Housed inside several gorgeous brick vaults inside a classic, 17th-century Old Town building, Senieji Rūsiai (Old Cellars) is a much needed breath of fresh air in a city of so much low budget banality. Well mannered staff ferry salmon in brandy, pepper steak, duck, rabbit and other fancy dishes with the utmost decorum to an altogether better class of locals and foreigners alike, the perfect antidote to a day spent running the gauntlet of the city’s beleaguered museum staff. Their excellent choice of desserts are best finished off with a spine-tingling espresso and an expensive cigar from the in-house humidor.

35Lt.