The Roma town of Suto Orizari, or Sutka for short, is five kilometres north of Skopje and makes for a great, eye-opening excursion. The town of perhaps 50,000 people (much more in summer when those working abroad come home) was founded after the 1963 earthquake between Skopje’s prison and the cemetery, and became an independent municipality in 1996. It’s the only town in Europe with a Roma mayor and with Roma as an official language. Sutka’s streets are the closest you’ll come to India in Europe, full of life, friendly curious locals, playing children, colourful clothes, boys tinkering with bicycles, and plenty of rubbish. Some of the small houses lining the paved main streets are proud small palaces, with ornate balconies and decorations. But Sutka is also Macedonia’s poorest town, and many people also live in simple shacks made of wood and metal. Sutka’s main attraction for residents of Skopje is the daily flea market, held in the centre of town every morning, where all manner of authentic and pirated goods are sold, including fashion and mobile phones. A good souvenir is a CD with Roma music. Go local and ask for anything by Esma (see more and download some fabulous MP3s on her website at www.esma.com.mk), a Sutka resident who now is one of the most famous Roma singers in Europe. Walking around Sutka is perfectly safe, but it’s a good idea to use one of the guarded car parks (turn right up any street near the market), to keep your valuables hidden while walking around and to ask before taking pictures of people. You can easily reach Sutka by bus N°19 from the main post office or bus N°20 from the train station and old bazaar.
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