Overlooked entirely, even by the local tourist information people, this extraordinary collection of 19th- and early 20th-century graves in the tiny hamlet of Anaičiai is truly remarkable and should be visited by anyone with even a passing interest in philology. Although now part of Palanga, which was at the time within the Russian Empire, Anaičiai was originally on the Prussian side of the border, as the mind-boggling writing on some of the graves shows clearly enough. Among the more customary renditions of the German and Lithuanian inscriptions on the graves are a few that reflect not only the region’s mixed ethnic heritage but that also illustrate how the Lithuanian language was in effect cleansed at the start of the 20th century. The pictured gravestone is a classic example, featuring elements of the German, Lithuanian and Curonian languages with the addition of Polish spelling that predates the introduction of the modern Lithuanian alphabet. A few kilometres south of Palanga just past the small settlement of Nemirseta, there are no signposts to aid finding the place, making getting hold of a Briedis Palanga ir Šventoji map, available from any decent bookshop for less than 10Lt, essential if you don’t want to spend the day driving around in circles. The cemetery is on the left at the end of the first collection of buildings on the right-hand side of the dirt track.