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John Paul II

John Paul II
Poland was plunged into national mourning when Pope John Paul II passed away on April 2, 2005. In Kraków, Wawel Cathedral's Sigismund Bell sounded for the first time since 1979 and bars and clubs across the country closed their doors. Tributes from leaders poured in from across the globe and flags up and down the country were draped with black ribbons.

Early Years

Born Karol Wojtyła in 1920, he would go on to become the youngest pope of the century, as well as the third longest serving pontiff in history. His hands on approach to his work saw him effectively circle the world 27 times; his influence was often cited as one of the key reasons behind the fall of communism. Born in the town of Wadowice, he was the second of two sons born to Emilia Kaczorowska, a school teacher, and Karol Wojtyła, an administrative officer in the Polish army. He was left without immediate family at the age of 21. His mother died in 1929 when he was nine. His elder brother, an established doctor, died three years later after contracting an illness from one of his patients. And, shortly after moving to Kraków and enrolling in university, his father died leaving him with only distant relatives on his mother's side.

In Kraków

In 1938 he graduated from Marcin Wadowita High School in Wadowice and enrolled in the Jagiellonian University in Kraków to study Polish language and literature and drama. As an 18-year-old-student, he took spartan quarters at ul. Tyniecka 10 (H-4), just across from the Grunwaldzki Bridge. A plaque honours his darting presence in the basement room of the house. In those days he was known as quite a sports fanatic: an avid swimmer, skier and an adept goalkeeper. In September 1939 Poland fell to Nazi Germany, and the young Wojtyła spent his days breaking rocks at the Zakrzówek quarry (later at the Solvay chemical factory), his nights studying theology - and in defying Nazi edict by performing in an underground theatre. In 1942 he began his clandestine seminary studies run by Cardinal Adam Stefan Sapieha, the archbishop of Kraków. After the war he resumed his studies until his ordination as a priest on November 1, 1946. The first non-Italian pontiff in more than 400 years heard mass every morning at the Church of St. Stanisław Kostka (ul. Konfederacka 6 (A-7)). He would preach his second mass there on November 3, 1946 - the day before he delivered his first in the Crypt of St. Leonard, underneath Wawel Cathedral. Shortly after, Wojtyła travelled to Rome to complete his doctorate in theology, where he also ministered to Polish immigrants and refugees. Appointed as Kraków’s bishop in 1958 he resided for the next five years at ul. Kanonicza 19 (C-5), now the Archdiocesan Museum. His final Kraków home (1963-1978) was the Bishop’s Palace, adjacent to the Basilica of St. Francis on ul. Franciszkańska 3 (B/C-4). He became a cardinal in 1967 and, in what was seen as a shock appointment, was elected the 263rd pope in October 1978.

Communism

Wojtyła’s nomination to archbishop in 1958 was originally supported by the communist party, who clearly saw him as an amiable character, however it was not long before he became a thorn in the side of the establishment. While never directly appealing for rebellion, his congregation recognized the dual meaning in expressions like ‘Christ’s truth’ and ‘freedom under God’. In 1979, a year after assuming the papacy and the name of John Paul II, he returned to Poland in what is commonly regarded as the pivotal point in the downfall of the communist system. He preached 32 sermons across Poland in 9 days, and created what has been called in some circles ‘a psychological earthquake’. His brief return offered hope and unity to the Poles, and lit the flame that later exploded into the Solidarność revolution. An assassination attempt in 1981 (now rumored to be the work of a KGB/Stasi plot) did little to shake his faith, and he later visited and forgave his Turkish assailant. His final visit to Kraków in 2002 will live long in the memory of many locals. His sermon drew a staggering crowd of 2.5 million people to Błonie meadow (G-3), and the field became a natural magnet to many local catholics following his death, with close to a million people gathering to watch his funeral relayed on giant screens. Upon his passing, John Paul II left a lasting legacy, not least in his work to combat world poverty, his fierce criticism of armed conflict and his commitment to bringing the church back to the masses.

Wadowice

The town of his birth, Wadowice, is 40km from Kraków, and an easy day trip from Kraków’s PKS bus station – look for mini-buses with a Wadowice sign in the window. Pope fans will have two points of interest. His birthplace and former home has been opened as a museum, and features childhood photographs and a variety of personal effects. Find it on ul. Kościelna 7 (Open 09:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Admission free - donations welcomed). During his visit in 1999 he took a walk down memory lane and reminisced where he once used to buy his cream cakes. He would have had no idea the impact that this comment would make on the town’s cake production. Today you’ll see signs for cream cakes (kremówka) plastered on every window, though only one place was singled out as his favourite; Cukiernia Beskidzka on ul. Jagiellońska 23.

The Papal Visit

Pope Benedict XVI’s visit to Poland in May 2006 was deemed an overall success, though try telling that to the visiting stag parties who arrived in Kraków to find an alcohol prohibition across the city. Over 900,000 people gathered on Kraków’s Błonie Meadow to hear mass, though the undoubted headline of his trip was the visit of the German born pontiff to Auschwitz death camp. Organized on his personal request, the Pope entered alone on foot through the infamous gates, before being shown ‘the death wall’ and talking with survivors. While touring the execution block he stopped to pray in cell 18; the cell which once held Maximillian Kolbe – the Polish priest who sacrificed his life for that of another man. After visiting the prayer centre, Pope Benedict was then taken to Auschwitz II – Birkenau. It was here that he spoke the only German of his visit. Having previously only spoken in Polish and Italian, Pope Benedict made a short prayer for peace in his native tongue before once again turning to Italian to give a powerful speech on the legacy of the crimes committed here.

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