The undisputed highlight of Bydgoszcz has to be the ‘Wyspa Młynska’, an inner city oasis hemmed in by canals and scattered with former mill buildings. For years these had been allowed to fall into ruin, however, thanks to EU funding and the dogged efforts of the local council, a bold plan to resurrect the area as a cultural showpiece are nearing fruition. Forming the jewel of this crown is the Museum of Modern Art, freshly opened and now home to one of the most important collections of Polish modern art in the world. Advancing up a glass-wrapped stairwell visits start off with the temporary exhibit on the first floor, before getting progressively weirder the higher you climb. All the greats of contemporary Polish art are here, from Witkiewicz to Kantor, from Hasior to Nowosielski, and this place is nothing less than an absolute must – even for the traditionalists. Among the installations to be admired/mocked are ‘robofruit’, a typewriter with scythe-like blades sticking out of it, and a ghastly baby doll covered in red hair. Thought provoking certainly, and a commendable way to spend an hour of your time.