A short 20km drive or train ride south from Podgorica, Lake Skadar (Skadarsko jezero) is named after the Albanian city of Shkodra (Skadar to Montenegrins) on the opposite shore, and makes for a great daytrip. About 60% of the lake is Montenegrin territory, and although the northern and eastern shores are marshy reed beds, there are beaches and islands on the southwestern side and it's easy to go on a boat trip for bird-watching and relaxation.

Lake Skadar is in fact a former sea bay that was cut off from the Adriatic when the sea levels dropped, thousands of years ago. The lake is the largest in the Balkans at 41km long and between 370-530 square kilometres, and the lake surface varies between 5 and 10 metres above sea level depending on the season (it's lowest in winter). It's up to 60 metres deep, meaning the bottom of the lake is well below sea level, making it a so-called cryptodepression.

The Moraca river that runs through Podgorica is the main source of water for the lake, flushing the whole lake through about 3 times per year. This river is the main source of pollution too, mainly from Podgorica's rubbish tip and the filthy KAP aluminium smelter nearby. The river Buna (Bojana to Montenegrins) near Shkodra is the lake’s only outlet, flowing 40km to the Adriatic sea. Curiously, the low level of the lake in winter causes the upper section of the Buna river (fed by the river Drini just below Shkodra) to reverse direction.

Plavnica
The most upmarket lake experience can be had close to Podgorica at the Plavnica resort (tel. +382 20 44 37 00, www.plavnica.info), a large new development set along a cannel some 300 metres from the lakeside, with a restaurant, apartments a wonderful pool (€10 gets you towels and a lounger) with regular parties in summer. Their 40-metre panoramic tour boat sets sail on summer weekends from 18:00 to 23:00, with food, drinks and dancing on board (€22 all-in, €10 without food). Plavnica also rents out canoes (€3/hr), paddleboats (€5/hr), 120hp speedboats (€120/hr).

Visitor centre
About 10% of the Montenegrin side of the lake is a national park, with some 240 bird species inhabiting its shores, including some of Europe's last pelicans. Below the surface are 64 types of fish, and on land you'll find reptiles, wild boar, rabbits, foxes and even the occasional wolf. Be sure to visit the Lake Skadar visitor centre, 28 kilometres from Podgorica, halfway along the Virpazar causeway and above the Jezero restaurant (tel. +382 20 65 80 71/+382 69 65 02 05, open 09:00-18:00, admission €3). A great initiative to make Lake Skadar more accessible to visitors, this visitor centre has an exhibition about the national park its geology, plant and animal life (see the stuffed pelican) and ethnology. Boat trips run by Laketours (tel. +382 20 20 28 00, +382 69 32 94 04, www.kingsmn.com) depart daily from beside the visitor centre, varying from one-hour trips (€11, depart whenever there are 6 passengers) to full day tours (€300 per boat).

Virpazar
Six kilometres further down the Bar road, Virpazar is a small, pleasant village on a round island in the mouth of a river, linked to the causeway road and a railway station by an old stone bridge. This is the centre for boat trips on the lake, with several operators doing hour-long trips at €10 per person. There's a tourism office here (open 08:00-21:00 in summer, tel. +382 30 31 16 33, www.tobar.me) and various places to stay and eat. The Badanj tavern (tel. +382 69 50 80 19) is a village konoba serving fresh fish dishes on a nice terrace; Hotel Pelikan is a basic place to stay and has a rustic restaurant (tel. +382 20 71 11 07, www.pelikan-zec.cg.yu).

The south coast
With own transport, you can wiggle through Virpazar onto the narrow road that dips and curves high along the southern lakeshore. As it's badly signposted, this is a great adventure and you may end up at small farmhouses or deserted coves. The lake water is a very pleasant 27°C in summer, so it's great for swimming. Sooner or later you'll find the Muslim village of Murići, where there's a gravel beach and the Izletiste Murići restaurant (+382 69 68 82 88, ww.skadarskojezero-izletistemurici.com) that serves great fresh fish – try the small ukljeva fried fish – and has some cabins for rent (€25 per night).

Tour de Lake
It's possible to cycle or drive around the lake, a tour of 177km, though the best views are really to be had from the southwestern Montenegrin shores, for which you don't need to enter Albania. EU visitors don't need visas for Albania, though check if you can take your rental car across the border. Crossing at Murican near Ulcinj it's a few kilometres over good asphalt and a wooden bridge to Shkodra, which has charm and a huge castle, and is well worth a few hours; see www.shkodra.inyourpocket.com for more information. The road back north to the Han i Hotit border crossing is winding and bumpy with no views of the lake.