Hidden away inside a small courtyard and down a little flight of steps, o'joj is overflowing with art, junk, students, an upright piano, the soothing songs of Marilyn Monroe and a choice of herb teas and beer. Beautifully bizarre, the fact that it's overseen by a couple in their 50s makes o'joj seem like an unlikely place to find students skipping class, but there you have it.