A cracking Russian restaurant, that, with the exception of a couple of samovars and the costumes they drape the staff in, doesn't take its Russian pedigree too seriously. Historically speaking, the menu here is a treasure, being supposedly derived from the notes of the infamous Russian prime minister-gourmet Pyotr Stolypin. Try the soup served in a loaf of bread, a classic Russian favourite that's more than a meal in itself.

20Lt.