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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps NOVI SAD July - September 2008 EXIT Music Festival Dining & Nightlife N°1 www.inyourpocket.com Slow food movement EXIT Photo Team Contents 3 E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Contents Arriving in Novi Sad In praise of laid-back life 6 7 9 11 The Basics History Culture & Events EXIT Festival EXIT Map of Petrovaradin Fortress Salaš 137 Where to stay Sweet Dreams 21 24 27 Restaurants Slow food movement Photo Bojan Hohnjec Cafés Making New Friends 31 32 34 39 41 43 Nightlife Tamburitsa, Wine & Clubing What to see Petrovaradin Fortress Mail & Phones Getting around Heaven on Earth for cyclist Lifestyle Directory Gifts & Souvenirs Maps&Index City centre map Country map Index & Street register 46 48 49 July - September 2008 4 Foreword In Your Pocket is very pleased to present to you Novi Sad, capital of Serbian province Vojvodina, and the second biggest town in Serbia, famous for EXIT festival and one of the largest fortresses in Europe. In Novi Sad, everything is close at hand, the pace of life is laid- back, the food is rich and delicious, and the girls are famed for their beauty. The town lies on the Danube River, and owes its name to an age-old custom obliging the bride and bridegroom to plant a grapevine before their marriage (Novi Sad - new plantation). The area surrounding Novi Sad is great for picnics and outings: just outside the town, there is Fruška Gora National Park with 16 monasteries, a small town of Sremski Karlovci with its museum of honey and wine cellars, and keen supporters of ‘slow food’ movement will find heaven on earth in many traditional farmsteads (salaši) and the restaurants on the Danube, the latter offering fish specialties and gypsy music. Welcome to Novi Sad! Europe In Your Pocket Cover story EXIT festival takes place in Novi Sad every July. The party lasts four days, attracting star performers and tens of thousands of festivalgoers, still dancing well after sunrise. EXIT was started in 2000, by university students from Novi Sad, in the midst of political and economic turmoil in Serbia, and in a bid to rouse young people in Novi Sad against the incumbent repressive political regime. Held in historic Petrovaradin Fortress since 2001, the festival grew in stature and gained international recognition. Last year EXIT won the UK Festival Award: Best Festival on the Continent. www.inyourpocket.com Like dominoes the capitals of the Balkans are falling in the wake of In Your Pocket’s onward march. After Athens - launched in April - Belgrade, Ljubljana and Novi Sad have been quick to surrender, and new guides to Sarajevo and Mostar are in the works. Add in new editions of the Tirana, Skopje, Pristina and Podgorica guides, and you have a full set. Elsewhere around the Pocket Empire there are new annual guides in Parnu and Tartu (Estonia), Kaunas and Klaipeda (Lithuania), while Poland’s top mountain resort Zakopane now has its own mini-guide. Look out for lots more new In Your Pocket mini-guides in a number of European cities this summer. E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Novi Sad In Your Pocket Jaše Prodanovića 10 11000 Belgrade, Serbia tel. (+38111)20 84 708 fax (+38111)20 84 719 digital.creat@sezampro.yu www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1820 - 7693 ©Bg Info Box Printed by Kolor Pres Published 4 times per year 25,000 copies Editorial Editor Nemanja Tasić Editorial Contributors Vojislava Katić, Milan Kosanović Design Boba Jovanović Layout Nebojša Ćosić Research Biljana Nedeljković Photos Nemanja Tasić, TIC Gallery, EXIT Photo Team, Ivan Ivanović, Bojan Hohnjec, Aleksandar Plackov, Maps Intersistem kartografija, BG Info Box, E-5 Saobraćajni marketing Sales & Circulation General Manager Saša Marjanović Sales & Circulation BG Info Box Cover photo EXIT Photo Team Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Novi Sad In Your Pocket. Maps copyright Bg Info Box. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Novi Sad In Your Pocket 6 arriving in novi sad By plane The nearest airport is in Belgrade - Nikola Tesla Airport, about 70km away from Novi Sad. The arrivals hall houses car rentals, an exchange office open 24hrs, several ATMs, and there is a currency exchange machine available in Terminal 1. There is no difference in currency exchange rates at the airport and in the city. Jat Airways lost luggage is handled by Su-Port service, tel. 267 63 74, and the lost luggage of other air carriers by Lost & Found airport service, tel. 209 48 54, which will deliver the found luggage to any address in the city. You can call home from a Halo telephone booth, using Halo magnetic cards, available at news stands at the airport. Terminal 2 departure hall features a post office and an internet café, open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. From the airport, you can reach Novi Sad in two ways: getting to Belgrade first and then getting a coach to Novi Sad, (time consuming) or hiring one of Novi Sad taxi operators, whose services you must book beforehand (quick and simple). To get to Belgrade, you can take a Jat Airways shuttle (160 dinars), whose departures coincide with arrivals of that airline, or a public transport bus (the fare bought on board is 60 din) or you can take a taxi. Ignore the pushy taxi drivers accosting travellers at arrivals hall, because they will rip you off. The best advice would be to call a taxi (ask someone to do it for you) and your taxi will arrive in front of the terminal building in a few minutes. The ride to the Old Town takes about 20 min, and the price should not exceed 15 EUR (except on weekends and public holidays). The number of passengers or luggage should not affect the price of the ride. Some of taxi companies: Lux taxi, tel. (+38111) 303 31 23, Beotaxi, tel. (+38111) 970, Beogradski taxi, tel. (+38111) 9801. Taxi transfer from Nikola Tesla Airport to Novi Sad: Genelex, tel. (+38121)472 24 92. Van service. Seats 8. Advance booking. Price 75€/per van, regardless of number of passengers. Heligon, tel. (+38164)232 08 16, (+38121)633 97 71. Car service. Ride takes one hour. Advance booking. Price 30€/ per car, regardless of number of passengers. Pan taxi, tel. (+38163)55 55 30, (+38164)215 55 55. Car service. Ride takes one hour. Advance booking. Price 45€/ per car, regardless of number of passengers. If you use low-budget air carriers (such as Easy Jet, Wiz Air, Air Berlin, Sky Europe…) you can fly in to Budapest (capital of neighbouring Hungary, 380km away), and take a taxi, train or coach to Novi Sad. Taxi transfer from Budapest to Novi Sad: Genelex, tel. (+38121)472 24 92. Van service. Seats 8. Advance booking. Price 280€/per van, regardless of number of passengers. Heligon taxi, tel. (+38164)232 08 16, (+38121)633 97 71. Car service. Advance booking. Price 110€/per car, regardless of number of passengers. Pan taxi, tel. (+38163)55 55 30, (+38164)215 55 55. Car service. Advance booking. Price 150€/per car, regardless of number of passengers. Street smarts street - ulica alley - sokak square - trg boulevard - bulevar highway - autoput road - put quay - kej bridge - most By train Novi Sad is one of the stops on international ViennaBudapest-Belgrade-Istanbul route. The Budapest-Novi Sad leg is about 5 hours long. The Railway Station, located not very far from the town centre, offers exchange offices, ATMs, telephone booths. Avoid the taxi sharks waiting on the semicircular driveway in front of the station building and if you want a taxi hail one a little down the street, or go to the taxi rank located on the parking to the left of the driveway. In front of the station building, you will easily find bus stops. Bus line Nº4 will take you to the centre of the town. The Railway Station is located at the beginning of Bulevar Oslobođenja B-2, traversing the entire town, so it should be fairly easy to get around with a little help of the map.. Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 By bus Novi Sad has two bus stations for international travel: the old one – the Central Bus Station located right next to the Railway Station at the beginning of Bulevar Oslobođenja B-2, (take bus Nº4 to get to the centre of the town) and the new one - ATP Vojvodina Bus Station at the corner of Sentandrejski put and Put novosadskog partizanskog odreda Streets (a little further away, bus Nº1 runs to the centre of the town). Where you will end up depends on your bus operator. Novi Sad is well served by a nationwide network of bus routes, and there are bus departures to Belgrade every half hour or less until midnight, so you can use all the international routes linking Belgrade to major cities in Europe. By boat By car E-75 motorway runs close to Novi Sad, and E-70 motorway is 70km further down towards Belgrade. Foreign drivers in Serbia need international driving license, vehicle registration certificate, and insurance policy. The valid insurance policies are issued by countries signatories to ‘Vehicle Insurance Convention’, and citizens of other countries are required on entering Serbia to buy an insurance policy. Speed limit in the city is set at 60 km/h unless otherwise indicated by speed signs. Permitted Blood Alcohol Level is 0.5 g/l. Sailing the Danube is the most scenic route to Novi Sad. Commercial boats dock at the pier near Varadinski Bridge near the centre of the town. Piers for private yachts and boats: 1,255km - Harbour Captain’s office, tel. (+38121)52 65 84, 52 84 57 1,263.5km - Market Tours Information Centre for Nautical Tourism, Kamenjar, tel. (+38121)46 84 09 1,257.8km - Liman Marina C-3, Sunčani kej bb, tel. (+38161)170 70 51 Tourist information Tourist Information Centre - TIC Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 9 C-2, tel. 42 18 11, 45 14 81. e-mail: ticns@nadlanu.com, www.novisadtourism.com 4Open 08:30-19:00, Sat 08:30-13:30, Closed Sun. Novi Sad In Your Pocket BasiCs Population Serbia (2002, without Kosovo and Metohija province) 7,498,001, Novi Sad (2002) 298,139. Ethnic composition (2002, without Kosovo and Metohija province): Serbs 82,86%, Hungarians 3,91%, Bosniacks 1,82%, Roma 1,44%, others 9,97%. The official language is Serbian, with Cyrillic being the official script, but the Latin script is equally used. Hungarian, Slovakian and Ruthenian languages and their scripts are also in official use in Novi Sad. 7 National holidays 1-2 January - New Year’s Days 7 January - Christmas (Orthodox) 15 February - Statehood Day in Serbia 1 May - Labour Day 9 May - Victory Day (commemorative day) 25-27 April - Easter (Orthodox, from Big Friday to second day of Easter) Serbia is in the Central European Time Zone: GMT + 1 hours (in winter), GMT + 2 during daylight saving. When it is noon in Novi Sad it is: 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 21:00 in Sydney and 14:00 in Moscow. Local time Money Photo Ivan Ivanović Religion Orthodox Christianity is the major religion. Serbian Orthodox Church became autonomous in 1219. Other important religious communities are Muslim, Catholic and Jewish, and Methodist Evangelical and Reformed communities also have a fair number of followers. The Serbian currency is the dinar (RSD). The first mention of a ‘Serbian dinar’ dates back to 1214. Each dinar is divided into 100 paras, no longer in use, thus prices at shops are rounded off. Coins come in the following denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 dinars. The banknotes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1.000 and 5.000 dinars. National currency is pegged to Euro. You can change money in a bank or any of the exchange offices dotting the town (they are marked with the logo of the National Bank of Serbia). The differences in exchange rates are negligible. Most banks in Novi Sad will change travellers cheques, American Express, Thomas Cook, VISA and Eurocheques. Western Union money transfers from abroad can be collected from the post office and most banks. You can buy almost all goods and services with bank cards, and you need cash only for green markets, kiosks, and paying the parking. Throughout the town, there is a large number of ATMs where you can collect money 24h. Cards widely acceptable in Novi Sad are VISA, VISA Electron, MasterCard, Eurocard, Maestro, Diners Club and local DinaCard. American Express has recently been introduced to Serbian market, and a rather limited number of shops and ATMs will accept it. Geography Smoking Serbia covers an area of 88,361km2. It has land borders with Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, FYR Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. The highest peak is Midžor (2169m) on Old Mountain (Stara planina). The Danube flows 588km through Serbia, the Sava River 206km, and the Drina River forms most of the border to the West (220km). Another important Serbian river is Great Morava (185km), created by the confluence of Western Morava (308km) and Southern Morava (295km). Novi Sad lies on the Danube River In Novi Sad, coffee and cigarettes are generally considered a perfect way to start the day, so it is small wonder that smoking is allowed in all restaurants and cafés. The problem here is how to find a place with a non-smoking area. Smoking is outlawed only in public premises (banks, post offices, hospitals, etc). Health  The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21 Tap water is safe to drink. The estimated number of AIDS cases is low. Doctors and medical staff in state-run hospitals are professional and reliable, and you need not worry about their skills if you should get ill. The worrisome part are poor maintenance of state run hospitals, which is a consequence of insufficient funds, and the red tape involved in hospital admission. If you have a minor health problem, you are well advised to visit a private practice so as to avoid an agonizing wait. July - September 2008 8 BasiCs Local laws & Police You will be required to declare money (including travellers’ cheques) in excess of €10,000 (or equivalent in other currencies) that you bring into Serbia. Prostitution and use of drugs are illegal, so try and stay out of trouble, and anyway, being a foreigner, you may not be able to spot out plainclothes police officers. Police in full riot gear are a regular sight at football matches, and that should not alarm you. Market values Exchange rates (on June 30, 2008.): US$1 = 49.86, €1 = 78.74, UK£1 = 99.4 McDonald’s Big Mac 180din. 1kg of beef 480din. 10 eggs 100din. Loaf of white bread 38din. Snickers bar 40din. Bottle of local beer (1/2 litre) 32din. 20 Marlboros 120din. Public transport ticket 30din. €2.30 €6.10 €1.30 €0.50 €0.50 €0.40 €1.50 €0.40 Homosexuality A public display of homosexual affection is unacceptable in Serbia. Declared homosexuals are tolerated as long as they don’t show their affections in the street, which could provoke an aggressive reaction from an onlooker. There are no gay clubs in Novi Sad, so they go to ‘straight’ clubs. There are gay/lesbian associations, for more info visit www. gay-serbia.com Disabled travellers Most hotels, restaurants and cafés are inaccessible to disabled patrons and hardly any offers toilet facilities for the disabled. Visas If you are a citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, USA, Israel, Japan, Russia, Canada, Argentina, Australia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Cuba, Republic of Korea, you can enter Serbia without a visa and may stay in the country for 90 days. Citizens of other countries must obtain a visa from a Serbian consulate before travelling. Within 12 hours of your arrival in Serbia, you are required to register with the nearest police station. If you are staying in a hotel or hostel, they will automatically do that for you. Failure to register carries a massive fine. For all the details on how to extend your stay or procure a working permit, contact the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Directorate of Consular Affairs in Belgrade, Kneza Miloša 24-26, tel. 306 82 68 or Novi Sad Town Police (Department for Foreigners) BBB, Bulevar kralja Petra I 11, tel. 488 40 00. Toilets Public toilets in Novi Sad are hard to find. The existing ones are fairly decent and can be found next to the Town Hall on Kralja Aleksandra Street, in Dunavski Park, at Sports and Business Centre Vojvodina on Sutjeska Street C-2 and at bus and train stations, open 06:00-20:00. If the need to go comes on whilst you are strolling round the town, you can use the toilet in the nearby café or restaurant. Safety Novi Sad is a fairly safe place. There is not a single part of the town where a girl should not walk on her own in the middle of the night. You may come across stray dogs, but they are generally minding their own business and not giving anyone a trouble. Guided tours Novi Sad Autoturist C-2, Mite Ružića 2, tel. 52 38 63 Donna Vista C-2, Dunavska 6, tel. 42 61 26 Elnostours C-2, Maksima Gorkog 10, tel. 52 82 44 Market tours B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 55, tel. 636 76 12 Magelan corporation C-2, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 472 40 88 Climate Temperature (celsius) Rainfall (mm) 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Avg Sep Okt Nov Dec rain temperature www.inyourpocket.com Novi Sad In Your Pocket history 4500 BC First settlement established in the area of the present Petrovaradin Fortress. 3000 BC First wooden fortifications erected around the settlement. 6th century Slavic tribes colonise the Balkans. Slavs embrace Christianity in 9th century. 1247 Hungary builds a fortress at the site of the present Petrovaradin Fortress. 1526 Fortress occupied by Ottoman Turkey. 1687 Fortress occupied by Austrians. 1692 Petrovaradin Fortress construction begins. On the opposite bank of the Danube river, at the location of the present Novi Sad, a settlement springs up, composed of Serbs, Jews, Greece and Germans, as non-Catholics were banned from residing within the limits of the Fortress’ Lower Town. The settlement was initially called Raitzenstadt (Serb Town) and Petrovaradinski šanac (Petrovaradin Ditch). 1703 The first Serbian National School opens in Novi Sad. 1748 Affluent Serbs start raising money and buy for Novi Sad the status of the free royal city from Maria Theresia, Queen of Hungary and other territories. Maria Theresia renames the town as Neoplanta (Latin), Uj-Videgh (Hungarian), Novi Sad (Serbian). 1820 Novi Sad has a population of 20,000. It is a cultural and political centre of Serbs, who do not have their own national state at the time. Poets hail it as the Athens of Serbia. Almost every Serbian novelist, poet, jurist and publicist of note at the end of 19th century and at the beginning of 20th century live or work in Novi Sad some time of their career. 1848 Hungarians demand national rights and autonomy within the Austrian Empire. Confronted with new Hungarian authorities and wishing to express their own national individuality, Serbs in their turn proclaim Serbian Vojvodina (Serbian Duchy). Hungarian government replies by use of force. In 1849, the Hungarian army located on the Petrovaradin for tress shells and ravages the town, killing many of its inhabitants. After the defeat of the revolution in 1849, the Austrian Emperor adopts a new constitution, guaranteeing Serbs broader rights and religious freedoms. 1861 Serbian National Theatre, the oldest professional theatre among the South Slavs, is founded in Novi Sad. 1864 Matica Srpska, the oldest cultural-scientific institution of Serbia, is moved from Budapest to Novi Sad. 1914 Outbreak of the First World War. Petrovaradin Fortress serves as prison for arrested Serbs and POWs. 1918 Following the defeat of Austria-Hungary, Army of the Kingdom of Serbia enters Novi Sad. Grand Assembly of Serbs, Bunjevci, and other nations of Vojvodina in Novi Sad proclaims the union of Vojvodina region with the Kingdom of Serbia. Serbs, Croats and Slovenes unite into one state - Yugoslavia. 1929 Novi Sad becomes the capital of the Danube Banovina, a province of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. 1934 King Aleksandar of Yugoslavia visits Marseille in a bid to strengthen a defence union with France against Germany and is assassinated by Croatian Ustashe. 1941 The 27th March protests erupt against joining the Axis (Germany - Italy - Japan). Following a coup d’etat, 17-yer-old Crown Prince Petar assumes the throne. Nazi Germany attacks Yugoslavia on 6th April without declaration of war. The King and the government go into exile. Emergence of two Serbian resistance movement - chetnicks of Draža Mihailović and Tito’s partisans. Yugoslav territory is divided between Germany, Italy, Bulgaria, Hungary and Independent State of Croatia. Novi Sad is occupied by Hungarian fascists. 1942 In the course of three days in January, Hungarian fascists conduct a raid in Novi Sad, force more then 1,300 Serbs and Jews out of their homes and kill them. Most of the bodies were thrown into the Danube.  1944 Red Army units and Yugoslav partisans liberate Novi Sad. 1945 Toll of war is 1,700,000 deaths, chiefly among Serbs. Monarchy is abolished, Federal People’s Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed, and Josip Broz Tito is officially installed in power. Most of German population leaves Novi Sad. In the post-war period, Novi Sad becomes the capital of Vojvodina region, grows rapidly and develops into an important centre of political, cultural and sporting life. Crown Prince Aleksandar, son to King Peter II is born in Claridges Hotel in London. 1980 Josip Broz Tito dies. Yugoslavia is now governed by ‘Presidency’ comprised of 8 members (6 from the republics and 2 from Serbian provinces). 1991 Ethnic and political divisions lead to the collapse of Yugoslavia. Slovenia and Croatia declare independence, civil war erupts. Crown Prince Aleksandar II visits Serbia for the first time in his life. 1992 European Community recognises Croatia and Bosnia. Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is proclaimed. UN Security Council imposes economic embargo on Yugoslavia over its support to Serbs in Croatia and Bosnia who want to unify with federal Yugoslavia. 1993 The highest hyperin flation in the histor y - a 500,000,000,000 dinar note is printed in Serbia. 1994 End of hyperinflation, new dinar introduced. 1995 In the aftermath of Croatian war, around 300,000 Serb refugees leave Croatia for Serbia. 1996 Massive protests against Slobodan Milošević over electoral fraud at local elections. 1999 Long-lasting aspirations of Kosovo Albanians to secede from Serbia escalate in violent conflicts between Serbs and Albanians in Kosovo. The NATO forces bomb Serbia for three months, without endorsement of the UN Security Council. Slobodan Milošević is accused of crimes against humanity during the wars of Yugoslav succession. In June, following a piece agreement, NATO troops are stationed in Kosovo and Metohija. Around 200,000 Kosovo Serbs find refuge in Serbia. During the 78 days of bombing, Novi Sad is left without all of its three Danube bridges, communications, water, and electricity. Žeželj Bridge, the first bridge made of prestressed concrete in Europe, the second in the world, takes direct hits on four different days, before it finally collapses into the water, hit again by six missiles. Residential areas are cluster bombed several times while its oil refinery is bombarded daily, causing severe pollution and widespread ecological damage. The bombing of the refinery causes fires which burn 50,000 tons of crude oil, enveloping Novi Sad in black smoke 20 0 0 Sl ob odan Mil oševi ć is ousted amidst h u ge demonstrations over electoral fraud. Relations with European countries and the US improve. 2003 Federal Republic of Yugoslavia is replaced by State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. Serbian Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić, is assassinated by a criminal clan. The clearance of the debris, the remains of the bridges destroyed during the NATO strikes, is completed and the Danube again becomes navigable. 2004 Before the eyes of NATO and UN forces, around 50,000 Albanians launch orchestrated attacks on remaining Serbian villages in Kosovo and torch Serbian houses. In less than 48 hours, Albanians desecrate and destroy 30 Serbian churches and monasteries. July - September 2008 10 history 2006 State Union of Serbia and Montenegro ceases to exist. Serbia is again an independent state. 2007 Negotiations between Serbia and Kosovo Albanians about the status of Kosovo. Serbia is offering broad autonomy, Albanians desire nothing less than independence. The international community is divided over this issue. 2008 With support of the USA and some of the EU countries, Albanians from Kosovo and Metohija province of Serbia declare independence from Serbia. The international community is still divided over this issue - some countries have recognised Kosovo independence, some are against it. Serbian leadership does not want an armed conflict and is striving to prevent the secession of its province through diplomatic and political means. Massive protests are staged throughout Serbia. Around 500,000 people are gathered in Belgrade at peaceful demonstrations and prayer against Kosovo independence, while several hundreds of youngsters demolish and burn the emptied building of the US Embassy. Political framework Serbia is a parliamentary republic. The Serbian Parliament has 250 seats. The MPs are elected for a term of 4 years, the President is elected to serve a 5-year term. The most recent parliamentary elections were held in January 2007 and the presidential elections in January 2008. The current President is Boris Tadić of the Democratic Party, and the Prime Minister is Mirko Cvetković. Democratic Party, together with G17 Plus and Socialist Party of Serbia (deceased Slobodan Milošević’s party) form the ruling government coalition. The major opposition parties are the Serbian Radical Party (the single strongest party in Serbia), Democratic Party of Serbia and Liberal Democratic Party. Josip Broz Tito Tito is a myster y man who ruled supreme over Yugoslavia for 35 years. Secretary General of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia, leader of one of two resistance movements during WW2, life-long president of Yugoslavia and founder of Non-Aligned Movement. German occupation of Serbia and the flight of the King and the Government from the country played neatly to his advantage, as he prepared the way for a communist rule during the anti-fascist struggle. In the aftermath of the war, he banned the King from returning to the country and lived his life regally. A charmer and womaniser, a hedonist of sophisticated tastes, he was a darling to the proletariat, Hollywood stars, communist dictators and European aristocracy alike. Churchill himself, who cordially detested communists, sipped his breakfast bubbly with him. Unlike other countries of the eastern bloc, Yugoslavia was never behind the “iron curtain”. Tito defied Stalin’s directives and decided that it would best suit Yugoslavia to pursue its own socialist model. In response, Stalin kicked Yugoslavia out of the socialist camp, and imposed economic boycott. Several years later, Nikita Khrushchev, Stalin’s successor in the Soviet Union, visited Tito in Belgrade and penitently asked for reconciliation. Khrushchev was stunned by lavish soirées and the lifestyle at White Palace. Yugoslavia fostered good relations with all the countries in the world and Yugoslavs had the best of the two worlds and travelled freely worldwide, which made them the envy of eastern bloc countries. Tito’s funeral drew the largest number of statesmen in history (from 127 different nations). It also marked the beginning of the collapse of Yugoslavia. Novi Sad In Your Pocket Culture & events 11 EXIT Festival EXIT festival takes place in Novi Sad every July. The party lasts four days, attracting star performers and tens of thousands of festival-goers, still dancing well after sunrise. EXIT was started in 2000, by university students from Novi Sad, in the midst of political and economic turmoil in Serbia, and in a bid to rouse young people in Novi Sad against the incumbent repressive political regime. Held in historic Petrovaradin fortress since 2001, the festival grew in stature and gained international recognition. Last year EXIT won the UK Festival Award: Best Festival on the Continent. MTV and Radio BBC have traditionally supported the festival from 2004. on the programme, location of the stages, first aid, food and drink bars etc. If you should need assistance of the security officers, you will recognise them by their red T-shirts. EXIT Festival is held in the outdoors and there are no non-smoking areas. The EXIT Team has prepared various programmes for those who do not like to sleep too long. EXIT 07 introduced TOKENS as State of Exit’s official currency. The tokens, in shape of coins, may be purchased at specially marked booths in the fortress and the camp. You can only buy drinks using tokens, and to buy food and other items you will need Serbian dinars. Each token is intended for a specific type of drink only and you may not combine them to get other drinks. You will not be able to exchange the unspent tokens back for dinars, so plan ahead how many tokens you want to purchase. You could use them at the next festival though. Line-up and the performance times are subject to change. After all, EXIT has 25 stages with more than 600 performers, and the unforeseen may occur. You may bring in photo and video cameras only with official press accreditation. You may not drive your car to the festival venue. Most visitors cross the bridge on foot on their way to the fortress. If you take a taxi or public transport (line N°3), your ride will end as soon as you cross the bridge, and you will have to continue on foot. Useful Info You can buy festival tickets and camping passes online at http://etickets.to/exit/. You may not return the ticket once you buy it and there is no money refund. If you leave the festival premises during the evening/night, you will not be allowed to get in again. You are not allowed to bring in alcohol, juices, water, food (these you can buy at the festival), umbrellas (other than small foldable ones) and pets. As for the alcoholic beverages, the bars at the festival sell beer and wine. Inside the festival area, there are no telephone booths or places where you can leave your things locked, and you are advised not to carry more than a small backpack (please note that your baggage will be searched at the entrance for drugs and other forbidden items). There are info stands, where you can get more info EXIT Camp EXIT Camp opens on Monday, July 7th, 2008 at 08:00am, when you may start putting up your tents, and closes on Wednesday, July 16th, 2008 at 4:00pm. In order to buy a Exit Photo Team July - September 2008 12 Culture & events Main stage July 10 19:00 - 06:00 DMT, The BelRays, Nightwish, NERD, The Streets, Noisia & MC Verse, DJ Hype & MC IC3, Noisia, DJ Hype July 11 19:00 - 06:00 Superhis, Gossip, Paul Weller, Primal Scream, Roni Size Reprazent, Skream & Benga, Roni Size & MC Dynamite July 12 19:00 - 06:00 Bateria Sambansa, Gogol Bordello, Juliette and the Licks, Manu Chao, Afrika Bambaataa, High Contrast & MC Wrec July 13 19:00 - 06:00 KUD Idijoti, The Hives, Ministry, Pekinška patka, Sex Pistols, Shy MC & , Dillinja & MC Jakes Exit Photo Team camping pass, you have to have a ticket for the festival. The price of the camping pass is fixed, regardless of the days you intend to spend in the camp. You can buy camping passes at eng.exitfest.org. Entrance and accommodation in the EXIT Camp is permitted only to guests wearing special bands that they receive at the reception upon arrival. You must bring your own tent or sleeping bag as they are not available for hire in the camp. You may leave your valuables at the reception desk for safe-keeping. It is necessary to present your ID or passport on check-in, for identification purposes. The camp is equipped with 150 mobile toilet cabins, 60 enclosed shower stalls with hot water and 80 washbasins. There is the Food Land just outside the campsite, where you can buy food and drinks. For safety reasons, you are not allowed to light fires, have BBQs or bring in pets on camp grounds. There is a parking area near the camp, but the camp is not liable for the security of the vehicles. First Aid and fire fighting teams and are stationed inside the camp. ‘EXIT Be Positive’ internet café offers free internet access to the camp visitors, 24 hours a day, for 15 minutes’ turns. There is also wireless internet on the camp grounds. Exit Photo Team EXIT Trip EXIT team has started a tourist service site www.exittrip. org where festival visitors may book transpor t and accommodation during the festival, and obtain useful info and tips about Novi Sad. You may book shuttle service to Novi Sad from any airport, railway or bus station in the country or the region in the radius of 500km. EXIT trip offers buses, minivans, limos and cars. Each visitor using the EXIT Trip accommodation services will be given a contact number of their host - volunteer, whom they can contact during the festival for any info about EXIT. During the day, there will be fun trips (ride on the balloon, the Danube boating trip, visit to salaši, etc) or educational tours (monuments, museums, etc). The safe and reliable EXIT booking service is the only official booking service of the Festival. www.exittrip.org My Bel Dance Arena July 10 23:00 - 08:00 Heidi, Audion Live, Sven Vath, Francois K, Kos July 11 23:00 - 08:00 Alex Metric, Tiga, Soulwax Live, Laurent Garnier, 2 Many DJ’s July 12 23:00 - 08:00 People Get Real, Miguel Migs ft. Lisa Shaw, Kreuder & Dorfmeister Live, Axwell, Tom Novy July 13 23:00 - 08:00 Claude VonStroke, Ben Watt, Booka Shade Live, Dubfire (Deep Dish) & Sharam (Deep Dish) Exit Photo Team Novi Sad In Your Pocket Culture & events World Music Stage July 10 19:30 - 04:00 SOPOT (Bosnia and Herzegovina), DRUM’N’ZEZ (Serbia), AKOS LAKI & LAKI LATINO (Serbia, Holland), TERRAKOTA (Portugal), WATCHA CL AN (France), SHAZ AL AKAZOO (Serbia) July 11 19:45 - 04:00 SO SABI (Serbia), GUSTAFI (Croatia), PANNONIA ALLSTARS SKA ORCHESTRA (Hungary), MAX PASHM BAND (United Kingdom), DJ GAETANO FABRI (Belgium) 13 July 13 19:10 - 03:00 Forever Storm, Disdained, Downstroy, Gunsale, Stronghold (Croatia), Overdrive, No Abuse, Ritam nereda Performers - Main stage DJ Afrika Bambaataa “Father of the Electrofunk sound”. American rapper, DJ, producer and one of the creators of the hip-hop sound will perform on the Exit Main Stage on Saturday 12th July as part of the ‘Main Stage After 2’ program. This will be one of the rare performances this year of one of the most influential people in the history of modern music. www.zulunation. com/afrika.html Gogol Bordello A multi-ethnic band from New York with uplifting gypsy rhythms and punk sound blended together. Not only to be heard, this is one of those bands that has to be seen as well - 8 performers, always in authentic, colourful, baggy clothes with harmonicas and moustaches, Gogol Bordello are known for the carnival atmosphere they bring wherever they go. This is what the New York Times wrote about the band: “Iggy Pop meets Kafka”. British comedian Phill Jupitus used these words to describe the Brooklyn punkers: “A bit like The Clash and The Pogues having a fight ...in Eastern Europe”. www.gogolbordello.com Exit Photo Team July 12 19:45 - 04:00 VASIL HADŽIMANOV BAND (Serbia), FATIMA SPAR UND DIE FREEDOM FRIES (Austria), BESH O DROM (Hungary), KULTUR SHOCK (USA), DJ CLICK (France) July 13 19:30 - 04:00 MATO URALO (Serbia), OGNJEN & PRIJATELJI (Serbia), VRELO (Serbia), ORKESTRA DEL SOL (United Kingdom), BOOM PAM (Israel), DJ KOSTA KOSTOV (Germany) Explosive Stage July 10 19:10 - 03:00 Decontrolled, Azazel, Fancy Frogs, Holy Pain (France), Rotting Christ (Greece), Tales of Dark, Pergament, Hetera, Apocalypse July 11 19:10 - 03:00 Tea Break, Violent Chapter, Concrete Worms, 2 Minuta Mržnje, Sham 69 (UK), Bite, False Reality, Nothing Left July 12 19:10 - 03:00 Svartgren, Nekropolis, Panychida (Czech), Avenger (Czech), Tiamat (Sweden), Kozeljnik, Punished, Somrak (Slovenia) Exit Photo Team Gossip The controversial American punk indie-rock trio. The band was formed in 1999 simply because, as they themselves put it, they were bored and because they wanted to make the crowds dance, and for those who don’t care to dance they recommend that they stay at home and listen to oldies radio. Gossip, from the very beginning, has provoked tumultuous reactions because of their image, open attitude toward sexuality, feminist stands as well as their struggle for homosexual rights and an overall respect for human rights. www.gossipyouth.com July - September 2008 14 Culture & events Manu Chao A Franco-Spanish musician and activist, former frontman of the French Latino punks Mano Negra, known today as Manu Chao. Hailing from a family that, because of the Franco regime, escaped from Spain to France, he is a world traveller who organised unforgettable parties and put across left-wing messages from a ship cruising along the South American coastline, a critic of president Bush’s administration and an anti-globalist. Manu Chao sings about love, about immigrants life and about the struggle for a better world, in different languages and plays music that is a mixture of genres that came from different influences from French chanson to classic rock and punk rock to Caribbean sounds. www. manuchao.net Exit Photo Team Juliette and the Licks Miss Lewis and her band have been hitting the rock scene pretty hard since 2004 with their raw, loud and often energetic guitar-driven rock & roll. Juliette Lewis came to fame as a Hollywood actress portraying wild and bizarre characters in movies such as “Natural Born Killers”. In early 2003, she put her movie-career on hold and got together her four-piece, The Licks, and thus finally kicked off her rock & roll dream. Their performances are nothing short of furious, with explosive guitar riffs, hard drumming and Juliette singing like there’s no tomorrow. Her voice is as raw, gritty and powerful as the rock music will let it be and her on-stage antics are contagious and get the crowd jumping as much as she does. There are no fancy sets, no video beams, no lasers, no backing dancers, just pure and simple rock & roll! www.julietteandthelicks.com Exit Photo Team Ministry The biggest industrial-metal band is coming to the Main stage of the Exit festival to blow away the crowd! Al Jourgensen, the singer and frontman of this cult American band, is often referred to as the guru of industrial-metal music. The trademark of Ministry is a special, rough, electronically processed vocal, which, with the ample help of sampling and the tireless distortion, leaves the audience breathless. The typical heavy-metal solo in the middle of the pure punk-rock theme, followed by the powerful vocal with thrash riffs that don’t stop till the very end of the song is only one of the many versions of the famous Ministry fusion. www. ministrymusic.org Exit Photo Team Exit Photo Team N.E.R.D. One of the biggest names in contemporary American music, in their full lineup, with their whole band and backing vocals, will play at Exit 08. Breakbeat, jazzy and funky rhythms along with short synth motif energy and loud drums and guitars which transform well known samples into an infectious lightmotif throughout the performance, there are the remarkable and distinctive features of live N.E.R.D. performance. www. n-e-r-d.com Novi Sad In Your Pocket Culture & events Nightwish Nightwish is usually described as a symphonic and power metal band, and also as a soundtrack metal band. The definition of symphonic metal is based on Nightwish’s massive inclusion of instruments and vocal styles of classical music and film scores. Tuomas Holopainen, the keyboardist, band founder and songwriter, says that he gets most of the inspiration for his songs from film music. He described the Nightwish music as ‘melodic heavy metal with a female vocalist’. www.nightwish.com 15 roll. Their openness toward new musical forms brought the underground closer to the rock mainstream and their music brought a specific tune, which has made them today one of the most influential British bands. www.primalscream.net Roni Size Roni will have two performances at Exit – Roni Size Reprazent live act and one with the well known MC Dynamite. “You are not aware of what you have here. Nowhere else do people stay to dance till 9am the following morning like they do here,” Roni said after one of his performances at Exit. As one of the most respected names in Great Britain with huge productions behind him, Roni has released this year a remake of the “New Forms” album dating back to 1997 which brought him and his crew, Reprazent, world fame and the Mercury prize and which sold 5 million copies. Whether it is his producing or DJ-ing work, his name still stands as the epitome of one of the most original and most creative phenomena in music today. www.fullcycle.co.uk Exit Photo Team Paul Weller One of the most influential British musicians of all times and the former frontman of the legendary The Jam and The Style Council. Many musicians were inspired by his music and many still are. Paul Weller was the principal figure of the Mod Revival, and for this reason he is nowadays often called the Modfather. Weller has also influenced many English musicians who belonged to various genres, ranging from his mod revival contemporaries to The Smiths in the ‘80s and Oasis in the ‘90s. For more than 30 years, he has been constantly present in the charts. At the Exit Festival, the audience will have the opportunity to hear both some of his classics and the songs from his new album. www. paulweller.com Exit Photo Team Sex Pistols The Sex Pistols are not the first punk band, but they certainly are the band which participated in the making of the massive independent underground scene in England and America. Their live performances became legendary. Although they lasted only three years, they recorded one album and four singles, which forever changed the world music scene. At Exit, they will perform in their original line-up: Johnny Rotten, vocals, Steve Jones, guitar, Glen Matlock, bass guitar, and Paul Cook, drums. Best of all, after 30 years, the fans at Exit will get the opportunity to hear the new songs of this legendary British band. www.sex-pistols.net The Hives Always in their black-and-white suits, with their unforgettable acts, the music that many wrongfully thought was long gone, and the lyrics which they claim to be written by their Exit Photo Team Primal Scream One of the most influential British bands. The unforgettable performances which are part of the band’s repertoire hold a promise of another great concert spectacle. After two decades in existence, Primal Scream became synonymous with the tempestuous and innovative 80’s and 90’s in rock & roll. They have come a long way from indie-pop scene, to the psychedelic, garage and dance tune enriched sound which made them both world-known and actual stars, through to their mature years marked by a return of the classic rock & July - September 2008 16 Culture & events Svengali Randy Fitzsimmons, the performance of The Hives at Exit will for many people surely be a dream come true. Apart from amazing live performance, we can expect a direct contact with the audience, such as stage diving, and a lot of climbing and jumping, but also totally wacky statements and messages from the singer Pelle Almqvist. www.thehivesbroadcastingservice.com recognized today even by those who do not rank electronic music high in the list their list of musical interests. The care he devotes to his looks and style has made a name for itself, often associated with the fashion world. www.tiga.ca Performers - Dance arena Exit Photo Team Exit Photo Team Booka Shade This German duo, Arno Kammermeier and Walter Merziger, bring their world famous electrohouse beats. Apart from being a phenomenal live act, they are veteran producers as well, and have been part of the dance scene since their formative synth-pop days in the early 90s. Arno and Walter have a great stage presence and rely on their music and energy to put on a great live act and get festival crowds, indoors and outdoors, jumping all night long. www.bookashade.com Kruder and Dorfmeister The music from this Austrian duo has been described as being somewhere in between British breakbeat or the American illbient and at this year’s Exit festival they will be presenting “The Kruder and Dorfmeister Summer Sessions”. Both Kruder and Dorfmeister will play a 2-hour set which will encompass more than a decade’s worth of club and funk tunes and show the musical direction the duo will take in the future. www.g-stoned.com/artists/kd/ Exit Photo Team 2 Many DJ’s The Belgian duo of 2 Many DJ’s invites you to another electro party. They consist of two brothers, David and Stephen Dewaele. Together with Stefaan Van Leuven, Steve Slingeneyer and Dave Martijn, they also make the band ‘Soulwax’. We can expect a loud and technically perfect performance. www.soulwax.com Laurent Garnier One of the world’s most valued French producers and DJs over the past two decades. Since his first appearance with the alias DJ Pedro in the late 80’s in the famous Manchester Hacienda amidst the acid house explosion, Laurent Garnier has became one of the biggest stars of the global electronic music scene. Today he is considered a DJ and producer who is equally appreciated by the die-hard lovers of the Detroit techno scene and newer generations. www.laurentgarnier. com Exit Photo Team Sven Vath One of the world’s best DJs, known for his long and crazy sets. He has over a hundred releases to his name, whether as an author, producer, DJ, re-mixer or owner of a recording company - Cocoon Recordings. The media christened Sven Vath as ‘The Godfather of Techno’. cocoon.net Tiga The best known Canadian DJ and producer whose name is synonymous with the Canadian electro house scene. From 2000, he has been building up his image as one of the best remix masters whose covers have become big hits, Novi Sad In Your Pocket 17 18 Culture & events Why EXIT “Exit is the wild, painted face of fun in the new Europe - more of a carnival than a festival. It is the thinking person’s party, where hedonism meets activism. It is a volcanic eruption of joy from which you walk away enlightened, wishing Exit had no end. It’s slogan ought to be - Party hard and remember - apathy is the enemy!” Neil Arun, journalist “It was the best festival we played this year” Liam Howlett, The Prodigy “People here are straightforward and open, and reactions of the audience thrill me. Unlike some other places, the audience here is not phoney. They enjoy themselves and exchange the energy. The Fortress is the best place to have a festival.” Darren Emerson “I‘ve never even dreamed that the hospitality and casualness of these people would make me stay in Novi Sad for much longer then I’d planned. I’ve never stayed anywhere after the gig, by the way.” Dave de Rose, Moloko “We didn’t have a clue about what to expect…and it was incredible…” Nick Halam, Stereo MC’s “You don’t realize what you’ve got here. People don’t stay up dancing until 9:00 the next day anywhere anymore, as they do here.” Roni Size “Exit was more than we could have expected it to be. The audience was exceptional and the setting was breathtaking. I hope they have us back sometime.” Alex Kapranos, Franz Ferdinand “Serbia was fantastic we all really enjoyed it – the audience was amazing and it was the best show on the tour so far.” Billy Idol “Exit Festival was great, amazing night, played from 3am till 6:30 when the sun came up and to see so many people in a moat was something else.” Carl Cox “An absolutely amazing festival both in terms of the crowds that came and the people behind the scenes. The setting was amazing with the sun coming up and the sound system was intense (as opposed to in tents which would normally be the case at a festival but I digress), I was so happy that I could finally be a part of this and would like to thank everyone that came along.” Dave Clarke “I found the Exit Festival very inspirational; that so many people came together, through electronic music, for a great cause... Amazing!” Felix Da Housecat “Exit was in an extraordinary setting with so much diversity in one place…. the enthusiasm and energy with which we were greeted, was a humbling and emotional experience”. Karl, Underworld Novi Sad Summer Music Festival June 1 - September 1 www.muzickaomladina.org July 3, 21:00. Big Band RTS, Štrand beach. Programme: An Evening of Film Music July 5, 21:00. Las Felinas del Tango, The Cathedral. Programme: Piazzolla, Plaza, Radrizzani, Saborido, Arolas, Rodrigez July 6, 21:00. Alterno duo (Italy), The Cathedral. Programme: Sinigaglia, Piacentini, Ghedini, Morricone, Berio July 9, 21:00. KFUM Chamber Choir (Sweden), The Cathedral. Programme: Martinů, Söderman Stenhammar Webber, Vivaldi, Mendelssohn July 10 , 21:00. Pavel Kohout (Czech Republic), The Cathedral. Programme: Mendelssohn, Franck July 16, 21:00. La Sed Gitana Nikolajevska 1. Programme: An Evening of the Flamenco July 18, 21:00. Caputo - Pompilio Nikolajevska 1. Programme: J. S. Bach: Goldberg Variations July 21 , 21:00. Klarinetizmo (Clarinet Quartet) Nikolajevska 1. Programme: Albinoni, Bach, Haydn, Mozart, Gershwin, Piazzolla July 29, 21:00. Yevgeny Xaviereff, Svetlana Chlaidze, The Cathedral. Programme: Shostakovich, Hindemith, Martinu August 1, 21:00. Goran Filipec (Croatia), The Cathedral. Programme: Bach - Busoni, Beethoven, Liszt August 5, 21:00. Dominant String Quartet (Russia), The Cathedral. Programme: Shostakovich, Glazunov, Borodin August 10, 21:00. Elena Nogaeva (Russia) ,The Cathedral. Programme: Schumann, Chopin August 25, 21:00. Gaëlle Solal (France), The Cathedral. August 28, 21:00. An Evening of Chamber Music, The Cathedral. Programme: Mendelssohn, Brahms International Meeting of Oldtimer Enthusiasts August 30-31 Freedom Square C-2 An international event organised by Novi Sad Veteran Club. Owners of vintage cars, bikes and various other special vehicles get to meet and exchange their experiences. Parade of all participants at the Freedom Square, ride through the town streets, dexterity and daring test, Fruška Gora Rally... 100Din. = €0.78; GBP1; US$0.50 (30 June 2008) Novi Sad In Your Pocket Culture & events Ticket agents Biletservis C-2, IPS Megastore, Zmaj Jovina 15, tel. 661 41 31. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. Biletservis C-2, IPS Bazar Store, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 423-810. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. 1 you can get the relevant info at: 82 50 17, 82 60 83 or posta@ vilinavodica.org.yu. Art Colony September 5-7 Kamenjar Fish restaurant Three-day event, bringing together painters, novelists and poets. The artists, inspired by the Danube and its surroundings work on paintings, and fish specialties, live music and good wine serve to stimulate their imagination. Antiques, Hobbies and Objects of Art Fair September 25 Hotel Vojvodina C-2 Featuring an extensive range of antiques, porcelain, trophy weapons, jewellery, clocks, books and paintings. Visitors can have their items assessed free of charge, and there will be and exchange of items. The Fair is organised by Srpska Atina Association of Collectors and Antiques Enthusiasts. Brankovo kolo September 5-15 Sremski Karlovci, Novi Sad Event dedicated to the 19th century Serbian poet, Branko Radičević. Evenings of poetry, talks with writers, panels, drama, music and fine arts programmes. Venues are in Novi Sad, Stražilovo and Sremski Karlovci. www.brankovokolo. org Theatres SNP - Serbian National Theatre (drama, opera, ballet) C-2, Pozorišni trg 1, tel. 662 14 11, www.snp.org.yu Ujvideki Szinhaz (drama) C-2, Jovana Subotića 3-5, tel. 52 53 88, www.uvszinhaz.co.yu Vesela kornjača (children’s theatre) C-2, Nikole Pašića 34, tel. 661 33 28, www.veselakornjaca.com Youth Theatre (children’s theatre and evening stage) C2, Ignjata Pavlasa 8, tel. 52 58 84, www.pozoristemladih. co.yu IFUS - International Festival of Street Musicians September 9-13 Wonderful parade of street artists (particularly musicians) from all over the world on streets and squares of Novi Sad. The Festival offers diverse music genres, funny instruments, jugglers, street shows, acrobatics… On the last day of the festival all performers takes part in the grand finale. If you want to be part of the festival, register at ckans@nadlanu, or you can download the registration form at www.cekans. org.yu. Cinemas Arena C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 3, tel. 661 57 72 Jadran C-2, Poštanska 5, tel. 52 88 38 KCNS, Katolička porta 5, tel. 52 83 46 Art galleries Gallery of Matica Srpska C-2, Trg Galerija 1, tel. 489 90 00. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 20:00, Closed Mon, Sun Commemorative Collection of Pavle Beljanski C-2, Trg Galerija 2, tel. 52 81 58. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Tue Gift - Collection of Rajko Mamuzić C-2, Vase Stajica 1, tel. 52 04 67. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon, Tue SANU - Platoneum Gallery C-2, Nikole Pasića 6, tel. 42 02 10. Open 09:00 - 19:00 Prometej Gallery, Trg Marije Trandafil 11, tel. 422 245, Open 09:00 - 23:00 Boško Petrović Tapestry Gallery D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress - Studio 61, tel. 43 35 88. Open 09:00 - 17:00, 09:00 - 14:30 Association of Artists of Vojvodina C-2, Mihajla Pupina 9, tel. 52 49 91, Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00 Forma C-2, Ilije Ognjanovića 3, tel. 52 44 81. Open 09:00 - 17:00 Zlatno oko C-2, Laze Telečkog, tel. 52 90 75. Open 08:00 - 13:00 and 17:00 - 20:00 Gallery of Photo C-2, Cinema and Video Association of Vojvodina, Nikole Pašićca 28, tel. 52 07 80. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Gallery of the Army Club C-2, Beogradski kej 9, tel. 52 78 92. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00 6th Bukovac Marathon September 13 Fruška Gora Marathon routes pass through beautiful countryside of the Fruška Gora National Park, attracting walkers, runners and bikers. There are four marathon routes: for juniors - 7km, basic marathon - 16km, half marathon - 35.2km and full marathon - 47.8km. All routes are well marked and have check points, and each participant receives an information leaflet with the route description. Winners are awarded diplomas and all those who manage to finish marathon receive certificate of appreciation. If you wish to participate, Venues Karađorđe Stadium B-3, Dimitrija Tucovića 3 SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 22 22, www.spens.co.yu Synagogue B-2, Jevrejska 11 The Name of Mary Parish Church (The Cathedral) C-2, Trg slobode July - September 2008 20 Culture & events Art Parlour of City Cultural Centre, Katolička porta 5, tel. 52 92 35. Open 10:00 - 14:00 and 17:00 - 21:00, Sat 17:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun Little Art Parlour of the Cultural Centre C-2, Mihajla Pupina 11, tel. 52 51 20. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun Cesla C-3, Sunčani kej 13, tel. 45 89 72. Open 08:00 - 01:00 Bel C-2, Mihajla Pupina 7, tel. 52 32 27. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00 Renata C-2, Trg Mladenaca 8, tel. 662 15 00. Open 10:00 - 13:00 and 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun Da C-3, Fruškogorska 29, tel. 635 07 44. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00 Bunker C-2, Železnička 4, tel. 635 07 44, Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun Perspektiva D-2, Koste Nađa 30 (Petrovaradin), tel. 43 31 46. Open 18:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun City`s Sales Gallery C-2, Zmaj Jovina 22, tel. 42 16 51. Open 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00 Associate Ar tist of Petrovaradin For tress D -2, Petrovaradin fortress, tel. (064)218 48 73. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon beautiful folk costume, art exhibitions, etc. Those lucky enough to find accommodation in Guča or neighbouring villages will be awakened by the blaring call of the trumpet every morning at 7am. Accommodation and transport: www.guca.co.yu ‘I didn’t know you could play trumpet that way’ Miles Davis, a Guča Festival visitor Programme: August 6 10:00 Opening of the festival 12:00 Press conference 16:00 Opening of an exhibition of Dragačevo women weavers, opening of art exhibitions 18:00 Promotion of books and publications 20:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups August 7 10:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups 12:00 Press conference 13:00 Festival wedding 18:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups 21:00 Concert of Trumpet Masters August 8 10:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 12:00 Press conference 13:00 Foreign brass orchestras show 14:00 Traditional sports tournament 15:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 17:00 Semi-final competition of brass orchestras - seniors 18:00 ‘They won - they deserved it’ performance 21:00 Concert of foreign brass orchestras 23:00 Concert of Boban Marković August 6-10 Guča village in Dragačevo disctrict The sound of the trumpet is traditionally part of every major event in Serbia, whether public of personal. The trumpet rends the air signalling to the world births, weddings, slavas (family patron saint day), new years, elections, even funerals. The small village of Guča in Serbia’s heartland has gained worldwide fame for the largest and craziest trumpet event on the planet - the Assembly of Trumpet Players from Serbia who compete every year for the coveted title of the best trumpeter and the best orchestra. Earlier in the year, keen qualifying contests are held throughout Serbia, allowing only 16 orchestras to compete in the Guča finale. The song ‘Sa Ovčara i Kablara’, performed by all the competing brass bands, traditionally marks the beginning of the festival. The musicians are for the most part self-thought, playing by the ear. The concerts take place at the village stadium, and all day and night long, numerous non-competing brass bands play for visitors under tents selling grilled meat, beer and plum brandy. The festival attracts over half a million people every year, dancing joyfully to the irresistible adrenalin-rushing rhythms. Boban Marković, a famous trumpet player, the only one who has ever won the highest mark from every jury member and who since then decided not to compete any more, will give a concert with his orchestra. There will be 15 orchestras from abroad, as well as traditional sports contests (such as stone throwing), competition for the most August 9 07:00 Wake-up call of trumpet players 10:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 12:00 Press conference 13:00 Toast-masters competition 13:00 Competition for the most beauti ful national costume 14:00 Concert of brass orchestras, dancing and singing groups from Serbia and abroad 17:00 Festival parade of all program participants 18:00 Competition of the youth brass orchestras - children and juniors 23:00 Midnight brass concert August 10 07:00 Wake-up call of trumpet players 11:00 Festival parade of all program participants 12:00 Improvisation of a traditional Dragacevo wedding 13:00 Press conference 15:00 Final competition of brass orchestras - seniors 19:00 Announcement of the final competition winners: the best trumpeters, the best orchestras 20:00 Grand festival folk dance ‘See you at the next festival’ 48th Dragačevo Assembly www.inyourpocket.com Novi Sad In Your Pocket The true hedonistic experience of Vojvodina Međunarodni put 137 21233 Čenej (12km from Novi Sad) Information and reservations: +381 21 71 45 01 or +381 21 71 45 05 www.salas137.co.yu Salaš 137 22 salaŠ 137 sure to try the čekić (hammer) - a bite-size prune stuffed with aromatic cheese and wrapped in grilled bacon. Ideally, the ‘hammer’ should be followed by the chicken soup with homemade noodles (made and cut by hand), after which you can stretch your legs by taking a leisurely walk around the compound until the main course arrives (nobody will touch anything left on your table during your walk). We recommend you try the stuffed zucchini or the smoked knuckle of pork topped with horseradish and spices and baked in an earthenware pot until golden-brown. One of the various types of sweets on offer and a cup of freshlyprepared Serbian coffee would be a perfect way to end a perfect lunch. The philosophy behind this type of cuisine is to be able to relish good food and local wine without having to think about calories and every-day responsibilities. During the summer it is best to eat outdoors, beneath the cool shade of the walnut tree. If a myriad of work-related responsibilities has kept you from spending quality time with your children during the course of the week, this is the perfect opportunity to redeem yourself. You will be able to spend an entire day with them, watching them run after a ball or a flock of chickens. The entire compound is surrounded by fields that children don’t generally find very interesting, so you won’t have to worry about letting them out of your sight. However, if you should doze off after lunch and lose sight of them, you are most likely to find them in the stable with the donkey. For some reason, children find the donkey considerably more appealing than other animals, and they could spend hours watching it and petting it. You may also bring your dog along to this salaš. If it’s well behaved, minds its own business and keeps away from the plates of other guests, he will be allowed to run around the yard freely. If you ever need to escape the hustle and bustle of the city or are simply in search of a peaceful setting where the air is fresh, the food healthy and the atmosphere laid back, Salaš 137 is just the place for you. The term salaš refers to an isolated village estate surrounded by avenues of trees protecting the backyard from wind and separating it from the fields around it. A group of about 400 salaš estates is located in the area of Čenej village, known for its outstanding fertility and abundance of dark soil. The salaš we wish to cover at present is the one called Salaš 137. It offers an authentic experience of life in the country (with agricultural land surrounding the estate, as well as farm animals such as sheep and chickens). Houses on a typical salaš are packed with old furniture, antique movables and other interesting items decorating the colourful walls. It is the ideal place for incurable romantics and hedonists, and since it can get pretty crowded on weekends, it would be wise to call ahead of time and reserve a table. The Salaš 137 restaurant offers specialties of the local Vojvodina cuisine, prepared and served in the ‘slow food’ style. That means indulging yourself with aperitifs in the form of local quince rakija (brandy) before lunch, and then, while chatting with friends, nibbling on a variety of cheeses, pies, salads, ham, and sausages served on a wooden platter. Be As to other adult activities available, archery might be an interesting sport to try out, whereas golf enthusiasts can practice their tee shot. You can also take a ride around the neighbourhood in a horse-drawn carriage or learn horseback riding. More experienced riders have over 20 horses at their disposal for recreational riding. This salaš also offers a playground for children, a mini-football field, volleyball and badminton, a small gym, sauna, and a massage service. You can purchase interesting souvenirs at the 24-hour open reception, and boarding for dogs and horses is also available. For those who wish to use this beautiful and relaxing ambiance to lure their business partners into a deal, Salaš Novi Sad In Your Pocket salaŠ 137 137 offers a conference room, and there is also the option of renting the entire compound, which is blanketed in full with a Wi-Fi signal. In addition, Salaš 137 includes a branch of the Safari Club International, a hunting organisation operating in 37 countries, composed of hunters who, aside hunting, are also dedicated to wildlife conservation and outdoor education. If you like, the salaš staff can take you on a hunting trip, as long as it is previously arranged. Salaš 137 has a total of 14 rooms equipped with old, authentic furniture, and each has a bathroom, TV set and a CD player. Some rooms feature queen-size beds, and others have separate single 23 can easily hold four children or two adult lovers (depending on whether you are there with your family or on a romantic getaway). It can be a months wait to get a room on a weekend, whereas on weekdays a room is much easier to book. If you plan on spending the night at the salaš, it is advised that you inform the owners about this before your arrival. Salaš 137 is only 15 minutes’ drive from Novi Sad. Its proximity makes it a tempting option for travellers who cannot find any place to stay in Novi Sad, or those who prefer the country ambiance, away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The road from Novi Sad to Salaš 137 is a local road called Međunarodni put (International) which will take you directly to Salaš 137, with no turnings. If you are not sure whether you are on the right track, ask any passer-by for the road to Čenej (Čenej is a village near Salaš 137). When you see a sign indicating a left-hand turn to Čenej whilst on your way from Novi Sad, you should slow down because you will soon see a wooden sign on your right that says ‘Salaš 137’, as well as a small road that leads to the estate. Salaš 137 Međunarodni put 137, 21233 Čenej (12km from Novi Sad) Information and reservations: (+38121)71 45 01 www.salas137.co.yu beds. Rooms do not include air conditioning, which in truth is unnecessary due to the shade provided by the trees, as well as the thick walls. The bathrooms have large bathtubs which July - September 2008 24 where to stay The range of accommodation on offer in Novi Sad is fairly broad and will fit every budget. Most rooms are good value for the money, but note that most hotels will double their rates during the International Agricultural Fair in May and the famed EXIT Festival. Serbia is still a heaven for smokers and nonsmokers will be hard pressed to find non-smoking rooms. Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms 6 Animal friendly C Swimming pool Cream of the crop Leopold I D-2, Petrovaradinska tvrđava bb, tel. 488 78 78, fax 488 78 77, www.leopoldns.com. A luxury hotel with the most exquisite of locations - on top of Petrovaradin Fortress, with a magnificent view of Novi Sad. The rooms and suites on the ground and first floor are decorated in the baroque style, those on the second floor have modern furniture. Rooms for daytime use only are also available at half price. The hotel also features a Havana Club and restaurants with Italian, Asian and Vojvodina style cuisine, whose open terraces overlooking the Danube and the city. 45 rooms and 13 suites (singles €135-175, doubles €124-165, suites €196-382). Prices include VAT and breakfast. Simboli: APHDFUCORKGL ««««« Park B-2, Novosadskog sajma 35, tel. 488 88 88, www. hotelparkns.com. The largest hotel in town, situated near the Novi Sad Fair, surrounded by a large park. The rooms are fitted with modern furniture or with replica period pieces. Most rooms are equipped with hydro massage bath tubs. The hotel offers good service, various facilities, including a wellness centre and the hugely popular night club. Ideal for business travellers. 98 rooms and 58 suites (singles €63-69, doubles €82, suites €89-396). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHDTFCOR6KGL ««««« and 9 suites (singles €57, doubles €68, triples €72,5, suites €85-87). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APDOKL ««« Sajam B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. 42 02 66, www. hotelsajam.co.yu. A very decent hotel, situated 2km from the town centre. Its proximity to Novi Sad Fair and peaceful surroundings make it especially suitable for business people. Renovated in 2007, the rooms are light and airy. One of very few hotels in Novi Sad offering non-smoking rooms. 65 rooms and 6 suites (singles €46, doubles €59, suites €59-79). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APK pušenje,GL ««« Vojvodina C-2, Trg Slobode 2, tel. 662 21 22, fax 661 54 45, www. hotelvojvodina.co.yu. The oldest hotel in town, opened in 1854. It is in the centre of the town on Trg slobode, so it is ideal for those who prefer being right in the centre of the action to peace and quiet. The atmosphere in the hotel befits its age and the staff are sometimes sluggish and disinterested. 59 rooms and 2 suites (singles €39, doubles €55, triples €68, suites €75). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AK ««« Upmarket Aleksandar B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 89, tel. 480 44 44, fax 480 44 80, www.aleksandar-hotel.co.yu. The newest hotel in town. Although remote from the town centre, it is very close to the Štrand beach on the Danube and Ribarsko ostrvo (Fishing Island) packed with restaurants and clubs. The hotel has a modern and carefully designed interior, and the rooms are spacious and elegant. Bathrooms are equipped with hydro massage showers. The hotel has a congress hall, making it ideal for business people. 20 rooms and 7 suites (singles €100, doubles €110, suites €140-180). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHD FURKL «««« Panorama B-2, Futoška 1a, tel. 480 18 00, www. hotelpanorama.co.yu. A small hotel opened in 2006 on the 6th floor of a commercial building, not far from the town centre. Different rooms have different furnishings, but they are all comfortable and well-equipped (each has a DVD home cinema system and a hydro massage shower) and have a nice view of the town. The staff is very friendly and efficient. Apart from breakfast, the hotel does not offer any other services. 9 rooms and 4 suites (singles €62-86, doubles €62-86, suites €105-115). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APR «« Budget Rimski C-1, Jovana Cvijića 26, tel. 44 32 31, fax 44 32 37, www.rimski.co.yu. A short stroll away from the centre of the town. The rooms are clean but a little cramped and the suits are a far better option. The restaurant on the top floor feels a little claustrophobic due to the sloping ceiling, but it has truly separate rooms for smokers and non-smokers. Although the hotel is quite small, the helpful staff will make a genuine effort to meet your requests - whether it is baby sitting or fax machine or conference room. 22 rooms and 5 suites (singles €30-50, doubles €40-60, suites €100105). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHURK GL ««« Duga A-3, Ćirila i Metodija 11b, tel. 46 70 00, fax 46 97 54, www.duga-radisic.co.yu. A hotel with ungainly exterior on the outskirts of Novi Sad. The rooms are clean and basic, ideal for large groups of young guests who do not care too much about the interior design. The hotel features a tourist agency organising tours round Novi Sad and its neighbourhood, a basketball court, a shop, a beauty parlour, a large hall for various festive events and a restaurant where you can always buy freshly roasted meat. 53 rooms and 8 suites (singles €33-40, doubles €42-48, triples €51-57, suites €75-92). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APTKL « Braća Drinić Epicentar BBB, Branka Ćopića 122, tel. 674 82 80, www.hotelbracadrinic.com. At a 10 minutes ride from the town centre. The rooms offer the comfort of a Mid-range Novi Sad B-2. 442 511. Situated right across the Central Bus and Railway Stations and well connected to the other parts of the town via public buses network. Standard rooms are nice and clean, not overtly stylish, but quite acceptable for a short stay. Your night’s sleep will be a lot more restful if you request a room not overlooking the street. 103 rooms Novi Sad In Your Pocket where to stay good-quality hostel and feature nice bathrooms. The overall impression is that the owners do not have much experience with running a hotel, but are keen to make a mark. It is not ideal for family visits because of the café on the ground floor equipped with slot machines. 22 rooms and 2 suites (singles €41, doubles €49, triples €58, suites €71-89). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL «« 25 Bed & Breakfast ACenter Birotel B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 94, tel. 489 72 22, www.acenter-birotel.com. Situated on the top floor of a newly built residential building some 4km from the centre of the town. The rooms are small, but clean and wellappointed, and some have a Jacuzzi bath. The open terrace on the roof enjoys a fine view of the town. Breakfast is served in a public room on the ground floor with unusual décor, which doubles as a café. Hotel services include car parking as well as car wash and minor car repairs. 18 rooms and 1 suite (singles €54, doubles €72, triples €94, suites €125-172). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APU6RKGL Gymnas B-3. Teodora Pavlovića 28, tel. 46 77 10, fax 474 07 04, www.gymnas.co.yu. Among the best hotels in Novi Sad. Its greatest shortcoming is that the town centre is not exactly at a walking distance from the hotel, but taxi is cheap and this should not be too daunting. The rooms are elegantly furnished and no two rooms are alike. Hotel guests have free access to a fully equipped fitness centre and a sauna. Only breakfast is served, no other meals. 19 rooms and 8 suites (singles €55, doubles €70, triples €90, suites €100-110). Prices include VAT and breakfast. AP HUD FRKGL «««« Ile de France B-3, Cara Dušana 41, tel. 636 23 82, www.iledefrance.co.yu. Situated near Novi Sad Fair in a new building. The parquet-floored rooms are furnished with balconies and the suits boast a Jacuzzi bath. The hotel feels intimate and homely, as if somebody put you up in their apartment. 14 suites (€45-66). Prices include VAT and breakfast. PRL Mediteraneo C-2, Ilije Ognjanovića 10, tel. 42 71 35, www.hotel-mediteraneo.co.yu. A cute little hotel in the very centre of the town, in a quiet street near Dunavski Park. It is quite new and the rooms are very pretty, furnished with funky and colourful items. Breakfast is served in your room or in Mediteraneo Restaurants a few steps away from the hotel. On request, the friendly staff will arrange for you the pick-up, day trips, visits to theatre and museums. 11 rooms (singles €57, doubles €78, triples €95). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRL «« Vigor A-3, Jožef Atile 2, tel. 689 44 44, fax 46 81 60, www.hotelvigor.com. A new hotel with a modern design, slightly remote from the centre of the town, situated not far from Ribarsko ostrvo. Its well-appointed rooms are bright and cosy, with stylish details, and very nice bathrooms. You may find the LCD TV set a little to high for comfort. Hotel services include laundry, sightseeing-tours upon request and breakfast specially prepared to meet any special health, dietary or religious requirements. 22 rooms and 1 suites (singles €43, doubles €57, triples €70, suites €100). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APHRKGL Guest houses Bonaca Apartments B-1, Kisačka 62a, tel. 44 66 00. A new building not far from the Railway Station. The apartments, equipped with a kitchen and a bathroom, are indifferently furnished, with a floor area ranging between 26m2 and 75m2. The hotel offers restaurant and a 24-hour room service. Note that late check-outs, after 12:00, are not tolerated and you will be charged 80% of the full rate. 22 suites (€48,5-85,5). Prices include VAT. AP Car Royal Apartments B-3, Cara Dušana 71, tel. 636 22 00, www.hotel-car.net. A new hotel, 3km from the town centre, aiming at the business traveller. The rooms are no-nonsense, modern and comfortable, each equipped with a hydro massage bath tub. Some of the rooms are in the attic, with a sloping roof. The hotel offers non-smoking rooms and room service. 11 rooms and 2 suites (singles €40, doubles €50, triples €70, suites €90). VAT not included. APHGL Filip A-2, Joakima Vujića 14, tel. (064)118 61 72. A new, decent-looking studio for two on the fifth floor of a building 3km away from the centre of the town and 1km from the Railway Station. It comes with a well-appointed kitchen, A/C, cable TV, telephone limited to local calls, towels and bed linen. Grocery store, bakeries, bank, and bus stop are at stone’s throw. 1 suite (€40). VAT not included. PR Fontana C-2, Nikole Pašića 27, tel. 661 27 60, www. restoranfontana.com. A popular restaurant in Novi Sad, famed for its traditional meat dishes, offering rooms for rent. Situated close to the town centre. The rooms are spacious, parquet-floored and well-appointed, but the décor is distastefully kitschy. Bear in mind that rooms are July - September 2008 26 where to stay Symbol key P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms 6 Animal friendly C Swimming pool atop the restaurant which is often used as the banquet or wedding hall, with live music keeping the patrons enthralled well into the night. The restaurant has a very pretty terrace with a fountain. 14 rooms (singles €35,5, doubles €42, triples €51 ). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APK Tamara B-3, Lasla Gala 26, tel. (065)543 55 43. A fine studio for three with a separate entrance, near the main town boulevard and Vojvodina sports and commercial centre. It features a complimentary mini-bar, well-appointed kitchen, A/C, cable TV, telephone limited to local calls, towels and bed linen, as well as a washing machine. 1 suite (€150). VAT not included. PG Voyager C-2, Stražilovska 16, tel. 45 37 11, www. voyagerns.co.yu. Well-furnished apartments (26-67m2) housed in a modern residential building, situated not far from the town centre. Most apartments have PCs with internet connection and some are fitted with extra long beds to accommodate tall guests. 20 suites (€56-91,5). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRHL Villa Una A-1, Avijatičarska 9, tel. 31 14 28. In a quiet part of the town, 4km from the centre. Apartments are furnished with cable TV and well-appointed kitchen. Villa Una has a lovely garden, surrounded with family houses. 6 suites (€40 per person). Prices include VAT and breakfast. APRL Zenit C-2. Zmaj Jovina 8, tel. 662 14 44, www. hotelzenit.co.yu. A small hotel in the town centre, a stone’s throw from the pedestrian zone. It is housed in an oddly shaped building, which probably accounts for the fact that most rooms differ in shape, and some do not receive sufficient sunlight. Rooms are small and clean, furnished with modern but uninspiring furniture, with floor heating and cooling systems. The breakfast room is nice, the staff is very friendly, and the hotel owns a Bayliner speedboat on the Danube which you can hire. 6 rooms and 6 suites (singles €40-80, doubles €40-80, triples €50-70, suites €70-150). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. APU6R HGL «« Hostels Bela lađa B-1, Kisačka 21, tel. 661 65 94, fax 472 51 20, www.restorannovisad.com. A popular traditional restaurant, opened in 1852, with rooms for rent. Centrally located, it offers a hostel service, 9 rooms and two shared bathrooms. There is another Bela lađa hostel on Zlatna greda 15, where rooms are decked out in wood panelling, equipped with cable TV and ensuite bathrooms. Kisačka 21: 9 rooms (singles, doubles, triples: €14-17). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. Simboli: CC, klima, restoran, pušenje, P. Zlatna greda 15: 14 rooms (doubles, triples, 4-bed dorm, 5-bed dorm: €17). Prices include VAT. Breakfast not included. APRGL Brankovo kolo C-2, Episkopa Visariona 3, tel. 42 54 41, www.hostelns.com. This large building with over 300 beds is actually a dorm, doubling as a hostel between 1 July and 25 August and between 30 December and 20 January. At a walking distance from the centre of the town. The rooms are bright and clean, with shared bathrooms. The hostel features a spacious breakfast room, basketball and volleyball courts and an internet café. 96 rooms (€15 per person). Prices include VAT and breakfast. HRKL Downtown C-2, Njegoševa 2, tel. (064)192 03 42, www.hostelnovisad.com. The first hostel in Novi Sad, with downtown location, at the main town square. It offers fine accommodation, great atmosphere, walls boldly painted in bright colours, the occasional queues in front of the bathroom being the only downside. The hostel features a kitchen, free internet access, car/bike parking. 5 rooms (singles €25, doubles €30, 6-bed dorm €11, 8-bed dorm: €10). Prices include VAT. 6RG Lazin hostel C-2, Laze Telečkog 10, (063) 44 37 03, www.lazinhostel.org. Situated in a small downtown street lined with cafés and restaurants. Its fine rooms are arranged in two levels, each with a shared bathroom, kitchen and a common room. The hostel features a bike parking room, free internet and cable TV. 6 rooms and 2 suites (singles €20, doubles €15, 4-bed dorm €13, 6-bed dorm €11, suites €40 ). VAT not included. PRL Novi Sad In Your Pocket restaurants Serbian cuisine is a reflection of the historical circumstances this country has been exposed to throughout the centuries - a combination of various culinary influences prepared in an entirely unique and original way. The food served in restaurants is healthy and completely organic - with no genetically modified products or artificial flavourings, and the portions tend to be large. Most meals are prepared with a considerable amount of meat, and served with a variety of vegetables. ‘Home-cooked’ meals tend to be more spicy. 27 Price Guide (Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €12 per person) Mid-range €€ (€7-12 per person) Cheap € (Less than €7 per person) Asian Orhideja D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress. The only place in town serving sushi. The menu features specialties from India, China, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Philippines and Japan. It has a fabulous terrace overlooking the town, and the inside is done in the oriental style with deep red walls. Waiters are friendly, but not fully acquainted with the peculiarities of the Asian cuisine on offer. 4Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 01:00. €€€. S: ABPL Chinese Dva štapića B-3, Cara Lazara 7a, tel. 45 95 24. A small and simply decorated restaurant featuring Chinese fast food. Although not exactly suited for romantic dinners, it is a great place to grab something to eat after a long walk or a shopping spree. It is interesting because it offers some dishes that are not usually found on the menus of Chinese restaurants in Europe and because you can watch Chinese cooks preparing your meal. Good and fast service. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€. ABPGS Sečuan C-2, Dunavska 16, tel. 52 96 93. The first ever Chinese restaurant in town with an unbroken tradition of quality. As implied by its name, it specialises in the Szechwan cuisine. The waiters are well-trained and attentive and the interior is typically Chinese, accented with many red details. Be sure to try rice cookies topped with dark chocolate. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. A BPS to accompany your drink. In the evening the whole place transforms into a club featuring gigs and DJ events, exotic cocktails and Cuban cigars. There are 3 PCs to surf the Internet. An ideal place for those who feel uncomfortable if there are no TV screens in sight. 4Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€. APRE Indonesian Surabaya, Primorska 26, tel. 641 34 00. The only Indonesian restaurant in Serbia. The interior is decorated in the Indonesian style, with a smart summer terrace (Novi Sad style). The menu offers Indonesian as well as Chinese dishes, the specialty of the house being the algae salad. The restaurant was established 14 year ago, and its popularity has never waned. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€. A BPGSU6L International Fusion Jatak B-3, Danila Kiša 13, tel. 661 34 33. This is just the place for jaded palates who crave rich and rare dainties on their plates, such as veal carpaccio with goose liver and porcini mushrooms. Dishes are exquisitely prepared, and a bit expensive for the local fare. Its rather understated décor seems to imply that nothing should distract diners from their food. 4Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€€. AP Babareebaa B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 88, tel. 42 17 20. Restaurant, café and club all in one place with a modern streamlined décor. It is part of an international chain of restaurants bearing this name. Its versatile offer includes breakfast menu, kids menu and various munchies Arhiv C-2, Ilije Ognjanovića 16, tel. 472 21 76. One of the best restaurants in town, housed in the basement of a downtown building. A combination of wood and brick punctuated with wrought-iron details provides for understated elegance of the interior. It consists of three rooms which differ in size, making it an ideal setting for business lunches and intimate dinners alike. The menu may not be copious, but is guaranteed to lure you back. Even the food arrangement is a cut above the standard offer: the leek and mushroom soup is served in a scooped-out loaf of bread, and succulent char-grilled chicken breast wrapped in bacon and stuffed with prunes comes with peach sauce. There are dishes, specialties of the house, which must be ordered three hours ahead of coming to the restaurant. The only down side to the restaurant we can think of is that the over-zealous waiters would sometimes bring the main course before you have had the time to fully savour the hors d’oeuvre. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€€. ABPSE Chicken Tikka B-3, Dimitrija Tucovića 3, tel. 45 30 52. Located bellow the north side of the town stadium and specialising, as may be gathered from its name, in chicken dishes. The chicken soup is delicious and if you don’t mind getting your fingers greasy, try grilled chicken wings (€5). In addition to chicken, you can have dishes prepared with other kinds of meat, and various salads. It is quite popular, particularly for family outings. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €. ABPS Čerčil (Churchill) C-2, Nikole Pašića 25, tel. 52 51 32. Hugely popular with the locals for business and family lunches alike. The pleasing interior consists of several differently decorated rooms and a greenhouse. The service is excellent Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking B Terrace 6 Animal friendly July - September 2008 28 restaurants and the food is good and varied, the bread is made in-house, but pizzas are a bit of a flop. Meat lovers will be delighted with the T-bone steak. Strangely enough, the kitchen is open only until 21:30 so it is not a place for late dinners. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€€. APSR Garden C-2, Laze Telečkog 5, tel. 661 05 60. A very extensive menu will cater for any taste with its breakfast offer, sandwiches, appetizers, pizzas, salads and various pastas. The specialty of the house are dishes from 13 different world cuisines named after famous painters who were nationals of those countries. The selection of dishes will have you coming back for more. The restaurant offers happy hour with 20% off food and drinks between 18:00 and 19:00. The interior is decked out with posters of Frida Kahlo’s and Diego Rivera’s paintings and murals, and a part of the restaurant is reserved for exhibitions of work by young artists. In the evening, the restaurant terrace operates as a club hosting gigs or DJ performances. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. €€. ABPGU, takeout, R6E Greenich C-2, Vase Stajića 27, tel. 472 16 08. Isolated from the noise and bustle of the city, this stylish restaurant provides a great setting to enjoy excellent food at leisure. The varied menu features meat dishes, seafood and fish, pastas, salads, vegetarian dishes and kids menu. The wine list is extensive and you can order some of its fine wines by the glass. The combination of wood and stone is elegantly complemented by crystal chandeliers. There is no dress code, but you may feel out of place wearing shorts and flipflops. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00. €€€. APB Pulitzer B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 81/X, tel. (063)47 84 47. Situated on the 10th floor of a commercial building with a great view over the town. Its position and modern interior attract business people and make it an ideal venue for cocktails, promotional and other events. This should not discourage you from trying their specialties, served in reasonable portions by international standards, and there is also an array of macrobiotic and vegetarian dishes. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€€. AP Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking B Terrace 6 Animal friendly people in Serbia are easily swayed by the generosity of the portions. 4Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€. ABP takeout. Pasha C-2, Pionirska 1, tel. 661 61 89. The restaurant offers Italian and international dishes. The gnocchi and pastas are all made in-house, and pizza is baked in a woodfired oven. Fast and discreet service, modern décor, a good selection of wine and rich menu attract many business people. If you get hungry whilst walking round the Danube Park, this place should be your first choice, and if you want to have dinner, you should book ahead. 4Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. AP Pizzerias Dva anđela C-2, Laze Telečkog 14, tel. (063)113 45 67. Good vibes and good food: meat dishes, pastas and pizzas, risottos, delicious desserts. Bread and pizzas are baked in a wood-fired oven. One serious shortcoming is that you cannot quite relax on the hard wooden backless chairs, which make the ambiance rather reminiscent of a primary school canteen. A part of the ceiling is made of glass, so you can watch the rain fall, and the roof terrace would be fantastic were it not for the chairs. 4Open 09:00 - 02:00. €€. A PB Kuća mala C-2, Laze Telečkog 4, tel. 42 27 28. Offers more than 40 different kinds of pizza made to chef’s original recipes, featuring uncommon ingredients and lots of fresh vegetables. An idyllic atmosphere, just like in a movie - nice and smiling guests, nice and smiling staff, nice music… Authentic décor of a typical house in the 19th century Vojvodina. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €€. A BPSR Mačak C-2, Beogradska 19, tel. 43 32 00. Located across the Danube in a beautiful setting of an old building with Petrovaradin Fortress as a backdrop. Most diners come here for pizzas, although the restaurant offers quite a selection of various Italian dishes, including light salads suitable for Italian Mediteraneo C-2, Ise Bajića 8, tel. 52 63 22. A very stylish Italian Trattoria only a few steps from the pedestrian zone. Colourful walls and wrought-iron ornaments give this ambiance a cosy feel. The menu features a fairly large selection of Italian dishes, some of which are cooked to perfection and some would not exactly pass muster in Italy (which does not mean they are bad). You may not always depend on the friendly staff for recommendation as most Novi Sad In Your Pocket restaurants vegetarians. The attentive staff will suggest a local wine to accompany the meal. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. Ptakeout Pomodoro rosso C-2, Nikole Pašića 14, tel. 42 40 23. A romantic place a stone’s throw from the town centre, serving regional specialities from the Italian town of Modena (incidentally, a sister city of Novi Sad). It boasts the largest selection of pizzas in town and an excellent selection of Italian and local wines. The nice décor and friendly staff create a most inviting ambiance. The prices, a little above the average, are practically the only down side. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Closed Sun. €€€. AP SREL 2 Price Guide (Based on a good meal without wine) Expensive €€€ (More than €12 per person) Mid-range €€ (€7-12 per person) Cheap € (Less than €7 per person) all over the world stacked on shelves 5m high, which line two of the restaurant walls. You can select your wine from the upper shelves and the attentive waiters will get it for you using the ladders conveniently supplied for that purpose. The restaurant offers rooms for rent, so if you have gorged yourself on all that great food and wine and feel somnolent, here is a place to take a nap. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. €€. A PREL Gusan (The Gander) C-2, Zmaj Jovina 4, tel. 42 55 70. Housed in the basement of a 19th century building (one of the first 4 buildings in town on two floors), this place is something between a restaurant and a pub. It boasts a lovely shady terrace fenced off in the manner of traditional Serbian villages and offers a selection of beers and local dishes at more than reasonable prices. In the evening, it often hosts gigs and DJ performances and draws sizeable crowds. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00. €. E Lipa C-2, Svetozara Miletića 7-9, tel. 661 52 59. One of the oldest restaurants in town, which serves authentic regional dishes, particularly those typical of Vojvodina, at budget prices. The interior has not been intentionally designed to look retro, it looks exactly as it did 50 years ago, only shabbier. The staff is polite, if a little slow, providing a fitting complement to the ambiance. The menu is based on meat dishes, but vegetarians could manage by ordering vegetable soup, some of the side dishes or grilled mushrooms, as well as a fresh vegetable salad. 4Open 07:00 - 23:00. €. ABS Ognjište B-3, Dimitrija Tucovića 3, tel. 45 05 94. Savoury local specialties, some of which cannot be found anywhere else. The interior, with its stone walls and massive wooden tables is reminiscent of a dim lit mountain lodge. The rustic décor is punctuated by numerous old items from country houses. The portions may be surprisingly large so you should check with the waiters (dressed in folk costumes) what you are getting, because if you go as a couple and you are not ravenously hungry, you may share the main course to make room for the soup and the dessert. Be sure to try teletina ispod sača - succulent veal roasted under an iron bell on coal and ashes. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. AP Osam tamburaša D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. 42 11 44. One of the three restaurants on the terrace of Petrovaradin Fortress with magnificent view over the town. It offers a standard selection of local specialties, most of which are delicious, with occasional flops, usually with predictable menu fillers. You should not miss fabulous white polenta with kajmak, paired with ćevapi which is merely adequate. Waiters could use some professional training. The toilet is not up to the standard the restaurant aspires to reach. 4Open 10:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 01:00. €€. ABPGSREL Serbian Astal šaren C-2, Mite Ružića 4, tel. 52 80 04. A tiny restaurant with authentic Serbian cuisine and ambiance, its tables covered with check tablecloths. The short menu caters for meat fans, offering various grilled dishes and fresh vegetable salads. The only home-made dish is a veal soup which is a must order. The place is easy on the pocket and the dishes are quickly served, so it is far better to come here than waste your money away on fast food. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Closed Sun. €. BPS Balkan ekspres C-3, Dr Vase Savića 3a, tel. 635 07 62. A proper Serbian ale-hose for serious gourmets! Gargantuan portions of local cuisine loaded with lip-smacking calories. This is the place to try exotic dishes such as teleća glava u škembetu (calf’s head with entrails) or škembići u saftu (tripe in sauce) and even vegetarians are not neglected. The food is copiously washed down with local wine or draft beer. The restaurant is made of wood and thatch, decorated with musical instruments hanging from the ceiling. The best way to get there is by taxi, as it is rather difficult to find. 4Open 09:30 - 23:00. €€. ABPSEL Bela lađa B-1, Kisačka 21, tel 661 65 94. One of the oldest restaurants in town, delivering genuine Serbian hospitality. It serves large portions of local and international dishes, and the offer includes kid, veal and lamb roast. This place is known for a collection of 2000 bottles of wines from Local Specialties For the main course, most restaurants in Novi Sad will offer roštilj - different types of barbecued meat cuts served with finely chopped onion. Although many world nations prepare their meat in a similar style, Serbs have managed to elevate barbecued meat to an art form, and nowhere else will you have the opportunity to try such specialties. The meat needs to be primed in a particular way before it can be tossed on the grill, typically heated with beech charcoal. Barbecue chefs are a class of their own, and the best of the bunch come from the south-Serbian town of Leskovac. Types of barbecued meat include ćevapčići (cylinder-shaped minced meat), pljeskavice (similar to a hamburger), kobasice (a special, spicy type of sausage for the barbecue), ražnjići (chunks of meat on a skewer), vešalice (boneless pork loin, cut lengthwise), chicken liver rolled in strips of bacon, etc. If you order the Mixed meat, you will get a little of all the above specialties on one plate. If you order the leskovački voz (Leskovac Train), you will get the same combination, but on separate plates that will arrive one by one, so that the various types of meat stay warm. July - September 2008 30 restaurants Plava frajla C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 661 36 75. A very popular restaurant, famous for its delicious dishes. Finding a table at lunch-time on Sundays is a mission impossible. The quirky interior decorated in Vojvodina style features chairs hanging from the ceiling (avoid only if you have a phobia of chairs falling on your head). A great place to try authentic local dishes. You will be served in-house made hot pita bread with every dish. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€. ABPESUL Kućerak kod česme B-3, Ribarsko ostrvo bb, tel. 50 05 20. Situated on the Fishing Island, boasting a fine open terrace with a protective roof and a splendid view over the Danube. Its interior is also quite nice. The menu predominantly features freshwater fish specialties, and there are several meat dishes and a kids menu. You shouldn’t worry about bones in the fish chowder - they have been removed. Incidentally, this is the only place in town where you can order escargot. A band of tambura (long necked lute instruments) players performs on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €. AB PGSE6L Parobrod D-2, Petrovaradinski kej bb, tel. (063) 59 89 98. A floating restaurant, specialising in freshwater fish, situated against the backdrop of Petrovaradin Fortress, right next to the bridge. The massive wooden tables are made in the shape of a boat, and large windows enjoy view of Novi Sad on the opposite bank of the Danube. They serve fish chowder in small cauldrons, and the specialty of the house is catfish stew (bones removed). The wild carp caught in the river (far tastier than the carp bred in fish farms) are kept in a cage in the Danube right next to the restaurant, as fresh as can be. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. ABPGE Ski bar B-3, Ribarsko ostrvo bb (Fishing Island), tel. 225 22 51. A floating restaurant with a large open terrace where you can rest your eyes on the Danube and the drifting boats, reclining on deck-chairs, drink in your hand. A favourite with young people. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a tropical bar on a beach, but be ware of relentless aerial assaults of blood-thirsty mosquitoes in summer. The specialty is the smoked carp (great taste, but slightly on the salty side, calling for generous helpings of wine). The best way to get there is by taxi. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. €€. ABPRSE6L Seafood Aqua Doria C-3, Kamenički put bb, tel. 643 31 11. Excellent location (against the backdrop of Petrovaradin Fortress, next to the bridge) and good food have made this floating restaurant very popular. The specialty of the house is fish stew, and the offer includes freshwater fish prepared in a variety of ways, grilled meat, and some interesting local specialties such as svadbarski kupus (cabbage slow-cooked with meat and bones of all kinds). The interior is decorated in simple and rustic, real country style, and there is an inviting summer terrace with a protective roof on the shore. People come here to while away long nights with music and wine and to savour their food at leisure. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. €€. ABPRSE6L Fish&zeleniš C-2, Skerlićeva 2, tel. 45 20 00. A miniature restaurant offering fish&chips, mussels, zucchini, polenta... something to please everyone’s palate. It is best to book in ahead because it is very popular and always packed (there is no need to book several weeks ahead, a call earlier in the day would do). Great service and scents of potted herbs used to prepare the dishes give it an intimate, relaxed feel. 4Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. €€. ABPGSE Novi Sad In Your Pocket CaFÉs Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking B Terrace 6 Animal friendly stylish furniture and parquet floor. There are occasional live music performances adding to the rarefied atmosphere, so don’t expect wild parties. It is a perfect place to wind down with a Cuban cigar and a glass of cognac or pleasantly surprise the significant other who likes secret hideaways known only to insiders. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. APE Trčika C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 14, tel. (064)112 45 88. A café that will certainly draw your attention as it is housed in an old tram carriage which once upon a time, in early 20th century, took bathers to the Štrand beach on the Danube. Its authentic interior and the strategic position at the very beginning of the pedestrian zone is very appealing to those who like to sip their drink whilst leisurely observing whatever is going on in the street and passing comments. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. B6 Vremeplov (Time Machine) B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 96, tel. 661 18 55. A large selection of cakes, desserts, coffee varieties and drinks. Non-smokers are not advised to order a ‘Humphrey Bogart’ featuring a short espresso, a Camel (the regular, unfiltered variety) and a match. Although housed in a rather new building, it is furnished in the early 20th century style, its décor punctuated by authentic items from that period. You can also enjoy your dessert in the lovely greenhouse. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. ABPUR6L 31 Absolut C-2, Zmaj Jovina 12, tel. 42 24 26. Situated on the first floor of an old downtown building. Its original interior has an intimate feel, as if you were in someone’s apartment packed with sofas and coffee tables. The music is subtle enough for conversation and there is a good choice of quality wines, cocktails and teas. Popular with patrons of different ages. 4Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. ABGE6L Bookstore-café Nublu C-2, Žarka Zrenjanina 12, tel. 52 53 65. A café, gallery and bookstore, all in one. Very interesting ambiance complemented by subtle lighting and airy music, where you can leaf through various books over a cup of coffee or buy a painting of an up-and-coming artist as a souvenir from Novi Sad (they have really good paintings). 4Open 09:00 - 23:00. BG6E Cuba-Libre C-2, Laze Telečkog 13, tel. (065)270 76 86. Café & Gallery drawing happy and smiling people who love Cuban, Brazilian and Reggae music. If you are down, this is the place to cheer you up. The bar with an excellent selection of rum and exotic cocktails is on the lower level, where the partying goes on. The gallery upstairs, furnished with plush chairs, is a perfect spot to wind down and have a chat. Occasional live percussion performances bring the house down. 4Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. BE Fićkić C-2, Zmaj Jovina 22, tel. 661 50 88. A tiny (literally) small café in a passage-way, hugely popular on account of its lovely summer terrace. A perfect spot for a lazy afternoon coffee after a tour of the town. They also serve draft beer and fruit cocktails. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. BP6UE Frida C-2, Dunavska 10/I, tel. (064) 996 97 90. A café on the first floor of a building in a passage-way, consisting of four rooms painted in bright colours, and doubling as a gallery. Features occasional poetry evenings, art performances and various promotional events. Frida attracts quirky people, artists, and those who like to hang out with such crowd. Good music and casual atmosphere. Happy hour each day 13:00 to 17:00. 4Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PE6 Greenet C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 42 35 57. A branch of a Belgrade café chain, located on the first floor of Bazar shopping mall. Popular with Novi Sad chic girls taking a break from arduous shopping. The specialty of the house is the mocha. Take-away coffee is also served in heat-conserving cups, and you can also purchase various blends of ground coffee to prepare at home. You may skip the dessert. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00. AP Hedonist C-2, Zmaj Jovina 26/I, tel. 52 94 38. This is a sophisticated spot - you wouldn’t want to go there wearing shorts and sneakers. The interior features crimson walls, July - September 2008 32 nightliFe Almost everyone who visits Novi Sad is taken by its laid-back vibe. People are easy-going and known throughout Serbia for their philosophy of eating, drinking and living in the slow lane. No wonder, then, that its night scene lacks the hectic buzz of Belgrade nightlife. But fear not, you will find plenty to enjoy. Those who like clubbing will have terrific time on Petrovaradin Fortress and you cannot go wrong if you visit small Laze Telečkog street in the downtown pedestrian zone, packed with cafés, restaurants and clubs. Baltazar B-2, Novosadskog sajma 35 (Park Hotel), tel. (064)927 77 77. Probably the best place in town for house music lovers. Its minimalist interior design is nicely complemented by a huge bar, almost 15m long, staffed with great bartenders. Club queues are a frequent sight, and members and regular patrons are given precedence. Don’t even think of trying to get in with sneakers or a sweatshirt. Although it is an exclusive spot in every respect, its prices are moderate, you can get a glass of whiskey for 2 EUR. 4Open 23:00 - 04:00. EL Dvorište (Yard) Night Bar C-2, Uspenska 18, tel. 52 65 86. This bar, proud to have 23 years of uninterrupted work on the third shift, is a hard rock and heavy metal hangout. Beer is the beverage of choice and gigs are fairly frequent. You need not have any security concerns, the guests are very friendly and there are no incidents. 4Open 22:00 - 03:00, Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. BEL Foxtrot B-2, Futoška 23, tel. 662 29 04. This wood panelled café is firm favourite with jazz, rock and blues lovers. Over the day it is a pleasant spot for a sip of drink whilst reading newspapers, and in the evening the place gets swinging, its air thick with smoke. Gigs on weekends. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. BP pušači, 6RE Giardino C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 489 87 40. A large club with modern décor on the roof-top of the Bazar shopping mall. Its two stylish open terraces enjoy stunning views over the town. It is a perfect place for a relaxed coffee to mark the end of a shopping spree or to start off a night of club hopping. If you’re not into club hopping, this is one place where you’ll want to stay put, particularly on evenings with live music. And if you get hungry, you can order a variety of light Italian dishes or some dessert. 4Open 09:00 - 01:00. ABPURE Jelisavetin bastion (Elisabeth’s Bastion) D -2 , Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. (064)640 79 76. An extraordinary venue consisting of several rooms with arched roofs, where cannons were positioned once upon a time. You are rather impressed even before you step inside - the access to the club is in narrow and beautifully lit hallways leading away from the parking in front of the Art Academy. The venue is laid out in the way that allows for different Symbol key P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas O Casino R Internet A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking B Terrace 6 Animal friendly Novi Sad In Your Pocket nightliFe music to be played in different parts of the club and there is a large space in front, hosting terrific parties in summer with revellers still dancing at sunrise. 4Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. BEL London club C-2, Laze Telečkog 15, tel. 42 18 81. Brick walls and floors, wooden tables and the Union Jack. A large selection of draft beer (including Guinness) and spirits. You get to hear the 80s and 90s chart hits and rock gigs are hosted regularly. It is not uncommon for girls to end up dancing on the bar. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BURE6 every night, featuring local pop and rock or global mainstream hits. The bar and the stage are on the lower level, and there are comfy chairs on the upper level to provide a quieter place to chill. While there are no wild parties, there is plenty of good laid-back fun. 4Open 08:00 - 01:00. PER Skipper, Ribarsko ostrvo bb. The club is located on a boat moored by the Fishing Island (don’t try to get there on foot, take a taxi). As you dance to electronic music on its glass-walled upper deck, you will enjoy a great view of the Danube and the Freedom Bridge. The dance floor is surrounded with high tables and bar stools. The best parties are on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 4Open 23:00 - 03:00. PE 33 Martha’s Pub C-2, Laze Telečkog 3, tel. 61 10 38. You will recognise it by the quirky sign above the entrance saying ‘God save the pumpkins’. Contagious positive vibes and relaxed atmosphere. One of the best spots to go out for a drink even if you are on your own, because you will soon get the feeling that all guests are part of one large happy crowd. If you are bold enough, try medovača - honey flavoured brandy. 4Open 10:00 - 01:00. B Muzej (Museum) D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, (064)640 79 76. Located in the lower part of the town Museum. Its wooden flooring, stone bar and semi-circular arches lit by disco lights make it the most elegant disco in Novi Sad. Each night will feature a different theme, including gigs, DJ’s events and retro music. The best time to visit on a weekend is around 01:00. The prices are a little higher than usual. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. PEL Pipping C-2, Katolička porta 5. The oldest club in town, known for its fantastic parties. The low ceiling and the ice bar will be the first things to catch your attention. The club often hosts various concerts, DJ sessions, performances, shows and your impression of the place may vary depending on the event. Its relaxed atmosphere makes it the perfect place to meet someone and engage in a bit of dalliance. 4Open 21:00 - 04:00. PE Ritmo Latino C-2, Sremska 9, tel. 52 80 95. As its name suggests, this place features hot Latino rhythms bringing even the would-be wallflowers out onto the floor. Fridays are usually reserved for RNB & Hip-Hop Night, and Saturdays for D.J. performances or gigs. Very popular hangout, with nice interior decorated with flags from all over the world. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BGPER Route 66 B-3, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5, tel. 635 07 90. A popular club, operating as a café by day, housed in an airy, warehouse-feeling venue spread over two levels. It is spacious enough to support sizeable crowds drawn by pop, rock, jazz and blues gigs (something to suit everyone’s taste) which start around 23:00. The club sometimes features DJ events. 4Open 07:30 - 01:00. BRPEL RST Club B-3, Bulevar despota Stefana 5, tel: 46 89 76. A nice and unpretentious spot known for live events almost Sterija C-2, Pozorišni trg 1, tel. 50 09 40. One of the more popular clubs in town. Located in the building of the Serbian National Theatre, it is favourite with the actors. In daytime, you can chill out in the large terrace, but in the evening, the main events take place inside. There are live performances by local pop and rock bands almost every night. It does not seem that too much care has been given to the interior design and the impression is further marred by a plasma TV hanging on a wall and featuring a local TV station. It is a universal truth that TV sets in cafés have an uncanny way of absorbing attention and killing the conversation. 4Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 03:00. BPE Wheels, Natošićeva 4, tel. 52 25 57. The only all jazz club in town. Like any other jazz club, it draws people who come to listen to good music and weigh up the performers, and who could not care less about the décor of the club or the outfit of its patrons. Apart from the mainstream jazz, on certain nights the club features French gitan jazz, electro jazz, and even fado and flamenco performances. 4Open 19:00 - 01:00. PE July - September 2008 34 what to see Essentials Downtown - pedestrian zone C-2. The heart of the old town features almost all must-see attractions in Novi Sad. The pedestrian zone consists of Zmaj Jovina, Pašićeva, Svetozara Miletića, Laze Telečkog, part of Dunavska streets, Katolička porta and Trg slobode squares. The Freedom Square (Trg slobode) has been the stage for most significant events, whether cultural or political. It is also the usual rendezvous point and the man place for feeding fat pigeons. Photo Ivona Ivanovic The square is dominated by two buildings facing one another: City Hall built in 1895 (an exact copy of the City Hall in Graz) and the Name of Mary Roman Catholic Church known as the Cathedral, built in 1895 in the neo-gothic style. The square is encircled by the ‘lead soldier’ building from 1909 (dubbed so after the sculpture of an armoured soldier carrying a halberd, perched on the top of the building), Bank of Vojvodina building (erstwhile Grand Hotel Mayer) and the long two-floor building of Vojvodina Hotel from 1746 (the oldest hotel in town). A monument to Svetozar Miletić, Novi Sad mayor and a champion of political rights of the Serbs in the 19th century occupies the centre of the square. From there, the pedestrian zone further stretches to Zmaj Jovina Street, the main promenade and the commercial centre of the town. The street is lined with numerous openterrace cafés and pastry shops, favourite with those who love to sit back and idly watch the world go by. A monument to Jovan Jovanović Zmaj (Zmaj - Dragon), Serbian doctor and poet, loved for his nursery rhymes, is at the far end of the street. He is also known as the author of the first postcard in the world (sent from Vienna in 1870, featuring a dragon, what else). The street ends with the building of the Bishop’s Palace, which is the see of the Bačka Episcopacy of the Serbian Orthodox Church (built in 1901), with the Cathedral Church (Saborna) right behind. The corner of Zmaj Jovina and Dunavska streets is the location of the oldest preserved house in Novi Sad (1720) known as ‘At the White Lion’s’, which nowadays houses the Irish Pub. Dunavska street, also packed with shops and cafés, leads towards the Danube Park and the Danube river. At the beginning of the street, you can see one of the pockmarks on the town face - the cannon ball which remained buried in the building exterior walls (where it landed during the 1849 shelling of the town). A characteristic feature of these old streets are numerous passageways and courtyards concealing many restaurants, cafés and boutiques, so plunge in and enjoy. The latest town attraction is the small street of Laze Telečkog, full of cafés, bars and restaurants. Photo Bojan Hohnjec Štrand C-3, on the Danube bank at the far end of Bulevar Oslobođenja. Štrand, a lido on the Danube is the focal point of entertainment for all ages during the hot summer days. As many as 15,000 people come daily to the lido: old men playing chess, families enjoying a picnic, men and women indulging in a bit of dalliance, beach babes and posers who come to see and be seen, and anyone looking for good fun in the sun. Set against the background of a large park with deep shade, this 700m long lido has regular beach facilities, including toilets, showers, 700 changing booths rented out for the entire season, security and lifeguard services, emergency paramedics, several cafés and restaurants. In summer, Štrand hosts numerous events and sports competitions. You need to be careful when you swim in the Danube because of its strong currents that may quickly overtake you if you are not a good swimmer. The water purity is checked and while it is safe for swimming, it is not safe to drink, so keep your mouth closed as you swim. 4Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. Admission 35 dinars, free after 19:00. Novi Sad In Your Pocket what to see 35 Jewish Novi Sad Jewish community Novi Sad B-2, Jevrejska 11, tel. 42 38 82. The Jewish community of Novi Sad was allowed to build its first synagogue in the early 18th century. The local Jewish community belonged culturally to the Hungarian Jewry. Only about a quarter of the more than 4,000 Jews of Novi Sad survived the Holocaust that followed the German invasion of Yugoslavia in 1941 and the annexation of Novi Sad to Hungary. Over 800 Jews of Novi Sad - men, women and children of all ages - were murdered during massacres conducted by the Hungarian police against Jews and Serbs in January 1942. In May 1944, the synagogue of Novi Sad served as an arrest house for the Jews of Novi Sad and it was from there that they were deported to the Nazi extermination camps. The synagogue was consecrated again in 1945 when it became the focal point of the revived Jewish life in the city. The Jewish population of Novi Sad dwindled further as many members of the local community chose to immigrate to Israel and other countries in the 1950’s. There were an estimated 400 Jews in Novi Sad in the early years of the 21st century. Synagogue B -2, Jevrejska 11. One of Novi Sad landmarks This impressive building in the style of Hungarian secession was completed in 1909. As the Jewish community no longer could support the costs of maintenance, in 1991 it was leased to the city for a period of twenty five years. Taking advantage of the fine acoustics of the synagogue building, the city, having restored the interior, decided to use it as a concert hall for classic and other music events. The Jewish community, nevertheless, is able use the synagogue whenever it wishes, as they do each year, for celebrating major Jewish holidays. Petrovaradin Fortress D-2. One of the largest fortresses in Europe. It was built and rebuilt between 1692 and 1780, its design based on the system of fortification developed by French Marquis de Vauban. The fortress covers an area of 112 hectares, and has 13 gates and 16km of underground passages spread over 4 levels. Owing to its size, thick walls and 400 cannons, it was considered unconquerable and earned the name of the ‘Gibraltar on the Danube’. The erstwhile barracks and underground passages are nowadays converted into the premises of the Museum of the City and numerous art ateliers, galleries, and artisan workshops. The terrace of the fortress, by the Clock Tower, boasts splendid views of the town. The clock on the Tower is unique in that the big hand tells hours and the small one minutes. This was allegedly done so that the boatmen travelling on the Danube could see the time from a long distance. The clock is slow when it is cold and fast when it is hot, so people have dubbed it a ‘drunken clock’. The fortress features several restaurants and night clubs and it is famous for EXIT - the best music festival in Europe 2007. Were it not for the scarcity of garbage bins and rather random park cleaning service, it would have been perfect. You may get to the top plateau of the fortress by car, just follow the signs for Leopold Hotel. If on your way up you should see a lonely vehicle and some commotion inside, don’t worry, with the crime rate so small as in Novi Sad, that must be an amorous couple, but give it a wide berth anyway. The long arched passage is too narrow for two-way traffic, so do follow the instructions by the officers placed at its ends, who communicate the arrival of vehicles to one another over the radio set. You can get to the fortress by bus Nº3, taxi, or take a leisurely walk, because it is not too far. Photo Aleksandar Plackov July - September 2008 36 what to see Historic Churches When you visit churches and other religious buildings, you are expected to behave respectfully and speak quietly. Churches are open throughout the day and you can enter even during a service, but try not to interrupt it or draw attention to yourself. You are not allowed to enter wearing shorts, flip-flops, a mini skirt, with your belly exposed... Women are not allowed in the altar area behind the iconostasis. Taking photos with permission only. St. Nicholas Church C-2, Nikolajevska porta. Built in the baroque style in 1730, it is the oldest Orthodox church in Novi Sad. The original decorations were destroyed in the 1849 shelling of Novi Sad. The sons of Mileva and Albert Einstein were baptised in this church. The Cathedral Orthodox Church of Saint George (Saborna) C-2, Pašićeva. The Saborna Church was built in the baroque style in 1734. Heavily damaged in the 1849 shelling, it was renovated in 1880. The beautiful iconostasis was done by famous Serbian painter Paja Jovanović. The cross in the churchyard is the oldest preserved monument in Novi Sad, dating from the 18th century. Parks & Gardens The Danube Park C-2. The main town park and the loveliest. Once there was a fen overgrown with reeds on its site, which was developed into a park in 1895. Today there is a smallish lake in the heart of the park, which has a tiny island in its middle and ducks and swans are gliding in the lake. The park boasts over 250 species of plants, numerous sculptures, and part of it is turned into a kids playground. PHOTO Ivan Ivanovic Museums The Pavle Beljanski Memorial Collection C-2, Trg Galerija 2, tel. 472 99 66. The legacy of Pavle Beljanski, a diplomat and art collector. The collection features paintings by finest Serbian artists of the first half of the 20th century (including Nadežda Petrović, Sava Šumanović and Petar Lubarda) as well as sculptures, drawings and tapestries. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Museum of Vojvodina C-2, Dunavska 35-37, tel. 42 05 66, www.muzejvojvodine.org.yu. A permanent display of archaeological, historical and ethnographic artefacts relevant to Vojvodina, dating from the Palaeolithic to the middle of the 20th century. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 100 dinars, children and students 50 dinars. TIC Gallery The Name of Mary Parish Church - The Cathedral C-2, Trg slobode. A Roman Catholic church, built in 1895 in the neo-gothic style on the foundation of an old Roman Catholic church. It has stained-glass windows and the altar made of carved wood from Tyrol. The church sometimes schedules concerts on the organs. TIC Gallery  The Novi Sad telephone code is +381 21 Novi Sad In Your Pocket City Museum of Novi Sad D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, upper plateau, tel. 43 31 45. A permanent exhibition of what to see fine and applied arts from 1748 to the middle of the 20th century. It also features an archaeological collection of artefacts from the prehistoric era, Roman period and the Middle Ages. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. City Museum of Novi Sad - Gunboat Exhibition Space (Topovnjača) D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. 43 31 45. An exhibition put on by the department for cultural history, featuring a selection from the collections of fine and applied arts assembled over the past five decades. All the artefacts on display are related to the people and events from the history of Novi Sad from 1748 to the middle of the 20th century. This collection will show you how people used to live in Novi Sad. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. only a part of the passageways, 1km long. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Organized tours only. City Museum of Novi Sad - Foreign Art Collection C-2, Dunavska 29, tel. 55 12 39. A permanent display of Doctor Branko Ilić’s legacy, consisting of the Western European schools from the Renaissance to the 20th century, as well as applied arts items. 4Open 09:00 - 17:00, Closed Mon. Admission 100 dinars, children 50 dinars. 37 Out of Town Fruška Gora Mountain. A lonely mountain in the gentle Pannonian Plain, not far from Novi Sad. It spreads about 80 km lengthwise east to west and about 12-15 km north to south. The highest peak is Crveni Čot at 539. This lovely mountain enjoys protection by the state, as it has been proclaimed a national park. Pastures, orchards and vineyards adorn its slopes, and the higher regions are covered with dense deciduous forests (the largest linden community in Europe) providing shelter for various animals, such as deer, doe, mouflon, jackal, boar and lynx. Fruška Gora attracts everyone who loves beautiful landscapes, a swim in the mountain lake, fishing or hunting, picking mushrooms, mountaineering, visiting monasteries or wine tasting... You can also see vestiges of several fortifications and other archaeological sites. Walking trails are several kilometres long and well marked. TIC Gallery City Museum of Novi Sad - Underground Military Galleries D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, tel. 43 31 45. Don’t miss out on one of the largest networks of underground passages in Europe. The system of underground passages (galleries) has 16km of tunnels spread over four levels, with as many as 12,000 loopholes. Visitors are permitted to view PHOTO Ivan Ivanovic TIC Gallery Fruška Gora monasteries Founded between the 12th and 15th centuries, orthodox monasteries were the heart of the spiritual and cultural life of Serbs during the Turkish occupation. Notable persons from Serbian history lie buried in Krušedol Monastery: Despot Đurađ Branković, King Milan Obrenović, Princess Ljubica, Patriarch Arsenije III Čarnojević... Only 16 monasteries out of 35 have been preserved to this day - most were ravaged and looted during the 2nd World War and they enjoy UNESCO July - September 2008 38 what to see protection (which did not stop NATO forces from damaging six monasteries in the 1999 air campaign against Serbia). Sremski Karlovci. A small town on the Danube bank, some 6km away from Novi Sad. It is rightly called a town-museum, due to its remarkably preserved town nucleus in the baroque style, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. You can make a tour of all the attractions on foot. The first mention of this settlement dates back from 1308. In 1713, when the see of the Orthodox Metropolitan Bishop moved to Karlovci, it became the spiritual and cultural centre of Serbs in the 18th and 19th centuries. The first Serbian grammar school opened in Karlovci in 1791 and still is functional. You can also see the Patriarchal Palace (displaying artefacts from the treasury of the Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church) orthodox churches (Cathedral, Lower and Upper Churches), a Roman Catholic church, Museum of the City, City Hall (Magistrat) from whose balcony Serbian Vojvodina was declared in 1848, a pharmacy in Straser house (from early 19th century, still functioning), ‘Four Lions’ fountain (the legend says that whoever drinks from the fountain will come back to Sremski Karlovci some day). By all means visit the museum of honey and sample wines in wine cellars. Sremski Karlovci is famous for its authentic liqueur wine, Bermet, rumoured to have been enjoyed by those on the Titanic. If you get hungry, pick one of the restaurants featuring Serbian cuisine: A Small House in Srem (Kućerak u Sremu), Four Lions or the Danube fish restaurant. Sremski Karlovic hosts various events throughout the year - ‘Brankovo kolo’ (festival of poetry), grape harvest celebration, art colonies... TIC Gallery Guided tours of Fruška Gora and Sremski Karlovci: Elnostours C-2, Maksima Gorkog 10, tel. 52 82 44. Magelan Co. C-2, Zmaj Jovina 23, tel. 472 40 88. PHOTO Ivan Ivanovic Novi Sad In Your Pocket Mail & Phones Posting a letter The postal code for Novi Sad is 21000. If you have stamps, you can pop your letters and postcards into a post box (post boxes come in different sizes and colours, but are all marked with logo Pošta) or leave them at the post office. The price of a standard letter for delivery in Serbia is 20 dinars, and for delivery worldwide 46 dinars (regardless of the destination). International mail (other than standard letters) is delivered to the post office unsealed, to allow for customs inspection if necessary. 3 Telenor C-2, Modena 1-3, www.telenor.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun. Vip mobile C-2, Zmaj Jovina 16, www.vipmobile.rs. 4Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun. Post Post office C-2, Narodnih Heroja 2, tel. 61 47 08, 4Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00 Post office B-3, Vojvođanska 5, tel. 46 71 01, 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Post office C-2, Trg Marije Trandafil 10, tel. 42 30 85, 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Dial-up connection Internet access that does not requre any sign-up or adjusting the settings, charged through your monthly telephone invoice, tel. 042 21 01 10. Username and password: Any. WiFi Hotspots Express Mail DHL C-2, Apolo Centre, Trg Slobode 3, tel. 661 48 92. 4Open 08:00 - 16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Post Express, tel. (011)360 76 07. Operating in the territory of Srbija. 4Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun. Dunavski Park C-2 Ritmo Latino C-2, Sremska 9, tel. 52 80 95 Route 66 B-3, Bulevar Despota Stefana 5, tel. 635 07 90 Making a phonecall To call a local number within Novi Sad, dial the number directly, and to make a call to another area, dial the relevant area code first. To call abroad, dial the international access code (99), followed by the country code, the area code and the phone number. When you are making a call to a mobile, first dial the prefix of the mobile phone. To call a land line from a mobile, you need to dial the area code before the phone number (the area code for Novi Sad is 021). You can make a telephone call from Halo telephone booths. You will need a Halo telephone card (for local and international calls) or Halo Plus telephone card (for international calls only) available at kiosks and post offices for 300 and 600 dinars respectively. A call to the UK or the USA with one Halo card will last about 8.5 and 4.5 minutes respectively. A Halo Plus card allows longer calls: 40 minuta with the UK or 30 minutes with the USA. When buying Halo Plus card you must choose between three types of the card: for overseas calls, for calls to European countries, and for calls to the countries of the former Yugoslavia. Important phone numbers Police: 92 Fire Department: 93 Ambulance: 94 Road assistance: 987 Phone numbers information: 988 Mobile phones There are three mobile operators in Serbia: MTS (064, 065), Telenor, (062, 063) and VIP Mobile (060, 061). Pre-paid packages and recharge cards for all three networks are available at their retail shops, kiosks and supermarkets, and in case of MTS network in post offices as well. MTS C-2, Modene 3, tel. 42 11 03, www.mts.telekom. yu. 4Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. July - September 2008 getting around Taxis Avoid taxi drivers that do not belong to any taxi company (their taxi roof signs display only ‘taxi’ without stating a company name), who usually hang around the Railway station and accost travellers. They will overcharge you either by negotiating an exorbitant fare or using a fast meter. Inside the taxi, the price list and ID card of the driver must be in clear view. Your fare is shown on the meter. Taxi fare in Novi Sad is quite easy on the pocket: there is a start-up fee of 25-35 dinars and the rate per kilometre is 40 dinars. There is a luggage charge of 10 dinars per piece. You can ask the taxi driver about the hotels, restaurants, or indeed anything you would like to know about the city or local politics. Most taxi drivers are smokers, but you can request a non-smoking vehicle or simply ask the driver to extinguish the cigarette. 41 Train Schedule From Novi Sad Dep. Arr. 08:05 10:00+2 23:00 12:25 23:21 08:57 City MOSCOW PRAGUE VIENNA To Novi Sad Dep. Arr. 21:30 19:24+2 05:00 19:18 09:52 19:24 Schedule is subject to change. Novi Sad In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. can buy on board, from the driver, on entering the bus. The price of the fare is 30 dinars. Trains Trusted taxi companies Lux taxi, tel. 30 00 00 Novus taxi, tel. 50 07 00 Pan taxi, tel 45 55 55 Car parks The central part of the town is divided into two parking zones: red and blue. You can pay for parking either by filling out a parking coupon or sending an SMS message. The parking is limited to two hours in the red zone (that means that you first pay for the initial hour and on its expiry, pay again), whilst in the blue zone there are no parking limits (you extend the parking on the hour). If you use the parking coupon, you should scratch the relevant fields for the year, month, day, hour and minute of the beginning of parking session and display the coupon on the inside of the windscreen. For SMS: send an SMS message with the number of the licence plates (no space, capital letters) to 8211 for the red zone and 8212 for the blue zone. The price of one hour of parking is 20 dinars. Parking at the Štrand beach can also be paid by SMS sent to number 8213. Railway Station B-2, Bulevar Jaše Tomića 6, tel. 44 32 00. Serbian railways are in poor repair, as a result of a long-lasting economic crisis. Railway carriages are very old and the train speed does not exceed 80km/h. Delays and inexplicable stoppage occur with maddening regularity, so if you want to travel round the country in relative speed and comfort, go for long distance buses. Those who love trains should not miss a ride on Šargan Eight (a narrow gauge heritage railway offering one of the most picturesque routes in the world). Tickets for regular local and international lines are available at Railway Station. Buses Bus services account for the bulk of domestic passenger traffic in Serbia. There are buses for big towns running at frequent intervals throughout the day. Novi Sad has two bus stations for international travel. Where you will end up depends on your bus operator. The Central Bus Station Sad is well linked to all parts of the town through the public transport network. Central Bus Station B-2, Bulevar Jaše Tomića 6, tel. 44 40 21 ATP Vojvodina Bus Station A -1 , Novosadskog partizanskog odreda 1a, tel. 488 97 77. Car rental Public transport Public transport in Novi Sad is fairly quick and reliable. It is comprised only of buses, whose schedule depends on the line, but most buses run at 10 to 15 minute intervals from 04:30 do 24:00. There are only single-ride tickets, which you Autotehna B-3, Balzakova 29, tel. 47 45 16, www. autotehna.com. 4Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun Hertz B-2, Jevrejska 23 (passage), tel. 52 97 19, www. hertz.co.yu. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00 International Bus Schedule From Novi Sad Days Dep. - - 3 - - 612:00 - - 3 - - -12:30 - - - - - - 7 14:30 - - - - -619:30 1234567 12:30 1234567 12:30 1 - - -5-7 09:30 13:00 1234567 12:30 - - - - - - 7 09:15 - - 3 - - -13:15 1234567 12:15 1234567 12:30 1234567 09:30 1234567 11:00 -2 - - -619:15 Arr. 18:55 11:45 10:00 18:45 16:00 10:15 22:15 15:00 04:00 01:30 05:30 20:30 07:00 15:30 17:30 10:00 Destination AMSTERDAM BERLIN BERLIN BERLIN DORTMUND FRANKFURT GÖTEBORG GÖTEBORG MUNCHEN PRAGUE PRAGUE SARAJEVO STUTGART ZAGREB ZAGREB ZURICH To Novi Sad Days - - 3 - - 6-2 - - - - - - - - 5 - - - - - - -61234567 1234567 - - - - 5-7 - - - - 5-1234567 1 - - - - - - - - -5-1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 -2 - - -6Dep. 07:30 10:00 10:00 10:00 06:00 12:45 00:00 22:00 19:30 18:00 18:00 13:30 16:00 08:00 09:00 16:00 Arr. 10:00 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 10:30 12:40 22:00 10:30 09:45 09:45 21:30 10:30 14:00 15:20 14:15 Schedule is subject to change. Novi Sad In Your Pocket cannot be held responsible for any changes to the times shown here. July - September 2008 liFestyle direCtory Health Clinics & Hospitals Ambulace B-2. tel. 94 Clinical Centre of Vojvodina BBB, Hajduk Veljka 1, tel. 484 34 84. Emergency Centre (on duty 24hrs). Private practices Pekić C-2, Grčkoškolska 3, tel. 52 52 61. 4 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. NS Lab C-2, Svetozara Miletića 24, tel. 52 00 92. 4 Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Closed Sun. Dentists Oral B Čukić B-3, Narodnog fronta 20, tel. 46 70 06. 4 Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Pharmacies (on duty 24 hours) Viva B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 105, tel. 662 23 34. 43 Proverbum B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11/IV, tel. 472 52 27, www.proverbum.com. Udruženje naučnih i stručnih prevodilaca Vojvodine C-3, Resavska 3, tel. 635 06 64 Translators Spa & Beauty Salons Dermomedica C-2, Dunavska 28, tel. 45 66 13. Fit-vibe, LPG, Hair & Skin IPL. Regina B-2, Gogoljeva 13, tel. 54 25 92. Beauty parlour, solarium, body treatments. Fitness Clubs Banks Banca Intesa C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 4 Erste Bank B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 5, tel. 0800 201 201 Komercijalna Bank B-2, Kralja Petra I 11, tel. 52 12 86 Meridian Bank- Credit Agricole Group B-2, Braće Ribnikar 4-6, tel. 487 68 76 Metals Bank C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 25, tel. 557347 NLB Continental Bank C-2, Trg Mladenaca 1-3, tel. 661 55 00 OTP Bank C-2, Grčkoškolska 2, tel. 42 61 93 Piraeus Bank C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 3, tel. 42 01 08 Raiffeisen Bank B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 56a, tel. 488 01 44 Vojvođanska Bank C-2, Trg slobode 5-7, tel. 488 66 00 Flex C-2, Sutjeska 2 (SPENS), tel. 488 22 43. Body building and Fitness Center. Gymnas Hotel B-3, Teodora Pavlovica 28, tel. 46 92 85. Exercise Gym, Sauna, Massage Service. Mean Machine Fitness Center B-2, Omladinskog pokreta 7-9, tel. 50 41 84. Ladies only. Key cuts Tresor A-3, Stevana hladnog bb. If you lock yourself out late at night call tel. (063)68 05 65. Business connections Privredna komora Vojvodine B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. 480 37 03 Poslovni centar NIS B-3, Narodnog fronta 12, tel. 481 20 33 Business facilities Kongresni centar Master B-2, Hajduk Veljkova 11, tel. 483 07 77, www.kongresnicentar.sajam.net Sportsko-poslovni centar Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 23 20, www.spens.co.yu Lawyers Law Office Stanivuković C-2, Pavla Simića 2, tel. 472 04 12, www.lawoffice.co.yu Office furniture Astra, Đakona Avakuma 33, tel. 641 15 14, www. astrans.net Ivex B-3, Cara Dušana 26, tel. 46 90 25, www.ivexns. co.yu July - September 2008 liFestyle direCtory Shopping centres Apolo Centre C-2, Trg slobode 3, tel. 52 38 88. 4Open 06:00-22:00, Closed Sun. Bazar C-2, Bulevar Mihaila Pupina 1, tel. 52 39 87. 4Open 09:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-18:00. Mercator B-2, Bulevar oslobođenja 102, tel. 636 76 45. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Pariski magazin C-2, Kralja Aleksandra 12. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina C-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 22 22. 4Open 06:30 - 22:00. 45 www.inyourpocket.com IPS Megastore C-2, Zmaj Jovina 15, tel. 661 41 31. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. IPS Bazar Store C-2, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina 1, tel. 423810. 4Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Bookshops Dry cleaners Elegant B-3, Lasla Gala 9, tel. 661 51 15. 4Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Pop’s B -2, Mercator Shopping Centre, Bulevar oslobođenja 102, tel. 636 76 45. 4Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. Gifts & Souvenirs Launderettes Libraries Una A-1, Rumenačka 39, 51 05 40. 4Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. NS Škrinja C-2, Dunavska 17 (Passage), (063)41 21 69. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Prestige C-2, Zmaj Jovina 2, tel. 57 11 31. Open XX-XX Tradicija B-2, Jevrejska 23 (Passage Papilon), tel. (063)36 40 02. Orthodox Icons. 4Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 14:00, Closed Sun. Markets City Library C-2, Dunavska 1, tel. 45 12 33. 4Open 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Matica Srpska Library C-2, Matice srpske 1, tel. 42 01 99. 4Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:30, Closed Sun. Futoška pijaca B-2, Jevrejska 42, tel. 661 67 42. 4Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. Riblja pijaca C-2, Trg Republike 18, tel. 52 49 27, 4Open 06:00 - 17:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. Money transfer Sports Archery NS 2002 D-2, Petrovaradin Fortress, Hornwerk 22, tel. (063)26 60 02 Swiming Pools SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina B-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 488 22 95. Indoor swiming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 230 dinars, children 170 dinars. Sports Centre Sajmište, tel. 661 58 16. 4Outdoor swiming pool. 4Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 180 dinars, children 120 dinars. Tennis SPENS - Sports and Business Centre of Vojvodina B-2, Sutjeska 2, tel. 52 13 32. 1 hour 300-600 dinars. Western Union, tel. (011)330 03 00. Money transfers from abroad can be collected from most banks in Novi Sad, in EUR only. Opticians Look & Look B-3, Bulevar Cara Lazara 92, tel. 54 46 44. 4Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed Sun Photo service Shoe repair Canon M B-2, Bulevar Oslobođenja 4b, tel. 477 00 00 Krle B-2, Bulevar Kralja Petra I 26, tel. 633 04 22. 4Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun July - September 2008 1 2 3 Novi Sad 48 Serbia Novi Sad In Your Pocket index Absolut ACenter Birotel Aleksandar Apolo Centre Aqua Doria Arena Arhiv Astal šaren ATP Vojvodina Bus Station Babareeba Balkan ekspres Baltazar Bazar Bela lađa Bonaca Apartments Bookstore-caffe Nublu Braća Drinić Epicentar Brankovo kolo Car Royal Apartments The Cathedra Central Bus Station Chicken Tikka City Library City Museum of Novi Sad Clinical Centre of Vojvodina Cuba-Libre Čerčil The Danube Park Downtown Duga Dva anđela Dva štapića Dvorište Fićkić Filip Fish&zeleniš Fontana Foxtrot Frida Fruška Gora mountain Futoška pijaca Garden Giardino Greenet Greenich Gusan Gymnaz Hedonist Ile de France Jadran Jatak Jelisavetin bastion Karađorđe Stadium KCNS Kongresni centar Master Kuća mala Kućerak kod česme Lazin hostel Leopold I Lipa London club Mačak Martha's Pub Mediteraneo Mercator Museum of Vojvodina Muzej Novi Sad Ognjište Orgideja Osam tamburaša Panorama Pariski magazin Park Parobrod 31 25 24 45 30 19 27 29 41 27 29 32 45 26 25 31 24 26 25 36 41 27 45 36 43 31 27 36 26 24 28 27 32 31 25 30 26 32 31 37 45 28 32 31 28 29 25 31 25 19 27 32 19 19 43 28 30 26 24 29 32 28 32 25 45 36 32 24 29 27 29 24 45 24 30 Pasha Petrovaradin Fortress Pipping Plava frajla Pomodoro rosso Poslovni centar NIS Privredna komora Vojvodine Pulitzer Railway Station Riblja pijaca Rimski Ritmo Latino Route 66 RST Club Saborna Church Sajam Salaš 137 Sečuan Serbian National Theatre Ski bar Skipper Sports Centre Sajmište Sportsko-poslovni centar Vojvodine Sterija St. Nicholas Church Surabaya Synagogue Štrand beach Tamara Tourist Information Centre Trčika Ujvideki Szinhaz Vesela kornjača Vigor Vila Una Vojvodina Voyager Vremeplov Wheels Youth Theatre Zenit 28 35 32 30 29 43 43 28 41 45 24 33 33 33 36 24 21 27 19 30 33 45 43 33 36 27 35 18 26 6 31 19 19 25 26 24 26 31 33 19 25 Fruškogorska Futoška Futoški put Gimnazijska Gornji put Gundulićeva Hadži Ruvimova Hajduk Veljkova Heroja Pinkija Heroja Tepića Ignjata Pavlasa Ilije Ognjanovića Ive Andrića Jevrejska Jovana Popovića Jovana Subotića Kamenički put Karađorđeva Kej Skojevaca Kej Žrtava Racije Kisačka Kočićeva Kornelija Stankovića Koste Nađa Kralja Aleksandra Krušedolska Lasla Gala Laze Telečkog Milutina Bojića Majevička Maksima Gorkog Marina Držića Marka Oreškovića Marka Miljanova Matice Srpske Mažuranićeva Miroslava Antića Miše Dimitrijevića Narodnih heroja Narodnog fronta Nikole Tesle Novosadskog sajma Njegoševa Okrugićeva Omladinskog pokreta Palmotićeva Pančevačka C-3 B-2 A-3 C-2 C-3 C-1 A-2 B-2 A-3 B-2 C-2 C-2 B-3 B-2 A-3 C-2 C-3 B-1 C-2 C-2 B-1 D-3 A-2 D-2 C-2 D-3 B-3 C-2 C-2 B-2 C-2 D-3 D-3 C-2 C-2 D-3 C-2 B-3 C-2 B-3 B-2 B-2 C-2 D-3 B-2 D-2 A-1 4 Street register Alekse Šantića Arčibalda Rajsa Avijatičarska Balkanska Beogradska Beogradski kej Božidara Adžije Braće Popović Bulevar Cara Lazara Bulevar Despota Stefana Bulevar Kralja Petra I Bulevar Jaše Tomića Bulevar Jovana Dučića Bulevar Mihajla Pupina Bulevar Oslobođenja Bulevar Revolucije Bulevar Slobodana Jovanovića Bulevar Vojvode Stepe Cara Dušana Čajkovskog Ćirila i Metodija Danila Kiša Donji put Dr. Đ. Jovanovića Dr. Sime Miloševića Dunavska Dunavske Divizije Đorđa Rajkovića Feješ Klare B-3 D-2 A-1 C-1 C-2 C-2 D-3 B-2 B-3 B-3 B-2 B-2 A-2 C-2 B-2 B-2 A-2 A-2 B-3 D-2 A-3 B-3 C-3 C-2 C-3 C-2 D-2 C-1 A-3 Partizanska Patrijarha Čarnojevića Patrijarha Rajačića Petefi Šandora Petra Kočića Preradovićeva Put Novosadskog partizanskog odreda Put Šajkaškog odreda Puškinova Račkog Rade Končara Radnička Ravanička Rumenačka Save Kovačevića Sentandrejski put Sime Matavulja Skerlićeva S. Mitrova Ljubiše Somborska Stanoja Glavaša Stevana Musića Stražilovska Subotička Sunčani kej Sutjeska Svetozara Miletića Štrosmajerova Šumadijska Temerinska Tolstojeva Uspenska Vase Stajića Venizolosovska Vladana Desnice Vojvode Bojovića Vojvođanska Vojvođanskih brigada Vukovarska Zmaj Jovina Zmaj Ognjena Vuka B-1 C-1 D-2 A-3 C-2 D-2 A-1 C-1 B-3 D-3 D-2 C-2 C-3 A-1 B-2 B-1 B-3 C-2 B-2 A-3 A-3 C-2 C-2 A-3 C-3 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-2 C-1 B-3 C-2 C-2 C-1 D-2 B-2 B-3 C-2 D-3 C-2 B-2 July - September 2008 CAFFE BAR Laze Telečkog 13 Tel. 065 270 76 86 Work time 09:00 AM - 12:00 PM Friday and Saturday till 02:00 AM www.cubalibre.co.yu CAFFE & SNACK BAR Maksima Gorkog 44 Tel. 021 661 68 78 Work time 08:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday and Saturday till 01:00 AM RESTAURANT Vase Stajića 27 Tel. 021 472 16 08 Work time 08:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday and Saturday till 01:00 AM Stevana Musića 15 Tel. 021 635 07 42 Work time 09:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday and Saturday till 01:00 AM RESTAURANT CAFFE BAR & NIGHT CLUB ON PETROVARADIN FORTRESS Petrovaradin fortess, Hornwerk 22, Tel. 064 640 79 76 Friday and Saturday 09:00 PM - 05:00 AM, Open from April till September www.bastion.co.yu