant serves inexpensive Latvian food, which can also be delivered to your room, should you be too lazy to go downstairs. Q15 rooms (6 singles 35Ls, 6 doubles 40Ls, 3 junior suites 45Ls). ALGK Liene C-6, Avotu 75, tel. 67 31 47 64, fax 67 84 31 32, www.lathotel.lv. Liene may be difficult to find, but its prices more than make up for this. Walk into the courtyard and through the door on the left and you’ll discover a cosy banquet hall and bar as well as a sauna with a huge chest-high wooden tub for soaking yourself after a session of sweating. Rooms are small, but comfortable and recently renovated with cable TV, writing desk and private bathroom with shower. The apartments also have kitchenettes for self catering. Q16 rooms (4 singles 34Ls, 10 doubles 42Ls, 2 apartments 46Ls). ARLGKD RC Reserve a room online at www.inyourpocket.com Riga In Your Pocket where to stAy Mežaparks Sakses 19, tel. 67 55 79 88, fax 67 55 79 64, www.scmezaparks.lv. Some rooms have been renovated, and have private facilities and TV, while others have that Soviet appeal that can only come from not having more than a bed and shared showers. Best for groups that call ahead, though you’ll have to cram onto trolleybus N°2 and take it for 30 minutes to the last stop. Q30 rooms (singles 24Ls, doubles 24 - 36Ls, suites 42Ls, junior suites 46Ls). Breakfast not included. HAFLGKDC 2 Hostels Backpackers Planet D-4, Nēģu 17, tel./fax 67 22 62 32, hostel@backpackersplanet.lv, www.backpackersplanet.lv. Fancy a stay within the legendary Riga Central Market? This converted warehouse offers spacious, affordable, rustically decorated rooms, each with its own bathroom and shower. None of the dorms have more than six beds, so you don’t have to worry about your roommates. Extras include a modern lift, friendly staff, a café and bar, a laundry service, a computer for internet access as well as wi-fi, a common room with TV and kitchenette and a secure luggage room. Q (14 - 16Ls/person). AKW Central Hostel D-5, E. Birznieka-Upīša 20, tel. 22 32 26 63, c.hostel.riga@gmail.com, www.centralhostel.lv. Just look for the only orange wooden house on the corner (perhaps the only one in Riga). All double rooms are somewhat spacious and include bright coloured interiors and a candy on each pillow. Modern shared toilets and showers are located in the hallway and a small kitchen and common room with TV, CD player and games are also at your disposal. Breakfast, sauna, a smoking room with hookahs and free internet access available. Q24 rooms (17 doubles 20 - 30Ls, dorm beds 6Ls). LD cityhostel.lv, www.cityhostel.lv. Located on the second floor of a building next to the train station, City Hostel’s rooms range from doubles to 10-bed dormitories. Double and triple rooms are equipped with cable TV and radio. Lockers, microwave oven, refrigerator, free high speed internet and luggage storage also available. No curfew. Q Dorm beds from 7 Ls. ALG Skanste A-4, Skanstes 9, tel. 67 51 99 23/80 00 74 42, fax 67 52 99 21, hotel@hotelskanste.lv, www. hotelskanste.lv. Not being right in the city centre comes with its advantages. Peace and quiet, fresh air, green views, open space and the closest proximity of any Riga hotel to Arena Riga, the best venue for concerts and sporting events in the city. Skanste isn’t at the height of fashion, but to its credit it doesn’t try to be. The recipe here is genuine country-style friendliness and straightforward comfort in a family environment. Disabled guests also welcome. Q35 rooms (singles 28Ls, doubles 35Ls, triples 40Ls, junior suites 40Ls). HARULGK Coming soon Ramada Riga City Centre Hotel C-5, Ģertrūdes 70, www.ramada.com. The global Ramada chain is scheduled to open its first hotel in Latvia soon. Located in a renovated Art Nouveau building dating to 1901, it promises to offer four-star accommodation in the city centre as well as two restaurants and conference facilities. Q PAUK City Hostel D-4, Pasta 6, tel./fax 67 28 01 24, info@ October - November 2008 2 where to stAy Accommodation outside Riga Daugavpils Hotel Dinaburg Dobeles 39, tel. 65 45 30 10, info@ hoteldinaburg.lv, www.hoteldinaburg.lv. If you’re in the mood for a quiet, reasonably priced hotel only a fiveminute drive from the centre of Daugavpils then look no further than Hotel Dinaburg. All rooms include satellite TV, wireless internet, comfortable beds, phone and private bathrooms, while suites have the added benefit of minibars, bathrobes and Jacuzzis. A restaurant and a relaxation centre, which includes a sauna, hot tub, Turkish bath and swimming pool, are also available. Q57 rooms (22 singles 25Ls, 24 doubles 30Ls, 4 triples 40Ls, 2 suites 70Ls, 5 junior suites 50Ls). HAULKDCW City Lounge C-4, A. Kalniņa 4 (top floor), tel. 29 35 89 58, info@citylounge.lv, www.citylounge.lv. The husband and wife team that own this hostel have done a great job transforming a decrepit 10-room communal apartment into this relaxed, stylish hostel. Each room, dorms or doubles, is decorated according to the city it’s named after (rustic Riga, Amsterdam with a pot plant, New York with skylines on the walls) and includes views and safes. A communal kitchen is available as well as a chill out/reception area where you can watch DVDs, smoke a hookah or just play video games. Q6 rooms (2 doubles 35Ls, dorm beds 10 - 15Ls). Breakfast not included. AW Knights Court C-5, Bruņinieku 75B, tel. 67 84 64 Liepāja Fontaine Royal Hotel Stūrmaņu 1, tel. 63 48 97 77, www.fontaineroyal.lv. All of Louis Fontaine’s establishments including nightclubs and restaurants are infused with a wacky, yet hip sense of style and his latest endeavour is no exception. Nearly everything is gold. In keeping with the royal theme, all of the furniture is gilded and giant crowns serve as lighting in the hallways. Rooms are spacious with Moroccan tiles in the bathrooms, TV/DVD players and internet access. A huge steakhouse is available as well as a day spa. Q51 rooms (2 singles 30Ls, 12 doubles 30Ls, 6 triples 35Ls, 2 suites 95Ls, 4 apartments 50Ls, 9 junior suites 45Ls). HAFLKDCW 00/67 36 49 50, fax 67 84 64 01, info@knightscourt. lv, www.knightscourt.lv. Although its location is a good walk from the proper centre of the city, this hostel offers a variety of clean and comfortable dorm rooms with shared toilets and showers as well as more spacious double rooms with private bathrooms. Internet access, a communal kitchen with microwave and refrigerator as well as lockers for valuables are also available. Friendly, helpful staff and no curfew. Q49 rooms (5 singles 28Ls, 5 doubles 30Ls, 39 dorm beds 8Ls). ALG Profitcamp Līva Lielā 11, tel. 63 42 01 02, fax 63 48 02 59, info@liva.lv, www.liva.lv. The city’s largest hotel couldn’t be more central. Singles and doubles are decorated in bright colours with light Scandinavian-style pinewood furniture, cable TV, phone, writing desk and private bathrooms. Business-class rooms are more spacious and have a few more amenities like air conditioning, minibars and plasma TVs. Suites are similar. Conference rooms, bar and restaurant also available. Q 138 rooms (singles 27 - 50Ls, doubles 34 - 68Ls). HALGK I-3, Teātra 12, tel. 67 21 63 61, fax 67 21 63 62, info@ profitcamp.lv, www.profitcamp.lv. Tucked away in an Old Riga courtyard, this quiet hostel offers a wide variety of rooms from dorms with dozens of beds to doubles and triples for travellers who require a little more privacy. Each floor has shared toilets and showers as well as a TV and couches in the hallway. A communal kitchen, free internet access and laundry machines are also available. No curfew. Q20 rooms (2 singles 25Ls, 3 doubles 35Ls, 2 triples 40Ls, 2 quads 45Ls, 11 dorms 8Ls). JAR6 Riga Hostel J-2, Mārstaļu 12, tel. 67 22 45 20, riga- Sigulda Aparjods Ventas 1b, tel./fax 67 97 22 30, www. aparjods.lv. A mix of traditional, rural Latvian elements and completely modern conveniences, this excellent hotel offers beautiful rooms with satellite TV. Some of the suites even have Jacuzzis. Q14 rooms (singles 35Ls, doubles 40 - 50Ls, junior suites 60Ls). PHARLGKD hostel@gmail.com, www.rigahostel.com.lv. Don’t let the sign for the strip club in the same building discourage you from giving this modern, comfortable hostel a try. Prices for beds start at an affordable 6Ls and the location on a popular Old Riga street couldn’t be more central. Each dorm room has its own bathroom and shower and a kitchen/relaxation room is available with a TV and computer with free internet access. No curfew. Q 8 rooms (2 doubles 18 - 20Ls/person, 1 triple 34Ls, 1 quad 56Ls, 15-bed room 5Ls/person, 12-bed room 6Ls/person, 8-bed room 8Ls/person). Breakfast not included. JAG Riga Old Town Hostel J-3, Vaļņu 43, tel. 67 22 34 06, Hotel Segevold Mālpils 4B, tel. 67 97 48 48, fax NEW 67 97 48 47, hotel@hotelsegevold.lv, www.hotelsegevold.lv. Built in 2008, this trendy hotel offers 43 rooms with wireless internet, satellite TV, mini-bar, phone, writing desk and private bathrooms with either shower or bathtub. Standard rooms are sparsely decorated and offer minimalist interiors, while junior suites, suites and apartments combine cutting-edge design and modern mood lighting. A relaxation centre including a steam room, sauna, swimming pool, hot tub and four specially designed theme showers is also at your disposal, not to mention a top-notch restaurant. Q43 rooms (30 doubles 32 - 55Ls, 2 triples 60 - 65Ls, 4 suites 65 - 75Ls, 1 apartment 110 - 120Ls, 4 junior suites 55 - 65Ls, 2 disabled-friendly 32 - 55Ls). PHALKCW info@rigaoldtownhostel.lv, www.rigaoldtownhostel.lv. In the great tradition of backpackers’ havens across Europe, this excellent hostel offers a fun, safe atmosphere for frugal travellers as well as cheap, clean, comfortable beds in dorm rooms in Old Riga. Extras include free in-room safes, both standard and wireless internet access, a fully equipped kitchen, laundry machines, a sauna and the Backpackers Pub. No curfew. Q 2 doubles 20Ls, 12- and 6-bed dorms from 6Ls/person. PJARGD Apartment rental Agency Lilija Plus J-3, Rīdzenes 25, tel. 67 21 60 40/29 23 81 06, fax 67 21 60 54, lila@latnet.lv, www.lilarealty.lv. Great choice of renovated apartments in Old Riga and the city centre from studio to four-bedroom apartments. Airport transfer, cleaning services and long-term rentals also available. Professional English-speaking staff. Riga In Your Pocket where to stAy 2 Where’s Milda? M.Zaprauskis Agency STES Latvia Tel. 26 44 85 10, info@stes.lv, www.stes.lv. Furnished, recently renovated apartments in or near Old Riga for short and long-term rental starting at €30/night. All apartments are comfortable and fully equipped with modern furniture, cable TV, kitchen and bathroom. Airport transfer and cleaning service with English-speaking staff available. Apartment Riga A-6, Brīvības 196, tel. 29 45 97 50, fax 67 27 80 36, info@apartment-riga.lv, www.apartment-riga.lv. Furnished, completely renovated apartments for short-term rental with kitchen, cable TV, wireless internet, free parking, sheets and towels only a 10-minute tram ride from Old Riga from €35 - 50 /night including VAT. All apartments are located in one building and rented by the owner. Transfers from the airport also available. Apartments Brīvības 183 A-6, Brīvības 183 - 5, tel. 67 33 99 55/29 98 13 83, briv-183@latnet.lv, www. apartmentrental.lv. Stylishly renovated, fully furnished apartments for both long- and short-term rental in the centre of Riga. 22 quiet apartments from €450/month or €50/day with cable television, internet, washing machine and a weekly cleaning service. teldolcevita@inbox.lv, www.hoteldolcevita.lv. Rent a two or three bedroom apartment for the whole gang or just one room within an apartment. Rooms are clean and tastefully decorated and each apartment includes a kitchen, two bathrooms and a common room with phone, cable TV and internet access. Q Apartments (one-bedroom €70, twobedroom €100, three-bedroom €140). AL Dolce Vita C-5, Stabu 59, tel./fax 67 27 02 65, ho- Art-Factory C-4, Kuģu 11-611, tel. 29 10 20 85, rent@art-factory.lv, www.rentapartmentinriga.lv. Large database of comfortable, renovated, fully equipped one to five-bedroom apartments in the centre and Old Riga for short or long-term rental. Airport transfer and cleaning services available. Friendly, professional staff with more than seven years of experience. Riga Style Tel. 29 62 65 04/29 62 65 03, rigas- tyleinfo@gmail.com, www.riga-style.com. Large internet database of apartments of varying sizes and styles in Old Riga and the centre starting at €50/night. Sirta C-4, Barona 36, tel. 67 21 36 22, fax 67 21 69 21, sirta@sirta.lv, www.sirta.lv. Run by a British-Latvian, many expats consider this to be one of the most reputable firms in Riga. October - November 2008 30 restAurAnts Pork and potatoes still may reign in Riga, but the last years have brought immense variety to the dining scene, so that even in this cream based nation, one doesn’t have to compromise one’s cholesterol. Between genuine sushi bars and real ethnic establishments there are also weaker attempts at exoticism, and prices aren’t as low as one would expect in Eastern Europe. Tipping has become more expected, and 10% seems like a fair cut. Figures in brackets indicate the average cost of a main dish only. Arabian Habibi J-2, Peldu 24, tel. 67 22 85 51, www.kaljankafe-habibi.lv. Laid-back decadence at its best. Kick back on comfy Middle Eastern-style sofas and pillows, smoke from an authentic hookah and watch gorgeous belly dancers do their thing in the evenings. The pipe will set you back several hard-earned lats, but who said decadence comes cheap? Oh yes, they also serve food and drinks, but be warned that the tempting nuts and sweets on each table cost extra. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. Also on B/C-4, Ģertrūdes 14, tel. 67 29 01 55. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. (6Ls). X American T.G.I.Friday’s I-2, Kaļķu 6, tel. 67 22 90 71, www. rrg.lv. Local anti-globalisation fanatics may be upset, but expats and tourists can’t get enough of this American chain of bar/restaurants. The average Joe or Jānis may gripe about paying almost 6Ls for a burger, but it could also be argued that the abnormally large portions more than justify the price. Enjoy steaks, ribs, nachos and a huge selection of cocktails. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at the airport. (6 - 12Ls). AS Armenian Aragats B-5, Miera 15, tel. 67 37 34 45. Yerevan’s loss is Riga’s gain. Going to this authentic restaurant is like visiting an Armenian family for dinner, only you’re presented a bill at the end of the evening. Feast on mouth-watering lamb, veal and pork kebabs and a wide variety of other delicious cuisine from the Caucasus Mountains. Don’t miss the syrupy sweet coffees or a certain Georgian wine that used to be Stalin’s favourite.QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (6 - 10Ls). AX Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly X Smoking section Lattelecom WiFi A Credit cards accepted S Take away I Fireplace U Facilities for the disabled W Free wireless internet Erevāna B-4, Valdemāra 57/59 (entrance from Hanzas), tel. 67 33 16 77. The pictures of Armenian landmarks and landscapes are a good start, but this restaurant lacks follow-through on its menu. Only a scant few main courses are offered and these are of a standard grilled meat variety. If one were to find a silver lining it would be the selection of Georgian wines and hard alcohol prices listed by the bottle, a decidedly Caucasian touch. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 5Ls). A Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts 31 Mūķene (The Nun) E-1, Nometņu 58, tel. 67 61 83 80. Come inside the Nun for faux rock walls, chunky wooden tables and a good selection of incredibly cheap local beer. The illustrated menu offers Armenian and Latvian cuisine from succulent meats grilled outside under a canopy of smoke to pork knuckle, herring and grey peas with bacon. If you’re enjoying a night out on the town try the ‘appetiser platter for real men’ consisting of smoked meat, pork fat, onions, gherkins and two shots of vodka. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (2 - 5Ls). AIE Soho C-5, Elizabetes 6, tel. 67 24 02 50, www.soho.lv. Judging by the friendly, almost Zen-like service and the beatific smiles on the faces of the wait staff, one would think that enlightenment was on the menu, but sadly sweet and sour, garlic and kung pao dishes with beef, poultry, pork or seafood will have to suffice. The spring rolls are tasty and a bargain at 2Ls for eight pieces and the simple, minimalist interior makes one feel like they’re dining in a large lacquer box. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (5Ls). AS Asian dADa I-3, Audēju 16 (Galerija Centrs), tel. 67 10 44 33. The absurd interior and costumes worn by the wait staff prove that Dadaism isn’t dead. Although soups and main courses are on offer, most people choose the ‘food market’ which is essentially a Mongolian barbecue. Pick a sauce (coconut curry, mango ginger, etc.), take a bowl and fill it to the top with a variety of raw vegetables, noodles, meat or seafood and leave it with the chef. Within minutes it’ll be cooked and brought back to your table. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (5 - 7Ls). A The Mongolian Barbecue Duntes 19a (Sky & More), Gan Bei D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo), tel. 67 07 30 12. Although the location in a popular shopping centre may lack intimacy, this stylish restaurant is a must see for hungry yuppie shoppers who can choose dishes from two separate menus - one Chinese, the other sushi. The former offers an excellent selection of dishes not offered elsewhere in Riga; the latter original maki and nigiri concoctions that are as pleasing to the eye as they are to the palate. Try the sesame chicken or the rainbow sushi. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also on Brīvības 372 (Alfa Centre); Ieriķu 3 (Domina Shopping); Lielirbes 29 (Spice); Krasta 46 (Mols). (4 - 8Ls). AS tel. 22 06 20 30, www.mongoliangrill.lv. Pass the golden Buddha at the entrance and the friendly wait staff will explain the process of eating lunch in a modern Mongolian fashion. For 7Ls you can enjoy the soup of the day after which you’ll be given two bowls - one to fill up with raw shrimp, beef, squid and spices, and the other for noodles and sauces. Leave them with the chef and within a few minutes it’s already at your table. The dinner offer is more expensive, but it also includes more exotic meats such as those staples of the Central Asian steppe - crocodile and ostrich. Although accessible by public transport, a cab is still your best bet. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. ASW Wok Café C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. 67 28 28 78, www. vairaksaules.lv. One of the city’s best pizzerias has looked east for inspiration and opened this trendy wok café. Pick a combination of meat, noodles and sauces to be cooked to order in its open plan kitchen and Asian favourites like dumplings, spring rolls and spicy salads. The walls are covered in photographs of green florae, so it always feels like spring even if it’s snowing outside. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (5Ls). AS October - November 2008 32 restAurAnts Breakfast Bestsellers B-4, Dzirnavu 33 (Albert Hotel), tel. 67 33 17 17, www.alberthotel.lv. A big breakfast buffet served daily until 11:00 for about 6Ls. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. A Brown Sugar C-4, Baznīcas 1/3, tel. 67 28 13 08. Excellent breakfasts from Japanese nori omelettes to smoked salmon Benedict served 08:00 - 11:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A Charlestons Cappuccino Bar C-5, Blaumaņa 38/40, tel. 67 77 05 72, www.charlestons.lv. Great omelettes, coffee and pastries every day. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. A Čili Pica J-3, 13. janvāra 8 (Stockmann), tel. 67 22 01 28, www.cili.lv. Breakfast at a pizzeria may sound strange but don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. A Double Coffee C-4, Tērbatas 5, tel. 67 21 75 45. Fried or scrambled eggs, porridge, omelettes and, of course, plenty of eye-opening coffee. Q Open 24hrs. AX Index Café H-3, Brīvības 32, tel. 67 28 77 18. Fresh baguettes, pastries, sandwiches, coffee, tea and juice. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. AS K|I|D B-3, Pulkveža Brieža 2, tel. 20 22 24 24. A daily 3Ls breakfast special is available which includes either an omelette of your choice, pancakes or eggs cooked to order with bacon or ham. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A Osīriss C-4, Barona 31, tel. 67 24 30 02. Osiris specialises in omelettes but it also serves bacon and egg sandwiches, pancakes and even oatmeal and the service is excellent. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. A Belgian Bon Vivant J-2, Mārstaļu 8, tel. 67 22 65 85, www. bon-vivant.lv. Solid wood furniture, a cosy atmosphere and assorted Benelux decorations aren’t the only things that make this place an authentic Belgian beer bar. A whole page of the menu is dedicated to steamed mussels, sausages are ordered by the half metre and tasty brews from the Low Countries are served in their proper glasses. The delicious cuisine isn’t cheap, but Europeans expect nothing less from Brussels. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12Ls). AX Cafés Brown Sugar C-4, Baznīcas 1/3, tel. 67 28 13 08. This upmarket coffee shop and restaurant sells delicious home-made cakes and biscuits downstairs and offers a small menu of international cuisine upstairs in what looks a bit like a floor of a Venetian palazzo, but with views of the Riga Esplanade instead of the Grand Canal. A business lunch is available on weekdays, but the best reason to come here is for the excellent breakfasts from Japanese nori omelettes to smoked salmon Benedict served 08:00 - 11:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 8Ls). A Caramel Rouge B-3/4, Antonijas 13, tel. 29 44 60 00, www.caramelrouge.lv. Stylistically, this smart café and cocktail bar with comfortable red couches and collages of old posters advertising Alfred Hitchcock films can certainly hold its own with the city’s trendiest establishments. Unfortunately, the international cuisine, although reasonably priced, doesn’t really cut the mustard. Passé presentation and the ubiquitous presence of dill make Caramel Rouge more of a cool watering hole than a good restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (4 - 6Ls). AX Alberta). The location on Alberta iela, Riga’s most impressive outdoor art nouveau gallery, will no doubt guarantee this small café a steady clientele of tourists. The interior includes photos of the city’s most picturesque façades and even antique-style streetlamps as lighting, but the cost of a slice of bread with a few toppings seems like a lot to pay for a ‘sandwich’. If however you’re in the mood for a piece of cake, a cappuccino or a glass of Stella Artois then it might be worth a visit. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (3 - 4Ls). A Bakeries Franču Maiznīca (Cadets de Gascogne) H-2, Basteja bulv. 8, tel. 67 32 01 03. Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Larane’s French bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Old Riga, including the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this side of the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade pāté, quiches, strong coffee, and real orange juice also make this boulangerie a favourite retreat. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Also on C-5, Ģertrūdes 30, tel. 67 87 62 65. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. CL - Coffee & Lunch B-3, Antonijas 13 (entrance from Mārtiņa beķereja C-4, Marijas 19, tel. 67 28 71 61, www.bekereja.lv. Martin’s Bakery offers a modern, beige environment to enjoy classic Latvian pastries from freshly baked pīrāgi (bacon dumplings) with a variety of different fillings like ham, onions and mushrooms to delicious sweet pastries from fragrant kanēļa maizītes (cinnamon buns) to gooey kafijas maizītes (custard-cream buns). You can order anything it offers to take away, including coffee, or just enjoy a cappuccino or a cup of tea on the spot. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Also on Ģertrūdes 44, tel. 67 31 08 81. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. S Emihla Gustava Shokolahde C-4, Marijas 13/VI (Berga bazārs), tel. 67 28 75 10. It might be best to leave the kids at home as the team of chocolatiers hard at work making delicious candy in the corner may be too much of a temptation for the little dears. Friendly staff are keen to offer useful suggestions from sinfully rich drinks to enjoy on the premises or chocolates to take away. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Also on I-3, Aspazijas 24. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00; and at most shopping centres. A Rigensis I-2, Tirgoņu 8, tel. 67 22 30 50. If Latvia’s local bakeries have failed to impress with their solid black breads and meat buns, you might consider giving Rigensis a try. Fresh baguettes, potato and corn breads as well as cakes and plenty of sweet pastries are baked every day and they can be enjoyed on the rustic-style premises with a glass of wine, juice, Perrier or just a cup of coffee. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A lv. Yes, it has one of the silliest names we’ve seen in a long time, but I love you also happens to be one of the most stylish little cafés in Old Riga. Dark wooden chairs, plush blue couches, exposed brick walls and hardwood floors create a cosy atmosphere for cocktails or tasty salads and sandwiches. Two-course daily lunch specials can be had for 4.50Ls and a delicious Tērvetes beer will run you 2Ls. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (3 - 7Ls). ASW I love you H-2, Aldaru 9, tel. 67 22 53 04, www.iloveyou. Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts 33 Istaba C-5, Barona 31a, tel. 67 28 11 41. One of Riga’s funkiest cafés, The Room overlooks a trendy gallery below, offers limited seating and has no menu to speak of. The chef asks each diner what he fancies eating and roughly how much he’d like to spend and then sets off to work. Cocktails, beer and coffee can also be had at this culinary experiment where art and gastronomy collide. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A Home delivery 1Ls within Riga. Nearly 50 pizzas as well as pastas and main courses from Lithuania’s largest chain of pizzerias. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Domino Pizza Tel. 80 00 31 31, www.dominopizza.lv. Delivery charge: free for orders over 5Ls. Not to be confused with the American chain of pizzerias, Domino delivers a dozen different pizzas and sushi. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Gan Bei Tel. 67 22 52 25, www.ganbei.lv. Charge: 1 - 3Ls. Delicious Asian food from the restaurants Gan Bei, Thali and Madžari. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. LIDO Tel. 67 22 13 18/67 21 73 32, www.lido.lv. Charge: 1.50 - 3.50Ls for delivery depending on location. LIDO provides a full Latvian menu and even pizza. The first number is for Vērmanītis and the second is for the bistro on Ģertrūdes. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Pizza Lulū Tel. 80 00 58 58, www.lulu.lv. Delivery free of charge. English spoken. You can also order online. New York-style pizzas and salads. Q Open 24hrs. A Sushi Point Tel. 67 00 78 74, www.sushipoint.lv. Charge: 2 - 3Ls or free of charge for orders over 15Ls. Sushi delivered to your door from the restaurants Kabuki, Sumo and Shogun. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Sushi Tokyo Tel. 26 11 55 22, www.sushi-tokyo.lv. Charge: 1.50Ls within central Riga. Order sushi directly by phone. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Vairāk Saules Tel. 80 00 90 80, www.vairaksaules.lv. Charge: 2Ls within the centre. Order soups, salads, mains, Asian cuisine or delicious pizzas to your door by phone or internet. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Čili Pica Tel. 80 00 33 55, www.cili.lv. Charge: John Lemon J-2, Peldu 21, tel. 67 22 66 47. If you’re looking for a hip eatery/bar serving pastas, a dozen or so wraps, pizza, breakfast served all day and even baked potatoes with various toppings then pay a visit to John Lemon. Although a better beer selection would be welcome, most of the arty types that hang out here appreciate the wide variety of cocktails and exotic teas. In a nutshell, it’s unpretentious, inexpensive and definitely worth a try. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). AX Osīriss C-4, Barona 31, tel. 67 24 30 02. The first of opera director Andrejs Žagars’ many café ventures, and the only one to survive, Osiris found a successful recipe in the mid-1990s and stuck with it. Inexpensive breakfasts, sandwiches, international cuisine and a romantic ambience make this place a favourite of local big shots, politicians and intelligentsia so make a reservation for dinner. The only drawback is the horrible iron tables that were obviously created as torture devices for long legs. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (3 - 7Ls). A Hungry for more? www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 34 restAurAnts Coffee & Cake A.l.l. Cappuccino B-3, Antonijas 11, tel. 67 33 42 62. There’s plenty of the brown stuff to go around, even decaf, as well as tea, hot cocoa and lots of soft drinks. Pastries and sandwiches are also available, but its main asset is its warm, cosy atmosphere. A full breakfast and lunch menu, as well as a smoking cellar, are available at the much larger location on Barona. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also at C-4, Barona 30, tel. 67 28 14 72. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. AS Our favourites For reviews see index on p.83. Breakfast ......................................Brown Sugar or Osīriss Club ................................................................Club Essential Cocktails ............................................................... Lounge 8 Ethnic dining ............................................................Aragats Indian .................................................... Indian Tikka House Latvian food ............................ Alus Ordenis or Staburags Pizza........................................... Vairāk Saules (European) Place to smoke ..................................................... Red Fred Romance .......................................................... Melnie Mūki Sports bar..................................................Paddy Whelan’s Upmarket dining.................................... Bergs Restaurant Coffee Art J-3, Audēju 6. Why go to one of the chain coffee shops when you could already be sipping a latte, frappuccino or decaf Americano at this stylish Old Riga café whose furniture is upholstered with coffee bean sacks? Chocolate cake, pecan pie and hot and cold sandwiches are also available as well as wine and champagne. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Central Asian Ali Baba D-4, Merķeļa 9, tel. 22 05 89 72. With a name NEW Coffee Nation C-4, Valdemāra 21, tel. 67 35 81 82. This local chain of espresso bars once looked poised to conquer the city, with its fancy drinks, pastries and (gasp!) carry out cups. Perhaps its the fact that stronger competition has entered the arena, but the once mighty Nation seems to be on the decline. Great for snacks and coffee on the run though. QOpen 07:30 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Also at C-4, Blaumaņa 5; I-2, Tirgoņu 4; C-4, Dzirnavu 72. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A Double Coffee I/J-2, Grēcinieku 11 (entrance from Kungu), tel. 67 22 31 63. Double Coffee not only offers a smoking section, but also a huge selection of delicious Java, tea and real hot chocolate. Sandwiches, breakfast food and, of course, cocktails are all listed on the menu cleverly disguised as a glossy magazine. Unfortunately, you’ll have to light it up and smoke it to attract the attention of the sullen wait staff, even if you’re the only customer there. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also on C-4, Tērbatas 5. Open 24hrs; I-3, Vaļņu 11. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs; and other locations. AX like Ali Baba one might expect exotic Middle Eastern food and a carpet-laden interior to match, but that would be too much to ask of Riga. Large comfy booths, orange walls, Egyptian hieroglyphics, a painting of a Bedouin having a tender moment with a naked blond on a sand dune and a Latvian radio station on the hi-fi is closer to the mark. Order generous servings of decent Central Asian cuisine like manti (lamb dumplings) and lagman (lamb stew with noodles) or 20 different pizzas. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6Ls). A Kokanda B-5, Bruņinieku 12, tel. 67 31 34 61. Most West- erners can’t pronounce the grilled meat dishes and stews that are served here, so we won’t attempt to spell them. In short, the colourful pictures of mosques and exotic landscapes are beautiful and the food is tasty and inexpensive, so why not give it a whirl? Try the business lunch for under 4Ls. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (2 - 5Ls). A Varzoba J-2, Peldu 21, tel. 67 22 41 80. A Google search reveals that Varzob is a town in Tajikistan, not far from the capital Dushanbe, and not much else. Odd then that many of the decorations here including a traditional costume and a painting of an abandoned ship in the sands of what used to be the Aral Sea seem to be Uzbek. In any event, this tiny café serves delicious Central Asian cuisine like lagman (tomato, noodle and lamb soup) with fresh non (bread) for cheap, not to mention draught Užavas beer. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Mon 13:00 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 4Ls). A Charlestons Cappuccino Bar C-5, Blaumaņa 38/40, tel. 67 77 05 73, www.charlestons.lv. Caffeinated businesspeople, students, couples, and humble travel guide writers alike fill this pleasant hang out. As long as it’s not too crowded, they don’t mind if you play cards or linger over the abundant dessert counter. They say they serve the best cappuccino in town and we haven’t heard any objections yet, even from people that like to argue. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (3 - 5Ls). AS Riga Black Magic I-2, Kaļķu 10, tel. 67 22 28 77, www.since1752.lv. If you’d like to discover the mysterious properties of Riga’s national drink, you’d have a hard time finding a better place to sip the black herbal liquor than at Riga Black Magic. Enjoy delicious cake, chocolates and other snacks with coffee, tea or one of its special cocktails including the Black Mojito. The interior of wooden furniture and exposed brick walls evokes the 18th-century when Balzams was first concocted. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. A Cheap & Quick Fazer Café J-3, 13. janvāra 8 (Stockmann), tel. 67 07 12 99. This trendy cafeteria on the top floor of the Stockmann department store has recently undergone a complete facelift. White walls and light wood furniture are just a few of the improvements, but otherwise it’s still a great place for gourmet sandwiches, tasty soups and salads as well as stir fries, pastas and pancakes cooked to order and impressive views. Also good for coffee and cake. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (2 - 5Ls). A V. Ķuze H-1, Jēkaba 20/22, tel. 67 32 29 43. If you want to see what café life was like during Latvia’s heyday in the 1930s before the commies ruined everything, then look no further than this elegant coffee and sweets shop decorated with original period furniture. The friendly wait staff dressed in Interwar garb will be happy to help you choose from a variety of delicious gourmet chocolates, tortes and cakes, but bear in mind that nostalgia doesn’t come cheap. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Index Café H-3, Brīvības 32, tel. 67 28 77 18. Kind of like a Latvian Dunkin Donuts, only without the Boston creams and the half gallon cups of Mountain Dew. If you’re looking for fresh baguettes, pastries, sandwiches, coffee, tea and juice early in the morning then Index Café might be the place for you. Although the Latvian Post owns and operates it, you don’t have to take a number and you won’t have to wait very long for service. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (1 - 3Ls). AS Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts 3 Olé J-2, Audēju 1, tel. 67 22 95 63. If you’re expecting bull- fights or football enthusiasts, then don’t bother coming. If it’s Riga’s best buffet you’re searching for, then pick up a plate and pile it high with sweet and sour chicken, steamed vegetables in Roquefort cheese sauce, aubergine Parmesan and other delicious dishes for under 4Ls. Olé! Olé! Olé! QOpen 11:30 - 18:00, Fri 11:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (2 - 4Ls). AS Chinese Honkonga B-4, Valdemāra 61, tel. 67 81 22 92, www. honkonga.lv. Polite wait staff in embroidered silk shirts promptly serve generous portions of delicious Chinese dishes to their patrons among buddhas, dragons and hanging lanterns. More exotic and slightly more expensive cuisine includes hot pots and platters of shark steak or stuffed lamb. If you’d like some extra spice with your lunch or dinner, add a spoonful of the orange hot oil left on each of its eight tables. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (5 - 7Ls). AS Pelmeņi XL I-2, Kaļķu 7, tel. 67 22 27 28, www.xlpel- meni.lv. As the name suggests, it offers ‘extra large’ portions of chicken, vegetarian, pork, lamb or cheese pelmeņi (Russian ravioli) for ‘extra small’ prices. Also available are two kinds of soups and potato-based salads. Do as the locals do and wash it down with a beer or, if you haven’t had enough booze at 03:00, an XL shot of Moskovskaya vodka. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. Also at I-3, Audēju 16 (entrance from Vaļņu). Open 10:00 - 22:00; D-4, Stacijas 2 (train station). (2Ls). S Lielais Ķīnas Mūris (Great Wall of China) F-3, Šefpavārs Vilhelms I-2, Šķūņu 6, tel. 29 49 54 09. Help yourself to cheese, meat, potato, banana or plain pancakes, lash them with sour cream or a variety of jams and gobble them down seated between walls made to look like lumpy pancake batter. We wonder what weird incident prompted the management to put the ‘no shower’ and ‘no horses’ signs on the window. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (2 - 4Ls). Valdemāra 21 (Valdemāra centrs), tel. 67 24 00 49. Because the food is just a few degrees from true Chinese, imported Asian music videos and the red lanterns help to create that Far Eastern feeling. A good budget buffet is on until the evening with half and full servings available. If explained well enough, a dish missing from the dinner menu can be improvised by the staff. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6Ls). AS Shangri-La Vecmeita ar kaķi (The Spinster and her Kitty) H-1, Mazā Pils 1, tel. 67 32 50 77. Friendly service, daily specials around 3Ls and set just across from the President, life doesn’t get much better than this. Keep in mind that the Spinster also offers a full menu of international treats that are often neglected by her patrons. If you take advantage of her cheap beer and alcohol then be sure to watch your head on the way out. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). A Brīvības 326/328, tel. 67 55 45 47. When one considers its odd surroundings in blue-collar suburbia, this upmarket elegant restaurant may well appear to be a mythical paradise lost among the housing blocks. The owners haven’t skimped on the decorations, but the real reason to come is for surprisingly good cuisine, which the group of Chinese businessmen at the next table seemed to enjoy - an excellent sign. Unfortunately, no dim-sum menu, but it does offer lychees for desert. Take tram N o6 from Barona to the Džutas stop and go right on Džutas to Brīvības. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (4 - 6Ls). AS October - November 2008 3 restAurAnts Czech Sveiks, Šveik! (Hello Švejk!) B-5, Stabu 23, tel. 67 31 46 74. Not unlike the scores of other bars dedicated to Jaroslav Hašek’s classic character the Good Soldier Švejk that dot the Bohemian countryside, this one has a cosy atmosphere of solid oak tables and exposed brick walls, not to mention its most important feature - great beer. Užavas, Bauskas and Staropramen are on draught, cheap Baltic-Czech cuisine is on the menu and the pretty wait staff refuse to smile, just like in Prague! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). A Fast food Hesburger I-2, Šķūņu 3, tel. 67 22 16 22. It was only a matter of time before Finland’s most popular fast food chain headed south and reached Riga’s shores. Not surprisingly, its menu is not unlike that offered at the golden arches, still many Scandinavians contend that the burgers are bigger, better and juicier and we happen to agree. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 07:00, Sat 11:00 - 07:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Also on D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Train station), tel. 67 07 31 99. Open 08:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. AS 22 63 46. America’s favourite clown is still the king of fast food in Riga. Sadly, you have to wait forever to get a chicken sandwich and breakfast food proved unsuccessful. Children’s ‘happy meals’ are still a good bargain though. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. D-4, Merķeļa 1, tel. 67 21 23 56. Open 08:00 - 24:00; and other locations. Doughnut shops Mārtiņa beķereja (Virtuļi) C-5, Čaka 54, www.bekereja. lv. This popular chain of bakeries may have taken a risk opening Riga’s first doughnut shop. On the other hand, although Latvians publicly make fun of Americans and their obesity problems, privately they can’t get enough junk food from across the pond. The presence of two big display cases full of popcorn might be an unnecessary exaggeration of the Uncle Sam vision but the wide variety of delicious doughnuts, from chocolate and raspberry filled to glazed and cinnamon, is impressive. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. S McDonald’s H-3, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 18, tel. 67 Southern Fried Chicken Ieriķu 3 (Domina Shopping Centre), tel. 67 63 11 34. Chicken breasts, thighs, wings, drumsticks, strips, nuggets, wraps, sandwiches, burgers and corn on the cob: we’re fairly certain that Southern Fried Chicken is the real deal. The closest thing to ‘the Colonel’s’ you’re likely to see in this country. Take trolleybus N°18 or 23 from Čaka across the bridge. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. English Victory Pub I-2, Tirgoņu 10. Nearly every half litre of beer offered here, whether foreign or domestic costs a flat 2Ls. Although nominally English, most of the food served at Victory Pub is either Baltic or international in nature, even the so-called English breakfast. Escape the dark red rooms in the smoking lounge that provides a flat screen TV and a number of comfortable leather couches. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. (5 - 10Ls). A French Provansa C-4, Lāčplēša 12, tel. 67 24 04 12. A taste of Provence awaits you in this lovingly restored yellow wooden building in the centre of Riga. French music and wine, antique furniture and attentive service, which can border on the annoying, are part and parcel of this wonderful restaurant that bakes its own bread and cakes. Try anything from oysters and duck confit to vegetarian dishes and homemade pasta. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (5 - 10Ls). A Indian Indian Raja J-3, Vecpilsētas 3, tel. 67 22 16 17, www. indianraja.lv. All dishes, like the tandoori and curry, are so veritably Indian, it’s almost overwhelming. This is hardly Baltic-modified cuisine, which is why the bill won’t be small, but will reflect one of the best dining investments in the city. Although many of them have Indo European roots, most locals still shy away, which means you, expats and tourists, will have the peaceful interior all to yourself.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Also at I-2, Skārņu 7. (6 - 10Ls). AS Indian Tikka House (Paddy Whelan’s) J-2, Grēcinieku 4, tel. 67 21 01 50. Its location inside Riga’s landmark Irish pub may seem strange at first, but there might just be a spark of genius here. Who wouldn’t want to watch a football match with a cold beer and a chicken tikka masala with a side of freshly baked naan? Start with mouth-watering onion bhajias, pakoras and samosas and move on to classic Indian main dishes cooked in a real tandoor. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 6Ls). AXS Thali Krasta 46 (Mols Shopping Centre), tel. 67 03 02 33. It’s hard to figure out what’s odder, the fact that this place specialises in both Indian and Caucasian cuisine or that it’s a chain of restaurants located exclusively in large shopping malls. Once you get past all the hubbub of passers-by looking for discounts, you can focus on the menu, which offers surprisingly reasonable prices for tasty, exotic dishes from curries, tandooris and tikkas to hearty stews and shashliks. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 7Ls). AS Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts 3 International 4 Rooms I-2, Meistaru 23, tel. 67 22 56 87. The European cuisine is tasty, but the best reason to come here is the interior design, which looks like it was ripped from the pages of Architectural Digest. The service can be excruciatingly slow, but the exposed medieval brick, ancient oak beams and original floor fragments under glass of this historic building will give you plenty to look at while you wait. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Charlestons C-5, Blaumaņa 38/40, tel. 67 77 05 72, www.charlestons.lv. There’s something about LatvianCanadians and food in Riga. They’ve set up some of the most popular restaurants in town, as is the case with this establishment’s owner, Elmārs Tannis. With affordable dishes like real Caesar salad, Jack Daniel’s ribs, and superb pasta, Charlestons is good for impressing friends or treating yourself, especially with its tempting lunch specials. Do not attempt to play the piano - it’s where they hide the cash. Must be a Canadian thing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (4 - 10Ls). A A. Suns C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazārs), tel. 67 28 84 18. A long-time favourite of expats and locals alike, The Dog’s dark red interior has been the backdrop for many a weekend revelry over the years, but lately one has to wonder if it isn’t time to give Old Yeller a rest. The service is painfully slow, the prices for average pub meals seem to be a bit steep and the music is loud and outdated. We like Dolly Parton as much as the next guy, but does her folksy voice belong in a supposedly hip and trendy bar? QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. (4 - 8Ls). A City Jazz Club C-5, Ģertrūdes 34, tel. 26 12 91 91, www.cityjazzclub.lv. Although many people come here for live jazz concerts at the weekend, this dark cellar club decorated with red velvety walls and giant black and white photos of legendary musicians also provides delicious international cuisine like crispy sea bass with roast tomatoes and sweet basil. The chef spent several years working in the States and the Caribbean hence the shrimp cocktail and key lime pie on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (7 - 10Ls). AE Bestsellers B-4, Dzirnavu 33 (Albert Hotel), tel. 67 33 17 17, www. alberthotel.lv. Although this stylish hotel restaurant can accommodate hundreds of diners, its warm autumnal colours create a cosy atmosphere despite all of the space. The small selection of international food is by no means unique, but the menu itself certainly is. In keeping with its literary theme, each patron is given a pen and asked to place a check mark next to the dishes he would like to order. A breakfast buffet for 6Ls is also available. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). A Food & Curio bazaar Buy anything from fresh seasonal produce and antiques to vintage clothing and Soviet memorabilia at the Berga Bazārs open market twice every month. You can also taste delicious organic food prepared by chefs from some of Riga’s best restaurants. Visit the bazaar from 09:00 - 15:00 at Elizabetes 83/85 every second and fourth Saturday of the month. October - November 2008 3 restAurAnts C.U.T. C-4, Elizabetes 73, tel. 67 78 55 77, www.revalhotels.com. This upmarket restaurant located on the ground floor of the Reval Hotel Elizabete specialises in grilled cuisine from tuna steaks and salmon to beef tenderloin imported from the South American pampas. You can also enjoy a light lunch of Thai spiced sea scallops or veal carpaccio in its fantastic open courtyard. A wide selection of new and old world wines is also available. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12Ls). AW Hanza Pub Dejavu A-6, Brīvības 151 (entrance from Cēsu), tel. 67 85 29 94, www.dejavu.lv. If this stylish restaurant, cocktail and coffee bar were located in Old Riga its prices would be prohibitively expensive, but because it’s a bit off the beaten path its Italian and international cuisine is relatively affordable. Try pizza, lamb chops, sushi or pastas under the circular bar, up front by the windows or in the more formal section of the restaurant in the back. The Peking duck maki sounds like a stretch for any chef, but the simple lunch specials are certainly worth a try. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (5 - 10Ls). A E-4, Elijas 7, tel. 67 79 60 40. This cosy cellar pub is decorated with old fishing nets, cloth made to look like sails and reproductions of antique maps and lithographs, all in keeping with the nautical Hanseatic League theme. Order international food from pastas and salads to steaks and even prawns next to exposed brick walls or, in the summer, on its terrace on a charming square with a wooden church at its centre. Also open for breakfast from 07:00 - 10:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 6Ls). A Hospitālis B-4, Stabu 14, tel. 67 31 35 30, www.hospi- Esplanāde C-4, Elizabetes 55 (Reval Hotel Latvija), tel. 67 77 22 15. If you think that Esplanāde is just another hotel restaurant then guess again. The interior is neutral and can accommodate hundreds of tourists, but the cuisine it serves is simply fantastic. Start with the Italian antipasti platter and move on to delicious mains as diverse as baked sea bass and ostrich fillet in a pomegranate Shiraz sauce. A lunch and dinner buffet as well as a children’s game room are also available. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (8 - 14Ls). TA talis.lv. White tile walls, medicine cabinets with brown vials and tinctures, stainless steel bedpans and surgery lamps all create a surreal atmosphere at this bizarre restaurant owned by local doctors. Start with the herring tartar or crayfish salad and move on to salmon in Champagne sauce or chicken breast with couscous and aubergine mash. The cuisine is expensive and a beer will set you back 3Ls, but patients are used to outrageous bills from doctors and the long-legged waitresses in nurses uniforms are a major consolation. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 15Ls). A K|I|D Fīlings (Feeling) H-1, Smilšu 1/3, tel. 67 22 51 90, www.fiilings.lv. Although the cheesy name, bowtie wearing maitre d’, Manhattan-priced steaks and the semi-sluttish outfits worn by female wait staff seem to perfectly embody the pretensions of Riga’s local über-wealthy class, the food is actually quite good and the service is great. If you don’t mind a disco ball during daylight hours and live piano lounge music, it’s also a good place for breakfast and Latvian favourites like blood sausage, lampreys and pork knuckle for decent prices. Nightclub downstairs. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Wed 09:00 03:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 05:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 04:00. (5 - 15Ls). AE B-3, Pulkveža Brieža 2, tel. 20 22 24 24, www.restaurantkid.lv. Its bright white walls, modern interior design, fresh flowers and hanging paintings make one feel as if they’re dining in a trendy art gallery. The wide variety of reasonably priced soups, salads, pastas and main courses are quite tasty, but the serving sizes could be much bigger and at peak times table service is excruciatingly slow. If you’re in a hurry you might be better off hitting the 3.50Ls salad bar or trying its cheap breakfast special. A chill out room and terrace is also available upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6Ls). A Ķiploku Krogs (Garlic Bar) H-1, Jēkaba 3/5 (entrance Gutenbergs I-1, Doma laukums 1, tel. 67 81 40 90, www.gutenbergs.eu. Now that its top-floor terrace is closed for the season, you can take the steps down to Hotel Gutenbergs’ cosy cellar restaurant. In keeping with the Johannes Gutenberg theme, the menu offers international cuisine as well as dishes that were once popular with Riga’s pre-war Germanic population. Start with oxtail soup or cream of white asparagus and move on to anything from duck liver in Champagne sauce to crispy catfish fillets or even wild boar. A good wine selection is also available. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (8 - 12Ls). AEX RC from Mazā Pils), tel. 67 21 14 51, www.kiplokukrogs.lv. Although most people would think twice before paying good money for bad breath, they’ve probably never been here. All of the European cuisine on offer is somehow infused with garlic - even the ice cream is covered with honey-garlic sauce. The dimly lit interior is cosy enough by the brick wall and the thoughtful staff leave a mug of parsley sprigs with the bill to kill the fumes emanating from your mouth. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). A La Boheme G-2, Alunāna 2a, tel. 67 32 19 38, www. Shashlik anyone? When considering the Soviet occupation of Latvia and other republics in the region, one is hard-pressed to find something positive, but we’ve found a single aspect. Close ties between far off lands lead to the discovery of Caucasian cuisine. One of the most beloved dishes is Eastern Europe’s answer to barbecue, the shashlik, which most Westerners know as the shish kebab. In short, if it’s beef, pork, lamb, fish or vegetables cooked on a skewer then it’s a shashlik. laboheme.lv. La Boheme has a little something for everyone. To the left is a trendy café and cocktail lounge serving light food like salads, soups, pastas and sandwiches for reasonable prices and to the right is an elegant upmarket restaurant offering delicious international cuisine like black currant glazed duck and rack of lamb in a Pinot Noir and mint sauce. It’s also refreshing to see that beer drinkers haven’t been forgotten. The hoppy Tērvetes brew is on draught. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 5Ls; 10 - 14Ls). A Lidojošā Varde (The Flying Frog) B-3, Elizabetes 31a, tel. 67 32 11 84, www.flying-frog. lv. The Frog has a new owner and a fresh coat of paint, but it’s basically still the same expat hang out it’s always been. This three-roomed cellar is filled with more than just frogs — though there are lots of them, even in the bathrooms. Eat a big burger, chow on tasty chicken wings, or go healthy with grilled dishes and salads. Although Latvian beer is on draught you can also order a refreshing pint of Guinness. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). AX Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts Macaroni Noodle Bar C-4, Barona 17, tel. 67 21 79 81, www.sushi.lv. Although the name would suggest a cheap fast food-style, for lack of a better phrase, noodle bar, Macaroni is actually one of the city’s more stylish restaurants with minimalist décor and comfortable, modern furnishings. The menu offers pastas from around the globe accompanied by various national flags and little peppers to let you know where the dish comes from and how spicy it’s supposed to be. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. Also on I-3, Audēju 14, tel. 67 35 96 65. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (4 - 8Ls). A 3 Piligrims H-1, Pils laukums 4, tel. 67 32 26 61, www. piligrims.lv. After a lengthy remodelling process, Piligrims is finally back in business. Sit at private booths throughout the brown and silver interior, listen to jazz music and order food from two separate menus: one with fusion cuisine and maki sushi and the other with classic international dishes from pastas and seafood to steaks. As always, the Pilgrim’s strengths are its affordable cuisine and prime location on Castle Square. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4 - 6Ls). A Raibais Balodis (Colourful Dove) I-2, Kalēju 9/11 Melnie Mūki I-2, Jāņa sēta 1, tel. 67 21 50 06, www. carpediem.lv. Housed in the brick-walled remnants of a medieval cloister, the Black Monks is a favourite of the most particular and frugal gourmets in town. The one-time personal chef to the previous president has not only created an amazing menu of dishes from across the globe, he also explains the history of his best recipes and where he acquired them. Reservations essential. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (5 - 15Ls). AEX (Konventa sēta), tel. 67 08 75 80. Although the interior mainly consists of subtle beiges and blues, its designation as ‘colourful’ comes in the form of a wide selection of fresh flowers scattered about the place. International cuisine from venison to vegetarian food can be had here and its seasonal specials, like autumn pumpkin soup with duck meat, should not be missed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (6 - 10Ls). A RC Reykjavik Opium Café I-3, Vaļņu 18, tel. 67 21 27 38, www.cafeopium.lv. Not a beer drinker’s hang out, Opium Café’s cutting edge design, including a multi-coloured tile and stainless steel waterfall that actually puts one in mind of a urinal, is sure to please the evening cocktail crowd. The diverse menu offers a wide variety of soups like a pricey seafood absinthe concoction for 5Ls as well as tasty international mains from tuna steaks to chicken fillets. The serving sizes are generous but be prepared to wait a while. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. (5 - 10Ls). AX C-2, Ķīpsalas 20 (Hotel Islande), tel. 67 60 80 00. Its minimalist, Scandinavian-style interior of hardwood floors and subtle grey and white tones is only occasionally broken up by illuminated photographs of melting glaciers and rosy arctic sunsets. Icelandic cuisine is curiously absent from the international menu, but perhaps we should be thankful for small mercies. Order anything from healthy salads to steaks and grilled salmon. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (6 - 10Ls). A More dining options at www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 40 restAurAnts Saint Germain B-3, Antonijas 9, tel. 67 33 40 19, www.saintgermain.lv. Its whitewashed walls are covered in old-style winery ads and modern art, while bottles and old wooden cases decorate its hallways giving one the impression that they’re dining in a wine cellar. This of course is no coincidence because patrons can order wine by the glass from one menu or choose specific vintage wines from a more extensive list. International cuisine from steaks to seafood is on offer as well as lunch specials. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Da Sergio B-5, Tērbatas 65 (entrance from Matīsa), tel. 67 31 27 77. Although Italian cuisine in Riga has come a long way since the days of spaghetti covered in ketchup, many restaurants still lack atmosphere. This establishment not only offers a full menu of authentic Italian dishes and dozens of delicious pizzas, its interior is warm and, what’s the word… Mediterranean. Perfect for a family outing or an intimate date. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 15Ls). A Il Patio I-2, Kaļķu 6, tel. 67 22 07 58. Although its name Salt ‘n’ Pepper I-1, Palasta 10, tel. 67 22 11 42. Originality and good taste are in great abundance in this laid-back, almost American-style restaurant/bar behind town hall. Take advantage of the relatively inexpensive international dishes on its menu or, if you’re in the mood to pound some brews without the middleman, reserve the ‘drinking table’ inside that has its own beer tap. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (3 - 6Ls). A has changed, the vaulted brick ceilings and generally cosy atmosphere of this cellar restaurant remain the same. Its trademark pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven are still a major draw, but new exotic regional Italian dishes have also been added to the menu, which allows us to forgive them the lack of a patio. Keep in mind that the portions are meant for people who don’t mind paying for two or three courses. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). A Vanille Café Monterosso H-2, Vaļņu 9, tel. 67 50 71 70. There are I-3, Vaļņu 26, tel. 67 22 14 35. It’s like dining inside a vanilla bean. Everything is brown - the walls, floor, tables, napkins, even the clothes worn by the wait staff. The café on the ground floor serves delicious nouvelle fusion cuisine, not to mention a variety of breakfast food and a wide selection of sushi. Upstairs you’ll find upmarket cuisine like rosemary lobster will cost you substantially more. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls; 10 - 20Ls). A few better places to go for upmarket Italian dining in Riga than Monterosso. Just ask its Italian patrons. Pass the bronze panthers by the stairs and admire the old world atmosphere of dark wood panelling and gilt ceilings. The thin-crust pizzas are among the best in the city and delicious mains like sea bass with fresh tomato salad or penne pasta with lobster and cream sauce won’t disappoint. You can also order vintage wines and aged cognac, armangac and single malt scotch. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 20Ls). A Velvets I-2, Skārņu 9, tel. 67 21 50 75. Popular with tourists, Velvets has a chic industrial-style interior and an international menu that’s worth a try. It also boasts one of the city’s best summer terraces and a good selection of bottled Czech beer. If the lamb chops in Black Balzams cranberry sauce isn’t enough to entice you, perhaps the go-go dancers will on weekend nights. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (7 - 10Ls). A Paparazzi B-4, Antonijas 12, tel. 67 50 57 10. Not your average neighbourhood trattoria, Paparazzi is an elegant upmarket restaurant. Black and white tile, pictures of photographers hassling celebs and an open kitchen serve as the backdrop to an afternoon or evening of fine dining. Italian nouvelle cuisine doesn’t come cheap but you probably won’t complain after tasting the duck carpaccio or the stuffed lamb chops. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (9 - 12Ls). A Irish Paddy Whelan’s J-2, Grēcinieku 4, tel. 67 21 01 50. Since its opening in 1995, Riga’s first Irish pub has been an expat favourite. With a wide variety of foreign and domestic beers on draught, a classic Hibernian interior and more flat screen TVs showing live sports than you can shake a shillelagh at, Paddy’s has loads to offer a thirsty football fan. In addition to its usual offering of pub grub, a new menu of authentic Indian cuisine has been added to its repertoire for those craving a delicious chicken tikka masala or maybe a samosa starter. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (3 - 6Ls). AES Rosso Rubino C-5, Avotu 2, tel. 22 83 79 12. Upon NEW entering this cosy Italian wine bar decorated with black and white photos and posters, you’ll be taken care of by the gregarious Italian host and owner who will explain the day’s food and drink specials in English. Enjoy simple, inexpensive pasta dishes with fresh ingredients or something more substantial like veal and polenta. Naturally, you can also order a glass or bottle of Italian wine or just try a homemade dessert like panna cotta with a cappuccino or a shot of grappa. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 6Ls). A Italian Caffè Leonardo C-4, Ģertrūdes 22, tel. 67 27 59 63. This stylish café run by a local Italian language centre offers a sleek grey and black interior, five pasta sauces with either spaghetti, gnocchi or farfalle, five huge salads, a main course or two, panini, delicious pastries, Italian wines and spirits and, of course, excellent, yet oddly inexpensive, coffee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (4 - 6Ls). A Tiramisu C-5, Ģertrūdes 32, tel. 67 31 22 18. For an upmarket restaurant with cosy ambience and impeccable service, it offers a staggering selection of affordable pastas. Gourmet pizzas with mozzarella, blue cheese and Brie are also available as well as pricier nouvelle cuisine. The lounge music and Italian pop wasn’t to our liking, but the other diners didn’t seem to mind. Finish the evening with a shot of one of their many grappas or perhaps a Ramazzotti to aid digestion. Naturally, tiramisu is also on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Have they lost their minds? A tastefully decorated restaurant serving homemade Italian pastas, salads, pizzas and main courses for shockingly low prices in an historic house in Old Riga of all places? And the friendly wait staff even offers you bread, olives and table water for free? You haven’t had too much grappa. You’ve just paid a visit to Trattoria del Popolo, a revolutionary dining concept in Riga. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6Ls). A Internet cafés DR Centrs C-4, Elizabetes 75, tel. 67 28 25 59. Eight computers at 0.90Ls/hour as well as coffee, beer, wine and liquor! Not many gamers either. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Trattoria del Popolo I-2/3, Jāņa 6/8, tel. 67 35 05 59. Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts 41 Japanese Kabuki C-4, Barona 14 (entrance from Elizabetes), tel. 67 28 20 52. This trendy sushi bar and Japanese restaurant is so chic it could easily hold its own in San Francisco or New York. Sashimi, maki and nigiri sushi as well as hand rolls are all available as are rice noodle dishes, soups and main courses. The undecided can grab a seat in the back and pick up whatever catches their fancy as it passes by on the conveyor belt. For something hot and spicy on a cold day, try the effervescent ginger tea. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Also on C-5, Tērbatas 46 (entrance from Martas), tel. 67 84 27 28. Open 10:30 - 22:30; I-3, Audēju 14, tel. 67 35 96 63. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12Ls). AS Kebabs Food Box B-3, Dzirnavu 31-1a, tel. 29 11 33 93. After years of searching for a great kebab in Riga, we’ve finally found one at Food Box. Even if you stripped away the large panoramic photo of what we’d guess is Istanbul, the Middle Eastern music and the decorative tiles, we would still come to this casual eatery for the delicious yet inexpensive döner kebabs, falafel and exotic pide served by a young Turkish entrepreneur. The only drawback seems to be the heat produced by the ovens, but it might just make the experience more authentic. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 4Ls). S Kebabs Fix C-4, Brīvības 62, tel. 67 28 81 81. Once a lone kebab shop on the fringe of civilisation, Kebabs Fix has opened up other locations around town to satisfy a growing demand for cheap, sloppy food. Take your pick of kebabs and veggie falafel with a salad and fries, or go with the Middle Eastern appetisers. Although not exactly authentic, the food is cheap and filling. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also on D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo). Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (2 - 4Ls). SW Nobu J-2, Grēcinieku 28, tel. 67 35 97 46. Not your average Japanese restaurant, Nobu’s stylish, modern interior lacks any hint of samurai swords, geisha or rice paper and it’s diverse menu, sans photos, is meant for diners who already know a thing or two about Asian cuisine. Leather couches, funky illuminated coffee tables and a cocktail bar upstairs are an added bonus should you need more convincing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (5 - 15Ls). A Korean Soraksans I-1, Miesnieku 12, tel. 67 22 90 68, www. soraksans.lv. Nealrly everything about this authentic restaurant, from its rustic interior decorated with traditional masks and paper lanterns to the delicious cuisine, is fantastic. Order the infamous kim chi, guaranteed to put hairs on your chest, or one of the many savoury meat dishes served in sizzling skillets or red-hot ceramic pots. You can also throw caution to the wind and cook your own meal at the table. We recommend the posotgogipokom which tastes much better than it sounds. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). A Samurajs I-2, Kaļķu 2 (entrance from Kungu), tel. 67 50 31 42. The Samurai’s sword has grown a little rusty over the years. But even though the beautiful waitresses dressed in kimono may have forgotten how to smile and the kitchen may be missing a thing or two from the menu, thankfully, the food is still fantastic. Delicious ramen soups, sushi, sashimi, tempura, teriyaki and other dishes are all recommended and the bright interior decorated with ceramic samurai and Japanese landscape paintings is warm and inviting. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 10Ls). A October - November 2008 42 restAurAnts Alus Ordenis H-3, Raiņa 15, tel. 67 81 41 90, www. kakis.lv. Although the food is a bit pricey for Latvian cuisine, the menu does offer some hard-to-find local dishes like cūku pupas (broad beans in butter sauce), fried herring, boiled pig’s feet and ‘bulls’ glands.’ All of the standard pork ribs, steaks and other artery clogging delicacies are also served in this charming brick cellar as well as tasty brews in big ceramic mugs. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. (3 - 7Ls). AX lv. The most central of the Lido peoples’ Latvian theme restaurants has a buffet where you order your chicken or pork shashlik and scoop up heaps of potatoes, Latvian grey peas, sour cream and salad. Unfortunately, the long queues of hungry tourists have convinced it to raise its prices substantially. Have a delicious Užavas draught beer or home-brewed Lido ale while you wait for your food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). XS Alus Sēta I-2, Tirgoņu 6, tel. 67 22 24 31, www.lido. Amber Way Tavern H-2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba kazarmas), tel. 67 32 12 60, www.sightseeing.lv. The cosy cellars of the Jacob’s Barracks are an ideal location for a place that caters to Riga’s visitors and the interior sports a generic folksy atmosphere of wooden tables, ceramic candelabras and ‘antique’ murals on the walls. Only traditional dishes and drinks are on offer and live folk music is also sometimes available in the evening. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00. (4 - 7Ls). AE RC Čau, Rasma H-3, Aspazijas bulv. 20, tel. 67 22 32 Latvian With nearly 800 years of domination by a variety of foreign powers you’d think that Latvia would have an interesting and diverse culinary tradition. However, when one bears in mind that Poles, Swedes, Germans and Russians once ruled the roost, it’s no surprise that most local cuisine consists of pork, potatoes and sour kraut served with a generous sprinkling of dill. 52, www.caurasma.lv. The faux folksy décor of this cellar restaurant and music club lacks inspiration and the 1980s music won’t be to the liking of most foreigners, but it does offer a great menu of traditional Latvian food with names taken from a popular Latvian film Vella kalpi, or the Devil’s servants. Blood sausage, pork wrapped in bacon and pigs ears with crackling will satisfy anyone’s craving for local cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (4 - 8Ls). AE Citi laiki C-4, Brīvības 41, tel. 67 24 05 92. Housed in an early 19th-century wooden building, Different Times boasts a rustic interior decorated with antiques and, for some odd reason, the occasional Jack Daniels ad. Large servings of traditional Latvian meals, meaning lots of pork and potatoes, are brought to your table by friendly wait staff dressed in provocative linen outfits. Try the Lodiņa alus, a tasty, up-and-coming microbrew. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 6Ls). AE 16. korpuss Brīvības gatve 214m, tel. 67 07 77 28, www.16korpuss.lv. This funky Latvian bar, bistro, restaurant and club has achieved a not so hostile takeover over a large section of the ageing VEF appliance factory on Brīvības with impressive results. Enjoy an inexpensive local or Czech brew at the cosy, rustically decorated pub, a local meal at the restaurant, a cheap lunch at the bistro or a cocktail in the evening at the club decorated with old transistor radios and record players once produced on the premises. Take tram N°6 from Barona to the VEF stop and walk back toward the bridge and into the courtyard. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (3 - 6Ls). A Dzirnavas (The Mill) C-4, Dzirnavu 76, tel. 67 28 62 04. Alus sēta’s sister restaurant is similar, but bigger, better and even fuller of happy Latvians. The huge buffet spans a number of rooms and even makes those who just had lunch drool. The saying over the door states that he who belches while eating will eat there next year. See you then! QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (3 - 5Ls). AS Krasta 76, tel. 67 50 44 20, www.ac.lido.lv. If Paul Bunyon built a log cabin in Latvia it would look like this! Mr. Ķirsons of the LIDO Empire has outdone himself with the biggest buffet of home cookin’ this country has ever seen. Enter the tremendous cellar and discover another restaurant with two bars which serve beer brewed on the premises. Weekends are family days with various activities for the kids including ice skating and there’s live singing and dancing every night from 19:00. Take bus N°17A from the post office next to the train station directly or tram N°3, 7 or 9 to the ‘Atpūtas centrs LIDO’ stop and walk about 10 minutes in the direction of the huge windmill. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). TES LIDO atpūtas centrs (LIDO Recreation Centre) Alus arsenāls H-1, Pils laukums 4 (entrance from Arsenāla), tel. 67 32 26 75, www.alus-arsenals.lv. Once a cheap place for students to drink, the Beer Arsenal has gone upmarket. In addition to a menu of international dishes, this cavernous cellar also boasts a great selection of classic Latvian cuisine like fried pigs’ ears and snouts with sour kraut and potatoes and a metre long sausage for the truly famished. Although the prices and clientele have changed, thankfully the beer selection is still quite good. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (4 - 9Ls). AX Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts LIDO Spice Lielirbes 29 (Spice shopping centre), tel. 67 60 92 02. All of the usual local foods are on offer as well as the ubiquitous faux ethnographic design elements, but walk behind the main cafeteria area and discover a children’s paradise. A nearly life-sized two-storey castle surrounded by an electric go-cart track is guaranteed to cure any child of ADD, if only for a few hours. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (3 - 5Ls). S 43 Teatime Amelie H-2, Zirgu 7, tel. 67 21 29 02. This cosy little teashop offers dozens of varieties of tea stored in glass mason jars behind the counter in a charming rustic interior. There’s only one table on the ground floor, but if you take the spiral staircase to top there’s another room with plenty of ambience and views of the nearby square. A small selection of homemade cakes, pies and cookies are also available and wine and whiskey are also on the menu. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Salve I-2, Rātslaukums 5, tel. 67 04 43 17, www. salverestaurant.lv. The staff are polite, the location is fantastic and the nouvelle Latvian cuisine, like the venison with blackberry jam, is tasty and, for the most part, authentic. However, the fake antique interior with its just-taken-out-ofthe-box look, not to mention the plastic flowers, cheapen the atmosphere and make you realise that you’re in a Disneyfied bar in a pretty ‘medieval’ building that didn’t even exist 10 years ago. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Apsara I-2, Skārņu 22, tel. 67 22 31 60. Lovers of Staburags C-5, Čaka 55, tel. 67 29 97 87, www.lido.lv. If there were such a thing as a Latvian heaven, this place would come a close second. Feast on huge portions of traditional Latvian food in an immense labyrinth of oak furnished rooms and niches and wash it down with some of the country’s best beer. In case you’re curious, the ceramic jugs on each table are for bones, not flowers. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (5 - 10Ls). AEXS imported dried leaves can enjoy a wide selection of teas from Asia in a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere. Visit the outlet on Skārņu for a mix of medieval and oriental decorations or try the one in the Vērmanes Garden and sit on huge oriental-style pillows in a tiny wooden house. No coffee. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. C-4, Tērbatas 2 (entrance from Elizabetes), tel. 67 21 24 36; D-4, Barona 2a, tel. 67 22 77 10. Open 10:00 - 23:00. A Vērmanītis C-4, Elizabetes 65, tel. 67 28 62 89. A great place to eat a huge meal for cheap, this restaurant looks like medieval Europe and interwar Latvia collided and produced a unique space decorated with ethnic symbols, stone and stained glass. Bop about to local ‘umm-paa-paa’ music and help yourself to Baltic cuisine as well as salad and fruit bars on the ground floor and pizza and fast food in the cellar. Great views of the park. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (3 - 5Ls). S Goija B-3, Strēlnieku 1a, tel. 67 33 33 70. If you’re a fan of Chinese tea, North African architecture, Middle Eastern sweets and have about an hour to spare then look no further than this cosy tea room whose colourful interior has been imported almost entirely from Morocco. The process takes a long time, but you can play Jenga, chess and other board games or smoke a hookah in the back room that resembles a 19th-century opium den. Dozens of illuminated tea specimens can be examined through magnifying glasses at the counter. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. A October - November 2008 44 restAurAnts Medieval Pie Kristapa Kunga B-4, Baznīcas 27/29, tel. 67 29 48 99, www.piekristapa.lv. Legend has it that a medieval warrior named Kristaps travelled all over the continent and even the Holy Land returning to Riga with trophies and riches, not to mention recipes, which are now used in this restaurant, his former house. This modern fable serves as the backdrop for this huge monument to kitsch offering king-sized portions of Latvian, Russian, European and Caucasian cuisine. Patrons can also watch sports on the big screen TV in the ‘medieval’ cellar or smoke a hookah in the ‘middle east’ room. Order the trout and you can watch them catch it in the pond downstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). AEX LIDO C-5, Ģertrūdes 54, tel. 67 28 93 96. The late-night grub joint of years past has been retired, and in its place has come a more polished 24-hour eatery, ą la the other LIDO establishments. The cafeteria feel is gone, which means that the club goers looking for breakfast Stroganoff will have to behave a bit better. Q Open 24hrs. S Melnais Kaķis (Black Cat) I-2, Meistaru 10/12, tel. 67 21 10 21, www.kakis.lv. When all of Riga’s other bars shut their doors, people come here. Head down to the Black Cat for a late-night meal and a good selection of beer and cocktails. You can also try your hand at billiards, pinball, darts, air hockey, video games or the slot machines. QOpen 08:00 - 07:00. (4 - 8Ls). AX Rozengrāls I-2, Rozena 1, tel. 67 22 03 56, www.roz- engrals.lv. If the giant wine casks on Old Riga’s narrowest street don’t get your attention, the people in funny costumes certainly will. The city’s only authentic medieval restaurant is already a hit with locals and tourists alike and with good reason. The candlelit cellar, already mentioned in ancient writings as early as 1293, was once used for special events by the town hall. Today it serves only food available hundreds of years ago, hence the absence of potatoes and tomatoes. Giant portions of delicious cuisine including pork, wild game and local fish are available as well as unique drinks that once graced the tables of both nobles and peasants. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10 - 15Ls). A Pizza Lulū C-4, Blaumaņa 5a, tel. 80 00 58 58, www. lulu.lv. Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie can be had here in a small, cosy restaurant that looks a bit like an old-fashioned American malt shop. Ideal for pizza on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch or satisfy your postpub cravings at any hour of the night. It also offers a 24-hour delivery service. Q Also at G. Astras 10; highway to Jūrmala (Viada petrol station). Open 24hrs. AS Pizza Čili Pica J-3, 13. janvāra 8 (Stockmann), tel. 80 00 33 55/67 22 01 89, www.cili.lv. If nearly 50 varieties of pizzas ranging in size from 20 - 50cm in diameter don’t impress you, perhaps the incredibly attentive wait staff will. Big servings of spare ribs, salads, pasta and soups are also available in this large space decorated with faux marble columns and other assorted Italian kitsch. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00. Also on H-3, Brīvības bulv. 26, tel. 67 22 35 04. Open 08:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 06:00; B-4, Brīvības 76. Open 08:00 - 23:00; H-3, Raiņa 15; I-3, Audēju 16 (Galerija Centrs); B-5, Matīsa 25 (Bērnu pasaule); Brīvības 372 (Alfa); Krasta 46 (Mols). Open 08:00 - 24:00. (3 - 5Ls). AS Mediterranean Amphora B-4, Elizabetes 10b, tel. 67 33 81 91. Step into the Amphora for a taste of the Mediterranean you won’t soon forget. Traditional Greek music sets the tone in three stylishly decorated rooms of this upmarket restaurant where the wait staff go out of their way to make you feel comfortable and the food is simply fantastic. Try grilled yellow-fin tuna or the sea salt-encrusted sea bass meant for two followed by baklava and kataifi for desert. An extensive wine list is also available. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00; 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (8 - 12Ls). A Paparazzi B-4, Antonijas 12, tel. 67 50 57 09. We’re Pastarellia E-1, Mārupes 3, tel. 67 42 03 72, www.vai- raksaules.lv. This small Mediterranean-style bistro located near the Āgenskalns Market is part of the Vairāk Saules chain of restaurants. The menu is similar to its other establishments but places a larger emphasis on pastas and vegetable dishes including an excellent salad bar. The staff is friendly and the whitewashed walls, tile floor and blue and white wooden furniture is the perfect antidote to a dreary, grey Riga day. Extras include a good selection of Italian wines and take away coffee. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (3 - 5Ls). AS taught as children not to play with our food, but the talented pizza-makers at Paparazzi who deftly spin their dough with both hands before hurling it into the air are a worthy exception to the rule. Try a dozen tasty thin-crust pizzas ranging from classics like Quattro Stagioni to the exotic sushi pizza made with tuna, prawns and soy sauce. Antipasti, pasta, salads and a small selection of main courses are also available. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7Ls). A Pizza Lulū C-4, Blaumaņa 5a, tel. 80 00 58 58, www. Midnight munchies Double Coffee C-4, Tērbatas 5, tel. 67 21 75 45, www. doublecoffee.com. Double Coffee not only offers a smoking section, but also a huge selection of delicious Java, tea and real hot chocolate. Sandwiches, breakfast food and, of course, cocktails are all listed on the menu cleverly disguised as a glossy magazine. Unfortunately, you’ll have to light it up and smoke it to attract the attention of the wait staff, even if you’re the only customer there. Q Open 24hrs. AX lulu.lv. Tasty New York-style pizzas by the slice or the pie served in several popular restaurants or delivered home (order online at www.lulu.lv). The most central outlet on Blaumaņa is small and cosy, and looks a bit like a 1950s malt shop. Ideal for pizza on the run: have a slice and a salad for lunch or at 04:00 after a night of clubbing. Q Open 24hrs. Also on C-5, Ģertrūdes 27; Brīvības 372 (ALFA); Lielirbes 29 (Spice). Open 10:00 - 22:00; A-5, Valdemāra 145/2. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (2 - 3Ls). AS Vairāk Saules C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. 67 28 28 78/80 00 90 80, www.vairaksaules.lv. The name means ‘more sun,’ but we prefer the title ‘more places like this please.’ Although the uniformed staff, colourful menus and interior design give this restaurant a slightly corporate chain feel, the service is genuinely friendly and the food, whether it be pizzas, pastas, seafood or vegetarian dishes, is fantastic. It also provides a kids’ play area for the little ones and a children’s menu. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7Ls). TA Lauvas Nams B-5, Brīvības 82, tel. 67 31 26 61. Located in the Lion House (there are lions all over the facade), this restaurant offers big, cheap meals in a funky, neon-illuminated interior. Choose from a large buffet which includes the ever-present shashlik as well as other meat cooked over a charcoal grill. Q Open 24hrs. (3 - 5Ls). AS Riga In Your Pocket 4 restAurAnts Russian Krievu Sēta Ķengaraga 3, tel. 67 13 49 30, www.lido. lv. The LIDO people have built a massive Russian restaurant just off of Maskavas (Moscow Street) with colourful interior of elaborately painted oak beams and hanging matroshka dolls. Although all of the classic staples such as dumplings and borscht are available as well as Russian brews and even rhubarb juice, most of the food can be classified as appetisers. Take trams N°7 or 9 to the Ķengaraga iela stop. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). Soup Tikai karotes (Only Spoons) C-4/5, Barona 31, tel. 67 32 66 15, www.karotes.lv. Not surprisingly, Only Spoons only serves soup. Order anything from goulash and borsch to tomato or meatball soup in this funky green and red cafeteria with giant teardrop lamps hanging from the ceiling. You can also try dessert soups, coffee, smoothies and non-alcoholic cocktails such as virgin mojitos and pina coladas. Unlike its sister bistros located in shopping malls, this one offers table service. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Also at C-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo). Open 10:00 - 22:00. (3Ls). S Slāvu Restorāns C-4, Blaumaņa 9, tel. 67 28 39 74. Although the interior has a modern feel, there’s enough timber to satisfy the most nostalgic traktir (country tavern) enthusiast. Start with Russian tea accompanied by a poppy seed ring covered in jam and a glass of mors, a traditional cranberry drink. A multitude of delicious dishes are offered, but we recommend the grilled trout. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (4 - 6Ls). A Soviet Nostalģija I-2, Kaļķu 22, tel. 67 22 23 38, www.nostalgija.lv. If you feel that you’ve been gypped because Riga has shed almost all of its Soviet accoutrements, look no further than this gaudy retro restaurant whose gilded murals glorifying the revolution provide the perfect backdrop for a decent meal of pelmeņi and caviar. Also serves decadent cuisine from the West like steaks and even lobster if you have enough hard currency. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6 - 12Ls). AX Traktieris B-4, Antonijas 8, tel. 67 33 24 55. On the political stage, Russo - Latvian relations may not be what one would call warm, but this authentic restaurant is popular with Slavs and Balts alike. Each table is topped with an antique samovar, the wait staff wear traditional dress and the menu includes dishes from the entire breadth of Mother Russia. Cap it off with one of their flavoured vodkas. If you don’t have time to spare, try its quick service buffet next door. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). AE Spanish El Primero H-2, Smilšu 6 (entrance from Aldaru), tel. 67 32 36 64. The feverish strumming of a guitar might seem out of place on a cobble stone street in Riga’s medieval heart, but don’t worry it’s just live flamenco music emanating from the depths of this Spanish restaurant. Exotic dishes such as chestnut soup and chorizo croquettes are certainly appetising but we recommend the delicious Balearic squid stuffed with prawns and broccoli - a house speciality. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 9Ls). AE Seafood Gastronome C-4, Brīvības 31, tel. 67 77 23 91. For years seafood lovers either had to endure outrageous prices at upmarket restaurants or had to leave the city centre to enjoy affordable food at Gastronome. Thankfully, the latter has opened a stylish restaurant in the new addition of the Hotel Latvija that serves fresh oysters, tuna and swordfish steaks, scallops, lobster and many more of your favourite sea creatures. You can also buy fresh fish and other delicacies at its shop right next door. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at Krasta 68a, tel. 67 01 96 19. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. (6 - 15Ls). A Pablo Tapas Bar B-5, Tērbatas 54, tel. 67 27 91 83. Shashlik joints Šašliki Mangaļos Mores 22 (Mežaparks), tel. 67 39 52 57. If you ever wanted to know what a Soviet restaurant was like, but with fresh, good quality food, then plan a trip to Mangaļi. Order a shashlik, spoon your ketchup from a giant communal bowl and then pick a side order - either chopped tomatoes, gherkins, marinated onions or chives. Beer and vodka are also available by the bottle. Take tram N°11 to the Mežaparks stop and walk the song festival grounds. Then walk northwest on Ostas prospekts to Mores. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. (3 - 5Ls). If you’re in the mood for inexpensive tapas, paella, Spanish omelettes or maybe flan for dessert then you could do a lot worse than this relaxed neighbourhood bar decorated with Spanish newspapers and bullfighting posters. Although a small selection of Iberian wines is also available, the shockingly low cost of Tērvetes and Kozel brews should convince even the haughtiest sommelier to become a beer drinker. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). Steak houses Steak House Dome H-1, Smilšu 2, tel. 67 32 00 37, www.steakhousedome.lv. You can order a salad, oysters or even the duck breast, but let’s face it: this is a steakhouse. Try the delicious steak sandwich with horseradish and Bernaise sauce, tuck into a big sirloin or just splurge on the huge steak served on an oak tray for 12.95Ls. The staff could smile a little more, but all in all the service is excellent and the location in a beautiful art nouveau building by Dome Square is perfect. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Have Your Say If you have had an experience to remember at any of the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website now has a module below it for you to comment on the places we write about. You can agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to hell (in the case of angry restaurant owners unhappy with their reviews). Steiku Haoss (Steak Chaos) I-2, Meistaru 25, tel. 67 22 24 19, www.steikuhaoss.lv. Europeans often make fun of Americans but for some reason they just can’t get enough of their ‘culture.’ If you like thick, juicy steaks with giant Idaho baked potatoes, wait staff in cowboy hats and boots and the occasional line dance, then walk through the swinging saloon doors and get ready for a feast. The servings are impressive, but bear in mind that the prices are also Texas-sized. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Also on J-2, Audēju 2; C-4, Tērbatas 41/43, tel. 67 27 27 07. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (10 - 15Ls). AE Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts 4 Tex-Mex Klondaika C-4, Dzirnavu 59, tel. 67 24 03 66, www. klondaika.lv. The designer of this kitschy place has seen one too many westerns, but we love it just the same. Relax outside in one of the best summer courtyards the centre has to offer, head down to the slot machine hall optimistically labelled the gold mine (zelta raktuves), go up one level to the saloon-style restaurant or down to the bar that only closes for two hours each morning. The Tex-Mex food is a few degrees shy of authentic, but its tasty, filling and relatively cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00. Bar open 09:00 - 07:00. (3 - 6Ls). PAXW Thai Sue’s Asia J-3, Kalēju 50. Its white walls are sparsely NEW decorated with South East Asian deities and the shiny floor is so pristine you could probably eat off of it. Although this elegant upmarket restaurant claims to serve both Thai and Chinese cuisine, the impressive menu has placed a heavy emphasis on classic Thai dishes including nasi goreng (fried rice), phad thai (fried noodles) and a variety of meat and seafood served with either red, green or yellow curry. In short, the food is expensive, but delicious. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (8 - 13Ls). A Tequila Boom H-1, Mazā Pils 11, tel. 67 22 70 06. We’ve had enough experience with Mexico’s national hooch to stay away from it, but if you’re looking for the shortcut to Drunkville then try dozens of different tequilas and even mezcal at this cosy Tex-Mex bar. Highest marks go to the fajitas whose marinated beef is prepared just right, but the presence of pineapple in the burritos is a definite no-no. The back courtyard has been enclosed so you can now eat nachos and chilli in the great outdoors year round. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (4 - 6Ls). AX Tropically inspired Paldies Dievam piektdiena ir klāt I-1, 11. Novembra krastmala 9, tel. 67 50 39 64, www.piektdiena.lv. Unlike any other place in Riga, this establishment is more Caribbean than a rum cocktail and has more colour than Austin Powers’ wardrobe. Renowned bartender Artis Bikšus mixes up drinks so tasty it’s hard to pace yourself. In case you can’t, don’t worry, the exotic bikini-clad women dancing on the bar in the evenings are not an illusion. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Tequila Boom II Mārstaļu 6, tel. 67 22 21 22. Bright Ukrainian Dņipro F-2, Alunāna 6, tel. 67 22 28 58. Not unlike the Orange revolution experienced by Ukraine, this once Soviet-style restaurant was closed for business for a month only to emerge from its aging cocoon a bright, inviting café. The waitresses wear traditional shirts, the old tables and chairs have been replaced by ornately carved furniture and the tasty, authentic food, despite the renovations, is just as cheap as it used to be. Order and pay at the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. (2 - 4Ls). X Latin colours and a huge, shady terrace in the courtyard are major draws for the second Tequila Boom Tex-Mex style bar. Although the pricey burritos and fajitas are a few sweets short of a piñata, they are tasty and the bar’s selection of the Mexican national drink is the best you’ll find in Riga. Order tequila by the shot, metre or platter… if you dare. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (4 - 8Ls). A October - November 2008 4 restAurAnts Upmarket Avalon J-3, Kalēju 70/72, tel. 67 16 99 99. Take a seat on one of the comfortable red benches in this hotel restaurant tucked away to the left of the immense eight-storey atrium and enjoy upmarket international cuisine and views of the tops of the Central Market’s cavernous pavilions. Try the pan-fried scallops with cucumber caviar and vanilla sauce or the Guinness marinated lamb’s rump with potatoes rosti and Jerusalem artichokes. Business lunch also available. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30. (12Ls). A Benjamins C-4, Barona 12 (Europa Royale), tel. 67 07 94 44. Named after the famous tycoon who built the landmark building in which the restaurant is housed, Benjamins offers five fabulous rooms - one of which was used by the illustrious magnate as a private study. Dine on delicious international cuisine surrounded by 19th-century opulence in the form of original stained glass windows, intricate parquet floors, stunning fireplaces and priceless chandeliers the size the of Christmas trees. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (10 - 15Ls). AE Bergs Restaurant C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazārs), tel. 67 77 09 57, www.hotelbergs.lv. Possibly the best restaurant in Riga, Bergs never disappoints. With an interior design that looks like it’s ripped out of the pages of Architectural Digest and an ever-changing menu of international fusion cuisine that will satisfy even the most demanding palates, it’s guaranteed to make your lunch or dinner a memorable one. Try the duckling breast with balsamic glaze, baked nectarines and a red currant red wine reduction. Delicious!QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (10 - 15Ls). AW Columbine J-3, Aspazijas bulv. 36/38 (Metropole), tel. 67 22 54 11, www.metropole.lv. The oldest continuously running hotel in Riga is also home to Columbine, an upmarket restaurant with old world elegance. Expect hanging chandeliers, crisp, white tablecloths and a fresh flower on every table. Although delicious dishes such as pan fried scallops, veal medallions and venison fillet are hard to pass up, you might consider its small Scandinavian menu with Swedish meatballs, shrimp salad sandwiches and pytt i panna. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Bar open 11:00 - 01:00. (10 - 15Ls). AE RC Fabrikas restorāns B-2, Balasta dambis 70, tel. 67 87 38 04, www.carpediem.lv. Amid cobble stone streets and restored 19thcentury houses and factories you’ll find this chic restaurant run by the same people who brought you that staple of fine dining, Melnie Mūki. The menu is excellent and were it not for the spectacular views of the harbour and Old Riga’s spires, one might think they’ve stumbled into a quaint Scandinavian fishing village. Patrons often arrive here in Italian sports cars or in yachts which can moor at its floating summer terrace. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (8 - 18Ls). A Gourmand B-3, Dzirnavu 2 (Elizabete Hotel), tel. 67 82 19 06. Does duck cassoulet with chestnuts and black truffles sound tasty? Port wine oxtail soup, perhaps? Those are just a couple of the starters at this gourmet restaurant perched atop the stylish Elizabete Hotel. After you’ve chosen the prefect bottle of wine from its impressive selection and ordered a main course from its unique menu you can finally admire the trendy black and white interior lit by unusual lamps and chandeliers that probably cost a small fortune. A small terrace with views is also available in the summer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12Ls). AW Riga In Your Pocket restAurAnts Otto Schwarz H-3, Kaļķu 28, tel. 67 08 76 23. If you’re fabulously wealthy or a visiting head of state and you’re desperate for a fantastic view of the Freedom Monument, then the elegant, wood-panelled Otto Schwarz situated atop Hotel de Rome might just be the place for you. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (15 - 20Ls). AE RC 4 Vegetarian Kamāla I-1, Jauniela 14, tel. 67 21 13 32. Even if, like most Latvians, you can’t imagine a world without pork, this vegetarian restaurant is still worth a visit for the impressive Eastern atmosphere. Incense smoke mingles with Indian music above ornately carved wooden furniture and colourful embroidered tablecloths of golden elephants. Rice and vegetable dishes from the subcontinent are available as well as a few international delicacies like fried Camembert with sautéed red onions. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7Ls). A Piramīda G-3, Reimersa 1 (Reval Hotel Rīdzene), tel. 67 32 44 33. This elegant restaurant is housed in a glass pyramid has been dubbed the ‘little Louvre’ by the local press. Its impressive international menu is guaranteed to satisfy even the most demanding gourmet. Breakfast buffet from 07:00 - 11:00 for 9Ls; two- and three-course business lunch weekdays from 12:00 - 16:00 for 7 - 9Ls.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 15Ls). A Rāma C-5, Barona 56, tel. 67 27 24 90. This place is Symposium G-1, Citadeles 12, tel. 67 87 80 42. Opera director Andrejs Žagars has resurrected his groundbreaking restaurant of years past in a new location. A simple black and grey interior under vaulted ceilings that once imprisoned Latvia’s best poet, Rainis, serve as the backdrop for refined upmarket dining. Try the rack of lamb with avocado hummus or maybe the venison fillet with potato and wild mushroom pudding. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (10 - 20Ls). A popular among young people, the thrifty, those seeking enlightenment and, of course, vegetarians because it’s one of the cheapest places to fill your belly in Riga and owned by the Krishnas. The rice, cabbage and tofu dishes, often seasoned with curry, chilli and saffron, range in taste from bland to delicious. Proceeds from the restaurant go to feed the poor. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (2 - 4Ls). Vietnamese Hanoja B-6, Barona 93 (entrance from Tallinas), tel. 67 27 23 24. Asia is a land steeped in mystery, but Hanoi is a conundrum of the Orient in Latvia. Although its dark, slightly shabby hall with hanging lanterns and dragon embossed columns has been open for ages, it’s often empty at lunchtime. So what’s the secret to its longevity? Pho, a staple soup of Vietnam, was a little light on beef and noodles and many of the other dishes looked suspiciously Baltic in nature and presentation. Perhaps offerings to the shrine at the far end of the restaurant keep them afloat? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). A Vincents B-3, Elizabetes 19, tel. 67 33 26 34. A culinary institution in Riga for over a decade, Vincents has hosted heads of state, captains of industry and stars of the stage and screen including Prince Charles and Elton John. In addition to an ever-changing menu of haute cuisine cooked slowly with local eco-friendly produce, renowned chef Mārtiņš Rītiņš also offers a single daily lunch special prepared with the day’s freshest ingredients from 12:30 - 14:30. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 20Ls). A October - November 2008 0 nightliFe From standard bars to more mature music clubs and raging discos, Riga has no problem providing nightlife. It’s just a matter of being able to choose where to lose your money, and your sleep. The town is small enough to cover on foot, though as the night gets longer, so does the distance between places. Here then is the pick of the bunch. Leningrad J-3, Kalēju 54, tel. 29 91 50 49, www. leningrad.lv. After nearly two decades of capitalism and double-digit inflation, some Latvians are looking back to the past. A bar with a retro Soviet interior of assorted communist relics and even period furniture is as good a place as any to enjoy a drink. The beer might not be as cheap as it was in Gorbachev’s time, but for Old Riga the local Brengulis and Czech Kozel are remarkably affordable. The beefy bartender with the shaved head and trimmed beard looks like Lenin on steroids. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. Bars Free Hawks Club B-4, Baznīcas 33, tel. 29 48 98 98. Owned by a local motorcycle club of the same name, this dark cellar bar seems an unlikely addition to this charming cobblestone square with a neo-Gothic cathedral at its centre. Enjoy a good selection of Latvian and Czech beer or order an inexpensive meal of pasta, pancakes or pork chops while trying to look tough among muscled, tattooed men wearing leather gear. The massive WWII-era machine gun hanging from rusty chains above the bar appears to be loaded. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. (5Ls). W Lobby Bar C-4, Elizabetes 55 (Reval Hotel Latvija), tel. 67 77 22 22. Unlike most reception area lounges, the Reval’s offers cutting edge design, an impressive variety of cocktails and an excellent menu that offers everything from a Nicoise salad or a Mediterranean tapas platter to big burgers and the best club sandwich in the city. You’ll pay more for a beer than at most other places, but style and comfort don’t come cheap in Riga. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. A Bond movies are shown on the TV, a poster of Stalin graces the wall and campy photos of Connery, Brosnan and even the notorious Johnny English are also present, but basically it’s a bohemian boozer serving strong cocktails and a remarkably cheap breakfast as well as a few soups and sandwiches to an arty crowd out for fun. You can also smoke hookahs in the cellar. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. AX Gauja B-5, Tērbatas 56, tel. 67 27 56 62. Step into a Latvian apartment circa 1970. Elvis records crackle on the Hi-Fi while a bohemian bartender grabs liquor bottles from what appears to be someone’s grandmother’s china cabinet. The furniture is also retro as are the Soviet style beer mugs and the antique magazines and books. Try a milky Brenguļu brew out on the sidewalk or grab a stool and knock back a 0.70Ls vodka shot. In keeping with the communal living theme, space is limited. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Mi6 Spy Bar J-3, Kalēju 52, tel. 67 22 76 11, www.mi6.lv. Jameson Bar C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from Ģertrūdes), Orange Bar I-2, Jāņa sēta 5, tel. 67 22 84 23, www. tel. 67 27 60 59. An orange glow illuminates everything in this tiny bar which would no doubt get on your nerves were it not for the strong cocktails that suppress your sensory overload. The menu is unexpectedly interesting and the Irish staples Jameson and Murphy’s Red are readily available. On weekends young and old congregate in the cellar which is three times the size of the bar upstairs. It would almost be retro cool if the owners and patrons only knew it was retro. That said, it’s one of the few late night bars in the area. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. A orangebar.lv. Yes, the bar really is orange. This tiny watering hole gets packed on weekends so get here early if want to sit down. Alternatively, you could join the beautiful patrons dancing on tables, the bar, and anything else they can find to climb upon, champagne bottles in hand. The Bohemian atmosphere attracts the young, the crazy and even a few old-timers like us who come for the best alternative music in town. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. A Pieci Vilki (Five Wolves) B-4, Stabu 6, tel. 67 29 95 La Belle Époque I-2, Mazā Jaunavu 8 (entrance from Mazā Monētu), tel. 67 21 22 80. An unusual mix of teenage boys and girls and curious foreigners congregate in this cellar bar to take advantage of cheap Lāčplēsis beer on draught. Although it often looks like a high school dance with Latvians on one side and tourists on the other, the barmen/chaperones encourage mingling with shots of Absinthe. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. 55. Owned by a prominent member of a local motorcycle club, Five Wolves is sometimes frequented by local neighbourhood types sipping beers and at other times by hard-looking, harddrinking leather-clad men with beards. The menu offers a bit of everything including fried eggs and bacon served on red-hot cast iron pans, chicken wings in extra large sizes and steak served just right. Shot takers shouldn’t pass up the vodka bottle served in a block of ice. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. A Rīgas Balzams H-2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba kazarmas), tel. 67 Casinos & Gaming halls Latvian law compels all gamblers to register at each casino they visit, so bring a passport or valid ID. Europa Club Casino C-4, Barona 12, tel. 67 50 28 37. A proper casino like the ones you see in James Bond films as well as slots, a bar and a VIP room. Q Open 24hrs. PA W Olympic Voodoo Casino C-4, Brīvības 31 (entrance from Dzirnavu), tel. 67 82 87 77, www. olympic-casino.com. Located in the new wing of the Hotel Latvija, its supposedly the biggest casino in the Baltics.Q Open 24hrs. AKX Tobago Casino Club I-3, Aspazijas 22 (entrance from Vaļņu), tel. 67 22 32 22, www.tobago.lv. Ahoy gamblers! Staff dressed in pirate garb man the tables. Q Open 24hrs. AX 21 44 94. Frequented by day by the diplomats and embassy staff who also work in the Jacob’s Barracks, this bar/restaurant provides a warm, intimate setting a few steep steps down from the old city wall. Named after the national drink of Latvia, Balzams offers far more than just potent elixirs. The atmosphere is convivial in the evenings, with well-heeled locals having a good time with cocktails made from the bitter black herbal liquor which is actually better than it sounds when mixed with something else. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. A Teātra bārs C-4, Lāčplēša 26, tel. 67 28 26 62, www. teatrabars.lv. Once upon a time you could barely make out the actors and arty types through the haze of smoke that enveloped the Theatre Bar. Now you can watch them fidget with their watches or spectacles jonesing for nicotine. Despite the mood of desperate addiction, the service is cheeky, but friendly and the local crowd is almost always up for a good night of carousing. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. A Riga In Your Pocket nightliFe Wine bars Champagne & Wine Bar I-3, Vaļņu 19, tel. 67 35 95 95. This stylish wine bar with burgundy walls and photos of vineyards prides itself on its unparalleled selection of wine and champagne. Unfortunately, the wait staff we encountered couldn’t tell the difference between Portuguese vino verde and French rosé. The menu of meat antipasti looked tempting but we were already too disappointed to stay any longer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. ASW 1 Clubs 16. korpuss Brīvības gatve 214m, tel. 67 07 77 28. This funky Latvian bar and club has achieved a not so hostile takeover over a large section of the ageing VEF appliance factory on Brīvības with impressive results. Enjoy an inexpensive local or Czech brew at the cosy, rustically decorated pub or a cocktail in the evening at the club decorated with old transistor radios and record players once produced on the premises. Take tram N°6 from Barona to the VEF stop and walk back toward the bridge and into the courtyard. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. AE Club Essential C-4, Skolas 2, tel. 67 24 22 89. We were relieved to discover that this place isn’t another typical boring Riga techno club. In fact, it’s quite stylish offering a funky chill out room and several distinct areas on two levels which are all a part of the action surrounding the central dance floor. The music is fast-paced and progressive which is what you’d expect given the talented DJs it imports from around Europe each weekend. QOpen , Thu 22:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 08:00, Sun 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Admission: 3 - 5Ls. AX D’vine C-4, Elizabetes 55, tel. 67 77 22 17. Sleek, modern D’vine is located on the second floor of the new glass and cutting-edge metal arrow jutting out of the Reval Hotel Latvija. Snack on Mediterranean tapas and salads while you sip a wide variety of wine and spirits by the glass, half-bottle or bottle. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. A Vīna Studija B-3, Elizabetes 10, tel. 67 28 32 NEW 05, www.vinastudija.lv. Enjoy a reasonably priced glass, carafe or bottle of wine in this refined, yet relaxed establishment in Riga’s art nouveau district. If you can’t make up your mind, choose one of the specials on the board, ask one of the knowledgeable staff or trust in the judgement of leading wine critics, whose ratings are published in the menu. Order Mediterranean tapas or, for a surcharge of 4Ls, buy a bottle at its adjoining shop and drink it at the bar. Q Bar open 12:00 - 24:00; shop open 10:00 - 22:00. AS Coyote Fly I-1, Palasta 3, tel. 67 22 77 94. The interior of black and white designer ads and red neon is a bit lacking, but the food is tasty, albeit expensive, and the lunch special is good value for money. The glass box for smokers looks like a science experiment gone awry when full and the dizzying disco lights above the urinals might just inspire an unwanted result. Rumour has it that the bouncers at the door only allow Latvians to enter so you might want to give it a pass. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. A October - November 2008 2 nightliFe Depo I-2, Vaļņu 32, tel. 67 22 01 14, www.klubsdepo. lv. Underground music lovers and hip youth, this is the stop where you get off. Well-known groups, DJ’s from abroad, garage bands and an alternative crowd all co-exist happily in this club, one of the latest to enter the local rock front. Two large basement rooms play the tunes, and the holding tank on the ground floor doubles as an unexpectedly fine café during the day. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Admission: 3 - 5Ls. AEX Cocktails B-Bārs I-1, Doma laukums 2, tel. 67 22 88 42, www. balzambars.lv. The stylish brown interior of leather couches and chairs spread out over three rooms is warm and inviting, the expensive cocktails, including the ones made with Latvia’s national drink, are among the best the city has to offer and were it not for the chef’s apparent affection for dill, the pricey international cuisine would also get top marks. That said, 3Ls still seems like a lot of money for a local beer. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. A Kabata (Pocket) J-2, Peldu 19, tel. 67 22 33 34, www. kabata.lv. Descend the spiral dungeon stairs and enter this Pocket filled with teenage bodies gyrating to three-year-old top 40 radio hits. Though it’s worth catching local musicians some nights, the scene of questionably legal youngsters on their third beer might warrant a pass. On the other hand, if it’s young local ladies you’re after in the small hours of the morning, then look no further. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Admission: 2 - 4Ls. AEX Cuba Café I-1, Jauniela 15, tel. 67 22 43 62. The global fascination with Fidel and Guevera is still alive and well in Riga in this dimly-lit café whose walls are adorned with black and white photos of the tropical nation and its immortal leader. Although a few assorted starters are on offer, Cuba Café is more of a cocktail bar serving island drinks in an intimate setting. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. AX Nautilus J-2, Kungu 8, tel. 67 81 44 55, www.nautilus.lv. Like most Latvian clubs, the large hold of the Nautilus only starts to heat up after midnight. Should you arrive early, try the chill out room where young women in designer fashions plant their flags at the foot of the DJ station. The main dance floor and the exclusive VIP lounge are often inhabited by local celebrities that you won’t recognise, but that’s also one of its main attractions for Riga natives: it’s relatively tourist-free. QOpen 23:00 - 08:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission: 4 - 7Ls. A Lounge 8 I-3, Vaļņu 19 (entrance from Gleznotāju), tel. 67 35 95 95. A unique, spacious interior of palm trees and skylights as well as an inventive drinks list that includes key lime, chocolate and even rhubarb and lemongrass martinis makes one half expect to the see the cast of Sex and the City flirting with eligible men at the bar. Mediterranean and Southeast Asian cuisine is also available as is a huge smoking lounge. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. AX Pulkvedim Neviens Neraksta (Nobody Writes to the Colonel) J-2, Peldu 26/28, tel. 67 21 38 86, www. pulkvedis.lv. It’s affirmative: the Colonel has gone AWOL. Since the mid-1990s, this was the only bastion of alternative music for a bohemian crowd desperate to avoid pop and techno music. The dark, industrial-style interior is still hip as is the retro cellar bar with pink shag carpeting on the wall, but what’s the point of drinking a fabulous cocktail to old Michael Jackson songs? What happened to the Clash, the White Stripes or even the Chili Peppers? QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Admission: Fri, Sat 3Ls. AE Mad House H-2, Kaļķu 11, tel. 67 22 05 54. Mad House offers a scatter-brained interior of old movie posters, niches that look like retro living rooms and kitchens and even a portrait of old Lenin. Mixed drinks are delicious but will run you nearly 5Ls each and even beer prices are over the moon. A full breakfast, lunch and dinner menu is available as well as a dance floor and a chill out room hidden in the depths of the cellar. Two for one happy hour from 17:00 - 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. A Paldies Dievam piektdiena ir klāt (Thank God It’s Friday) I-1, 11. Novembra krastmala 9, tel. 67 50 39 64, www.piektdiena.lv. Unlike any other place in Riga, this establishment is more Caribbean than a rum cocktail and has more colour than Austin Powers’ wardrobe. Renowned bartender Artis Bikšus mixes up drinks so tasty it’s hard to pace yourself. In case you can’t, don’t worry, the exotic bikiniclad women dancing on the bar in the evenings are not an illusion. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. A Scandal I-2, Kaļķu 12/14, tel. 27 00 19 11. Upon at- NEW tempting to enter the premises, a Russian-speaking woman with what looked like collagen injected lips told us in broken English and then again in broken Latvian that ‘vee hjev drest koad’. Sad indeed that we were prohibited from experiencing a night in Scandal, but if you’re up for it then our advice would be to think Dolce & Gabbana, not Tommy Hilfiger. Apparently the exotic chicken fillet on the menu isn’t enough to entice expensively dressed passers-by as the joint was empty on a Friday night. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. A Radio Bar H/I-2, Šķūņu 17 (entrance from Zirgu), tel. Pool & Billiards Klondaika J-2, Dzirnavu 59, tel. 67 24 03 66, www.klondaika.lv. Pool 3 - 4Ls/game depending on the venue. QOpen 09:00 - 07:00. D-4, Merķeļa 3, tel. 67 22 16 40. PAXW Melnais Kaķis (The Black Cat) I-2, Meistaru 10/12, tel. 67 21 10 21, www.kakis.lv. Four pool tables. QOpen 08:00 - 07:00. AX NB I-2, Šķūņu 9, tel. 67 22 63 51. Dozens of pool, billiard and snooker tables and relatively cheap drinks. Pool 2.50 - 3.50Ls/h. Q Also on C-5, Čaka 38a (entrance from Ģertrūdes), tel. 67 28 44 06. Open 24hrs. AX 67 22 44 57. This cocktail bar, restaurant and nightclub offers a cavernous interior with stylish furniture, old school radio dial decorations and private booths and niches. The cocktails are good, the music leans toward alternative, house and hip-hop and the ‘ice taps’ might just make the mass-produced Cēsu beer more palatable, but its location near Dome Square also ensures high prices that are often hard to swallow. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Thu 15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. A Sarkans B-4, Stabu 10, tel. 67 27 22 86, www.sarkans. lv. Sarkans proves there is more to nightlife than the old town. Young and not-so-young partygoers assemble at this trendy place to forget the day’s sorrows at the office. Replete with long bar, disco dance floor and lounge, ‘Red’ has all the ingredients for a good time. Can’t take the heat? No problem—head upstairs to one of the two chill out rooms. WC on all three floors is a nice touch. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A Riga In Your Pocket nightliFe 3 Shot Café H-2, Torņa 4 (Jēkaba kazarmas), tel. 67 22 41 65. Look for the sign with a shot glass balanced precariously on the barrel of a pistol to find this small cellar bar that specialises in, you guessed it, shots priced between 1.30Ls for the roughest local hooch to 4Ls for 50g of French cognac. Although the barbed wire and razorblade toilet seat might give you pause, the cheap wings, burritos, burgers and fish and chips served in a newspaper are worth a try. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. A Expat destinations A. Suns C-4, Elizabetes 83/85 (Berga bazārs), tel. 67 28 84 18. A long-time favourite of expats and locals alike, The Dog’s dark red interior has been the backdrop for many a weekend reverie over the years, but lately one has to wonder if it isn’t time to give Old Yeller a rest. The service is painfully slow, the prices for food and drink seem to be a bit steep and the music is loud and outdated. We like Dolly Parton as much as the next guy, but does her folksy voice belong in a supposedly hip and trendy bar? QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. A Skyline Bar C-4, Elizabetes 55 (Reval Hotel Latvija - 26th floor), tel. 67 77 22 22. A visit to the Skyline Bar has become a mandatory stop on the well-travelled tourist routes of Riga and this fact is reflected in its largely foreign clientele. The views are spectacular and the new retro interior of shag carpeting, comfortable couches and an abundance of pillows is warm and inviting. Getting one of the coveted seats by the windows is often a chore, but it’s worth the effort. The wait staff can be a little lethargic, but perhaps it’s due to the altitude. Tapas and sandwiches also available. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00. AEX Lidojošā Varde (The Flying Frog) Star Lounge B-4, Dzirnavu 33 (11th floor), tel. 67 14 27 49. The name is certainly in keeping with the Einstein theme of the hotel, but perhaps it’s also due to the fact that everyone’s much closer to heavenly bodies on the 11th floor. In any event, you’re guaranteed fantastic views from several stylish couches and a wide selection of cocktails for typically high prices given the establishment’s elevated position. An outdoor terrace is also available for fearless drinkers in the summer months. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. A B-3, Elizabetes 31a, tel. 67 32 11 84, www.flying-frog. lv. A long-time staple in the city, this three-roomed cellar hangout is filled with more than just frogs — though there are lots of them, even in the bathrooms. Build your own burger, chow on unparalleled chicken wings or go healthy with grilled dishes and salads. Embassy workers and other expats in the area come in droves for lunch, dinner and cocktails or pints of Guinness with their colleagues after quitting time. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. AEX Gay Riga Golden C-5, Ģertrūdes 33/35, tel. 25 50 50 50, www. goldenbar.lv. Golden doesn’t promote itself much as a gay club from the outside, but the flamboyant bartenders do a pretty good job of convincing you just in case you didn’t get the hint coming in. After navigating corridors and staircases for a time, you’ll find a stylish interior, as one might expect, where patrons can sit at the bar in the atrium or relax in the smoker’s lounge. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. A Dozens more boozers at www.inyourpocket.com October - November 2008 4 nightliFe Live music Bites Blues Club B-4, Dzirnavu 34a, tel. 67 33 31 25, www.bluesclub.lv. The dark interior is basic without any trendy trappings, the way a real blues club should be. If you’re unfortunate enough to miss the live acts on weekend nights, sometimes from as far away as Memphis, classic performances are often broadcast on the big screen during the day. Even if the blues is just another colour to you, it’s worth a visit for the delicious international cuisine and the Užavas beer on draught. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. Admission: Fri, Sat 5 - 15Ls. AE Nightlife tours Riga Out There Tel. 29 38 94 50/67 48 24 43, www. out-there.eu. On Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights Englishspeaking guides will take you and your friends to Riga’s best bars and clubs. The 20Ls tours include at least five destinations and a free drink or free admission depending on the venue. Groups of 6 - 20 people are welcome on the tour that is meant for people who want to experience the ‘real’ Riga, not the drunken wanderings of a stag party. They also offer sightseeing tours as well as shooting, paintball and bobsleigh excursions. Četri Balti Krekli J-3, Vecpilsētas 12, tel. 67 21 38 85. Ultra-Latvians raised on folk songs and beer find their way to this restaurant/club when they want to hear nothing but familiar rock and quality live performances. Bring a well-versed native to point out famous writers and artists, who often find inspiration under the brick ceiling. White shirts aren’t required, but no matter how much you smile at the bouncer, you won’t get in wearing trainers. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. Admission: 1 - 5Ls. AEX Pubs Brālis B-5, Tērbatas 101, www.bralis.lv. Tucked away in a cellar at the far end of Tērbatas is Brālis, or Brother. Named after the amazingly cheap micro-brew that’s served here, its leopard pattern booths and fake brick bar won’t win any awards, nor will its standard menu, but its simplicity and lack of pretension are also it strengths. Order a sour krout soup and a 1Ls beer and watch yesterday’s matches on Eurosport. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (3 - 5Ls). A City Jazz Club C-5, Ģertrūdes 34, tel. 26 12 91 91. Owned by a local celebrity musician, this dark cellar club was designed with London’s renowned Ronnie Scott’s jazz club in mind. Giant black and white photos of legendary musicians hang from the red velvety walls and most of the leather chairs offer good views of the stage at the far end of the basement. Even if jazz isn’t to your taste, you’ll no doubt be impressed by the international dishes like crispy sea bass and key lime pie concocted by a British chef who spent several years working in the States and the Caribbean. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. Kapteiņa Enriko pulkstenis B-4, Antonijas 13, tel. 67 33 89 73. Named after a classic 1960s Latvian film, Captain Enrico’s Watch is a cosy bar decorated with antique wooden furniture including the solid tables adorned with ancient termite holes. International food is on offer from salads and pastas to steaks and even duck, but don’t overlook the appetisers like Thai-style satay and barbecued chicken wings. A much-coveted chill out room is available in back and Latvia’s tastiest beers, Užavas and Tērvetes, are on draught. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. AX Riga In Your Pocket nightliFe Lord Pub I-2, Kaļķu 22. When this place was known as WARNING  Groks, it was the most notorious perpetrator of tourist scams in Latvia. After Riga In Your Pocket and its readers brought this to the attention of the local media, it soon shut its doors. To our horror and dismay it has been re-opened as Lord Pub. Do not be lured in by its beer selection, flat screen TVs showing sports or young girls in its employ who inexplicably find you attractive. Avoid this place like the plague. QOpen 11:00 - 07:00. A The Only Irish Pub in Riga 17 di erent kinds of local and imported beers and ciders on draught Red Fred C-4, Dzirnavu 62, tel. 67 36 51 13. Latvia’s first fire fighting theme bar is chock full of antique helmets, water pumps and fire hoses that double as lamps, but its best feature is a selection of just over 20 foreign and domestic beers on draught. A wide variety of different meats are cooked over a real charcoal grill behind the bar, but be aware that a steak and many of the other dishes on offer can be quite expensive. The flat screen TVs showing Sky Sports are however a major consolation. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also on I-3, Audēju 14. (4 - 10Ls). AEX Runcis (Tomcat) I-2, Jāņa sēta 1, tel. 67 22 41 98. The kind of place where you wish everybody knew your name. It’s totally Latvian in its beer, food, and frequenters, who are usually playing chess, playing cards and exchanging anecdotes. If the thought of seeing another tourist makes you queasy, head here to hide and enjoy some of Old Riga’s cheapest beer. In short, it’s a place that most women find boring and most men intriguing. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. A Sports bars Paddy Whelan’s J-2, Grēcinieku 4, tel. 67 21 01 50. Not so much an Irish pub as it is a sports bar dedicated to the finer things in life - namely football and formula one. On the ground floor you can expect a dozen or so flat screen TVs showing different matches, while upstairs you’ll find a cosier atmosphere with loads of memorabilia on the walls including a portrait of Pierluigi Collina. In addition to the usual Irish and international pub food, Paddy’s also offers a menu of authentic Indian cuisine cooked in a real tandoor.QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AES Live sports on Sky Sports on a large screen and numerous at screen TVs Stars J-2, Grēcinieku 11a, tel. 20 23 52 35. The one on Grēcinieku includes a giant bar and large flat screen TVs that can show nearly any live match via satellite as well as a cellar bar with couches and an enormous wall-sized screen for major events. Over a dozen different brews are available as well as a good selection of bar food that is definitely pricey, but, thankfully, arrives in generous serving sizes. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Also at C-5, Lāčplēša 35. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Adult entertainment Dolls I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. 67 50 92 60. If the opera or ballet bored you stiff, then cross the street for a different sort of entertainment. This classy place offers a self-proclaimed ‘elegant’ striptease show from 22:00, a bar and even a restaurant if you have a hunger of a different kind. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 15Ls. A Extensive, a ordable menu including home-style Indian food made by Indian chefs Jockey Club C-4, Elizabetes 49, tel. 67 22 88 44, www.jockeyclub.lv. The Scandinavian-owned Jockey Club promises adult entertainment for a reasonable price. Naked ladies practice their trade every 20 to 30 minutes, but fully clothed women dance around a pole for your amusement between shows. Private dances range from 10 - 120Ls. An expat favourite. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 10Ls. A Friendly and service-minded sta Grecinieku iela 4, Old Riga, Latvia Phone: +371 67210150, email: paddy@pub.lv Open daily 11:00 - 01:00 October - November 2008  whAt to see Essential Riga Art Nouveau architecture B-3, Alberta 2, 2a, 4, 6, 8, 13; Elizabetes 10b; Strēlnieku 4a. Visit the biggest gallery of Art Nouveau architecture by Russian architect Mikhail Eisenstein. A definite must! Some buildings have still not been renovated which makes for a somewhat chaotic clash of modern investment and comunist neglect. Of particular interest is the house at Strēlnieku 4a. Built in 1905 it was home to a student hostel from 1953 - 1993. It has since undergone a complete facelift and is now home to the Stockholm School of Economics. Nearly 40% of buildings in the centre of Riga were built in this flamboyant style. Churches Old St. Gertrude’s Church (Vecā Sv. Ģertrūdes baznīca) B-4, Ģertrūdes 8, tel. 67 27 57 07, www. gertrude.lv. Anyone who walks down Ģertrūdes iela can’t help but notice the monumental neo-gothic church at the beginning of the street. Consecrated in 1869, this red brick masterpiece topped with a green copper spire was designed by one of the city’s most prolific architects, J.D. Felsko. Unfortunately, some of its decorative ornaments cast in concrete are now in a sad state and hang precariously above passers-by. Many of the art nouveau buildings surrounding the church are also worth a look. Dome Cathedral (Doma baznīca) I-1, Doma laukums, tel. 67 21 32 13, www.doms.lv. The largest place of worship in the Baltics, measuring 187 x 43m, with walls two metres thick, Dome Cathedral also has one of the biggest organs in Europe (6,768 pipes!). It was such a marvel in its day that Franz Liszt composed a piece of music in its honour. The drop from Dome Square to the cathedral’s base shows how the level of the city has risen in the 800 years since its foundations were laid on the site of a Livonian fishing village. Unfortunately, the massive structure is in desperate need of repairs, hence the steel beams and other supports you’ll see around columns and just below the ceiling. The price of the ticket also includes access to its Romanesque cloister. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: 2Ls. RC Orthodox Cathedral (Pareizticīgo katedrāle) G-3, Brīvības 23, tel. 67 21 12 16. Built between 1876 and 1884, this yellow-brick church capped with five gilded cupolas was turned into a planetarium during the occupation but was finally returned to its congregation in 1990. The Soviets destroyed many of the church’s ornate works of art including wall and ceiling frescoes by the famous Russian painter Vereshchagin. Much of the cathedral has now been restored to its former glory. (08:00 and 17:00, Sat 07:00, 09:30, 17:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 17:00 - Church Slavonic) St. Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Church (Sv. Aleksandra Ņevska pareizticīgo baznīca) C-4, Brīvības Latvian Ethnographic Museum (Latvijas etnogrāfiskais brīvdabas muzejs) Brīvības gatve 440, tel. 67 99 45 15, www.muzejs.lv. 100 hectares of life as it used to be. Farmsteads, windmills, fishing villages, churches and other historic structures have been moved here and preserved for posterity. Watch craftsmen perform various tasks or try some Latvian cuisine and drink in the tavern. Take bus N°1 from the corner of Merķeļa and Tērbatas to the Brīvdabas muzejs stop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: 1.50Ls. RC 56, tel. 67 28 32 01. Construction of this Classicist wooden building began in 1820 and was completed five years later. In 1862 its eclectic-style belfry was added. Yellow and round with a large green dome, it’s hard to miss it on the corner of Brīvības and Blaumaņa. Inside you’ll find three porticoes, beautiful icons and, unusually, a central altar in the middle of the room. St. Jacob’s (Jēkaba katedrāle) H-1, Jēkaba 9, tel. 67 St. Peter’s Church (Pēterbaznīca) I-2, Skārņu 19, tel. 67 22 94 26. First mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1209, St. Peter’s was a Catholic church until 1523, when it turned Lutheran. Its wooden tower, the highest in Europe at that time, was destroyed several times. It first collapsed in 1666 and was rebuilt a year later. To see how long it would last, the builders hurled a glass from the top: the more pieces the vessel broke into, the greater the tower’s longevity. Alas, a pile of straw cushioned the glass’ fall and the spire burnt down one year later. Artillery fire destroyed the structure again in 1941. In 1973 it was finally rebuilt and the glass ritual was repeated, this time with smashing results. Take the lift to the observation platform for spectacular views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 0.50Ls, tower 2Ls. 32 64 19, www.catholic.lv/katedrale. This church beside the parliament was first mentioned in ancient chronicles in 1225. In 1522, it became the first church in Latvia to hold a Lutheran service, but during a brief Polish occupation 60 years later it was returned to its Catholic flock, who have held it ever since. (08:00, Sun 09:00, 18:00 - Latvian) QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. St. John’s (Jāņa baznīca) I-2, Jāņa 7, tel. 67 22 40 28/67 22 51 71. First mentioned in 1297 when it served as the chapel of a Dominican abbey, the monastery and church were closed during the Reformation in 1523 and served for a time as the city’s armoury. It was taken over by the Lutherans in 1582. During the building’s construction two monks were bricked into the southern wall and lived out their lives there, fed through the window grate. (08:00, Sat 08:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:00, 18:30 - Latvian) QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: donations. The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia (Latvijas okupācijas muzejs) D-3, Strēlnieku laukums 1, tel. 67 21 27 15, www.occupationmuseum.lv. Once a museum honouring the Latvian Red Riflemen, the building now houses a fascinating museum dedicated to the Nazi and Soviet occupations of Latvia. The various exhibits display the atrocities committed against the people of Latvia and the systematic destruction of their nation’s sovereignty. Visitors can walk into a reconstructed gulag barracks and catch a glimpse of the intolerable living conditions in Siberian labour camps. Exhibits are available in English, German, Latvian and Russian, but you can also choose to use an audio guide with headphones in English or just ask for a live guide. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: free. National Art Museum M.Zaprauskis Riga In Your Pocket whAt to see Museums Fire-Fighting Museum (Latvijas ugunsdzēsības muzejs) B-4, Hanzas 5, tel. 67 33 13 34. Set up in 1978 on the premises of a former fire station built in 1912, this museum displays the history of fire fighting in Latvia from the second half of the 19th century until the present. View fire fighting equipment, uniforms, flags, photographs and documents. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.20Ls. RC  November light festival History Museum of Latvia (Latvijas vēstures muzejs) H-1, Pils laukums 3, tel. 67 22 13 57, www. history-museum.lv. Visitors can view the evolution of Latvia and its people from the Stone Age to the present here. The exhibits display a variety of themes including Bronze Age artefacts, ancient currency, folk costumes and traditional farming tools. Of particular interest are the black and white still photos of farmers demonstrating their specialised tasks. Displays are only available in Latvian, but an English brochure to the museum can be also be bought, should you be that interested. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.50 - 1Ls (Wednesdays free). RC A new annual light festival called Riga Shines will make its debut this November beginning on the 14th and culminating with a special light programme by the river on the 18th – the 90th anniversary of Latvian independence. During the festival Riga’s parks, buildings and most prominent landmarks will be illuminated by lighting specialists and a variety of events including theatre productions, concerts and film presentations will take place throughout the night. For more information visit www. staroriga.com. Photos courtesy of Staro Riga. Krišjānis Barons Memorial Museum (Krišjāņa Barona memoriālais muzejs) C-4, Barona 3 - 5, tel. 67 28 42 65, www.baronamuzejs.lv. One of the most revered men in Latvian history, Barons collected and codified over one million folk songs by walking all over the country and writing down this wealth of oral culture so that future generations might understand their ancestors and thus understand themselves. This museum, housed in the illustrious folklorist’s former apartment, displays photographs, manuscripts and original furniture from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Explanations available in English.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.60Ls. Latvian People’s Front Museum (Latvijas Tautas Frontes muzejs) J-3, Vecpilsētas 13/15, tel. 67 22 45 02. Visit the one-time office of the popular movement which is largely responsible for Latvia’s freedom. View pictures of the main players, dissidents and demonstrations that led to complete independence from the Soviet Union and an exhibit that illustrates exactly what the office looked like years ago, complete with Soviet office furniture and an antiquated Apple computer.QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Tue 14:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: free. Mentzendorff’s House I-2, Grēcinieku 18, tel. 67 21 29 51. For fans of antiquity this fascinating historical house that once belonged to a wealthy Riga merchant is a must. Restored furniture, 18th century frescoes and a true medieval atmosphere are all here for your perusal.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1.50Ls. RC Museum of Decorative Art & Design I-2, Skārņu 10/20, tel. 67 22 78 33, www.dlmm.lv. Latvian tapestries, woodcuttings and porcelain are housed in this gallery/ museum. Formerly St. George’s church, it is the oldest surviving religious stone building in Riga (13th century). You can also purchase local textiles and other souvenirs here at its shop. Exhibitions usually cost extra. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 3Ls. RC 64 67, www.amm.lv. Set in the Riga Castle, the ground floor features ancient oriental, antique, medieval and Renaissance sculptures and ceramics. The upper halls feature European paintings, graphic works, sculptures and temporary exhibitions. The romantic cellar also called the ‘arched halls’ is a great example of 14th-century architecture. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 0.50 - 2.50Ls. Latvian Photography Museum (Latvijas fotogrāfijas muzejs) J-2, Mārstaļu 8, tel. 67 22 27 13. This small museum covers the development of photography in Latvia from 1839 - 1941. View antique equipment from the previous two centuries and the world’s largest exhibit dedicated to the famous Latvian produced Minox ‘spy camera.’ The first floor displays black and white stills of Latvians at work, war and play and key historic events such as the 1905 Revolution and WWI battles.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1.40Ls. RC Museum of Foreign Art H-1, Pils laukums 3, tel. 67 22 Latvian Railway Museum (Latvijas dzelzceļa muzejs) E-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. 67 23 28 49, www. railwaymuseum.lv. Retrace the tracks of rail history in Latvia in this museum run by Latvian Railways (Latvijas dzelzceļš). Inside the brick hangar you’ll find old photographs, antiquated machines and a few specimens of old wagons. Outside you can look at restored Soviet diesel and electric locomotives built in Ukraine and Russia as well as a German locomotive built in 1942 that no doubt became a spoil of war. Don’t miss the Tsarist era prison car. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1Ls. Activities, excursions & Tours Riga Out There Tel. 29 38 94 50/67 48 24 43, info@out-there.eu, www.out-there.eu. Offer daytrips to Sigulda, Jūrmala, Rundāle Palace and the Ethnographic Museum in Riga as well as nightlife tours of the Latvian capital. Also organise extreme sports excursions, airport transfers, accommodation and much more. Q A October - November 2008  whAt to see Museum of Janis Rozentāls and Rūdolfs Blaumanis (Jaņa Rozentāla un Rūdolfa Blaumaņa muzejs) D-3, Alberta 12 - 9, tel. 67 33 16 41, www.rtmm.lv. View the apartment where famous Latvian painter Janis Rozentāls and renowned writer Rūdolfs Blaumanis once lived. Visitors can look at original Rozentāls sketches and portraits which cost 100 roubles at a time when a month’s rent cost fewer than 20 roubles. If these names mean nothing to you, it’s worth a visit just to see the amazing Art Nouveau interior of this 100-year-old building. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 1Ls. Museum of Pharmacy (Farmācijas muzejs) I-2, Vāgnera 13, tel. 67 21 30 08. The making of medicine used to be an art, judging from the exhibit in this historic home in Old Riga. Displays of porcelain containers, tools and century-old remedies trace the history of pharmacology in Latvia, and the authentic drugstore brings visitors back to the 1920s. It’s worth calling ahead to book a tour, because only then will the more obscure and even ominous aspects of prescribing and creating medicine be explained. Many of the antique packages and flasks contain their original contents, which in some cases are still potent. Just because the warning labels aren’t in a language you understand doesn’t mean you should try the drugs. Order tours in English in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1Ls. RC Latvian Art Academy tower M.Zaprauskis Museum of Riga’s History and Navigation (Rīgas vēstures un kuģniecības muzejs) D-3, Palasta 4, tel. 67 21 13 58, www.rigamuz.lv. Enter this unique museum and walk up the stairs to the first floor to discover temporary exhibitions from Latvia and abroad, as well as art and memorabilia from the days of the first Latvian Republic. The second floor displays Bronze Age artefacts and medieval curiosities, such as the sword used by Riga’s executioner in the 16th century and the mummified hand of an unlucky criminal. You can also take a peek at the Dome Cathedral’s courtyard, which is also open to the public, from upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 2.50Ls. RC vmm.lv. Enter this time capsule and marvel at the red-carpeted marble stairs and gilt walls and ceiling, which display murals of Latvian landscapes. View classic paintings, drawings, watercolours and sculptures by the Latvian masters Rozentāls, Annuss, Valters, Padegs, Liberts and many more. Works by the famous philosopher, artist and explorer Nicholas Roerich and many other Baltic-Russians and Germans are also available. Postcards of famous paintings for sale in the lobby, but sadly no large prints. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: 1 - 3Ls. Tours in English: 8Ls. RC National Art Museum (Nacionālais mākslas muzejs) C-3, Valdemāra 10a, tel. 67 32 44 61, www. Paul Stradin Museum of the History of Medicine (P. Stradiņa medicīnas vēstures muzejs) B-3, Antonijas 1, tel. 67 22 26 56, www.mvm.lv. Named in honour of the Latvian physician Pauls Stradiņš, this fascinating museum traces the medical practice throughout the ages. View straight jackets, old medical equipment, a recreated 19th-century pharmacy and plaques warning of smallpox. No vaccinations required. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Thu 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission: 1.50Ls. RC Museum of War (Kara muzejs) H-2, Smilšu 20, tel. 67 22 81 47, www.karamuzejs.lv. Latvia is one of the most war-ravaged countries in Europe. Crusader, Swedish, Polish, German and Russian armies have all left their mark. This museum of photos and memorabilia documents the struggles of the 20th century, from WWI and the war for independence up to and including the Nazi and Soviet occupations of WWII. One exhibition chronicles the development of the Latvian army from WWI until 1940. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: free. Rīga Porcelain Museum (Rīgas porcelāna muzejs) I-2, Kalēju 9/11 (Konventa Sēta), tel. 67 50 37 69. The Konventa Sēta houses the only porcelain collection of its kind in the Baltics.The exhibit traces the rich history of porcelain manufacturing in Riga, chiefly started in 1841. An enormous red and gold vase dominates the exhibit, and is a standout not only because of its size, but because it was specially made for Riga on her 700th birthday in 1901. One room is filled with works from the Soviet era, when images of leaders were immortalised on vases. If the ornate sickle and hammer artwork stirs up a creative desire, the master porcelain painter provides blank mugs, brushes and guidance for 3Ls. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 0.50Ls. RC Riga Motor Museum (Rīgas motormuzejs) Memorial stone near Bastion Hill M.Zaprauskis Eizenšteina 6, tel. 67 09 71 70, www.motormuzejs.lv. If you’re an automobile aficionado or a fan of Soviet concrete architecture, then it’s definitely worth the trip to high rise suburbia. An eclectic collection of cars, from vintage Rolls Royces, BMWs and Mercedes’ to Soviet mechanical wonders can be seen here for 1Ls. Don’t miss the wax figures of Stalin in his armoured ZIS 115 and Brezhnev at the wheel of his crashed Rolls Royce. Take bus N°21 from Brīvības to the Pansionāts stop in Mežciems. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: 1.50Ls. Riga In Your Pocket whAt to see Parks Arcadia Park (Arkādijas Parks) Between O. Vācieša and F. Brīvzemnieka. Created at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, this pleasant park is divided by the meandering Mārupīte river which was diverted for the project. A restaurant building and an amphitheatre were part of the original park but were burned down over the years by vandals and never restored. Today, you can follow the course of the river and feed ducks from its banks or take in the view from the top of the hill. Take tram N°10 from Grēcinieku to the Arkādijas parks stop.  Places of interest Āgenskalns Market (Āgenskalna tirgus) E-1, Nometņu 64, tel. 67 61 15 49. Although construction of Riga’s third largest market began in 1911, due to WWI it wasn’t completed until 1923. Since then this red brick building has become the focal point of the local community. It’s home to numerous stalls selling anything from pork and poultry to dairy products and fresh vegetables. Unfortunately, the years have not been kind to this historic landmark and a general feeling of depression seems to reside in its halls. Take the stairs to the second floor for great views of the bustle below and cheap food and drink at the café. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Bastion Hill (Bastejkalns) H-2/3, Separating Old Riga from the new centre. This hill was created from 1857 to 1859 to replace the old defensive sand bulwark. Within its precincts are memorial stones to five people killed by Soviet bullets during the January 1991 disturbances. Among the dead were camera operators documenting the stormy events. Despite the popular coverage of the Gulf War at the time, their footage was shown all over the globe, much to the chagrin of the Soviets. Big Christopher (Lielais Kristaps) C-3, Where Poļu Brothers’ Cemetery (Brāļu kapi) Bērzu aleja. The Cemetery of Heroes is the last resting place for the Latvian soldiers who died defending Latvia from 1915 - 1920. Built by Kārlis Zāle in the constructivist style of the 1920s with white tufa, you can’t miss the impressive statue of ‘Mother Latvia,’ who dominates an army of little graves. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Brāļu kapi stop. gāte and 11. novembra krastmala meet. Big Christopher, the city’s protector from floods and other natural disasters, first appeared in the 16th century, in a small cave by a bank of the Daugava River. For centuries he has been a symbol of the city, and its inhabitants paid tribute to him with flowers and lit candles, asking for his blessing before embarking on a long journey. In modern times, Big Christopher was moved to the safety of the Museum of Riga’s History and Navigation. Today, a replica stands in a small glass structure on the bank of the Daugava, so he might once again greet seafaring visitors and keep a close watch over the city he built. Cat House (Kaķu māja) H/I-2, Meistaru 19. The Cat Forest Park (Mežaparks) Meža prospekts. This was the most prosperous part of the city before the war, as many of the beautiful, yet decaying, old houses testify. Check out the Mežaparka estrāde, the open-air auditorium where the mass concerts of the song festivals are held, or hit the zoo. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Mežaparks stop. House is named for two black felines perched on the points of its towers. Not only did the beasts curse their first sculptor, he fatally fell while putting them up, but their purpose was to cause trouble. Roughly 100 years ago, the Latvian owner of the building was excluded from the powerful Big Guild across the road by its ethnocentric German occupants. He ordered the cats to be turned around, backside up, as an insult to his enemies. They were turned around after a lengthy court battle and he was eventually admitted to the Guild. Great Cemetery (Lielie kapi) A-6, between Senču, Miera, Klusā and Klijānu. The Great Cemetery must have truly lived up to its name when it was a popular resting place for Riga’s elite in the 18th and 19th centuries. Unfortunately, many of the headstones were removed or destroyed during the Soviet period, but a large restored crypt built in 1777, German and Latvian family plots and the graves of Krišjānis Barons and Krišjānis Valdemārs have survived and are all worth a visit. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Mēness stop. Song Festival Park (Viestura dārzs) B-3, Between Eksporta, Hanzas and Rūpniecības. Peter the Great planted a tree here in 1721 and thus laid the foundation for this park. The tree no longer exists, but a memorial plaque still remains. Although song festivals are now celebrated in Mežaparks, the first song festival was held here in 1873. Infrequently visited and well-maintained, it’s a good place to avoid crowds and the kids can enjoy a small playground. Central Market (Centrāltirgus) D-4, Centrāltirgus iela, www.centraltirgus.lv. When construction was completed in 1930, Riga’s Central Market was one of the largest and most modern marketplaces on the European continent. Seventy years later, four of the five pavilions, which were used as zeppelin hangars during WWI, still serve their original function as meat, fish, produce and dairy markets. The bustling atmosphere also hasn’t changed much, although most of the hawkers are more reluctant to haggle than in the past. The markets spill out beyond the confines of the hangars and operate throughout the day, some longer than others. Each pavilion has slightly different opening hours so if in doubt check its informative website. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Mon, Sun 08:00 - 16:00. Vērmanes Garden (Vērmanes dārzs) C-4, Between Elizabetes, Barona, Merķeļa, Tērbatas. A place to come and play some chess, read a book, listen to free concerts and occasional rantings from bored Bolsheviks in the outside auditorium or just to have a snowball fight in winter, this park is always full of locals. Many improvements have also been made in recent years, including new bricks for the walkways, repairs to the monuments and a small playground. More sights at www.inyourpocket.com Rainis Monument on the Esplanade M.Zaprauskis October - November 2008 0 whAt to see Freedom Monument (Brīvības piemineklis) H-3, Brīvības and Raiņa. ‘Milda,’ as she is affectionately known, was unveiled in 1935 and is a national shrine for Latvians. Designed by Kārlis Zāle, the friezes around the base of the sculpture depict Latvians singing, working and fighting for their freedom, while the three stars in the maiden’s hands represent the three historical regions of the country: Kurzeme, Vidzeme and Latgale. Locals are always placing flowers at the base of the monument, an act for which people were deported to Siberia in Soviet times. The honour guard changes every hour on the hour from 09:00 - 18:00. Great & Small Guild Halls (Lielā & Mazā Ģilde) H-2 and I-2, Amatu 6 and Amatu 5. During the centuries of German economic domination, the guilds were Riga’s power brokers. The former, dating from 1384, was the home of the merchants, while the latter held the city’s artisans. These slightly different audiences are reflected in the respective usage of the buildings today: while the Great Guild is home to the Latvian Symphony Orchestra, its smaller cousin hosts conferences and the occasional disco. Fountain in Vērmanes Park M.Zaprauskis Powder Tower (Pulvertornis) H-1, Smilšu 20. Dating House of Blackheads (Melngalvju nams) I-1, Rātslaukums 7, tel. 67 04 43 00. One of the architectural treasures of Riga, it was rebuilt in honour of the city’s 800th anniversary in 2001. Dating from 1344, it was destroyed in 1941. The Soviets completely pulled down the ruins in 1948, because it was considered to represent ‘decadent’ German architecture. A striking Gothic building with a Dutch Renaissance facade, it was used to house travelling, single members of the merchants’ guild. Many of its fantastic riches accompanied Baltic-Germans who repatriated to Germany in the late 1930s. The building is now open to the public. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 2Ls. back to the beginning of the 14th century, only the rock foundations remained after it was destroyed by invading Swedish troops in 1621. It was rebuilt in 1650 with 2.5m thick walls to protect its valuable contents inside and was obviously successful, as nine Russian cannonballs that hardly made a dent were later embedded in its walls by cheeky masons. At the end of the 19th century a German student fraternity bought the building, but today it’s part of the War Museum. Riga Castle (Rīgas pils) H-1, Pils laukums 3. Built in 1330 as a base for the Livonian Order, the castle was destroyed several times during battles with the local townspeople. After the Order’s destruction, the various occupiers of the city housed their governors inside. Latvia’s first postCold War president Guntis Ulmanis made it his official office to continue the tradition begun by Latvia’s interwar presidents in the 1920s and 1930s. It also houses two museums. KGB Victims’ Memorial B-4, Corner of Brīvības and Stabu. Surrounded as they are by a cocktail bar, a coffee shop and a striptease club, one could hardly guess that locals once considered the unassuming rusted doors of this memorial the very gates of hell. The text on the left side sums it up best: ‘During the Soviet occupation the state security agency /KGB/ imprisoned, tortured, killed and morally humiliated its victims in this building.’ Once used by the police, the city is now considering creating a KGB museum in the building’s cellar. Killing spree ends The small town of Ceraukste roughly 15km south of Bauska was the scene of three grizzly murders this past summer. Ivars Grantiņš, 36, who had been released from prison in April, was arrested on August 29 for the barbaric murder of his 11-year-old daughter. She was found at her grandmother’s house with her throat slit. It later became clear that he had also strangled his ex-wife, aged 29, on June 29, cutting her body up in the kitchen while her small children slept in the next room. Nearly a month later he raped an 18-year-old girl after a night of drinking and drowned her in a nearby pond. She was also butchered and her body parts buried at various locations throughout a local forest. Grantiņš had already served time for rape and for attacking his mother with an axe. Unaccustomed to such acts of brutality, Latvians are naturally shocked. Most believe that such things only happen in America or, at least, in Hollywood movies. Ansis Kaupēns (1895 - 1927) was the closest thing to a bone fide serial killer that the nation has experienced. Kaupēns terrorised the forests, roads and railways of Latvia from 1920 until 1926 when he was finally caught. It’s estimated that he stole tens of thousands of lats during that six year period, killing 19 people in the process. He was found guilty and executed, but to this day he remains a kind of Jesse James or Robin Hood in the nation’s collective memory rather than a Jeffrey Dahmer, Ted Bundy or even an Ivars Grantiņš. Laima Clock (Laimas pulkstenis) H-3, corner of Brīvības and Aspazijas. Satiekamies pie Laimas pulksteņa - let’s meet at the Laima clock! The yellow-brown clock in front of the Freedom Monument has been a meeting place since it was erected by social democrats in 1924 so people wouldn’t be late for work. For decades it has advertised Laima chocolate, and many a sweet romance has started here. The famous clock was repaired some years ago and its time is now synchronised twice daily by satellite. Old City Walls & Swedish Gate (Vecpilsētas mūris & Zviedru vārti) H-2, At the corner of Torņa and Aldaru. This is the oldest remaining portion of the Old Town fortifications, the rest having been progressively knocked down because artillery made them obsolete. This fragment was built between the 13th and 16th centuries and restored during Soviet times, hence its rather ‘new’ appearance. It used to run between the Bishops’ Castle and the Castle of the Brothers of the Sword. At the end of Aldaru, is the Swedish Gate (Zviedru vārti), built in 1698 to celebrate the Scandinavians’ occupation of the city, and the only such structure left in Old Riga. The apartment above belonged to the city executioner or bende, who would put a red rose on the window ledge on the morning before a head rolled. Riga In Your Pocket whAt to see Riga National Zoo (Rīgas zooloģiskais dārzs) Meža prosp. 1, tel. 67 51 86 69, www.rigazoo.lv. Take a look at a wide variety of animals from around the globe including tortoises from the Galapagos, Japanese macaques, Bactrian camels, African zebras, lions, tigers, giraffes and hippopotami, Asian red pandas and European bears, wolves and seals. The zoo also has a top-notch tropical house filled with rare birds, snakes, frogs and insects. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Mežaparks stop. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Admission: 3 - 4Ls, free for children under four. 1 Three Brothers (Trīs brāļi) H-1, Mazā Pils 17, 19, 21, tel. 67 22 07 79. The Three Brothers are the oldest stone residential buildings in the city and represent different stages in the architectural development of Riga, from medieval to Baroque. The oldest of the three is N°17 and dates back to the 15th century. The other two were built in the 17th and 18th centuries, respectively. Unfortunately, not much is known about the history of these abodes, including who owned them. The Riga Architecture Museum is located in building N°19. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission: free. Orthodox Cathedral M.Zaprauskis Soviet Riga Academy of Sciences (Zinātņu Akadēmija) D-4, Akadēmijas laukums 1. This Soviet edifice is a cousin to similar statements of ugliness all over Eastern Europe. Most Latvians just consider themselves lucky that the portrait of Uncle Joe that was supposed to be a part of the facade never came to fruition. If you look close enough you can spot several hammers and sickles, but best of all, at a height of 65m, the 17th-floor balcony is open to the public for only 1Ls. For a short tour in English visit on weekdays 11:00 - 15:00. Someone always mans the information desk on the ground floor, so you can visit on weekends too as well as in the evening or early morning, or so they claim. Town Hall Square (Rātslaukums) I-2, Rātslaukums. St. Roland, Rīga’s patron saint, was erected in the centre of Town Hall Square in 1897, but was later moved to St. Peter’s after it was damaged in WWII. A replica now occupies its pedestal. Most of the medieval square was destroyed during the last war, but has now been rebuilt with mixed results. The reconstructed town hall on the northern side of the square is graced with a baroque tower and a postmodern roof and is now once again open for business. The modern building that obscures the view of the square from Kaļķu is simply too ugly for words and has no place in the historic old town. Riga Aviation Museum Airport (to the right of the Jewish Riga Great Choral Synagogue (Die Greise Hor Shul) E-5, At the corner of Gogoļa and Dzirnavu. Although the colossal synagogue no longer exists, it’s worth the 10 minute walk from the train station to see what remains of this one-time place of worship and to meditate on one of the most beastly crimes committed during the Nazi occupation of Latvia. On July 4, 1941, hundreds of Jewish refugees from Lithuania and local Latvian Jews were herded into the basement of the synagogue which was then intentionally burned to the ground. Only ruins, a metal menorah and a memorial stone remain. terminal), tel. 26 86 27 07. If you’re a fan of Tom Clancy novels or the Cold War in general, then this little known museum located to the right of the airport terminal is a must see when in Riga. Walk among Soviet helicopters and planes of varying age and size from MiG fighter jets to the enormous Mi-6 passenger helicopter which set world records for speed and hauling capacity. Its rotor has an unbelievable diameter of 36m! Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun by appointment only. Admission: 2Ls for locals, 5Ls for tourists. Soviet Victory Monument (Uzvaras piemineklis) E- Jews in Latvia C-4, Skolas 6, tel. 67 28 34 84. Located on the third floor, this small, yet informative museum documents, in Latvian and English, the history of Jewish life in Latvia beginning with the 18th century. Visitors can discover the important role Jews played in Latvian society and the contributions they made to intellectual life, the arts and even sports. The exhibits are also a moving testimony to the suffering Latvian Jews experienced at the hands of the Nazis and Soviets. The last section of the museum entitled ‘The Jewish People Survived’ illustrates the triumphant rebirth of Judaism in Latvia after independence.QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Admission: donations. 2, Over the Akmens Bridge in Pārdaugava. The Soviet war memorial which commemorates the supposed communist ‘liberation’ of Riga is the place to meet die hard reds on Soviet anniversary days. Built in 1985 to lionise the Red Army and to dishearten and annoy the Latvian populace, the monument consists of a tall concrete obelisk adorned with five golden stars symbolising the five years of WWII. On either side are statues of Mother Russia and advancing soldiers. Dozens of hectares of parkland surround this shrine to former Soviet glory. Take trams N°5 or 10 from 11. Novembra krastmala to the second stop over the Akmens Bridge. Synagogue (Peitav Shul) I-2, Peitavas 6/8, tel. 67 21 45 07. Built in 1905, this is the only surviving Jewish prayer house and the main meeting place for the 12,000-strong community. Although it was used as a warehouse during the Nazi occupation, its sacred scrolls and other treasures were hidden and escaped destruction. It is said that the building was not burned to the ground as others had been due to its close proximity to other houses in Old Riga. It is currently closed for renovations, but is due to open again by January 2009. Freedom Monument beyond the trees M.Zaprauskis October - November 2008 2 getting Around Airport Airport (Lidosta) Tel. 67 20 70 09, www.riga-airport. com. Riga international airport, known throughout the world as RIX, lies some 13km southwest of the city. The Airport Express shuttle stops at three different hotels (Hotel Riga, Nordic Bellevue and Monika) in the city centre for 3Ls every 30 minutes between 05:30 - 00:45. The journey takes about 30 minutes depending on traffic. Bus N°22 leaving from Abrenes or 13. janvāra will take you there for a mere 0.40Ls or you could take express bus N°22A leaving roughly once an hour, sometimes twice, from the Orthodox cathedral on Brīvības (departure times - www.rigassatiksme.lv). The airport has undergone major improvements over the years and the latest upgrade includes a new terminal for low cost airlines. A TGIFriday’s is available at the far right of the airport and a LIDO Latvian restaurant is open on the top floor of the main terminal for those who want a last sip of a local beer or who just can’t stand airplane food. Latvian souvenirs from music CDs to local alcohol are available at a shop located on the other side of the security checkpoint. For more information visit its comprehensive website. Flight schedule You can fly directly from Riga to dozens of major cities including London, Rome, Moscow and New York, not to mention more exotic locales such as Tashkent, Baku and Tbilisi. Cheap, frequent domestic routes to Liepāja and Ventspils are also available. For a complete schedule and a list of airlines that service Riga visit www.rigaairport.com. - 17:00, Sat, Sun 04:30 - 07:00, 13:00 - 15:30. easyJet www.easyjet.com. easyJet will suspend direct flights between Riga and Berlin (Schonefeld) in November. Finnair Airport, tel. 67 20 70 10, fax 67 20 77 64, www. finnair.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:00. Latcharter Airport, tel. 67 20 73 92, www.latcharter. com. Charter flights.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Latpass Airport, tel. 67 20 71 26. Charter flights. LOT (Polish Airlines) Airport, tel. 67 20 71 13, fax 67 20 72 13, www.lot.com. Q Open 05:00 - 07:00, 09:00 Aer Lingus I-2, Kaļķu 11a, tel. 67 35 77 36, www.aer- - 17:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 15:30. Lufthansa Airport, tel. 67 50 77 11, www.lufthansa.lv. lingus.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Aeroflot B-4, Skolas 9, tel. 67 78 07 70, www.aeroflot. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Norwegian Tel. 90 00 62 00, www.norwegian.no. lv. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. airBaltic Airport, tel. 90 00 60 06, www.airbaltic.lv. Norway’s low cost airline offers cheap direct flights to Oslo QOpen 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 05:30 - 18:00, Sun 05:30 - 20:30. and Trondheim. Raf-Avia F-2, Alunāna 2a, tel. 67 32 46 61, fax 67 32 46 Also on C-4, Elizabetes 85a (Berga Bazārs), tel. 67 20 77 77. 71, www.raf-avia.com. European cargo services. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Air France, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines Airport, tel. Ryanair www.ryanair.com. Europe’s leading budget airline 67 66 13 05/67 66 86 00, fax 67 66 82 07, www.klm. now offers cheap direct flights between Riga and Bremen, lv. QOpen 05:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 05:30 - 13:00. Dublin, Frankfurt (Hahn), Glasgow (Prestwick), Liverpool, LonAustrian Airlines Airport, tel. 67 50 77 00, fax 67 50 don (Stansted), Stockholm (Skavsta) and Tampere, Finland. 77 01, www.aua.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun Turkish Airlines Airport, tel. 67 35 94 44, www.thy. 14:30 - 17:30. com. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Uzbekistan Airways B-3, Elizabetes 11, tel. 67 32 45 63, www.uzairways. com. Direct flights to Tashkent and New York. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 Days Dep Arr Ship Dep Arr Days - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. From Riga Lubeck To Riga 1 22:00 07:00 Envoy 21:00 08:00 4 4 22:00 07:00 Mermaid II 21:00 08:00 2 6 17:00 03:00 Envoy DFDS Tor Line Unijas 47, tel. 67 Mermaid II 13:00 00:00 6 84 07 77, fax 67 84 07 78, www. From Riga Stockholm To Riga dfdstorline.com. Passenger and cargo 17:30 09:30 Regina Baltica* 17:00 11:00 ferry between Riga and Lubeck, Germany. 17:30 09:30 Festival** 17:00 11:00 Ferries depart from the Vecmīlgrāvis terFrom Ventspils Rostock+ To Ventspils minal: Zivju 1. 4, 7 04:00 07:30 ASK 17:30 22:30 2, 5 Riga Passenger Terminal B-3, 2, 5 04:00 07:30 URD 17:30 22:30 3, 6 Eksporta 3a, tel. 67 32 62 00, sek3 04:00 07:30 Fellow 17:30 22:30 4 retare.terminals@apollo.lv, w w w. From Ventspils Nynashamn To Ventspils portofriga.lv. (Stockholm)+ Scandlines Ventspils, Plostu 7, tel. 1 23:59 10:00 Petersburg 19:30 07:00 2 63 60 73 58, fax 63 60 73 55, www. 3 09:00 18:30 Petersburg 22:00 09:30 3 scandlines.lv. Regular passenger and 4 21:00 08:00 Petersburg 22:00 10:00 5 cargo ferries from Ventspils to Rostock, 6 19:00 07:00 Petersburg 09:00 20:30 7 Germany and Nynashamn, Sweden (60km 7 22:00 08:00 Petersburg 10:00 22:00 1 from Stockholm). Tallink B-2, Eksporta 3a, tel. 67 09 + Visit www.scandlines.lv for more information. * Departs Riga on even days 97 00, www.tallink.lv. Tallink provides and Stockholm on odd days in October and in November on odd days from Riga regular ferry service between Riga and and even days from Stockholm. ** Departs Riga on odd days and Stockholm on even days in October and in November on even days from Riga and odd days Stockholm with two modern ships. QOfrom Stockholm. Visit www.tallink.lv for more information. For Riga Passenger pen 09:00 - 19:00. Also at D-4, Stacijas Terminal information visit www.portofriga.lv. Schedule subject to change. laukums 2 (Train station - Tunnel A). Open 09:00 - 21:00. A ČSA (Czech Airlines) Airport, tel. 67 20 76 36, fax 67 20 73 37, www.czech-airlines.com. Q Open 04:30 Airline offices Ferry schedule Ferries Riga In Your Pocket getting Around International bus schedule From Dep 12:00 10:40 10:40 22:10 14:00 16:00 16:15 22:50 12:00 14:00 07:30 15:00 10:40 18:45 21:30 10:40 07:00 08:30 12:30 12:00 18:30 19:00 18:45 08:00 12:00 16:00 18:45 Riga Arr City 07:40 (1,4,5) Berlin* (3,6) 22:30 (4,6) Bern** (1,6) 19:20 (2,7) Bonn** (2,4) 07:10 Kaliningrad 18:20 Kaunas 10:00 (1,4,7) Kyiv** (5,6) 21:35 Klaipeda 02:55 Klaipeda 19:05 (3,6) Cologne* (1) 06:00 (4) London* (6,7) 19:20 Minsk via Daugavpils 07:45 Moscow** 14:30 (4,6) Munich** (1,6) 07:05 St. Petersburg* 10:30 St. Petersburg** 19:45 (4,5) Stuttgart** (1,7) 11:40 Tallinn* 13:15 Tallinn* 17:20 Tallinn* 16:15 Tallinn 23:10 Tallinn* 23:15 Tallinn** 22:45 Tartu* 12:15 Vilnius* 16:05 Vilnius* 20:05 Vilnius 23:30 Vilnius* To Dep 20:00 06:30 08:50 21:00 08:30 19:00 09:00 15:00 07:25 21:00 09:10 19:00 14:30 23:35 20:30 09:20 12:30 17:00 18:30 14:00 07:00 06:30 06:45 10:00 16:00 07:00 21:00 Riga Arr 18:00 18:55 18:55 06:00 13:00 13:00 14:35 19:05 18:00 16:30 21:05 09:15 18:55 10:50 07:30 18:55 17:15 21:35 23:10 18:15 11:25 10:30 10:50 14:05 20:05 11:05 01:15 3 Long-distance buses Bus Station (Autoosta) J-3, Prāgas 1, tel. 90 00 00 09, www.autoosta.lv. The bus station is open from 05:00 - 24:00. For information try the info centre (08:00 - 21:00) next to the main entrance. Riga is linked to major European cities in the East and West. The bus is quicker and cheaper than the train but they often fill up quickly, especially during the summer. Ticket counters 1 - 9 sell tickets to all local destinations. For buses to Kyiv, Moscow and Western Europe visit the international ticket office or starptautiskā kase next to the waiting room or contact the following: Ecolines J-3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), tel. 67 21 45 12, ecolines@ecolines.lv, www.ecolines.net. Buses to a number of destinations throughout Europe. QOpen 07:00 - 21:30. Also on C-5, Čaka 45, tel. 67 27 44 44. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Eurolines J-3, Prāgas 1 (Bus station), tel. 67 21 40 80, www.eurolines.lv. Avoid the crowds at the ticket counter and buy e-tickets online on its website. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. A Nordeka Dzirciema 121, tel. 67 46 46 20, www. nordeka.lv. Operate both foreign and domestic bus routes. Tickets can be bought at the station any day of the week. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Taxis Lady Taxi Tel. 27 80 09 00. Only hire female drivers. Rīgas Taksometru Parks Tel. 80 00 13 13, www. rtp.lv. Q A Riga Taxi Tel. 80 00 10 10, www.taxi.lv. Smile Taxi Tel. 22 33 03 30/67 26 25 25, www. taksometrs.lv. * Eurolines ** Ecolines (Norma-A) Buses run daily except where noted otherwise (numbers in parentheses indicate days of departure; ex. indicates days when there are no departures). Schedule subject to change. Car rental AddCar Rental Airport, tel. 67 66 82 55/26 58 96 74, fax 67 66 82 56, riga@addcarrental.com, www.addcarrental.com. An inexpensive alternative to the large brand name car rental agencies. Short and long term rental of new cars for travel in all three Baltic nations. Q A Auto Tel. 29 58 04 48, www.carsrent.lv. Only €40 - 50/day and an English-speaking driver can also be hired if you don’t feel like sitting at the wheel. It also offers 24-hour reservation, unlimited mileage and free delivery to any Riga address. Q Open 24hrs. Autorent H-2, Olīvu 9, tel. 28 28 88 28, info@rentalcar.lv, www. rentalcar.lv. New and used cars for very low prices. Free delivery in Riga and the airport. Unlimited mileage. Q Open 24hrs. A Baltic Car Lease - Sixt Franchisee Airport, tel. 67 20 71 21, fax 67 20 71 31, rent@sixt.lv, www.sixt.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A EgiCarRent Jelgava, Tērvetes 80, tel. 29 53 10 44, fax 63 02 63 39, egicarrent@egi.lv, www.egi.lv. This company will deliver the Volvo car of your choosing to the airport or anywhere in Latvia 24 hours a day. Q Open 24hrs. A Europcar C-4, Tērbatas 10/12, tel. 67 22 26 37, fax 67 82 03 60, europcar@europcar.lv, www.europcar.lv. Q Also at the airport, tel. 67 20 78 25. A RC October - November 2008 4 getting Around inyourpocket.com Long distance train schedule From Dep 07:10 16:10 17:25 18:40 11:00 18:30 06:35 13:54 18:05 16:20 18:10 19:30 18:15 16:45 Riga Arr 10:57 19:05 21:07 22:57 14:07 21:37 09:42 17:05 21:01 09:41 12:16 09:10 20:56 21:40 City Daugavpils Daugavpils Daugavpils Gulbene Liepāja (6,7) Liepāja Lugaži Lugaži Lugaži Moscow Moscow St.Petersburg Ventspils Zilupe To Dep 07:18 06:12 17:57 03:57 14:35 06:00 05:34 10:35 17:37 19:10 21:02 22:08 06:20 03:39 Riga Arr 10:58 09:00 21:52 08:02 17:48 09:10 08:40 13:39 20:39 10:05 12:20 09:40 09:05 08:30 In Your Pocket is more than a print city guide. Besides our wide range of locally produced and indispensable booklets, we also publish guides to more than 50 cities in online format at our awardwinning website, inyourpocket.com. Here you will find a huge batch of web exclusive content, from features on obscure Romanians to how the residents of St. Petersburg propose marriage to each other. You will also find all the content from our city guides, and more besides: there are hundreds of hotel and restaurant reviews online we simply don’t have space for in print. What’s more, when our eager team of writers and researchers updates any information you will find out about it first online: no waiting for the next print guide to come out, just visit inyourpocket. com. You will also find our entire range of city guides available to download, for free, in PDF format. In Your Pocket is the only travel publisher in the world offering its entire content in this easy to access way. Get involved If you’ve seen a review in any of our guides that you think is wildly wide of the mark (or indeed spot on) then tell the world: all venues on our website now have a comments module allowing you to share your opinions not just with our writers but with hundreds of thousands of website users (inyourpocket.com receives more than 200,000 unique visitors every month, who view more than one million pages). There is also our lively, if off-beat, blog, where you can share the editorial team’s thoughts on politics, Bulgarian talent shows and global warming, as well as find bags of information on how an In Your Pocket guide is put together. Moscow: First at inyourpocket.com The full content of Moscow In Your Pocket - which will appear in print very soon - is now available online, at inyourpocket.com. Plus, by the time you open up the next issue of In Your Pocket, we will have launched our new-look website: packed with added features and easier than ever to use. Make sure you check inyourpocket. com regulalrly. Trains to Sigulda, Jūrmala, Jelgava and Cēsis depart the central station often. For exact times visit www.ldz.lv. Schedule subject to change. Public transport Riga has 11 tram lines, 23 trolleybus routes and 39 bus routes. A ride anywhere in the city costs a flat 0.40Ls (0.50Ls if you buy your ticket from a tram or trolleybus driver). You must purchase tickets from the conductor or driver on regular buses. Tram and trolleybus tickets can be bought at Narvesen or Plus Punkts kiosks around town and must be placed in the time stamping machines on board. Cards valid for one month of travel can be bought at most kiosks. Use public transport from 05:30 to 24:00. Some routes also have a night service every hour. For 0.40 - 0.50Ls you can take a mikroautobuss, which doesn’t make as many stops. Read more about routes and departure times in English on the Tram and Trolleybus Authority’s excellent website www.rigassatiksme.lv. RC Tours & Travel Area Tours Tel. 29 58 04 48. A jolly Latvian man will take you on English-language tours around the country with a car or van. Available day or night. Impro C-4, Merķeļa 13, tel. 67 22 13 12, fax 67 22 12 56, www.impro.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Kolumbs Juniors C-4, Raiņa 21, tel. 67 21 21 21, fax 67 28 25 28, www.kolumbs.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Trains Central Station (Centrālā Stacija) D-4, Stacijas laukums, tel. 1181/67 23 11 81 . Tickets for immediate departures have to be bought in the main ticket hall on the right side of the main entrance, counters N°1 to 13. Tickets for international trains are sold at counters N°1 to 6. For overnight trips to Minsk or St. Petersburg choose the more luxurious coupe, four-bunk compartments or, on the train to Moscow, the first class SV, two-bunk compartments, with video and on-board service. Do not confuse perons (the platform) and ceļš (the track). They are numbered separately in Latvia and can be quite confusing. Pietur means stops and nepietur means doesn’t stop, so if you see a train schedule with a list of towns and cities in the margin, it is best to check whether the train stops there or not. QOpen 05:00 - 24:00. Latvian Railways (Latvijas Dzelzceļš) D-4, Gogoļa 3, tel. 1181/67 23 11 81 , www.ldz.lv. Riga In Your Pocket MAil & phones Like most Europeans, Latvians are absolutely mad for new technological gadgets and most locals wouldn’t be caught dead with last year’s mobile phone. Wireless internet is also sweeping the nation and even the post office has been modernised, excluding, of course, some of its elder staff that still insist on barking orders at patrons.  Postal rates Within Latvia Baltics Europe Farther afield Letters 0.22Ls 0.31Ls 0.45Ls 0.55Ls Postcards 0.15Ls 0.22Ls 0.30Ls 0.40Ls Express mail Autopasts J-3, Prāgas 1, tel. 67 22 96 84, www. autopasts.lv. Delivery by bus to major cities in the Baltics, Helsinki, Kaliningrad and Minsk. Located in the back of the bus station on the canal side. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. City Express (Moped couriers) B-4, Skolas 30, tel. 67 27 81 27, www.cityexpress.lv. 24-hour deliveries available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. DHL Mārupe, Plieņciema 35, tel. 80 00 03 45, lvwebcust@dhl.com, www.dhl.lv. DHL offers a full range of customised services from express document shipping to supply chain management. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. FedEx Zemitāna 2b, tel. 80 00 53 00/67 84 36 30, www. fedex.com/lv. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. HRX Express Dzelzavas 120j, tel. 67 50 59 69, fax 67 50 59 60, www.hrx.lv. Specialise in delivery of packages and cargo to Scandinavia, the Baltics and Poland. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Public telephones Public telephones are all over town. Telephone cards worth 2 and 5Ls can be bought at any post office and most shops. Digital rules apply. Cards and digital telephone booths are also available throughout the countryside. The number of each booth and dialling instructions are listed inside. Lattelecom Tel. 80 00 80 40, www.lattelecom.lv. Telephone The explosive demand for phone numbers has prompted the government to move from a seven-digit to an eight-digit system. A 2 now precedes all mobile phone numbers and a 6 has been added to all fixed numbers, except 800 and 900 numbers. To call numbers and mobile phones just dial the eight-digit number. The same applies to numbers outside of Riga. Old two digit regional codes were simply added to the old five-digit numbers. These are now also preceded by a 6. Confused? Don’t be. Just dial the eight-digit number of the subscriber. To any other country: dial the international access code 00 followed by the country code, the city code and the number. Operator: national tel. 116, international tel. 115. Information: tel. 80 00 80 40. Lattelecom directory inquiry: tel. 1188. Private directory services: tel. 117. Lattelecom B-3, Dzirnavu 16, tel. 80 00 80 40, www. lattelecom.lv. ISPs Apollo C-4, Dzirnavu 105, tel. 80 00 81 14, www.apollo.lv. Izzi Ieriķu 67a, tel. 67 03 10 00, www.izzi.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Lattelecom Technology A-4, Skanstes 13, tel. 67 02 00 00, www.lattelecom.technology.lv. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mobile phones FivePlus Tel. 67 35 55 77, www.fiveplus.lv. An MVNO (Mobile Virtual Network Operator) offering competitive rates. LMT Ropažu 6, tel. 80 00 00 76/67 77 35 11, www. lmt.lv.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tele2 Mūkusalas 41b, tel. 67 06 00 69, www.tele2. lv. Wireless internet Lattelecom WiFi If you’d like to check your email or just surf the net while sipping a cappuccino or beer then all you have to do is find a café with the Wi-Fi symbol and purchase a card behind the bar. Your laptop must have a WLAN Wi-Fi 802.11b network adapter and the necessary software installed which comes standard in all new portable PCs. For more information about this service and a list of participating bars and restaurants visit www.wifi.lv. Post Central Post Office H-3, Brīvības bulv. 32, tel. 67 50 28 15/80 00 80 01, www.pasts.lv.QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Post Office B-4, Elizabetes 41/43, tel. 67 33 16 09. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Post Office I-3, Aspazijas 24, tel. 67 01 87 71, www. pasts.lv. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Laptop login Assuming the you have the RJ-11 plug on the end of your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you don’t), simply dial tel. 90 00 80 80 from anywhere in the country using your dial-up software of choice and away you go. No username or password required, it’s that simple. If you’re using a hotel telephone line then you might be charged at their standard local call rate, so check with the front desk first. See www.lattelecom.lv for more information. GPRS Laptop and/or PDA owners with a GPRS mobile phone who need to keep in touch will be pleased to hear that at least one of the mobile phone operators in Latvia offers GPRS services. Telephone codes International country codes Norway 47 France 33 Austria 43 Poland 48 Germany 49 Australia 61 Russia 7 Greece 30 Belgium 32 Spain 34 Ireland 353 Canada/USA 1 Sweden 46 Israel 972 Cuba 53 Switzerland 41 Italy 39 Czech Rep. 420 Turkey 90 Japan 81 Denmark 45 Ukraine 380 Latvia 371 Estonia 372 UK 44 Lithuania 370 Finland 358 The above international country codes should be prefixed with 00 if dialling from inside Latvia. October - November 2008  shopping What to buy in Latvia Amber The petrified sap isn’t as plentiful as it is in Lithuania or Kaliningrad, but it still washes up on Latvian beaches. It’s sold in all souvenir shops and there are dozens of amber stalls behind St. Peter’s Church, on Vaļņu iela behind Hotel Riga and on Līvu laukums. Antiques You can find antique shops in and around Old Riga, but a general rule of thumb seems to be that the closer you get to Dome Square the more expensive the antiques become. If you’re looking for good deals on old unpolished, unframed materials, try the shops on C-5, Avotu iela between Ģertrudes and Matīsa streets. Of the antique shops listed on this page we recommend Antikvariāts Del Arte and Retro A. For old books in Russian, German and Latvian you can’t beat Jumava. Art Nouveau souvenirs Nothing screams Riga like a screaming gargoyle. Buy Art Nouveau silk scarves, postcards, ceramic dishes, books and best of all, plaster busts based on beautiful heads seen on the city’s most impressive early 20th-century facades at Art Nouveau Riga, B-3 Strēlnieku 9. Local food The following can be found in any supermarket: Latvian rye (rupjmaize) and sourdough (saldskābmaize) breads are delicious, and easily transported. Sprats (šprotes), similar to sardines, are the perfect snack to go with the Latvian vodka you bought. Finally, the Latvians revere their honey (medus) like the French do their wine so why not give it a try. Music Music is absolutely essential to Latvian life. The first Latvian Song Festival held in 1873 actually sowed the seeds of eventual statehood for Latvians. The opera is one of the most revered institutions in Latvia and even a cash-strapped Richard Wagner conducted and composed in Riga for a brief spell before he had to flee from his creditors. Upe (I-2, Vāgnera 5, tel. 67 22 61 19, www.upett.lv. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun) has the best selection of Latvian folk, rock and classical CDs in Riga. Riga Black Balzams Originally intended as a cure-all elixir, Balzams has been made and consumed in Riga since the late 18th century and is still used today to alleviate hangovers and stomach-aches and as the main ingredient in many local cocktails. Consisting of over 24 herbal ingredients, it looks like used motor oil and is sold in charming ceramic jugs. Try it in coffee, with currant juice or the more daring can imbibe it neat. Smokes We don’t condone unhealthy habits such as smoking, but if you’re already hooked and don’t mind the risks, major international brands can be bought in Latvia for rock-bottom prices. Soviet memorabilia Many collectors have cashed in on the demise of the Soviet Union by buying up cheap nickknacks, medals and busts of Lenin. Buy all the red remnants you crave in most antique shops around town. Sweets The Laima factory in Riga has been producing delicious chocolates since 1870. They can be found in any supermarket or at Laima shops around town. For something more exotic buy an assortment of chocolate including Balzams and beer truffles from Emihls Gustavs at Berga Bazārs and most shopping centres. Photo by M.Zaprauskis. Alcohol & Tobacco Latvijas Balzams J-3, Audēju 8, tel. 67 22 88 14. Over 50 different Latvian alcoholic beverages including the famous Rīga Black Balsam. Also sells Balzams t-shirts while supplies last. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also on I-2, Šķūņu 16; I-3, Vaļņu 21; C-5, Čaka 58; D-4, Marijas 1; and many other locations. A Tabakas Nams (Tobacco House) H-2, Vaļņu 8, tel. 67 22 58 97. Alcohol and plenty of cigars. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also on B-4, Dzirnavu 31; C-4, Brīvības 37. A Antiques 15 68. Small shop offering a bit of everything including paintings, porcelain, books, old records, Soviet medals, a great selection of antique postcards and even vintage handbags. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Galerija C-4, Dzirnavu 53, tel. 67 28 29 78. Soviet memorabilia, books, coins and assorted nick-nacks. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Jumava I-3, Vāgnera 12, tel. 67 22 76 29. Antique books in German, Russian and Latvian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Retro A B-6, Tallinas 54, tel. 67 31 53 06. Messy and filled to the rafters, it has all the makings of a good antique shop. Porcelain, paintings, icons, war memorabilia, Soviet nick-nacks, books, furniture and even busts of Lenin and Hitler. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Antikvariāts Del Arte C-4, Barona 16/18, tel. 29 48 Books Globuss I-3, Vaļņu 26, tel. 67 22 69 57. A large selection of of classic English-language literature as well as a some contemporary novels. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A Jāņa Rozes C-4, Barona 5, tel. 67 28 42 88, www. jr.lv. The largest chain of bookshops in Latvia, Jāņa Rozes sells everything from dictionaries and cookbooks to Englishlanguage literature and guidebooks. Also sell office supplies. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at C-5, Blaumaņa 31, tel. 67 24 04 13. A Jāņa Sēta C-4, Elizabetes 83/85, tel. 67 24 08 94, www.mapshop. lv. Latvia’s largest selection of maps and travel books, not to metnion a wide variety of In Your Pocket guides. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A RC Valters un Rapa I-3, Aspazijas 24, tel. 67 22 74 82, www.valtersunrapa.lv. This book shop on three floors is probably the biggest in the Baltics. Mostly Latvian and Russian books, as well as local maps and guides. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A Flowers Anemone C-4, Marijas 13, tel. 67 24 33 33. Classy flower shop for the well-heeled. QOpen 1:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Elizete B-3, Elizabetes 25, tel. 67 32 24 09, www. elizete.lv. Also provide flower delivery in Latvia and abroad. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Flower Market C-4, Tērbatas by Vērmanes Garden. The biggest selection of flowers from near and far. Q Open 24hrs. Kallas zieds C-5, Ģertrūdes 62, tel. 67 24 44 01. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Linda I-3, Zirgu 3, tel. 67 21 13 59. A quick option in Old Riga. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Riga In Your Pocket shopping Gifts & Souvenirs Art Nouveau Riga B-3, Strēlnieku 9, tel. 67 33 30 30, www.artnouveauriga.lv. The only shop in Riga to exclusively sell Art Nouveau merchandise. Buy small plaster faces from Riga’s most famous facades, silk scarves with Art Nouveau designs, mugs, greeting cards, books and linens. Naturally, it’s located at the end of Alberta iela, the city’s most impressive Art Nouveau street. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A Cool Cats I-3, Jāņa 12, tel. 29 35 56 55, www.coolcats. lv. Run by a Canadian-Latvian, this souvenir shop specialises in quality clothing from sweatshirts, hats and Ts to official Latvian hockey, football and basketball jerseys.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Sāmsalas kalēji I-2, Laipu 6/4, tel. 67 22 44 96, www. samsalaskaleji.lv. The so-called Blacksmiths from Saaremaa sell all kinds of handmade items from door handles to candelabras. Call ahead on Sundays to make sure it’s open. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A Senā Klēts C-4, Merķeļa 13, tel. 67 24 23 98, www. senaklets.lv. Latvian folk costumes pret a porter or made to order as well as jewellery, tablecloths and blankets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Tīne H-2, Vaļņu 2, tel. 67 21 67 28. An astounding amount of goods crafted by artisans from all over Latvia. Rows of mittens and hats, jewellery, ceramics and other souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Tornis J-2, Grēcinieku ielā 11-2 (entrance from Pēterbaznīcas), tel. 67 22 02 70, www.balturotas.lv. Ancient Baltic designs as well as modern pieces can all be found at the ‘Tower.’ Visit its excellent website for more information. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A  Music Upe I-2, Vāgnera 5, tel. 67 22 61 19, www.upett.lv. Upe, or river in English, is owned by local Latvian celebrity Ainars Mielavs. The shop sells folk music from around the globe including Latvian CDs as well as traditional instruments and souvenirs. The outlet on Vaļņu is more mainstream and less folksy. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also on I-3, Vaļņu 26, tel. 67 20 55 09. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A Shoes Birkenstock Duntes 19a (Sky & More). Choose from a wide variety of sandals, clogs and children’s styles from one of the world’s leading footwear firms. Sativa bags and wallets made from ecologically grown hemp are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A Shopping centres Galerija Centrs I-3, Audēju 16, tel. 67 01 80 18, www.galerijacentrs.lv. Already a shopping centre in the 1920s and 1930s, it was renovated in the 1990s and most recently in 2006. It now occupies nearly an entire block of Old Riga and houses cafés, a supermarket, and dozens of trendy shops. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Ground floor open 08:00 - 22:00. A Latvija Shopping Arcade C-4, Elizabetes 55 (Reval Hotel Latvija). A variety of shops that sell anything from souvenirs and home wares to gourmet delicacies and fast food hotdogs. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A Origo D-4, Stacijas laukums 2, tel. 67 07 30 30, www. origo.lv. Straddling the central train station, this vast shopping centre on three floors offers countless shops with everything under the sun. Includes a supermarket (open 07:00 -24:00) and a few restaurants. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Stockmann J-3, 13. janvāra 8, tel. 67 07 12 00, www. stockmann.lv. Four floors of retail space are at your disposal including fashion, a huge selection of tableware, appliances and other items for your home, the biggest cosmetics shop in Riga and, best of all, the Stockmann supermarket and delicatessen. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A Health food Biotēka I-2, Šķūņu 12/14, tel. 67 21 12 68. Latvia’s first health food shop offers certified organic, fairtrade, nonGM, vegetarian and vegan food, as well as a wide variety of organic juices, spice teas, Ayurvedic remedies and skin care products, food supplements, natural cruelty-free cosmetics and eco-friendly household cleaners. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also on B-5, Cēsu 12, tel. 67 37 22 06; D-1, Slokas 12, tel. 67 45 55 77; Duntes 19a (Sky & More - ground floor), tel. 67 85 34 45. A Markets Central Market D-4, Centrāltirgus 1, tel. 67 22 99 85, www.centraltirgus.lv. This giant bazaar with its five huge aircraft hangars is a truly fascinating place to visit. Buy meat, fish and produce inside. Buy CDs, appliances and clothing outside of the hangars for suspiciously low prices. Opening hours differ slightly for each pavilion. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Sweets Emihls Gustavs Chocolate C-4, Marijas 13/VI (Berga bazārs), tel. 67 28 39 59, www.sokolade.lv. Friendly staff are keen to offer useful suggestions on sinfully rich chocolates to eat on the premises or to take away. Gift-wrapping also available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also on I-3, Aspazijas bulv. 24, tel. 67 22 83 33. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00; and at most shopping centres. A October - November 2008  sports Ballooning Altius Mūkusalas 41, tel. 67 61 16 14, www.altius.lv. Up to three people can take to the skies for 120Ls/person year-round depending on weather conditions. Hockey: Dynamo Riga The Kontinental (sic) Hockey League, the successor to the Russian Super Hockey League, may not be as prestigious as the NHL in North America, but like most things Russian, its sheer scope is enormous. Spread out over a dozen time zones, the new league also includes three teams from beyond the borders of the Russian Federation. Dynamo Riga (Latvia), Dynamo Minsk (Belarus) and Barys Astana (Kazakhstan) will compete with 21 Russian teams in the 2008-2009 season. Each team is also allowed a certain number of foreign players and major talents in the league include the likes of hockey god Jaromir Jagr. Many of the teams have adopted or kept their Soviet-era names, hence all of the dynamos, locomotives and metal lurgists. So far Dynamo Riga has done well winning its debut match as well as its first three home games. Unfortunately, the team suffered a setback when its goalkeeper, Edgars Masaļskis, was beaten up by local ruffians after a night of heavy drinking in Old Riga in mid-September. He required an ankle operation and doctors believe that he won’t be able to return to the ice for at least a few of months. Most Dynamo Riga home games take place at Arena Riga, A-4, Skanstes 21, www.arenariga.com. Tickets can be bought at the arena three days prior to a match or at Biļešu serviss (www.bilesuserviss.lv) outlets throughout the city. For more information about Riga’s team visit www.dinamoriga. eu. Upcoming fixtures at Arena Riga include: October Date Time Game 01 19:30 Dynamo Riga v. Dynamo Moscow 09 19:30 Dynamo Riga v. SKA St.Petersburg 11 17:00 Dynamo Riga v. Severstal Cherepovets 13 19:30 Dynamo Riga v. Locomotive Yaroslavl November 24 19:30 Dynamo Riga v. Lada Togliatti 27 19:30 Dynamo Riga v. Metallurg Magnitogorsk 29 17:00 Dynamo Riga v. Salavat Yulaev Ufa Bicycle rental Gandrs D-1, Kalnciema 28, tel. 67 61 47 75, www. gandrs.lv. Rent a mountain bike for 6Ls/day with a passport or driving license plus a 20Ls deposit. Also rent helmets and baby chairs as well as tents and other camping gear. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Bowling Bowlero Lielirbes 27, tel. 67 80 46 00, www.bowlero. lv. This ultramodern entertainment centre offers 24 bowling lanes (7 - 13Ls depending on time), pool tables, a bar, and a trendy, upmarket restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. A RC Islande C-2, Ķīpsalas 20, tel. 67 60 80 16, www.islandehotel.lv. Six lanes in the cellar of the stylish Hotel Islande for 5.90 - 9.90Ls/hour. A bar and two pool tables are also available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. A Toss Ķengaraga 6, tel. 67 13 59 00, www.toss.lv. With 24 lanes (5.40 - 13.20Ls/hour), it’s one of the largest bowling halls in the Baltics, featuring among other things pool tables, darts, a restaurant and, surprise, a bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Zelta boulinga centrs E-2, Uzvaras 2/4, tel. 67 61 07 07, www.zelta.lv. 22 lanes for 5.99 - 13.49Ls/hour, four squash courts, one tennis court, 11 pool tables, indoor mini-football, arcade games and a bar/restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Entertainment centres Go Planet G. Astras 2b, tel. 67 14 63 46, www.goplanet.lv. Explore 15,000m2 of indoor attractions including go-carts, a laser tag labyrinth, a Formula 1 simulator, the only 4D cinema in Eastern Europe, virtual reality gear, pool tables, children’s games and more. Three bars, a kids’ cafe and a restaurant are also at your disposal. Take trolleybus N°17 from Brīvības or N°23 from Čaka to the ‘Mēbeļu nams’ stop and walk up one block. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. A Football After a convincing victory over Moldova on September 6, Latvia lost their World Cup qualifier just as convincingly to Greece on September 10. If you’d like to see the Latvian national side take on Israel then head on down to the Skonto Stadium (B-4, Melngaiļa 1a) on October 15 to see if this small Baltic nation can fight their way to a South African pitch in 2010. Tickets can usually be bought at the stadium right up until kick off. For Champions League, Premiership and Bundesliga matches via satellite try the following pubs: Paddy Whelan’s, Red Fred or Stars. Fitness clubs & Gyms A+S C-5, Lāčplēša 60, tel. 67 28 95 67. QOpen 07:00 Atlantis C-5, Lāčplēša 38, tel. 67 28 08 70, atlantis@ atlantis.lv, www.atlantis.lv. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. A Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A City Fitness C-4, Marijas ielā 13/8 (Berga Bazārs), tel. 67 28 85 85, www.cityfitness.lv. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. A Joker klubs A-3, Katrīnas 12, tel. 67 09 98 00/67 09 98 01, www.jokerklubs.lv. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Radisson SAS Wellness Centre D-2, Kuģu 24, tel. 67 06 11 24. One of the few fitness centres in the city to have its own swimming pool. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A Reaktors A-3, Rūpniecības 27, tel. 67 50 92 10. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 20:00. Riga In Your Pocket sports Paintball Latvian Paintball Club B-4, Valdemāra 40, tel. 67 29 14 00, www.paintball.lv. Bring your friends and choose from a variety of indoor and outdoor locations in Riga. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.  Saunas Baltā pirts B-6, Tallinas 71, tel. 67 27 17 33, www. baltapirts.lv. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (cashier is open until one hour before closing). Pirts Māras Muižiņas Jelagava Region, Vircava, tel. 26 32 36 08. Traditional Latvian sauna, country B&B, wholesome country food and bread baking demonstrations. Shooting galleries Photo ID is required, so don’t forget to bring your passport. Autumn Esplanade M.Zaprauskis D Dupleks Brīvības 197, tel. 67 27 17 97/29 12 33 89. Real guns and live rounds, under close supervision, of course. Take tram N°11 from Barona across the VEF bridge to the VEF stop. Q By appointment only. Regro S C-1, Daugavgrīvas 31, tel. 67 60 17 05. Shooting with real guns in an underground Soviet fallout shelter. Choose from a wide variety of pistols and even automatic weapons from old Lugers to Uzis. Remember you’re charged for ammunition so a few seconds with an AK-47 could cost you dearly. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Sundays by appointment only. Riga Out There Tel. 29 38 94 50/67 48 24 43, www. out-there.eu. Don’t want to learn Russian just to fire a weapon? Afraid to communicate with Ivan when he’s got a Kalashnikov in his hands? The people at Riga Out There will organise a shooting session and do the talking for you. QA tel. 67 75 56 40, www.akvaparks.lv. Latvia’s largest indoor aqua park charges an exorbitant 9.50 - 10.90Ls/adult for two hours of fun, but children under six can go for free. A wave pool, children’s pool, outdoor pool, water slides and other attractions are all at your disposal as well as a poolside bar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AB Radisson SAS Wellness Centre D-2, Kuģu 24, tel. 67 06 11 24. A swimming pool, sauna and gym for are all at your disposal just across the river. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A Riga Technical University (Alex) C-2, Ķīpsala 5, tel. 67 61 69 89, www.baseins.lv. Large swimming pool for 4.50 - 6Ls/45 minutes. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Līvu akvaparks Lielupe (Jūrmala), Vienības gatve 36, Tennis Enri Kalnciema 207, tel. 67 20 75 50, www.enri.lv. Indoor and outdoor courts for 6 - 12Ls/hour. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Also at Stirnu 34a, tel. 67 80 22 08. A Skydiving Aerodium LGK atrakcijas, Sigulda, tel. 28 38 44 00, www.aerodium.lv. If you’ve ever wanted to skydive, but decided that the risk was too great or the height too daunting, then the people at Aerodium have designed the perfect adrenalin ride for you. The only vertical wind tunnel in Eastern Europe is only a short ride from the Latvian capital just outside of Sigulda. Professional instructors will teach you all you need to know in only 20 minutes and then you’ll be ready to feel what it’s like to jump out of a plane but without the usual worry of a defective parachute and a life-ending bounce on the ground. A helmet, goggles, flight suit and other accessories are provided. Geronimo! QOpen 16:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Price: starting at 15Ls/2 minutes. Book a flight time in advance. Zelta boulinga centrs E-2, Uzvaras bulv. 2/4, tel. 67 61 87 78, www.zelta.lv. One indoor court for 12 - 25Ls/hour depending on the time of day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. A Olympic roundup The Olympics have come and gone largely without incident. Tibetan monks didn’t storm the Bird’s Nest, tanks didn’t mow any innocent bystanders down on Tiananmen Square and the Chinese collected a large number of medals as was expected. However, when you compare Latvia’s population of 2.3 million people to China’s billion or so, then a gold, a silver and a bronze in the summer Olympics doesn’t seem like such a bad result for this small, cold, northern nation. Viktors Ščerbatihs had to settle for the bronze in weightlifting after being denied a second try due to a technicality, Ainārs Kovals stunned Latvians and the world by taking the silver with a fantastic throw of the javelin and, as expected, Māris Štrombergs, the current World BMX Champion disappointed his American bronze and silver competitors by taking the gold. Other Latvian Olympic achievements included a crushing defeat of the American beach volleyball duo of Rogers and Dalhausser, who later claimed the gold, by local boys Mārtiņš Pļaviņš and Aleksandrs Samoilovs and a hard-fought victory by the Latvian women’s basketball team against the favoured Brazilians. Swimming pools Akvalande E-3, Mūkusalas 45/47, tel. 67 62 97 00, www.akvalande.lv. Three swimming pools including a 100m long circular pool, waterslides, a children’s pool as well as a bar. Adults 5 - 6Ls, children 3 - 5Ls. QOpen 10:00 - 21:30. A Atlantis C-5, Lāčplēša 38, tel. 67 28 08 70, www. atlantis.lv. This small fitness club has a long, narrow pool that is available to the public for a fee. Daugavas sporta nams B-6, Barona 107, tel. 67 31 77 63, www.bjscdaugava.lv. Two swimming pools, small and large, as well as a rowing pool. Water aerobics, sauna and café also available. Adults 3 - 4.50Ls/45 minutes. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. October - November 2008 0 liFestyle direCtory Need to buy aspirin for your Balsam induced headache, visit a doctor or dentist, find a locksmith or get get a stain out of your favourite jacket? Read on. 24-hour exchange Marika D/C-4, Brīvības 30, tel. 67 28 08 75. Currency exchange booths (valūtas maiņa) offer decent rates. Torn notes or those with any scribblings are often refused by most banks and exchanges. Q Open 24hrs. Also on H-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 14, tel. 67 22 98 33. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Cleaners Nivāla C-4, Akas 4, tel. 67 28 13 46. Wash your own clothes or just drop them off and have the staff do it for you. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Ezersēta guest house near Raiskums M.Zaprauskis Vienmēr Tīrs C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from Ģertrūdes), tel. 67 27 24 71. Dry cleaners and laundromat. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Latvian - American Eye Centre C-6, Tallinas 93, tel. 67 27 22 57, www.laac.lv. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Latvian Red Cross C-4, Skolas 1, tel. 67 33 66 51. Dentists A+S Health Centre C-5, Lāčplēša 60, tel. 67 28 95 16. DS Medical Centre C-4, Elizabetes 57, tel. 67 22 99 Paul Stradiņš Clinical University Hospital (Paula Stradiņa Klīniskā universitātes slimnīca) Pilsoņu 13, tel. 67 06 96 00, www.stradini.lv. Q Open 24hrs. State Plastic and Reconstructive Microsurgery Centre Hipokrāta 2, tel. 67 04 26 42, www.plasticsurgery.lv. 42, fax 67 28 94 13. English-speaking dentists. Elladent B-3, Vīlandes 18, tel. 67 33 30 04, www. elladent.lv. Sandent B-4, Hanzas 6, tel. 67 33 44 26, www. sandent.lv. www.vanagaklinika.lv. Modern facilities. Recommended by expats. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at A-5, Miera 39, tel. 67 37 42 55. A Pharmacies Mēness aptieka C-4, Elizabetes 91/93, tel. 67 50 22 30. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Also on B-5, Brīvības 121, tel. 67 37 78 89. Open 24hrs; C-4, Raiņa 17, tel. 67 22 41 70. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A Tallinas aptieka B-6, Tallinas 57b, tel. 67 31 42 11. Q Open 24 hrs. Vecpilsētas Mēness aptieka I-3, Vaļņu 28 (entrance from Audēju), tel. 67 21 33 40. Q Open 24hrs. A Vanags’ Dental Clinic (Vanaga zobārstniecības klīnika) A-5, Cēsu 31-k2, tel. 67 22 07 35/29 14 19 34, Massage Taka Spa G-1, Kronvalda bulv. 3a, tel. 67 32 31 50, www.takaspa.lv. An upmarket spa in the centre of Riga offering a wide variety of treatments from traditional massage to coconut rub and milk ritual wraps. Pools, saunas and exercise classes also available. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Riga for kids Eating out Finding child-friendly restaurants and cafés in Riga can sometimes be a bit of a chore, but a few have realised that providing a play area for children can actually add to their bottom line. Vairāk Saules (C-4, Dzirnavu 60, tel. 67 28 28 78) offers a kids’ menu and all the legos a child could ever want and T.G.I.Friday’s (I-2, Kaļķu 6, tel. 67 22 90 70) offers colouring books, a kids’ menu and sometimes even balloons. Educational trips The Open-Air Ethnographic Museum (Brīvības gatve 440, tel. 67 99 45 15) is a great place for kids. Not only can children learn about Latvian customs and rural living, but they can also see people in period costume performing various tasks like shaping iron at the blacksmith’s. The Riga National Zoo (see What to see) is always a good option for kids. Just for fun Līvu Akvaparks (Jūrmala, Lielupe, Vienības gatve 36, tel. 67 75 56 40) offers a wave pool, a children’s pool, six water slides and a tubing river guaranteed to keep the kids happy all day long. The giant Lido Recreation Centre (Krasta 76, tel. 67 50 44 20) also has plenty to offer including a huge inline skating rink and lots of children’s attractions. Medical ARS C-4, Skolas 5, tel. 67 20 10 07/67 20 10 03, www. ars-med.lv. English-speaking doctors. DS Medical Centre C-4, Elizabetes 57, tel. 67 22 99 42, www.dsmc.lv. English-speaking doctors and dentists. Gaiļezera hospital Hipokrāta 2, tel. 67 04 24 24, www. gailes.lv. Q Open 24hrs. Childr en’s Hospital (VAS Bērnu klīniskā universitātes slimnīca) Vienības gatve 45, tel. 67 06 44 99, www.bkus.lv. Q Open 24hrs. Home entertainment DVD Baltija C-5, Bruņinieku 28, tel./fax 67 31 60 96. English-speaking staff and a great selection of films. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Videoplanēta D-4, Stacijas laukums 2 (Origo ground floor). Mostly DVDs for sale, but some are also available to rent. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Riga In Your Pocket oFFiCiAls Foreign representations For even more information about embassies in Riga visit www.mfa.gov.lv/en/ministry/mission. Austria H-2, Elizabetes 15, tel. 67 21 61 25. Azerbaijan G-2, Raiņa bulv. 3-1, tel. 67 14 28 89, www. azembassy.lv. Belarus E-4, Jēzusbaznīcas 12, tel. 67 22 25 60, latvia@ belembassy.org, www.belembassy.org. Belgium B-3, Alberta 13, tel. 67 11 48 52, fax 67 11 48 55, riga@diplobel.be. Brazil (Honorary Consulate) B-3, Pulkveža Brieža 7 628, tel. 29 11 07 91, arturs.stikuts@revalhotels.com. Canada B-4, Baznīcas 20/22, tel. 67 81 39 45, www. dfait-maeci.gc.ca/canada-europa/baltics. China (People’s Republic of) E-3, Ganību dambis 5, tel. 67 35 70 23, chinaemb_lv@mfa.gov.cn. Czech Republic B-3, Elizabetes 29a, tel. 67 21 78 14, riga@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mfa.cz/riga. Denmark H-1, Pils 11, tel. 67 22 62 10, www.ambriga. um.dk. Estonia C-4, Skolas 13, tel. 67 81 20 20, www.estemb.lv. Finland B-3, Kalpaka bulv. 1, tel. 67 07 88 00, sanomat. rii@formin.fi, www.finland.lv. France G-3, Raiņa bulv. 9, tel. 67 03 66 00, www. ambafrance-lv.org. Georgia G-2, Raiņa bulv. 3-19, tel. 67 22 58 12, fax 67 21 31 36, www.latvia.mfa.gov.ge. Germany H-3, Raiņa bulv. 13, tel. 67 08 51 00, www. riga.diplo.de. Greece B-3, Elizabetes 11-5, tel. 67 35 63 45. Hungary B-3, Alberta 4, tel. 67 21 75 00, mission.rix@ kum.hu, www.mfa.gov.hu/emb/riga. Iceland (Consulate General) C-4, Valdemāra 21, tel. 67 03 53 83, ineta@islande.lv, www.islande.lv. Ireland F-3, Alberta 13, tel. 67 03 93 70. Israel B-3, Elizabetes 2, tel. 67 32 07 39, press@rig. mfa.gov.il, http://riga.mfa.gov.il. Italy I-3, Teātra 9, tel. 67 21 60 69, www.ambriga.esteri.it. Japan F-3, Valdemāra 21, tel. 67 81 20 01. Lithuania B-3, Rūpniecības 24, tel. 67 32 15 19, lt@ apollo.lv, http://lv.urm.lt. Moldova H-2, Z.A. Meierovica bulv. 14, tel. 67 35 91 60, fax 67 35 91 65, riga@moldovaembassy.lv. Netherlands H-2, Torņa 4 - Ia, tel. 67 32 61 47, info@ netherlandsembassy.lv, www.netherlandsembassy.lv. Norway H-2, Zirgu 14, tel. 67 81 41 00, www.norvegija.lv. Poland B-3, Mednieku 6b, tel. 67 03 15 00, ambpol@ apollo.lv, www.ryga.polemb.net. Portugal C-2, Balasta dambis 60, tel. 67 82 19 26, fax 67 33 42 33, embporturiga@gmail.com. Russia B-3, Antonijas 2, tel. 67 33 21 51, rusembas@ delfi.lv, www.latvia.mid.ru. Slovakia H-2, Smilšu 8, tel. 67 81 42 80, fax 67 81 42 90, embassy@riga.mfa.sk. Spain B-3, Elizabetes 11, tel. 67 32 02 81. Sweden B-4, Pumpura 8, tel. 67 68 66 00, fax 67 68 66 01, www.swedenabroad.com/riga. Switzerland B-3, Elizabetes 2, tel. 67 33 83 51, fax 67 33 83 54, www.eda.admin.ch/riga. Turkey C-4, A. Pumpura 2, tel. 67 82 16 00, fax 67 32 03 34, turkishembassy.riga@gmail.com. Ukraine B-3, Kalpaka bulv. 3, tel. 67 24 30 82, fax 67 32 55 83, embassy@ml.lv. United Kingdom F-2, Alunāna 5, tel. 67 77 47 00, fax 67 77 47 07, www.britain.lv. United States of America C-4, Raiņa bulv. 7, tel. 67 03 62 00, www.usembassy.lv. Uzbekistan Elizabetes 11 - 11, tel. 67 32 24 24, fax 67 32 23 06, posoluz@apollo.lv, www.latvia.mfa.uz. 1 Government & Municipality Citizenship & Migration Board G-2, Raiņa bulv. 5, tel. 80 00 76 57/67 21 96 56, www.pmlp.lv. Ministry of Foreign Affairs (Ārlietu Ministrija) C-4, Valdemāra 3, tel. 67 01 62 01, www.am.gov.lv. President (Valdis Zatlers) H-1, Pils laukums 3, tel. 67 09 21 06, chancery@president.lv, www.president.lv. Riga City Council (Rīgas dome) I-2, Rātslaukums 1, tel. 80 00 08 00/67 02 61 01, www.rcc.lv. Saeima (Parliament) H-1, Jēkaba 11, tel. 67 08 71 29, www.saeima.lv. Organisations & NGOs American Chamber of Commerce I-2, Torņa 4, 2A, office 301, tel./fax 67 21 22 04, www.amcham.lv. Belgium/Wallonia Trade Office (AWEX) B-3, Alberta 13, tel. 67 03 93 21, www.belgium.apollo.lv. British Council C-4, Blaumaņa 5a - 2, tel. 67 28 17 30, www.britishcouncil.lv. QLibrary open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Mon. British Chamber of Commerce B-4, Valdemāra 33-11, tel. 67 21 80 43, fax 67 21 80 45, www.bccl.lv. Canada-Latvia Business Association B-4, Stabu 17, tel. 67 29 33 61, fax 67 29 33 78, www.clba.lv. European Movement - Latvia B-3, Vīlandes 3-11, tel./fax 67 32 65 48, www.eiropaskustiba.lv. Finpro (Finnish Trade Centre) I-2, Kronvalda bulv. 10, tel. 67 21 60 43. French Cultural Centre C-4, Elizabetes 59, tel. 67 20 18 51, www.ccf.lv. German-Baltic Chamber of Commerce B-3, Vīlandes 1, tel. 67 32 07 18, www.ahk-balt.org. Goethe-Institut Riga H-1, Torņa 1 (entrance from Klostera), tel. 67 50 82 00, www.goethe.de/riga. Latvian Chamber of Commerce B-4, Valdemāra 35, tel. 67 22 55 95, fax 67 82 00 92, www.chamber.lv. Latvian Investment and Development Agency C-4, Pērses 2, tel. 67 03 94 99, www.liaa.gov.lv. Soros Foundation B-3, Alberta 13, tel. 67 03 92 41, fax 67 03 92 42, sfl@sfl.lv, www.sfl.lv. Swedish Chamber of Commerce B-3, Strēlnieku 4a, tel. 67 28 56 67, fax 67 83 02 49, www.scc.lv. The Latvian Institute C-4, Kaļķu 7, tel. 67 50 36 63, fax 67 50 36 69, info@li.lv, www.li.lv. United Nations House H-1, Pils 21, tel. 67 50 36 05. Ursine threats Latvians and their Baltic neighbours are feeling a bit nervous in the wake of the Russian Federation’s August invasion of Georgia. Not unlike Georgia, Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia were captive nations as involuntary republics of the Soviet Union. Even though the Kremlin was furious to lose the strategic Baltics to the European Union, in general, it was largely believed that the Russian generals would never be crazy enough to risk a military incursion to bring the Balts back into Moscow’s sphere of influence… until now. The United States, NATO and Latvia are currently talking about contingency plans should the threat ever become a reality. Apparently, it will take more than the four NATO jet fighters that now patrol Baltic airspace to defend Latvia and its allies from a potential invasion. A NATO anti-cyber terrorism centre has also been created in Tallinn after Estonian websites were attacked by Russian government computers last year. October - November 2008 2 JūrMAlA For over a century Jūrmala has been Riga’s playground, from the elegant days of the 1930s to the years of occupation. Today, much of the Soviet flavour has faded. Many of the hotels have been upgraded to Western standards and the dining scene has improved by leaps and bounds. You too can explore beautiful beaches, soothing spas and seafood restaurants on the Latvian Riviera. Hotel MaMa Majori, Tirgoņu 22, tel. 67 76 12 71, Arriving By train The first train service between Riga and Jūrmala started in 1877. Over a century later the electrichka , electrical commuter train, is still slow and takes 40 minutes from the central train station to Majori. Trains leave frequently from platforms 3 and 4. By minibus Minibuses depart from the Central Minibus Station (opposite the Central Train Station) roughly every five minutes from 06:00 - 24:00. Take the Riga - Sloka, Riga - Dubulti or Riga - Jaunķemeri minibus and ask the driver let you out at Majori. The ride takes 30 minutes and costs 0.60Ls. By airport shuttle A Jūrmala shuttle bus leaves Riga airport roughly every other hour on the hour between 10:00 - 24:00. Visit www.jurmala.lv for exact times. By car Drive along the well-kept 15km long highway from Riga, which is the best stretch of highway in Latvia. All motorists have to stop at the control point to pay a 1Ls/day toll. www.hotelmama.lv. This charming boutique hotel is housed in a lovingly restored wooden cottage. Although its storybook façade almost puts one in mind of a Swiss ski lodge, inside it’s completely modern combining 21st-century conveniences with unique interior design. All rooms are similar in style with silver and white interiors that include climate control, flat screen TVs, free wireless internet access, mini-bar and bathrooms with heated floors. Three apartments with full kitchens are also available and a restaurant run by an Italian chef and a rooftop terrace for sunbathing are also at your disposal. Q7 rooms (4 doubles 90 - 130Ls, 3 apartments 150 - 195Ls). PAK Jūras Banga Majori, Jūras 30, tel. 67 76 23 91, www. jurasbanga.lv. Charming in a shabby-chic kind of way, this relatively inexpensive hotel offers for the most part smallish rooms with TV, refrigerator, slightly outdated, but clean bathrooms and tacky colour schemes - pink and aquamarine don’t mix with wood panelling. Given its prime location next to the beach, one really can’t complain... much. Q (singles 30 - 35Ls, doubles 40Ls, junior suites 60Ls). ALD Kurši Dubulti, Dubultu prosp. 30, tel. 67 87 89 06, www. Hotels Amber Sea Hotel Dzintari, Dzintaru prosp. 68, tel./fax 67 75 12 97, www.amberhotel.lv. Built in a scenic pine forest a short walk from the beach, Amber Sea Hotel has much to offer. Standard doubles include modern furnishings, satellite TV, wireless internet, phone, writing desk and bathrooms with either bathtub or shower, while suites have the added advantage of more space, huge terraces and views of the sea. A spa centre and a restaurant are also available. Q40 rooms (singles 49 - 59Ls, doubles 59 - 69Ls, suites 99 - 150Ls, junior suite 89 - 105Ls). HAFLGKDCW kurshihotel.lv. These contemporary brick and stucco cottages are unlike most other options in town. Almost all doubles and suites are set on two floors, with a small kitchen, living room, private bathroom, cable TV and phone. Splurge on the suite with the bar, fireplace, and two extra bedrooms. Kurši also provides a sauna, pub, banquet hall and a playground. Q 12 apartments 30 - 60Ls. Breakfast not included. THARLKD Lielupe Bulduri, Bulduru prosp. 64/68, tel. 67 75 27 Baltic Beach Hotel Majori, Jūras 23/25, tel. 67 77 14 00, fax 67 77 14 10, www.balticbeach.lv. A wide variety of accommodation is available in three wings of this excellent hotel for guests of all budgets. The A wing has luxurious doubles, suites and apartments that include sea view balconies, satellite TV, minibar, climate control, phone, safe, dataports and bathrobes. C wing rooms offer roughly the same amenities without the views and B wing rooms are spacious, clean and comfortable with new bathrooms, but with Soviet style furnishings. The spa centre is state of the art and the restaurant is one of the best in Jūrmala. Q 165 rooms (singles from 55Ls, doubles from 70Ls, suites from 170Ls, apartments from 140Ls). PHARUFLGKDC 55, fax 67 75 26 94, www.lielupe.lv. This massive hotel offers both business and economy class accommodation. The former are spacious with all of the modern conveniences expected including satellite TV, mini-bar, phone, safe and balconies. The latter are clean and comfortable with oldfashioned furnishings, but are good value-for-money. You can also take advantage of indoor and outdoor swimming pools and tennis courts, the spa centre, a children’s room, bicycle rental and the 10th-floor restaurant with great views. Q207 rooms (singles €36 - 72, doubles €43 - 86, triples €57, suites €170, apartments €242). HARFLGKDC Pegasa Pils Majori, Jūras 60, tel. 67 76 11 49, fax Hotel Jūrmala Spa Majori, Jomas 47/49, tel. 67 78 44 00, fax 67 78 44 11, booking@hoteljurmala.com, www.hoteljurmala.com. Hotel Jūrmala Spa proves that modern lodgings are more than just a place to sleep at night. The huge spa with swimming pools, saunas and treatment rooms is state of the art, the conference facilities including the hall on the 11th floor can accommodate as many as 700 people and the beauty centre offers anything from pedicures to hairstyling. If you actually have time to relax in your room, rest assured that it’s stylishly decorated with natural furnishings made of wood and stone and includes satellite TV, phone and great views. A restaurant, top-floor bar, casino and fitness centre are also available as well as free wireless internet access. Q190 rooms (114 doubles 60 - 70Ls, 66 triples 101Ls, 4 suites 239Ls, 6 junior suites 95Ls). POHAUFLKDCW 67 76 11 69, info@hotelpegasapils.com, www.hotelpegasapils.com. It doesn’t get much better than this classy hotel housed in an historic, renovated Art Nouveau masterpiece built in 1900. All of the spacious rooms are tastefully decorated with warm colours and comfortable furniture and offer satellite TV, phone, mini-bar, climate control and private balconies. The bedroom of the unique bridal suite is located under a chandelier in the main tower of the building. A spa is at your disposal as well as a conference room with adjoining sauna. Q35 rooms (20 doubles 55 - 67Ls, 7 suites 85 - 166Ls, 8 junior suites 74Ls). PHARFLGKD Sunset Hotel Majori, Pilsoņu 7/9, tel. 67 75 53 11, www.sunsethotel.lv. Sunset’s biggest asset is its friendly staff that goes out of its way to make you comfortable. All rooms are slightly different in size and style but offer the same amenities including tasteful wooden furniture and floors, cable TV, mini-bar, wireless internet access and private bathrooms with massage showers. Private balconies and terraces are also available as well as a room for pet owners and a large apartment for families. Q15 rooms (1 single 30Ls, 8 doubles 45 - 50Ls, 3 triples 75Ls, 1 quad 110Ls, 1 suite 100Ls, 1 apartment 145Ls). HA6FKDCW Riga In Your Pocket Seaside resort city on the wave of health, recreation and harmony! sea and the beach Jurmala - city on the wave! holidays with family Wellness and SPA architecture nature culture aquapark golf Tourism information centre Lienes street 5, Majori, Jūrmala, LV-2011 Phone: +371 7147900, fax: +371 7147901 E-mail: info@jurmala.lv, tourism@jpd.gov.lv www.jurmala.lv Tourism information point Babītes street 1, Priedaine, Jūrmala, LV-2003 Phone: +371 7147900, fax: +371 7147901 E-mail: info@jurmala.lv, tourism@jpd.gov.lv www.jurmala.lv Working hours Working days: 9:00–19:00 Saturday: 10:00–17:00 Sunday: 10:00–15:00 4 JūrMAlA - Food & drink Cafés Bookmark Café Majori, Tirgoņu 29, tel. 29 40 63 48. Located in the modern white building that houses the Jūrmala City Museum, this small café serves all of the usual suspects such as cappuccino, tea and cocktails as well as pastries, soups and hot sandwiches. You don’t need to go out of your way to get here, but if you’re in the area it’s a pleasant pit stop and it also offers magazines, books and wireless internet. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (2 - 4Ls). A Muca Lielupe, Vienības prosp. 25, tel. 29 69 60 80. This funky little bar has a rustic interior of wooden beams and hanging vines that puts one in mind of a ski chalet, but in the Caucasus Mountains, not St. Moritz. The inexpensive grilled meat dishes and laid-back atmosphere are a good antidote to the more upmarket restaurants in the area and you can also smoke a hookahs. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (3 - 6Ls). T Pizza & Pasta Bulduri, Vienības prosp. 6, tel. 67 75 23 Double Coffee Majori, Jomas 65/67, tel. 67 76 31 50, www.doublecoffee.lv. Latvia’s biggest chain of coffee shops has finally opened a cappuccino bar in Jūrmala. You can expect the same wide selection of coffee, food and cocktails that’s available at the other dozen or so locations in Riga as well as the same interior, prices, sullen wait staff, menus and pretty much everything else. Decent, but boring. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 5Ls). A 99, www.pizzapasta.lv. If you’ve got a mind to avoid the crowds on Jomas iela and the high street prices as well, you might consider this cosy, yellow pizzeria situated in a quiet neighbourhood in Bulduri not far from the beach. Enjoy a wide variety of thin crust pizzas and simple pastas and perhaps a mug of Czech Budweiser. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (3 - 6Ls). Planēta Sushi - Il Patio Majori, Jomas 63, tel. 26 42 Ethnic Gan Bei Majori, Jomas 72, tel. 67 74 01 38. It was only a matter of time before this popular chain of Asian-style restaurants opened in Jūrmala. Located on the main drag, Gan Bei offers delicious Chinese dishes as well as sushi and sashimi on a pleasant summer terrace. The loud pop music was not to our taste, but unfortunately that’s to be expected on Jomas iela. Smoking section available outside. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (4 - 8Ls). A 48 00, www.planetasushi.lv. If you’ve got a hankering for sushi and sashimi or maybe pizza and pasta in Jūrmala then look no further than this multitasking restaurant on three floors on Jomas iela. Each floor has its own summer terrace and you can even dine on the rooftop high above the bustling street below. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Slāvu Restorāns Majori, Jomas 57, tel. 67 76 14 01, Habibi Majori, Jomas 75. Owned by a jolly Egyptian man, this small chain of authentic hookah bars has expanded as far as Jūrmala. Located in an historic wooden house on the strip, this Habibi is of a more elegant variety and although it does sport a few Persian carpets here and there it’s not as overwhelmingly Middle Eastern as its other bars in Riga. Smoke a wide variety of exotic tobaccos on two floors or hit the pipe outside on the terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. (5 - 10Ls). www.slavu.lv. Unlike its cousin in Riga, this Slavic restaurant has a much more modern feel, a fantastic location on the main pedestrian street and some of the best al fresco dining in the area. Russian favourites from caviar and simple dumplings to grilled sturgeon and crabs from Kamchatka are all on offer here. Live music after 20:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 12Ls). AE Sue’s Asia Majori, Jomas 74, tel. 67 75 59 00, www. suesasia.lv. After passing the bronze deity at the door, a daunting menu of delicacies awaits. Sip spicy Thai soups, mop up delicious Indian curries with steaming naan and put out the fire in your belly with fried bananas and ice cream. A wide variety of Chinese and Nepalese cuisine are also available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 8Ls). A Kabuki Lounge Majori, Jomas 61, tel. 27 89 71 35. This popular chain of trendy sushi restaurants also has a venue on Jūrmala’s main strip. Unlike its other incarnations this Kabuki boasts an interior of light pinewood walls that actually puts one more in mind of Finnish saunas than Asian design. All of the usual sushi and sashimi is available as well as a decent selection of hot Japanese dishes. DJs attract the cocktail crowd at the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (5 - 10Ls). A Calendar of events Oct 04-05 Stage 7 of open international rally Latvija 200 in Jūrmala, Ķemeri and Dzintari 12 Football: Spartaks v. Tranzīts at 14:00 19 Football: FC Jūrmala v. YFC Olimps at 15:00 25 Football: Spartaks v. Daugava at 14:00 Nov 01 Vox Angelica organ festival. Top 10 Latvian organists at Dubulti Lutheran Church at 17:00 02 Football: FC Jūrmala v. YFC Olimps at 15:00 08 Football: Spartaks v. Kauguri/Multibanka at 14:00 08 Vox Angelica organ festival. Voices of organs and girls at Dubulti Lutheran Church at 17:00 09 Martin’s Day celebrations with the Mare folk ensemble at the Bulduri Culture House at 15:00 09 Vox Angelica organ festival. New stars of the organ at Dubulti Lutheran Church at 17:00 15 Vox Angelica organ festival. Voices of organs and nature at Dubulti Lutheran Church at 17:00 18 Latvian independence day concert at Dubulti Lutheran Church; perfomances and festive fireworks devoted to Latvian independence day at Sloka Stadium All football matches take place at Sloka Stadium. Kazbeks Majori, Jomas 39, tel. 67 76 42 71. Although there’s no reason to go inside during the summer given its excellent terrace on the strip, if you do venture indoors you’ll find a spectacular mural of an Armenian hero on horseback in front of soaring mountains and a cascading stream. All of the usual shashliks (grilled meat) and hearty stews are on offer as well as pastas and salads for the less adventurous diner. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (3 - 7Ls). A Klondaika Tex-Mex Kauguri, Talsu šoseja 31, tel. 67 74 06 88, www.klondaika.lv. This popular chain of restaurants and gaming halls not surprisingly has an outpost in Jūrmala. The atmosphere is kitschy and the Tex-Mex food is just shy of authentic but the servings are huge and good value for money. With the cash you save on your south of the border cuisine you can hit the slots and possibly hit the jackpot. An outdoor grill bar is available in the summer as well as a children’s playground. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (4 - 6Ls). AE Riga In Your Pocket JūrMAlA - Food & drink Cheap & Quick Hesburger Lielupe, Viestura 21, www.hesburger.lv. In the mood for Finnish fast food? This two-storey glass building offers all of the usual Hesburger ‘cuisine’ including big mega-burgers, salmon-burgers, chicken-burgers, salads and kids’ meals for the little ones. If you’re in a hurry, you can also hit the drive-through window. Conveniently located on the Jūrmala side of the bridge in Lielupe near Līvu akvaparks and Rimi. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:30. (2 - 4Ls). AS  Zem Burām Bulduri, Vidus prosp. 38/7, tel. 67 75 51 27. ‘Below the Sails’ is a cosy café and bar serving cheap local Latvian food like pork chops and potatoes and the nation’s best beer, Užavas. You can dine al fresco but there really isn’t much of a view apart from the hustle and bustle of the busy intersection. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (2 - 4Ls). Autumn day at the beach M.Zaprauskis Upmarket Il Sole Majori, Jūras 23/25 (Baltic Beach Hotel), tel. 67 77 14 28. The location just above the beach is sublime and the upmarket fare is excellent, but bear in mind that, unless you plan on filling up on bread, pastas are meant to be appetisers. Each of the delicious Italian dishes listed on its quadrilingual menu is accompanied by a wine suggestion, but if all you crave is a great view and a cold beer, then take a seat on the terrace and order a Czech Kozel or Pilsner. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (5 - 15Ls). AE International Alus krodziņš Majori, Jomas 64a, tel. 67 76 44 56. Although many of the cafés on Jomas at least try to be trendy, this charming yellow house with a beer mug atop its weathervane is unpretentious and thoroughly Latvian. Enjoy inexpensive Latvian beer like Tērvetes, Brenguļu or Latgales on draught and order a pork chop or a shashlik with fries while local oom-pa-pa music plays in the background of its shady summer terrace. A playground is also available for the kids. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (2 - 5Ls). T My Life Bulduri, Meža prosp. 49, tel. 67 75 53 31. In NEW Café 53 Majori, Jomas 53, tel. 67 81 17 71, www. cafe53.lv. With a prime location on the strip, Café 53 will never be short of customers. Choose from a wide selection of local fish dishes and Caucasian cuisine served in ceramic pots, not to mention plenty of meat barbecued on the grill. If you’re looking for something more affordable try one its inexpensive pizzas or just order a tasty Užavas draught. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (4 - 9Ls). A the summer My Life offers an expansive outdoor terrace, but during the cold months you can take your pick of two rooms - one with bright walls and large windows, the other with cosier, warmer autumnal colours. You can order refined cuisine like grilled sturgeon with couscous and pomegranate sauce or new takes on classic Latvian food, but bear in mind that the menu changes with the seasons to ensure only fresh ingredients are used. A professional mixologist pours unique cocktails like basil-mango martinis and a wide selection of exotic whiskies and wines, not on offer elsewhere in Latvia, are also available here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (8 - 15Ls). A MaMa Majori, Tirgoņu 22, tel. 67 76 12 71, www. hotelmama.lv. Unique interior design and an excellent Italian chef are just two reasons to visit MaMa. If you still need convincing here are a few more. You can choose from a wide variety of international cuisine from thin-crust pizzas to lamb and even eel steaks and breakfast and children’s menus are also available. The staff also claim that the kitchen can whip something up for your pet should you have one with you. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (5 - 10Ls). A6 By night Coco Loco Majori, Jomas 37. This self-proclaimed Jamaican bar just off Jomas iela is certainly colourful enough to be Caribbean, but to be honest most of the food on offer is standard international fare with cheesy names like Kingston quesadillas and spicy Rasta gaspacho. A summer terrace is available and DJs spin tunes every night after 22:00 for people who don’t mind spending at least 5Ls for a cocktail. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (4 - 6Ls). A Orients - Jūra Dzintari, Dzintaru prosp. 2, tel. 67 76 14 24, www.restoran-orient.lv. Two floors of nautical kitsch including life preservers, ropes and fake seashell fossils await your perusal across the street from the concert hall. Local fish and seafood as well as a good selection of Caucasian dishes are on offer, but bear in mind that the presentation is of an old-fashioned variety - meat in the middle (covered in dill) surrounded by potatoes (again covered in dill), a pile of cabbage salad, cold canned corn and peas and another cabbage salad. Tasty, but outdated. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (4 - 8Ls). A Kaljana Bārs (Hookah Bar) Majori, Jūras 23/25, tel. 67 77 14 28, www.balticbeach.lv. If you’re looking for something completely different from the usual Jūrmala seaside bars and cafés, you might consider this slice of Arabian nights at the Baltic Beach Hotel. You can smoke a hookah, sip a strong coffee, sample some Turkish sweets or just relax to the rhythms of Middle Eastern music. Belly dancers gyrate and seduce every Friday and Saturday from 23:00. QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. A Orients - Sultāns Majori, Jomas 33, tel. 67 76 20 82, Vienos vārtos Majori, Jomas 61, tel. 67 76 44 40. Just look for its quaint summer terrace on Jomas to find what is in our estimation Jūrmala’s only real sports bar. A collection of football shirts and scarves hang from the ceiling and one wall is completely covered in a mural of rowdy fans in a stadium so you won’t feel lonely. Sporting events are shown on three TVs and best of all Tērvetes, Franziskaner and Staropramen brews are on draught for very reasonable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4 - 7Ls). A www.restoran-orient.lv. The Orient Sultan specialises in Russian, Middle Eastern and Caucasian cuisine. Try the delicious shashliks (grilled meat on a skewer) or the manti which are giant, spicy meat dumplings. Its location on Jūrmala’s most popular street and its summer terrace also make it a decent place for people-watching and a cold drink. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (4 - 8Ls). A October - November 2008  JūrMAlA - sights Sightseeing Dubulti Lutheran Church (Dubultu Luterāņu Baznīca) Baznīcas 13. Like most everything else constructed at the time this beautiful church was built in Art Nouveau style in 1909. Not unlike most Lutheran churches in Latvia, its interior is a bit plain, but its fantastic spire is visible from the surrounding towns and is definitely its most impressive feature. Tourist information Jūrmala Tourist Information Centre Majori, Lienes 5, tel. 67 14 79 00, fax 67 14 79 01, info@ jurmala.lv, www.jurmala.lv. Free maps, hotel reservation, tours, internet access and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Jūrmala City Museum (Jūrmalas pilsētas muzejs) Majori, Tirgoņu 29, tel. 67 76 47 46. This modern building near the train station has all the makings of a fine museum, although they could use some more exhibits. View old postcards from Jūrmala, the largest collection of antique bathing suits in Latvia as well as marine archaeological artefacts. There are also periodic exhibitions of local artists’ works which may be of interest.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.20 - 0.50Ls, Fridays free. Jūrmala Open-air Museum (Jūrmalas brīvdabas muzejs) Lielupe, Tīklu 1a, tel. 67 75 49 09. Located not Ķemeri National Park Although most tourists rarely venture out this far, the wildlife reserve and national park at Ķemeri is one of Latvia’s most impressive natural treasures. It’s home to a wide range of fauna including rare birds like the black stork not to mention moose, deer, elk, foxes, wolves and wild cattle and horses. Nearly 900 varieties of flora can also be observed in the park including certain plants that are found nowhere else in the country. For more information visit www.kemeri.gov.lv. far from where the River Lielupe flows into the Gulf of Riga in the Ragakāpa (Horn Dune) Nature Park, this museum was created to illustrate what life was like for Latvian fishermen in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Old wooden homes, anchors, ropes and fishing nets as well as antique boats are all on display for anyone who doesn’t mind the hike out this secluded spot. Occasionally, visitors can also taste local smoked fish brought in from the neighbouring village. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: 0.20 - 0.50Ls. Rainis and Aspazija Memorial Summer Cottage Majori, J. Pliekšāna 5/7, tel. 67 76 42 95. In 1926 Latvia’s most famous poet and playwright, Rainis, and Aspazija, one of Latvia’s most renowned female writers, bought this house. For some strange reason Rainis preferred to live in the small guest cottage and to rent out the proper house during the summers, although he did occasionally complain that the tenants should turn down the volume on their gramophone. Today you can see where the writers lived and worked and look at some of their personal effects as well as their library which contains over 7,000 books in 11 languages. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission: 0.30 - 0.70Ls. Our apologies... Unfortunately we are unable to publish this map online. Buy a complete printed guide with maps at h t tp://cli ckan dbu y.in yourpocket.com. Riga In Your Pocket JūrMAlA - spAs Spas Jūrmala has a long tradition as a spa resort. Although nobles from Kurzeme made use of its pristine white sandy beaches as early as the 17th century, the first full-fledged spa wouldn’t open until 1838 at the behest of Tsar Nicholas I. Bad Kemmern, now Ķemeri, was the first of many spas to open in the area that now comprises Jūrmala. Soon wealthy city folk from Riga would flock to this narrow spit of land sandwiched between the sea and the River Lielupe. At first they arrived by steamboat, but eventually, in 1877, the railway reached Ķemeri and its popularity soared. Visitors took advantage of mud baths, tried therapeutic mineral and seawater treatments and simply enjoyed the fresh air while taking a stroll along the beach. When swimming finally became fashionable, the sea itself became the impetus for a trip to Jūrmala. The town even allowed men and women to bathe on the same beaches as early as 1881! Spas and wellness centres mushroomed during the First Latvian Republic and during the Soviet era major hotels and rehabilitation centres tempted holidaymakers from all over the USSR to choose Jūrmala as a vacation destination. Today, many of these neglected buildings have been renovated and modernised to accommodate even the most demanding spa-goers. Have a dietician watch your weight, heal your sinuses in a salt room, take a mud bath or simply pamper yourself with a massage - all for a fraction of what it would cost in Western Europe. Amber Sea Hotel Spa Dzintari, Dzintaru prosp. 68, tel. 67 75 12 97, www.amberhotel.lv. Get anything from rejuvenating facials and cosmetic treatments to anti-stress, anti-cellulite and even amber massages. It also offers full body wraps, water treatments and waxing. Q A  Aque - Triumphus Majori, Pilsoņu 8, tel. 67 14 70 98, www.tbpalace.com. So exclusive, you might not get in! Call ahead for an appointment. Q A Baltic Beach Hotel Spa Majori, Jūras iela 23/25, tel. 67 77 14 00, www.balticbeach.lv. Of all of the numerous procedures on offer including underwater massage and mud baths, the ‘honey massage’ sounded the most intriguing. Give it a try! QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A Hotel Jūrmala Spa Majori, Jomas 47/49, tel. 67 78 44 30, www.hoteljurmala.com. The spa has 23 massage rooms, two pools, and five different types of saunas not to mention dozens of special procedure rooms for physical therapy including a room completely covered in salt to soothe the sinuses. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A Hotel Lielupe Spa Bulduri, Bulduru prosp. 64/68, tel. 67 75 27 55, www.lielupe.lv. This huge hotel spa offers a variety of different massages, two swimming pools, saunas, a fitness centre and a tanning salon for reasonable prices. Pegasa Pils Spa Majori, Jūras 60, tel. 67 76 11 49, www.pegasapils.com. One of Jūrmala’s finest hotels also offers an excellent spa only a stone’s throw from the beach. Try a variety of different massages including anti-cellulite, volcanic rock, aromatherapy and even chocolate. Q A Water sports Līvu akvaparks Lielupe, Vienības gatve 36, tel. 67 75 56 40, www.akvaparks.lv. Latvia’s largest indoor aqua park charges almost 15Ls/adult for four hours of fun, but children under six can go for free. A wave pool, children’s pool, saunas, water slides and other attractions are all at your disposal as well as poolside bars and a bistro. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AK Our apologies... Unfortunately we are unable to publish this map online. Buy a complete printed guide with maps at h t tp://cli ckan dbu y.in yourpocket.com. October - November 2008  wAlking tour Old Riga walking tour One could easily stroll about Old Riga’s twisting and turning streets and ancient alleyways for days, but for most travellers time is at a premium and a long journey is a luxury few can afford. With this in mind, we’ve prepared a condensed walking tour which includes many of Old Riga’s most popular sights. Begin at H-3, the Freedom Monument on the edge of Old Riga and H-3, the famous Laima Clock. Proceed down Aspazijas to your right until you reach H-1, the Powder Tower and H-2, the Museum of War next door. Next walk down Torņa. The Jacob’s Barracks on the right side of the street is home to many trendy shops and cafés and remnants of H-2, the Old City Walls are visible on the left side. Walk left through the H-2, Swedish Gate and immediately make a right on Trokšņu, Riga’s narrowest street. Go left then straight between H-1, St. Jacob’s Church and the Saeima (parliament). Make a left on Klostera to find H-1, the Old city walls Three Brothers ahead. Take a peak inside to see how medieval Europeans once lived. Go right on Mazā Pils to Pils laukums where you’ll find H-1, Riga Castle which also houses the History Museum of Latvia. Next walk up Pils to Dome Square and take a tour of I-1, Dome Cathedral, the largest house of worship in the Baltics. After a well-deserved beer or cocktail at one of the bars on the square, walk down Tirgoņu and proceed to Kaļķu. Make another right there and walk to I-2, the House of Blackheads, the new town hall, J-1, the Latvian Riflemen Monument and J-2, the Occupation Museum of Latvia, which is a must see. Next walk down Grēcinieku in the opposite direction of the River Daugava to J-2, the Mentzendorff House. After a short tour of the house continue down Grēcinieku and make a left on Skārņu. You can take a look at I-2, St. John’s Church on the right or walk to the entrance of St. Peter’s on the left and take the lift up to the top of for excellent views. On Skārņu you’ll find dozens of souvenir vendors. Walk into I-2, John’s Courtyard (Jāņa sēta) and emerge on Kalēju. Turn left and continue to Livs’ Square (Līvu laukums) where H-2/I-2, the Great and Small Guildhalls and, H-2, the Cat House are visible at MZ the far end. This concludes your condensed walking tour of Old Riga. You can relax with another brew at one of the restaurants here and take in the atmosphere of Riga’s most popular square. It’s also a good place to buy local souvenirs like amber jewellery, hand-made crafts and paintings. Riga In Your Pocket Our apologies... Unfortunately we are unable to publish this map online. Buy a complete printed guide with maps at h t tp://cli ckan dbu y.in yourpocket.com. Our apologies... Unfortunately we are unable to publish this map online. Buy a complete printed guide with maps at h t tp://cli ckan dbu y.in yourpocket.com. Our apologies... Unfortunately we are unable to publish this map online. Buy a complete printed guide with maps at h t tp://cli ckan dbu y.in yourpocket.com. Our apologies... Unfortunately we are unable to publish this map online. Buy a complete printed guide with maps at h t tp://cli ckan dbu y.in yourpocket.com. index 16. korpuss 42, 51 37 4 Rooms 34 A.l.l. Cappuccino 37, 53 A. Suns 26 ABC 28 Agency Lilija Plus Agency STES Latvia 29 Ainavas Boutique Hotel 16 16 Albert Hotel 34 Ali Baba 42 Alus arsenāls 42 Alus Ordenis 42 Alus Sēta 42 Amber Way Tavern 43 Amelie 44 Amphora 29 Apartment Riga Apartments Brīvības 29 183 43 Apsara 30 Aragats 29 Art-Factory 48 Avalon 18 Avalon Hotel 21 Avitar B&B Krisjanis & 25 Gertrude 25 B&B Riga 52 B-Bārs Backpackers Planet 27 48 Benjamins 48 Bergs Restaurant 21 Best Hotel 32, 37 Bestsellers Best Western Hotel Māra 21 54 Bites Blues Club 32 Bon Vivant 26 Boulnet Hotel Boutique Hotel Bergs 16 Boutique Hotel Viesturs 18 54 Brālis 32 Brown Sugar 22 Bura Hotel 38 C.U.T. 40 Caffè Leonardo 32 Caramel Rouge 42 Čau, Rasma 18 Centra 27 Central Hostel 54 Četri Balti Krekli Champagne & Wine Bar 51 37 Charlestons Charlestons Cappuccino 32, 34 Bar 32, 33, 44 Čili Pica Citi laiki 42 27 City Hostel City Hotel Bruņinieks 22 37, 54 City Jazz Club 28 City Lounge CL - Coffee & Lunch 32 51 Club Essential 34 Coffee Art 34 Coffee Nation 48 Columbine Conference Hotel Tomo 22 51 Coyote Fly 52 Cuba Café 51 D'vine 31 dADa 40 Da Sergio 38 Dejavu 52 Depo 47 Dņipro 22 Dodo Hotel 29 Dolce Vita 55 Dolls 18 Domina Inn Riga Double Coffee 32, 34, 44 42 Dzirnavas 22 Elefant Hotel 18 Elizabete Hotel 46 El Primero Emihla Gustava 32 Shokolahde 30 Erevāna 38 Esplanāde 23 Europa City Hotel Europa Club Casino 50 Europa Royale Riga 16 48 Fabrikas restorāns 34 Fazer Café 38 Fīlings 41 Food Box 23 Forums 32 Franču Maiznīca 50 Free Hawks Club 31, 33 Gan Bei Garden Palace Hotel 19 46 Gastronome 50 Gauja 43 Goija 53 Golden 48 Gourmand Grand Palace Hotel 16 38 Gutenbergs 30 Habibi 49 Hanoja 19 Hanza Hotel 38 Hanza Pub 36 Hesburger 25 Homestay 35 Honkonga Hospitālis 38 16 Hotel de Rome 23 Hotel Enkurs 23 Hotel Felicia 19 Hotel Gutenbergs 23 Hotel Irina 26 Hotel Jūrnieks 19 Hotel Rīga 23 Hotel Valdemārs 23 Hotel Viktorija 32 I love you 40 Il Patio 32, 34 Index Café 36 Indian Raja Indian Tikka House 36 19 Islande 33 Istaba 26 Jakob Lenz 50 Jameson Bar 55 Jockey Club 33 John Lemon 38 K|I|D 52 Kabata 41 Kabuki 49 Kamāla Kapteiņa Enriko 54 pulkstenis 23 Karavella 26 KB B&B 41 Kebabs Fix 24 Ķeizarmežs 24 Kert 38 Ķiploku Krogs 47, 52 Klondaika 28 Knights Court 34 Kokanda 24 Kolonna Hotel Riga 20 Konventa Sēta 46 Krievu Sēta 50 La Belle Époque 38 La Boheme 44 Lāčplēsis 24 Laine 44 Lauvas Nams 50 Leningrad 33, 44 LIDO LIDO atpūtas centrs 42 38, 53 Lidojošā Varde 43 LIDO Spice 35 Lielais Ķīnas Mūris 26 Liene 26 Livonija 50 Lobby Bar 55 Lord Pub 52 Lounge 8 Macaroni Noodle Bar 39 52 Mad House 20 Man-Tess Mārtiņa beķereja 32, 36 McDonald's 36 44, 52 Melnais Kaķis 39 Melnie Mūki 20 Metropole 27 Mežaparks 50 Mi6 Spy Bar Monika Centrum Hotel 20 24 Monte Kristo 40 Monterosso 31 Mūķene 26 Multilux 20 Nams 99 52 Nautilus 52 NB 24 NB Hotel 41 Nobu 46 Nostalģija 35 Olé Olympic Voodoo Casino 50 39 Opium Café 50 Orange Bar 32, 33 Osīriss 49 Otto Schwarz 46 Pablo Tapas Bar Paddy Whelan's 40, 55 Paldies Dievam piektdiena ir klāt 47, 52 40, 44 Paparazzi 44 Pastarellia 35 Pelmeņi XL 50 Pieci Vilki Pie Kristapa Kunga 44 39 Piligrims 49 Piramīda 33, 44 Pizza Lulū 28 Profitcamp 36 Provansa Pulkvedim Neviens 52 Neraksta 52 Radio Bar Radisson SAS Daugava 21 25 Radi un Draugi 39 Raibais Balodis 49 Rāma Ramada Riga City Centre 27 Hotel 55 Red Fred Reval Hotel Elizabete 21 21 Reval Hotel Latvija Reval Hotel Rīdzene 16 39 Reykjavik 34 Riga Black Magic 28 Riga Hostel Riga Old Town Hostel 28 54 Riga Out There 50 Rīgas Balzams 29 Riga Style Rigensis 32 40 Rosso Rubino Royal Square Hotel & 16 Suites 44 Rozengrāls 55 Runcis 40 Saint Germain 40 Salt 'n' Pepper 43 Salve 41 Samurajs 52 Sarkans 46 Šašliki Mangaļos 52 Scandal Šefpavārs Vilhelms 35 35 Shangri-La 53 Shot Café 29 Sirta 27 Skanste 53 Skyline Bar 46 Slāvu Restorāns 31 Soho 41 Soraksans Southern Fried Chicken 36 43 Staburags 53 Star Lounge 55 Stars Steak House Dome 46 46 Steiku Haoss 47 Sue's Asia 33 Sushi Point 33 Sushi Tokyo 36 Sveiks, Šveik! 49 Symposium 30 T.G.I.Friday's 50 Teātra bārs 47 Tequila Boom 47 Tequila Boom II 36 Thali The Mongolian Barbecue 31 25 TIA 46 Tikai karotes 40 Tiramisu Tobago Casino Club 50 46 Traktieris Trattoria del Popolo 40 34 V. Ķuze 33, 44 Vairāk Saules 40 Vanille Café 34 Varzoba 35 Vecmeita ar kaķi 25 Vecrīga 40 Velvets 43 Vērmanītis 36 Victory Pub 51 Vīna Studija 49 Vincents 31 Wok Café 3 Old Riga street register Aklā H-1 Akmens tilts J-1 Alberta laukums J-3 Aldaru H-2 Alksnāja J-2 Alunāna F-2/3 Amatu I-2 Anglikāņu H-3/1 Arsenāla H-1 Aspazijas bulv. H/I/J-3 Atgriežu H-1/2 Audēju J-2/I-3 Barona I-3 Basteja bv. G-1/H-2 Bīskapa gāte I-1 Brīvības H-3 Citadeles F/G-1 Doma lauk. H/I-1 Elizabetes F-3 Freedom Mon. H-3 Gleznotāju I-2/3 Grēcinieku J-1/2 Herdera lauk. I-1 Inženieru H-3 Jāņa I-2/3 Jāņa sēta I-2 Jaunavu I-2 Jauniela I-1 Jēkaba G/H-1 Jēkaba lauk. G/H-1 Jeruzalemes F-3 Kalēju J/I-2 Kaļķu J-1/I-2 Kalpaka bv. G-3/F-2 Ķēniņu H-2 Klostera H-1 Konventa Sēta I-2 Krāmu I-1 Kronvalda bv. F/G-1 Kungu I-2 Laima clock H-3 Laipu I-2 Maisa I-1 Mārstaļu J-2 Mazā Miesnieku H-1 Mazā Monētu I-2 Mazā Muzeja I-1 Mazā Pils H-1 Mazā Smilšu H-2 Mazā Trokšņu H-1/2 Meistaru H/I-2 Merķeļa H-3 Miesnieku I-1 Miķeļa F-1 Minsterejas J-2 Monētu I-2 Mucenieku I-3 Muitas G-1 Mūku I-1 Muzeja I-1 Palasta I-1 Pasta J-2 Peitavas J-2/3 Peldu J-2 Pēterbaznīcas I-2 Pils H-1 Pils laukums H-1 Prāgas D-4/J-3 Pumpura F-2/3 Radio I-3 Raiņa bulv. G-2/3 Rātslaukums I-2 Reimersa G-3 Rīdzenes I/J-3 Rozena I-1 Skārņu I-2 Šķūņu I-2 Smilšu H-1/2 Strēlnieku lauk. J-1/2 Teātra I-3 Tirgoņu I-2 Torņa H-1/2 Trokšņu H-1/2 Ūdensvada J-1/2 Vāgnera I-2/3 Valdemāra G-1/F-3 Vaļņu H-2/J-3 Vecpilsētas J-3 Vingrotāju F/G-2 Zirgu H/I-2 11. novembra krastmala I-1/J-2 13. janvāra J-3 Info Centre I-2 Bus Station J-3 October - November 2008 ©SAD 2008 FSBK02-2 Scandlines The bridge to Germany, Sweden or Denmark You like driving, but want to arrive quickly and relaxed? One of the most pleasant ways of getting to Germany, Sweden or Denmark is on one of our ferries. Enjoy the fresh sea air and arrive at your destination completely relaxed. Scandlines offers two routes via the Latvian port of Ventspils to Germany and Sweden. You choose your itinerary. Welcome on board! Ventspils-Rostock, Ventspils-Nynäshamn D ROSTOCK S NYNÄSHAMN LV VENTSPILS 180 km to Riga Scandlines Booking Center, N. Sodo 1 · LT - 92118 Klaipeda · Telephone / fax: + 371 6 77 96 900