Parlez-vous cholesterol? Expat Bernard Larane's French bakery brings kilos of buttery pastries to Old Riga, including the closest thing to a Parisian pain au chocolat this side of the Baltic. Fresh bread, homemade pāté, quiches, strong coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice also make this boulangerie a favourite retreat.

Also on C-5, Barona 52 (entrance from Ģertrūdes). Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00; C-5, Ģertrūdes 30, tel. (+371) 67 87 62 65. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.