One of Gliwice's best venues, Pub Gramofon follows the Krakowian model of hip hangouts with eclectic antique furnishings, candlelight, classic wallpaper and newspaper clippings all over the walls. Add to that a large menu of local food and two bars over two levels, the upstairs of which is smaller and darker with a stage for the concerts or jazzy jam sessions. As you might expect, the bohemians have come to roost beneath the battered lampshades and strange chandeliers in such numbers that finding a table might prove impossible. With so much atmosphere in one place, you kind of wish Gramofon would spread the love around the region a bit.