Glitzy curtains and a few Chinese bits and bobs thrown about the place create an atmosphere redolent of the sort of eating house you’d find on the outskirts of Beijing. Chinese people who can cook working in the kitchen also ensure that even without the full collection of ingredients the meals on offer are at least vaguely Chinese. The bamboo and mushroom soup was particularly good, although the recommended beef dish lacked the classic oomph required to make it truly outstanding. The menu is extensive, and even includes frogs’ legs, a couple of which, if transplanted onto the waitress, would speed things up here no end.

35Lt.