The doctor, linguist, translator and Lithuanian political figure Jurgis Šlapelis (1876-1941) and his opera-singing, bookshop-owning wife Marija (1880-1977) were both prominent figures in the Lithuanian national revival movement during the late-19th and early-20th century. Particularly involved in the preservation and standardisation of the Lithuanian language, the couples’ life and that of life in the region from the second half of the 19th century until 1940 have been commemorated with this strange little museum located inside an eerily preserved house they bought together in 1926. Among the many items on display, including some fine photographs of Jurgis sporting a rather splendid moustache, are a few classics for those interested in philology. Of particular interest are the 19th-century books illustrating the development of the Lithuanian alphabet, from the use of Polish letter combinations through some now obsolete diacritics to the letters used today. In Lithuanian only, somebody should be available to help translate, although telephoning in advance is recommended. Bizarre and strangely compelling.