Found inside a converted school in a grey sleeping district in the south of the city, the Black Wolf wavers between genius and disaster depending on the mood of the staff and whether anybody turns up to eat. Popular with families thanks to a rather charming outdoor section, the food is no award winner, but it’s worth a try on a balmy Sunday lunchtime for an authentic taste of what the locals get up to in their spare time. Don’t expect much English spoken, if any at all.

18Lt.